Cam, thanks for doing this video, I had seen you other one about finishing and I'm glad you updated. I have a walnut desk, and a sycamore slab dining table I'm working on, and almost ready for finish, I just ordered the nano kit. I can't wait to try this! Thanks again, Greg
I just did N3 on my first epoxy table about a month ago. I live in Fl and my garage was probably around 80. I tried to followed the last video instructions but quickly realized it was setting much faster than 60 seconds and adjusted. Table turned out great and I am already itching to do another. I’m thinking my current dinning room table is not cutting it these days …. 🤔
Glad you updated this process, Cam. I applied N3 to the bottom of my table in my 85-degree F garage last week. The dragging at a 45 step seemed unnecessary and I got some streaks by waiting 60 seconds between applying, 45 deg drag, and buffing. It's not terrible though, and it's on the bottom of the table, so I can live with it. I planned on reducing those wait times before doing the top tonight - this video confirms it!
@@scottboyle7547 yes N3 will cure a lot faster in higher temps so doing smaller sections at a time and waiting less time before buffing it off will help.
Just ordered to Scotland to test on the knives I make. I think it could work great however I haven’t seen anything about other use cases. I mainly use non stabilised wood (mostly walnut and elm burl) so I have experimented a lot with other hard finishes like ca glue (works well) and a different 2 part hard finish (was crap). Fingers crossed third times the charm
Thanks for the video. Wry helpful. Only problem I have is my shop is in my garage and here in Texas right now it is 95 degrees hot. And even with a small a/c it is hot out here. Dry time is 3 seconds. 😅
Thanks for the video Cam. I'm thinking of using the product in and around saltwater. So outdoors UV rays, salt air and of course getting splashed with the water. It wouldn't be out there 24/7, but it would get exposure. Maybe try some experiments with that?
once cured is this product food safe ? I'm planning to use it in the future on a Wooden kitchen counter and dining table and having a 4 year old food safety is kind off important :)
It says to remove finger oil and so forth as the initial cleaning step. Is it fine to apply N3 to oiled wood if the wood has had plenty of time to cure?
I bought the n3 kit, loved the results on the first walnut table I used it on. Can you use it to cost your table saw surface (as opposed to paste wax)? I saw another guy use Chemical Guys WAC22916 HydroSlick Intense Gloss Sio2 Ceramic Coating Hyperwax to coat his table saw surface and he said he loves it...made me look over at the N3 bottles and start pondering...
I put one coat of each hard and top, I like it alot. - It brought out the sheen a lot. Can I do a second coat and reapply? Would I be putting both of them or just reapply the top coat only?
Hi Cam - I have N3 ready to apply on Rubio finished walnut slab. Would LIKE to keep the sheen down to matt to satin. How many coats of the hard coat and how many of the top coat do you suggest to maintain Satin finishing or lower. thanks!!!
How would you recommend applying and buffing off on a live edge with insect channels? We don’t want to sand them off our bar top, we think they’re cool.
In other videos on blacktail studio you mentioned to finish the bottom first, then immediately flip the table over and finish the top, to avoid warping or cupping. Is N3 applied only to the top?
I like Andrew's question but I'm not sure your response is very clear because you referred him to the new application video but you don't really answer the question directly. Should you apply N3 to the bottom and top to avoid cupping?@@N3Nano
Can it be spot repaired, or would it need to be taken back and refinished with both base and top coat? Or a light scuff with a grey pad and just top coated?
Cam, really excited to use n3 for the first time. I got the kit without the prep spray, any recommendations on cleaning/prep that can be used before application?
Hi thanks for the detailed finishing guide. two questions: is the hard coat applied to raw sanded wood? and 2) is the nano hard coat and top coat finish appropriate for kitchen countertop applications Oh a third question what sanding grit do you work to before applying the N3 hard coat
I'm wondering about shelf life and storage conditions. I think this would be great for particularly intricate chef knife handles, fancy tool handles, burl bowls, etc. Projects where I'd want to showcase the grain, but not cover in poly. I assume this will take a while to use up covering small pieces. How many months/years can I expect a bottle of n3 to keep on a shelf? Thoughts on storage conditions and temperatures of unused product?
