Thanks for the review. I have what I think is the same the same press brake sold as the JEGS 81492 purchased from Amazon. It has worked well for me in the Harbor Freight 20 ton press. More important, as you noticed, thin metal does not bend crisply in the wide die. That's easy to fix. I made two die fillers by machining some angle iron in my mill to fit in the base die. They reduce the die width and work really well with thin metal.
I put on the air over hydraulic cylinder jack. Also the release valve has the knob they came up with. I have the 20 ton one so you can obviously make thicker bends. For the money you can’t beat this combo
After looking at everything available and associated costs I went down the rabbit hole of fabricating my own brake to fit on the HF 20 ton press. Having a top piece that you can clamp any 1/2” tang tooling into gives you a ton of versatility and used tooling can be found for pretty cheap. I even use some 3D printed tooling for some projects.
Air jack is a rally nice upgrade for the press. Got one for my 20T HFT press. Highly recommend. The Swag press plates are worth checking out. Pricey but REALLY strong. Those cast ones that come with the press are an accident waiting to happen. Thanks for the review! That solid bottom form is really nice. Personally, I would have left the springs off, set the top in the bottom, then tightened the bottom bolts.
Another great simple and informative video. I need to make myself a press and brake. Maybe this is the year. One idea I did with one years ago. Make a new plate for the bottom of the bottle jack and clock it 45 degrees so the handle is not over the part. Great video!
Thanks for the video on the new tool. I have plans to fabricate a press but what has been keeping me from fabricating it is the bending anvil 90 degree edge. I have a plate and sawing and filing are not an option for the time involved. I now have a plasma cutter and had the thought that it could facilitate construction and I still may go this route and save on any expenditure. The H.F> press looks ideal. Aluminum bending demands the use of a radius chart and smooth edges. Sand the edges parallel to the the length of the edge with 400 grit sandpaper. Different thicknesses require a different radius meaning thin metal uses a small radius and thick uses a larger radius. Different alloys also require different radius bends. There are charts online showing thickness of the metal, radius required for which alloy of aluminum. 2024 will bend if the requirement are followed and if ignore sanding the edge, it will crack and if not while bending then it will in usage. If you do not know the alloy then you always run the risk of cracking unless you go big with a large radius. 2024 is common for aircraft skin and on some planes in lower stress areas can be as thin as 0.020". I am sure there are thinner sheets use on certain planes. Formaking a small radius on thin sheet aluminum, it is possible to use a piece of the same material and place it on top just before bending, that thickness will then be the radius of your bend. I love working with aluminum. I read the caliper at 0.075" and the vernier scale is at zero not at 5.
I just got one of these after seeing this vid. The major flaw I see with this bender is the press ram is a knife edge without any sort of radius. A small / non existent radius reduces the tonage needed to bend material however it can damage the material leading to cracking later if used in a cyclical loading / vibrating environment. I'm going to contact HF to see if this sharp edge is intended. It would be great if they offered a replacement ram with a decent radius. I'm thinking of making a slip on shoe that increases the radius.
You need that Swag press on knob to tighten and release the pressure. I have the Swag 20 ton version which is like 20" wide. The die on it is 3x3". If i want a tighter radius i place a 2x2" angle iron in the standard die. I them have a 1.5 and 1"x1" I just stack them and press. As soon as you start bending the wiggle stops.
To prevent Aluminum from cracking when bent, anneal it first. Blacken the bend area with Acetylene only flame from your torch. Then use the torch to heat the Aluminum so that the Acetylene soot is just burned off. Always bend at 90o to the roll marks on the Aluminum plate, otherwise the Aluminum will crack for sure.
If you need a larger radius, bend up a few pieces of sheetmetal to place between the dies. Starting from a sharp radius, bend a piece of 1/8" metal 90°, and tape it to the upper die. Now you have an upper die with an 1/8" radius. Bend another piece using the first piece still installed, and you now have a 1/4" die. Taped that one overcthe first one. Mix and match several thicknesses to obtain whatever radius you need, all with scrap pieces of the width you need. You could even tack weld 2 or more pieces at each end after they are bent, to make them a permanent radius, if you use that radius a lot. You can also look up the minimum bend radius of any alloy/heat treatment by its thickness. There are plenty of charts out there.
