How To Install A Bottle Trap With POP-UP Drain Stopper To Replace Your Old P-Trap | P-Trap UPGRADE!
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2021
- ITEMS I USED:
- Bottle Trap W/ Pop-Up Drain Plug (Flat Black) - amzn.to/3B1dWzJ
- Bottle Trap W/ Pop-Up Drain Plug (Silver) -amzn.to/2UBWmmg
- Bottle Trap W/ Pop-Up Drain Plug (Gold) - amzn.to/2WigWIL
- 12" Slip Joint Extension Tube - amzn.to/3k8KiSk
- Plumber's Putty - amzn.to/3y3VlRz
- Petroleum Jelly - amzn.to/3gorj4Z
- Compact Hacksaw - amzn.to/3mpSCQm
- 12" Hacksaw - amzn.to/383JPer
- Channellock Pliers - amzn.to/2WiBPny
- Assorted Grit Sandpaper - amzn.to/3zbacuT
HOME DEPOT PRODUCTS I USED:
- MOEN Faucet (Matte Black) - homedepot.sjv.io/e4A1Oz
- MOEN Faucet (Silver) - homedepot.sjv.io/9WJLb5
Hi Friends on this video I'll be showing you how to install a bottle trap with a POP-UP drain stopper to replace your old P-Trap. This is an amazing P-Trap UPGRADE if your looking to have that modern exposed bathroom console sink or floating sink style vanity.
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#bathroomrenovation #Ptrap #Bathroomplumbing 
Хобби
I wanted to add to my original comment. I am a licensed plumber and retired plumbing inspector. I did review your video again. My opinion of the “modern “ trap hasn’t changed. You have a done a very good job of explaining everything. Doing these videos is a lot of work. Your advice and techniques are sound for this project. The video was not a technical one on the rules but to install a designer’s style fitting. While some of your terminology is incorrect at a professional level, it doesn’t matter as your viewers understand what you are saying. This trap is attractive but it is a little tricky to install for the novice. Where people are going to have a problem is the connection at the wall. I call this fitting a trap adapter. It comes with a plastic nut and a teflon gasket to make the seal. Now, to install the new trap you are cutting off the threads to allow what I will call a rubber bushing to be inserted. Unfortunately this doesn’t meet code as at least not here in Ontario. Slip joints are not allowed downstream of the trap weir. Although from my experience it hasn’t been rigorously enforced. This is the point of no return. If the bushing leaks and you cannot get it to work your only option is to replace the trap adapter. Not always easy and may require cutting the wall. Most cases not a DIY project. My post is not meant to be a personal criticism. I wanted to point out some of the ramifications if you decide to install this product. Looking at some of the other posts I’m not the only one who feels that this product may not be worth it. It does look good. But in plumbing functionality comes before beauty. The plumbing trap design and installation is critical. It is what keeps sewer gas from entering the space. It should be simple in design and when it fails needs to be obvious so it can be noticed quickly and repaired. That’s why there are so many rules governing it’s installation.
I appreciate the thoughtful explanation.
Thank you for this. I didn't understand how attaching to the wall would work after cutting the threads. I'm no plumber but pretty handy. I was feeling over my head; this helped confirm it. I'll call a plumber; hopefully, it can still work since I've purchased all the decorative plumbing.
@@terrenceburrell1091 I’m confident that a qualified plumber can install what you have purchased. It’s not a difficult job but requires some experience. The trick is to install the product with minimum damage to the wall and adjacent area. Not always possible. Be prepared to do some drywall repair, patching and painting. Not the end of the world. Good luck Roger.
Is my understanding correct the bottle traps are not to code and should not be installed in Ontario?
@@amonadi2 Yes you are correct according to Part 7 of the Ontario Building Code. (OBC)
Nice video.
Do NOT put petroleum jelly on any rubber part. The rubber will slowly break down. When you use a lubricant on rubber, use a Teflon or a silicone based lubricant.
Thank you for the advice! 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Yes, if inferior product is supplied, but if the provided materials are silicone based "rubber" petroleum jelly (Vasoline, etc.) will not "rot" them. Still, Silicone based jelly lubes are better to try first. Teflons are becoming inferior to many newer replacement materials as Teflon, and related materials, tends to undergo continuous plastic deformation, or "squish", until useless. Over tightening is a common user failure.
Love the video - very helpful. You teach me things that I find very practical and easy to do. Great instructions!
Thank you for the amazing feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Nice product! I love this drain kit! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you 🙏🏽 so much!
