I keep forgetting! Better late than never 🤷🏼♂ *Wera 056490 Tool-Check Plus Bit Ratchet Set with Sockets - Metric* - amzn.to/46OZLh6 *The Wera Store* - amzn.to/3tAZno4
mostly what i run into is fan blower controllers and radiator fan controllers aftermarket will run the fans on hi with veh off ,but when veh running voltage and current goes up they will have current limitng in them and they go off and on, get the factory one and everything is fine. so when you swap that controller check it with veh running and blower on hi, if you dont check it that way you will be back at it again, eric have you ran into that?
I remember in my very first semester auto shop class. Our Teacher was talking about the ignition system at the time, points and condenser. "Just because your condenser is NEW, doesn't mean that it is good." One of the things that I learned from him that has helped me out even more Today than back then in the 70's.
On all major jobs I only use OEM parts. I did a timing job on a 2005 Ford F-150 last week that had 2 failed aftermarket timing jobs done on it. It's sad that there's no QC on parts anymore. Thanks!@@Pointlesshandle48
Hey eric, I work down here in south florida at a valvoline I just got promoted to a store manger and have my own shop the other day I had an older gentelmen bring his mini van in for an oil change and noticed his newyork plate and we got to tallking he was telling about a shop he goes to in newyork and how they have a youtube channel that gets lots of views and i said "south main auto?" He was telling me how back in the day your father would work on his police cruiser. It was really cool getting to meet him and hear his stories about your shop and he was letting me know you recomend valvoline we really try to do good work! I take a lot of insperation from your videos!
I have actually come to appreciate used parts in the last few years. With the increasing cost of parts and the "older" nature of my cars, they seem to fit the bill.
Yup. I even have gone as far as using used camshafts from pick your parts for the 3.6 Dodge. They are $400 new per camshaft. $15 used. Aftermarket are questionable.
Happens to me too. You get a $2000+ circuit card with all the PASSED, TESTED, INSPECTED stickers, you plug it in and either it doesn't plain doesn't work or it brings the whole phone system down as well.
Also nuttin' like dead computer motherboards fresh from the factory. Went through that with a batch of them in a computer store. Apparently no Quality Control whatsoever on an entire batch. We got about 6 DOAs, and the distributor was going nuts as well.
I used to fix copy machines and replaced boards semi regularly as an area that gets good lightning in the summertime. We used a third party to recon boards, and I'd get a bad one pretty regularly. I always doubted they paid those guys anything worth anything.
Stuff we received from all the auto parts jobbers is hit or miss. It really sucks. I think all the old timers that worked for these companies during Covid retired or found a new job and all the new people just don’t give a damn about quality control !!
@@nicholasr7987 A friend of a friend (no kidding) is married to a Chinese woman, allowing the FOAF to contract companies in China to build parts to specs. What I learned is that contracts are even more literal in China than in the West: if no quality control or testing is specified, none is done. Tab A goes in slot B and the product is ready to ship.
Quality control after covid has really gone downhill, even cars are no longer built like they used to. Compare a 2023 Toyota Camry with the same 2018 Camry, and you'll notice a difference in the build quality of the same generation car.
Great video I am retired now but still do a lot of the electrical and fiddling jobs for the guy that bought my shop. Just ran into this on a clock spring on a ford truck that the cruise did not work at times. I am 76 years old and still when this happens first thing I think I screwed up on the diagnosis. It turned out after double checking I was right and the new clock spring was no good. Over 50 years as an auto mechanic and I still get new parts out of the box that are no good. Thanks for posting this video.
There's a warranty for a reason. Often when I ask someone if a certain part is good, they'll say it is new. My reply will always be "I didn't ask if it was new. I specifically asked if it was good."
Went through 4 new starter relays for my 89 Bronco, ended up going to Tractor Supply and getting one for a 8N tractor, made in USA too. It's still working just fine!
This is me at my shop; I work in a 3 bay shop. two of the bays are for express services like your oil change. The third bay where I typically work is the mechanic side. I will diagnose the issue most of the time like Eric does; but sometimes I get that one customer that has already "diagnosed" the issue and just wants me to play swap-tronics. I love it when I diagnose something and customer agrees to the repair, I get it done and the system works as intended again.
@@mattmanyam You electronics guys and all your magic pixie wrangling! I'll still bet that twenty cents more of whatever voodoo is going on that cranks out so much heat would make those things bulletproof! Now let me get back to my old man grumbling!
Echlin/Standard used to be manufactured here in CT, and they were good aftermarket parts. Factory and corporate offices are long gone. Just like the parts quality, apparently.
@@mimelio Don't get carried away , I've had a few DOA ignition modules for Fords back then . Brown ones , blue ones , even ones with fancy screws . LOL Remember having to press the distributor shaft out of a bronco II because the pick up plastic melted to the ignition module ? Three different special tools to replace igniton modules , ford really loved us . Someone finally started selling referbed Distributors for those .
Absolutely. Names that you used to be able to trust - like Moog is now the same trash as everyone else. I buy OEM whenever possible. Problem with the junkyard is many of those are now there BECAUSE of these trash aftermarket parts.
I work part time (semi retired from same job) at a 'mom & pop' auto parts and I've been selling parts at various stores for approx 45 years. The quality of parts is NOT what it used to be but the prices have continued to rise.
Lol Mobile mechanic here, the wera kit for the mechanic with on the go lifestyle is legit. I take mine everywhere and it has served me really well under the dash in those cramped spaces.
Ran into this when I worked in auto racing. Long story short - the best electronic ignition company in the business decided to take more profit and laid off a bunch of their QC workers. So when you'd get the high rpm misfires that could destroy an engine, you bought a new box. But before you installed it, at the next race you'd go to their tech trailer and trade it for a rebuilt one. Those always worked great since somebody competent had actually tested/repaired it and made sure that it functioned correctly.
