Good evening. Very neat to see people make these home cockpits. I painted these panels for a company that supplied parts to Boeing. A couple tips: Rotate the part 90 degrees every coat of paint for even coverage. When you have enough paint to block light, let the part fully cure, then lightly(!) sand the face with 600 grit sand paper. Then, apply a dust coat of paint over it (lower flow of spray gun) and spray from a distance. We do this to eliminate the sand marks and to allow the particles of paint to partially dry mid air, giving you a nice, very fine textured, yet very smooth finish. Finally, apply a matte/flat clear coat. This will not only eliminate all sheen to the panel, but give it that beautiful avionics panel finish. Not sure what paint you use, but we use a polyurthane enamel, but at about $600 a gallon, I'm quite positive it is out of your budget. Instead, I recommend going to your auto paint supply store and purchasing a small pint of urethane paint in whatever color you'd like. They're only about $15 here in the US and one pint will last you countless panels. Not only will the paint spray a lot better, you end up with a rock hard finish that will last many, many years. If you can afford it, I recommend using an HVLP gun (cheap ones work just fine). God bless.
I am starting my project cockpit of a 737 and I will watch all your videos very very close. Thank you for share all this information and experiences with all of us, Cheers!
Guten aben Mickey, Its great to see your still making these videos. I am particularly impressed with your attitude to set-backs. When things don't work out right your not afraid to show it and then you just find another way which helps us from making the same mistakes. Thank you very much.
Thank you. I'm not showing you every mistake I made, but when there is a chance that I can give some useful hints and there is enough time to film this then I will show it to you.
Building a home cockpit now, but these panels have me the most anxious in how to accomplish. Im a general contractor, with engineering background, so can build things, but know nothing about how to go about accomplishing this type of detailed cut and etching.
It would be nice to have a follow up video for this panel. I don’t recall you ever doing the assembly build and the programming for it in Mobiflight because this was a long time before you changed over to that software from just prosim and your own Arduino code
Sorry guys, I had to upload this video again because of a big encoding error at the end of the video. Thanks for all of your comments under the first video.
Hi Michael Why don't you paint the white acrylic panel, engrave and cut afterwards ? - By doing so, you spend less time to calibrate and, for not-painted borders, you spray them by protecting your engravings. Thanks in advance for your answer ! KickO
It is very time consuming to prepare and clean the painting pistol. With my methode I only have to paint once. And the alignment process is way faster than the cleaning process. And I think you would always see the transission between the two painting layers.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Thanks for your answer, Michael. In fact, I use ready-to-use painting sprays as you have all RAL colors on the web and you do not need to prepare/wash them. They are not so ecological, I agree. For the transition, you have a good point: I do not know, I will have to try.
What program are you using that automatically finds the X Y and Z axis? I am using candle and I don't see any buttons like that to find your X Y and Z axis. That would be such an awesome add-on to the software program because I am also trying to etch and then cut out panels for my 737 simulator. Or maybe do you know if there is an add-on to find the X Y and Z axis in the candle software program that I am not aware of. Thanks for the great video and hopefully you can help me out.
Hi Michael, I did’t get a close look to the engraving bit you are using, can you please tell me which one it is and where you got it? It looks somehow different from the bits that I have been using. Thanks in advance! Best regards, Jaap
You can find a description about the tools and setting on my website mickeys-flightdeck.de/2019/01/13/cutting-engraving-efis-panels/ and in my live stream of 28.09.2019. There is a table of content in the vdeo description so you can navigate to the corresponding time index.
Hi Michael, Excellent explanation and video. I have made an edgefinder tool for our cnc, but can only probe X, Y & Z. Which Gcode sender are you using for the orientation part? Could you share the G-code for your edgefinder?
Michael, can you tell me where you buy your acrylic for your panels. Just moved to Germany, and either my search skills don't translate, or cast acrylic is VERY expensive. Thanks!
The material you have to search for is Plexiglas. I bought it at a local manufacturer who works with this material. I ordered a full sheet. So the price is a bit lower and I saved the shipping costs. Smaller sheets like DIN A4 can be ordered at ebay. I can also imagine that the prices are higher these days.
