Yes we often warm the panels prior to work, it helps reduce the risk of the paint fracturing but also helps glue adhere to the panel and in some cases with sharp dents it helps the panel move easier too!
There are no dumb questions when learning something new... Usually the fog line will pinch up and be brighter when its 'high' so it may appear narrower at one point in the reflection and that is the high section
Congratulations good explanation! I personally did not adapt to the lines, but it is a good choice for those who adapt, and I advise you to test both ways.
With lines a high spot like a crown or high after pulling would read as a pinch (as opposed to a bulge for low spots) in the parallel lines, correct? What are we looking for with fog if we are correcting a remaining high spot? Since low causes a shadow is high more of a highlighted area? I see pros and cons to both - someone else said it in the comments that checking the dent with both seems like a great idea, especially to ensure 100% removal while learning.. Thanks for the great videos!
Yes you are correct, high spots in lines will appear like a pinch, the lines will be closer together over the 'high' area, this is similar with fog though if there is a high then the fog line will be 'pinched' or narrower at the high spot area, thank you for your comment and feedback, i hope that helps!
Hi Tom. Thanks for another great video. Do u know of any light boards that plug into the mains rather than into the cars lighter socket? Just looking for a cheaper option than the battery powered boards for now as tools are really expensive. Thanks again👍
Thanks Adam, I don’t know of any that come with a mains plug but if you don’t want to use the cars socket you can either get adapters that connect to a car battery and then carry around your own car battery, this is quite popular to allow you to move around easily but often you see these set ups on a trolley stand as the batteries can weigh a fair bit, alternatively you can get mains adapters that plug straight into the wall socket but have an adapter to receive a car lighter socket. This could be a good option for you but you just need to check the input/output voltage to check all compatible. There are plenty of adapters on eBay/amazon but I have never tried myself to be able to personally recommend... 👍🏻
To add to Toms comment. When I started pdr I used a household fluorescent light fixing with a tube, mounted this vertically on a wood stand and it was a mains fixing Hope this helps
@@dentremover01 thankyou. When I did my course last September the course lead said that's how he did it when he started. I tried with a strip light on a stand but couldn't really see the dent properly. Seemed to manage better with a fog but they're so expensive. I've got 300 set aside towards a light up to now, but seems the more I practice the more I realise that I need more tools to be able to finish the dents off so I could do with investing in more rods too (I've got around 15 I think) Would love to have a bit more training, I feel like I've definitely improved since my 5 day course but it would be nice to have just a little guidance as I'm practicing. Just someone to say if I'm doing something wrong etc. It's all really expensive (training/tools) I watch all the videos yourself and Tom put on RUclips and they definitely help so thanks for that. Just need to keep practicing which I am doing. Got the whole day tomorrow set aside to finish off a bodyline dent I made on the boot, so if you're in the Sunderland area tomorrow and you can hear someone crying on his drive its probably me haha. Cheers for the advice. I really do appreciate it all 👍👍👍
The answer here for me is to keep changing your board position regularly, cross checking your work from either side throughout the repair, its easy to set up the board once and work all the damage out and then reposition but often you can then miss what is happening with the removal and over push in the wrong place without releasing tension as you go, as well as moving left to right you can also push your board further back from you to show a new perspective of the repair as you begin the finishing stages
Just getting started and I got both and I still can't make my mind up I switch back and forth constantly and the quality of the light seems to play a big part also
Seems to fog light is better for intuitively getting a sense of the direction of the dent, while the line board is better towards the final stages in being able to distinguish the small variations-
Hey Raymond, we've just wrapped up our latest launch but if you are interested you can join our wait list to be amongst the first to know the next enrolment dates! - www.learnpdronline.com/lpo-membership-launch-special/
Depends on the damage to be honest, for line dents I like to have my board at an 45' angle to create a zigzag in the reflection, this helps me see the centre line but for circle dents il usually have lined up parallel to the lines to help me see how the metal around the dent is moving
I am still lost when it comes to getting panels straight. I have inherited a land rover discovery 1992 with lots of dents and am having a job to decide how to tackle them.
Hi Laurence, PDR is not easy and does take time to learn but is rewarding in many ways. Land rovers are difficult because most panels are aluminium, most trainees learn with steel as it is easier to work with and then move on to aluminium panels once they have some experience. Land rovers are tricky due to the aluminium but also a lot of the panels are riveted on so finding a straight panel is near on impossible. If you are learning PDR then practise panels such as bonnets are in my opinion the best way to learn and I would definitely start with steel!
Very good explanation of the difference between the two. I’m really glad that I signed up for your training.
Thanks Larry, its great to have you in the group and I'm really excited for you to keep learning more and more about PDR!
QUESTION: Might it be beneficial to use a hair dryer to heat the dent before working it? Thanks
Yes we often warm the panels prior to work, it helps reduce the risk of the paint fracturing but also helps glue adhere to the panel and in some cases with sharp dents it helps the panel move easier too!
100% especially if the dent is sharp or aluminum.
Great vid, how to do spot the high spot on fog lighting . I don’t know if it’s a dumb question I’m getting my feet wet with PDR.
There are no dumb questions when learning something new... Usually the fog line will pinch up and be brighter when its 'high' so it may appear narrower at one point in the reflection and that is the high section
Merci beaucoup pour les explications et l'utilisation entre une lampe à bandes et une board line, beaucoup de pédagogie.
Thank you for your comment I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it informative!