Good day. I purchased a kit! I do a lot of epoxy tables with flood coats as my tables have many stones in them. They need to be super clear. I like the idea of this product for the protection but I am wondering if this will make them cloudy at all? I am hoping it will make them even clearer as it may fill micro scratches. Your thoughts would be much appreciated.
Hi Cam, Amateur woodworker here, I am building an epoxy table with teredo wood and finished it with 3 coats of Rubio so far - due to a small void that I noticed after 2 coats of Rubio, I tried to spot fix before a third coat and now have a slight inconsistency in sheen in that area. Have you seen the N3 help hide some finish imperfections like this or is would you think imperfections in the finish could compromise the N3 finish. Tried Googling but not a lot of luck here so any feedback you may have helps!
I'm a bit confused... why do you use a black light on some videos for this and not others? Or am I seeing you just use a handheld shop light to look for shiny spots? Thanks so much!!
Hello Cam, Thanks for this video. I am making a dining table for the first time and got n3 finish. Is a new applicator pad needed when applying each layer of the hard coat? Ex: 3 pads for 3 coats How long should I wait in between the coats? I’ll definitely be singing up for the finishing course!
We definitely recommend using a new applicator pad for each coat, but we have just released a new applicator system: n3nano.com/products/applicator-blocks
I may have missed it, but I have not seen a video of you applying the N3 over one of your epoxy tables, particularly over black epoxy. Is this something you recommend?
Hi John. Absolutely it can go over epoxy. Recently we built several denim and epoxy tables that were all finished with N3. We also built a burnt wood and epoxy waterfall desk that had N3 added at the end as well. The most recent video of us adding N3 to walnut and black epoxy would probably be this round table build. ruclips.net/video/iN3nUIdxWlc/видео.htmlsi=81DvX6OrB_Eki2H4&t=1613
What is the difference in the N3 and automotive ceramic coating. Im wanting to make a table for my works break room but im also on a budget since im just getting back into woodworking. Thanks in advance
What surfaces other than wood will N3 work on? I have a poured epoxy resin table (no surface wood) that is very slightly tacky (the resin will lightly bond to plastic and other resin objects placed on it and they have to be pulled a little to come up, but it doesn’t seem to damage the table at all). I’m hoping that topping it with N3 will give it a smooth nicer-feeling finish
So with the application pad that when putting on the coats, do you change that out each time or did you end up using the same applicator pad for the 3 times you did the hardcoat for the 3 sections? I know when you buffed out each of the 3 sections you used a new part of the microfiber cloth. But I was not sure about the applicator pad if I need to use a new one for each section I do or you can use the same one for a certain amount of time or application.
Similar to Donnie’s question do you apply more of the hard coat/top coat to the pad for each section or is there enough on the pad to do the whole table top?
I'm curious if any guitar luthiers have ever reviewed this or given feedback on usage of this on an acoustic guitar. I've got a couple small acoustic guitars I'm interested in trying to preserve as long as possible and this seems like a good way to do it. Guitars are always gonna get scratched from picking and they're always going to be exposed to sweat/light moisture, so I'm interested in seeing some testing with that kind of mindset if possible. The bassist for Metallica used to test the durability of his basses by dunking them in bathtubs full of salt water, so maybe salt water (but not an entire bathtub! LOL) would be a good sweat simulation. And any kind of id card or credit card could be used to simulate guitar pick scratching. Thanks a bunch!
Great idea! I know that we have had a few guitar makers use N3 Nano Finishing with great success - here a clip: ruclips.net/video/gOwvnQl2yM4/видео.html
Dude …there are some cool fillers and techniques to colour and grain match your surface…..Im surprised that you chose such a yellow looking wood filler and would be interested to know why you chose the colour? Otherwise love your Chanel and great teaching🌈
I’m pretty sure he wanted to do a gold epoxy for those holes. If you see the finished desk, it has gold accents like outlets and holes for wires that are gold plated.