Hello! Nice work! Im tryig to make my own backlit panels for the DCS Viggen but im strggeling a little bit with what programs to use for controling the CNC. Its my first project with the machine so any tips would be most appreciated =)
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck I have now gotten the machine under control thanks to you! But the acryllic sheet i use just melts and clumps together, giving me a very rough edge. Do you use some special kind of plastic? It seems like you are using 10 mm/s speed and 4mm depth per pass. It feels like my machine is goig to vibrate to pieces if i try that speed. Should i just go for it anyway or do you have some tips on how to find the limit without breaking the machine? Thanks for your answer =) /Pelle
@@pellejonsson4413 The melting of the acrylic is always a sign of too much heat. I think you know this already. This comes from too much rpm of your spindle or too many blades on your tool. My spindle rotates with only 5000 rpm. Not many spindles can rotate so slow. And in addition I'm using a single blade tool. And I have cut only 0.4 mm per pass.
With a router you can come out with a defined and flat bottom of the engraving. The ground of a laser engraving is a little bit rough. Engraving with a router means cutting. A laser burns, and so can the edges look like. But when you carefully adjust all the parameters, you will come out with an excellent result. Especially when it comes to fine details.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Thanks for the quick response. I am not sure if I can fit a CO2 in my setup. And I heard that Diode lasers cannot cut Acrylic? Or to be more precise only black one or green one i think? So I wonder if instead I go directly for a CNC only to cut and engrave panels. What do you think is the benefit of using the laser?
For me the biggest advantages are the speed and the lack of vibration. The laser is way more faster and a simple magnet is enough to secure the parts. But it also needs a lot of extra equipment like a compressor, a dust exhaust and a filtering system. So when there is only limited space, go with a CNC. And it can also cut thicker pieces of wood, I'd needed.
Hello there, what machine is this that you're using to engrave/cut? How can I find a simillar one that possibly isn't as pricy because I'm on a tight budget.
This is my homebuilt wooden cnc router. You won't find anything cheaper in that size and strength. I have made a five video series about the construction process. Other builders use also the cheap 3018 China cnc. Might work for engraving small pieces.
I haven't searched ever after this. So I don't know. I have seen a documentation several years ago about two guys who have build an UPS 727. Maybe you can find this again with a lot of searching.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck search results give plane and cabin dimensions, nothing in reference to the cockpit. several have made 727 sims but I haven't got any replies from them. the search continues ha..
Hello, I have a question about plastic milling, I bought a 3018 pro milling machine and I know it is not a serious machine but I think it is enough to pre mill these panels. I would like to know which tool you use and which spindle speed and feed rate data
Carving builds the with of the letters by vary the engraving depth. For a panel I want to come out with a constant engraving depth. Otherwise your letters would become darker at the edges. My engraving speed is 600mm/s and the depth is 0.2mm. These days I'm routing out the letters with a 36° bit with a tip of 0.3mm.
Hello Michael, i engraved my panel, i have used the same metod that you, But i see the letters "dark" without retroiluminated. I think it can only be used with light. why does this happen?? low uality plexiglass?? excelent your work!!
With my material I will have to use a little bit of backlighting always to let all letters appear clear. I think you will fly most of the times with backlighting anyway. If you want the letters to be visible better without backlighting, you will have to use a whiter acrylic. Maybe not as translucent as mine. But I think you will have to use more light if it should be backlighted. You have to try.
Hello Michael. Incredible job,Im impressed. I have a question. I made my own cnc router but I was wondering wich type of router bit are you using for cutting the acrylic? and how many mm/min and rpm are you using? Hope you can aswer my question. Thanks very much. Nice day!!
A smaller tool can be turned faster than a bigger tool because the turning speed on the outsides would be higher with a bigger tool. In my case I’m using a single flute 4mm bit with 5000 rpm for cutting and a 30° engraving tool with 12000 rpm. My cutting speed is from 480 - 720 mm/min. Cheap acrylic tends to melt faster and stuck your tool.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Ok, thanks very much Michael!! That are the same router bits I am using, I think will need more practice for making better. Have a nice day!
