A great video. Everything is very well done and explained 👍. I particularly do not like to use YAMAHA lubricant, these YAMAHA lubricants certify a very old service API standard SG, There are higher quality API service lubricants with modern technological Ester with API SM or SN that exceed the quality of YAMALUBE API SG lubricants. YAMALUBE lubricants comply with a sufficient but minimal quality in API SG, also with the standard of wet clutches with JASO in MA, currently this standard is very old, today JASO is used in M2. Now Yamalube is starting to add JASO in M2 but in ESTER quality it is still far from a good quality of API protection. Yamalube are too expensive lubricants for minimally fair quality. A marketing campaign like Kawalube that convinces many users through absurd marketing explanations, those YAMALUBE lubricants feature outdated API certifications. A good lubricant will always be 100% synthetic with SAE 10w40 (depending on the temperature in your area) with API SN certificate with JASO in M2. Personally, if I used mineral or semi-synthetic YAMALUBE API SG with JASO MA I would change the lubricant every 6000km if you do not want carbon particles in combustion engine parts. You can (according to my criteria) proceed to lubricant changes at 10,000km as long as it is 100% synthetic with an API in SN with JASO in M2. It is my recommendation.
@@albertopuente6831 All SAE xWx lubricants have two blends. The semi-synthetics have a mixture with a synthetic base and the other part of the mixture is mineral, the 100% synthetics have both synthetic mixtures. 100% synthetic lubricants are superior in quality to any mineral lubricant or any semi-synthetic that has a synthetic base and the other mineral. It is an irrefutable concept of quality and performance.
Hi buddy, what that means 4.2 L total, because I changed the oil, I put 3.4 L and still got low , at minimum, should I add still 4.2 L , not over fill?????
If you replace the filter is 3.4 L. To check the oil level, warm up the bike to 160 F. on the center stand level surface, turn it off, wait about 10 minutes, and check the level at the little window. it should be right in the middle between the bottom and the top of the window, little more or less is not a problem. So far this is the efficient way to check the oil. Yamaha could have done a better job.
Seems you may be about 0.8 too low. I would just add a little at a time and make sure to wait around 10 min, check the sight glass as mentioned by Fabrizio. Hope that helps!
Nice video. U need a brake cleaner spray for the bolts and a bit bigger funnel :)
Thank you for this video!
Very good, I'd like to see that oil filter protected, it looks exposed to damage from the front.
After market skid plate solves that problem
Thanks for the awesome video. Please upload more videos.....
Great video, but Very odd , low torque for drain plugs 14 foot pounds, my FJR 17 foot pounds & goldwing 22 🤔
A great video. Everything is very well done and explained 👍. I particularly do not like to use YAMAHA lubricant, these YAMAHA lubricants certify a very old service API standard SG, There are higher quality API service lubricants with modern technological Ester with API SM or SN that exceed the quality of YAMALUBE API SG lubricants. YAMALUBE lubricants comply with a sufficient but minimal quality in API SG, also with the standard of wet clutches with JASO in MA, currently this standard is very old, today JASO is used in M2. Now Yamalube is starting to add JASO in M2 but in ESTER quality it is still far from a good quality of API protection. Yamalube are too expensive lubricants for minimally fair quality. A marketing campaign like Kawalube that convinces many users through absurd marketing explanations, those YAMALUBE lubricants feature outdated API certifications. A good lubricant will always be 100% synthetic with SAE 10w40 (depending on the temperature in your area) with API SN certificate with JASO in M2. Personally, if I used mineral or semi-synthetic YAMALUBE API SG with JASO MA I would change the lubricant every 6000km if you do not want carbon particles in combustion engine parts. You can (according to my criteria) proceed to lubricant changes at 10,000km as long as it is 100% synthetic with an API in SN with JASO in M2. It is my recommendation.
What do you think about a synthetic blend?
@@albertopuente6831 All SAE xWx lubricants have two blends. The semi-synthetics have a mixture with a synthetic base and the other part of the mixture is mineral, the 100% synthetics have both synthetic mixtures. 100% synthetic lubricants are superior in quality to any mineral lubricant or any semi-synthetic that has a synthetic base and the other mineral. It is an irrefutable concept of quality and performance.
How often do you re-lube;the spline??
what kind of torque wrench is that
I was told the recommended motor oil for the super tenere1200 was 20w40 is this true or is it just 1040
Hi buddy, what that means 4.2 L total, because I changed the oil, I put 3.4 L and still got low , at minimum, should I add still 4.2 L , not over fill?????
If you replace the filter is 3.4 L. To check the oil level, warm up the bike to 160 F. on the center stand level surface, turn it off, wait about 10 minutes, and check the level at the little window. it should be right in the middle between the bottom and the top of the window, little more or less is not a problem. So far this is the efficient way to check the oil. Yamaha could have done a better job.
Seems you may be about 0.8 too low. I would just add a little at a time and make sure to wait around 10 min, check the sight glass as mentioned by Fabrizio. Hope that helps!
What tires does your moto have?
Metzeler Tourance NEXT Tires
@@SteveTech83 are they made in China like the old style Tourance are now?