How long until after I apply the top coat am I am able to start putting stuff on the desktops that were just coated with N3? I was going to wait the 7 days but was not sure if that was really the case and I could install them on my desk frame and then start to set the computer desk up. It has been 48 hours since I applied the top coat.
If it's been 48 hours you're ok to start using it lightly. It can be touched, you can set stuff on it, it'll be fine. We recommend waiting 7 days so it can fully cure before any exposure to liquids though.
Hi, after the application of this Nano N3, is is still safe to eat from this desk? Is it still "food safe" like we say in germany. I got a dining table and want to apply it on. There are several hazzards pointed out in the data sheets.
@@michaelgorges2638 There is a lot of confusion about “food safe finishes”. Not sure what the German standards are but for the U.S. for a finish to be FDA “food safe” you need to be able to literally eat the finish with no harmful effects. Which is obviously not the case for nearly every finish/coating on the market. N3 nano is however food contact safe. So you can comfortably use it on wood countertops, kitchen tables, or anywhere else incidental contact with food might happen. N3 (and most other coatings/finishes) should not be applied to surfaces like cutting boards though.
Great question - we recommend changing the cloth after each application, as when N3 dries it becomes hardened, so to not risk scratching during the application
@@marclowenstein6484 For different sections of the table you'll be ok using the same cloth for the entire coat. But between coats enough time will have passed that you'll need to replace the applicator pad.
In another video he says to finish it with Rubio or whatever your poison is wait a week or so and then apply the n3 nano hard coat wait 30-60 mins than do another hard coat if you like. Wait for 24hours than do the top coat.
Please, start cooperation with a European distributor or make the option of shipping to Europe lasting even more than 2 months but significantly cheaper than now
For something to test, what about sandpaper or files mostly sitting on the table or lightly scraped? What about a heavy, really annoying printer that the feet fell off years ago? So basically a heavy thing that's on a few points of plastic contact. What else.... The standard morning coffee stain that you don't notice until after your morning 2 hour meeting? I think those would be kinda out there. If you could tolerate the smell, it might be interesting for extreme cases like food rotting away for a year on it while outside... I think I watch too much Aurikatarina
Thanks for doing the video, so much better than the instructions that come in the box
Cam, thanks for doing this video, I had seen you other one about finishing and I'm glad you updated. I have a walnut desk, and a sycamore slab dining table I'm working on, and almost ready for finish, I just ordered the nano kit. I can't wait to try this! Thanks again, Greg
Sycamore is an awesome wood for furniture. Don't see it used too much unfortunately.
I just did N3 on my first epoxy table about a month ago. I live in Fl and my garage was probably around 80. I tried to followed the last video instructions but quickly realized it was setting much faster than 60 seconds and adjusted. Table turned out great and I am already itching to do another. I’m thinking my current dinning room table is not cutting it these days …. 🤔
Love that! And glad we got these instructions dialed in for you guys that get to live where the weather is nice.
Can you clarify what you mean by "pad"? Do you mean do not reuse both cloth and block or just the cloth?
Glad you updated this process, Cam. I applied N3 to the bottom of my table in my 85-degree F garage last week. The dragging at a 45 step seemed unnecessary and I got some streaks by waiting 60 seconds between applying, 45 deg drag, and buffing. It's not terrible though, and it's on the bottom of the table, so I can live with it. I planned on reducing those wait times before doing the top tonight - this video confirms it!
@@scottboyle7547 yes N3 will cure a lot faster in higher temps so doing smaller sections at a time and waiting less time before buffing it off will help.
Just ordered to Scotland to test on the knives I make. I think it could work great however I haven’t seen anything about other use cases. I mainly use non stabilised wood (mostly walnut and elm burl) so I have experimented a lot with other hard finishes like ca glue (works well) and a different 2 part hard finish (was crap). Fingers crossed third times the charm
Trying the same thing… were you happy with the results?