I've bought a lot of tools from Harbor Freight, always nice to know they have something new worthwhile. That looks real handy and good quality. Thanks for the review!
Good job on the review. Picking one of these up next time they have a coupon deal, if the ever do. I was going to make one but for this price it is worth it to just buy this. Bottom dies are impossibly expensive unless you just make one.
I appreciate your honesty in your description of how this piece performs. I am somewhat hesitant to use tools from HF, however I do own some and of those I have have been generally pleased with them. I have the bigger press than the one you have there and had to make some modifications to get it to stay square and straight when pressing things by adding some HDPE strips to both the inside and sides of the rack posts for the carriage to slide against due to the amount of slop between the ends of the carriage and side posts. Once that was done I have been able to press a number of bearings and bushings that were deeply seated into parts that require them to be removed or installed with extreme accuracy as any variation from plumb or square would cause them to tip or rack and then jam in their housings. I also have a Chicago Electric flux core wire feed welder that is at least 20 years old that has outperformed consistently since I bought it. I think the duty cycle is a handful of minutes before you have to let it cool down and I have exceeded that regularly and by huge amounts and never, not even once, has it thermal tripped on me. I have had to replace the stinger, trigger and liner a couple times over the years, but it still functions well when I am either too lazy or don’t give a crap enough to roll out my big Lincoln or PrimeWeld rigs. I have a friend who has the same welder, but much newer than mine, and I noticed it is far lighter weight and definitely makes you stick to the duty cycle to avoid it shutting down due to thermal issues. I am sure they changed their supplier over the years to lower their costs and increase their profit margin. They are also painted black vs the older blue version like mine. Anyway, thanks for the review. I may add one of these breaks to my shop tool lineup soon. 👍🏻
I was thinking about getting this press brake. Now I will. I use my neighbor's SWAG and it's nice but this looks like a good affordable alternative (and I wont have to borrow tools, lol). To make the brake easy to pull off the press, after the initial push under the anvil, drill a couple holes in the punch tubes and the guide posts to use pins to lock the brake together in the down position.
Pay attention to the grain direction on the aluminum, it makes a difference in the bending. and yes! you need a radiused upper die, maybe 1/4'' radius.
I have the later version of their 20 ton press. I replaced the jack with the air motor version. It really makes a big difference. I have the standard Swag off road box brake. Not terribly hard to put together. But, yup, the radius leaves something to be desired. The steel seems too soft as well. You can get accessory fingers for it which can be really helpful. I do like the die for the HF, but the question is whether it’s hard enough.
I have a homebrew version I built many years ago. For thin metals I use urethan inserts like the Acroform insert. They work great and will make 0 radius bends on 16ga.
I'm curious about how the edge of the top tool is standing up to the repeated bends? I made a 3 1/2 inch wide brake for my press out of truck leaf spring which l normalized. It chews through mild steel without a scratch. My first version made out of mild steel crapped out pretty fast. Thx for sharing. Cheers.
This one looks good after the tests. I have some dings on the SWAG version, mostly from the edges of plasma cut plates which seem to be pretty hard if there's a little dross and I don't hit them with a grinder.
I have the same 20t press as in the video. Same colors and everything. My press has plate steel arbor plates, that were flame cut. And not cast iron arbor plates. No exploding arbor plate hazard.
A few weeks ago I watched a guy, FTR How to make a press brake, but his was built out of odds and ends. It got me thinking how often I wish I had one. Then I started thinking I can't live without one and put it on my list to watch other vids to get the best ideas. Then, POOF! HF drops one like they did the bandsaw stand. Thanks HF for saving the day.... With the overall quality, it looks like they have found a factory that makes decent tool attachments. They have done pretty good with simple products before, but start adding parts that have to mate or match, well.... A few years ago I was in HF and a guy comes in and asks a girl at the register in a belittling way, where the digital venier calipers were? Huh? Tim; your almost asking us if we can use a slide rule... But I do have a few of the Fowlers.
