Yes, this is a comeback and everything we did and checked in Part 1 ruclips.net/video/u_TG9Tubvpg/видео.html other than the EVAP Vent Solenoid fault, had NOTHING to do with the actual problem on this car. Having the customer clearing the codes, before bringing it to us in the original diagnosis, was a HUGE problem. Here is the list of the codes that were setting when it came back: P2135 TP Sensor 1-2 Correlation, P2138 APP Sensor 1-2 Correlation, P0641 5 Volt Reference 1 Circuit , P2132 Secondary Air System Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Here is a list of the original codes: (minus the EVAP Vent issue shown in part 1) - P2138, C0240, U1026, U1016, U1301, U1305, U1064, U1301 Notice the only code that we saw, was the P2138 (APP Sensor code). No U-codes this time around! I believe those U-codes would have returned if the shorted 5v reference issue happens for a longer period of time
Please Help!! Code p1345 I'm fairly knowledgeable on cars but I'm beat on this electrical problem. I have the 2002 mazda millenia 2.5l v6. NOT 2.3L v6 supercharged!!! It's a crank no start with fuel pressure working and no spark at the distributor. I cracked the fuel rail bolt and there is good pressure from the fuel pump but I dont know if injectors are firing fuel in.(haven't tested) I tested the fuses with a test lamp and the "st sign"," idle up" are both not getting any power to the ECM or from... that's how I know it's an electrical issue. When I Checked the fuses and relays those two are the only ones not getting power... I also tested for spark at the distributor, power comes in but no spark goes out to the coils also... Replaced battery on day 1 day 2 replaced distributor with aftermarket whole set rotor and coil and cap... Day 3 replaced crank sensor down by the crank. Day 4 test lamp fuse box and distributor Still the same code p1345. It's a hard code once I remove it after I turn it over it comes on. I drove during my shift in the rain and went over huge puddles so I know water got in but the car was off and turned on and got me home that night. The next day it wouldn't start just crank and crank. I was thinking of giving direct power and from the batter to the fuse connection points to try to jump it, is it safe??? or is there another way to jump the car without taking apart the fuse box??? Also I do get data stream for timming angle for cylinder 1. Data shows rpm on the scan tool but none shows up when crancking on the dash tachometer!!!!
Paul your brother adds so much to your videos. Sounds to me like he truly cares and takes care of his customers. It’s hard to find a shop like his especially out here on Long Island. Thanks to all of you for sharing. 👍 Artie
I remember when Danner used to make videos before he took over the shop : he was and still is a very good diagnostician,he might not have the time now,but he’s still got it! No worries Paul,you’ve worked with what you had before,sometimes they come back,no big deal... 👍
You guys have a great relationship, so much of it shows when you all work together. It feels like you and your son have become even closer since he became your full time camera man.
We really have! I'm glad that you mentioned that because I feel closer to Caleb than at any other point in our lives. So blessed by him. And now, he and his wife are about to make me grandpap 🥰
Amazing when we see “the rest of the story”. I’ve been working on cars since age 14 and professionally since 20. Took my first NIASE test in 75 and L1 cert for at least 20. First encountered electronic gremlins (not AMC) at VW in 1970 on Type 3 electronic fuel injection. I have the greatest respect for all of us in this field because to succeed you must learn and adapt. My congratulations to you Pa. guys for your channels and teaching!
Glad you guys figured that one out. What a pain! Always fun when the customer induces more frustration into troubleshooting. I've got bit before from a customer putting a problem in my head that he was convinced was causing the issue - I should've just stuck with my normal routine! Wasted all kinds of time chasing what he told me, and in the end, he was dead wrong, and had to return the part he had bought. Made me so mad, but now I stick to my guns no matter what they tell me. Guess the only way to learn is to get burnt once or twice, lol. Always good to see you guys! Great vids, and thanks for the sneak peek. :)
Amazing! I have the same situation with a 2007 5 cylinders Chevy colorado, this tutorial should be part of a TSB because this issue affects a lot of 5 and 6 cylinders chevy engines! Thank you so much Danner family!
Except for working on a Chevy, my apologies for this off subject comment. Been a long time subscriber, you've done many misfire vids where listening to how the engine cranks (relative compression) can give you direction. Have an 08 K1500 I'm working on. Only P0300 code, boss kept asking about fuel, fire, etc..... listening to cranking, I could hear the dead hole. Told my boss 💯 confident mechanical issue. Less than 1 he to diag. Work order is now 31 hrs! Just OMG I got alot of work ahead of me.... lolol
You can never under estimate a visual inspection. I see crazy stuff being a lil unique in what we sell, my boss buys all the Hummers he can. I avoid a shameless plug. Great work. This is the reason they are talking about a Mode 10. To see all the valuable data that a novice will not save before deleting codes.