I remember when those resistors looked like a small spring with wires attached. Of course, I also remember when heat/ac positions were controlled by levers with cables attached to them and blower motors would SCREAM for months, if not years, when the bearings were going bad!
We are still going through all of the crap manufactured during covid still, Car/truck Batteries were a huge issue made 2019-2021 with tons of failures here.
Yea I'm so tired of junk parts, it's been getting progressively worse but this past year has just been terrible. It doesn't matter what kind of part it is or how much it costs it seems like at least 1/4 of the parts we get don't work, don't fit properly, or fail within weeks of installing them.
@@chrisyboy219 Yea quality on everything across the board from vehicles to appliances to parts and even materials has just gone in the toilet. Almost nothing is made to repair nor is cost effective to repair anymore either, when it breaks you throw it away and get another one.
Mr. O, your mantra of, "Test, don't guess" rings true, again. Admirable fix, Eric. It's funny how your mantra keeps popping up in my head when I'm fixing stuff. I owe you royalties for that one. 😊
I once got an older car and noticed the rear window defogger wouldn't work. I figured it might be the original fuse which could have had some internal corrosion or something because it wasn't blown. I got a fuse of the appropriate amperage at the auto part store, which kind of fixed it but it wasn't staying on as long as it was supposed to. Eventually it turned out the brand new Chinese made fuse I got at the part store. It got replaced with a German made one, defogger worked perfectly fine for as long as I had the store.
“Parts is parts” Quality is always desired but few are willing to pay for it. The time you wasted on the defective part was more expensive than the part, but the factory has determined that making two parts and only getting to profit from one of them is a price that was better spent than making a single one of higher quality with tighter quality controls. Their savings come at your and your customer’s expense. There is little choice in most aftermarket parts, but when we can, we are better off making the appropriate quality our priority.
Yes yes in 47 years of wrenching we found out what BWD parts stand for Bad when delivered. As a fellow technician I always enjoy your videos and honesty.
Watch when NAPA restocks that bad resistor and the next purchaser who doesn't troubleshoot, ends up putting in the new blower motor which is also a restocked part which also doesn't work, so they can just tear their hair out. Eric should have bought the whole scrapped Caravan and saved multiple trips to to pick & pull.
I just had that same issue with a new battery that was sold from a parts store. It wouldn't start the car so when I took it back and had it tested it had bad cells. The kicker is the clerk was very upset when I insisted he load test the replacement battery which was also bad. It took 3 tries before they found a good one with a current month sticker. I wonder how many folks would have just paid for another one. It's sad that too many times the "new" parts are often just a bad as the old one.
My local junkyard removing it yourself is the only option, and it's usually at least a half mile walk to get whatever I need only to find out some other jackass broke whatever I need. Either that or they just waste everyone's time and straight up lie about verifying they have something.
Back in the day, you would walk into any one of them and there were plenty all over the city, ask for what you need and they knew somebody to get on the horn with and double check before they sent you over there. Radio system of some sort, really cut down on my wasted time factor and somebody had one for certain. You just go over there and ask again, no finders fee, just a neat system that has zero people playing it today. How does one choose the correct place out of a dozen yards? You just can't. I tried to see about a good used engine and he's on google wanting to bring one in from half way across the nation and give me a ball park figure on it. I was expecting to find a place local that specialized in my make/model and they had it on the shelf already waiting for me. Because back in the day everybody knew what everybody else had and they didn't mind sharing that information. And I've bought decent used engines sitting on the shelf already more than once, and with minor issues they all turned out good in the end. It's a different world today, none of that easy road stuff finding parts.
@@itsjustmetomc4848 Yard I go to started a new thing where they put fresh vehicles in a premium cage for around a month. While it's in the cage you get to pay double, and have to pull an entire subsystem. Want a door switch? you're taking the whole door and paying 2x for it. It's almost pointless now.
Here in my part of Canada the land is so expensive that they got rid of all the yards and build condos for yuppies on ‘em. Now I need to go 140 miles to get to the nearest one, instead of 14
Love your channel and troubleshooting ability. You use test equipment better than most electricians and many engineers I know. Great tools and the knowledge on how to use them.
Squarel cage blowers Require a Wall Next to cage to Cause the air flow Were Blade style Fans Create A Vortex from behind and push forward i have noticed Lot of people think Blower cages work outside the box but they dont even on Cage style floor blowers there in a Box to direct the flow great Point Eric O 12:40 @South Main Auto Repair LLC
I just replaced a blower motor 2 weeks ago on my own car. The "new" part didn't fit - plastic body too thick. So I kept the original housing and used the new motor. Worked, but a huge PITA and waste of time.
Bad new parts are happening more and more these days. I just bought 3 new coolant temperature sensors in a row from O'Reilly's. All were shorted to ground and made the gauge read full hot. Bought a $65 temp sensor from the Chevy dealer and it works perfect.
I recently changed the same part in my sister’s 2008 Malibu, first resistor I got brand new from Auto Zone was defective, so I went to Napa and that one was defective, ended up going to junk yard where you can pull your own parts off junk cars, and that one works fine
Great how -to video! I have come across bad new parts many times working in Industrial Maintenance. Photo-eyes, limit switches, proximity switches, electric clutches. Nothing more frustrating than installing a bad NEW part. 😂
Felt that pain many times. I started as a troubleshooter at Michelin in '88, things were a lot more reliable back then. I moved to BMW in '95, and it seemed like parts just got worse year after year.
11:52. NEW. Never Ever Worked. Love it. NAPA, Advance, O'Reilly? Dorman parts? B.O.D. Broke On Delivery. It's a crap shoot. Chinesium. Like you said: Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. Thanks again SMA. Another good vid to go with coffee.
