Dear Raine, Great Job, Thought I would give just a little more information if some did not get all the information that you said, I didn't hear you mention a couple of things. I am always impressed with people that are willing to take their time off a busy life to try and help people to be able to do their own maintenance and not pay the big bucks to someone else to do the job. I notice that most people that are showing how to do this timing on the Honda, have most of the instructions spot on but I have yet seen any to get one detail exactly right, they are always very close but are not spot on. When I am doing something I want it to be perfect. Here is where most people do not get it quite right. If just looking to line up with only the v-notch with the red mark then it depends on what angle you are looking through that notch to make it accurate, this is the reason they put also a pointer below that v-notch. So, the way to do timing accurately, we align the v-notch with the pointer then the pointer at the red mark. I hope this will help the perfectionist. I think I will put this information on the other RUclips video that I see, to help other perfectionist.
Finally i get it. You manually have to see, when the light goes up, if those three marks align with the grove or not... if not, then you adjust disrtibutor...
@@isaiaswithan_s7574 Yep you can absolutely rotate the distributor while the car is running. It doesn't have to turn too much to adjust but just make sure you have all 3 retaining bolts in and snug so the distributor doesn't pop out and get damaged, but lose enough to turn it. I honestly can't remember but you'll see very quickly when using the timing light!
I'm pretty new to working on cars as I'm a student and no longer working so forgive me if this comes as a ridiculous question. I see the notch you're pointing out on the video but don't see the 3 grooves on the crank pulley? Can you better explain where exactly I should be looking at? Got lost when you mentioned there should be a red and green mark and you made a mark.
Thats a bit of a loaded question but i would start with what work did you do where the timing is so far off? did you just do a timing belt or some head work? and how do you know its the timing that is your starting issue? Sorry for the late reply life has been crazy lately!
If you installed an aftermarket distributor, it is possible to install the distributor with the rotor being 180° reversed. Spin the engine over till its top dead center (white mark in the crosshairs) then take off the distributor cap to make sure the rotor is pointing near ignition wire #1 and not #4
Otherwise, like he said, check your timing system. You probably had your timing belt jump a tooth on the gear. No matter how bad your distributor is timing, the motor should at least start
I have a d16y8 and i have a p0453 code , not sure why. I also change the idler controle valves to see if it stop revving really high on idle, its ar almost 3000 rpms .
I would start with checking the Evap lines and connections for leaks and see what you come up with, Then I would check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum ports off of your intake manifold for leaks or cracks as well. Do you smell gas from under your hood? And when did you notice the high idle issue?
Hey bro, so my mechanic built the engine today and he sent me home with a homework basically, we had high idle and he said we cant time the engine unless its at idle, when he retarded the dizzy rpms went alot lower but still it wasnt enough so he said i should wire up obd2b dizzy will it solve the problem
Out of curiosity if I have a 98 Civic ex that seems to be a tooth off on the timing belt, and the distributer doesn't line up with the mounting brackets/ holes when it seems properly timed, could I just make brackets that hold it in the correct position mounting from the original mounting spots. I could cnc some so they wouldn't move at all. I guess I'm just wondering if there's a reason the mounting holes aren't bigger / longer enough to rotate more than they do if one tooth off seems fixable with just that little more rotation.
It wouldn't be wise; the crankshaft and the cam shaft would still be out of sync. At best you'd get less power and worse gas mileage. But probably, you'd end up, burning up a valve in some thousands of miles from blow-by
Thank you for this comment! I have no idea what happened there but I appreciate you letting me know, I got her edited down correctly and I'm going to chop that up to being inexperienced with editing!
Shorting the connector out just ensures that the ecu doesn't try to make any timing adjustments while you're tinkering so it doesn't really matter, I would get it up to temp first though
@@RaineLutz Thanks. What’s a good way to turn the engine to find those marks? I’m sure I’ll need to add some paint to mine to be able to see them better
@@mrsemifixit yeah a paint pen will make it alot easier to see but you can use the key to jump the starter and turn the engine over a small amount at a time. That or throw a socket on the crank bolt and turn it over by hand with a breaker bar or big ratchet.
Unfortunately it could be a few different things, what year and model is it? If you have a check engine light I would start there and scan to see what it is, if not it could be anything from a bad o2 sensor, or IACV, to a bad and cracked vacuum line. It super hard to narrow down without having the vehicle infront of me but there should be alot of helpful videos on each of those topics to help narrow it down!
How is the water in your radiator? Is it rusty if so take your throddle body out and clean the water passages one of them is clogged that causes honda idleling like if you were reving it
Sounds like you might have a vacuum leak or something else is going on. Try adjusting your idle screw as well. But if it's got no power I'd say you have a vacuum leak.