I wanted to take a minute and thank you for this video. I recently bought a 2006 H3 at auction. condition report videos showed vehicle starting driving forward and reverse no problems. What it didn't show was whether CEL was on or not, but wouldn't matter because battery was dead and had to use a big jump box to start it up, so stored codes would have been gone anyway... However, once vehicle was delivered to me, it was empty on gas, tow driver jumped vehicle to remove from truck, I drove to gas station to put gas in and less than 10 minutes total time, vehicle shut off, CEL going berserk, lights all over..and then limp home mode with gas pedal not working at all. Had to have it towed home. I knew battery was bad at that point (ya think? lol), tested and verified it was bad, bought a new battery and put that in. Fired up, ran fine, and then, still...lit up like a xmas tree with all sorts of weird seemingly unrelated codes-- 2135, p060e, c0240, p1133, p0128, p0171,p0300,Traction control, coolant temp to low (95 degrees outside-- for real?), random misfire, etc etc. you get the story. I was expecting to have to change air clearner, tune up, oil change, all of that stuff, but to see all of these things didnt' make sense....I watched these videos....sure enough...EXACT same issue...the dang resonator box on the H3 had been rubbing on the wire harness and pinching it against valve cover for 15 years, so badly that it had worn permanent grooves on the bottom side of the resonator. The 02 sensor wiring, all four wires the insulation was gone, bare wires, covered in a glorious turqoise corrosion and shorting to each other and grounding to whatever, an ignition coil pigtail had also grounded out on the bottom side against the valve cover. Although to look at the loom and the plastic cover, it looked fine....but if you grab it and try to look at it or under it, it crumbles or is totally hardened by the long term engine heat, etc etc. I wish they made a plug and play replacement harness for that whole section of wiring harness because likely any and every wire running down the valve cover needs to be looked at. Bottom line, after catching those 7 or so wires grounding out, no more check engine lights or trouble codes. BTW...no one makes those connectors/pigtails anymore for that 3.5l; even the dealer didn't have them. only place that had them was rockauto dot com.
Danner comes in for the win! Great find! I just had a Ford kick my butt with a bad power steering pressure switch causing the fuel tank pressure sensor to act up and cause a large leak code. Didn't get paid enough on diag but it's fixed. It's that feeling when you figure it out that keeps us going!
The Danner Tag team fix it! It is difficult to diagnose when a customer clears the codes before you get the vehicle, and replaced the throttle body and pig tail , APP, too many variables before you even start to diagnose. Excellent Video!
One of the things I always try to tell students, DO NOT CLEAR CODES at least until you’ve read the freeze frame data. Even more difficult if the customer is erasing codes for you.
Even more when you dont know they where cleared. it would be great if all modules take a note from Fords P1000 code to tell hay we where cleared reasently.
Funny thing is? Right after part 1, we did and we all got Covid smh. Took it with us. Daughter had a rash (yep, didn't know that was a Covid symptom in younger kids) and by the time we got to our destination, we all had it. This is why we weren't there for this part 2 fix!! When we filmed this follow up, we were just out of quarantine. So yeah, that was my needed vacation...NOT!
Good work guys. I don't necessarily classify this as a comeback, being able to duplicate the problem is key. If it can't be duplicated then you don't really know if you are going down the right path.
Having all the right info sure does help. Glad he didn't clear the codes this time, sure made Danner's job easier, and would have yours the other day if you'd known. I ALWAYS tend to lean toward the 'hardest' option instead of looking for the most obvious. Even with the right info I myself would have still looked for the hardest option, guess it's kinda human nature though.
At the end of the video I thought you were going to say, " This is a perfect example for all you costumers out there, DO NOT ERASE CODES BEFORE BRINGING IT IN FOR REPAIR!!! Lol
I can confirm that at least on some cars, the separate 5V refs are indeed separate and not tied internally in the PCM. On some recent experiments I did on 2 different models (one was my 2000 trans am), when I intentionally shorted out the 5V ref that was specific for a component such as the IAT for example, there was no effect on the voltage at any other sensors much less the whole circuit. Another example was a 5V ref that fed only 2 components and I could show grounding it out only affected those 2 components. I am sure there is variation with all the makes and models but at least in my experience, some of the independent reference circuits on a wiring diagram are indeed independent.
Hey Matt! In the case of an IAT, that is a thermistor circuit and the 5v you're shorting there is not directly connected to the 5v regulator like other sensors. 😉
@@ScannerDanner ah that makes sense because the thermistors would need a resistor in the PCM near their source voltage to allow for measurement of the variable resistance in the thermistor itself.
