How To - Replicate any thread with Tinkercad!
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- Опубликовано: 24 мар 2020
- Check out my website www.Cheap3d.net
In today's video we will be learning how to replicate threads from an object you have in tinkercad. Specifically this will be 1/4 NPT threads. We will go over how to calculate the thread, how to find your tolerance and how to make the female and male side of the fitting. If you need to learn how to replicate threads this how to will help you out. Like and subscribe to see more tutorials!
Check out how to make nuts and bolts here. • TinkerCad Basics : 3d ...
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lot's of great info here...except for one tiny, little detail. You used the wrong thread chart. NFT is for tapered pipe thread. The 0.54"/13.72mm diameter is more than double the diameter you would need for 1/4-20. A UNC chart would have given you the correct thread width of 0.25"/6.35mm. I only post this because I needed to put a 1/4-20 thread in a part. Thought it seemed kinda big when I was plugging in the numbers. But everything else in here is gold!
Short, well explained and easy to follow!
Thank you for the great video!
thank you, you are the cause for my ability to advance my self with 3d modeling skill
Thank you so much for this! Appreciate how clear it is for beginners, once I figured the thread size out, your instructions made it easy to replicate.
I know this is an older vid but I just watched it. THANK YOU! Helped me out for sure.
Thank You, I love simplicity especially without losing the Important things ... Great Work ... Please keep us informed and keep us the Good Work ... Thank You .. All the Best and above all - now - Stay Safe ...
Absolute hands down awesome tutorial, keep em coming.
Awesome tutorial. Thanks for sharing, particularly your approach to accounting for tolerances.
Your welcome, important thing to remember is that every printer is a little different so make a few small test prints to gauge how much you need to add in for your printer. Once you get a feel for it you won’t need to do that every time.
So helpful! Much appreciated! I actually didn't think that Tinkercad was so 'advanced' to even generate threads...
Interesting tutorial. I like that part where you changed how gradual the threads are formed. Thank you once again for this tutorial
Your welcome!
yes you saved the day. Ephiphany Printing
Fantastic video!! Very well explained and I learned something else as well, aligning 2 objects 😅👏. So glad I now know that 👍
Thanks for making this so simple and understandable.
Thanks, your video taught me how to make my first 3d printed threads. Thanks!
Thanks so much for this. Very simple and easy to follow. Wasn't sure where to begin to decide how much bigger to make the threads in the hole when designing a nut and bold.
Your welcome! If you need help on anything just leave a comment on one of my videos and I’ll do my best to help you out.
What you did there is convinced me to get Tinkercad. And, ya I'd like you to show us how to put a thread on a sphere. That would be my end goal but as a newbie to cad. It's going to be fun figuring it out. Great vid. Subbed.
Thanks a million for this one - really clearly explained and helpful
Great tutorial! I was modeling a base for my wyze camera and this was perfect
Nice video. Easy and concise. Thanks bro!
That was awsome and very helpful. Only just starting out with Tinkercad. Thankyou very much.
Hey glad you liked it! If you want help with anything just let me know!
This saved my a lot of money, even with paying other to print my things. Thread adapters are way to expensive... Thank you!
Awesome job at explaining, need this to try and make fake suppressor
Saved me a lot of time and stress. Cheers 🍻
Great, strait to subject video. Thank You
Great video! One question though, aren't pipe threads tapered for a tight fit? Does the thread menu give you that option?
I'm going to have to try this! Thanks!
The tutorial is interesting and clear. But, if you want to print everything in 3D, you also have to pay attention to the distance between each thread in the nut, or you will not be able to screw it in until the end. To check this, make the thread (in this case the cylinder) transparent, insert the screw and check the difference. A small adjustment in the height of the inner thread will be sufficient.
You only have to extend the width . The whole object must not be expanded! This would change the pitch of the thread and it cannot be screwed at all. It is only necessary to create a gap to the sides. Counterpart only width :P . I think about 10% So if the screw has a width of, say, 16.5mm, just calculate 1% is 0.165 X 10 = 1.65 mm ( 16.5 + 1.65 = 18.15 mm counterpart
Great tutorial!
Thanks for the tutorial. The volcano hotend will make a huge difference in print quality, and print speed.
I never thought about why the holes were smaller. Nice
easy to follow step by step cheers
Aren’t pipe threads (NPT) supposed to have a taper to them? I thought that is what you were going to explain. Otherwise, these are just normal threads, or am I missing something?
Thanks for the tutorial!!!
Well done. Best of 5 I've watched on topic. More on pitch would be welcome. "PLA shrinks twice nozzle diameter" is interesting. Anyone else find this x-y regularity? Z-shrinkage?
Just like drilling a hole for a new bolt. You have to size it up. 👍🏽good stuff
bro thank you for your help/content.
This is excellent, thanks very much
I think you can change it to imperial inch, ie, "Edit Grid" bottom right.
