The Leather Element: Contact Cement
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2024
- In this video, Chuck goes over the best tips and tricks for using contact cement. Although adhesives like contact cement and leathercrafter's glue may seem self-explanatory, there are best practices we can implement to get a good bond and create projects that stand the test of time.
For more supplies and project inspiration, visit weaverleathersupply.com
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OMG! Chuck, I wish I had seen this video before using contact cement on my project. Yea, I got glue on the table. Yea, I got glue on the wrong side of my leather. Your videos are the best. Thank you.
I use aerosol adhesive on lining panels. It covers easily and doesn’t soak through.
Unwanted contact adhesive on the grain side can be removed with a crepe rubber eraser as long as it’s nearly dry.
Great video. Thanks.
Put petroleum jelly around the collar of the can
Outstanding tutorial 👌
Thank you so much... I've learned so much in the last month watching your videos...
The boot and shoe folks I've been learning from strongly prefer Renia Colle de Cologne.
Good stuff Chuck! All this information is a must for any Worshop.
Information that was needed. Thank you.
Great info Chuck
Great video and tips, I definitely learned something new!!!!!! Thanks Chuck!!!!!
learned a couple things, thanks Chuck
You and Don Gonzales should do a collaboration project Chuck!
We would love that!
Do a project with leather and waxed canvas.
If you need good leather cement and you are in Germany: Kövulfix is the way to
Glued a piece a bracelet two years ago and it is still a perfect bond
Video Suggestion: Wing dividers for measuring, marking, dividing, making shapes(like a compass...you can get really creative with a few geometry tricks), etc. Add in an etched metal ruler, and use them to repeat measurements on projects. Most of the ancient trade skills relied heavily on the wing divider.
My poor dogs can't stand the smell of contact cement, so I had to move to the water-based stuff.
Great suggestion, thank you!
OLD Leather Smith here, excellent as always Chuck. Some things I use in my Shop, A water bottle with a 1/8 hole it spreads the glue extremely well a drop or a large area, I use well wood contact cement cones in 3 sizes it's more reasonable and works just as well. I also use WAX PAPER on large projects 2 make sure I get it straight the first time. Sorry 4 So loooong. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️🥎🙃
When I was making leather garments back in the 1970s, I was taught to fasten seam allowances, hems, etc. with rubber cement, which was also called contact cement, and worked like this. Is this contact cement the same or something different than rubber cement?
Hi there! Barge cement and S-18 are a little bit thicker than most rubber cements so that they can be used for more porous materials such as leather. Otherwise they are similar.
Chuck have you tried Vaseline on the threads of lid ?
That's a great tip!
👍
Great info been watching and gaining knowledge about your craft. My question is this. Do you have a video on how to clean, condition, and water proof a project wen completed. When done making the project that can't be the end of the story. Don't you have to clean and condition it at least don't you before sending it out?
Hi there, you shouldn't have to clean it since the item hasn't been used yet. You can wipe it down with a dry cotton rag or a leather brush but leather cleaner should only be used if the product has been heavily used and is dirty. As far as conditioning, that is up to you but if you are putting a top coat on the leather then the conditioner will not be absorbed into the leather because the top coat is resisting it. If you are using natural leather without dyeing and using a top coat, then you can absolutely put some type of leather conditioner onto the item. Hope that helps.
What did you do to get the glue off your finger so you didn't get it onto the project?
Let it tack up and then rub the adhesive off your skin. Avoid accidentally touching your eyes, or mouth, if you have any remnants of the solvent based adhesives on your skin.
my issue with glue is its stringiness and gooping on the edge of the can. 😂 I dont have Chuck's magic flick.
Are you going to Sheridan Chuck?
Yes, Chuck will be at Sheridan!
could you make a play list for stamping
We have a carving and tooling playlist that includes a lot of Chuck's stamping videos. See if this helps: ruclips.net/p/PLzvwlO3D_z7dcLbBmX6RFZMP7RtvQGWps&si=rXoIUhhY4OHE6YqM
Chuck, need help. Making a simple pouch using 2 pieces of leather. Lets say you want to make a simple phone case. A pouch. How do you determine the stitch line dimension vs the size of the item to be inserted? Do you take the exact dimension of the object, then add the thickness dimension? Do you add the thickness dimension twice? A snug fit, yet easily removable is desired of course. I want ot get it right the 1st time, every time. Thanx as always.