Thanks
You're welcome!
Congratulations good explanation! I personally did not adapt to the lines, but it is a good choice for those who adapt, and I advise you to test both ways.
Thanks Pedro and I agree.. Its definitely good to try both lines and fog to see which works best for you.
With lines a high spot like a crown or high after pulling would read as a pinch (as opposed to a bulge for low spots) in the parallel lines, correct? What are we looking for with fog if we are correcting a remaining high spot? Since low causes a shadow is high more of a highlighted area? I see pros and cons to both - someone else said it in the comments that checking the dent with both seems like a great idea, especially to ensure 100% removal while learning.. Thanks for the great videos!
Yes you are correct, high spots in lines will appear like a pinch, the lines will be closer together over the 'high' area, this is similar with fog though if there is a high then the fog line will be 'pinched' or narrower at the high spot area, thank you for your comment and feedback, i hope that helps!
Nice and clear Tom, great explanation there 👍🏻😊
Thanks pal 👍🏻
very good simple and understood explanation !
Thank you Raymond I hope it helps shed some light, we do get asked that a lot 'which is better lines or fog' :)
This is the answer for the question before I asked! Good Job. I lost my faith about PDR if I can handle..
Thanks, I'm glad it helps sometimes you just need a demo and explanation and it becomes clear...
Great video Tom..it's lines for me!
T H lines never lie!
Yep, when it comes to that last 10% I can see so much more detail with lines!
Great video. I've been looking for this. Thank you.
No problem, I'm glad you liked it!
Hi Tom. Thanks for another great video. Do u know of any light boards that plug into the mains rather than into the cars lighter socket? Just looking for a cheaper option than the battery powered boards for now as tools are really expensive. Thanks again👍
Thanks Adam, I don’t know of any that come with a mains plug but if you don’t want to use the cars socket you can either get adapters that connect to a car battery and then carry around your own car battery, this is quite popular to allow you to move around easily but often you see these set ups on a trolley stand as the batteries can weigh a fair bit, alternatively you can get mains adapters that plug straight into the wall socket but have an adapter to receive a car lighter socket. This could be a good option for you but you just need to check the input/output voltage to check all compatible. There are plenty of adapters on eBay/amazon but I have never tried myself to be able to personally recommend... 👍🏻
Thankyou so much for taking the time to reply. I'll look into that. Have a great weekend
To add to Toms comment. When I started pdr I used a household fluorescent light fixing with a tube, mounted this vertically on a wood stand and it was a mains fixing
Hope this helps
@@dentremover01 thankyou. When I did my course last September the course lead said that's how he did it when he started. I tried with a strip light on a stand but couldn't really see the dent properly. Seemed to manage better with a fog but they're so expensive. I've got 300 set aside towards a light up to now, but seems the more I practice the more I realise that I need more tools to be able to finish the dents off so I could do with investing in more rods too (I've got around 15 I think)
Would love to have a bit more training, I feel like I've definitely improved since my 5 day course but it would be nice to have just a little guidance as I'm practicing. Just someone to say if I'm doing something wrong etc.
It's all really expensive (training/tools)
I watch all the videos yourself and Tom put on RUclips and they definitely help so thanks for that. Just need to keep practicing which I am doing. Got the whole day tomorrow set aside to finish off a bodyline dent I made on the boot, so if you're in the Sunderland area tomorrow and you can hear someone crying on his drive its probably me haha. Cheers for the advice. I really do appreciate it all 👍👍👍
Hi Adam Yare thanks. Toms your man for all these questions drop him an email and he would be more than happy to help 😊👍🏻
Great explanation 👍
Thanks, I really hoped it would help!
Is there a proper way to position the line board or fog board and work the dent to prevent "corn rows" ?
The answer here for me is to keep changing your board position regularly, cross checking your work from either side throughout the repair, its easy to set up the board once and work all the damage out and then reposition but often you can then miss what is happening with the removal and over push in the wrong place without releasing tension as you go, as well as moving left to right you can also push your board further back from you to show a new perspective of the repair as you begin the finishing stages
Just getting started and I got both and I still can't make my mind up I switch back and forth constantly and the quality of the light seems to play a big part also
If you've got both and can comfortably use both... even better!
Seems to fog light is better for intuitively getting a sense of the direction of the dent, while the line board is better towards the final stages in being able to distinguish the small variations-
when do you start your next course?
Hey Raymond, we've just wrapped up our latest launch but if you are interested you can join our wait list to be amongst the first to know the next enrolment dates! - www.learnpdronline.com/lpo-membership-launch-special/
So line your dent up with bottom of light line on fog board?
Depends on the damage to be honest, for line dents I like to have my board at an 45' angle to create a zigzag in the reflection, this helps me see the centre line but for circle dents il usually have lined up parallel to the lines to help me see how the metal around the dent is moving
I am still lost when it comes to getting panels straight. I have inherited a land rover discovery 1992 with lots of dents and am having a job to decide how to tackle them.
Hi Laurence, PDR is not easy and does take time to learn but is rewarding in many ways. Land rovers are difficult because most panels are aluminium, most trainees learn with steel as it is easier to work with and then move on to aluminium panels once they have some experience. Land rovers are tricky due to the aluminium but also a lot of the panels are riveted on so finding a straight panel is near on impossible. If you are learning PDR then practise panels such as bonnets are in my opinion the best way to learn and I would definitely start with steel!
😍😍🤠