@@gertlungmaskin1210 There are some basic colors but it has to be a painted white acrylic. And when you then cut it, you will come out with white edges where the light will shine through.
It is an homemade piece of aluminum. I routed an angle into it so I can align its outer edges parallel to the edges of my workpiece. If you google for "Touchplate CNC" you will find many pictures how to make such a plate on your CNC. You just must have the possipility to cut aluminum on your cnc.
Nice video! I'm convinced to start building my own CNC now. What degree and diameter v-bits have you had success with for engraving, 01, 0.2, 0.3? 45 degree? Thanks
I measured the different buttons and came out with a little heigt variance because of the paint and the glue. And to engrave all the letters with the same depth I had to zero each button seperatly.
Moin Michael, zunächst vielen Dank für Deine vielen hilfreichen und inspirierenden Videos. Ich habe eine Frage (eigentlich sind es mehrere Fragen): die 30 % Lichtdurchlässigkeit sind noch aktuell? Oder bist Du mittlerweile auf anderes Glas ausgewichen? Gilt das wahrscheinlich so auch bei Gravur mit einem Laser, oder? Und hast Du zufällig einen Händler im Internet den Du empfehlen kannst? Viele Grüße aus Hamburg Christian
Ich bin inzwischen auf das 3% lichtdurchlässige Plexiglas umgeschwenkt, da es in unbeleuchtetem Zustand besser lesbar ist (WN297). Das kann sowohl auf dem Laser als auch auf der Fräse bearbeitet werden. Ich hole das immer als ganze Platte bei einem Händler vor Ort, die ich mir nur zum Transport in drei Streifen schneiden lasse. Kleinere spezielle Stücke Plexiglas habe ich bisher immer bei Ebay gesucht.
Hello there, could you please tell which software do you really use for the cuttings and engraving, and what are the settings for cutting or engraving with cnc using Acrylic board. I can not find the proper setting for my cnc with the acrylic board, i just cant find the right settings, in special with the speed and all those things, i have used GRBL Control (candle) the one that came with the machine, UGS (Universal G-code Sender) and Estlcam cnc Controller as shown in you videos, but cant find the proper settings to cut and engravind. Any help
Hello sir I am doing an autopilot for me for now it’s in a carton box but on my island here can’t find cutting engraving by laser is there any possibility please for the three panels two Efis ans fcu please if needed I can’t find money to pay you please
The EFIS panel will be redesigned in the future and the other panels aren't planned yet. Beside of the pcbs I'm not selling any physical products at the moment.
Hi. I am starting to build my panels in the same way. I was wondering what type of paint you spray your panels with? Videos are great, keep up the good work! :) Thanks
With much hard work for my videos. I will explain all the steps needed to get the software running and everything that I will do to connect my hardware to it.
Hey Michael, I'm going through the struggles of engraving acrylic for my radio panels and the panels are brilliant white before I paint them gray. After I engrave with my cnc router, the letters are very hard to see unless the backligthing is on. I'm using a 3mm 60 degree v-bit, Spindle is 10,000 RPM and feedrate is 1270mm/Min. I have 3mm thick acrylic (extruded, not cast) and I find the cleanest presentation is achieved by not milling too deep (0.25mm per pass) with final depth at 1.75mm. Any advice is greatly appreciated, and thank you for the information you share.
For the engraving the RPMs are OK. When you cut the panel out I would reduse it to 5000 RPM if possible. My feedrate is 600mm/min and I'm using a 30° v-bit. My final depth is 0,17mm but this was shown in the video. I think the the smaller the letters are the harder they are visible whithout backlighting. Maybe your lines are not wide enough. I think my letters have a line thickness of 0,4mm.
I can't contact users here unless they don't have an email address in their channel. So for all further questions just contact me through the address under my channel info.