Wow...that was a tough one,and a great pt 2 this one.And your brother cleaaaaarly knows his stuff aswell...not that i doubted that..but it was cooooool to see it portrayed like that also you know, Thanx alot for killer video.Loving the intro though.Cracked me up bigtime :) Greetings from the CarViking in Norway ,Stefan
I have a 07 Pontiac G5 that we parked a few winters ago fir a " Reduced Power Mode " issue.... It had other issues that we decided to replace it and not spend time troubleshooting it... Throttle Body was suspect - i cleaned it and you can't get a TPS without buying whole unit...$250+ here Accelerator pedal was also recommended replacing ...drive by wire at $200+ Corrosion was my thought as it is only a Winter issue... We had parked it winter before but needed it again as backup and once cold hit..it slowed again.... I plan to rip out the carpet and trace wires and see if i can repair it cheaply before dumping it...
CAN'T FIX IT IF IT AIN'T BROKE. LUCKILY IT CAME BACK BROKE. WELL MAYBE NOT BROKE BUT AT LEAST WITH THE CODE LIST YOU HAD A DIRECTION TO START YOUR DIAG. BEING LUCKY IS SOMETIMES BETTER THAN BEING GOOD, BUT BEING GOOD SOMETIMES MAKES YOU LUCKY, WHICH I THINK HAPPENED IN YOUR BROTHERS CASE. YEP, GOOD, LUCKY, AND VISUAL INSPECTION FOR THE WIN....GOOD JOB GUYS.
Thank you for the update. I got a follow up question, on part 1, you found some crossties in the junction box. When you find something like that, what do you do? I would have had an squirrel moment and most likely got stuck in that hole mess. SMHO.
I moved relays around and waited for the return. I was absolutely not going to recommend a power distribution box at any point in time with this thing. I needed to see the failure. That is the key. You start changing parts, even with some type of evidence to do so, is a receipt for disaster. The answer is to clear the faults and give it back and pray when it comes back you have better direction. Exactly what we did here. Hope that makes sense. Remember when you make a call and change a part, you are now married to that car until it is fixed! So don't make a call, when you can't be sure. Simple as that sometimes.
Hey Paul what vehicle are you driving just out of curiosity? Looks kind of like a Lincoln symbol. But I'm curious what year and model the truck is? Is it the 2002-2008 Lincoln Mark LT. I hear it's owned by Ford and essentially a luxury version of the Ford F-150
Nice 👍🏻 video, thanks. One question, is in air secondary valve the pressure sensor, or is there a valve movement sensor. I know that it is working like potentiometer with 5v reference, but how car computer knows about stock open or stock close valve. Thanks for answering and big respect ✊.
Okay Guys here is my Problem .. I have an 06 H3.. it goes into Limp mode only when it is above 70 degrees out and I have driven it over 15-20 miles... other than that it wont go into limp mode.. ever.. can drive it all winter everywhere for an hour and it wont shut down.. spring fall same thing... it has to be Hot out...and has to be driven at least 20 so miles for it to shut down . Any suggestions... I have a cheap scan tool and it only gives me codes... replaced the throttle then I watched your videos...History codes P1516. P2101. P2176... I also recently had my Cat stolen off it but it did it before that.. codes that I got P2176 . P1516... I have noticed moisture in my fuse box under the hood
Hi scanner how do you doing I need some help on a primary ignition waveform that didn't showing the spike after the driver shot off just go up to 50v and then a flat line and return to battery voltage .. knowing that the driver had been repaired for the same number of cylender misfire ..
How come the upload date is today and yet a bunch of comments are listed as “5 days old”? P.s. thanks for the update. Original video would have felt a little empty without a conclusion
@@ScannerDanner oh? How can I take advantage of that? Maybe I missed something. If not no worries. I'm on my second paid month of premium and loving it! (On chapter 3 at the moment with the case study where you diagnosed TCC problem on a students car as a bad computer and had to eat it by relying too much on a questionable bidirectional test. But great video to learn from!!)
@@dt7266 I figured most of you missed it, I'm sorry. When you login, go the SD Premium drop down menu and click on our sign up page to get email notifications of all new uploads and also to receive messages when I offer early releases to you guys like I did here. I promise you will not get spammed. Only the above mentioned messages you'll receive.
Which Buick? Sorry. And no, this 5cylinder is unique to the Hummer and some other smaller GM trucks. I've never seen it in a car? Maybe an SUV? Like the enclave? Is that what you're talking about?
makes me wonder if that one hummer that had TB problem had the same issue, I remember the relay was bad and it was fixed by replacing it but maybe it was caused by some short.
@@shrekerdad6924 yeah, it was weird as it was a power feed to the ecm but was marked as a throttle actuator power feed if I remember. So basically, the low voltage feed to the ecm was the feed being used by the ecm to control the throttle body. Make sense?
