Very Important Message. Chuck over at Filament Friday made this video ruclips.net/video/OOqH3nxt3XY/видео.html which he released today. I 100% fully endorse and support it and in fact I was thrilled to learn so much from it to make my process so much easier. He even went as far as to contact me in advance and ask if it was ok of which I of course said yes. so please do not be upset with him. I consider my videos to be Creative Commons Affiliation Share Alike. Open Source. I fully support people using my content to iterate improve and expand I ask only for credit/recognition. nothing more. he is one of the channels I subscribe too and make a point to watch his videos in the little time I have for doing so. Please be friendly to him :-)
@@dugy40 Nice! be sure to remix link them on thingiverse if you post them so I will get notified and can see them! I am addicted to these little critters.
@@dugy40 Ah! thank you. I am not very familiar with svg files and I was....looking for flat 3D models of animals to try this with. You literally just saved me hours of me being dumb. Actual legend. Thank you.
Wow! Thank you so much! I've been teaching my elementary students to 3D print and they want to make an articulated print soooooo bad! I can't wait to try it with my 5th graders!!
Just stumbled across this video... glad I did. Makes me want to learn Tinkercad now LOL. This combined with CHEP's video has got my creative juices going now. Thanks Chris.
Nice Chris! If you ddidn't know, you can use CTRL D to duplicate shapes. It will also remember operations after the first duplicate is created. ie, if you duplicate your cut shape, move it 12 mm, then when hit hit CTRL D, it will duplicate the shape and move it 12 mm automatically. It's also helpful when doing revolves/rotates for gears and such
Great tutorial Chris. I'm going to redo my Batarang Using this tutorial. I think you'll get rid of some of the artifacts on seeing in the one I sent you.
Hi, a very good tutorial. At minutes 32-33, you scale the height up, to get rid of the lines. Which also scales the hinges , so they get a little bit eliptic. Of course in this case it does not matter at all, cause there is still a huge gap for movement. I just want to mention, if people want to use thighter hinges, bearings or any moving parts, that they should avoid scaling them in just one direction.
Agreed 100% but it was only .2 millimeters on something this size printed at a .2mm layer height it's literally irrelevant but yes if you're going to make tight tolerance parts that .2 mm could ruin it.
Good walk through! Using the Duplicate tool in the top left, or CTRL-D will copy a piece in place. If you duplicate and then move the piece, and duplicate again, the newly duplicated piece will also be moved the same amount as the previous part was moved.
hi, love this. Is it possible to make the hinge, punch and slicer bigger? I was thinking maybe select all 3 and shift to enlarge them so they all get the same amount bigger?
You can still save them into your favourites basically pick and drop like picking a cube. Just save all your favourite items into your favourites .and there's no more importing any more there all ways in your favourites .pretty cool really .
This is very useful! Awesome tutorial. Maybe you could use a screen capture tool next time, though. It would give us better picture. Screen Cast-o-Matic? You can use the free version (It just leaves their watermark on it). But Great video! I love that you use tinkercad. It is difficult for me to understand because of its simplicity. Fusion 360 is more for me, but my students use tinkercad and I really need to learn.
I so badly wish for the time to learn Fusion 360 it is so much more powerful :-) eventually in time :-) yes I definitely need screen capture I was not expecting the Moray pattern spelling? Pretty sure that's not how it's spelled but that's what voice recognition got :-) from the screen recording I will look into viable options to get around that next time
Carefully I've made the most in is 4.5 mm by dropping the print 2 mm into the print bed and I'm telling you printer to only go to 4.5 mm and it still work the hinges the same size I just took away the meat on the top of the bottom if you begin to shrink the hinge however that means you will have less plastic actually forming the pin that goes through the hinge too thin and it won't be strong enough for example I tried to make any 50% scale butterfly of the original butterfly and it came apart pretty easily delicate 3 mm doesn't leave much room for filament but I'll see what I can come up with I would probably want to make the hinge from scratch to do that
That was helpful. When you cut the plane on the top surface with the hinge being made slightly taller does it cause a problem on the hinge shape inside? or was the amount so trivial it didn't affect the bevel on the hinge's inner part? I noticed it had a slight bevel, but is that ok to shave off there and more cosmetic than functional? Also I am curious if you have you found a better way since then to make them the same height and not potentially modify the overall shape of the taller object with the reduction? Thanks again! I learned a thing today. I appreciate the walk through! this was the first vid of yours I found. So I gotta a lot of catching up to do to see if you've already answered this elsewhere too. ;D
I wish there was a way to save two parts together but separate until you're ready so I could have the punch already pre aligned in the socket in the hinge put the pair into place and then to emerge it would speed up the assembly although to be honest it really didn't take that long