Don Gonzales has a great video on determining stitch lines, you should check it out
@@mattbrown2793 Can you give me the name of the video please. If your tslking about his video "Stitch Line Placement in Leather Work" thats not what im trying to figure out....
See if this video helps, Chuck shows how to make a phone case and shows how to include the depth of the phone!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Ok, I watched "Making a Leather Phone Holster" where he say's "Take the width of the phone, add the thickness, (for the stitch line) then add another 1/4" (assuming thats the cut mark). Although he doesnt say to do the same on the other side, Im assuming thats what needs to be done. So in reality, if you want a snug fitting pouch or "sleeve", then you simply take the overal width dimensions and add the thickness X 2, and that becomes your stitch line. Im also assuming you only add the thickness dimension 1 X, for the height. Never mind the fact I do all my layout drawings on a computer, and my cutting & punching is done with a laser.
I make a replica out of wood sometimes. I put the object (or wood replica) in a plastic ziplock bag or wrap it with saran wrap, then I wet the leather a lot with hot water and shake or blot dry until it is not dripping. Then I put baby powder in the pouch and insert the object or wood block that is all wrapped in plastic. I allow it to dry and then remove the object. A bit more baby powder if needed to loosen the fit and it gets looser over time with use. Re-dampen the leather just a bit to make the leather tighter as it dries if it is too loose.
Leather has an amazing ability to stretch so most of what I make is made for a tight fitting purpose but it can still release the object. I have used leather conditioner to soften it up as it ages and is exposed to sweat as sweat from the body will cause it to dry tighter and stay stiffer.
We used to use this method for rifle scabbards that would mould to the rifle. I use it for my tool pouches for holding flashlights, pliers, knives, and anything else that I need in a pouch.
Don’t worry about making it perfect. Most of my mistakes turn into an unexpected solution for something else.
Chuck, why after you apply the glue/cement you let it dry ? Wouldn't it be better to stick the 2 pieces together while the glue/cement is still wet or a little wet, tacky ??
Contact cement is designed the best adhere when the solvent has evaporated away. This means the moderate dryness of the adhesive bonds best due to the solvent’s lack of presence allowing for the “glue” molecules to bond together with both the material and itself in a permanent way. This is why you apply contact cement to both sides of a project.
@@Stryker2 thank you
Can you use this to adhere leather onto canvas or leather onto kydex?
As long as you sew the joint, leather to canvas should be fine. Not sure about waxed canvas though(might work long enough to sew it up though). If Kydex is like a smooth, non-porous plastic, it probably won't work well, even if you rough it up.
@allan339 thanks for the tip. kydex is what's known as a thermoplastic. It's the same stuff that most plastic holsters are made out of.
I pour the glue on my big projects too lol
Thanks Chuck! It's too bad that there's no comparable water based option.
I use Renia Aquilim 315 Odorless Water Based Contact Cement. I get it from Amazon. It's never separated on me and is basically odorless. I just finished lining a leather bag with pigskin lining using the Renia and there was no soaking through the skin. I used one coat and it came out really nice. Springfield Leather may handle this product as they did a video on it a while back with the developer.
OLD Leather Smith here, there is a Fiebling white glue works great. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️🥎🙃
EcoWeld is a great alternative.
. . . . . . .....also, for us beginners that CANNOT afford the items from Weaver Leather Supply, what & where would be an inexpensive glue/cement brand and place (eBay etc) to purchase leather compatible contact cement/glue ??
Weldwood contact cement from most hardware stores.
Walmart, Home Depot, Lowe’s, or any hardware store near generally carries Weld Wood contact cement. This is a readily available and reliable option for a solvent based contact cement adhesive.
@@mikestoning5536 is this affordable - can other contact cement/glue be used ?? I seen glue in WalMart for material . . . . .....
@@Stryker2 thank you
Great video but I really think you should have repeated how important it is to have proper ventilation when using solvent contact cement. The neurological damage is horrifying to pets, children, and adults over various levels of exposure. Also, there are non-solvent based contact cements on the market for those who work in confined spaces or are concerned about the safety of solvent based products.