It was! That faulty relay, was a power feed to the ECM, that much is easy to see. What is not easy to understand by the diagram is what the ECM is actually using that particular power feed for. 1. It's main purpose is to use that source to control the TAC motor. 2. It will look at that source and compare it to another power feed (to the ECM) to make sure they are the same. And this is where our voltage code to the TAC motor came from. There really is no source to the TAC motor directly. It comes from the ECM. Hope I'm explaining that right. #There is no wiring to the TAC motor assembly that is not coming from the ECM. So there is no constant power feed circuit directly feeding the TAC (from memory)
You get the Ying and Yang with modern vehicles.....i miss my early vehicles ( have a few for projects now ) but still work on my newer ones as easily...luckily i am tech savvy and 50 years diagnosing is still the same but.... With more electronics come more chances for codes and issues that 99% of the time are simple to figure out....frustrating but no different when troubleshooting anything...i fix anything and build computers too...love the technology even when it fails easily...
We have been travel trailer / motor homing in my family since the 60's and yes your average motorhome ( beyond the engine/transmission of newer models is pretty simple AC/DC wiring )
What Ismar said. I'll also add that there are two different 5v regulators in the engine computer: 5 volt reference 1 5 volt reference 2 When I talked, I mentioned "ref 1" and "ref 2", sorry for the slang. Thanks!
Bro this too here in africa it was giving all sorte of problem and i solved the problem because of this Great video much much respect and a lot of thanks from africa dan u the man
Appreciate the answer man I have Apollo 8 scanner and it won't do it im checkin with Mitchell to c what I can do c i have no way to b at vehicle with the program
![FORTNITE CLASSICS IS BACK! Fortnite Item Shop [November 15th, 2024] (Fortnite Chapter 5)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RbQURbeFwqs/mqdefault.jpg)
Yes, this is a comeback and everything we did and checked in Part 1 ruclips.net/video/u_TG9Tubvpg/видео.html other than the EVAP Vent Solenoid fault, had NOTHING to do with the actual problem on this car.
Having the customer clearing the codes, before bringing it to us in the original diagnosis, was a HUGE problem. Here is the list of the codes that were setting when it came back:
P2135 TP Sensor 1-2 Correlation, P2138 APP Sensor 1-2 Correlation, P0641 5 Volt Reference 1 Circuit , P2132 Secondary Air System Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
Here is a list of the original codes: (minus the EVAP Vent issue shown in part 1)
- P2138, C0240, U1026, U1016, U1301, U1305, U1064, U1301
Notice the only code that we saw, was the P2138 (APP Sensor code).
No U-codes this time around! I believe those U-codes would have returned if the shorted 5v reference issue happens for a longer period of time
Please Help!!
Code p1345
I'm fairly knowledgeable on cars but I'm beat on this electrical problem.
I have the 2002 mazda millenia 2.5l v6.
NOT 2.3L v6 supercharged!!!
It's a crank no start with fuel pressure working and no spark at the distributor.
I cracked the fuel rail bolt and there is good pressure from the fuel pump but I dont know if injectors are firing fuel in.(haven't tested)
I tested the fuses with a test lamp and the "st sign"," idle up" are both not getting any power to the ECM or from...
that's how I know it's an electrical issue.
When I Checked the fuses and relays those two are the only ones not getting power...
I also tested for spark at the distributor, power comes in but no spark goes out to the coils also...
Replaced battery on day 1
day 2 replaced distributor with aftermarket whole set rotor and coil and cap...
Day 3 replaced crank sensor down by the crank.
Day 4 test lamp fuse box and distributor
Still the same code p1345. It's a hard code once I remove it after I turn it over it comes on.
I drove during my shift in the rain and went over huge puddles so I know water got in but the car was off and turned on and got me home that night. The next day it wouldn't start just crank and crank.
I was thinking of giving direct power and from the batter to the fuse connection points to try to jump it, is it safe???
or is there another way to jump the car without taking apart the fuse box???
Also I do get data stream for timming angle for cylinder 1. Data shows rpm on the scan tool but none shows up when crancking on the dash tachometer!!!!
@@tentedalex post this to my forum, it is free to join and we can help you there www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Paul your brother adds so much to your videos. Sounds to me like he truly cares and takes care of his customers. It’s hard to find a shop like his especially out here on Long Island. Thanks to all of you for sharing. 👍 Artie
I remember when Danner used to make videos before he took over the shop : he was and still is a very good diagnostician,he might not have the time now,but he’s still got it! No worries Paul,you’ve worked with what you had before,sometimes they come back,no big deal... 👍
I feel like this is more of the real life situation. I like the fact that he gets stumped on problems too.