Good video, I love this drain kit, thank you for sharing this.
Thank you for this! I wanted the p-trap to match!
I really like this bottle trap. Just make sure you add that putty underneath. That part is very important to prevent leaking
Nice video but you should include how to line up wall trap to sink drain opening so pipe goes straight back to the wall.
Thank you for this video. It is very thorough and easy to understand. I have to open up the wall and move my outlet pipe over a few inches. When rebuilding the outlet pipe, what type and size of PVC pipe do I use to receive the trap pipe? Is is 1-1/4" I.D.? How snugly does it have to fit? I'd have to imagine... ..."VERY".
Works just like it's supposed to 😊
Thank you so much for this video!
Nice work. I'm trying to figure out a way to hide the water lines. I'm thinking you just extended them up the wall a little and they hide in the sink cavity area underneath.
Great video, very helpful!
Two questions:
1. Wouldn't the pipe connecting to the wall drain need to be at a slight down angle rather than level?
2. The bottle trap I'm installing didn't include the rubber adapter/bushing/plug thingy that goes into the pipe in the wall allowing the 1-1/4" to connect to the 1-1/2" flush to the wall-and I can't seem to find anything similar anywhere. Any ideas?
Thanks!
I'm looking for that "rubber adapter/bushing/plug thingy that goes into the pipe in the wall allowing the 1-1/4" to connect to the 1-1/2" flush to the wall" as well. My disappointment is that he didn't give it a close up or look to the instructions for the name. Technically it is a rubber Rosette reducer. Code allows for rubber reducing bushing. The familiar part name is "a donut" but code only list it part number. I have not found one small enough for pvc to sinkdrain. If anyone finds, please advise
Thanks!
Cutting your threads off the trap arm and stuffing that rubber piece is a hack thing to do.
Great video. Can you do one on how to install that floating sink.
Good job 👍
Thank you!! 🙏🏽😊
Love it I was looking for something like this my double sink in mbath one side has no room for regular p trap and I hate those stupid rods
What size was was your pipe stub out I have a 1 1/2 stub out so do I buy a 1 1/4 p trap or 1 1/2
Hi! Good evening! I’ve been watching your videos since I started renovating our house little by little. Your videos are very helpful. If you could please help me where I can buy for the RUBBER PLUG ONLY? The one that you put some petroleum jelly. Please let me know! Thank you and I’ll patiently wait for your response.
Thank you for your upload 😊 🙏 I already subscribed your channel 😀
soooo kinda confused after reading comments. replacing exisiting vanity with floating vanity so would love to use bottle trap. Wall drain is not even with sink drain. Off by about 2-3 inches. Are there any attachments I can use to be able to still use bottle trap or no way??? Please explain in very easy terminology if I can make it work LOL
How did you seal the hole on the tap that was originally designed for the lift rod?
Beware!: Drain in wall has to be exactly center of drain on sink for a bottle trap. P-traps can swing to offset to compensate for off center sink drains, bottle traps cannot.
Once you have the drain pipe going towards the wall out of the bottle trap, why can't you use 45s to change direction to hit the right spot in the wall exiting to the street?
@@realSamAndrew you can
I'm glad someone mentioned that, I had the same problem recently and I had to go back to a standard p-trap. Thanks.
I just fixed my p trap the long tube was rusted out yes it's brass and put in plastic to replace, I had to get rings that went from 1 and a half to 1 and a quarter and it works good now no leaks. 73
@@realSamAndrew You can, especially if an approximately 1/4" fall per foot is maintained. It's all then about aesthetic deterioration of using this type of trap in the first place. If matching elements are available it'd be a great setup to showcase.
Although a bottle trap is more-or-less a P-trap, it depends on an internal tube to create the trap seal, similar to a bell trap. If the interior tube fails due to corrosion or another problem, sewer gas could enter the home, and it is not examinable to verify that that the trap is functional. Also, it is not self cleaning/scouring. So a bottle trap is not approved by the plumbing codes, although some jurisdictions may allow them as a “special condition.” As a certified plumbing inspector - I have yet to see one of these in the field. Plumbing codes are very conservative and careful. I thing this is a cool idea - how it works in the long term - I do not know.
I have inherited three in newly purchased home with an approved 1997 remod in CA. All seem to be working fine and show little to no signs of recent work.
Is the “extender” sold separately??
It looks really nice and modern. How does a person clean out all of the stuff that normally gets stuck in a regular p-trap?
