THE BEER WALK IN IS JUST DONE
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 дек 2024
- This took forever to get the customer to approve this replacement... But we got them operating and all was well.
HVACR VIDEOS MERCH WEBSITE - www.hvacrvideo...
Please consider supporting my channel by
Becoming a Patreon member - Patreon / hvacrvideos
Becoming a RUclips channel member / @hvacrvideos
By purchasing tools via my affiliate links below at TRUTECHTOOLS.COM and use the offer code BIGPICTURE to save 8% on your total purchase (exclusions apply)
Visiting my website and purchasing merch www.hvacrvideo...
HVAC OVERTIME CHANNEL LINK - / hvacovertime
Social Media
Facebook / hvacr-videos. .
Instagram / hvacrvideos
For any inquiries please contact me at chris@hvacrvideos.com
Mailing Address
HVACR VIDEOS
12523 LIMONITE AVE.
440 - 184
MIRA LOMA, CA. 91752
I'm an IT professional by trade, but still find your videos super interesting and have been a subscriber for around 5 years... Never miss a video. Thanks!
Fellow IT guy who loves this channel.
Same here!
same here :D
same
Yup, same here!
Beat thing I heard you say…. “It’s my company I can do what I want” 😂 👍🏽 Love it and you’re totally right.
Something I noticed is how much better the music overlay is on the braising scenes, it's no longer very loud. And hearing the sound of the torch in the background makes it feel more 'connected'.
Plus if I'm typing a comment, normal line about 'love the content, great to pick up tips to use while doing similar things, made some home installs easier/neater'.
I'm trying to get better at the editing, thanks for noticing the changes
@@HVACRVIDEOS You know hvacr videos, your videos are nice and i also made an entire playlist with your videos i watched and liked the most. ruclips.net/p/PLSqPPHWGMDsCKxssZRHXFNc8uCYkdlcKi
And plus in the playlist’s description, i made a little easter egg related to R22
You can ignore it if you want to you don’t have to look at it
A phrase I like to use when I’m doing something that seems stupid is to respond with “I’m crazy, not stupid.” Before explaining why whatever I’m doing is acceptable. It’s good for getting a giggle when teaching.
i will surely use that phrase
Just a dream on how clean these installs always are. Customers truly don't know how lucky they are
No kidding. Most of the outfits in my city are hacks and cut corners all the time.
Hi Mr. HVACR guy. I am a new technician 10 months into this career. I'm finally on my own and doing my own thing in the company I work for. Your videos are lifesavers for learning this trade. Often times I do what you say without asking for the why and it just works, so I don't really need the why. However, my company provides my nitrogen tanks, and they don't like me leaking nitrogen through the copper while brazing. They say it's a waste of time lugging it around, joining the hose to the copper, and a waste of nitrogen to purge it. We don't charge an actual hourly for our work; our hourly rate is baked in to a fixed price for each service. It's the same price whether it takes is 1 hour or 10 hours.
I work in residential only. 5 ton is the maximum size system I have ever seen or worked in. We bring it to a vacuum for 25 minutes or until it reaches 500 microns, whichever takes longer, to remove contaminants.
Is it crucial to use Nitrogen while brazing? Is there any unforeseen risk to doing it without the nitrogen? Do you know the reason, or have you always just done it that way because it's tradition?
Look up the channel AC Service Tech LLC on RUclips. He has a video titled: “HVAC Brazing Basics With/Without Nitrogen”. He goes over the difference inside of the piping for both.
Supposed to reduce contamination and carbon build up inside the tubing, reducing the likelihood of plugged filters and or orifices/metering devices
I highly recommend you find somewhere else to work, these are a bunch of straight up hacks youre working for! 25 minutes or 500 microns whichever takes longer lmfao so what if theres moisture or leaks?
@@Ryan-rv7lv Run time is 15 minutes of initial vacuum. Close hoses and turn off vacuum for 10 minutes after. Note location of needle on the gauge (I'm the only one with an sman480 so I use the micron gauge built in) and if it changes in those 10 minutes (or doesn't stabilize the change-over-minutes value on it's micron count in my case since it tells me), check braze joints. If it doesn't change, let it run for until 500 microns, or 10 minutes, whichever is longer. So really, it takes 35 minutes to do a recovery or an initial evacuation.
What is your technique?
re: the remote cards, I wish I was closer to you. I do this kind of thing professionally and work in IT. There is slick solution somewhere here that would allow the best of both worlds and put you customer at ease. You could you put them behind an extremely tight firewall, or even better setup a VPN tunnel to your company with wireguard. Your company could even update the firmware over the VPN tunnel to put their mind even more at ease.
As someone that’s been in the infosec space I can kinda empathize with the owners not wanting to bother with the web telemetry: imagine you’re the one that approved its installation only for an exploit to result in the cooling to be turned off, leaving you with a fridge full of ruined food and potentially a closure while you wait for stock all because you opted for a “nice to have” web server interface. That’s risk that’s hard to justify.