Big Beard fixes it after Little Beard messes up the Relays!! 😉
Good to see you both helping each other out. .
Brotherly Luv
You guys have a great relationship, so much of it shows when you all work together. It feels like you and your son have become even closer since he became your full time camera man.
We really have! I'm glad that you mentioned that because I feel closer to Caleb than at any other point in our lives. So blessed by him. And now, he and his wife are about to make me grandpap 🥰
Congratulations on becoming a grandpa!
Amazing when we see “the rest of the story”. I’ve been working on cars since age 14 and professionally since 20. Took my first NIASE test in 75 and L1 cert for at least 20. First encountered electronic gremlins (not AMC) at VW in 1970 on Type 3 electronic fuel injection. I have the greatest respect for all of us in this field because to succeed you must learn and adapt. My congratulations to you Pa. guys for your channels and teaching!
Glad you guys figured that one out. What a pain! Always fun when the customer induces more frustration into troubleshooting.
I've got bit before from a customer putting a problem in my head that he was convinced was causing the issue - I should've just stuck with my normal routine! Wasted all kinds of time chasing what he told me, and in the end, he was dead wrong, and had to return the part he had bought. Made me so mad, but now I stick to my guns no matter what they tell me. Guess the only way to learn is to get burnt once or twice, lol.
Always good to see you guys! Great vids, and thanks for the sneak peek. :)
This was extremely good. Great to show the struggles... but even better to find the culprit! 👏🏻👍🏻
never ceases to amaze me at the fact that the story is always clear at the end. so which ones scoobie and which one's shaggy???
And yes , We love the videos at your brothers shop. Keep them coming!
Amazing! I have the same situation with a 2007 5 cylinders Chevy colorado, this tutorial should be part of a TSB because this issue affects a lot of 5 and 6 cylinders chevy engines! Thank you so much Danner family!
Same harness damaged?
@@ScannerDanner same thing!
@@sinegra30 ditto...same thing, resonator box destroying the wiring along the valve cover.
Except for working on a Chevy, my apologies for this off subject comment. Been a long time subscriber, you've done many misfire vids where listening to how the engine cranks (relative compression) can give you direction. Have an 08 K1500 I'm working on. Only P0300 code, boss kept asking about fuel, fire, etc..... listening to cranking, I could hear the dead hole. Told my boss 💯 confident mechanical issue. Less than 1 he to diag. Work order is now 31 hrs! Just OMG I got alot of work ahead of me.... lolol
You can never under estimate a visual inspection. I see crazy stuff being a lil unique in what we sell, my boss buys all the Hummers he can. I avoid a shameless plug. Great work. This is the reason they are talking about a Mode 10. To see all the valuable data that a novice will not save before deleting codes.
You guys are so cool. You even beat sketchy wiring diagrams that tell only half the story.
Keep making a difference in our community!
I wanted to take a minute and thank you for this video. I recently bought a 2006 H3 at auction. condition report videos showed vehicle starting driving forward and reverse no problems. What it didn't show was whether CEL was on or not, but wouldn't matter because battery was dead and had to use a big jump box to start it up, so stored codes would have been gone anyway...
However, once vehicle was delivered to me, it was empty on gas, tow driver jumped vehicle to remove from truck, I drove to gas station to put gas in and less than 10 minutes total time, vehicle shut off, CEL going berserk, lights all over..and then limp home mode with gas pedal not working at all. Had to have it towed home.
I knew battery was bad at that point (ya think? lol), tested and verified it was bad, bought a new battery and put that in. Fired up, ran fine, and then, still...lit up like a xmas tree with all sorts of weird seemingly unrelated codes-- 2135, p060e, c0240, p1133, p0128, p0171,p0300,Traction control, coolant temp to low (95 degrees outside-- for real?), random misfire, etc etc. you get the story.
I was expecting to have to change air clearner, tune up, oil change, all of that stuff, but to see all of these things didnt' make sense....I watched these videos....sure enough...EXACT same issue...the dang resonator box on the H3 had been rubbing on the wire harness and pinching it against valve cover for 15 years, so badly that it had worn permanent grooves on the bottom side of the resonator.
The 02 sensor wiring, all four wires the insulation was gone, bare wires, covered in a glorious turqoise corrosion and shorting to each other and grounding to whatever, an ignition coil pigtail had also grounded out on the bottom side against the valve cover.
Although to look at the loom and the plastic cover, it looked fine....but if you grab it and try to look at it or under it, it crumbles or is totally hardened by the long term engine heat, etc etc.
I wish they made a plug and play replacement harness for that whole section of wiring harness because likely any and every wire running down the valve cover needs to be looked at.