Hi! Thank you! There’s a easy screw cap on the bottom that makes access to the trap easy 👍🏽😊
That's a good point but p traps also have a screw under the curve if you get that type. The plastic had screws on p traps are easy to take apart it's a no brainer. 73
I bought and installed one of these. The pop up feature is pretty nice, but the gasket it uses to keep the sink full is not good. Almost right away I noticed that water was slowly leaking out. I tried swapping out with an extra gasket I had from the bottle trap to see if it improved things, but it was only slightly better and the water still slowly drained. Despite the other comment about this not being up to code, would anyone have a suggestion on how to fix this problem? Thank you.
Do those bottles traps prevent sewer gasses from coming back up the drain?
I had the same question. I'm guessing you'd have to install a traditional p inside the wall behind it. If so, another great looking poorly designed device
They do. The water runs down the tail piece to the bottom of the bottle trap and then rises outside that pipe to the trap arm going into the wall. Look up bottle trap cross section.
Yes, the gasses would be trapped if it's installed correctly. Just gotta make sure that the inner tube goes down deep enough. Here's a helpful link i found explaining the installation
www.pigoran.top/products.aspx?cname=bottle+p+trap+installation&cid=27
@@MrMdemon Link not working
that old p trap look so new
I'm concerned that this drain is not a trap. It will allow sewer gases to enter the house through this sink. I would also not level the horizontal portion of the drain tube. I would add a slight downward slope towards the wall to ensure drainage. Also, spitballing the length of the horizontal tube may cause an obstruction in the path of drainage in the wall at the first 90° pipe fitting as you may make the horizontal piece too long.
Same as a drum trap?
what about the hole with the old drain stopper handle? is it just there or did you change the faucet too?
Hopefully the maker of those kits includes a push-in plastic or rubber bumper just for that purpose.
I have one of these. Looks good, but crap for draining. It takes forever to drain and clogs easy. Went back to the P Trap.
Unless the center of the drain outlet under the sink & the wall connection are perfectly in line ( not offset) the bottle trap will not work
I had heard that petroleum jelly can deteriorate plastic with time. And since plumbers putty is made with petroleum oils, why use it?
On the container it tells you what type of plastics to avoid. The sink is porcelain and the fits are brass, so in this case, there is not plastic contact.
Never would pass inspection in Canada. What’s wrong with using a p-trap?
They are like an drum trap but with the bottom removable for cleaning instead of the top
Sewer gas?
Illegal in many areas. In my area, you cannot have any trap where you can't see the trap seal, except rare exceptions. Honestly, there is nothing better than a P-trap. It can easily be disassembled, replaced, and doesn't need to to installed with a great amount of accuracy. A bottle trap isn't better at all.
Thank you for the feedback 👍🏽
What's the difference?
Bottle traps of this type are prohibited by the Uniform Plumbing and the International Plumbing Codes!
4:19 you can also apply Teflon tape around the thread. The water is actual through the thread not the ring seal
Thank you for sharing!
Cutting the pipe is a no no. You cannot install the p-trap pipe back unless you cut the wall and replace the thread pipe back. :(
I cut mine because i went from brass to plastic they make connectors and reducer rings, it don't leak. Job done. 73
At 4:20 where you say "it will leak if you don't do this" that means the drain failed to seal on top doesn't it?
Yes, if the top plumbers putty seal fails then it will leak if there is no putty also at the bottom. There are 2 other reasons that I have learnt about from leaks in the past at our house, which do not necesarilly mean the top seal is compromised. 1) Safety Overflow - Plumbers putty at the bottom will seal against any water that might drain out through the safety overflow hole at the back of the sink (seen at 1.09). At 3.22 you can see the rectangular slot holes in the drain assembly (below the putty and above the thread) that allow water from the internal built-in overflow channel (seen at 1.08) to escape. 2) If the water is running with the plug popped up, or especially if the plug has been down and the sink filled with water when the plug is popped-up some of the draining water will escape sideways through the drain overflow holes in the reverse manner to which it is intended and then leak out the bottom without plumbers putty sealing the bottom.
If the last person doesn't drain it after using it, will you put your hand in the muddy water to drain it. For me, I am would not. Furthermore, if this is not working out for you after a while, you will be having big trouble to reinstall the old P trap because you have cut off the wall pipe screw head.
Without a P trap what keep the sewer gas smell out of the house?
This is a new design and has p trap like features 👍🏽😊
I don’t recommend this type of trap, in case of a drain clog, the pipe cannot not be snaked, unless you take apart the whole piping assembly, and snake it from the wall.
