Update on Niche Kit \\ Raptor 660 Top End Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 4 фев 2025
- Just a quick update on the jug kit that I bought that I had a few questions about since I haven't had time to upload anything for a while.
RAPTOR 660 SERVICE MANUAL PDF:
drive.google.c...
Hey just watched this and my brothers 300ex did that exact thing with the cutting out
Couldn't figure it out had carb professionally cleaned and rebuilt changed jets around never could figure it out until we replaced the carb and bam! Ran like a champ and still does
Break in process is the biggest thing when pertaining to cheaper engine parts as such. If it specs out and works awesome! But break it in like its a brand new engine with care and ease and everything should settle in just fine. Gaskets and all. On to ur bogging issue. If u r certain it is not a rev limiter activating due to a malfunction or short or some shit. Then id say ur probably still lean in the carbs. These carbs especially the stock duel setup are one of the biggest pains in the ass to set up correctly. Not only that but every wheeler is going to be a little different even in identical conditions they will vary slightly somewhere. Set float height, run a 27.5 pilot in both carbs, i personally have the dynojet stage 2 kit in mine with the 148/150 jets and the aftermarket needles and springs they offer with my clips set on the very bottom of the 6 clip settings. Meaning my clips are set to lift the needle as high as possible for the most fuel input available. I have slightly softer springs in the tops of the carbs, and a homemade intake tube system, with my carb daiphram tubes just venting out through a filter instead of running back into the intake tube and a very open airbox( virtually non existant) and a full higher flowing exhaust. Ported intake manifold boots also. And my pro flow k&n filter had one of those outerwear covers on it. When cold it occasionally will want to blehh if revved to quick in neutral but after a couple minutes its fine the rest of the time. And it likes to fly! Lol. Intake vacuum leaks before and after the carb r killers of good idle and low rpm issues as well. And make sure the little filters on ur petcock limes inside the tank arent clogged with shit and u have good fuel flow at all times. Make sure the petcock itself isnt leaking fuel out or air IN to the system. The correct orientation on your needle clip settings is super important also. U must have the washers and spacers in the proper order. Also make extra sure that your emulsion tubes in the carbs are not upside down (new carbs fresh out the box have them backwards sometimes to) if its in backward u will have a 1/4 to 1/2 bog issue thatll drive u crazy trying to find. Ask how i know.... lol grind clean every engine or frame or battery ground possible. Make sure your kill switch on right handle bar isn't corroded or making loose contacts inside of it. And go ahead and ground the green and white wire for the reverse to rule out that being an issue! Hope this helps Goodluck
I've gotten mine to run great since this video and it was just running too lean still 🙃 still riding it to this day with the Niche Kit and the cheap carbs, will be until they break then ill go back to OEM lol most of your info is what people are begging to know because they want jet sizes which I dont have on these cheap carbs
It has to do alot on how u break it in too after the build...just throwing it out there
Sounds to me you need to adjust your clips on the needles I have been running a dyno jet stage 2 jet kit in mine since I bought it new back in 01 and have never had any problem with them
i ordered the same kit but mine has an issue with the exhaust manifold… how did you get around this?
I’m having jet problems to but it’s from idol to 1/4, idols fine and when you get it to take off it runs fine but at the start off it Bogs down until you can force the fuel in there and get enough RPMs to take off
You said you had brand new carbs. Are the new ones the cheap Chinese carbs? I ask because I had this exact issue and I went back to factory carbs and rebuilt them and the problem disappeared
My 2 stroke is doing that half throttle redline right now too
Why do big bore kits require case boring when the description says direct bolt on??
ima joke about this but this man gotta baby face with a beard 🧔♂️ love it
If I shave I'm back to looking 15 again lol my baby face is insane
@@Hunters_Mechanics 👊
Do you think maybe it is the rev limiter? You probably already checked that but so many other people made vids on this and it fixed the same symptoms.
Down below the sprocket it’s 2 wires that’s the reason it’s doing it to your Atv you need to replace those 2 wires I had the same problem tell I changed the
im about to do this raptor that i bought. fires right up but smokes like a chimney. figuring its prolly the rings. the stock from the surface appears to be fairly new and someone put a brand new valve cover on it. when i rebuild this thing should i use the stock jug amd just have it machined or go to a cheaper kit like what u got. is the niche kit well built im assuming the stock cylinder could just be cleaned up and go again but i wanted some input. thanks
I will always go with oem parts if I have them and they are in good condition. Getting that cylinder honed or even bored would be cheaper than buying a kit. I would have reused mine if it didn't have that catastrophic failure.