I totally understand the frustration of defective new parts after 55+ years in the electronics repair business. Now so many parts are counterfeit crap that you can't trust many suppliers.
Good morning Mr Eric hope y'all have a great day, I just repaired an 05 Dodge truck, diesel, ECM threw codes for everything (low voltage) so the guy put 2 new batteries in 350 bucks,but nothing changed, took a look, needed new battery terminals plus grounds were beyond loose, repaired that, the professional battery shop installed the batteries, and did piss pour work, it is just horrible to think business could do such bad work
It’s getting to the point where all of your “house brand” parts house parts are likely coming out of the same Chinese factories with just a different box, and the factories have a 50/40/10 failure rate: half the parts they make are rejected before they even make it out of the factory, 40% either are rejects that slipped through “quality control” or fail within the first year or two of operation, and then you have the 10% of parts that are ACTUALLY good and will last for years without failure.
Remember the Chinese will build you all the quality the customer requests. They build spacecraft and high-tech fighters, but if spec your parts to the lowest bid and cheapest quality, well, they'll build that and laugh while counting the capitalist pig's money in the CCP's bank accounts.
I needed a new aux vac pump for my truck so I bought the $35 ebay junk rather than the $135 Dorman junk that probably comes from the same place. It didn't work right out of the box, had to pop the lid off and work the pressure switch back and forth several times to get it to start turning off automatically like it's supposed to.
I am rebuilding a 69 Camaro for a friend and i try and buy good parts,but the brackets and things never fit quite right,body parts,some new electronic/electrical parts bad out of the box.. frustrating and 2x the work.
I've been in the vehicle fixin' biz for 50 years. For 40 of those years I would suggest to replace some items pre-emptively for customers about to make long road trips. In the last few years I have FAR too many cases of doing this and they would have a problem on the road with the new parts. I also have been using way more used parts than I ever have.
So the other day James Condon did a video where he was doing a few small repairs on a Ford F-150 and he had a bad blower motor resistor that was bad out of the box as well. His was a Motorcraft. He mainly does small engines, mostly generators. As a retired Navy Diesel Mechanic I appreciate both of these channels.
❤❤ Thanks for sharing this video especially after my partsgeek return experience ... learned my lesson and my clip on tool kit for good canics on the go...you rock...as always...
We use those vent motors to make Halloween props. Its wild seeing it being used for its intended purpose in the wild. BTW, they are actually pretty water resistant.
Had similar problem last month 2 sets of Dorman knock sensor in 2003 Chevy 5.3 then went OEM went threw 2 more sets and did use new harness torque to spec still very little out put went with standard and all good I did go back and watch your video on using scope which was helpful
Hey Eric! Be glad the blower motor did not need to be changed! a real pain in the downloader. Just had to do one on my 2006 Grand Caravan. The mounting bolt for the blower motor cover right up against the firewall is vitually impossible to get to. Had to take a hammer to it to break it out, and then fix it with JB Weld and reinstall. (without that damn bolt that a robot HAD to istall).
I can attest to this - I replaced the blower motor in my old Tahoe with a unit from NAPA (nota sponser), and the thing died in less than 2 years. It was rebranded cheap chinesium. Thankfully, I kept the original (It started working again mid-removal, I shoulda just left it in), so I cleaned it out as best I could, sprayed inside it on the brushes with some DeOxit D5, and swapped it back in; the replacement was full of carbon grindings and had no brushes left.
Junk right out of the box... I remember when that was VERY rare. (50 odd years ago) ;) Follow the evidence - Where ever it leads. Another winner Mr. O!
00:37 - S'truth. Even disconnecting the bat'ry immediately before inspection will cause an inspection fail, at least in NJ, because the emmissions-related data will be erased. I had to disconnect my Honda Accord's battery the day before inspection due to a power seat problem. I even looked up and performed the driving cycle, but after waiting in the inspection line, I still failed due to insufficient data. Pro tip: I learned that if your CEL blinks twice (at least for this Honda) upon startup, it ain't ready.
What we have here is a failure to communicate. Out here in outer space or in the box! I Enjoy the simple way Eric can explain how the world really works!
Boy am I glad I live in Florida. I saw your method of bearing removal on a Subaru. Mine just came out , but I ordered the parts on line. They sent me three front bearings, and one rear. While replacing the front ones I found the ball joints are bad also. I will have to wait for next months S.S. check before I can do them oh by the way I am 71years old, and a good mechanic is worth every dime they charge if you can afford it.
I replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses on my 1995 Toyota Pickup. Believe it or no, it still had the original lower hose which was finally giving up the ghost. That was about 6 months ago and I just today noticed coolant puddling on the timing chain cover. The NEW upper hose is leaking. Coolant is oozing out of the ends of the hose. It is actually leaking from the inside out. The cut end of the hose is turning coolant red! Just simple radiator hoses!!
I just went through the same "bad parts" with a blower motor resistor from Auto Zone. Duralast parts resistor blew the full speed circuit in 2 seconds on 2 parts. I gave up on Auto Zone and went OEM and the OEM resistor worked. By the way a common reason the resistor blows is low air flow because the cabin filter is really dirty/clogged. ( I changed the filter first before the Duralast fiasco )
Good electronic etiquette as always.....a car is just techie gear w/ wheels ! [ Well, there is all that knuckle bustin' for us knuckle-draggin'-neanderthals ] Nice o-scope to see the PWM stuff that controls the fan speed ! Easy job too....didn't have to mess w/ the blower....just 2 screws & you're in & outta there in no time !!!!
Working on an 01 LHS. Blower speed module, which is also responsible for shutting the blower off with automatic climate control, took a powder. When they fail, the blower will run on hi any time the key is on. No control. Various aftermarket suppliers still offer 'new' parts at nearly $200 but don't last. I know what you're thinking, the motor is over amping. Not so in this case. Water intrusion was the problem. Even after that was fixed, the new part wouldn't last but a couple weeks. A quick trip to a local pick a part, snagged 2 OE used modules for $20.00. 7 months later, it still works as designed. And the customer has a spare just in case.
