Truth About Blown In Insulation - Wet Application
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- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2012
- Learn about blown in insulation. In this video we visit a new construction home
where a sticky wet cellulose material is blown into the ceiling and walls and how it is applied, sculpted and drys in place.
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True professional !
This stuff works great! We had the entire attic at our business done with this insulation (it's an older house) and it has done wonders! I also loved watching another RUclips video where they tried to set it on fire... it performed much better than almost all others!
I dense packed my plaster walls with a product called Nu-wool and I am very pleased at an 80% energy savings. My home is 84 years old but I can see this application works with new construction much the same as dense packing on existing construction. I did not get bored adding to my attic and I do have 16". My whole 5 bedroom home took 4 months (384 holes) but I took my time, did mine in fall and winter and added it slow to check thermal temps (Black and Decker TLD) after 24 hours before I closed up the insulation holes. I had the use of the machine from a friend tho. My 2k sq ft home cost $2k to insulate. I also had to insulate the 4 corners of the attic where I have 2 gables and 2 opposing dormers leaving 4 cubby holes one in each corner. I added fiberglass to 100% of the space there, floor, wall and roof.
Super workers
Add bibs and shoot in loose fill.
can you blow inorganic material aswell?
If it is no secret, what is the normal hourly rate for such work?
For attics, do you build an elevated gang plank to access attic areas after they are blown in?
No you just step on the truss bottom cord or rat runs
What is the name of this product
Haha, I was expecting some "truth" in a negative context. So far everything I've read and seen about cellulose vs blown in fiberglass points to cellulose as the winner. I have the bags I need for my garage ceiling and the truss venting installed, and I'm just waiting for availability of a second person to feed the hopper so I can run the hose and get it done.
I have these videos coming up in my suggestions seeing as I did some "research" (I know, it's not the same thing) on what I needed to know (and what not to do). Every time I watch one of these videos I get just a little more confident that I went in the right direction, and DIDN'T go with two different contractors who wanted to use fiberglass insulation.
Glad you stopped by Rob.
Is there a spray-on liquid that can be applied after an attic has been blown-in
in order to bind the top layer to prevent dust from kicking up when attic air moves around?
You could make a solution of water and white glue such as Elmers and mist the top layer until it is damp. Don't soak it. The glue will dry and encapsulate the dust in a thin crust.
if you let it cure in the wall it will set up if not it will fall out from the plate looks good beat on the wall and see and black mold but people dont pull sheet rock down too look
The previous owner of my house had this done to the attic and exterior walls. Last winter I had a leak and called in a roofer. He found that whoever had done the attic had filled up the soffits. I asked him if he could remove it and he said he doesn't do that work. Any suggestion on who I could call to get this done? The roofer didn't know either.
Bossmanrocks get you a very powerful air blower whether it be electric or gas powered and go up to the soffits and blow them from the outside in to remove all that collective insulation and allow airflow that's the easiest way
any insulation that you spray or blow in has so many potential nightmares! batt insulation can easily be removed if there is a problem or work needs to be done and if you really need extra Rvalue, just add another layer in the opposite direction
Have some problem in cellulose insulation??? The Fire is problem??? Or the Cellulose Insulation have one tecnique protection???
*The real question is: How much actual Insulation is inside each bag of insulation? Learn to ignore the measurements, the alleged thicknesses, the alleged R-value, and the stated roll sizes. A quick and simple test is to put each bag on a scale, to weigh each bag in the factory and to sell by weight. Some bags (meaning some rolls) contain 85% air. All Spun Glass and Rockwool is 'springy; it increases in size when released from the bag, but the insulation WEIGHT remains the same. Rest assured 10" inches of insulation (including cellulose shredded paper insulation) does NOT contain 10" inches, but just 1 **-to-** 2" of material. In the factory its fluffed up with air by machines and you have natural fibre induced spring-back and height increases to consider. Its a billion dollar racket!*
Is the cellulose with glue also used in attics?
Yes... Its not mixed with water though..