The choice of music for those brazing segments were perfect. I loved how the alarm in the first bit was in tune to the beat, and the second one really paired well to the phone call that happened before the transition 😆
I too am an IT person I like your work ethic and organizational skills
"It's my company I can do what I want." My man.
Also i noticed the pipes get pretty red hot when soldering, ive always been taught to avoid that “cheery red” on the copper because the silver in the solder can burn out at too high a temperature meaning a weaker joint and premature cracking/failure of the joint leading to leaks…🤷♂️
HUH?! jeez dude, I thought I was watching someone else, not HVACR VIDEOS, with that new intro... Here's to a better year.
Always look forward to new videos from you.
Fascinating as always, and I appreciate how you explain what you do as you do it.
I work for a major grocery store chain and we get notifications on our company issued phones and the clock in app on our personal phones if a cooler, freezer, or any other piece of merchandising equipment is over temp. The system works as intended and if we have a major refrigeration issue, the management teams phones get notified right away so they can create a service order or emergency service order to get someone out right away. It's a nightmare having to move 10,000 products to coolers and freezers because of it but it saves a lot of money in the long run quickly getting to the root of the problem before product is ruined. Some companies could care less if product is damaged because they can just file an insurance claim but why put your people through that hassle but its what they pay us to do.
ITs strange that we here in EU(denmark) Have been making refrigeration systems this way for 40 years! Always like this. Evap controlled by termostat, defrost controlled by that termostat (timer built in). We have never wires from roof to evap. Only pressure controlled , and evap and comp unit has own fuse. nice to see a danfoss KP5 on that system
My 2 year old is still loving the brazing montages. Thanks for the screaming and laughing in my house, Chris.
Thanks to you every time I braze now I have muzak playing in my head.
We appreciate you! Thank you again for another video.
"It's my company I can do what I want" 🤭 Love that phrase 👍
It was nice to hear Uponor mentioned. Sometimes I drive by the Uponor headquarters. Our local hardware stores are full of Uponor plumbing products.
About the network card, I completely agree with the concern that is coming from leaving the network card exposed to the internet.
Assuming the card is not programmed to connect to some proprietary server from the manufacturer and is only providing a local web-page, I think a good solution would be to restrict access to it by using a zero-config virtual private network (VPN) service, such as Zerotier, or Tailscale.
If configured correctly, this will put the network card in an invite-only private network, where the client can easily add or revoke access to said card through a management website on a as-needed basis, without risking any exposure over the internet.
A common trick usually is to connect the internat cable to a small ARM computer board, such as a raspberry pi (or its clones), connect said computer to the WiFi network via the zero-config VPN and that's easy and safe access.
Haven't seen your videos in a long time, glad to see you.
As always great video Chris. Nice clean install, learning a lot from your videos.
You didn’t have one here but a general tip with IntelliGen and QRC controllers into make sure you either completely remove or if it’s adjustable set the anti-short cycle time delay to as near zero as possible. There is a timer built into the controller and they will compete with each other.
Really love your videos. If I didn't live In OR and CA wasn't how it was id come work for ya. Keep up the good work.
They've done a revision of the fan motor bracket I believe, original one cracked often. Had an on call where every bracket was broken only one was salvageable and could not get the newer style locally. Got the old style brackets and fan guards to put in.
I laughed harder than I had to when you put the pin and got that 8 in there 😅
Yo me toooo Lmao his finger said it all
love these types of videos
That swage had split, always heat the pipe when swaging with a rast expander.
Yeah that is a flaw of the Navac power expander swaging tool, not my favorite...
Use spin bit. It heats the copper up and I’ve yet to split a joint.
I saw the exact moment it split lol, came to comments to see who else saw
I will discuss this on my Livestream this evening 1/23/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) on RUclips come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/MkAGiy6pwh8/видео.html
Nice work Chris.
Dude if I was living overseas, I would really would love working for ya
Brazing and watching people braze is so satisfying lol
I'm thinking you should have someone who knows tech talk to them about the cards... and how they can be done securely. Even if they only have it available on their local network, you would be able to get the info at a computer instead of having to do it in the box, and it could auto-send the manager alerts
I love my sunglass-Z87 safety glasses, because we do roof work and it's so much easier.
I use the spin bit to swedge with and absolutely love them. I’ve had hand swedgers bind on me and not too fond of em. But that navac looks bad ass🤙🏼🤙🏼
I will discuss this on my Livestream this evening 1/23/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) on RUclips come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/MkAGiy6pwh8/видео.html
Between the QRC and the Intelligen evaporators I am liking the Intelligen more and more. They are easy to program and I love being able to put an IWC board on in order for the customer to receive alarms. I also like being able to log in remotely to look over what the evaporator is doing before I even arrive.
