f the best upgrades I did to my cougar was to but in a holding tank. I used a two gallon pressure tank like you would see installed on a hot water heater for overpressure. You can also use a tank that is installed on a home well system but for whatever reason they are twice the cost for the same thing. It was a very simple install I just cut into the cold shower feed line in the basement. the water can run for a couple of minutes or at least a couple of flushes without turning on. It is now the first thing I do on any RV.
I added last spring an Onsen 1.0L Accumulator Tank. Made in Canada. Works great keeping the sound level and vibrations down in the system. The pump quieten down too. All that pump jerking is not good on all the pieces. About CDN$ 80. Also, the check valve built in the pumps are junk. I had my pump refill my fresh tank In Newfoundland then again in Alberta. It was a new trailer and pump. The replace did the same. The third worked but I put a inline check valve just in case. I think it was CDN$ 20.
I have a motorhome with 3 different switches to turn the water pump on and off. What I discovered was that the wet bay switch had become "mushy" and would turn the pump on by itself. Last winter, I found the water pump running when I checked on my baby after a couple of months, no telling how long it had been running. To my surprise, the pump still works after running for who knows how long dry, I'm guessing at least a month. The pressure is weak, so I'm going to replace it, but I am amazed at the durability of the ShurFlo pumps.
Like others have said, an accumulator tank makes a big difference. It stops the pulsating and also extends the life of the pump from what I was told. I've installed one in two of my trailers and one in my Roadtrek van.
Thanks Ray! I also have a Shurflo 4008 water pump in our 2016 Grayhawk 31FS. We don't boondock much, but we use the pump several times a when we driving our motorhome. It works perfectly for flushing the toilet, washing hands, fruit etc. When we boondock we use it for showering as well. It will be interesting to see if the new pump is more durable than the Shurflo. My wife would have an issue with the decibel level of the new pump. Hopefully Anne is okay with it. LOL.
why did you use 6 guage wire for a 12A component? i use 6 guage wires on my 150A rc cars. lol. way way overkill for a 12A water pump. im curious if there was a reason or if thats just what you had lying around maybe?
There are a couple of reasons: the wire run from the 12V battery source to the pump is pretty long, my batteries are at the front of the 30-foot trailer, the pump is at the very back, and the DC distribution panel is on the opposite side of the trailer from the pump, the OEM cabling kind of snakes through the underbelly, so I wanted to reduce voltage drop caused by resistance over such a long wire run to make the pump run as well as it can. Also, I had plans to use the same wire run to install an external 12VDC outlet near my rear bumper to run things like an outside water transfer pump to fill the fresh tank from a water bladder in my truck bed or a 12V air compressor that draws 20 amps. I also later installed a 12VDC outlet into the pump box enclosure. Using the 6 gauge gave me options for the future as well. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV oh ok cool. makes sense. I'm about to be replacing my stock pump for a higher pressure one so i can run an infinite water heater. i like looking at other people's projects while im thinking about my own project. lots of good ideas i would not have though of otherwise. your video gave me the idea to build a sound dampening box around my pump even though its under one of the bunks which is itself a box. but i can still hear it a ton when in use so a box within a box should hopefully help with that. cool vid man. i appreciate the reply.
I'm not sure, if you watched the update videos on this but adding an accumulator tank was a great thing to do to helped with noise and make the flow much nicer. . See the last video on the page. www.loveyourrv.com/installing-new-rv-water-pump-usa-adventure-gear-5300/
I agree with adding an SHURflo 182-200 Pre-Pressurized Accumulator Tank. It stops the pump from running all the time. The pump fills the pressurized tank and the tank supplies the water. All well systems use a pressure tank to protect the pump and an RV water system isn't must different that a well system.
I've considered that but an no easy install location. Most trailers have the pump in basement storage area so easy but mine is in a weird location. May have to build a bigger enclosure.
The sound level does seem a bit louder, and the frequency is (apparently) a little lower. From the exterior at least, the new pump seems to be well made. You did a nice job of installing it.
Your videos are always helpful Ray! I am going to replace the pump in my camping trailer and was wondering if I need to drain the water tank before disconnecting the old pump? Thanks!
Shouldn't have to as usually the fresh tank located is lower in the rig than the pump, at least it is in mine, its sits above it. But I don't know your particular layout.