Working on vehicles these days requires one to be an auto technician and an electronic technician all in one ! Your the best of both Mr O !! I had an 09 Ford Flex that required the Fonzarelli on the top of the dash above the glove box to sometimes get the fan running. After a few months of that I finally got a Ford part and replaced it !!! Got lucky and nothing else was wrong with the electronics. So being a parts changer worked. As always “ Thanks for posting” !!!!
Some heater resistors have thermal fuses. A motor drawing too much current will take them out, sometimes in a matter of minutes, sometimes after a few hours. When the resistor is a ten minute job but the fan motor is a whole dashboard removal eight hour remove 60+ torx screws job and you don’t know what the normal current draw for the fan is you always change the resistor first…then learn how to replace the thermal fuse.
I had the variable resistor on my 2004 F150 go up after 19 years. I replaced it with an aftermarket part. That lasted one week. I then ordered the OEM one. Its still working fine. I have found NAPA parts to generally be really good. Other after market, not so much.
I replaced this same resistor board in a different Chrysler, I think I just got one on amazon, and it worked, and its been about a year now, so we got our moneys worth. An older version of this, I just went the junk yard. I grabbed 3 of them. 1 was DOA, the other two worked. For a Ford, which was only about 5 years old, I replaced the board with a new one, first one was mostly DOA, but the second new one worked. Junk yard and new parts have the same odds of working anymore. Junk yard actually might be higher reliability now that new parts are even worse than when I was replacing all of these.
Have an auto HVAC setup in my Silverado. Bought an expensive Dormant when the original failed. Never worked right. Picked up a tested used control off eBay. Works perfectly.
I think the more you restrict airflow on a centrifugal fan, the auto interior blower, the lower the amps, like a furnace with a dirty filter will have lower amps. Propeller fans like on an AC unit are the opposite, the blocked off fan draws higher amps.
Is there not a difference where the restriction is in the duct, for example the intake vs exhaust side of fan? Intake to fan I can see lower amps, exhaust side higher amps.
I keep forgetting! Better late than never 🤷🏼♂
*Wera 056490 Tool-Check Plus Bit Ratchet Set with Sockets - Metric* - amzn.to/46OZLh6
*The Wera Store* - amzn.to/3tAZno4
mostly what i run into is fan blower controllers and radiator fan controllers aftermarket will run the fans on hi with veh off ,but when veh running voltage and current goes up they will have current limitng in them and they go off and on, get the factory one and everything is fine. so when you swap that controller check it with veh running and blower on hi, if you dont check it that way you will be back at it again, eric have you ran into that?
Much appreciated! Thanks!
Looks to be a handy little kit
That looks like a handy little set. Something I would use for sure! Appreciate it thank you...
I bought mine a long time ago when you showed it off it's awesome for my motorcycle toolkit
Love that some folks still know the term “give it the fonzarelli” 😂😂keep up the good work, Mr O!
And i thought that only worked on juke boxes :-D
AAAAAYYYYYYEEEEEEE!! 👍
@@zx8401ztv And Pinky Tuscadero.
You should have given it to Richie Cunningham😅
❤ Mr. O showing his age in TV time.
I remember in my very first semester auto shop class. Our Teacher was talking about the ignition system at the time, points and condenser. "Just because your condenser is NEW, doesn't mean that it is good." One of the things that I learned from him that has helped me out even more Today than back then in the 70's.
A mechanic’s worst frustration is a bad new part! Thanks Eric!!!
Especially if it's a super laborious job to replace. At least this one was easy
Even worse when you don’t find out it’s junk until it’s been on the car a month and then you gotta replace it again.
On all major jobs I only use OEM parts. I did a timing job on a 2005 Ford F-150 last week that had 2 failed aftermarket timing jobs done on it. It's sad that there's no QC on parts anymore. Thanks!@@Pointlesshandle48
Exactly!@@cheesecurd100s
2 DEF starters from the auto parts store.
1 looked like it was a return and the other looked new but still didn't work.
Hey eric, I work down here in south florida at a valvoline I just got promoted to a store manger and have my own shop the other day I had an older gentelmen bring his mini van in for an oil change and noticed his newyork plate and we got to tallking he was telling about a shop he goes to in newyork and how they have a youtube channel that gets lots of views and i said "south main auto?"
He was telling me how back in the day your father would work on his police cruiser. It was really cool getting to meet him and hear his stories about your shop and he was letting me know you recomend valvoline we really try to do good work! I take a lot of insperation from your videos!
I have actually come to appreciate used parts in the last few years. With the increasing cost of parts and the "older" nature of my cars, they seem to fit the bill.
I dunno, if it’s an electric or a plastic part chances are it also failed in the same way in the junker.
Yup. I even have gone as far as using used camshafts from pick your parts for the 3.6 Dodge. They are $400 new per camshaft. $15 used. Aftermarket are questionable.
Same. Pick n' pulls are great places...if you can get there before the "resellers" pick the cars clean.
In my experience, used OEM parts are as reliable as new aftermarket stuff. Maybe more so.
The junker may be in the junk yard for a different reason.@@for2utube
Brilliant diagnosis Eric O. Faulty from new.
Happens to me too. You get a $2000+ circuit card with all the PASSED, TESTED, INSPECTED stickers, you plug it in and either it doesn't plain doesn't work or it brings the whole phone system down as well.
Also nuttin' like dead computer motherboards fresh from the factory. Went through that with a batch of them in a computer store. Apparently no Quality Control whatsoever on an entire batch. We got about 6 DOAs, and the distributor was going nuts as well.
New parts are my greatest fears!