That's a good point but I never had to snake a bathroom sink. I had to brush one with a bottle brush because of toothpaste buildup. 73
You can still run a zip it down. If I were to snake a bathroom sink drain I wouldn't be coming from the top, I'd be disassembling the trap anyways and going from there.
@@Chris-D9 more work than it's worth. 73
@@Chris-D9 forget the zip and snake very hot water usually breaks through a clog. I use hot water at work because I cannot remove the cover on the clean out they installed the lid up side down. Hot water works great. I'm old school and prefer p traps. 73
@@ronb6182 Yeah. I'll definitely go the eaiser route first but years working as a maintenance guy for a property company, you see alot lol...it blows my mind how many people are completely clueless of minor home maintenance, but then again it keeps us employed.
Having to reach through dirty water to drain the sink is not improvement.
It's all easy when you have a big open work area, try that under a 28" vanity with narrow door opening, show me that easy install.
This is best for open sinks since it’s mean for aesthetic purposes. I made a video on regular p trap install under a bathroom vanity. Please see my playlist👍🏽😊
those bottle traps do not meet code.
This. These are not code compliant in the US. They are in some other countries though.
I'm just curious, How specifically don't these meet code? Is there a work around?
AND can you put a traditional p-trap behind the wall like for ox boxes? And for example most bathtubs for slab-on-grade homes the p trap may not be visible but presumed to be in the slab.
The reason I ask is because manufactures typically go through great measure to make sure products are useable where available, And since they sell bottle traps all throughout Chicago I can't imagine the are getting sold and returned
@@maximusmarine unfortunately no they don't. Manufacturers and resellers are not code enforcers. Big box stores sell many plumbing parts that are not code compliant, such as flexible drain pipes, and yes, these drum traps. They're not code compliant because they're not self scouring/cleaning, they restrict water flow by design, internal parts are not visible for inspection (i.e. concealed). You can not add anything to the drain setup to make it code compliant. The existence of the drum trap alone means it will never be compliant.
In usa and Canadá and for good reason, they are crap.
@@jnicemiz I just installed roughly 96 of them in a hotel in Norfolk VA and passed inspection no problem
Wazzup!!! Bro!!! Fix my house!
Give me that honey do list lol
@@FixThisHouse lol!
Steve Colton, look at the Uniform Plumbing Code. Then reply back.
Okay video but missing the important information. I bout this item and am planning on using it, but I do not like how the bottle trap connects to the drain. My plan is to use a p trap adapter and buy a black eschuteon plate to cover it. That way if this POS fails I dont have to cut the wall out, I'll just install a standard p trap.
Not allowed in Ontario Canada. However if the installation is not being inspected there’s nothing to stop you. When I look at the design it would be prone to blocking up. Not a smooth transition like a p- trap. I wouldn’t install this style even if it was free.
Thanks for the feedback!
Don’t remove the excess plumbers putty until the drain is fully tightened.
My word! Don’t you have a pencil?
theres a lot of issues in this video 1 dont use the blue container putty on porcelain or steel or iron sinks... its for porous stone. it doesnt have the same life span its shorter
dont putty your bottom if it leaks its because you did it wrong try again putty near the threads can permanently lock your spout to your sink when it ages.
the engineers make rubber seals to provide the best seal possible so if your kit comes with a seal you dont need and shouldnt use putty
never run pipes level... you should have a 1/4 to 1/2 in drop per foot
when checking for leaks first tug on all joints lightly to see if you tightened all joints just in case you missed 1 then run water for few seconds for leak... no great use pressure test by filling sink then letting it drain if you have garbage disposer turn it on too... no leaks perfect work
if you find a leak put a pan under leak letting water run and tighten till the leak stops, you dont want to over tighten!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
😳 you honestly have no idea huh
I think he was a Dr in a past lifetime the way he applied that petroleum Vaseline reminded me of having a prostate exam. I aways paid attention not too hear a zipper come down!
Not code in Kentucky
Plumbers putty instead of silicone?? i thought black gaskets = silicone, anyone else ?
So you would rather stick your hand in a sink full of dirty water to pop sink drain instead of push/pull lever behind faucet? Not me.
Not only dirty water, what if it was hot water?
Pros and cons each way. Traditional linkage and rod have a potential leak point where linkage threads into the trap, they also obstruct the drain and collect gunk and poor draining. The new popups are easy to install, if you don't want to put your hand in a sink of dirty water, quick tip.....use your wife's toothbrush to pop up the sink drain.
Cutting your drain and using a press-in coupler is a terrible idea.