Good evening. Very neat to see people make these home cockpits. I painted these panels for a company that supplied parts to Boeing. A couple tips: Rotate the part 90 degrees every coat of paint for even coverage. When you have enough paint to block light, let the part fully cure, then lightly(!) sand the face with 600 grit sand paper. Then, apply a dust coat of paint over it (lower flow of spray gun) and spray from a distance. We do this to eliminate the sand marks and to allow the particles of paint to partially dry mid air, giving you a nice, very fine textured, yet very smooth finish. Finally, apply a matte/flat clear coat. This will not only eliminate all sheen to the panel, but give it that beautiful avionics panel finish. Not sure what paint you use, but we use a polyurthane enamel, but at about $600 a gallon, I'm quite positive it is out of your budget. Instead, I recommend going to your auto paint supply store and purchasing a small pint of urethane paint in whatever color you'd like. They're only about $15 here in the US and one pint will last you countless panels. Not only will the paint spray a lot better, you end up with a rock hard finish that will last many, many years. If you can afford it, I recommend using an HVLP gun (cheap ones work just fine). God bless.
This is worth gold! Thank you!
@@dr_j0nes glad it helps, have fun!
I am starting my project cockpit of a 737 and I will watch all your videos very very close. Thank you for share all this information and experiences with all of us, Cheers!
Guten aben Mickey, Its great to see your still making these videos. I am particularly impressed with your attitude to set-backs. When things don't work out right your not afraid to show it and then you just find another way which helps us from making the same mistakes. Thank you very much.
Thank you. I'm not showing you every mistake I made, but when there is a chance that I can give some useful hints and there is enough time to film this then I will show it to you.
I simply have no words to describe what I saw....Beautifully done, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mike for these details. About to buy a CNC machine to perform similar stuff... That is perfect.
Nice to read that it was inspiring.
Thanks a lot for your time, dedication and kindly by sharing. It'll be useful for me.
Did not expect the results to be so good, truly amazed thanks
you are a genius, that the good god bless you, you had done me a great service, and the good god bless your little girl, thank you thank you very much
Thank you..
Building a home cockpit now, but these panels have me the most anxious in how to accomplish. Im a general contractor, with engineering background, so can build things, but know nothing about how to go about accomplishing this type of detailed cut and etching.
incredible work! thank you so much for your inspirational video
Wow. That painting on the acrylic glas looks awesome. mine didn't look that great.
I've learned that it is a matter of thinning the paint when you spray it. And of course a fine nozzle in your spry gun.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck too bad I don't have such a great garage like you have. :(
@@winnipegfiredep It's not my garage, it's my basement. I hope you can build something that meets your possibilities.
Looks awesome
Nicely done sir!!
It would be nice to have a follow up video for this panel. I don’t recall you ever doing the assembly build and the programming for it in Mobiflight because this was a long time before you changed over to that software from just prosim and your own Arduino code
I too am looking for the followup video showing the rest of the EFIS build. I guess there is no video currently?
Tx for the share. Awesome job!
Sorry guys, I had to upload this video again because of a big encoding error at the end of the video. Thanks for all of your comments under the first video.
Layer the paint in thinner layers, let it dry off in between so that it won’t allow a bubble to form.
Cool stuff. Danke .
awesome tutorial thank you.
Great work!
Thank you.
Hi Mickey. Did you make your own CNC cutter. Or is that a laser cutter. Please make a video on building one and setting up.
This panel is made on my homemade CNC. I have made a five video series about the build. You can watch this from episode #25.
)))) У гениев мысли сходятся. Один в один делал свою панель. Давно правда. Только я на кнопках сначала надписи сделал, а потом вырезал. ;)
Wow
Hi Michael Why don't you paint the white acrylic panel, engrave and cut afterwards ? - By doing so, you spend less time to calibrate and, for not-painted borders, you spray them by protecting your engravings. Thanks in advance for your answer ! KickO
It is very time consuming to prepare and clean the painting pistol. With my methode I only have to paint once. And the alignment process is way faster than the cleaning process. And I think you would always see the transission between the two painting layers.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Thanks for your answer, Michael. In fact, I use ready-to-use painting sprays as you have all RAL colors on the web and you do not need to prepare/wash them. They are not so ecological, I agree. For the transition, you have a good point: I do not know, I will have to try.