I have a 99 honda civic as well , replaced the complete head with a new one and it just cranks wont start …. Any advice on what it can be other than timing being off ? Thanks
@@samuel96f So normally if you don't bridge that connector the ECU will alter the timing for many reasons which is normal, but when you're trying to set your base timing such as in this video you don't want the ECU making any adjustments. If you don't bridge that connector you wont be able to adjust it correctly or accurately. Just remember to remove it after you're done!
@@RaineLutz I should probably have a mechanic do that for me. I’m having a couple issues on my Honda Civic, when the ac is on, the rpms drop really low like 100-200 hundred I heard it might be the timing
A mini me conversion is just a cheaper and easier way to get vtec by swapping on a vtec cylinder head onto a non vtec engine. Cheaper than an engine swap and a good way to gain a bit of hp.
Dear Raine, Great Job, Thought I would give just a little more information if some did not get all the information that you said, I didn't hear you mention a couple of things. I am always impressed with people that are willing to take their time off a busy life to try and help people to be able to do their own maintenance and not pay the big bucks to someone else to do the job. I notice that most people that are showing how to do this timing on the Honda, have most of the instructions spot on but I have yet seen any to get one detail exactly right, they are always very close but are not spot on. When I am doing something I want it to be perfect.
Here is where most people do not get it quite right. If just looking to line up with only the v-notch with the red mark then it depends on what angle you are looking through that notch to make it accurate, this is the reason they put also a pointer below that v-notch. So, the way to do timing accurately, we align the v-notch with the pointer then the pointer at the red mark. I hope this will help the perfectionist. I think I will put this information on the other RUclips video that I see, to help other perfectionist.
This is a great video, very clear. I envy your clean engine compartment. Thanks
Hey man thank you I appreciate it!
Good video, no bullshit straight to the point and all useful information.
i'm pretty sure you can just unscrew the dizzy cover and verify the ROTOR pointed at CYL #1 with verifying the TIMING marks on the CRANK match
THANK-YOU for this video! I've been havin an idle issue over 2years replaced few parts for nothing.
What did you replace ?
is the engine suppos to sound like that knocking kinda noise, have d16z6blocky8 head and it sounds exactly like that
Great video and right to the point. Been 20 yrs since I touched a civic and forgot how to time one. Thanks
Hey, I really appreciate it. Thank you, and I'm glad it helped!
Finally i get it. You manually have to see, when the light goes up, if those three marks align with the grove or not... if not, then you adjust disrtibutor...
Correct!
@@RaineLutz hey quick question to adjust it are we able to do it with the car on? And clock wise increases and counter decreases??
@@isaiaswithan_s7574 Yep you can absolutely rotate the distributor while the car is running. It doesn't have to turn too much to adjust but just make sure you have all 3 retaining bolts in and snug so the distributor doesn't pop out and get damaged, but lose enough to turn it. I honestly can't remember but you'll see very quickly when using the timing light!
@@RaineLutz thank you so much for replying fast ! I subscribed
@@isaiaswithan_s7574 Hey thank you I really appreciate that man!
Thanks brotha, I appreciate you taking the time to show us this!
Hey no worries, I hope it helped you out!
I'm pretty new to working on cars as I'm a student and no longer working so forgive me if this comes as a ridiculous question. I see the notch you're pointing out on the video but don't see the 3 grooves on the crank pulley? Can you better explain where exactly I should be looking at? Got lost when you mentioned there should be a red and green mark and you made a mark.
Did you ever figure it out I'm having the same problem.
ruclips.net/video/YvfOipK53fI/видео.html 1:09
it might vary between motors of this generation
What if your timing is so off the car won't start? How do you get it in time enough to get it idling?
Thats a bit of a loaded question but i would start with what work did you do where the timing is so far off? did you just do a timing belt or some head work? and how do you know its the timing that is your starting issue? Sorry for the late reply life has been crazy lately!
If you installed an aftermarket distributor, it is possible to install the distributor with the rotor being 180° reversed. Spin the engine over till its top dead center (white mark in the crosshairs) then take off the distributor cap to make sure the rotor is pointing near ignition wire #1 and not #4
Otherwise, like he said, check your timing system. You probably had your timing belt jump a tooth on the gear. No matter how bad your distributor is timing, the motor should at least start
I have a d16y8 and i have a p0453 code , not sure why. I also change the idler controle valves to see if it stop revving really high on idle, its ar almost 3000 rpms .
