I watched the repair video and found it very helpful. I have one question. If I only want to replace the ON/OFF transmission solenoid valve, is it necessary to remove the transmission valve body to do so?
That is almost the symptom of my car especially when I start it in the morning but after few seconds it goes. It was struggling to move - replacing the solenoids fixed it - pro tip, you can replace the solenoid without removing the valve body. Simply loosen the bolts to have enough clearance to pull it out. Good luck!
I have one, great car, but it's also a constant headache of engine leaks, gearbox is the only solid part, especially the getrag 6 speed, but this car is hard work to maintain.
true - I had to replace the power steering tube and coolant reservoir. After that I dont have anymore leak. R53 is at least 15yrs old, hence wear and tear but this cars is really fun to drive
@@ronaldpumHello sir.. my sisters mini cooper S r53 when transmission at running temp does not change gears and starts to play up.. gear only works on a 1st starts in the morning after about 30mins driving won’t change gear.. any idea? cheers
What a fantastic helpful video! How do you tell whether your having a solenoid failure versus a worn clutch plate/disk? One of my minis slips when I accelerate hard from a stop light, but If I drive manually with paddle shifters all works well. On my other Mini, in auto mode, when soft driving the trans can quickly slip and revs up to super high RPMs. If I drive manual mode with paddles, all works good through 3rd gear, but the problem starts when shifting to 4th gear. If I do it quick it slips, but if I pause and wait a few seconds to let the trans catch up and complete shift, then gear engages and can continue. Although if I put down a hard foot, it can start slipping again. Do these problems sound like Solenoids or worn clutch disks?
Thanks for the DIY much appreaciated. I'm chasing a problem im hoping you can give me some advice. Its an 05 MCS automatic, for the most part the car drives totally fine, after about 30 mins of driving it shifts harder when slowing down mostly into 2nd. On a couple of occasions it has shuddered when coming to a stop like it hasnt shifted down? kinda like it doesnt know your stopping. If I shift it to neutral the revs are fine but back to D and it shudders and will eventually stall because it wants to move but having my foot on the brake makes it stall. I did a flush and fluid ,filter change which helped for maybe a month to 6 weeks before the clunkiness started again after 30 mins of driving. Never a problem till it gets hot. No codes or check engine lights. I'm thinking its the valve body/solenoids? Im contemplating either a later model second hand box as I think they had the better solenoids, a new complete valve body from BMW or doing your DIY with just the solenoids. Any advice appreaciated
My R53 is a 2006 model and I have fixed a 2007 Cabrio as well. I won't recommend purchasing a used Solenoid. Get a new one, either on Aliexpress or Amazon. The auto trans issue won't show any codes. I have fixed mine almost 4 years ago now and never had any issue since. Pro tip is you can loosen the bolts of the valve body - you don't have to remove it completely, then replace the solenoids when you have enough clearance. Do one at a time as the cable arrangement is very important.
Great video. I bought a 2006 cooper s John works, with 80000 miles last week. It shifts rough when it shifts back, when I'm almost at a traffic light, or end of a street. Haven't checked the oil level and filter yet, but could those solenoids be worn out at only 80000 miles?
Solenoids starts to fail at 50000 miles. I fixed another red mini with the same issue. This transmission is the same with volkswagen and audi. Transmission Oil should be changed every 25K miles (based on audi & VW). However, BMW decided to put a lifetime sticker. Hence, most cars like this have the same issues.
Is it necessary to check the oil temperature and overfill? Can't you just add the same amount of oil that was drained off in the first place? Thank you.
I did it last week following your video, really good step by step, unfortunately, doesn't work in my car, now is worst, before shifting just second gear now all of them, when I drive on the freeway get stuck in 6 gear, I have to turn off the car and back to normal but shifting and smashing all the speeds, some advice? I put 5 quarters ATF, I was thinking to add 1 more? best regards
Hi, no that won't be an oil issue. You have a faulty solenoids. I have experienced something similar when I fixed a red mini cooper S. I had to use some of the old ones as some solenoids that I received were faulty.