I ended up getting the 3200 version designed for RV use and added a small accumulator tank. Works great now! I kept this 5300 model for water transfer as its designed to do. Here is the update video ruclips.net/video/t6wPm62XLPE/видео.html Cheers, Ray
When I installed an Oxygenics shower head in my 5th wheel, the Shurflo 4008 pump bounced on and off like yours from the extra back-pressure. Cycling on-off rapidly is hard on the pump and pressure switch contacts. I eliminated the problem be adjusting the pressure switch cutoff point. It now pump constantly. It seems your new pump has the same problem and you should be able correct it the same way.
@@LoveYourRV Your kitchen faucet may have a flow reducer washer in it. They can cause unnecessary back-pressure, too. If the back-pressure reducer is removeable, take it out and readjust the pump cutoff. That might do the trick. Otherwise, I am familiar only with the Shurflo pump. There may be some other way to adjust your new pump.
Great and fair review Ray. Seemed a little louder to me as well. That 6 ga wire though :) Going to add 50 amp service so you can power the coach when you fill the tank. Like a little hydro electric dam :) ... Just kidding buddy, great review as always.
I'm assuming the pressure switch is integrated into the pump. This would mean your relay will be on, drawing power for its coil, any time the water system is turned on, whether the pump is actually running or not. If you leave your water system turned on all the time that could amount to a significant drain on your power reserves. This depends, of course, on how much current the relay coil takes and how penny-pinching your power storage situation is.
Thanks Ray - Yeah, it does sound a little more noisy. At least the pump is not under the bedroom at the front like it is in my Rockwood. :) Have you considered installing an accumulator tank? - They seem to be very affordable. - I don't have one.
I didn't feel the need for one before but looks like this new pump may require one to work properly. My issue is I don't have a convenient to install one in a heated area. Will have to try and figure something out.
The light on panel comes on but no pump. Does this mean time for new pump? Ever since I tried boondocking with a generator I broke furnace and waterpump
It may have a light but there might not be power at the pump. You could check for power at the pump with a volt meter or pull out the pump and attached the leads to a battery to see if it runs.
If I'm running the wire anyway figured I may as well put in a thicker gauge than needed. In case I want to install something else in that area in the future and for minimal voltage drop to the motor. Cheers, Ray
Nice job. I don’t fully get what a relay does. I thought new pump would be quieter too! It has an inner check valve too? Hopefully it does a better job. Can’t wait for follow up review :-0). That inner check valve on the sureflow lets water in the fresh tank even when new. As soon as there is debris. Even with an in line filter. I was going to try an second check valve on the line with a water hammer arrest or on the lines at the faucet and see what that does but never got around to it yet. In the end it’s still a 6g wire on the positive?
I actually still have the cheaper model, haven't had a chance to return it to Amazon yet, so thinking of trying than one and see if it performs any better. Maybe the 5300 is just to powerful for my system. Reading more closely online they seem to refer to it as water transfer pump for filling tanks. Whereas the 5200 is referred to as a RV water pump replacement. hmmm..
I've considered that but an no easy install location. Most trailers have the pump in basement storage area so easy but mine is in a weird location. May have to build a bigger enclosure.
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*UPDATE* on this Water Pump Install - WRONG Pump for the Job. See new video ruclips.net/video/7FDnZ5wwmm8/видео.html
f the best upgrades I did to my cougar was to but in a holding tank. I used a two gallon pressure tank like you would see installed on a hot water heater for overpressure. You can also use a tank that is installed on a home well system but for whatever reason they are twice the cost for the same thing. It was a very simple install I just cut into the cold shower feed line in the basement. the water can run for a couple of minutes or at least a couple of flushes without turning on. It is now the first thing I do on any RV.
I added last spring an Onsen 1.0L Accumulator Tank. Made in Canada. Works great keeping the sound level and vibrations down in the system. The pump quieten down too. All that pump jerking is not good on all the pieces. About CDN$ 80.
Also, the check valve built in the pumps are junk. I had my pump refill my fresh tank In Newfoundland then again in Alberta. It was a new trailer and pump. The replace did the same. The third worked but I put a inline check valve just in case. I think it was CDN$ 20.