Great tutorial I saw this on thingiverse and was wondering how you used it thanks for showing me I just have one question can you go side to side as opposed to up and down how would you do that would you just turn on its side and still punch it out the same way how would you? do that
Answer is technically yes in reality no the problem is you're printing a vertical wall with a hole in it which is not that hard to do and then you are Bridging the whole with the PIN which is optimal for both pieces in order to rotate the hinge 90° off plane would now require the vertical wall with the whole to be horizontal which is a single-sided bridge i e a dead straight overhang which you can't do in 3D printing at least not with any kind of precision and then just as worse your PIN now instead of being a very strong in the direction of the filament Bridge is now a little tiny Micro Tower of layers the absolute weakest thing you can possibly print :-) :-( see the problem now even if you could somehow make it print it'll fall apart the first time you try to use it I will have to think about a way to do that for now the best thing is to either increase the slop in the hinge Gap sizes so that the tolerance of slop will allow it to bend into directions like you already can to some extent also you could do something like the snakes does with this kind of three-dimensional hinge that can bend it all directions but even that one is still better on plane than off plane you could of course print the hinge pieces separate and then glue them in at the 90 degree off angle but that's very clingy and not elegant for 3D printing process I'll have to think about that
Question: I screwed up today and tried to put Tianse Wood PLA through my Stock CR-10 Mini. Needless to say, it clogged, but it didn't clog in the nozzle. No, it clogged in the Bowden tube because it was too wide, then it clogged inside the hot-end, but at the top part where it's still in the tube. Any idea how to get that heatsink cleaned out?
on the cr10mini? easy. just remove the compression coupling and yank out the entire bowden tube. it goes all the way to the nozzle. easy peezy. as for it clogging. try increasing the temperature. I had clogging with hatchbox wood but at 230c is was silky smooth out of the nozzle. BTW you may have heat creep. if the filament is "expanding" higher up inside the bowden tube heat might be creeping up past your heat break. make sure the hot end fan is running properly.
Some updates. I will make another video in the future. use CTRL D (duplicate) and you can automate a lot of this ALSO turn the punch into a hole first and ALIGN IT with the hinge first and then control D the "BOTH" of them together this way you don't have to manually align it each and every time.
Well hot damn thats cool. Is there a list of all of these commands anywhere? Well yes there is tinkercad.com/learn scroll down and a whole list of them. Neat. Thank you!
there are TWO bits !!! 1 cuts the hole it needs to be turned "into a hole" and merged with your model. it forms the gap and the hole then the other bit gets merged creating the hinge.
align your punch on your first hinge BEFORE you put them in place. Then duplicate the pair and position. Saves doing it 2X. Also use "transparent" if you need to to line them up.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Very Important Message. Chuck over at Filament Friday made this video
ruclips.net/video/OOqH3nxt3XY/видео.html
which he released today. I 100% fully endorse and support it and in fact I was thrilled to learn so much from it to make my process so much easier.
He even went as far as to contact me in advance and ask if it was ok of which I of course said yes.
so please do not be upset with him. I consider my videos to be Creative Commons Affiliation Share Alike.
Open Source. I fully support people using my content to iterate improve and expand I ask only for credit/recognition. nothing more.
he is one of the channels I subscribe too and make a point to watch his videos in the little time I have for doing so.
Please be friendly to him :-)
I made a bunch now since watching.
@@dugy40 Nice! be sure to remix link them on thingiverse if you post them so I will get notified and can see them! I am addicted to these little critters.
@@nerys71 yeah I even made two hinges. One with a ball the other with curved pin.
@@nerys71 I’d like to have a folder full of svg files I could get to work on.
@@dugy40 Ah! thank you. I am not very familiar with svg files and I was....looking for flat 3D models of animals to try this with. You literally just saved me hours of me being dumb. Actual legend. Thank you.
Wow! Thank you so much! I've been teaching my elementary students to 3D print and they want to make an articulated print soooooo bad! I can't wait to try it with my 5th graders!!
Be sure to check out chep's video as well it goes hand in hand with mine I think I have a link in the description
Just stumbled across this video... glad I did. Makes me want to learn Tinkercad now LOL. This combined with CHEP's video has got my creative juices going now. Thanks Chris.
This is a great instructional on making articulated prints. Thanks for sharing!!!
Nice Chris! If you ddidn't know, you can use CTRL D to duplicate shapes. It will also remember operations after the first duplicate is created. ie, if you duplicate your cut shape, move it 12 mm, then when hit hit CTRL D, it will duplicate the shape and move it 12 mm automatically. It's also helpful when doing revolves/rotates for gears and such
Very cool I'm going to try that tonight
Thx Chris.....been using Tinkercad for months...you have given me a few more tricks....great job!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! you taught me so much and you made it the easiest to understand, very much appreciated...thanks a trillion times
Great video, I have been a fan of your content for a while. Keep up the awesome videos!
