Magnetic Push Rods and a DuetWiFi for Super Fast Printing!
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- Опубликовано: 30 мар 2020
- I've finally completed my Anycubic Kossel build! Using Magnetic joints and a Duet WiFi control board has given me a successful printer that can print very quickly and upside down!
How to wire a Duet Board into a Delta Printer: • How to Install a DUET ...
Playlist about this printer: • Anycubic Kossel
Patreon: / designprototypetest
Finally :) is about time ;) I'm owner of the same version You bought (no Plus with pulleys) and I'm running Marlin 2.x with manual mesh bed leveling on factory trigorilla board. I can get perfect first layer but max is 160mm circle( from 200mm bed) Max speed is about 60-70mm/s. The problem I got now is lack of operating memory that is left after flashing newest Marlin ;) If I want to print some complex and big geometry, board drop bed leveling functionality ( it ignores mesh I have stored to EPROM) So yes Delta owners you do need more memory power and more cpu power to slay that dragon ;) Greeting From Poland
This is going to be ann awesome way for me to customize and mark my tools. I have been planning to use a similar process prior to finding your awesome video. Anyone else hate the barely legible and easily worn off demarcations on most sockets and bits?
You are very patient with your son, and this'll really help him grow his inquisitiveness and problem solving. Great to see :-)
After a few vids, and some hardware issues with an SKR 1.4, I took the plunge and bought a Duet2 Wifi. Goodness, it is such a leap. Was fantastic to get rid of the raspberry pi too. It is hard to quite describe why Duet2 is so much better. Everything from the documentation, board design, and particularly the software is more polished. The big thing is how well integrated it all is - which stands to reason of course.
Man, I wish I could design like that. Need to take a look at some tutorials. Great work!
I designed my magnetic effector from scratch but I went the way of having the magnets on the push rods instead of the effector itself. That could be one way to move the magnetic field back from the bltouch sensor. It'd still expand a little from the metal ball bearings but not as much.
I will say that with my design, even though it works, I designed the ball bearings to sit to close to each other on the three corners, so I think the magnetic fields were opposing each other as the moved to certain angles. So when that happened one axis was slightly pushing on the other axis. This would only happen for larger prints or prints that were on certain outer area of the bed.
Right now I am trying a new design using ball cup joints. At least that is what I call the name of the joint. It uses the ball bearings from the magnetic joints but cup on the end of the rods. I used my resin printer to print the cups.
As for the control board. I went from the original 8bit board that came with my Kissel mini to a 32bit skr. It works but I noticed it seems to act like it has linear advance enabled, that speed up slow down effect. Not sure what that was about but I know it is not enabled. This was before switching my design from the magnets to a ball cup. I have not tried it since changing my effector design as a I'm still designing some cooling fans for it but I hope I can get that figured out. I was thinking of trying the duet but they are a bit too expensive for me right now. I like the Skr boards on my other printers so I have a few extras which is why I choose to use it. But I heard that Marlin is not good for Delta printers. Not sure why, it is just what I heard. Maybe there is some truth to that, but who knows. I may have to try Smoothie if I can't get it to run Smooth with this new build. Punn intended. 😜
Very interesting watch! Loved it!
Very nice.
Looking at the first-layer issues, the high/low points are almost across from each other. Maybe slip a couple of fiber washers under the low side, to raise the whole bed, then raise the Z by 0.05mm? (I'm suggesting fiber washers, because you can sand them down easily, of they raise it too much).
Welcome back!
Nice to see you're back at creating content. Yes delta's havent changed that much over the years. I've got 2 delta's made in 2014 that with modern additions like 32bit electronics, you would never guess is that old. Still rocking it's original V6 which I only recently upgraded with a new block as I broke the original thermistor. If you change it back to wheels, you must be able to get that calibration better. I' always achieve a deviation of 0.006, with my BLtouch is only mounted with a single screw. On the marlin, duet thing. You should really give modern marlin a shot, only the first time is hard, after that it is as fast as setting up a duet. Although your arguments are right. I don't need to remove the board of one printer to get another printer set up. I think you wasted a lot of time doing that. I've even got spare boards lying around. Though duet might be way easier to set up, its does not make printer print better. So I spend my money elsewere. Btw, the days of reprap firmware being associated with duet are counted, there is progress on running it on boards like the SKR. Best of both worlds?