@@Hunters_Mechanics thats what i was thinking! thanks a ton. pretty sure they put somehing together wrong and its out of time too. thanks again
@@ashleyfahrni the one I'm gonna get for my 2004 Yamaha kodiak 400 4x4 is gonna run me about 119 and I was wanting to make sure it was worth the money thanks appreciate the help
@@ashleyfahrni the one I'm gonna get for my 2004 Yamaha kodiak 400 4x4 is gonna run me about 119 and I was wanting to make sure it was worth the money thanks appreciate the help
I didnt see the first video of this rebuild what size jug did you put in and what size jets are in it now
Its tf he stock size (659 I believe) and literally of these jets (because they came with a carb rebuild kit) are not stamped anywhere with any numbers which is frustrating
Well I did exaust air box and carb done to my 660 and I have a 27 pilot jet 155 and 160 mains with 3 1/2 turns out on the fuel screw and runs like a champ
@@gabeshiffer3158 I'm tempted to fork up the money for the jet kit for this because mix matching the jets does not seem to work lol and it should be easy to narrow it down since yours and others are very close to each other
Yeah I put a dyno stage 2 jet kit in mine it was only $50 on amazone I think. It's not the jets that separates them from the others it's the needle that makes the difference. I think that will help you out alot. Hope to hear back if it helps
Rebuilt mine with the same kit. Also have the same carb as you.... you have to get the OEM jets if you want to get it jetted properly
Supposedly two of the kits I bought were 'oem jet sizes', but I have it running near perfect now, I swapped to the biggest main jet i have and the lowest needle position
Glad to hear! Appreciate the videos man... you saved me with the timing video !
@@stevenyoung3513 Glad I could help buddy!
have you broke it yet?? i have the same kit and piston and cylinder kit and i heard it blows the sleeve out of the cylinder i have the original cylinder and piston but i want to use the niche.
Mine has not, ive only got 20 hours on it though. I've blown a head gasket because my head was warped and I've just decided to rebuild the bottom end so I haven't been able to get more hours on it. Upon tearing it down though, everything looks still brand new
Did you you the stock jugg? Or the big bore jugg? Got mine tore completely apart I couldn’t get it to start so I’m going to tear motor down!
I used the niche jug since my stock jug is the one that failed
@@Hunters_Mechanics with all the stock specs on it? And how much did it run you!?
So I got mine and it’s got spark new carb new stator,batter,solenoid. And I can’t get it to start it’ll just keep turning. And if you “flood” it it’ll spit fireball and keep turning you have any advise
@@chaselogan3153 sounds like the timing is off, or you didn't adjust the valves. Thats where id start
@@Hunters_Mechanics the valves were right the only thing I didn’t check was the timing which was next
I plan on getting this kit for my 08 Arctic cat 400 4x4
Did you really ever try it or what
Adjust air screw on bottom of carb screw it all the way in and one and a half turns out
and how does the Niche set work over time? I want to buy but I'm looking for opinions. Greetings from Poland
Out of all the things that have broken since this video, none of it was caused by the niche kit! As of right now, the cylinder and piston still look brand new and I'm quite surprised how well it has done. It hasn't smoked (other than when my head gasket blew because of my head being warped) and it hasn't knocked or made any noises. I would definitely look the kit over and compare the specs to the values out of the manual before installing but for me, it has been a fantastic cheap kit. And that's great to know my videos have reached that far!
When putting a big bore kit on my factory 660 can I ease the same head and do I need to change my jets in the carb
Yes you can use the same head, you will have to change the jets because you're using a bigger piston, and in most cases, raising compression
looking to do this on my 2004 Yamaha kodiak 400 I think the piston rings are worn out tho when I got it from a old ex friend i drove it a little and didnt notice to much smoking so it could also be the valve seals I'm only paying 119$ for mine when I order it
Whats the plug showing?
My 2001 smokes when it starts up whats yr opionon? Valves n seals or wrings
Could be either or, can't tell without tearing it down and finding out!
i had a kinked fuel line that did this check for cloged fuel filter
Dynojet kit will fix you jetting issues
Needles and slide springs probably.
Did you ever figure out the fuel/bogging issue? Great video.
I did finally, I got the jets finally situated but I had a major issue happen that I'll be discussing hopefully soon when I get time.
@@Hunters_Mechanics I cant remember exactly but there is a bad safety somewhere that controls the throttle to keep it from over revving I believe it's the reverse switch. They can act up and cause it to run like that and you'll think it's the carburetor. So if itever happens again keep that in mind. Sometimes you'll find it someone already has it jumped out
@@twiz8789 that happened to my o5
Sync the carbs?
I ended up figuring it out, ran the largest main jets i had with the needles for them set all the way down to provide the most fuel, ran great after that!
Hey do you still use this kit?
Yep, still do! I fixed a lot of cooling issues with my Raptor and that seems to have fixed most of my issues I had
Is it a 686cc bored
Stock size
@@Hunters_Mechanics is it any good
The bogging is to rich you need smaller mains remember one carb gets one size larger jet then the other that's the entire reason for the 5valve
Rev limiters?
I finally got it fixed, it happened to be my main jets not being large enough. I slapped in the largest ones I had and she runs amazingly now!
@@Hunters_Mechanics Is your top end still holding up good?