I spent hours trying to find an easy solution to a fastener. I watched the first 5 minutes and then pulled a Homer Simpson when I realized there was a "Featured" section in Tinkercad. Thanks!!
Thanks for sharing this video and information
very useful, Thanks !!
Great tutorial, got a sub!
Thanks a lot!
finally getting around to trying to learn tinkercad, & this is SUPER helpful! thanks from a new subscriber!
Hey, I’m glad you found the video helpful! If you find yourself getting stuck on something or would like to know how to do something just comment on one of my videos and I’ll try my best to get you some help!
Hey, thanks for explaining this. I have a air pressure spike regulator i am working on, and its funny that you mentioned air pressure at the end. I always anneal my pla+ and sometimes vapor smooth also for best pressure holding results. Did you ever end up testing it?
Thanks for this. Btw - you don't need to stay in millimeters. You can change to inches in "Edit Grid" bottom right.
But why would you want to? Metric has much more granularity
@@Mr2greysIf you need a thread in inch????
When designing a specific part to fit somewhere you sometimes only have inches to work with and it's far easier to machine in a unit you took pre-existing measurements for rather than opening yourself up to conversion errors by trying to use both.
@@Mr2greys Are you retarded? One isn't better than another it's just another form of measurement that you obviously don't understand. It's like saying the color green is BETTER than blue, no it's just different. Imperial in the USA is better because everything here is measured and available that way. I use metric as needed but imperial makes more sense to us because that's how everything around us is measured.
Millimeters is more accurate
Ever tried printing these in nylon? I'd imagine it would work well for holding air pressure. I use overture nylon for threaded carabiners and they are waaaaay stronger than my pla+ or petg carabiners. It shrinks like 1 or 2 percent on its own, so the threads match right up.
thank you this helped a lot!
Your welcome!
Lol you Could measure it or ..... google !! 😂 man after my own heart !!! Ive got a cheap knock off Dermal rotery too I need to 3d print a threded adapter so I can put it into a vice.
Also subbed!
Excellent argument for scrapping imperial measurements. Well done. Subscribed.
Great video,Thanks for posting as I'm printing Bolts and nuts that don't want to work together,I'm going to try this method 👌👌
Best of luck! Remember to make a few smaller test print to get your tolerances for your printed dialed in. Also rubbing some candle wax on the threads will help them go together a little bit easier.
@@TheEpiphanyShow I've got some Beeswax,But I also once added a little heat to a fastner to cut the thread into The plastic,Again nothing that needs torquing down
@@TheEpiphanyShow So I took your advice on a 16mm thread that I designed but made the recieving female thread 18mm ( As 17.5 was too tight) Still not as smooth as I'd like but it's screwing in with the help of some olive oil😂
Is it possible to make lengths of threaded bar more then 20 Rotation ?
Cheers great Video..
Wow, thanks but are there no inner and outer thread radius adjustments?
Thank you.
thanks for this
Thanks!
Do you know how to control the minor diameter as well as the Major diameter? i.e. an M12 thread has a Major diameter of 12mm and a minor of 10.106mm. When making the female threaded part if the minor is too small, the bolt won't start in the hole.
Thank you
That's awesome. Thanks
No problem glad you liked it!
Thank You BRo!!
Are you able to actually add the taper?
How about tapered threads?
thanks a lot. i made a 14mm cc thread for airsoft. I made the thread hole 15,5mm. it fits tight on the 14mm thread.
Thank you I want to do the same! Glad it worked!
Excellent tutorial
Clever 👍🏴
Great video. Question, I have the need for 3x2 bushings with NPT threads. Cast iron is expensive and hard to find, plus costly to ship. Is it possible to 3D print? Thanks in advance.
i cannot find the threads in any category. also there is no featured category in my list. do you have to have an upgraded membership to get the featured category?
where can we get that iso metric thread you started with?
Elegant solution to getting the pitch when handed threads per inch.
This is great thanks. How would I change the length though? You have created 1 inch of thread. Do you do the math to scale it or is there an easier way to make it a different length?
Thanks for this converting to imperial had me stumped..
Thanks
Glad it helped!
When printing, do you need support? I know the threads have some angle to them, but if support is needed when printing can it be cleaned out well?
No. They don't hang enough
did you ever make the pressure chamber ?
This looks great. The only thing I want to add is that NPT thread is tapered. NC or NF is not.
Do you know how to put the threads on the outside of a cylinder? I am trying to replicate my pool vacuum adapter from intex to summerwave pool? One cylinder needs the threads on the inside and one needs threads on the outside with a tube to connect both of them.
I’m trying to make a stash jar with a screw I top. I’ve been trying everything to get it to screw together. I’ve tried every mm possible and it still won’t do it. Any advice?
I got a question, if I need a thread of more than 20 rotations how do I generate it? the thread generator doesn't support more than 20 rotations
Any guide for unknow treads mesurement
If you go to the setting menu you can change the measurements to inches instead of mm
Im struggling to put small items like rivets on models
What if I want threads longer than 1"?