The quality of this video is the same a your otherones: just perfect
BTW instead of ABS, have you ever tried to print ASA
It is a Filament that behaves similar to ABS but it also has got UV resistance and i think it doesen't emit fumes
(I prsonaly only habe experience with PLA and PETG, so I can't speak from experience)
But pleas ceep this quality of you videos like this
You should look into the flex3drive open source remote direct drive extruder. I have a zesty nimble on my tevo little monster that's heavily modified and I love it
I second the Zesty Nimble being awesome!
Excellent. 👍👍👍👍👍
The ridges in your bed leveling is because you have mechanical play somwhere. Odd rows measures while moving in one direction, even row move in the opposite direction.
Great design 👍
Try ASA next time. It is not that smelling. Love it to print with it.
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
it might not smell but most websites are saying the fumes are potentially dangerous
Magnets are cool and all, but I'm surprised not to see more push rods under simple spring compression. Not my own idea (video by Tim Jacobson some years ago), but I have used it to good effect and never had the trouble with magnetic interference. (Edit: maybe unrelated to 25:50 but magnets can interfere with fans, too)
First, the print head touches the belt at the right side of the screen 23:57. That could had caused the leveling[tramming] issue.
I guess the Klipper firmware is on the bleeding edge of the spectrum but why not try it? Klipper firmware supports Duet-Web-Control, has some interesting features, and enable printers to print with grater speeds with reasonable print quality. Also, I think higher printing speeds are a pretty suitable goal for the printer; liner rail delta printer with a Volcano heat block. I believe a claver guy like you can reap the benefits of Klipper firmware despite it being less user friendly.
That is a good observation about the belt collision. Unfortunately, it's not the problem. I have since made my probing radius smaller so that the belt collision is not happening. I still get the ridges. The most likely culprit is the lash in the linear motion rails.
I've got to say, Although the duet boards are superior, they're sooooo expensive. I got a BTT skr 1.4 turbo and flashed marlin to it for my kossel and it took me 1 afternoon to get it up and running. Including manual bed leveling. I got wifi with octoprint that I already had set up with the ramps board that came with the printer. I'm on a tight budget, and it was very much worth it for me. Marlin isn't too hard. you don't need to know any c++ other than how to comment and uncomment things, and I used vscode with platformio instead of messing around with the arduino IDE. flashing new firmware is as easy as compiling and putting the binary file on the micro sd card.
I suspect that the remaining deviation is from a still present but slight magnetic interference. Overall, a fantastic video!!!
I own an Ender 3 Pro with a MicrosSwiss hotend, Bltouch, HeroMe Dual5015 fans, BMG extruder(clone), and DUET 2 wifi based on Your design enclosed with the power supply, PanelDue i5,stepper motor dampeners, with Noctua Fans at hotend and PSU-DUET bla,bla,bla
And i can tell that the single biggest improvement in my workflow-quality in prints, is by far the Duet 2.
That said, for many people doesn't make sense to have a 170$ board on a 200+$ printer.But indeed Duet is by far the most advanced board out there, without saying i couldn't achieve almost the same result with cheaper 32bit-Marlin base boards.
It's just better-faster, and with great interface.Everyone who used one knows what i'm talking about.
About your weird-looking Height Map bed leveling, I think you still have some interference between BLTouch and magnets, even with your new design ,even if bltouch doesn't trigger an error.
I don't know any way to measure non-time-varying magnetic flux, so you could check it.
It could also be an instability of the frame as you say.
Keep doing videos like this.
Also got a Duet2Wifi after raging about the SKR MINI E3 and the horrible customer service of BIQU/BTT.
My Creality Board was dead ( I still don't know why) and newer Creality boards were in my opinion overpriced, TH3Ds Boards price would have been ok, if it wouldn't nearly cost the same with shipping and customs to an Wifi purchased in my home country
I think your G29 showed such a strange image of your bed because the head touched the belt at the end of the first line.