Bottom line, after catching those 7 or so wires grounding out, no more check engine lights or trouble codes. BTW...no one makes those connectors/pigtails anymore for that 3.5l; even the dealer didn't have them. only place that had them was rockauto dot com.
Brilliant fix guys.
Danner comes in for the win! Great find! I just had a Ford kick my butt with a bad power steering pressure switch causing the fuel tank pressure sensor to act up and cause a large leak code. Didn't get paid enough on diag but it's fixed. It's that feeling when you figure it out that keeps us going!
All three of you guys are SUPER AWESOME!
The Danner Tag team fix it! It is difficult to diagnose when a customer clears the codes before you get the vehicle, and replaced the throttle body and pig tail , APP, too many variables before you even start to diagnose. Excellent Video!
Nice job. Keep thr videos flowing Paul!
One of the things I always try to tell students, DO NOT CLEAR CODES at least until you’ve read the freeze frame data. Even more difficult if the customer is erasing codes for you.
Even more when you dont know they where cleared. it would be great if all modules take a note from Fords P1000 code to tell hay we where cleared reasently.
@@timowallin8020 Take a look on the generic side for distance traveled and number of warm ups since DTCs cleared.
@@mattt4183 so true there. i actually forget at times generic mode has this. need to remind myself
Paul,
Great video - thank you!
BTW intermittent limp mode is part of getting old.
God bless
Paul (in MA)
This is a great time to take a vacation. I love your channel. Your very good. Everyone needs time to relax reset. Money isn't everything.
Funny thing is? Right after part 1, we did and we all got Covid smh. Took it with us. Daughter had a rash (yep, didn't know that was a Covid symptom in younger kids) and by the time we got to our destination, we all had it. This is why we weren't there for this part 2 fix!!
When we filmed this follow up, we were just out of quarantine.
So yeah, that was my needed vacation...NOT!
Thanks for the update. I feel like I spent more time in limp mode than normal life these days. I wish I could be fixed that easy. 🤣🤣
🤣
Good work guys. I don't necessarily classify this as a comeback, being able to duplicate the problem is key. If it can't be duplicated then you don't really know if you are going down the right path.
Agree 😉
Nice one Danner, I got an intermittent cut out coming in this morning these 2 films have given me hope instead of worry, wish me luck.
Good providence my friend! I dont believe in luck 😉
Hope your job works out fairly easy Jeremy!
Having all the right info sure does help. Glad he didn't clear the codes this time, sure made Danner's job easier, and would have yours the other day if you'd known. I ALWAYS tend to lean toward the 'hardest' option instead of looking for the most obvious. Even with the right info I myself would have still looked for the hardest option, guess it's kinda human nature though.
Thanks for the video! Nice to see brothers getting along and working together! You guys did good!
Great Video Paul !!
Really enjoyed watching!
lol. i was wrong the relay is not the issue . pleas say hello to your brother from Jordan ... great guys and the best . i love watching y'all .
At the end of the video I thought you were going to say, " This is a perfect example for all you costumers out there, DO NOT ERASE CODES BEFORE BRINGING IT IN FOR REPAIR!!! Lol
I should have!
should have charged customer for repair as i dont regard it as a comeback
I can confirm that at least on some cars, the separate 5V refs are indeed separate and not tied internally in the PCM. On some recent experiments I did on 2 different models (one was my 2000 trans am), when I intentionally shorted out the 5V ref that was specific for a component such as the IAT for example, there was no effect on the voltage at any other sensors much less the whole circuit. Another example was a 5V ref that fed only 2 components and I could show grounding it out only affected those 2 components.
I am sure there is variation with all the makes and models but at least in my experience, some of the independent reference circuits on a wiring diagram are indeed independent.
Hey Matt! In the case of an IAT, that is a thermistor circuit and the 5v you're shorting there is not directly connected to the 5v regulator like other sensors. 😉
@@ScannerDanner ah that makes sense because the thermistors would need a resistor in the PCM near their source voltage to allow for measurement of the variable resistance in the thermistor itself.
Always interesting, thanks!
Thanks for the Update...i just watched it last night....
And Deja Vu at beginning...
Good find
I sometimes make a tech chase ghost when customers clear codes
Thanks guys
Wow...that was a tough one,and a great pt 2 this one.And your brother cleaaaaarly knows his stuff aswell...not that i doubted that..but it was cooooool to see it portrayed like that also you know, Thanx alot for killer video.Loving the intro though.Cracked me up bigtime :) Greetings from the CarViking in Norway ,Stefan
Thanks my friend
Indeed Special Thanks to James Danner, I'm a huge fan of him👍
Thanks for sharing SD, this one is really special👍
Stay Safe Guy's❤
I have a 07 Pontiac G5 that we parked a few winters ago fir a " Reduced Power Mode " issue....