Awesome I learnt a few extra features in tinkercad.
Nice work Chris :-)
Fantastic. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for sharing this technique and for the files to do it.
Your video was so informative an helpful! I made my first articulated print thanks to you!
this educational. i love it. 👍🏻 thank you for teaching. 🙂👍🏻
Great tutorial Chris. I'm going to redo my Batarang Using this tutorial. I think you'll get rid of some of the artifacts on seeing in the one I sent you.
Excellent Chris , pls you need to make more videos like this. Thanks
Great tutorial not only on making things hing, but how things work in TinkerCAD!!! Thanks!!
Very useful and easy to follow.... please do more of these videos!
Chris appreciate the time you put into this Tutorial, Continued success my friend ! Happy Extruding....
Excellent and informative, please do more like this👏
Very nice Chris! Kudos.
Hi, a very good tutorial. At minutes 32-33, you scale the height up, to get rid of the lines. Which also scales the hinges , so they get a little bit eliptic. Of course in this case it does not matter at all, cause there is still a huge gap for movement. I just want to mention, if people want to use thighter hinges, bearings or any moving parts, that they should avoid scaling them in just one direction.
Agreed 100% but it was only .2 millimeters on something this size printed at a .2mm layer height it's literally irrelevant but yes if you're going to make tight tolerance parts that .2 mm could ruin it.
Good walk through! Using the Duplicate tool in the top left, or CTRL-D will copy a piece in place. If you duplicate and then move the piece, and duplicate again, the newly duplicated piece will also be moved the same amount as the previous part was moved.
Ahhhhh so that is how you do that. I am so used to ctrl c ctrl v but the remember path only work with crtl d. Nice. I will have to try that.
hi, love this. Is it possible to make the hinge, punch and slicer bigger? I was thinking maybe select all 3 and shift to enlarge them so they all get the same amount bigger?
Yep as long as you scale togethet should be fine.
You can still save them into your favourites basically pick and drop like picking a cube. Just save all your favourite items into your favourites .and there's no more importing any more there all ways in your favourites .pretty cool really .
Cool. I will have to play around with that !
31:40 the reason it says 8.01 is because the hinges are 8.01 so before you group it, just scale the hinges hight to 8
Oh! I think you answered my question about the planing I had! Thanks.
@@HunterMayer yw
great explanation mate
you are amazing !
This is very useful! Awesome tutorial. Maybe you could use a screen capture tool next time, though. It would give us better picture. Screen Cast-o-Matic? You can use the free version (It just leaves their watermark on it). But Great video! I love that you use tinkercad. It is difficult for me to understand because of its simplicity. Fusion 360 is more for me, but my students use tinkercad and I really need to learn.
I so badly wish for the time to learn Fusion 360 it is so much more powerful :-) eventually in time :-) yes I definitely need screen capture I was not expecting the Moray pattern spelling? Pretty sure that's not how it's spelled but that's what voice recognition got :-) from the screen recording I will look into viable options to get around that next time
Nerys Fusion is really easy to learn. Plenty of sources online to go from. It will shoot up your income by a lot.
What if you wanted to make something that was only 3 mm height how do you adjust it to make the hinges smaller to fit a smaller design?
Carefully I've made the most in is 4.5 mm by dropping the print 2 mm into the print bed and I'm telling you printer to only go to 4.5 mm and it still work the hinges the same size I just took away the meat on the top of the bottom if you begin to shrink the hinge however that means you will have less plastic actually forming the pin that goes through the hinge too thin and it won't be strong enough for example I tried to make any 50% scale butterfly of the original butterfly and it came apart pretty easily delicate 3 mm doesn't leave much room for filament but I'll see what I can come up with I would probably want to make the hinge from scratch to do that
That was helpful. When you cut the plane on the top surface with the hinge being made slightly taller does it cause a problem on the hinge shape inside? or was the amount so trivial it didn't affect the bevel on the hinge's inner part? I noticed it had a slight bevel, but is that ok to shave off there and more cosmetic than functional? Also I am curious if you have you found a better way since then to make them the same height and not potentially modify the overall shape of the taller object with the reduction? Thanks again! I learned a thing today. I appreciate the walk through! this was the first vid of yours I found. So I gotta a lot of catching up to do to see if you've already answered this elsewhere too. ;D
Hey good tutorial. Going to try it. Thank you.
