This was a great, clear presentation! I'm about to start on some kitchen cabinets for an island, and you've sold me on the Salice slides. They should sponsor your channel!
Nice tip on the notch jig. I'm sold. 🎯 I don't do it every time, but sometimes I just cut the drawer back shorter and run the drawer bottom long and screw it in from underneath into the drawer back, then no need for a notch. Requires that added rip to one drawer element (and keeping track of them!) but it works. Nice job dude. 👊
I’ve done that also! I do always wonder if I’m losing some kind of horizontal integrity in the slide not having that positive stop. Probably fine but I’m not sure.
@TodaysCraftsmen same, I'm sure the slide manufacturer advises against it. I probably am subconsciously making that choice based on drawer size and use case. 🤷🏼♂️
Great info. Thanks for sharing this one. I've never used the undermounts. Mostly cost effective to use side mounts on the stuff I've made till now. However, I have a set of kitchen cabinets I'm building for my daughters new house and want to upgrade. These slides look great. Loving the channel. Keep up the great work!
Good video. I will say though, and ive mentioned this to Dino on his IG page too, that you're doing unnecessary work by notching the bottoms of your drawer boxes. If you make the front and back ends shorter in height, so that they sit on top of the drawer bottom, you completely eliminate the whole need to notch. This is how I've been building drawers for the last 20 years, and there's zero structural issues. Just my 2 cents from one cabinetmaker to another. PS: I think you can make your drawer box 1/4" longer than what you did, and it will be closer to the metric equivalent of what it's supposed to be. 4 cents now lol.
@@TodaysCraftsmen ah yes, dovetail drawers, you're correct. But on your melamine example here, it could be done with no notching. Are you using 550mm slides? If so, your drawer box can be 21-1/4" long. Or 540mm, to be more exact.
Thanks. Did you mean to use the small scraps seen in the beginning of the video to demonstrate how to calculate for the size of the front/back of the box? Great stuff!
Good video. Really like these undermount slides and you are a great teacher. I must admit I had a little chuckle though when you were measuring the set back from the front of the cabinet. If the manufacturer says the back is 10mm, why not just use a metric combo square and set it directly instead of fumbling around with fractional inches? When you're building European-style cabinets where all the hardware is designed using metric measurements, wouldn't it make sense to use metric measuring tools?
Thank you! My actual shop workflow would be to use my 23 spindle boring machine which is metric. I don’t have a metric double square but that being said, 13/32 is only .012 off of 10mm
I just built a shelf unit out of 3/4" melamine and couldn't believe how heavy it was once complete. Any tips on the next best material for white finish that doesn't weigh what melamine does? Is it a matter of going to birch and just finishing myself?
the 3/8" tip seems handy, it seems if you used different thickness material (i.e. 1/2") is there an easy way to figure placement of the clips? seems like they wouldn't line up with runners if placed all the way in the drawer corners.
With that black rail that runs down the sides of the Salice slides, does that make them comparable to the Movemento version of Blum that kinda has the same black rail?
I’m pretty sure the Movento isn’t synchronized (from rack and pinion,) like the Progressa is. I know the Movento has an additional rear adjustment that the Progressa does not.
I use the flange ones too! Ordered these by mistake and trying to get rid of them 😝 I definitely think it’s faster than setting up a dado and moving the blade a few times but maybe not by much
So if you were to add a three-quarter inch fake front and wanted an inset drawer simply add three-quarter to the 3/8 inch and move your slide back accordingly?
Great video! Nice slide too!
Thank you! They’re the best!
Great simple video Jeff thanks for sharing
Thanks, Jim 🙏🏼
Another informative video Jeff . I am getting ready to install the slides on dresser I made for my daughter .
Thanks, Rob 🙏🏼 What slides are you going with?
@@TodaysCraftsmen Grass Dyna Pro undermount . Corey said that Hafele didn't have salice in 12 inch. I also bought the adjustable feet .
Nice! The dyna pro are definitely good slides. I’ve used them a bunch.
Great tips!
Have a great weekend!
Thanks for watching! You too! 🙏🏼
This was a great, clear presentation! I'm about to start on some kitchen cabinets for an island, and you've sold me on the Salice slides. They should sponsor your channel!
Thank you! 🙏🏼 We’re really trying to be clear and concise so we appreciate the feedback. Reach out to your local Salice rep and plead our case! 😝
Cool stuff...🤘🤘🤘
Thank you! 🙏🏼
Nice tip on the notch jig. I'm sold. 🎯
I don't do it every time, but sometimes I just cut the drawer back shorter and run the drawer bottom long and screw it in from underneath into the drawer back, then no need for a notch. Requires that added rip to one drawer element (and keeping track of them!) but it works.
Nice job dude. 👊
I’ve done that also! I do always wonder if I’m losing some kind of horizontal integrity in the slide not having that positive stop. Probably fine but I’m not sure.