R3.8 x 5 1/2 inches = R20.9 Takes a lot of time to blow in I see. Fairly messy. You can use R21 fiberglass to get the same thing. The important thing to know is this: either choice does not take care of the issue with 20% of the wall touching the inside via the studs. So: 1. Get exterior foam insulation 2 don't bother using 2x6's....use 2x4 studs to save money 3. fill the 2x4 bays with whatever insulation.... you could use really cheap R11 fiberglass and spend the money to get R10 or more foam on the outside. That alone is better that just filling in 2x6 stud bays on the inside only. And don't forget to air seal the sheathing... if you have a 1 story home it's even simpler because you can buy 10 foot osb and hang it vertically...no seams! Here endeth the lesson.
Cougar Land 2x6 studs is code at least in Canada it is.
Where ( and PLEASE be EXACT) do you get this kind of info?? R 11 in a side wall?? you ever hear of things like CODE? R21 glass IS NOT R 21 glass "in the field". Ever even consider the COST of foam board AND labor to install?? Thus all figures into the ROI on any structure. ever researched AIR INFILTRATION?? ever wonder WHY furnace filters ARE MADE FROM FG?? TO LET AIR PASS THRU!! To bad ppl aren't TESTED before spewing crapola on the web
Reading this, it immediately comes off as an uneducated full of snot shit garbage comment. 20% of the wall is touching the inside via the studs. How stupid would anyone have to be to take this guys advice for anything after hearing that. What would a fire have energy from to burn through those little studs all the way and where would all the oxygen come from to support a magic fire so that it comes out of thin air to slowly burn at the studs? And then the gibberish of 2x6 vs 2x4 . If these guys had done all the stupid ass shit he's suggesting in this video instead, he would have came and commented that they should have used 2x8 and R34 space shuttle tile insulation. Etc.
Why would you spray something wet in the walls and fill the cavity? The whole back hakf of the cavity will not dry
Joshua david we had that exact problem Months without Sheetrock and still wet inside. Terrible.
This is the Warnings given to Cellulose installers : Cellulose insulation is manufactured from shredded waste paper to manufacture loft insulation, installers are advised to completely protect themselves from coming into any kind of skin contact with the product or dust - to wear safety glasses with side shields, face mask or respirator, gloves, long tight sleeves, long pants and a hat kept in place with a hair net. Cellulose insulation is synthesized chiefly from recycled newspapers. The additional components it may include are binders, skin irritants, fire retardants, ammonium sulfate, sulfuric acid, borax, boric acid, and other chemicals. Cellulose insulation presents serious health hazards if inhaled, k/as dust asthma etc, and finally, it may also carry potential cancer causing agents or carcinogens associated with the original waste paper source and printers inks. The product does settle 40% under its own weight.
+SuttonWoods
Did you know that if you drink bleach it's poisonous?
+Chad Rainey did you know there are people who drink bleach and they have been doing so for years..
moderation is key..
there couldn't be any more FALSE statements in the above spewing if this guy even tried!... 40%?? no lie....health concerns?? Ive been blowing for THIRTY YEARS and 3/4 of that time don't EVEN WEAR A MASK!...this piperson is a shill for the FG boys... nothing more. DISREGARD anything you see online he spews. Wow .. to bad you cant be tested before spewing online........sheesh.
scott bickett
Indeed you are correct. Print ink is in the table of intended use to be handled via skin contact, no matter age or health. And the GF troll could list every chemical in the universe to be 'possibly found' in CFI. Just like in bananas. Cheers from Finland! :)
Bla bla bla, show me something that is 100% not a threat in anyway. I am a plumber and hvac contractor and because of that i have a bunch of metal toxins in ma body. WHY DONT WE ALL JUST SIT AROUND AND DO NOTHING BECAUSE WE MIGHT DIE FROM IT.
What's the area code of that 6...
315
@@AdolfiRealEstate ❤✟✟✟
Johns mansville spider is better
It makes ceilings pop ..heavy, itll ruin your ceiling ...absorbs water and real heavy. Steer clear of it
What about in the walls, will that hamper things.