Yeah I really wish my customers would approve the internet cards... mine are all afraid of connected systems
@@HVACRVIDEOS I already miss "This video, is brought to you by Sporlan" instead of Heatcraft, lol.
"Smart" controllers can always be defeated by "dumb" employees.
@@RambozoClown Yes
Sporlan will be back soon, this is just a Heatcraft project I did with them, Sporlan is still my main Sponsor
A note on the eev. You can drive them open or closed with a sma-12 tool.
Yeah I actually have the sma tool but I don't use it that often in what I work on. I rarely have issues with exv's
Really good info
Thanks
Big picture gang reporting!
Good install.
I like how the alarm in the back ground bled into the music to make it sound like an 80s jam. 🤣
In the electrical box, I suggest you invest on some spacers. This way you can influence where it stops without changing mechanical properties. If you're anxious of it unscrewing, you add a grover thus surpassing the intended solution. 12:51
Great video
You are the tech I aspire to
Great job
Luv your vid great work I have always wanted to see what goes into the commercial side of hvac I do residential hvac with my dad
Noticed a few minor editing improvements! Awesome job Chris! Videos only keep getting better my friend! I get a kick when I see comments about us IT folks watching your channel! They are just that good! 👍
First Class good guy 👍👍👍
i am surprised you left that big oil trap 13;48 thanks for sharing nice unit.
I'm an IT person by nature, but I find your videos interesting. I did miss the Powered by sporlan intro though ;)
It will be back this was just a project with heatcraft, Sporlan is still my main Sponsor
Good stuff as always Chris 👍
This video is brought to you by Sporlan.
Quality. Integrity. And tradition
Well lad that name and beginning was new
It was just a project I did with HEATCRAFT Sporlan is still my main Sponsor
Thats awsome. Man you really do quality work keep it up
Its good that you give it plenty of heat to get your brazing rod to penetrate the joint, just be careful about overheating the joint because you can cause oxidation that can prevent the brazing rod from tinning the copper properly and getting a solid joint. You want the copper to be at a dim glowing red, not a bright glow
And that swage at 10:26 isn't ideal, but I'm just nitpicking we've all done these things before I just have the luxury of not having my work on the internet to be critiqued 😝
I was flowing nitrogen to prevent the oxidation....
Yeah fair enough silfos is pretty forgiving, overheating can be a problem when you are using flux with easyflow or copper-brass joins though
Call me crazy but I like to swage in the direction of flow 😉
A small roll of fiberglass cloth works great as a heat shield when you have to torch next to something that can melt.
Saw the Alco/Emerson sight glass. I have them leak after leak test and vacuum. I will always replace the gasket on a install. I can usually get the gasket on its own or with a new indicator.
They're really easy to put in but we had a couple of hiccups when they were first rolling out here.
Cool
Oh, and please make life easier for the next tech, put a nut on the dowl rod above the evap, makes those panels come off MUCH easier. Tech tip
RLS works awesome in the Ptrap scenario.
For brazing like that, get yourself some metallized insulation board. Some actually has real metal (or you can put a piece on it). That'll both spread the heat splash, and keep the stuff behind the pipe cool.
Good stuff
Have you ever tried the Cpt. Hook torch tip? Nice even heat and easy to keep heat off things.
Here we just call the rotalock valves. Also , the Head pressure control valves arent used in EU. We just have a pressure controlled fan instead.
@7:05 I wonder if that would be a good place to use those crimp style fittings you demo'd a while back. No need for heat in such a tight place.
I have the same issue with my hilmor pump swedge, but only on older 3/8.
Good work using nitro durning brazing top 5 percent of the trade
Jeeeeez i hate the look of softpipe line set.
I know it must have really hurt to leave the attic that way ♥️💯 i feel your pain haha
I feel like this would have been a great example of when zoomlok fittings make the trade smarter.
A word of caution regarding the amount of solder you use. It may not only an issue about using more solder costing you (which I guess is pennies at most), what may happen is under some conditions that an excess amount of solder wicks through the joint and may either bead up on the inside, possibly causing turbulence in the pipe, or may cause beads of solder to float through the pipes as well. For the latter the dryer filter may take care of, but I am not entirely sure where in the system you place it. The turbulence can cause different issues, from making noise to actually seriously impacting the amount of flow you get through the pipe and possible cavitation issues.
There’s really no sense in using that much solder. I prob could have borderline done that entire install with a single stick. Also, no need to glow the copper that bright of red. Just pull the flame back some. Although, everyone does it differently.
@@nebraskaman8247 like he said “it’s my company I can do what I want.”
i dont agree. Using enough solder and heat is GOOD: It makes more secure solderings and if in difficult spot it flows better. Yes if he fills the pipe with solder you are right about turbulense, but that isnt the case... Good Soldering job
@@nebraskaman8247 Well, I might add, that "glowing" the copper may be relevant. Although I think especially with copper you have to be carfull, as it can be damaging to the copper (although I dont see this being anywhere close.