Yes, I can read the vernier caliper. Also use a slide rule. 1st electronic calculator I saw was after I was out of college. Cost $300.00, plugged into 110v, and couldn't do much beyond add, subtract, multiply and divide.
Mike: I guess I didn't use the words still use for some reason... Tim: I thought you had a press brake, but it looks like they made small to fit in the 12t like you have.
Try adding one or two layers of thin .050 to .063 thick layers of aluminum between the 1/4" 6061-T6 and the die. It should help prevent the sharp die from cracking the plate. Thanks for sharing.
I bought the east wood version like 5+ years ago, before I got the HD finger break by swag with the big ass arbor plates. It works good, those nuts on the bottom were annoying until I saw others using it without any arbor plates.
Hi Tim im just a hobby welder for my own stuff. First of all thanks for the review i may have to get one of those 👍. You need to make a knob for the release on your press. You can buy one but you easily make one. It's a game changer if you use your press a lot.
I also notched the corner of my square to fit over fillet welds. I thought it was an obvious thing to do but I've never seen anyone else do it so maybe it isn't. You might want to include that in a tips and tricks video. I upgrade the bleed screws on my hydraulic jacks with knobs. It sounds like a little thing but once you do it you'll wonder why it took you so long.
I made my own press break. Probably 5 years ago, out of necessity. I didn't even know these things were available. And mine goes to full width of my 20 ton press opening. I made a 3/16 plate to match the bottom of my plate compactor. Then I built a hand truck from that plate so I could move my heavy piece of equipment. No pre-made design, no drawings. I just made it work from a vision in my head. Thanks for the review on this harbor freight tool. Don't think it would help me on my project. It's not wide enough.
if you put some heat on the 6061 aluminum it will bend just fine. Doesnt have to be terribly hot either, a few passes with a hand propane torch is more than enough
Wow, I must have missed the news on them coming out with this! price point seems good enough that you could buy a couple and cut some reliefs in to make it work for pan and box as well and then just swap it out for the full length if needed.
Reading calipers like that, youd start at the reading closest to the left of the 0 marking on the bottom side, then you find the closest exact match of line and add that, each denomination being in the thousandths place. Edit: example being that piece you have is .084
Take a thin sheet (1/8") steel and bend it 90 or more, then try bending the 1/4 6061 with the 'spacer' which will give you a better radius and probably no cracking; 6061 is a pain.
@@TimWelds In my youth we built high voltage systems that required corona rings. We made them from aluminum tube. We would take them to a shop for annealing and then pick them up and rush to the shop that would roll them. Apparently Al will start getting harder on its own.
Tim, The reason that .25” aluminum tore is simple. With cast plate, you have no idea which way the grain of the metal is going and you were trying to bend a radius smaller than the thickness of the flat bar. Any Machinist will point out material is too thick for that radius. Also try a 2000 series aluminum for this stuff and tight bends.😊
That would be much better. I have an air over hydraulic cylinder on my tubing bender and it's really nice. I might look for a little air over hydraulic cylinder to put on this brake with my own custom frame.
It would've been nice if you put the harbor freight item number in your description. Simply because on the harbor freight app, you can't even find this item.
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Thanks for the review. I have what I think is the same the same press brake sold as the JEGS 81492 purchased from Amazon. It has worked well for me in the Harbor Freight 20 ton press. More important, as you noticed, thin metal does not bend crisply in the wide die. That's easy to fix. I made two die fillers by machining some angle iron in my mill to fit in the base die. They reduce the die width and work really well with thin metal.
Just so you know, you can calculate this, as the die opening width is only supposed to 8x the thickness of the metal being bent.
6061 aluminum is usually supplied with a T6 heat treatment. You can anneal it before bending to get a better result.
Your videos are clear, with good sound quality and video lighting! Thanks for your time to produce.