What program are you using that automatically finds the X Y and Z axis? I am using candle and I don't see any buttons like that to find your X Y and Z axis. That would be such an awesome add-on to the software program because I am also trying to etch and then cut out panels for my 737 simulator. Or maybe do you know if there is an add-on to find the X Y and Z axis in the candle software program that I am not aware of. Thanks for the great video and hopefully you can help me out.
For controlling my cnc I'm using Estlcam.
Hi Michael, I did’t get a close look to the engraving bit you are using, can you please tell me which one it is and where you got it? It looks somehow different from the bits that I have been using. Thanks in advance! Best regards, Jaap
I don't know anymore where I have bought these bits. But it is from Sorotec and labeled "LGS 36° 0,2mm".
Hi Michael, really great and useful videos.
I need to know some tips about cutting bit you use and parameters of cutting- Tnx a lot
You can find a description about the tools and setting on my website mickeys-flightdeck.de/2019/01/13/cutting-engraving-efis-panels/ and in my live stream of 28.09.2019. There is a table of content in the vdeo description so you can navigate to the corresponding time index.
Hi Michael, Excellent explanation and video. I have made an edgefinder tool for our cnc, but can only probe X, Y & Z. Which Gcode sender are you using for the orientation part? Could you share the G-code for your edgefinder?
Because I'm using Estlcam I don't have a G-code for the probing. I have the option of probing XYZ or XYZ & orientation.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Many thanks for your reply :)
what centimeters does it have?
Michael, can you tell me where you buy your acrylic for your panels. Just moved to Germany, and either my search skills don't translate, or cast acrylic is VERY expensive. Thanks!
The material you have to search for is Plexiglas. I bought it at a local manufacturer who works with this material. I ordered a full sheet. So the price is a bit lower and I saved the shipping costs. Smaller sheets like DIN A4 can be ordered at ebay. I can also imagine that the prices are higher these days.
Hello! Nice work!
Im tryig to make my own backlit panels for the DCS Viggen but im strggeling a little bit with what programs to use for controling the CNC.
Its my first project with the machine so any tips would be most appreciated =)
As I'm doing in this video and still do, I can recommend Estlcam as control software.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck I have now gotten the machine under control thanks to you!
But the acryllic sheet i use just melts and clumps together, giving me a very rough edge.
Do you use some special kind of plastic?
It seems like you are using 10 mm/s speed and 4mm depth per pass. It feels like my machine is goig to vibrate to pieces if i try that speed. Should i just go for it anyway or do you have some tips on how to find the limit without breaking the machine?
Thanks for your answer =)
/Pelle
@@pellejonsson4413 The melting of the acrylic is always a sign of too much heat. I think you know this already. This comes from too much rpm of your spindle or too many blades on your tool. My spindle rotates with only 5000 rpm. Not many spindles can rotate so slow. And in addition I'm using a single blade tool. And I have cut only 0.4 mm per pass.
Supergut erklärt 👍👍👍
Is there a difference in output quality using a laser to engrave or the router?
With a router you can come out with a defined and flat bottom of the engraving. The ground of a laser engraving is a little bit rough. Engraving with a router means cutting. A laser burns, and so can the edges look like. But when you carefully adjust all the parameters, you will come out with an excellent result. Especially when it comes to fine details.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Thanks for the quick response. I am not sure if I can fit a CO2 in my setup. And I heard that Diode lasers cannot cut Acrylic? Or to be more precise only black one or green one i think? So I wonder if instead I go directly for a CNC only to cut and engrave panels. What do you think is the benefit of using the laser?
For me the biggest advantages are the speed and the lack of vibration. The laser is way more faster and a simple magnet is enough to secure the parts. But it also needs a lot of extra equipment like a compressor, a dust exhaust and a filtering system. So when there is only limited space, go with a CNC. And it can also cut thicker pieces of wood, I'd needed.
Hello there, what machine is this that you're using to engrave/cut? How can I find a simillar one that possibly isn't as pricy because I'm on a tight budget.
This is my homebuilt wooden cnc router. You won't find anything cheaper in that size and strength. I have made a five video series about the construction process.
Other builders use also the cheap 3018 China cnc. Might work for engraving small pieces.
Can the same info be found for a Boeing 727? haven't found anything on instrument panels measurements..