and you can save the hinges to your favorites witch makes it quicker for your next project nice video
I wish there was a way to save two parts together but separate until you're ready so I could have the punch already pre aligned in the socket in the hinge put the pair into place and then to emerge it would speed up the assembly although to be honest it really didn't take that long
Also, when slicing off the top, make the height of the "cutout" box to .1 or .2 etc, then use the align tool to align to top.
always learn something new when you do lessons :)
Great tutorial I saw this on thingiverse and was wondering how you used it thanks for showing me I just have one question can you go side to side as opposed to up and down how would you do that would you just turn on its side and still punch it out the same way how would you? do that
Answer is technically yes in reality no the problem is you're printing a vertical wall with a hole in it which is not that hard to do and then you are Bridging the whole with the PIN which is optimal for both pieces in order to rotate the hinge 90° off plane would now require the vertical wall with the whole to be horizontal which is a single-sided bridge i e a dead straight overhang which you can't do in 3D printing at least not with any kind of precision and then just as worse your PIN now instead of being a very strong in the direction of the filament Bridge is now a little tiny Micro Tower of layers the absolute weakest thing you can possibly print :-) :-( see the problem now even if you could somehow make it print it'll fall apart the first time you try to use it I will have to think about a way to do that for now the best thing is to either increase the slop in the hinge Gap sizes so that the tolerance of slop will allow it to bend into directions like you already can to some extent also you could do something like the snakes does with this kind of three-dimensional hinge that can bend it all directions but even that one is still better on plane than off plane you could of course print the hinge pieces separate and then glue them in at the 90 degree off angle but that's very clingy and not elegant for 3D printing process I'll have to think about that
Thanks, enjoyed this and look forward to more :)
This is so cool. Great tutorial. thanks
Nice video man, exactly what I was looking for!
Nice to see how to use Tinker CAD. 👍
Thanks for the lesson.. very helpful and cooll
Un grand merci de la France bravo pour ces super explications continué comme ça à très vite.
Excellent tutorial - Thanks
Thank you so much for this
Fantastic! Thanks!
You guys like kettle cooked lays because I'm kinda iffy with them. They taste like croutons and that means I can't eat the whole bag all in one go.
Question: I screwed up today and tried to put Tianse Wood PLA through my Stock CR-10 Mini. Needless to say, it clogged, but it didn't clog in the nozzle. No, it clogged in the Bowden tube because it was too wide, then it clogged inside the hot-end, but at the top part where it's still in the tube. Any idea how to get that heatsink cleaned out?
on the cr10mini? easy. just remove the compression coupling and yank out the entire bowden tube. it goes all the way to the nozzle. easy peezy.
as for it clogging. try increasing the temperature. I had clogging with hatchbox wood but at 230c is was silky smooth out of the nozzle.
BTW you may have heat creep. if the filament is "expanding" higher up inside the bowden tube heat might be creeping up past your heat break. make sure the hot end fan is running properly.
Thank you for the tutorial!!
Some updates. I will make another video in the future.
use CTRL D (duplicate) and you can automate a lot of this ALSO turn the punch into a hole first and ALIGN IT with the hinge first and then control D the "BOTH" of them together this way you don't have to manually align it each and every time.
Dude you’re fucking amazing. Thanks bro.
Great! Thanks!
Great tutorial!
You can also just press the "F" key and it will zoom into the selected Item.
Dude your awesome!
well done. thanks
could you do a tutorial for this in sketchup?
You can just press "D" to drop the object on to the workplane.
Well hot damn thats cool. Is there a list of all of these commands anywhere? Well yes there is tinkercad.com/learn scroll down and a whole list of them. Neat. Thank you!
I'm doing something wrong I've just ended up with a square hole and no hinge
there are TWO bits !!! 1 cuts the hole it needs to be turned "into a hole" and merged with your model. it forms the gap and the hole then the other bit gets merged creating the hinge.
nice lesson thanks
align your punch on your first hinge BEFORE you put them in place. Then duplicate the pair and position. Saves doing it 2X. Also use "transparent" if you need to to line them up.
Yes! I did not know at the time that i could copy and paste groups!! Soo much easier.
Ya... It's amazing how much I can squeeze out of such a seemingly basic cad.
Another thing that is crazy useful is to use the hide feature.
Again, Great tutorial !! Does TinkerCad save your files and keep them on their servers ?
Yes. Its quite nice
his curser was dancing
Nice video, I just did a similar tutorial for fusion 360. Thanks
Nice. Post a link here. I dont allow other peoples affiliate links (should be obvious why :-) but educational content is Good for everyone!
ruclips.net/video/GJ_1f4o0tsw/видео.html thank you I will put a link for this video
Awesome :)
this part was soo funny
but it's fine your videos are great
you could just have duplicated all from one side and mirror all of them at once
4:38
Its gone
Chris your quality is not that great
Awesome tutorial.