I put on the air over hydraulic cylinder jack. Also the release valve has the knob they came up with. I have the 20 ton one so you can obviously make thicker bends. For the money you can’t beat this combo
After looking at everything available and associated costs I went down the rabbit hole of fabricating my own brake to fit on the HF 20 ton press. Having a top piece that you can clamp any 1/2” tang tooling into gives you a ton of versatility and used tooling can be found for pretty cheap. I even use some 3D printed tooling for some projects.
Air jack is a rally nice upgrade for the press. Got one for my 20T HFT press. Highly recommend.
The Swag press plates are worth checking out. Pricey but REALLY strong. Those cast ones that come with the press are an accident waiting to happen.
Thanks for the review! That solid bottom form is really nice. Personally, I would have left the springs off, set the top in the bottom, then tightened the bottom bolts.
My HF 20T came with steel plates.
Great timing! I was just about to go buy this, but then i thought I should wait for a review first. Thanks Tim!
Another great simple and informative video. I need to make myself a press and brake. Maybe this is the year. One idea I did with one years ago. Make a new plate for the bottom of the bottle jack and clock it 45 degrees so the handle is not over the part. Great video!
Thanks for the video on the new tool. I have plans to fabricate a press but what has been keeping me from fabricating it is the bending anvil 90 degree edge. I have a plate and sawing and filing are not an option for the time involved. I now have a plasma cutter and had the thought that it could facilitate construction and I still may go this route and save on any expenditure. The H.F> press looks ideal.
Aluminum bending demands the use of a radius chart and smooth edges. Sand the edges parallel to the the length of the edge with 400 grit sandpaper. Different thicknesses require a different radius meaning thin metal uses a small radius and thick uses a larger radius. Different alloys also require different radius bends. There are charts online showing thickness of the metal, radius required for which alloy of aluminum. 2024 will bend if the requirement are followed and if ignore sanding the edge, it will crack and if not while bending then it will in usage. If you do not know the alloy then you always run the risk of cracking unless you go big with a large radius. 2024 is common for aircraft skin and on some planes in lower stress areas can be as thin as 0.020". I am sure there are thinner sheets use on certain planes. Formaking a small radius on thin sheet aluminum, it is possible to use a piece of the same material and place it on top just before bending, that thickness will then be the radius of your bend. I love working with aluminum.
I read the caliper at 0.075" and the vernier scale is at zero not at 5.
please revise and shorten your statement
Nice video. I particularly appreciate comparison with other brand. Being able to split the bottom die would be a plus. I will probably get one !
Thanks for the review.
I just got one of these after seeing this vid.
The major flaw I see with this bender is the press ram is a knife edge without any sort of radius. A small / non existent radius reduces the tonage needed to bend material however it can damage the material leading to cracking later if used in a cyclical loading / vibrating environment.
I'm going to contact HF to see if this sharp edge is intended. It would be great if they offered a replacement ram with a decent radius. I'm thinking of making a slip on shoe that increases the radius.
Good video, thanks for sharing. 👍🇺🇸👍
Great review.
You need that Swag press on knob to tighten and release the pressure. I have the Swag 20 ton version which is like 20" wide. The die on it is 3x3". If i want a tighter radius i place a 2x2" angle iron in the standard die. I them have a 1.5 and 1"x1" I just stack them and press. As soon as you start bending the wiggle stops.
For the Canadians here like me. Princess Auto (Canadian version of Harbor Freight) sell this same brake under ProPoint brand name.
Very cool. I have the larger swag brake that i welded. It is a very handy tool. It's good to see an option that can be picked up locally
The big SWAG brakes are really nice.
To prevent Aluminum from cracking when bent, anneal it first. Blacken the bend area with Acetylene only flame from your torch. Then use the torch to heat the Aluminum so that the Acetylene soot is just burned off. Always bend at 90o to the roll marks on the Aluminum plate, otherwise the Aluminum will crack for sure.
If you need a larger radius, bend up a few pieces of sheetmetal to place between the dies.
Starting from a sharp radius, bend a piece of 1/8" metal 90°, and tape it to the upper die. Now you have an upper die with an 1/8" radius.
Bend another piece using the first piece still installed, and you now have a 1/4" die. Taped that one overcthe first one.