There's a reason bottle traps aren't code approved for use in plumbing in the US...
The image depicting a plastic p-trap as being from 1880 was clearly wrong as plastic is not THAT old but according to inspectapedia, the actual p-trap concept really was invented in 1880, and the drum trap dates from before 1884…so I guess the plastic could deem that as modern. Inspectapedia goes on to say drum or bottle traps: “are NOT self scouring - the drain doesn't tend to wash itself clear when in use.” “So drum traps in typical household use can be a constant annoyance.” “...prohibited in most plumbing jurisdictions.”
I don't think that is code compliant. If so show us the code section.
Worry about the rubber gasket,Promotes a bottle trap…..
Besides the clogging problem. They do not stop sewer gas from coming back up through the drain and last I checked methane gas makes homes go boom.
CORRECTION: Bottle traps DO indeed prevent sewer gas. The inner vertical down tube recesses over an inch lower than the horizontal exit therefore same principle and purpose as traditional P trap. Water is always blocking return gas
I don't see how, because the water only rises to the bottom edge of the horizontal pipe, leaving clear air passage from the sewer up the tail piece.
@@realSamAndrew I thought the same thing but in a bottle trap think upside down bottle. Sans a visual, Imagine you are gas swimming the surface of a pool, to exit the pool you (gas) must go under the water to the ladder's first rung (the bottle neck) to step up. Gas is not going to travel down in order to travel up and out. That's the seal. Same concept as the 6 inch dip curve of a regular P trap but in 6mm full circle around the drain (contained in a bottle)
@@maximusmarine so you're saying that the smaller diameter pipe descends below the water line so the mouth of the small drain pipe is always submerged inside the larger cylinder?
@@realSamAndrew Affirmative Whereas a P traps holds about a cup of water to seal, the bottle does the same with much less. If you open a bottle trap about a 1/4 cup will leak out. That was your sitting seal in the vertical pipe sitting below the exit to the horizontal piece.
My friend and neighbor works for the union. The Bottle Trap IS NOT code here in Illinois but code is determined by purpose and part number. The bottle trap is not code (as it is not an approved "part"), but it does not violate code. Because it performs the same purpose as the approved parts. Inspectors like parts they know and most people don't like to upset inspectors for obvious reasons. But you have to remember Code is barely passing parts. You have to show the inspector the process and parts you're using not only meet code, they beat code. A well made bottle trap, especially, a Kohler surpasses code
@@realSamAndrew Yes. If it doesn't pass code, just explain to inspector. I've had to do it twice on bottle traps, And tens of times on other things. Some inspectors fail anything they arent familiar with. Most sign off with an explanation (many don't) Many codes list actual part numbers when the company that made the old part has actually upgraded and evolved the part. Always be courteous and respectful. But Yes, the do the same as P or S traps just much better looking.
Do these NOT block sewer gases?
Like another person said
Bottle traps DO indeed prevent sewer gas. The inner vertical down tube recesses over an inch lower than the horizontal exit therefore same principle and purpose as traditional P trap. Water is always blocking return gas
As a commercial union plumber in California these so called European bottle traps are not accepted for the reason of not seeing were the trap seal is.
K
I’m amazed at how many “plumbers” make the stupidest comments here.
I don't want to think about how clogged this would be after a month with teenage boys...
Didn't realize they had PVC pipes back in 1880...
What state is this in and it may not be up to code in your state. I'm in California and its only aloud per special conditions.
1004.1 Prohibited
No form of trap that depends for its seal upon the action of movable parts shall be used. No trap that has concealed interior partitions, except those of plastic, glass, or similar corrosion-resisting material, shall be used. "S" traps, bell traps, and crown-vented traps shall be prohibited. No fixture shall be double trapped. Drum and bottle traps shall be installed for special conditions. No trap shall be installed without a vent, except as otherwise provided in this code.
Vaseline will rot the pipe. This guy is a joke.
Proof? Show it, don't just spout it dumbly (pun intended). This guy is providing some useful DYI info, not a scientific peered reviewed unquestionable solution. Let up and provide your own proof rather than just opinion without any reliable peer reviewed proof, or you're the JOKE! Many plastics produced today, and yesterday, will withstand a bit of petroleum jelly and NOT rot soon or easily. Plumbers Grease, used for decades on old rubber packing in faucets, is just a very thick version of petroleum jelly. Still, yes, a Silicone based lube is better.
Don't install this on your plumbing in place of a P-trap thumbs down on this video.
Please explain why not