Thanks for the video. Wry helpful. Only problem I have is my shop is in my garage and here in Texas right now it is 95 degrees hot. And even with a small a/c it is hot out here. Dry time is 3 seconds. 😅
Does it change anything other than just having to buff it off faster?
Thanks for the video Cam. I'm thinking of using the product in and around saltwater. So outdoors UV rays, salt air and of course getting splashed with the water. It wouldn't be out there 24/7, but it would get exposure. Maybe try some experiments with that?
Great video! Will this product work on furniture purchased from a furniture store?
Yes. N3 Nano can add sheen and protection to any piece of wood furniture.
once cured is this product food safe ? I'm planning to use it in the future on a Wooden kitchen counter and dining table and having a 4 year old food safety is kind off important :)
It says to remove finger oil and so forth as the initial cleaning step. Is it fine to apply N3 to oiled wood if the wood has had plenty of time to cure?
Yup! Just don’t want fresh oil
I bought the n3 kit, loved the results on the first walnut table I used it on. Can you use it to cost your table saw surface (as opposed to paste wax)? I saw another guy use Chemical Guys WAC22916 HydroSlick Intense Gloss Sio2 Ceramic Coating Hyperwax to coat his table saw surface and he said he loves it...made me look over at the N3 bottles and start pondering...
Are you saying don't reuse the rag on the pad which is what Im thinking or the pad and rag it self
I put one coat of each hard and top, I like it alot. - It brought out the sheen a lot. Can I do a second coat and reapply? Would I be putting both of them or just reapply the top coat only?
Hi Cam - I have N3 ready to apply on Rubio finished walnut slab. Would LIKE to keep the sheen down to matt to satin. How many coats of the hard coat and how many of the top coat do you suggest to maintain Satin finishing or lower. thanks!!!
How would you recommend applying and buffing off on a live edge with insect channels? We don’t want to sand them off our bar top, we think they’re cool.
In other videos on blacktail studio you mentioned to finish the bottom first, then immediately flip the table over and finish the top, to avoid warping or cupping. Is N3 applied only to the top?
Hey Andrew - here is the application video for your reference: ruclips.net/video/NwsVNGu9Ouc/видео.html
I like Andrew's question but I'm not sure your response is very clear because you referred him to the new application video but you don't really answer the question directly. Should you apply N3 to the bottom and top to avoid cupping?@@N3Nano
Can it be spot repaired, or would it need to be taken back and refinished with both base and top coat?
Or a light scuff with a grey pad and just top coated?
Cam, really excited to use n3 for the first time. I got the kit without the prep spray, any recommendations on cleaning/prep that can be used before application?
Watched the last application video and saw you using alcohol and water combo. So gonna do that!
Hi thanks for the detailed finishing guide. two questions: is the hard coat applied to raw sanded wood? and 2) is the nano hard coat and top coat finish appropriate for kitchen countertop applications Oh a third question what sanding grit do you work to before applying the N3 hard coat
always apply to a fully cured finish. never on bare wood. this is a protective coating, not a finish
I'm wondering about shelf life and storage conditions. I think this would be great for particularly intricate chef knife handles, fancy tool handles, burl bowls, etc. Projects where I'd want to showcase the grain, but not cover in poly. I assume this will take a while to use up covering small pieces. How many months/years can I expect a bottle of n3 to keep on a shelf? Thoughts on storage conditions and temperatures of unused product?
Unopened it’ll last for many years. We say one year once it’s open. But we expect it to last probably 2-3 years once opened.
Good day. I purchased a kit! I do a lot of epoxy tables with flood coats as my tables have many stones in them. They need to be super clear. I like the idea of this product for the protection but I am wondering if this will make them cloudy at all? I am hoping it will make them even clearer as it may fill micro scratches. Your thoughts would be much appreciated.
We haven't had any issues with making furniture cloudy. We've applied N3 Nano to clear epoxy and glass and they have stayed perfectly clear.
will mineral spirits work as a cleaner?