Mix and match several thicknesses to obtain whatever radius you need, all with scrap pieces of the width you need.
You could even tack weld 2 or more pieces at each end after they are bent, to make them a permanent radius, if you use that radius a lot.
You can also look up the minimum bend radius of any alloy/heat treatment by its thickness. There are plenty of charts out there.
Great tip! Thanks!
@TimWelds 😁👍
I've bought a lot of tools from Harbor Freight, always nice to know they have something new worthwhile. That looks real handy and good quality. Thanks for the review!
Thank you.
Good job on the review. Picking one of these up next time they have a coupon deal, if the ever do. I was going to make one but for this price it is worth it to just buy this. Bottom dies are impossibly expensive unless you just make one.
good value , make a small frame for it and porta power and its a handy semi mobile bending rig
Thank you
What is the dimension of the die "vee" opening?
I wonder if the punch and die are heat treated and to what hardness?
I appreciate your honesty in your description of how this piece performs. I am somewhat hesitant to use tools from HF, however I do own some and of those I have have been generally pleased with them. I have the bigger press than the one you have there and had to make some modifications to get it to stay square and straight when pressing things by adding some HDPE strips to both the inside and sides of the rack posts for the carriage to slide against due to the amount of slop between the ends of the carriage and side posts. Once that was done I have been able to press a number of bearings and bushings that were deeply seated into parts that require them to be removed or installed with extreme accuracy as any variation from plumb or square would cause them to tip or rack and then jam in their housings. I also have a Chicago Electric flux core wire feed welder that is at least 20 years old that has outperformed consistently since I bought it. I think the duty cycle is a handful of minutes before you have to let it cool down and I have exceeded that regularly and by huge amounts and never, not even once, has it thermal tripped on me. I have had to replace the stinger, trigger and liner a couple times over the years, but it still functions well when I am either too lazy or don’t give a crap enough to roll out my big Lincoln or PrimeWeld rigs. I have a friend who has the same welder, but much newer than mine, and I noticed it is far lighter weight and definitely makes you stick to the duty cycle to avoid it shutting down due to thermal issues. I am sure they changed their supplier over the years to lower their costs and increase their profit margin. They are also painted black vs the older blue version like mine. Anyway, thanks for the review. I may add one of these breaks to my shop tool lineup soon. 👍🏻
I was thinking about getting this press brake. Now I will. I use my neighbor's SWAG and it's nice but this looks like a good affordable alternative (and I wont have to borrow tools, lol). To make the brake easy to pull off the press, after the initial push under the anvil, drill a couple holes in the punch tubes and the guide posts to use pins to lock the brake together in the down position.
Thanks for testing all those types of materials!
Pay attention to the grain direction on the aluminum, it makes a difference in the bending. and yes! you need a radiused upper die, maybe 1/4'' radius.
Just saw they came out with this a week or so ago and there weren't any reviews yet. Glad you're doing this review
I’m in Washington state and not seeing the item on the app. What are you guys looking up to find the item?
What brand is that angle finder you used to check the bend after pressing the mild steel?
It's an iGaging from Amazon. I have a few of them, I put a link in the description for the one that I think is the best value.
I have the later version of their 20 ton press. I replaced the jack with the air motor version. It really makes a big difference. I have the standard Swag off road box brake. Not terribly hard to put together. But, yup, the radius leaves something to be desired. The steel seems too soft as well. You can get accessory fingers for it which can be really helpful. I do like the die for the HF, but the question is whether it’s hard enough.
I didn't check the hardness, it looks fine after the few tests, but it might be worth running a file over to see how hard it is.
I have a homebrew version I built many years ago. For thin metals I use urethan inserts like the Acroform insert. They work great and will make 0 radius bends on 16ga.
I'm curious about how the edge of the top tool is standing up to the repeated bends? I made a 3 1/2 inch wide brake for my press out of truck leaf spring which l normalized. It chews through mild steel without a scratch. My first version made out of mild steel crapped out pretty fast. Thx for sharing. Cheers.