It had other issues that we decided to replace it and not spend time troubleshooting it...
Throttle Body was suspect - i cleaned it and you can't get a TPS without buying whole unit...$250+ here
Accelerator pedal was also recommended replacing ...drive by wire at $200+
Corrosion was my thought as it is only a Winter issue...
We had parked it winter before but needed it again as backup and once cold hit..it slowed again....
I plan to rip out the carpet and trace wires and see if i can repair it cheaply before dumping it...
you'll have that! wise not charging for the initial diagnosis, you cannot always do that or you'd go broke, but that was a special case :)
Nice find. I like how he says “ it’s a comeback on me *and Caleb” lol
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Good Video with your brother, thanks. All good for you and your Family.
Fantastic explanation team Danner, thanks a lot for share this.
Thanks for sharing Paul... Cheers.
Enjoyed the video! What comeback?
Seems like a good cleaning of the engine compartment might have helped with the visual inspection.
CAN'T FIX IT IF IT AIN'T BROKE. LUCKILY IT CAME BACK BROKE. WELL MAYBE NOT BROKE BUT AT LEAST WITH THE CODE LIST YOU HAD A DIRECTION TO START YOUR DIAG. BEING LUCKY IS SOMETIMES BETTER THAN BEING GOOD, BUT BEING GOOD SOMETIMES MAKES YOU LUCKY, WHICH I THINK HAPPENED IN YOUR BROTHERS CASE. YEP, GOOD, LUCKY, AND VISUAL INSPECTION FOR THE WIN....GOOD JOB GUYS.
Great video profesor!
Great job guys
That makes no sense, it's all lies.
Awesome video update!
Bro is the man!
Nice one danner,thank u gentlemen👍
Best intro ever
We know its all about you SD !! Kaylob is just a tripod!
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😂 yeah scanner, only if you had that 5V reference 1, but big up to danner this time ✊
Danner your the man good lookin out IRON SHARPENS IRON !!
Nice job 👏👍
Thank you for the update. I got a follow up question, on part 1, you found some crossties in the junction box. When you find something like that, what do you do? I would have had an squirrel moment and most likely got stuck in that hole mess. SMHO.
I moved relays around and waited for the return. I was absolutely not going to recommend a power distribution box at any point in time with this thing. I needed to see the failure. That is the key. You start changing parts, even with some type of evidence to do so, is a receipt for disaster. The answer is to clear the faults and give it back and pray when it comes back you have better direction. Exactly what we did here. Hope that makes sense.
Remember when you make a call and change a part, you are now married to that car until it is fixed!
So don't make a call, when you can't be sure. Simple as that sometimes.
Great video teacher
Hey Paul what vehicle are you driving just out of curiosity?
Looks kind of like a Lincoln symbol. But I'm curious what year and model the truck is?
Is it the 2002-2008 Lincoln Mark LT.
I hear it's owned by Ford and essentially a luxury version of the Ford F-150
Had a 2012 Navigator that was my wifes. I drive an 09 Silverado 2500 (no car payments in this family lol)
Nice 👍🏻 video, thanks. One question, is in air secondary valve the pressure sensor, or is there a valve movement sensor. I know that it is working like potentiometer with 5v reference, but how car computer knows about stock open or stock close valve. Thanks for answering and big respect ✊.
It is a pressure sensor to monitor airflow during air pump operation. It is not a position sensor. Hope I answered your question. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner thank you very much
My Hummer H3 2007 had this exact problem.
Was wondering what happened to the vehicle with moisture on the relays. Evap job was nice
hehehe nice beginning of video and yes we are just human and make mistakes.
Awesome outstanding job thanks
Danner is a star .
Okay Guys here is my Problem .. I have an 06 H3.. it goes into Limp mode only when it is above 70 degrees out and I have driven it over 15-20 miles... other than that it wont go into limp mode.. ever.. can drive it all winter everywhere for an hour and it wont shut down.. spring fall same thing... it has to be Hot out...and has to be driven at least 20 so miles for it to shut down .
Any suggestions... I have a cheap scan tool and it only gives me codes... replaced the throttle then I watched your videos...History codes P1516. P2101. P2176... I also recently had my Cat stolen off it but it did it before that.. codes that I got P2176 . P1516... I have noticed moisture in my fuse box under the hood
I can't stand when customers clear codes.
Hi scanner how do you doing I need some help on a primary ignition waveform that didn't showing the spike after the driver shot off just go up to 50v and then a flat line and return to battery voltage .. knowing that the driver had been repaired for the same number of cylender misfire ..
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Post this here! It is free to join and you can share that waveform with me.
How come the upload date is today and yet a bunch of comments are listed as “5 days old”?