I used to fix copy machines and replaced boards semi regularly as an area that gets good lightning in the summertime. We used a third party to recon boards, and I'd get a bad one pretty regularly. I always doubted they paid those guys anything worth anything.
Ouch! And of course, you get blamed!
@@MalleusSemperVictor If some boards were from Hytec I feel your pain ;)
Stuff we received from all the auto parts jobbers is hit or miss. It really sucks.
I think all the old timers that worked for these companies during Covid retired or found a new job and all the new people just don’t give a damn about quality control !!
People on the line can't care if the bosses don't, or the parts were specced too cheap to even survive manufacturing.
China says...xigpigewah. which translated to "just send it"
Quality control starts from the top.
@@nicholasr7987 A friend of a friend (no kidding) is married to a Chinese woman, allowing the FOAF to contract companies in China to build parts to specs. What I learned is that contracts are even more literal in China than in the West: if no quality control or testing is specified, none is done. Tab A goes in slot B and the product is ready to ship.
Quality control after covid has really gone downhill, even cars are no longer built like they used to. Compare a 2023 Toyota Camry with the same 2018 Camry, and you'll notice a difference in the build quality of the same generation car.
Great video I am retired now but still do a lot of the electrical and fiddling jobs for the guy that bought my shop. Just ran into this on a clock spring on a ford truck that the cruise did not work at times. I am 76 years old and still when this happens first thing I think I screwed up on the diagnosis. It turned out after double checking I was right and the new clock spring was no good. Over 50 years as an auto mechanic and I still get new parts out of the box that are no good. Thanks for posting this video.
A long time ago someone told me; "just because it's new doesn't mean it's good"....
It was Kieth wasn't it
I swear I use that saying all the time
It was Eric himself!
There's a warranty for a reason. Often when I ask someone if a certain part is good, they'll say it is new. My reply will always be "I didn't ask if it was new. I specifically asked if it was good."
Fact: watching SMA does not disappoint.😊
Went through 4 new starter relays for my 89 Bronco, ended up going to Tractor Supply and getting one for a 8N tractor, made in USA too. It's still working just fine!
"I'm going to make sure there's no personal things in here" had me dead knowing the possibilities.
This is me at my shop; I work in a 3 bay shop. two of the bays are for express services like your oil change. The third bay where I typically work is the mechanic side. I will diagnose the issue most of the time like Eric does; but sometimes I get that one customer that has already "diagnosed" the issue and just wants me to play swap-tronics. I love it when I diagnose something and customer agrees to the repair, I get it done and the system works as intended again.
The man knows his stuff.
A resistor is the kind of part that for twenty cents more they could make them impossible to break.
But CEOs would have to take a pay cut, and live on $10 million a year. Such a burden!
Too bad it's not actually a resistor, anymore. Solid-state mosfet.
@@mattmanyam You electronics guys and all your magic pixie wrangling! I'll still bet that twenty cents more of whatever voodoo is going on that cranks out so much heat would make those things bulletproof! Now let me get back to my old man grumbling!
@@mattmanyam yep... you tend to lose all speeds when it fails. With the good old resistor you usually still had full speed available.
@@mattmanyamyeah was going to say you cannot convert a duty cycle signal into a high current supply using a resistor.
Spinning up the blower motor while holding it.....Sofa King funny
Echlin/Standard used to be manufactured here in CT, and they were good aftermarket parts. Factory and corporate offices are long gone. Just like the parts quality, apparently.
The suits got their move it offshore bonuses and retired rich.
Here in CT I remember that! Few times it was actually an OEM part right out of the Echlin/Standard box!
thats the way they do it. @@davesaunders7080
Back in the 80's & 90's NAPA Echlin products exceeded OEM quality.
@@mimelio Don't get carried away , I've had a few DOA ignition modules for Fords back then . Brown ones , blue ones , even ones with fancy screws . LOL Remember having to press the distributor shaft out of a bronco II because the pick up plastic melted to the ignition module ? Three different special tools to replace igniton modules , ford really loved us . Someone finally started selling referbed Distributors for those .
Eric, here we go again, learning new stuff. Now comes the hard part, recalling stuff!!!! Thanks guy for sharing. If you can do it, we can watch!!
I'm dead " we are going to do this off video because something is gonna have to break. 😅😅
Absolutely. Names that you used to be able to trust - like Moog is now the same trash as everyone else. I buy OEM whenever possible. Problem with the junkyard is many of those are now there BECAUSE of these trash aftermarket parts.
I work part time (semi retired from same job) at a 'mom & pop' auto parts and I've been selling parts at various stores for approx 45 years.
The quality of parts is NOT what it used to be but the prices have continued to rise.
BRRRRDDDT… AHhhhh “She got me boys”!!!! 😂😂😂😂 I felt that, LOL Thanks Eric, I needed that today.
At my shop, we have been getting a lot of junk after market parts from all the parts stores. If new is not available we get used.
Lol Mobile mechanic here, the wera kit for the mechanic with on the go lifestyle is legit. I take mine everywhere and it has served me really well under the dash in those cramped spaces.
Great demonstration. I absolutely would have been second guessing myself with the faulty new part.
Oh that would have been a total shotgun at most shops. Thx Eric. Your deductive reasoning and experience helps me so much.
Shotgun??!
"Mr. Reed, energize the forwards Parts Cannons and stand by!" -- Capt. Archer, "Enterprise", the Lost Auto Repair Episode
Always sad when used Old parts are better then new Parts or even Aftermarket junk Eric O 0:14 @South Main Auto Repair LLC
I would be more than happy to bring my car to your shop, its a huge stress reliever to know that you know a good mechanic!
I can't keep up with you, but I'm still hooked. Keeping me amazed. Thanks again, O!!!