This one looks good after the tests. I have some dings on the SWAG version, mostly from the edges of plasma cut plates which seem to be pretty hard if there's a little dross and I don't hit them with a grinder.
Have you got a link for this. Haven’t ever seen at HF nor can I find on website. Even searched the part number in video.
Nice !
Thanks Peter! Hope your new year is off to a great start.
Vernier scale calibers and micrometers are the only kind I have. ;)
Anneal the T6 out of that 6061 & it will bend fine. Put some soot on it, you can even use a candle. Heat until the soot goes away. Bend it.
I have the same 20t press as in the video. Same colors and everything. My press has plate steel arbor plates, that were flame cut. And not cast iron arbor plates. No exploding arbor plate hazard.
I don’t see this on the harbor freight site. Do you have the link? Thx
A few weeks ago I watched a guy, FTR How to make a press brake, but his was built out of odds and ends. It got me thinking how often I wish I had one. Then I started thinking I can't live without one and put it on my list to watch other vids to get the best ideas. Then, POOF! HF drops one like they did the bandsaw stand. Thanks HF for saving the day....
With the overall quality, it looks like they have found a factory that makes decent tool attachments. They have done pretty good with simple products before, but start adding parts that have to mate or match, well....
A few years ago I was in HF and a guy comes in and asks a girl at the register in a belittling way, where the digital venier calipers were? Huh? Tim; your almost asking us if we can use a slide rule... But I do have a few of the Fowlers.
Yes, I can read the vernier caliper. Also use a slide rule. 1st electronic calculator I saw was after I was out of college. Cost $300.00, plugged into 110v, and couldn't do much beyond add, subtract, multiply and divide.
Mike: I guess I didn't use the words still use for some reason...
Tim: I thought you had a press brake, but it looks like they made small to fit in the 12t like you have.
It is best to center the work piece under the ram. Great review, Thanks.
Try annealing the 6061 first?
Try adding one or two layers of thin .050 to .063 thick layers of aluminum between the 1/4" 6061-T6 and the die. It should help prevent the sharp die from cracking the plate. Thanks for sharing.
Bench top press video sounds good. 👍
I bought the east wood version like 5+ years ago, before I got the HD finger break by swag with the big ass arbor plates.
It works good, those nuts on the bottom were annoying until I saw others using it without any arbor plates.
I’m jealous of the lower 48 prices. That would be no less than $500 in Alaska. 🤦♂️
I would agree it reads to be 0.08
The radius on the shoe needs to be bigger. Shoe radius makes bigger differnce on the radius than the punch
Great review brother
Hi Tim im just a hobby welder for my own stuff. First of all thanks for the review i may have to get one of those 👍. You need to make a knob for the release on your press. You can buy one but you easily make one. It's a game changer if you use your press a lot.
Thanks for sharing!
What brand bandsaw is that in the background behind you in this video? You should do a video on that. Thanks great information!!
Decent looking brake but I need at least 24" and preferably a finger brake.
Looks like a good cheap option.
I also notched the corner of my square to fit over fillet welds. I thought it was an obvious thing to do but I've never seen anyone else do it so maybe it isn't. You might want to include that in a tips and tricks video. I upgrade the bleed screws on my hydraulic jacks with knobs. It sounds like a little thing but once you do it you'll wonder why it took you so long.
I think a knob would be really helpful.
Could you heat up the thick aluminum before bending to prevent it from cracking?
To narrow the die, could you not use a piece of angle iron?
Got one 2 days ago (of course this video pops up) its pretty solid
👍
Looks pretty nice, may have to add it to my wish list For how often I'd use it, the price is ok and it probably has enough capacity.
Did HF already release this? I don’t see it on the app.
I made one and works well good add on for h press
Has anyone found this press brake on harbor freight? I can’t find it
Yep. They have it mounted in one of the presses.
