Oliver 770 deleting the power booster.
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- I have an Oliver 770 that has the optional power booster drive. It doesn't work the way it should so I'm switching back to straight drive. Here I do a brief overview about what's needed to delete the power booster and how it works.
Also looking for recommendations for video camera equipment. Feel free to leave a comment about what you use or have used and what you like and don't like.
international 66 series had an over under thing and when you put it in under-drive they would quit moving and some people opened up the cover on the side of transmission to access it and welded it solid somehow, i do not know if that was the thing to do but it did get done sometimes
I've seen/heard of a few fixes for this Oliver power booster. You still would be without booster drive but didn't have to source all the parts to delete the unit. I think one was welding the clutch pack together and one I seen had the booster in place but the clutch pack was gone and a straight drive couple was in its place.
Nice video,,,, I have a 770 [ 1960] with a working PB,, I hate it,, would love to take it out, and do what you are doing,,,I also would like to rebuild the engine and hydraulic pump,,,,I guess I should start by locating the parts needed to do the PB bypass.
The power booster definitely has it's place and I wouldn't mind having one tractor with it, but with parts hard to come by and expensive. I'd rather delete and not worry about it again. I have alot of tractors all in various states of fully working to not working. It will be nice to have this one up and going especially when I get the power traction hitch on it.
I have a 770 with that shaft your looking for, if you can interchange parts with an 880 I bet that shaft would work
My 880 has the helical gear trans. I'm told the shafts are different.
I would like to do the same thing. How did you remove the engine with the power booster?
@OliverNatemy hydraulic pump is draining all the fluid into the trans :( I just bought the tractor and discovered the problem.. Any chance you'll be doing a hydro pump rebuild video any time soon? I'm completely starting from scratch, no Oliver experience at all, and you explain things f'n great and easy to follow :)
Thanks for the nice words, it's much appreciated. Funny you mention the hydraulic pump. I did rebuild the pump on this tractor and after I was done, I realized I should have made a video out of it. I do have a couple more tractors that need the pump done on them but I can't say for sure when I will have time to do them. I'll see maybe it's something I can get at in the next couple weeks.
@@mudbogger372 awesome! Yeah fixing these pumps seems like a pretty common operation, but I can't find a video of anyone doing it anywhere lol take care, man! I'll be watching the channel :)
@@mudbogger372 that would be SO helpful!
Hi Nate Can I just leave the gutz in there, delete the direct drive clutch and couple the 2 shafts together??? thx
I have seen a 770 where they removed the direct drive clutch pack and put a coupler in its place. It was a non-runner so I'm unsure how it shifted. It's been a while since I've ran one with a working power booster so I can't remember if they shift hard in direct or booster drive. My biggest concern with leaving the guts in, is that the booster gears may cause the tractor to shift hard all the time, but I'm kinda leaning towards when you shift into booster drive this allows you to shift the main transmission easier. So I think leaving the guts in would cause no issues other than if they would have major failure.
@@mudbogger372 Ok I understand. So in direct the booster gears are still turning?? I just don't want to buy the expensive shafts. If nothing else I just might bolt the direct clutch halves together so no slippage can occur.
@@powerhungrytoo sorry it took so long to get back to you been crazy here and finally remembered to look in the book when I was in the shop. Yes, when you have it in direct drive the booster gears still turn there is just no power going though them. I'd imagine you could pull out the shims for the clutch pack housing and bolt it back together but would probly be better if you took out the clutch pack and replaced it with a coupler.