Ran into this when I worked in auto racing. Long story short - the best electronic ignition company in the business decided to take more profit and laid off a bunch of their QC workers. So when you'd get the high rpm misfires that could destroy an engine, you bought a new box. But before you installed it, at the next race you'd go to their tech trailer and trade it for a rebuilt one. Those always worked great since somebody competent had actually tested/repaired it and made sure that it functioned correctly.
I remember when those resistors looked like a small spring with wires attached. Of course, I also remember when heat/ac positions were controlled by levers with cables attached to them and blower motors would SCREAM for months, if not years, when the bearings were going bad!
😂 just kick it, it will quiet down
We are still going through all of the crap manufactured during covid still, Car/truck Batteries were a huge issue made 2019-2021 with tons of failures here.
Yea I'm so tired of junk parts, it's been getting progressively worse but this past year has just been terrible. It doesn't matter what kind of part it is or how much it costs it seems like at least 1/4 of the parts we get don't work, don't fit properly, or fail within weeks of installing them.
I'm finding the same, and not just with car parts either. It's great when 50 percent of a job is diagnosing and returning the 'new' part.
@@chrisyboy219 Yea quality on everything across the board from vehicles to appliances to parts and even materials has just gone in the toilet.
Almost nothing is made to repair nor is cost effective to repair anymore either, when it breaks you throw it away and get another one.
Mr. O, your mantra of, "Test, don't guess" rings true, again. Admirable fix, Eric. It's funny how your mantra keeps popping up in my head when I'm fixing stuff. I owe you royalties for that one. 😊
you are the G O A T
I once got an older car and noticed the rear window defogger wouldn't work. I figured it might be the original fuse which could have had some internal corrosion or something because it wasn't blown. I got a fuse of the appropriate amperage at the auto part store, which kind of fixed it but it wasn't staying on as long as it was supposed to. Eventually it turned out the brand new Chinese made fuse I got at the part store. It got replaced with a German made one, defogger worked perfectly fine for as long as I had the store.
Watched. Again. The. Series. On 2015 Cadilliac engine. Replacement. Loved. That. Car. You made very. Interesting. Thanks
“Parts is parts”
Quality is always desired but few are willing to pay for it. The time you wasted on the defective part was more expensive than the part, but the factory has determined that making two parts and only getting to profit from one of them is a price that was better spent than making a single one of higher quality with tighter quality controls. Their savings come at your and your customer’s expense. There is little choice in most aftermarket parts, but when we can, we are better off making the appropriate quality our priority.
But a part that is broken right out of the box is an outrage. No matter where abouts in china it was made, it should still function the very least.
Eric, you are the master of humorous automotive commentary. Love it sir.
Yes yes in 47 years of wrenching we found out what BWD parts stand for Bad when delivered. As a fellow technician I always enjoy your videos and honesty.
Sometimes knowing WHERE the part goes is more important than what's broken. Nice job Mr. O
Watch when NAPA restocks that bad resistor and the next purchaser who doesn't troubleshoot, ends up putting in the new blower motor which is also a restocked part which also doesn't work, so they can just tear their hair out. Eric should have bought the whole scrapped Caravan and saved multiple trips to to pick & pull.
Unbelievable !!!!!! How do these Businesses stay afloat??? Where is the QUALITY CONTROL????? Good Job E O...
I just had that same issue with a new battery that was sold from a parts store. It wouldn't start the car so when I took it back and had it tested it had bad cells. The kicker is the clerk was very upset when I insisted he load test the replacement battery which was also bad. It took 3 tries before they found a good one with a current month sticker. I wonder how many folks would have just paid for another one. It's sad that too many times the "new" parts are often just a bad as the old one.
I test EVERY battery I buy from Oreilly. They’re most always good, but the one in 25 that is weak or straight up bad makes the extra step worthwhile.
Sounds like they are cleaning up the core batteries and putting them on the shelf for resale.
Salvage yards were so fun back in the day when you could walk out and pull your own parts. Not available in my area anymore!
Here in Arizona we can still pull the part but many of the salvage yards can be very proud of their parts and it's often cheaper to buy it new.
My local junkyard removing it yourself is the only option, and it's usually at least a half mile walk to get whatever I need only to find out some other jackass broke whatever I need. Either that or they just waste everyone's time and straight up lie about verifying they have something.
Back in the day, you would walk into any one of them and there were plenty all over the city, ask for what you need and they knew somebody to get on the horn with and double check before they sent you over there. Radio system of some sort, really cut down on my wasted time factor and somebody had one for certain. You just go over there and ask again, no finders fee, just a neat system that has zero people playing it today. How does one choose the correct place out of a dozen yards? You just can't. I tried to see about a good used engine and he's on google wanting to bring one in from half way across the nation and give me a ball park figure on it. I was expecting to find a place local that specialized in my make/model and they had it on the shelf already waiting for me. Because back in the day everybody knew what everybody else had and they didn't mind sharing that information. And I've bought decent used engines sitting on the shelf already more than once, and with minor issues they all turned out good in the end. It's a different world today, none of that easy road stuff finding parts.
@@itsjustmetomc4848 Yard I go to started a new thing where they put fresh vehicles in a premium cage for around a month. While it's in the cage you get to pay double, and have to pull an entire subsystem. Want a door switch? you're taking the whole door and paying 2x for it. It's almost pointless now.
Here in my part of Canada the land is so expensive that they got rid of all the yards and build condos for yuppies on ‘em. Now I need to go 140 miles to get to the nearest one, instead of 14
Love your channel and troubleshooting ability. You use test equipment better than most electricians and many engineers I know. Great tools and the knowledge on how to use them.
Squarel cage blowers Require a Wall Next to cage to Cause the air flow Were Blade style Fans Create A Vortex from behind and push forward i have noticed Lot of people think Blower cages work outside the box but they dont even on Cage style floor blowers there in a Box to direct the flow great Point Eric O 12:40 @South Main Auto Repair LLC
I just replaced a blower motor 2 weeks ago on my own car.