@ yeah I finally found it thanks
I made my own press break. Probably 5 years ago, out of necessity. I didn't even know these things were available. And mine goes to full width of my 20 ton press opening. I made a 3/16 plate to match the bottom of my plate compactor. Then I built a hand truck from that plate so I could move my heavy piece of equipment. No pre-made design, no drawings. I just made it work from a vision in my head. Thanks for the review on this harbor freight tool. Don't think it would help me on my project. It's not wide enough.
if you put some heat on the 6061 aluminum it will bend just fine. Doesnt have to be terribly hot either, a few passes with a hand propane torch is more than enough
I’m in Washington state and not seeing the item on the HF app. What are you guys looking up to find the item?
What if you annealed the area to be bent prior to bending on the 6061?
The press looks good, but the red digital level/protractor that I bought from HF has a significant error such that I ditched it.
My first set of calipers was a central too vernier calipers from Montgomery Ward
Awesome! The ones in the video were my Dad's. He made me learn to read those quickly before he ever allowed me near anything digital.
Do you still feel it can do the 3/8" up to 12" long in mild steel?
It's only rated to handle 3" long bends in 3/8" mild steel.
I read your vernier caliper to be 0.082in.
Thanks for the review.
Where’s my slide rule ?
I do not know where your slide rule is hiding, but mine is on a shelf to my right. Purchased when in high school back in the late 60's.
Dial calipers have gotten so cheap that verniers seem to be going away. I have vernier gradations on my mics. (.0001)
Wow, I must have missed the news on them coming out with this! price point seems good enough that you could buy a couple and cut some reliefs in to make it work for pan and box as well and then just swap it out for the full length if needed.
That's a great idea!
Really enjoyed your video. Wasn't aware they had this. If you make a follow-up, how about adding a fence and a back stop?
You Would Be Hard "Pressed" to One up this Video 😎
Great test video, Tim. Since I don't have a hydraulic press in my shop, I would like to see a tabletop conversion if you're so inclined.
Not bad for $150.
Thanks
I've bent a lot of metal. Smooth and radius your edges and you'll have a lot fewer cracks.
Y'all see Eric Smidts house?
Use a Sharpe. Tape measure and Sharpe.
I find it is a lot easier to use an air jack in my press. No pumping that way.
Reading calipers like that, youd start at the reading closest to the left of the 0 marking on the bottom side, then you find the closest exact match of line and add that, each denomination being in the thousandths place.
Edit: example being that piece you have is .084
What is the width of the top of the bottom v?
Take a thin sheet (1/8") steel and bend it 90 or more, then try bending the 1/4 6061 with the 'spacer' which will give you a better radius and probably no cracking; 6061 is a pain.
Aneal the aluminum to 0. It comes as T6.
It would definitely be better to bend in a softer condition.
@@TimWelds In my youth we built high voltage systems that required corona rings. We made them from aluminum tube. We would take them to a shop for annealing and then pick them up and rush to the shop that would roll them. Apparently Al will start getting harder on its own.
Tim,
The reason that .25” aluminum tore is simple. With cast plate, you have no idea which way the grain of the metal is going and you were trying to bend a radius smaller than the thickness of the flat bar. Any Machinist will point out material is too thick for that radius. Also try a 2000 series aluminum for this stuff and tight bends.😊
If you use lubricant, it works out better. And if you were around the edges on the V,works a lot better.
If you made a video about what all the numbers mean on metal types, I'd watch the heck out of it.
You put a thinner piece in,bend it , tape to upper die , this will increase bending radius
Great tip! Thanks!
Put some oil on metal before bending it.
Now they just need to make one for the 20 ton press!
Now if the hydraulic press was air over hydraulic or Electro hydraulic it would be just about perfect
That would be much better. I have an air over hydraulic cylinder on my tubing bender and it's really nice. I might look for a little air over hydraulic cylinder to put on this brake with my own custom frame.
With a 20 ton press, should be smooth....
Heat the 6060 alu until you can write onto it with a wood pin, then bend it. Use gloves
It would've been nice if you put the harbor freight item number in your description. Simply because on the harbor freight app, you can't even find this item.
Old school guy here, Google how to read a vernier caliper.
Put some heat to that aluminum
07:47 2 mm 😊
Nothing more than a folding machine for aluminum foil -made in China no less