Bonsaify | Three Examples of Creating Exposed Root Bonsai
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- Опубликовано: 12 дек 2021
- Eric explains the preliminary steps to creating exposed root bonsai from three, two year old black pines. Eric grew these Japanese black pine from a commercial seed source, and they've been growing in 3" x 9" Anderson bands. Learn how to address the roots we typically see after removing these trees from the Anderson bands!
00:57 Eric screened the bottom of the bands when he first put the young seedling in. He uses pumice, and then finer soil at the bottom. The intent is for the young seedling's few roots to run down through the pumice to get "little wiggles" in them and then start dividing toward the bottom of the Anderson band. Using the bands works well because you don't get circling roots.
02:01 Eric shakes out the loose granular soil, pulls apart the roots stuck together, and scrapes off peat moss soil. He's focused on the medium size roots that have some wood on them.
04:45 Analyzing the root structure provides cues for the design of the tree. Eric separates major roots into root clumps so he can move them relative to each other. To create the illusion of taper with roots, cluster them together so the roots flow seamlessly from the trunk through to the roots.
06:23 Eric clears the pines up before beginning wiring through to the trunk.
06:47 Tree #1: Using 3mm aluminum wire and starting at the junction of the roots and the actual tree, Eric demonstrates how to wire to create a cylinder/clump of roots together.
08:39 Completely design the finished tree through a controlled design process. At this stage, Eric has in mind that as he bends the roots he wired, the overall size of the tree won't change.
10:28 Tree #2: Eric excludes two large roots from the clump he's wiring, and wires them separately to create outliers of roots. He adds tighter movement to create more interest and complex interplay between the trunk and roots.
13:41 Tree #3: Another approach to harmonize the roots. Eric wires just 1 large root to bring it into line with the remaining root clump, and wires it around the clump.
17:04 Repotting after wiring. From a horticultural perspective, we can't just expose all the recently wired roots at once; Eric builds an apparatus that enables the tree to return to growing after the "traumatic" wiring experience.
18:05 Watch this! (Really)
19:54 The tree examples in their new containers.
20:17 Eric provides one caveat for the safety of the trees - this work should only be done during your repotting window, based on your climate.
Have you designed any exposed root bonsai? Let us know in the comments, and share photos with us on Instagram or Facebook (tag us @bonsaifyonline on both platforms)! Please subscribe! Like this video, and share it with friends. 
Хобби
I was unable to get pots like this 4 years ago when I started a batch of 25 exposed root JBP. I used a couple different sized pop bottles and it worked surprisingly well. I want to start another larger batch this year so I’m searching for these Anderson bands right now. Thanks for that info.
If you want a case, try growers nursery supply in Oregon. www.growers-inc.com/ Don't forget you'll need something to keep them in (like an Anderson Flat.). But you can also use old 3 gallon containers etc.
The soda bottles work great. I've used them for exposed root ficus and it is nice to be able to cut away the bottle to expose a small number of roots at a time.
Thanks for the great explanations. I’m honestly daunted but working on pines so I very much appreciate all the tutorials your doing for working with developing materia
This is the first time I have actually wanted to work with pine. There are some great concepts in here, thanks for the knowledge. “It’s not that you like it or don’t like it, but that you find it interesting.” Thanks
Great content as usual!
Thanks for your attention to detail it’s much appreciated.
I have some two year old black pines I plan on doing this in the spring.
As always, just great content and video. Please, keep going!!!! Thanks you for your time and commitment.
More to come :-)!
@@Bonsaify They are really great and useful videos, thank you for making them.
Thanks I always learn so much from you
Thank you for sharing your technique !
Great video. Can't wait for a future update.
Glad to see your channel growing, Eric!
This very high quality demo, thank you sir.
Thanks for the excellent video. Very succinct and informative!
Excellent video, and great explanation! Looking forward to follow up videos, as well as other content. Thank you!
Really appreciate your videos and explanations. Thank you.
Enjoyed the Travolta reference. Haha.
🕺🏻Tony Manero would love this tree! 🤩
Very informative and interesting. I appreciate you taking the time to walk through the process. Nice job.
Your contents are always inspirating.
Awesome video! Gave me some new insights on how to create exposed root JBP's. So far I just put them in a tube filled with very large sized pumice. Greetings from Belgium ;)
Great content!
Awesome 👏🏼 !!!
Thanks
amazing, i like it,,😍😍😍😍😍😍
I used a screen that I rolled into a tube, which seemed to be working at first, but then I could not keep the soil wet enough. Next time I would wrap the screen or use some type of pot like you did.
Yes, it depends on your climate. In humid or wet climates the screen is fine, although you can wrap it in spaghnum in summer for added insulation and remove it in winter. But in dry climates a solid sided tube is better. You can also use the screen and then just wrap that in a soft plastic (like an akadama bag etc.)
Great video. I do wish you could show some closer up shots of the trees/roots though.
Hmm. Thanks for the feedback. I'll take a look at this.
Very nice video and good explanation.
What about the fertilizer application? do you apply it into the upper pot, lower pot or both? Thanks in advance
Great content! Happy to find your channel! Do you work with olive trees?
👍👍
Travolta wishes
Excellent video, any chance we could get an update on these 3?
Lol. I have started tagging my material that's used in videos so I can do follow ups (Not a problem for older trees normally, but for this type it is.) But unfortunately I have no idea where these three trees are. I made about 100 or so exposed root about the same time. I'll consider a follow up, but it'd be unlikely that I'd use the exact three trees.
👍🍎
Hi Eric. Ever compared using pumice (medium size) in the tube vs perlite/coco? The Perlite/coco seems to result in more dense and finer matted roots?