I have a paint roller that has a custom thread on it ( so you buy the companies extension pole), how do I go about measuring the internal thread size and pitch so I can print out an adapter?
They make a tool for it but I’m assuming you don’t have it or want to buy one. What I would do is stick something inside the threads until it bottoms out for the length and make a mark on it. Then I would use something like an o-ring pick to feel the bumps of the thread. In a straight line every bump should be 1 thread. Take the length and divide it by the number of threads. For example 50mm/25 threads = 2 threads per mm. If it’s 10mm wide it would be a M10 x 2.
@@TheEpiphanyShow Thanks that sounds good to me!
Good video BUT,, how would you make the same bolt/thread pattern in a longer bolt, 3" long????????????
Ii need a generator up to 100mm diameter, where i can find?
an NPT thread without the taper is not NPT. so how would you add the taper?
Thank you so much. Im a beginner trying to make custom nerf blasters to sell and have wars!
What if you need more than 20 rotations? Say I wanted to print a 10" threaded rod.
Did you ever pressure test this?
I'm trying to make a #6 Machine Screw and it's not working. I enter the numbers and it just makes the screw too skinny and the threads too large. It's frustrating.
Can you use tinkercad to add an existing SDL, and use tinkercad to measure a piece of that object that has a recessed section? Everytime I use the ruler it just shows how tall the object is and thats it.
So like a box, it wont show how deep the inside of the box is
Unfortunately not. Best you can really do with tinkercad In this situation is make an object and merge the original as a hole and that would leave you with the void then you could use the measuring tool on that. Freecad is well free and the measuring tool is pretty easy to use.
I need left hand threads.
i need to make a compound miter setup block for a table saw . measurements are: 1st one 70 mm top 195 mm bottom 60 mm high. the second one is: 90 mm top 210 mm bottom 80 mm high any tips?
I suppose I’m confused on what exactly your making. I usually use a sled type jig for repeating mitre cuts. Might you be able to explain it better here or email me a link/drawing to what your looking to make? TheEpiphanyShowyt@gmail
Did they not have imperial measure as an option when you made this? Because I certainly can work in inches on TinkerCAD.
Irrc at the time if I designed something in tinkercad in imperial when importing it into my slicing software it would convert to mm but not correctly. So 1” would become 1mm and you would have to convert it anyways. I’m not sure that’s the case anymore. Additionally I design almost everything with metric measurements in mind since most of the world that is what is standard so it’s commonplace for me now.
how do you make it go over 20 threads per inch
Unfortunately there is only a hacky/ annoying way to do that. You have to make it 1” at a multiple of the tpi you need. Then shrink it down and duplicate the object and match the threads up. So say you needed 32 tpi you would make a 1” thread at 16 tpi and then take the z handle and shrink it down to 1/2”. This then makes it a 32tpi thread however it’s only 1/2” long. So if you needed a long thread you Would duplicate the object and move the new one up to the top of the new piece. Then you can repeat this process for the length of threads you need.
You know you can change the units to inches in tinkercad. Click Edit Grid in the bottom right corner.
wouldn't you get a tighter fit if you printed it undersized and then ran a tap through it after printing?
Yes you could, but your weakening it at the same time since you will be cutting your outer wall layers. Once you have tuned your printer you should be able to get pretty tight fitting parts. In fact most of the time I have to give mine a bit of a rub with some wax for easy operation.
so for simplicity sake. You have made a nut and a bolt. The bolt has a starting thread, but when you look at the nut. When you do the center alignment do you have to make sure the nut has a starting thread at both ends too ?
No you don’t. At least not from my experience
I guess instead of doing the inch to mm conversion you could have changed the units used in Edit Grid.
This is true but I would say most of the world uses MM and not inches.
@@TheEpiphanyShow Realy? only 192 out of 195.Liberia myanmar and usa are only country's that use caveman measuring system in 2020.
Who would/could have guessed what tip scale meant without this?
Not sure if you'll still be checking comments on this, but I have had such a hard time using trial-and-error to create a custom valve stem cap for my car tires. Can you help me figure out how to do this?
I can help you out with this.
@@TheEpiphanyShow 🏆🥇Thank you! Private message? New video follow-up?
@@CTRstocks Video follow up
@@TheEpiphanyShow So I just couldn't let this keep me awake at night anymore (not literally), so I spent some more time and was able to figure it out. I had been using dimensions I found online for Schrader (standard wheel) valves, those were (6.9mm x 0.784mm) in one place, but (7.7mm x 0.784mm) in another. Pretty sure those are incorrect or I have to use different dimensions when 3D printing. For my Ender 3 Pro, I had to set the diameter to 9.25mm, pitch 0.79mm, and everything else left as default. From there, I changed the shape from "Solid" to "Hole", nested it inside my design, and BAM! It worked. Thanks for offering to do a follow-up video, if you have already started it I still think it would be a useful video to add to your channel.
You'll also need to adjust the thread scale so the bolt inside is about 95% of the threads outside.