I have a motorhome with 3 different switches to turn the water pump on and off. What I discovered was that the wet bay switch had become "mushy" and would turn the pump on by itself. Last winter, I found the water pump running when I checked on my baby after a couple of months, no telling how long it had been running. To my surprise, the pump still works after running for who knows how long dry, I'm guessing at least a month. The pressure is weak, so I'm going to replace it, but I am amazed at the durability of the ShurFlo pumps.
Hows your baby? Lol
Like others have said, an accumulator tank makes a big difference. It stops the pulsating and also extends the life of the pump from what I was told. I've installed one in two of my trailers and one in my Roadtrek van.
Or the newer variable speed pumps out there. No need for accumulator tank then but don't add one to variable speed pump
Thanks Ray! I also have a Shurflo 4008 water pump in our 2016 Grayhawk 31FS. We don't boondock much, but we use the pump several times a when we driving our motorhome. It works perfectly for flushing the toilet, washing hands, fruit etc. When we boondock we use it for showering as well.
It will be interesting to see if the new pump is more durable than the Shurflo. My wife would have an issue with the decibel level of the new pump. Hopefully Anne is okay with it. LOL.
Excellent upgrade
Awesome idea to use a relay.
Hi ray my pump failed this year I put in a lippert flow max seems to be pretty decent but your right that one is quite a bit louder
why did you use 6 guage wire for a 12A component? i use 6 guage wires on my 150A rc cars. lol. way way overkill for a 12A water pump. im curious if there was a reason or if thats just what you had lying around maybe?
There are a couple of reasons: the wire run from the 12V battery source to the pump is pretty long, my batteries are at the front of the 30-foot trailer, the pump is at the very back, and the DC distribution panel is on the opposite side of the trailer from the pump, the OEM cabling kind of snakes through the underbelly, so I wanted to reduce voltage drop caused by resistance over such a long wire run to make the pump run as well as it can.
Also, I had plans to use the same wire run to install an external 12VDC outlet near my rear bumper to run things like an outside water transfer pump to fill the fresh tank from a water bladder in my truck bed or a 12V air compressor that draws 20 amps. I also later installed a 12VDC outlet into the pump box enclosure. Using the 6 gauge gave me options for the future as well. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV oh ok cool. makes sense. I'm about to be replacing my stock pump for a higher pressure one so i can run an infinite water heater. i like looking at other people's projects while im thinking about my own project. lots of good ideas i would not have though of otherwise. your video gave me the idea to build a sound dampening box around my pump even though its under one of the bunks which is itself a box. but i can still hear it a ton when in use so a box within a box should hopefully help with that.
cool vid man. i appreciate the reply.
I'm not sure, if you watched the update videos on this but adding an accumulator tank was a great thing to do to helped with noise and make the flow much nicer. . See the last video on the page. www.loveyourrv.com/installing-new-rv-water-pump-usa-adventure-gear-5300/
@@LoveYourRV oh nice. I didn't know there were updates. I'll check those out
Another fine job by Ray’s RV Repair 👍
Yes does seem a bit loud as someone else said it might need a pressure tank.
I agree with adding an SHURflo 182-200 Pre-Pressurized Accumulator Tank. It stops the pump from running all the time. The pump fills the pressurized tank and the tank supplies the water. All well systems use a pressure tank to protect the pump and an RV water system isn't must different that a well system.
Awesome job buddy. Shut flow is quiet but the other looks well built 🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦🛠️
You need to add an accumulator tank it helps alot with the pulsating. I never did like when they put the pump in the living space.
I've considered that but an no easy install location. Most trailers have the pump in basement storage area so easy but mine is in a weird location. May have to build a bigger enclosure.
The sound level does seem a bit louder, and the frequency is (apparently) a little lower. From the exterior at least, the new pump seems to be well made. You did a nice job of installing it.
I got one from tractor supply but notice it says not for potable water. Ugh
Nice video Ray .Looks like there are times you don"t get what you pay for .I think I will stay with my Shurflo for now.
Your videos are always helpful Ray! I am going to replace the pump in my camping trailer and was wondering if I need to drain the water tank before disconnecting the old pump? Thanks!
Shouldn't have to as usually the fresh tank located is lower in the rig than the pump, at least it is in mine, its sits above it. But I don't know your particular layout.