Good observation! Unfortunately, it's not the problem. I have since made my probing radius smaller so that the belt collision is not happening. I still get the ridges. The most likely culprit is the lash in the linear motion rails.
I bet the problem with your bed leveling is that your end effector is tilted and it is tilting the BL Touch. You can probably level it by adjusting the 3 end stops. You can see it in the overall tilt of the bed on the mesh display.
I own a flsun QQ s Delta and I just bought duet 2 WiFi board. How hard would it be to hook this board up? I've been watching you videos and I love the board I also notice you have flsun Q5 printer. Any plans on installing duet 2 Wi-Fi? Also the flsun QQ s comes with a switch activated bed leveling system and I was wondering if that could be utilized with duet 2 board? Keep up the good work love your stuff
Yes, the switch could easily be implemented with a Duet control board.
I have the plus version and the linear rails are not that wobbly :D i think its different from piece to piece. Also the bed leveling error is not that extreme on the one i have with everything stock. But am gonna need to upgrade it to the 32 bit board :D it looks very good
Extremely high speed? Check Nitram on the tube and his Klipper Anycubic Kossel machine. That is insane.
How do you compensate for effector tilt when probe is offset on a delta?
Did you update to version 3.0 of the reprap firmware before going to 3.1? The guide is not very clear on that. I also have a early board and wish to upgrade.
Are the stl's for the effector and rail mounts available for download? Thank you!
I share files with my patreon supporters. I'm not trying to sell stl's, but it makes a nice bonus/reward for those guys who help me keep the channel going. Because this project is pretty old I will give those to you if you become a $1 supporter: www.patreon.com/designprototypetest Caveat: I will not be able to get those to you for several days maybe even like a week. I'm moving across the country tomorrow and it will be 5 days of driving followed by many days of setting up the new work space.
What program did you use to do the CAD design? ThAnks
Rhinoceros 3D version 6. AKA Rhino 6. The Architect's/Industrial designer's choice.
"I fart in your general direction"
I remember that from somewhere
Monty Python & The Holy Grail -- wait, isn't that a copyright violation too?
@@diepurpledino it's been a long time since I've seen that film
No play, but a healthy dose of static friction, I would imagine. Has anyone tried flexible hinges for a delta printer yet?
Really hoped that you had done smart effector with Tevo little monster. And other improvements also. TLM is still a widely used printer.
That is exactly what I'm working on next. :)
@@DesignPrototypeTest so Happy to hear that! I look forward to it. Thank you and stay safe my friend
I use the smart effector on my Little Monster. It works great. I use the mag ball arms and printed the mounts for them. Working great. I really like how the smart effector uses the print nozzle as the sensor for bed leveling.
So, you glued the bearing balls ??
Fair play... kind of. I'm assuming this is in reference to my criticism of E3D for gluing the gear onto the stepper motor shaft? First of all, I'm a DIYer not a professional seller of 3D printers and 3D printer parts. I don't have a machine shop at my disposal. Secondly, I was using the glue as a thread lock. It's well established that super glue does function like loctite. It's the secondary sort of safety mechanism. The threads are the primary attachment mechanism. In the case of the E3D printer there is no primary attachment mechanism. The super glue is the primary attachment mechanism.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Yup fair play.
Honestly you need to see from yourself how many metal parts "glued" in place, no extreme heat or forces >> glue, cheap, realiable and easy to manufacture.
Nothing wrong with it.
Could you not of magnetically shielded the probe? With aluminium tape or copper?
just a thought if anyone else is using this setup it might save them some time in printing.
There is no material which can shield from magnetic flux. The only thing you can do is redirect the flux. This is a complicated thing to achieve. I imagine that the two bolts holding the BLTouch are doing a bit of that, but the best technique is just to give the sensor some distance.
@@DesignPrototypeTest mu metal used to be used in all sorts of applications to shield components. It caries the flux lines around the protected item, as well as creating a faraday shield.