I haven't searched ever after this. So I don't know. I have seen a documentation several years ago about two guys who have build an UPS 727. Maybe you can find this again with a lot of searching.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck search results give plane and cabin dimensions, nothing in reference to the cockpit. several have made 727 sims but I haven't got any replies from them. the search continues ha..
Hello, I have a question about plastic milling, I bought a 3018 pro milling machine and I know it is not a serious machine but I think it is enough to pre mill these panels. I would like to know which tool you use and which spindle speed and feed rate data
You will find everything you need here in my last Live-Stream. ruclips.net/video/iJN3fpdk5Hc/видео.html
Why do you use "Pocket Inside" and not "Carve Inside"? Can you share your V-bit tool settings?
Carving builds the with of the letters by vary the engraving depth. For a panel I want to come out with a constant engraving depth. Otherwise your letters would become darker at the edges. My engraving speed is 600mm/s and the depth is 0.2mm. These days I'm routing out the letters with a 36° bit with a tip of 0.3mm.
Hello Michael, i engraved my panel, i have used the same metod that you, But i see the letters "dark" without retroiluminated.
I think it can only be used with light.
why does this happen?? low uality plexiglass??
excelent your work!!
With my material I will have to use a little bit of backlighting always to let all letters appear clear. I think you will fly most of the times with backlighting anyway. If you want the letters to be visible better without backlighting, you will have to use a whiter acrylic. Maybe not as translucent as mine. But I think you will have to use more light if it should be backlighted. You have to try.
Send salve from Brazil
Salve back to you.
Hello Michael. Incredible job,Im impressed. I have a question. I made my own cnc router but I was wondering wich type of router bit are you using for cutting the acrylic? and how many mm/min and rpm are you using?
Hope you can aswer my question.
Thanks very much. Nice day!!
A smaller tool can be turned faster than a bigger tool because the turning speed on the outsides would be higher with a bigger tool. In my case I’m using a single flute 4mm bit with 5000 rpm for cutting and a 30° engraving tool with 12000 rpm. My cutting speed is from 480 - 720 mm/min. Cheap acrylic tends to melt faster and stuck your tool.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Ok, thanks very much Michael!!
That are the same router bits I am using, I think will need more practice for making better.
Have a nice day!
Is it possible to buy pre-painted acryllic?
No sorry, I'm only selling the plans at the moment. And there will be a new version of this panel in the future.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck I was more into if some company could sell painted acryllic to cut with CNC-router just to avoid the difficult paint work.
@@gertlungmaskin1210 There are some basic colors but it has to be a painted white acrylic. And when you then cut it, you will come out with white edges where the light will shine through.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Yes I understand. But do you know if it is possible to buy pre-painted white acryllic somewhere?
Just search for it. This is what I found here. But I can't find out what color is underneath. troas.shop/lackiertes-plexiglas.html
Hi. Nice work. I'm interesting in your alignment tool. Is it homemade,commercial,etc? Any way to get one? Thanks
It is an homemade piece of aluminum. I routed an angle into it so I can align its outer edges parallel to the edges of my workpiece. If you google for "Touchplate CNC" you will find many pictures how to make such a plate on your CNC. You just must have the possipility to cut aluminum on your cnc.
Very good work. What router bit are you using to engrave the font?
I'm using a 30° engraving bit.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Danke!
What type of paint did you use please?
Simple waterbased polyurthan lacker from the home depot.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck thank you. I appreciate it. I thought the lacquer would attack the plastic so I was not sure it would dry.
Ich benutze meinen Laser dafuer. Aber gutes video!
Ich inzwischen auch.
Nice video!
I'm convinced to start building my own CNC now. What degree and diameter v-bits have you had success with for engraving, 01, 0.2, 0.3? 45 degree?
Thanks
Until now the best results I had with a 36° 0,2 mm V-bit.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Thank You!
When you were doing the engraving, why didn't you use the edges/corner of the pocket you milled to zero and orient the part to be engraved?
I measured the different buttons and came out with a little heigt variance because of the paint and the glue. And to engrave all the letters with the same depth I had to zero each button seperatly.
hi ! Do you remember how deep did you mill please ? I tried 0.1mm on a painted PLA, the result is far from yours ! Trying with PMMA (acrylic) soon.