The "new" part didn't fit - plastic body too thick.
So I kept the original housing and used the new motor. Worked, but a huge PITA and waste of time.
Bad new parts are happening more and more these days. I just bought 3 new coolant temperature sensors in a row from O'Reilly's. All were shorted to ground and made the gauge read full hot. Bought a $65 temp sensor from the Chevy dealer and it works perfect.
I recently changed the same part in my sister’s 2008 Malibu, first resistor I got brand new from Auto Zone was defective, so I went to Napa and that one was defective, ended up going to junk yard where you can pull your own parts off junk cars, and that one works fine
The u pull it closed down in my area that I called the poor man's junk yard so appreciate the one you have right now
Ikr its sad that parts are the way they are now hard to get and if you are lucky enough to find a good one it doesn't last for long
Great how -to video! I have come across bad new parts many times working in Industrial Maintenance. Photo-eyes, limit switches, proximity switches, electric clutches. Nothing more frustrating than installing a bad NEW part. 😂
Felt that pain many times. I started as a troubleshooter at Michelin in '88, things were a lot more reliable back then. I moved to BMW in '95, and it seemed like parts just got worse year after year.
11:52. NEW. Never Ever Worked. Love it. NAPA, Advance, O'Reilly? Dorman parts? B.O.D. Broke On Delivery. It's a crap shoot. Chinesium. Like you said: Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. Thanks again SMA. Another good vid to go with coffee.
I totally understand the frustration of defective new parts after 55+ years in the electronics repair business. Now so many parts are counterfeit crap that you can't trust many suppliers.
Good morning Mr Eric hope y'all have a great day, I just repaired an 05 Dodge truck, diesel, ECM threw codes for everything (low voltage) so the guy put 2 new batteries in 350 bucks,but nothing changed, took a look, needed new battery terminals plus grounds were beyond loose, repaired that, the professional battery shop installed the batteries, and did piss pour work, it is just horrible to think business could do such bad work
It’s getting to the point where all of your “house brand” parts house parts are likely coming out of the same Chinese factories with just a different box, and the factories have a 50/40/10 failure rate: half the parts they make are rejected before they even make it out of the factory, 40% either are rejects that slipped through “quality control” or fail within the first year or two of operation, and then you have the 10% of parts that are ACTUALLY good and will last for years without failure.
Remember the Chinese will build you all the quality the customer requests. They build spacecraft and high-tech fighters, but if spec your parts to the lowest bid and cheapest quality, well, they'll build that and laugh while counting the capitalist pig's money in the CCP's bank accounts.
I needed a new aux vac pump for my truck so I bought the $35 ebay junk rather than the $135 Dorman junk that probably comes from the same place. It didn't work right out of the box, had to pop the lid off and work the pressure switch back and forth several times to get it to start turning off automatically like it's supposed to.
They should come with a scratch off lottery ticket....or temporary life insurance in case it's a suspension part
I am rebuilding a 69 Camaro for a friend and i try and buy good parts,but the brackets and things never fit quite right,body parts,some new electronic/electrical parts bad out of the box.. frustrating and 2x the work.
I've been in the vehicle fixin' biz for 50 years. For 40 of those years I would suggest to replace some items pre-emptively for customers about to make long road trips. In the last few years I have FAR too many cases of doing this and they would have a problem on the road with the new parts. I also have been using way more used parts than I ever have.
So the other day James Condon did a video where he was doing a few small repairs on a Ford F-150 and he had a bad blower motor resistor that was bad out of the box as well. His was a Motorcraft. He mainly does small engines, mostly generators. As a retired Navy Diesel Mechanic I appreciate both of these channels.
❤❤ Thanks for sharing this video especially after my partsgeek return experience ... learned my lesson and my clip on tool kit for good canics on the go...you rock...as always...
We use those vent motors to make Halloween props. Its wild seeing it being used for its intended purpose in the wild. BTW, they are actually pretty water resistant.
Looks like a miniature version of the heater that melted the ice on mars in Total Recall
As part of the ‘mechanic on the go lifestyle’ collection, Wera also provide a two post car lift with a belt clip on the back.
Their screwdrivers should come with a Lift for the price
Had similar problem last month 2 sets of Dorman knock sensor in 2003 Chevy 5.3 then went OEM went threw 2 more sets and did use new harness torque to spec still very little out put went with standard and all good I did go back and watch your video on using scope which was helpful
Ordered one wife's 04 buick Rainer was bad all so went to junkyard got one for 1/3 price and still working
Hey Eric! Be glad the blower motor did not need to be changed! a real pain in the downloader. Just had to do one on my 2006 Grand Caravan. The mounting bolt for the blower motor cover right up against the firewall is vitually impossible to get to. Had to take a hammer to it to break it out, and then fix it with JB Weld and reinstall. (without that damn bolt that a robot HAD to istall).
I can attest to this - I replaced the blower motor in my old Tahoe with a unit from NAPA (nota sponser), and the thing died in less than 2 years. It was rebranded cheap chinesium. Thankfully, I kept the original (It started working again mid-removal, I shoulda just left it in), so I cleaned it out as best I could, sprayed inside it on the brushes with some DeOxit D5, and swapped it back in; the replacement was full of carbon grindings and had no brushes left.
Loved the new part " never ever works " comment. I feel your frustration, been there many many times.
Junk right out of the box... I remember when that was VERY rare. (50 odd years ago) ;) Follow the evidence - Where ever it leads. Another winner Mr. O!
It always works a little harder when it's in the box :) .Nice job as always.