Quixotic!
You are paying close attention to me dear puppet master. You adapt your language day by day based on whatever I said the day before. As evidenced by this singular word which is derived from Don Quixote. It's not coincidence that you say this after I mentioned tilting at windmills yesterday. It only took you 24 hours to come up with this one. As you were researching my reference, did you learn about the profound effect that 17th century book had on the morals of current western society. If you learned anything, it doesn't show. Your actions are that of a thug and a coward shooting at me from the shadows. How do you justify your bully behavior? When you look at yourself in the mirror, do you admit to yourself that you are a bad person? You are attacking strangers who have done nothing to harm you. And for what gain? Are you the type who would kill a man for his tennis shoes? Go actually read Don Quixote. Maybe it will teach you a sense of decency. It's about a guy who can't stand the morally dubious modern world and instead chooses to live in a fantasy delusion where he can be moral, just, chivalrous, and kind. I don't even think you know what those words mean. You think this is a fun chess game. I'm fighting for my life.
Does Thingiverse not protect designers work?
With all the hard work you have put into this printer did you ever think of designing a full printer?
well, unless you have a commercial version of Fusion 360 or whatever 3D Modelling tool you are using, you are working under an open source license agreement, and since he has none of his 3D parts registered under any form of license, sharing these is fair game
maybe not fair in his point of view, but there would be ways to prevent this
Did you make the song in your video?
Yes. I tracked it on an original Gameboy: ruclips.net/video/QORzTGd875k/видео.html
What program are you using to make your models
Rhinoceros 3D version 6
Can you disable interpolation for individual axis drivers on the Duet?
Absolutely. It's super easy. You can even make the adjustment though your web interface. Just go into the config.g file and change the M350 for whichever axis you are wanting to adjust. eg. Change M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 to be two lines
M350 X16 Y16 I1
M350 Z16 E16 I0
This would turn off interpolation on both the Z and E axis. I don't know why you would want to do this, but of course it's an option.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I'm running tmc2100 clones on my Artillery Sidewinder X1 and the tmc2100 doesn't allow disable of interpolation without disable of stealtchop. I was curious if the hardwired drivers of the Duet allowed that. The reason to get rid of interpolation on the z axis is outlined here and has to do with missed steps which are cumulative on the z axis:
forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=6013
I doubt I have m350 active on my Marlin but it's worth looking into. I'm running Waggster Mod 1.5 with Marlin 2.0 for my V4 Sidewinder and some tft firmware I have been customizing for myself
The gist of the article is that interpolation is prone to missing steps under frequent changes in speed like you see in 3D printers. So a few interpolated steps on the xy axis doesn't hurt much and ultimately leaves you with more accurate print than microsteps alone, but on the z axis a small variation in layer height will pronounced itself across the whole layer and the following layer(s)
It would be especially prone to missing steps with vibration on the z axis, especially with an 8mm pitch lead screw like the Sidewinder has. So much as bump the machine and layer shift.
Almost everything you’ve demonstrated on the duet can be done with marlin on an skr 1.4 board and an octoprint pi for half the price. The only real difference I see is the way in which the firmware is configured, honesty.
Yeah the duet is the premium option but you act like marlin is just total shit, and it’s not. Duet is one cohesive product though, which does give it some advantages. In order to achieve the same functionality with marlin you need octoprint and half a dozen plug ins.
You should compare duet to klipper, which is a much more apt comparison. Klipper gets rid of some of the janky ness you seem to dislike with marlin so much, and allows you to use pretty much whatever hardware you want.
If that half you save is worth more than your time you put on it, absolutely.
I earn that money in
@@angrydragonslayer it's also learning stuff about electronics and programming firmware
sure you can just buy a 12k 3D printer and it prints awesome out of the box but for most people this is a hobby, and doing as much as possible yourself is the fun part
piezo probe can be had cheap these days. want to go over to reprap but worried about longevity (vhs vs beta max), marlin has a lot of support.
I think your analogy is not the best. A better comparison would be Apple and PC. Both ecosystems are still around, after many years. Duet and Reprap Firmware are growing/improving daily and the community surrounding that open source project/product is quite vibrant.