Hi Cam,
Amateur woodworker here, I am building an epoxy table with teredo wood and finished it with 3 coats of Rubio so far - due to a small void that I noticed after 2 coats of Rubio, I tried to spot fix before a third coat and now have a slight inconsistency in sheen in that area. Have you seen the N3 help hide some finish imperfections like this or is would you think imperfections in the finish could compromise the N3 finish. Tried Googling but not a lot of luck here so any feedback you may have helps!
If you reach out to support here: n3nano.com/ we'll be able to help with this!
I'm a bit confused... why do you use a black light on some videos for this and not others? Or am I seeing you just use a handheld shop light to look for shiny spots? Thanks so much!!
The black light is used to cure a special finish not the n3. I believe it's a linseed oil based finish with some magic that cures under UV light.
Hello Cam,
Thanks for this video. I am making a dining table for the first time and got n3 finish. Is a new applicator pad needed when applying each layer of the hard coat? Ex: 3 pads for 3 coats
How long should I wait in between the coats?
I’ll definitely be singing up for the finishing course!
We definitely recommend using a new applicator pad for each coat, but we have just released a new applicator system: n3nano.com/products/applicator-blocks
@@N3Nano Oh good. You answered my only question after your video. Thanks!
I may have missed it, but I have not seen a video of you applying the N3 over one of your epoxy tables, particularly over black epoxy. Is this something you recommend?
Hi John. Absolutely it can go over epoxy. Recently we built several denim and epoxy tables that were all finished with N3. We also built a burnt wood and epoxy waterfall desk that had N3 added at the end as well. The most recent video of us adding N3 to walnut and black epoxy would probably be this round table build. ruclips.net/video/iN3nUIdxWlc/видео.htmlsi=81DvX6OrB_Eki2H4&t=1613
Is this ok to do over nitrocellulose lacquer?
What is the difference in the N3 and automotive ceramic coating. Im wanting to make a table for my works break room but im also on a budget since im just getting back into woodworking. Thanks in advance
Automotive has a lower concentration of the ceramic contents.
Is the N3 food safe on charcuterie boards?
What surfaces other than wood will N3 work on? I have a poured epoxy resin table (no surface wood) that is very slightly tacky (the resin will lightly bond to plastic and other resin objects placed on it and they have to be pulled a little to come up, but it doesn’t seem to damage the table at all). I’m hoping that topping it with N3 will give it a smooth nicer-feeling finish
It’ll work on most surfaces. I’ve tested it on Plastic, metal, paint, epoxy, wood and more.
So with the application pad that when putting on the coats, do you change that out each time or did you end up using the same applicator pad for the 3 times you did the hardcoat for the 3 sections? I know when you buffed out each of the 3 sections you used a new part of the microfiber cloth. But I was not sure about the applicator pad if I need to use a new one for each section I do or you can use the same one for a certain amount of time or application.
The applicator pad will be good between different sections while you're applying a single coat, but after each FULL coat, you should use a new pad.
Similar to Donnie’s question do you apply more of the hard coat/top coat to the pad for each section or is there enough on the pad to do the whole table top?
I'm curious if any guitar luthiers have ever reviewed this or given feedback on usage of this on an acoustic guitar. I've got a couple small acoustic guitars I'm interested in trying to preserve as long as possible and this seems like a good way to do it.
Guitars are always gonna get scratched from picking and they're always going to be exposed to sweat/light moisture, so I'm interested in seeing some testing with that kind of mindset if possible. The bassist for Metallica used to test the durability of his basses by dunking them in bathtubs full of salt water, so maybe salt water (but not an entire bathtub! LOL) would be a good sweat simulation. And any kind of id card or credit card could be used to simulate guitar pick scratching.
Thanks a bunch!