this is a good website as a guide of which solenoid is responsible for certain gears - maktrans.net/zaptchasti-akpp/audi-vw/awtf-60sn-09g-09k-09m-/valvebody-sol-sensors-09G/solenoid-k2-brown-09g_awtf-60sn-03-up-
I have a 06 Coop S Checkmate with 140k, car has been sitting since 2019 when it gave me a hard shift into 3rd and then would get stuck on 3rd gear unless i turned off car and turn back on. Once I got to 3rd gear, the car would not up/downshift to its proper gear unless like said before, i shut ot off an turn on again. Do you think doing what you did could help or possibly solve my issue? My car has the Aisin 6sp Auto Trans
The way mine feels is it revs high on a shift and them slams into the gear at too high torque. Does this sound similar? Was there a specific code the car will throw?
yup - I had the same problem, it was so annoying to drive. no error message. The other R52 that I fixed also had the same problem. I have a video of it on my channel.
I know this was posted a while ago but just wondered if you could offer some advice. I have a 2004 R50 (Mk 1), so the valve body is different as far as I can tell from looking online, stepper motor not multiple solenoids(?). The car will sometimes not engage from a standing start then lurch on higher revs - after that it drives fine. I was going to replace the valve body with one from Ebay or Amazon - does that sound right to you? Cheers
I had exact same issue and that is what I forgot to add in this video. When I start the car, it struggles to accellerate from the garage and the rpm is already high. After that it works fine but will play up again once the tranny oil temp gets warmed. Cooper S? The non cooper is CVT as far as I know.
@@ronaldpum Thanks for getting back to me! This is a Mini One not Cooper, it is CVT but the Mk 1 is different as far as I can tell. Valve body is much simpler and has no solenoids just a stepper motor (I could be wrong!)
Hi I have a 2006 cooper s with the Aisin 6spd trans. My car will drive good then after 3rd gear it will only upshift but not downshift back to 2nd or 1st unless I shut the car off and turn it on again. I also get the incorrect gear ratio and EMF lights on. Could this be my issue? I’ve been going around this thought for months now since the aftermarket solenoids are $500 from a reputable mini parts dealer and would be a hard pull to swallow if it doesn’t fix the issue and the trans itself, I can’t seem to find one… all are either CVT or manual here. Pls help
I would bet my money that this is solenoid. After doing this multiple times, pro tip is to just loosen the bolts of the valve body. No need to completely remove it. Then change the solenoids once you have enough clearance.
so maybe you or someone can answer my question since all familiar or have similar issue...I would appreciate any feed back please. I have a R52 2006 Cooper S convertible with 136k miles. replaced valve body right when IO bought it 10/2016. never changed transmission fluid since. Lately while driving it all in a sudden I get EP code and it get stuck on 3rd gear. sometimes I shut it off and back on and its back to normal even the EP code stays one, so erase the code and the car drives great for weeks, then the problem occurs again, do the same routine and fixes it. comes back again. I get codes P0700 and P0961 on the scanner. some says might be the TCM or the transmission fluid. I also heard that I might need to replace the transmission. I love the car but can take it on long trips for the fear of it get stuck on 3rd gear...that would be a problem if I was 2-3 hors away from home. Here is my dilemma...I welcome any feedback please. Thank you
that would be a solenoid n90 and n92. I suggest replacing the rest. It is likely that the valve body you received have used solenoids. Read this site, it tells you which solenoid is responsible for certain gears. You can also replace solenoids without removing valve body. maktrans.net/solenoid-k3-black-09g_awtf-60sn-03-up-
Hello. I have a 2005 Minicooper R53, automatic transmission. When I turn on the air conditioning, the automatic transmission goes crazy and then turns off the engine (in motion). I turn off the engine, wait a while and continue normally with the air conditioning off. Have you ever heard of a similar case? Any idea what it could be? Note: with the air conditioning off, the automatic transmission works normally. Thanks.
Hi mate - aircon and transmission should not be related. My guess is that on a cold weather, you dont need the AC, with my mini it can take up to 30-minutes before it starts playing up. On a hot weather, it can only take 15-minutes.
Just did mine and am experiencing some major slipping in second gear over 50% throttle, and lazy shifts between all other gears. I did not reset adaptations, could this be my problem?