Inventive.
Hi ,sorry to bother you again ,you had me up thinking all night ,iam growing a few keishu junipers, in Ontario,one reason I love the work you do ,they are one of my favorite species,along with white pine Wich I only have a few of ,killed a bunch though. LoL (bark bettels). It feels like you lost a child or pet after hours of work ,anyhow my question is, do you treat you junipers over winter period ,the same way you do with your black pines, I have a small green house , I've been trying to keep my trees cold but not to cold it's a real game of musical chairs with bonsai ,so iam trying to see what I can get away with . Thank you for enlightening me and for you obviously underrated talent .
Hi Jay - we don't get much cold weather, so I'm not an expert in that. I'd suggest that you consult with folks nearby - I know folks in the upper midwest US sometimes go to pretty extensive lengths to keep plants safe. I think junipers are slightly hardier than pine these black pine, but I'm not 100% sure.
Eric, I just bought a 2-pack of these from your on-line store. Any thoughts or suggestions regarding whether or how I might intertwine them over a rock to create a twin-truck root over rock planting? Thanks for any suggestions you might have.
I've done a couple of these recently, using large rocks. In one case I had actually grown the two together with that intention. I might have more of those, but I'd have to search through the forest of them.
If you follow the general start of what I did in the this video, separating the roots into large clumps, I think you could then attach them both to the same stone, right next to each other, and have the roots organically intertwine...
I've never seen one before, but let's make it happen!
Intriguing! I’ll definitely be trying this technique with some of the JBP I ordered from bonsaify. Eric what is your source for the tree band pots? I don’t need to buy 1000😉
I got the from Growers Nursery Supply - www.growers-inc.com/square-1/ but they are out of stock now. Actually, it's been tough to find them tbh. You can buy them by the case normally, which is enough for a few flats. You'll ideally need Anderson Deep propagation flats, and these go in those, 6x6. Otherwise they are very tippy.
My method is to grow the tree in gravel mixed with organic soil in a small shallow plastic pot with no base on top of a bonsai training pot with regular soil mix. I grow the tree till the plastic pot on top of the other pot bursts from having to many thick roots. This method works it just takes longer to get a refined design. I would not recommend if your doing this on the professional level but it works for me.
Fucking masterclass
I have always had bad luck when combing the root ball on Japanese black pines, even just barely untangling and trimming slightly has almost killed a perfectly healthy tree. Is there anything Im missing or doing incorrect? I have tried applying mycorrhizae root powder to the roots beforehand, but that didn't make much difference.
Hmm. Young trees are different than old - and the tree being healthy is also important. The process in this video is only suitable for trees under 5 years old I would say. It's not the normal repotting process.
Hi there, I have an eastern pine and the roots started rotting so I’ve repotted it and trimmed the rotten roots off. We’ve had so much rain here in New Brunswick, Canada and a lot of humidity that the pine wasn’t drying out. BuT now the pine is sad looking. Is there anything I can do to ensure it doesn’t die but returns to a healthy tree again?
Kim🇨🇦
After a repotting like that, you need to carefully monitor the watering. Let it dry down as much as you think you can. It's a tricky situation, one that I don't always succeed with myself. And, you might look into something that allows you to leave the plants outside, but not in the rain. A bonsai grower in Portland, oregon once showed me a pergola type cover he used to shield his pines from overwatering. Just a structure that allows light and air in, but not rain...
@@Bonsaify ok thank you so much for your reply😊
Kim🇨🇦
Hi Eric wondering where you got the mesh style pots?
Those are Finofil Pond Baskets - 6" round. If you can find them, they are an English company. I tried numerous other brands but these are the only ones I could find that don't fall apart after 1-2 years in the sun. I have some that have been in use for almost ten years and are still solid. I have a lot of these, so perhaps I'll list them on bonsaify.com.
Is there no way I can buy a few? Cant seem to find a way to buy them on the website
To clarify I want the Anderson bands. Not the pines. I want to use the pots for my own projects
Chris - we don't sell the bands themselves. Please check here: www.growers-inc.com/
@@Bonsaify thanks a bunch. Really Nice of you to share
Hi, can this technique be applied to Cotoneaster?
Great question - they do sucker off roots, and I believe it will work and create an interesting result. I have yet to try it though!
@@Bonsaify Thank you :)
Hey ,thanks for your work ,I follow almost every bonsai,channel ,your my favorite,quick question ,your jbp. And trees at your location that doesn't get cold ,are they going into dormancy ,if the roots are growing all winter ,can this be an issue ,iam in Canada so iam curious about this because we get so cold, thanks for your wisdom. You inspire,many of us.
It's a good question - and we see that white pines on their own roots actually benefit from colder weather in winter than what we get. They are not as popular here. With black pine, I have tested keeping them in a greenhouse straight through (as young trees anyway) and they seem to ignore the warm temps in terms of top growth and sit there until the daylight hours reach a certain threshold.
@@Bonsaify thanks for responding, that's really interesting, I admire how you pushing the limits ,of the trees. So do you have trees you have to kinda force into dormancy or something,to do certain work? Thanks again your time is much appreciated.
Yes, and we're seeing slight decreases in dormancy duration over the last couple decades. This year the trees are late going dormant for sure. I've taken to stripping leaves from deciduous at the first signs of dormancy (outer leaves just starting to change color) to prolong what sleep they get. But, so far I can't attribute any negative effects to the lack of colder temps...although having things that should bloom in Jan/Feb bloom in early December is a bit strange.
@@Bonsaify wow ,so interesting ,thanks again for taking the time, to respond.