@@johnstamper2965 So far so good, I took the engine out of it several months ago to rebuild the bottom end for youtube purposes and for a fresh start on the engine. The niche kit components still look brand new
@@Hunters_Mechanics That's good because my Raptor has the same niche jug and I have been wondering about durability.
@@johnstamper2965 just make sure you check everything over with the manual, like ring clearance, piston clearance etc before putting all together
Have you figured out the problem? If no I can give you the solution
I did, I ended up swapping my biggest main jet in and lowering the needle position and got it running great
What is your solution I’m having the same problem
Did you ever figure out the carburetor problem? I have a raptor too and I’m having trouble with the carburetors as well
I ended up running the largest main jets that I had and the lowest position on the needles for both carbs. Still acts like it could use more fuel but runs great enough for hard riding
@@Hunters_Mechanics The new carburetors you put on were they that Amazon or eBay affordable ones from China because I just ordered some and was wondering if there any good
@@DontTreadOnMe-ig3pc Yep, ordered mine from amazon for like $47, so far they haven't let me down, just the 4 wheeler itself being stubborn when I tried tuning lol
@@Hunters_Mechanics awesome I hope I have the same luck with those carburetors appreciate your help buddy
@@DontTreadOnMe-ig3pc yea I just ordered one for my 2004 Yamaha kodiak because my old ex buddy lost the bottom half of the carburetor like the needle valve the float got broke the pin and screw that hold the pin in place and I think his older brother got mad at him and cracked the bottom of the float bolw tho I just fixed that with some JB WELD lmao
I’m running 55/60 on pilots and on mains I’m 160/165
With a 686 big boretop end and stock bottom end? Stage2 hotcams?
PR3TTY BOI 686 big bore as far as I’m aware stock bottom end and I have the stage 2 hot cam just not installed. I’m waiting on heavy duty springs and a port and polish job before I do that and I didn’t want to miss riding season
Thanks for the information on the NICHE cylinder. I've got one on order myself and anxious to try it. I decided to go with Wiseco pistons but it sure helps saving some money on the cylinder. Two thoughts to consider for your carb. First would be to put the correct pilots back in. Stock size is 22.5/22.5 and at most 25/25 - even with big bore kit. 55/60 is either a typo or waaay to big for dual carb setup. Second step involves the float. Set the level using the clear tube method. You can Google "raptor 660 clear tube method" and there is a good write up on Raptorforum by Freeze explaining this in detail. It solved multiple issues for me that I would not have guessed was related to the float. Once you've done both of those two things, then you can dial in your main jets and needle setting. Good luck!
I reccomend getting stage 3 hotcams if your going to grab the big bore kit
Good video
Put yzf 450 shocks
This is called a Red barn build.
--Sounds like over fueling to rich a mixture, just an idea.
Well the thing is, when I ran smaller jets, it ran much, much worse. The larger jets that I ended up running, the better it ran. Currently I'm running the largest main jet I have with the needle allowing the most fuel it can and it runs open throttle
It’s it stock carb
Stock style carbs, the jets that came with the carbs and the rebuild kits I bought awhile back were supposedly 'stock jets' but literally all of them are different.
@@Hunters_Mechanics did you get the jets figured out? I'm having the same problem with mine not having mid to topend. I also have the niche 102mm kit.
@@Ultimateduster I had to go with the absolute biggest main jet I had (it doesnt have the sized stamped on it or else I'd tell you the size) and I had to adjust the diaphragm needle to the lowest point to allow maximum fuel in. Its rides amazingly with just me hauling ass but add another person and trying to haul it just craves more fuel. If you have a larger main, try it and change the needles position and see if you gain any more throttle
@@Hunters_Mechanics whats your elevation? Im at 5300 ft and it being around 100 everyday I should be jetting low but because of the big bore, slip on exhaust, k & n filter, and air box mod it should go up. I tried keeping the 22.5 pilot jets and going to 170 mains but still bogged at high end. Since the pilots feed throughout all the ranges I think I may bump up to 25s or 27.5s and see. I was told by a few mechanics though I'll never get ot right without buying a jet kit with the upgraded needles because of the taper.
@@Ultimateduster I'd assume you let it warm up completely before riding, even when its 95 here, mine still doesn't reach high throttle till 5 mins down the road. Honestly obnoxious. Have you tried running without your air filter and air box cover? Obviously dont do it if it's too dusty where you are but it gives you a great idea of if you have too much fuel and adding more air helps, or makes it worse. If it doesnt make a difference then I'd try that larger pilot and adjust your needle and see if any direction helps. I found out my good range by going the extremes on the jets and the needles, so started with the smallest jets, highest position on needle, then moved to highest jets, lowest position on the needle. What ever one ran better I took it slow from there and took ages for me to get it right because this 4 wheeler is picky. Let me know how it goes buddy!
*chain breaks*
literally, literally like literally
i ordered the same kit but mine has an issue with the exhaust manifold… how did you get around this?
Hey do you still use this kit?