Could also just be adjusting the relief dials opposite the solenoids, there's a diagram I have for the r56, turning the dial 1 13/4 counter clockwise is all I did, it was flaring 3 to 4 but after making that simple adjusting on the body it started shifting smoothly, only spent money on the oil pumping back in, doesn't hurt to try the simple stuff first
This had me like “heck yeah imma do this” and then 10:30 came and this dude has a special program ro check trans oil temp and reset adaptations WTH!!!!! Totally bummed me out man, not everyone has those expensive @$$ programs to finish the job.
hi mate - you can download ista-D from BMW forums,. Then you can buy a usb KD-CAN cable which is just $30 rather than an iCOm cable which is what I have. That will allow you to use the software. Hope it helps. cheers (if your in Australia, I have spare computers that has this program pre-configured).
this is what you need - www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002618955010.html (the blue colour with switch) the switch alows you to toggle from 2007 up or 2006 below. another way is to just rent an OBD tool or some mobile mechanic should be able to offer this service.
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I watched the repair video and found it very helpful. I have one question. If I only want to replace the ON/OFF transmission solenoid valve, is it necessary to remove the transmission valve body to do so?
Just the video I was looking for, I am looking at an R53 with an automatic transmission that will not shift out of 1st gear.
That is almost the symptom of my car especially when I start it in the morning but after few seconds it goes. It was struggling to move - replacing the solenoids fixed it - pro tip, you can replace the solenoid without removing the valve body. Simply loosen the bolts to have enough clearance to pull it out. Good luck!
Damm saved my self alot of time , great video RON.
I have one, great car, but it's also a constant headache of engine leaks, gearbox is the only solid part, especially the getrag 6 speed, but this car is hard work to maintain.
true - I had to replace the power steering tube and coolant reservoir. After that I dont have anymore leak. R53 is at least 15yrs old, hence wear and tear but this cars is really fun to drive
great video congratulations..after replacing the solenoids it is necessary to reprogram
Not really but it is better to reset the adaptations.
@@ronaldpumHello sir.. my sisters mini cooper S r53 when transmission at running temp does not change gears and starts to play up.. gear only works on a 1st starts in the morning after about 30mins driving won’t change gear.. any idea? cheers
@@ClarkNicolas-mz5uz that is exactly what I have in my car, fixed by replacing the solenoids
Best DIY EVER!!! Keep up the good work!
What a fantastic helpful video! How do you tell whether your having a solenoid failure versus a worn clutch plate/disk? One of my minis slips when I accelerate hard from a stop light, but If I drive manually with paddle shifters all works well. On my other Mini, in auto mode, when soft driving the trans can quickly slip and revs up to super high RPMs. If I drive manual mode with paddles, all works good through 3rd gear, but the problem starts when shifting to 4th gear. If I do it quick it slips, but if I pause and wait a few seconds to let the trans catch up and complete shift, then gear engages and can continue. Although if I put down a hard foot, it can start slipping again. Do these problems sound like Solenoids or worn clutch disks?
What did you find out. Having pretty much the same symptoms.
Having the same issues, anything?
Torque spring
I followed this all step by step and its great but you skipped how you got the shift linkage out of the way. Thank you
Thanks for the DIY much appreaciated.
I'm chasing a problem im hoping you can give me some advice. Its an 05 MCS automatic, for the most part the car drives totally fine, after about 30 mins of driving it shifts harder when slowing down mostly into 2nd. On a couple of occasions it has shuddered when coming to a stop like it hasnt shifted down? kinda like it doesnt know your stopping. If I shift it to neutral the revs are fine but back to D and it shudders and will eventually stall because it wants to move but having my foot on the brake makes it stall.
I did a flush and fluid ,filter change which helped for maybe a month to 6 weeks before the clunkiness started again after 30 mins of driving. Never a problem till it gets hot.
No codes or check engine lights. I'm thinking its the valve body/solenoids? Im contemplating either a later model second hand box as I think they had the better solenoids, a new complete valve body from BMW or doing your DIY with just the solenoids.
Any advice appreaciated
My R53 is a 2006 model and I have fixed a 2007 Cabrio as well. I won't recommend purchasing a used Solenoid. Get a new one, either on Aliexpress or Amazon. The auto trans issue won't show any codes. I have fixed mine almost 4 years ago now and never had any issue since. Pro tip is you can loosen the bolts of the valve body - you don't have to remove it completely, then replace the solenoids when you have enough clearance. Do one at a time as the cable arrangement is very important.