You don’t need an accumulator tank, you just need a pump with a bypass built in. I think there’s better pumps for cheaper for your application
I ended up getting the 3200 version designed for RV use and added a small accumulator tank. Works great now! I kept this 5300 model for water transfer as its designed to do. Here is the update video ruclips.net/video/t6wPm62XLPE/видео.html Cheers, Ray
When I installed an Oxygenics shower head in my 5th wheel, the Shurflo 4008 pump bounced on and off like yours from the extra back-pressure. Cycling on-off rapidly is hard on the pump and pressure switch contacts. I eliminated the problem be adjusting the pressure switch cutoff point. It now pump constantly. It seems your new pump has the same problem and you should be able correct it the same way.
I did try a few turns without much change but maybe it needs lots of turns on the adjust screw.
I tried some more turns but ends up with too high of pressure on other faucets.
@@LoveYourRV Your kitchen faucet may have a flow reducer washer in it. They can cause unnecessary back-pressure, too. If the back-pressure reducer is removeable, take it out and readjust the pump cutoff. That might do the trick. Otherwise, I am familiar only with the Shurflo pump. There may be some other way to adjust your new pump.
Great and fair review Ray. Seemed a little louder to me as well.
That 6 ga wire though :) Going to add 50 amp service so you can power the coach when you fill the tank. Like a little hydro electric dam :) ... Just kidding buddy, great review as always.
I'm assuming the pressure switch is integrated into the pump. This would mean your relay will be on, drawing power for its coil, any time the water system is turned on, whether the pump is actually running or not. If you leave your water system turned on all the time that could amount to a significant drain on your power reserves. This depends, of course, on how much current the relay coil takes and how penny-pinching your power storage situation is.
I measured and the relay coil uses about a 1/4 of an amp.
Thanks for the gear link & review, brother!!
So many others won't go that needed extra step!!
👍😁👍
Thanks Ray - Yeah, it does sound a little more noisy. At least the pump is not under the bedroom at the front like it is in my Rockwood. :)
Have you considered installing an accumulator tank? - They seem to be very affordable. - I don't have one.
I didn't feel the need for one before but looks like this new pump may require one to work properly. My issue is I don't have a convenient to install one in a heated area. Will have to try and figure something out.
get a little pressure tank, that should help
The light on panel comes on but no pump. Does this mean time for new pump? Ever since I tried boondocking with a generator I broke furnace and waterpump
It may have a light but there might not be power at the pump. You could check for power at the pump with a volt meter or pull out the pump and attached the leads to a battery to see if it runs.
You used 6 ga wire? Are you planning to wire a welder in someplace? J.K.
If I'm running the wire anyway figured I may as well put in a thicker gauge than needed. In case I want to install something else in that area in the future and for minimal voltage drop to the motor. Cheers, Ray
The pump sounds much louder?
Nice job. I don’t fully get what a relay does. I thought new pump would be quieter too! It has an inner check valve too? Hopefully it does a better job. Can’t wait for follow up review :-0). That inner check valve on the sureflow lets water in the fresh tank even when new. As soon as there is debris. Even with an in line filter. I was going to try an second check valve on the line with a water hammer arrest or on the lines at the faucet and see what that does but never got around to it yet. In the end it’s still a 6g wire on the positive?
Good job
Install a tank Ray, less pump working = more batteries
By the way Ray…great install job !! That was a noisy pump, is there gonna be a swap out in the future ??
I actually still have the cheaper model, haven't had a chance to return it to Amazon yet, so thinking of trying than one and see if it performs any better. Maybe the 5300 is just to powerful for my system. Reading more closely online they seem to refer to it as water transfer pump for filling tanks. Whereas the 5200 is referred to as a RV water pump replacement. hmmm..
Good info 👍😎🦅🇺🇸
Thanks 👍
Not a true variable speed motor, sounds like a two speed type
Looks like you need a small pressure tank to eliminate the surging. Looks like you’re on the American Girl Mine Road.
I've considered that but an no easy install location. Most trailers have the pump in basement storage area so easy but mine is in a weird location. May have to build a bigger enclosure.
I have that pump for the outside it is loud
That is a odd place to install pump.? But at least it doesn't freeze as fast as it would in a basement
I guess they did it there since the 60 gallon fresh water tank is directly below it
Pretty loud for me.
Yes! Too noisey
Firstly !