The engraving depth was 0.2 mm.
Moin Michael,
zunächst vielen Dank für Deine vielen hilfreichen und inspirierenden Videos. Ich habe eine Frage (eigentlich sind es mehrere Fragen): die 30 % Lichtdurchlässigkeit sind noch aktuell? Oder bist Du mittlerweile auf anderes Glas ausgewichen? Gilt das wahrscheinlich so auch bei Gravur mit einem Laser, oder? Und hast Du zufällig einen Händler im Internet den Du empfehlen kannst?
Viele Grüße aus Hamburg
Christian
Ich bin inzwischen auf das 3% lichtdurchlässige Plexiglas umgeschwenkt, da es in unbeleuchtetem Zustand besser lesbar ist (WN297). Das kann sowohl auf dem Laser als auch auf der Fräse bearbeitet werden. Ich hole das immer als ganze Platte bei einem Händler vor Ort, die ich mir nur zum Transport in drei Streifen schneiden lasse. Kleinere spezielle Stücke Plexiglas habe ich bisher immer bei Ebay gesucht.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Lieben Dank für die Antwort! Habe direkt mal ein wenig Glas bestellt. 👍
Hello there, could you please tell which software do you really use for the cuttings and engraving, and what are the settings for cutting or engraving with cnc using Acrylic board. I can not find the proper setting for my cnc with the acrylic board, i just cant find the right settings, in special with the speed and all those things, i have used GRBL Control (candle) the one that came with the machine, UGS (Universal G-code Sender) and Estlcam cnc Controller as shown in you videos, but cant find the proper settings to cut and engravind. Any help
I went through this topic in detail in one of my life-streams. You can find your answers here: ruclips.net/video/iJN3fpdk5Hc/видео.html
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Thank you for the feedback, will check it out
Hello sir I am doing an autopilot for me for now it’s in a carton box but on my island here can’t find cutting engraving by laser is there any possibility please for the three panels two Efis ans fcu please if needed I can’t find money to pay you please
The EFIS panel will be redesigned in the future and the other panels aren't planned yet. Beside of the pcbs I'm not selling any physical products at the moment.
Hi there Michael, what is the size of the letters/text hight and width, if you know?
It has a height of 3.5 mm and a with of 2 mm.
Hi. I am starting to build my panels in the same way. I was wondering what type of paint you spray your panels with? Videos are great, keep up the good work! :) Thanks
I'm using just a normal water based polyurethan acrylic lacker from our home depot. The RAL code is 7011.
@@Mickeys_Flightdeck Thank you :)
How did you get a free license from Prosim.
With much hard work for my videos. I will explain all the steps needed to get the software running and everything that I will do to connect my hardware to it.
Hey Michael, I'm going through the struggles of engraving acrylic for my radio panels and the panels are brilliant white before I paint them gray. After I engrave with my cnc router, the letters are very hard to see unless the backligthing is on. I'm using a 3mm 60 degree v-bit, Spindle is 10,000 RPM and feedrate is 1270mm/Min. I have 3mm thick acrylic (extruded, not cast) and I find the cleanest presentation is achieved by not milling too deep (0.25mm per pass) with final depth at 1.75mm. Any advice is greatly appreciated, and thank you for the information you share.
For the engraving the RPMs are OK. When you cut the panel out I would reduse it to 5000 RPM if possible. My feedrate is 600mm/min and I'm using a 30° v-bit. My final depth is 0,17mm but this was shown in the video. I think the the smaller the letters are the harder they are visible whithout backlighting. Maybe your lines are not wide enough. I think my letters have a line thickness of 0,4mm.
Do you do this commercially or is it just a hobby
It's a hobby.
Hi My only comment is you should be climb milling NOT conventional this will reduce the heat. Nice work though
Hope you get i need help with a project that this equipment would be great for please contact me and ill fill you in with details thanks Wayne
I can't contact users here unless they don't have an email address in their channel. So for all further questions just contact me through the address under my channel info.
Wanted to say I can find money to pay you please