Great video. I bought a 2006 cooper s John works, with 80000 miles last week. It shifts rough when it shifts back, when I'm almost at a traffic light, or end of a street. Haven't checked the oil level and filter yet, but could those solenoids be worn out at only 80000 miles?
Solenoids starts to fail at 50000 miles. I fixed another red mini with the same issue. This transmission is the same with volkswagen and audi. Transmission Oil should be changed every 25K miles (based on audi & VW).
However, BMW decided to put a lifetime sticker. Hence, most cars like this have the same issues.
Is it necessary to check the oil temperature and overfill? Can't you just add the same amount of oil that was drained off in the first place? Thank you.
I did it last week following your video, really good step by step, unfortunately, doesn't work in my car, now is worst, before shifting just second gear now all of them, when I drive on the freeway get stuck in 6 gear, I have to turn off the car and back to normal but shifting and smashing all the speeds, some advice? I put 5 quarters ATF, I was thinking to add 1 more? best regards
Hi, no that won't be an oil issue. You have a faulty solenoids. I have experienced something similar when I fixed a red mini cooper S. I had to use some of the old ones as some solenoids that I received were faulty.
this is a good website as a guide of which solenoid is responsible for certain gears - maktrans.net/zaptchasti-akpp/audi-vw/awtf-60sn-09g-09k-09m-/valvebody-sol-sensors-09G/solenoid-k2-brown-09g_awtf-60sn-03-up-
I have a 06 Coop S Checkmate with 140k, car has been sitting since 2019 when it gave me a hard shift into 3rd and then would get stuck on 3rd gear unless i turned off car and turn back on. Once I got to 3rd gear, the car would not up/downshift to its proper gear unless like said before, i shut ot off an turn on again. Do you think doing what you did could help or possibly solve my issue?
My car has the Aisin 6sp Auto Trans
If when the transmission is cold you got no problem then yes it will fix it. Just did it to mine the car was sitting for 2 years
The way mine feels is it revs high on a shift and them slams into the gear at too high torque. Does this sound similar? Was there a specific code the car will throw?
yup - I had the same problem, it was so annoying to drive. no error message. The other R52 that I fixed also had the same problem. I have a video of it on my channel.
Thanks for the great video! Can you tell us what year the R53 is, and at how many miles the issue began?
Mine is a 2006, issue started at 95K, also did the same job on a 2005 with 90K on the clock. 🙂
I know this was posted a while ago but just wondered if you could offer some advice. I have a 2004 R50 (Mk 1), so the valve body is different as far as I can tell from looking online, stepper motor not multiple solenoids(?). The car will sometimes not engage from a standing start then lurch on higher revs - after that it drives fine. I was going to replace the valve body with one from Ebay or Amazon - does that sound right to you? Cheers
I had exact same issue and that is what I forgot to add in this video.
When I start the car, it struggles to accellerate from the garage and the rpm is already high. After that it works fine but will play up again once the tranny oil temp gets warmed.
Cooper S? The non cooper is CVT as far as I know.
@@ronaldpum Thanks for getting back to me! This is a Mini One not Cooper, it is CVT but the Mk 1 is different as far as I can tell. Valve body is much simpler and has no solenoids just a stepper motor (I could be wrong!)
Same issue do you think will work on 2005? 175345 miles??
Question. Do you let excess oil out with the car running?, or once it reaches temperature shut if off and remove the oil plug?. Thank you
using ista+ and a kdcan cable, monitor the temp until the trans oil reach 40 degrees. remove the plug and let excess oil goes out. cheers
@@ronaldpum thank you for the response. But, do you let the excess out with the engine running?
@@arielpena2038 you can turn it off when it reach temp. Buy a kdcan cable with switch, this will allow you to use it for ista+
Hi I have a 2006 cooper s with the Aisin 6spd trans. My car will drive good then after 3rd gear it will only upshift but not downshift back to 2nd or 1st unless I shut the car off and turn it on again. I also get the incorrect gear ratio and EMF lights on. Could this be my issue? I’ve been going around this thought for months now since the aftermarket solenoids are $500 from a reputable mini parts dealer and would be a hard pull to swallow if it doesn’t fix the issue and the trans itself, I can’t seem to find one… all are either CVT or manual here. Pls help
I would bet my money that this is solenoid. After doing this multiple times, pro tip is to just loosen the bolts of the valve body. No need to completely remove it. Then change the solenoids once you have enough clearance.