00:37 - S'truth. Even disconnecting the bat'ry immediately before inspection will cause an inspection fail, at least in NJ, because the emmissions-related data will be erased. I had to disconnect my Honda Accord's battery the day before inspection due to a power seat problem. I even looked up and performed the driving cycle, but after waiting in the inspection line, I still failed due to insufficient data. Pro tip: I learned that if your CEL blinks twice (at least for this Honda) upon startup, it ain't ready.
The Fonzerelli 😂🤣😂🤣. Man you’re showing your age. I grew up with Happy Days.
Good morning Eric and Mrs O 🤘🤘🤘
Dragnet! Just the facts Ma’am just the Facts!
"This is the dashboard. My name is Eric; I work on motor vehicles. I'm a mechanic." DUM DE DUM DUM. DUM DE DUM DUM DUMMMMMM!"
What we have here is a failure to communicate. Out here in outer space or in the box! I Enjoy the simple way Eric can explain how the world really works!
Gave my zone control motor the fonzerelli today.
Your reaction when the blowa fired up was priceless!
Good morning, gang.
Boy am I glad I live in Florida. I saw your method of bearing removal on a Subaru. Mine just came out , but I ordered the parts on line. They sent me three front bearings, and one rear. While replacing the front ones I found the ball joints are bad also. I will have to wait for next months S.S. check before I can do them oh by the way I am 71years old, and a good mechanic is worth every dime they charge if you can afford it.
I replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses on my 1995 Toyota Pickup. Believe it or no, it still had the original lower hose which was finally giving up the ghost. That was about 6 months ago and I just today noticed coolant puddling on the timing chain cover. The NEW upper hose is leaking. Coolant is oozing out of the ends of the hose. It is actually leaking from the inside out. The cut end of the hose is turning coolant red! Just simple radiator hoses!!
Good morning
I just went through the same "bad parts" with a blower motor resistor from Auto Zone. Duralast parts resistor blew the full speed circuit in 2 seconds on 2 parts. I gave up on Auto Zone and went OEM and the OEM resistor worked. By the way a common reason the resistor blows is low air flow because the cabin filter is really dirty/clogged. ( I changed the filter first before the Duralast fiasco )
Good electronic etiquette as always.....a car is just techie gear w/ wheels ! [ Well, there is all that knuckle bustin' for us knuckle-draggin'-neanderthals ]
Nice o-scope to see the PWM stuff that controls the fan speed !
Easy job too....didn't have to mess w/ the blower....just 2 screws & you're in & outta there in no time !!!!
There is just something about watching you do troubleshooting that helps me be better at it too.
Complicated or simple….just a sound approach..;-)
Working on an 01 LHS. Blower speed module, which is also responsible for shutting the blower off with automatic climate control, took a powder. When they fail, the blower will run on hi any time the key is on. No control. Various aftermarket suppliers still offer 'new' parts at nearly $200 but don't last. I know what you're thinking, the motor is over amping. Not so in this case. Water intrusion was the problem. Even after that was fixed, the new part wouldn't last but a couple weeks. A quick trip to a local pick a part, snagged 2 OE used modules for $20.00. 7 months later, it still works as designed. And the customer has a spare just in case.
Working on vehicles these days requires one to be an auto technician and an electronic technician all in one ! Your the best of both Mr O !!
I had an 09 Ford Flex that required the Fonzarelli on the top of the dash above the glove box to sometimes get the fan running. After a few months of that I finally got a Ford part and replaced it !!!
Got lucky and nothing else was wrong with the electronics. So being a parts changer worked. As always “ Thanks for posting” !!!!
The extra amp of current draw is the dead mouse doing the Indy 500 laying in the fan cage. 🤣🤣
Some heater resistors have thermal fuses. A motor drawing too much current will take them out, sometimes in a matter of minutes, sometimes after a few hours. When the resistor is a ten minute job but the fan motor is a whole dashboard removal eight hour remove 60+ torx screws job and you don’t know what the normal current draw for the fan is you always change the resistor first…then learn how to replace the thermal fuse.
I must have been lucky in my life I have never had a new part failure Cheers Mr O .
I had the variable resistor on my 2004 F150 go up after 19 years. I replaced it with an aftermarket part. That lasted one week. I then ordered the OEM one. Its still working fine. I have found NAPA parts to generally be really good. Other after market, not so much.
You were right, it was just a meat tenderizer. 😂😂😂
My daughter calls it the “meat hammer”. Fun.
Great video Eric, I love your sales pitch on the Wera kit…I can picture you and Mrs O doing an infomercial!😂🇺🇸
I replaced this same resistor board in a different Chrysler, I think I just got one on amazon, and it worked, and its been about a year now, so we got our moneys worth. An older version of this, I just went the junk yard. I grabbed 3 of them. 1 was DOA, the other two worked. For a Ford, which was only about 5 years old, I replaced the board with a new one, first one was mostly DOA, but the second new one worked. Junk yard and new parts have the same odds of working anymore. Junk yard actually might be higher reliability now that new parts are even worse than when I was replacing all of these.
Most times I have had the resistor bad, the fan goes full speed. I guess it depends on the system. Thanks for the show, Eric O...
I know my GM truck is like that. So the defroster stays working lol
Great basic troubleshooting, including the Fonzarelli move.
Bad new parts SUCK.
Great work Mr. O. It's almost better going to Wilbert's and getting your own parts than trying new parts.
Have an auto HVAC setup in my Silverado. Bought an expensive Dormant when the original failed. Never worked right. Picked up a tested used control off eBay. Works perfectly.
I think the more you restrict airflow on a centrifugal fan, the auto interior blower, the lower the amps, like a furnace with a dirty filter will have lower amps. Propeller fans like on an AC unit are the opposite, the blocked off fan draws higher amps.
Is there not a difference where the restriction is in the duct, for example the intake vs exhaust side of fan? Intake to fan I can see lower amps, exhaust side higher amps.