@TodaysCraftsmen same, I'm sure the slide manufacturer advises against it. I probably am subconsciously making that choice based on drawer size and use case. 🤷🏼♂️
Dino’s jig is really handy. The rubber gasket on the bottom keeps it in place. I’ve tried to make jigs in the past but clamping them is a big pain.
Great info. Thanks for sharing this one. I've never used the undermounts. Mostly cost effective to use side mounts on the stuff I've made till now. However, I have a set of kitchen cabinets I'm building for my daughters new house and want to upgrade. These slides look great. Loving the channel. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for watching! There are definitely cheaper options for undermounts but personally I don’t find the savings worth the trouble!
Great info, Jeff. In addition to self centering bits, I have a center punch that will self center in a hold like that or on a hinge.
Bill
Thanks, Bill! That’s cool I have to grab one!
@@TodaysCraftsmen General Tools #806
Thank you, sir I’ll check it out!
thats a really handy video.. thank you for this
Thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
Good video.
I will say though, and ive mentioned this to Dino on his IG page too, that you're doing unnecessary work by notching the bottoms of your drawer boxes.
If you make the front and back ends shorter in height, so that they sit on top of the drawer bottom, you completely eliminate the whole need to notch. This is how I've been building drawers for the last 20 years, and there's zero structural issues.
Just my 2 cents from one cabinetmaker to another.
PS: I think you can make your drawer box 1/4" longer than what you did, and it will be closer to the metric equivalent of what it's supposed to be.
4 cents now lol.
I’ve done that too but it’s not an option on dovetailed drawers.
I’ve never heard of anyone making a 21” drawer 21-1/4” 🤔
@@TodaysCraftsmen ah yes, dovetail drawers, you're correct. But on your melamine example here, it could be done with no notching.
Are you using 550mm slides? If so, your drawer box can be 21-1/4" long. Or 540mm, to be more exact.
The 21” Progressa calls for a 533mm drawer box which is just a hair (25 hundreths) less than 21”
@@TodaysCraftsmen oh okay, I'm not familiar with that one. Thought they were all metric sized.
Are you in the US? All of our slides are sold in the imperial measurement. The Progressa slides I use would be 533mm, 457mm, or 381mm (21”, 18”, 15”)
Great Stuff!
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thanks. Did you mean to use the small scraps seen in the beginning of the video to demonstrate how to calculate for the size of the front/back of the box? Great stuff!
Yes! We had some audio issues and it got left on the cutting room floor.
Do you mind sharing what brand cabinet legs you used on that cabinet? They seem well built. Great video !
Those are the Häfele Axilo
Where u get that little combo square from? And this is one of the most easy videos to learn how to install under mount slides. Very nice.
Thank you! It’s from Hillview Tool.
Good video. Really like these undermount slides and you are a great teacher. I must admit I had a little chuckle though when you were measuring the set back from the front of the cabinet. If the manufacturer says the back is 10mm, why not just use a metric combo square and set it directly instead of fumbling around with fractional inches? When you're building European-style cabinets where all the hardware is designed using metric measurements, wouldn't it make sense to use metric measuring tools?
Thank you!
My actual shop workflow would be to use my 23 spindle boring machine which is metric. I don’t have a metric double square but that being said, 13/32 is only .012 off of 10mm
@@TodaysCraftsmen Nice - keep the videos coming Jeff!
Stay tuned! 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
I just built a shelf unit out of 3/4" melamine and couldn't believe how heavy it was once complete. Any tips on the next best material for white finish that doesn't weigh what melamine does? Is it a matter of going to birch and just finishing myself?
It’s crazy heavy! Melamine is your best bet if you don’t want to finish anything. I wouldn’t paint birch personally. Try to find some Pluma-Ply.
the 3/8" tip seems handy, it seems if you used different thickness material (i.e. 1/2") is there an easy way to figure placement of the clips? seems like they wouldn't line up with runners if placed all the way in the drawer corners.
With 1/2” material you would subtract 5/8” from the opening. That way the clips end up in the exact same spot.
With that black rail that runs down the sides of the Salice slides, does that make them comparable to the Movemento version of Blum that kinda has the same black rail?
I’m pretty sure the Movento isn’t synchronized (from rack and pinion,) like the Progressa is. I know the Movento has an additional rear adjustment that the Progressa does not.
I've been using the clips with flanges, not sure it makes any difference, The knotch jig looks nice but is it any faster than using a table saw?
I use the flange ones too! Ordered these by mistake and trying to get rid of them 😝
I definitely think it’s faster than setting up a dado and moving the blade a few times but maybe not by much
So if you were to add a three-quarter inch fake front and wanted an inset drawer simply add three-quarter to the 3/8 inch and move your slide back accordingly?
Exactly! So you’d be 1-1/8” to your first hole.
I was just getting ready to leave a hateful comment but you stopped me just in time!
😝😝😝 Thanks, Dave!