Thank you so much !!! Will do it to mine
Can you give me references of the solenoids ?
simply search for tf60 solenoid in amazon ebay or aliexpress. 👍
so maybe you or someone can answer my question since all familiar or have similar issue...I would appreciate any feed back please.
I have a R52 2006 Cooper S convertible with 136k miles. replaced valve body right when IO bought it 10/2016. never changed transmission fluid since. Lately while driving it all in a sudden I get EP code and it get stuck on 3rd gear. sometimes I shut it off and back on and its back to normal even the EP code stays one, so erase the code and the car drives great for weeks, then the problem occurs again, do the same routine and fixes it. comes back again. I get codes P0700 and P0961 on the scanner. some says might be the TCM or the transmission fluid. I also heard that I might need to replace the transmission. I love the car but can take it on long trips for the fear of it get stuck on 3rd gear...that would be a problem if I was 2-3 hors away from home. Here is my dilemma...I welcome any feedback please. Thank you
that would be a solenoid n90 and n92. I suggest replacing the rest. It is likely that the valve body you received have used solenoids.
Read this site, it tells you which solenoid is responsible for certain gears.
You can also replace solenoids without removing valve body.
maktrans.net/solenoid-k3-black-09g_awtf-60sn-03-up-
R52 video
ruclips.net/video/BAzQCbCZt1E/видео.html
HI, Can you tell me the torque for the transmission pan please ?
Hi godzix, torque is 9Nm
Hello. I have a 2005 Minicooper R53, automatic transmission. When I turn on the air conditioning, the automatic transmission goes crazy and then turns off the engine (in motion). I turn off the engine, wait a while and continue normally with the air conditioning off. Have you ever heard of a similar case? Any idea what it could be? Note: with the air conditioning off, the automatic transmission works normally. Thanks.
Hi mate - aircon and transmission should not be related. My guess is that on a cold weather, you dont need the AC, with my mini it can take up to 30-minutes before it starts playing up. On a hot weather, it can only take 15-minutes.
i have a 2005 R53, it always shifts hard from 1 to 2, goin up or down, hot or cold, could this be solenoids or something worse?
Yup, I had the same problem - really embarassing and annoying to drive. Fixed by replacing all solenoids.
How do I go about resetting the adaptation if I don't have the program like you have?
what I did before is I went to a local auto supply store - they offer obd services. I paid $15 to reset the adaptation on my civic.
Just did mine and am experiencing some major slipping in second gear over 50% throttle, and lazy shifts between all other gears. I did not reset adaptations, could this be my problem?
Sounds like it is still a faulty solenoids.
Could also just be adjusting the relief dials opposite the solenoids, there's a diagram I have for the r56, turning the dial 1 13/4 counter clockwise is all I did, it was flaring 3 to 4 but after making that simple adjusting on the body it started shifting smoothly, only spent money on the oil pumping back in, doesn't hurt to try the simple stuff first
It's for the r56 but I'm sure the other models have the same layout, look it up
What was the problem with this mini is it a automatic gearbox an was it changing gears it self
automatic - hardshifting when warm and struggle to move on coldstart
Did this solve the problem? My 2006 MINI Cooper S is experiencing the same thing.
Yes - it's drives like new again. Never had the problem again for more than 6 months now.
Thanks!
This had me like “heck yeah imma do this” and then 10:30 came and this dude has a special program ro check trans oil temp and reset adaptations WTH!!!!! Totally bummed me out man, not everyone has those expensive @$$ programs to finish the job.
hi mate - you can download ista-D from BMW forums,. Then you can buy a usb KD-CAN cable which is just $30 rather than an iCOm cable which is what I have. That will allow you to use the software. Hope it helps. cheers (if your in Australia, I have spare computers that has this program pre-configured).
this is what you need - www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002618955010.html (the blue colour with switch) the switch alows you to toggle from 2007 up or 2006 below. another way is to just rent an OBD tool or some mobile mechanic should be able to offer this service.