I would start with checking the Evap lines and connections for leaks and see what you come up with, Then I would check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum ports off of your intake manifold for leaks or cracks as well. Do you smell gas from under your hood? And when did you notice the high idle issue?
Hey bro, so my mechanic built the engine today and he sent me home with a homework basically, we had high idle and he said we cant time the engine unless its at idle, when he retarded the dizzy rpms went alot lower but still it wasnt enough so he said i should wire up obd2b dizzy will it solve the problem
Out of curiosity if I have a 98 Civic ex that seems to be a tooth off on the timing belt, and the distributer doesn't line up with the mounting brackets/ holes when it seems properly timed, could I just make brackets that hold it in the correct position mounting from the original mounting spots. I could cnc some so they wouldn't move at all.
I guess I'm just wondering if there's a reason the mounting holes aren't bigger / longer enough to rotate more than they do if one tooth off seems fixable with just that little more rotation.
It wouldn't be wise; the crankshaft and the cam shaft would still be out of sync. At best you'd get less power and worse gas mileage. But probably, you'd end up, burning up a valve in some thousands of miles from blow-by
Perfect video, thank you. Your air filter looked a little squished. Just a observation.
This was very helpful, thanks. Why was the video repeated several times? Or am I just having a fever dream?
Thank you for this comment! I have no idea what happened there but I appreciate you letting me know, I got her edited down correctly and I'm going to chop that up to being inexperienced with editing!
After youre all done, do you unplugg the service connector while the car is still running? Thanks.
It's best to turn her off first.
What if my car is gender neutral?
@@Force1Com what a stupid question like really get off of RUclips with that nonsense 😒
Hi sir. How to diagnose fuel injectors fire at the same time? Thats my problem in my honda civic
You're having multiple fuel injectors firing at the exact same time??
@@RaineLutz yes sir. And i have a fuel smell in my exhaust.
Do you need to short that connector out before getting the car up to temp or doesn’t matter?
Shorting the connector out just ensures that the ecu doesn't try to make any timing adjustments while you're tinkering so it doesn't really matter, I would get it up to temp first though
@@RaineLutz Thanks. What’s a good way to turn the engine to find those marks? I’m sure I’ll need to add some paint to mine to be able to see them better
@@mrsemifixit yeah a paint pen will make it alot easier to see but you can use the key to jump the starter and turn the engine over a small amount at a time. That or throw a socket on the crank bolt and turn it over by hand with a breaker bar or big ratchet.
My idle goes from 1300-800 up and down while it idols, any ideas
Unfortunately it could be a few different things, what year and model is it? If you have a check engine light I would start there and scan to see what it is, if not it could be anything from a bad o2 sensor, or IACV, to a bad and cracked vacuum line. It super hard to narrow down without having the vehicle infront of me but there should be alot of helpful videos on each of those topics to help narrow it down!
How is the water in your radiator? Is it rusty if so take your throddle body out and clean the water passages one of them is clogged that causes honda idleling like if you were reving it
Can be also , that you have to adjust the valves
Check the spring on your fuel pedal
What if I did it and my rpm are at 1100 to 900 and still has no strength
Sounds like you might have a vacuum leak or something else is going on. Try adjusting your idle screw as well. But if it's got no power I'd say you have a vacuum leak.
I have a 99 honda civic as well , replaced the complete head with a new one and it just cranks wont start …. Any advice on what it can be other than timing being off ?
Thanks
@@josephvelasco1661 does it try and fire at all?
do i have to remove the timing belt cover?
Na, you just need a line of sight to the crank pulley from the top to shine the light on.
What did the connector connect to?
the one in the passenger side footwell?
@@RaineLutz yeah what was the purpose of disconnecting it from the green cover
@@samuel96f So normally if you don't bridge that connector the ECU will alter the timing for many reasons which is normal, but when you're trying to set your base timing such as in this video you don't want the ECU making any adjustments. If you don't bridge that connector you wont be able to adjust it correctly or accurately. Just remember to remove it after you're done!
@@RaineLutz I should probably have a mechanic do that for me. I’m having a couple issues on my Honda Civic, when the ac is on, the rpms drop really low like 100-200 hundred I heard it might be the timing
What’s the name of the timing gun ?
It's patrick
What a mini me swap ?
Depends on the ecu and engine setup, if its an obd2 d16 it will be the same as this video.
what is mini me ?
A mini me conversion is just a cheaper and easier way to get vtec by swapping on a vtec cylinder head onto a non vtec engine. Cheaper than an engine swap and a good way to gain a bit of hp.
Can’t see the marks
That plug ain't plugged into shit, wtf is it there
Smoke weed
nice slosh-box 🙄