Great idea! I know that we have had a few guitar makers use N3 Nano Finishing with great success - here a clip:
ruclips.net/video/gOwvnQl2yM4/видео.html
Dude …there are some cool fillers and techniques to colour and grain match your surface…..Im surprised that you chose such a yellow looking wood filler and would be interested to know why you chose the colour? Otherwise love your Chanel and great teaching🌈
I’m pretty sure he wanted to do a gold epoxy for those holes. If you see the finished desk, it has gold accents like outlets and holes for wires that are gold plated.
Hey Cam! I have a question, the 75 sqft coverage of the kit of n3 nano, consider the two layer of application?
Yup, that’s for two coats of each
How long until after I apply the top coat am I am able to start putting stuff on the desktops that were just coated with N3? I was going to wait the 7 days but was not sure if that was really the case and I could install them on my desk frame and then start to set the computer desk up. It has been 48 hours since I applied the top coat.
If it's been 48 hours you're ok to start using it lightly. It can be touched, you can set stuff on it, it'll be fine. We recommend waiting 7 days so it can fully cure before any exposure to liquids though.
Hi, after the application of this Nano N3, is is still safe to eat from this desk? Is it still "food safe" like we say in germany. I got a dining table and want to apply it on. There are several hazzards pointed out in the data sheets.
@@michaelgorges2638 There is a lot of confusion about “food safe finishes”. Not sure what the German standards are but for the U.S. for a finish to be FDA “food safe” you need to be able to literally eat the finish with no harmful effects. Which is obviously not the case for nearly every finish/coating on the market. N3 nano is however food contact safe. So you can comfortably use it on wood countertops, kitchen tables, or anywhere else incidental contact with food might happen. N3 (and most other coatings/finishes) should not be applied to surfaces like cutting boards though.
OK very thanks for that detailed answer.
FYI you have to wait 30 mins. between hard coat coats. (It's explained in the original application video, just not this one).
11:00. Says about an hour
@@AdisonCooper yes we recommend waiting an hour between coats and 24 hours between the last hard coat and the first coat of the top coat.
Time in between base coats and top coats?
24 hours 👊👊
can this be applied over a ca glue finish that has been polished?
Yup!
Are you changing the applicator cloth with each section?
Great question - we recommend changing the cloth after each application, as when N3 dries it becomes hardened, so to not risk scratching during the application
.@@N3Nano
@@N3Nano so that means changing cloths for each third fo the table for each coat? [Just about to get started with this!]
@@marclowenstein6484 For different sections of the table you'll be ok using the same cloth for the entire coat. But between coats enough time will have passed that you'll need to replace the applicator pad.
@@N3Nanohow long do you wait after applying Rubio before doing the N3 application??
Can this be used on raw wood or does it need some other finish first?
In another video he says to finish it with Rubio or whatever your poison is wait a week or so and then apply the n3 nano hard coat wait 30-60 mins than do another hard coat if you like. Wait for 24hours than do the top coat.
It does need a finish applied first. It’s not designed to be used alone on bare wood
Can this be used on exterior doors?
Absolutely - man of our clients have used it to great success on their exterior doors!
Can this go on teak or danish oil?
Yup!
Please, start cooperation with a European distributor or make the option of shipping to Europe lasting even more than 2 months but significantly cheaper than now
Hey you didn't mention how long you should wait between top coat application
Shipping is $100 to New Zealand…😅
For something to test, what about sandpaper or files mostly sitting on the table or lightly scraped? What about a heavy, really annoying printer that the feet fell off years ago? So basically a heavy thing that's on a few points of plastic contact. What else.... The standard morning coffee stain that you don't notice until after your morning 2 hour meeting? I think those would be kinda out there. If you could tolerate the smell, it might be interesting for extreme cases like food rotting away for a year on it while outside... I think I watch too much Aurikatarina
I’m sure sandpaper would scratch it. But the extended coffee test is a great one.
Can you get away with just using the hard coat? This sht is expensive.
It is possible, but if you want perfection take the whole process 👍🏽
Hi Cam, I just finished my dining table with n3, but there is a light haze on the finish now,what am I doing wrong?
2 coats each