Sadly you've gotten a set of crappy linear rails or bearing blocks, I've had my linear plus for 6 months (I love this thing) it's my first, and they are as tight as can possibly be even after 7 spools
have to disagree partly here, a non-duet board gives you a bit more flexibility regarding stepper drivers, so far there is no duet board with plug-in slots for stepper drivers iirc
You should file a copyright violation on thingaverse agents him
Will it work? As far as I understood, the fake one did not stole anything, he created a new model from scratch, based on what he saw. The model is probably slightly different.
the way that printer wiggles as you touch the bed as you are complaining about 0,5mm play within the parts just triggers me...
"*the old web interface" wtf mine still looks like that.
nice all updated, I had no idea there had been any updates.
WHAT IS YOUR OPINION ON HOW THE CORONA VIRUS WILL AFFECT 3D PRINTING STOCKS?
Will 3D printing stocks get a lift with our need to import less from China?
Injection molding makes parts in seconds which take a 3D printer hours or days to make. 3D printing will therefore never challenge the established mass production manufacturing. China has an iron grip on manufacturing for the world. 3D printing is not a magic pill which will bring jobs back to the US. Even in the current environment. The only bright light here is Tesla, but Elon made a deal with China and that is what saved his company from the stock depths last year. Therefore, even Tesla is now under Chinese control to some extent. If ever the U.S. wins back manufacturing it will be a painful process for our culture, and only the hard work and dedication of Makers, Entrepreneurs and Engineers with help from the 1% and the politicians will make that happen. Much as I love 3D printing, there is no magic technology that can save us. My biggest hope for the fallout of Covid 19 is that it will cause the 1% to turn on the CCP.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Thanks for your insight.
Sure duet is amazing but please stop bashing marlin, its not the same objective. Marlin can easily be configured thanks to community. And sorry but not everyone can buy a 180€ board ... Average user don't need to modify the firmware ... As always you a good guy, i love what you make but this attitude to seek conflict in almost each video tires me & I less and less want to watch your content ... Simple observation in order to make you progress. See you next video :) PS : sorry for my english
Competition exists whether or not you like to acknowledge the fact. You can't avoid conflict. Most people only have one printer. They have to choose one control board or the other. I bash on Marlin because every time I make a video about Duet I get comments like yours saying Marlin with RPi is better because it is cheaper and does the same thing. It does not do the same thing! Not even close. Duet is superior in every way, and it should be the dominant control board. Unfortunately it is not. So tell me, why should I not bash on the dominant but inferior product? I'm the only one saying these things. If nobody were willing to criticize the dominant forces we would be stuck with the inferior things forever and nothing would ever change. How dare you try to make this a personality thing about me. As if I have a bad attitude and I like controversy! Fighting stresses me out, I don't enjoy it, but these things need to be said.
@@DesignPrototypeTest You are absolutely right, competition exists, and it should, or else there would be stagnation instead of improvement.
Duet boards seem to be the better choice and i've wanted one for quite a while, mainly because i'm also having inaccuracy issues with my kossel on the MKS 8-bit board with Marlin that's in there.
BUT... i simply don't have the money for it, i love this hobby, but i would need to "quit and save money" for several months to do that.
So i've been wondering, would it also work to buy a cheaper 32-bit board like those offered by BigTreeTech, and put RepRap Firmware on that without the Duet Webinterface and all?
I don't mind a little tinkering in config files, i have some spare time (as in: work is done, and the wife and kids are sleeping) but not a lot of money to spend.
My standard 8bit prints better than this :) I am upgrading to 32bit bit my Plus is printing excellent
Watch the next video in the series: ruclips.net/video/iNMt2MYfrF8/видео.html This is not an 8bit control board in existence which can print that quickly on a Delta. The processor can't compute the arching movements quickly enough.
@@DesignPrototypeTest will give the next one a watch 👌 I know it wont print as fast as a 32bit but my 8bit is printing at 60mms and its spot on , if only I knew how to upload pics on here 😅😅