P.s. thanks for the update. Original video would have felt a little empty without a conclusion
Gave my premium members an early view 😉
@@ScannerDanner oh? How can I take advantage of that? Maybe I missed something. If not no worries. I'm on my second paid month of premium and loving it! (On chapter 3 at the moment with the case study where you diagnosed TCC problem on a students car as a bad computer and had to eat it by relying too much on a questionable bidirectional test. But great video to learn from!!)
@@dt7266 I figured most of you missed it, I'm sorry. When you login, go the SD Premium drop down menu and click on our sign up page to get email notifications of all new uploads and also to receive messages when I offer early releases to you guys like I did here. I promise you will not get spammed. Only the above mentioned messages you'll receive.
@@ScannerDanner Nothing at all to be sorry about. Sounds great! I'll do that, thanks for the info :)
@@dt7266 did you sign up? I have another early release video for you guys coming up today.
What does it mean?
Close loop faulte
Does it mean that the engine computer is faulty?
No sir. It means that you have an af ratio problem or faulty O2 sensor that has been identified and the computer is now ignoring the 02 sensor.
Danner is the best!!!
Hey I saw this the first thing I thought of was that buick doesn't it have the same engine in it?
Which Buick? Sorry. And no, this 5cylinder is unique to the Hummer and some other smaller GM trucks. I've never seen it in a car? Maybe an SUV? Like the enclave? Is that what you're talking about?
@@ScannerDanner yeah cause it kind of had the same 5v ref problem.
Hi guys we are on my way...
cut
Hi guys I am on our way...
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Hi guys we are...here
LOL
BTW Danner is the coolest - especially his hair!
NICE
Dam bloody employees with come backs. 😂 Good find!!!
makes me wonder if that one hummer that had TB problem had the same issue, I remember the relay was bad and it was fixed by replacing it but maybe it was caused by some short.
No, that one was the relay. I proved the low voltage feed to the pcm on that one. Remember?
@@ScannerDanner just went back and watched it, you are right my mistake.
@@shrekerdad6924 yeah, it was weird as it was a power feed to the ecm but was marked as a throttle actuator power feed if I remember.
So basically, the low voltage feed to the ecm was the feed being used by the ecm to control the throttle body. Make sense?
@@ScannerDanner wait! I thought that voltage was meant to be compared to the feed of the TB. I'm so confused now.
It was! That faulty relay, was a power feed to the ECM, that much is easy to see.
What is not easy to understand by the diagram is what the ECM is actually using that particular power feed for.
1. It's main purpose is to use that source to control the TAC motor.
2. It will look at that source and compare it to another power feed (to the ECM) to make sure they are the same.
And this is where our voltage code to the TAC motor came from. There really is no source to the TAC motor directly. It comes from the ECM.
Hope I'm explaining that right.
#There is no wiring to the TAC motor assembly that is not coming from the ECM. So there is no constant power feed circuit directly feeding the TAC (from memory)
perfect.
I work on motorhome power systems every day . I think automotive electrical systems seem more challenging.
You get the Ying and Yang with modern vehicles.....i miss my early vehicles ( have a few for projects now ) but still work on my newer ones as easily...luckily i am tech savvy and 50 years diagnosing is still the same but....
With more electronics come more chances for codes and issues that 99% of the time are simple to figure out....frustrating but no different when troubleshooting anything...i fix anything and build computers too...love the technology even when it fails easily...
We have been travel trailer / motor homing in my family since the 60's and yes your average motorhome ( beyond the engine/transmission of newer models is pretty simple AC/DC wiring )
Excellent description on "new technology", nothing new with electricity
My class A is an electrical nightmare
@@ScannerDanner , I love easy money !
Hey man I have Mitchell on demand and I have a snap on scanner how can I do what u r doing with scanner
Which part my friend?
How can I get the program on scanner
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So which one of you is the elder??? Wish I had a brother.
Danner (James) is 14 months older
Sometimes it pays to be lucky not good.
Sometimes it pays to have a brother that knows his s--t 😉
What does RAF1 mean?????
5v reference circuit number 1
What Ismar said.
I'll also add that there are two different 5v regulators in the engine computer:
5 volt reference 1
5 volt reference 2
When I talked, I mentioned "ref 1" and "ref 2", sorry for the slang. Thanks!
Try enroute?
Ok
Bro this too here in africa it was giving all sorte of problem and i solved the problem because of this Great video much much respect and a lot of thanks from africa dan u the man
Yea its not fun diagnostics any more lol
For Intermittents, I totally agree
Appreciate the answer man I have Apollo 8 scanner and it won't do it im checkin with Mitchell to c what I can do c i have no way to b at vehicle with the program
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If it isn't a bad ground, it's a misbehaving ground where it shouldn't be!
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