When I learned soldering decades ago, besides electronic soldering which was what I did mainly, for different reasons I learned quite some metalworking and also soldering with that. First of all, in German we differenciated between "Weichlöten" which would translate into soft soldering, and "Hartlöten" which translates into hard soldering, but actually would be referred to as brazing or silver soldering (depending on the solder type) by most english speaking people. "soft soldering" would be the kind of soldering comparable to electronics, you might use for plumbing for example or in some roofing applications with tin or lead covers. And for brazing we were taught to actually to get the material "chery red" and the material was then supposed to have enough heat to melt the solder, so we were supposed to not even hold our brazing rod or silver solder into the flame. (At least that was what we were told, I think the point was that the material should be hot enough and not just melting the solder, as otherwise the material wouldn´t take any solder). But then we never used that with straight copper or even any pipe materials, so it sure is not completely comparable.
I guess there are several schools of thaught or teaching methods for this, as you said, everyone does it differently. For all I think the point is what Chris pointed out several times, get the material hot enough so the solder will flow in between properly and not just bead up on the surface.
I like those smart evaps. Looks much easier to install.
Yeah they are pretty easy
Compared to some of the dilapidated antique equipment your customers have you work on, that evaporator looked brand new.
Make sure the electrician cleans up his mess lol
Missing you brother man you should be at the Symposium
I'm bummed I wasn't able to go
I like your methodology,be kind one to the others.🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Have you ever used zoomlock hvac fittings?
When brazing inside FCBs that have water, CO2 and syrup lines it's always smart to lay down wet rags.
Have you thought of using compression fittings. Used them on hydraulic fittings on aircraft.
That thing split!
I will discuss this on my Livestream this evening 1/23/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) on RUclips come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/MkAGiy6pwh8/видео.html
What's with the fans in front of the evap fans? Circulate air better?
a poor mans glycol unit it blows cold air on the beer tap lines
I was hoping to see this in the downscroll, thank you.
Pretty green tech here. The oxyacetylene ratio I was taught to use barely leaves any time between brazing heat and melting the copper. Chris had his torch on there for a pretty long time. Anyone have any tips on that?
what is the problem with cork tape? Can't beat it on txv bulbs.
What are those things hanging down in front of the evaporator coil fan motors? Those round black plastic things hanging down from the ceiling?
Those should be fans that suck cold evap air through the attached ducts, which enter a wall cavity where the air cools the beer lines----between the cooler and the beer taps (dispensing tower). This method is known as "short draw" (beer lines under 25 ft.). The other method for cooling longer beer lines is the installation of a glycol chiller, AKA Power Pack and is known as "long draw," where the beer lines run perhaps between floors and other uncooled areas and are bundled together with cooling, glycol lines, which constantly circulate between the glycol chiller and the dispensing tower. 🍺
Dam, I really want a Lagunitas after watching this
Just curious how the licensing works where you are regarding low voltage (
What's with the vented blowers in front of the evaporator?
What are those small blowers in front of the evaporator fans
Didn't see a good shot of the final drain config, what did you decide to do? Also, what would you have done if you had to use those blowers for directed tap line cooling but were more free with layout? Set them outside the direct exhaust path of the evaporator fans and feed from the side of the air stream? Are the lines encased by that flex tube somehow, analogous to glycol tap lines?
When you realize you have taught something, you feel compelled to repeat yourself.
Hey, those that didn't get it, but want to learn it, can go back a bit and watch that part of the video again.
Fire extinguisher @14:10? I wouldn't be without one
Milwaukee pex expander also rotates, Milwaukee should develop a copper staging tool.
Pex A - right?
What are the things mounted in front of the fans?
its a poor mans glycol unit that blows cold air on the beer lines as it goes to the bar
@@HVACRVIDEOS interesting…. Thank you for the reply!
What up with cover don't fit?
What are the black components in front of the evap coil?
Like how you braze your joints.perfection is everything and done right.I have question.your silfos brazing rod is it 6% or 15% silver 🤔
What are the two blowers that sit in front of the evap fans for?
Single evap in a long box, helps to overcome that and direct some airflow to the other side for a more even temperature
They are to cool the beer lines as they run out of the box, it's a poor man's glycol unit
I will discuss this on my Livestream this evening 1/23/23 @ 5:PM (pacific) on RUclips come over and check it out ruclips.net/video/MkAGiy6pwh8/видео.html
And the reason for the P trap on the suction line and squirrel cage fans in front of the evap fans?
it helps trapped oil return back to the compressor
Probably to catch oil on the bottom of the P escaping from above
If I worked for you, I feel like I would have to PAY YOU for teaching 😂😂