@@AdolfiRealEstate I would never use this anywhere I think it's a bad product
Batts are faster and cheaper, no?
Grateful Dude faster but not cheaper.
No
I do this for a living.. I don't know what these guys are setting the machine . but mine is way faster.. My machine is the krendel 5000. It holds 3 bags to start.. We mix 3 large trash cans of recycle and have the machine blowers turned alle the way up. The feed gate is about half open as not to clog the hose.. I can fill 5 cavities in about 8 minutes...its easy to insulate the exterior walls of a 2000 square foot house in 8 hours...
at that price spray foam it much better product
Wrong... Price it both ways and you'll see
$1.00 to $1.50 a square foot ... that is expensive. Why is it not sold by the cubic foot?
He might've been talking labor - to say square foot, maybe he was talking square feet of wall space. The product itself is pretty inexpensive though, I'm sure.
Because the walls could have been made from 2x10s for some crazy reason and that would have required maybe $1.50 for a square foot of area insulated. But since most walls are much thinner, he can still charge $1.50 per square foot and make double or triple than if he sold it by volume cause then a huge cube 1ft would have been able to cover like 3sq ft for whatever he priced it and like that other guy said, the labor is also accounted for this way because now he knows how long it takes per sq ft and he doesn't have to rush as he would have if he sold it at a cube ft cause then if he went slow there, he would lose money since the customer would be paying for the cube of insulation. With a sq ft it's easier for him to charge whatever he sees as worth it and maybe he includes the labor but it looks like they did a really thorough job and just probably let it cure and maybe spray over it with a sealant
shouldn't you use a mask to do that?
It's paper.
glas fiber paper, gets in your lungs and never goes out
It's wet with the water that's being mixed in to activate the adhesive (this is stabilized cellulose, for vertical application and to prevent settling) so there's really no airborne cellulose particulate floating around. Now if they were doing loose-fill, blown-in, non-stabilized cellulose, then yes masks would be a must! that would be for attics or maybe even already sheet-rocked walls via drilled holes.
that looks slow as molasses
It is slow; but, that fabric they showed on the open wall can be placed on both sides, creating a "envelope" to pack the cellulose in more densely. Somewhat faster process, but more "prep" work upfront. But, it's worth the investment in time & money. i'm in the midst of a retro job w/cellulose. Trust me, the new construction is blinding fast in comparison! :-)
You can blow it on wall faster dunno why these was so slow, maybe because demonstration?
Wood and paper chewing insects found in cellulose insulation do not appear until after they emerge from the larvae stage. Whatever the individual species, eventually they will become a nuisance in homes. DIY Products, such as cellulose paper mite wood joists tarpaint may deal with a small attic problem, however, larger or multiple infestations can occur which will require professional paper mite control measures whilst ensuring the safety of your family and pets. Cellulose insulation is made from shredded baled newspaper waste, with some but not all of it, infested with paper mites larvae or insects. For most households one spray treatment is sufficient to kill most attic based colonies.
You do know when insects ingest or come into contact with boric acid in cellulose, it kills them, so they cannot infest your insulation, right?
Why does Cellulose insulation smell. It's because they add a sweet smelling sterilizing agent to it to reduce the former waste paper bedding smell (its mostly sold for animal bedding), when collected from waste paper warehouses and dumpsters behind shops it can contain germs, ants, insects, mice, rats and wildlife droppings, so for public safety reasons it must go under the squirted on liquid sterlizor spayor . Too much sterilizor can go in in one area because the conveyot belts stopped for a paper jam, and other areas can go untreated. Its waste paper called Cellulose a trade name to improve its image and value. Now you know.
No mask ! C'mon man, really ? It's your life I suppose.
+Larry Maloney In almost 50 years I've never known a client to enquire about Cellulose Insulation, so would it be okay with you if I ask anyone who does want it to get in touch with you. You deserve each other. Take the order with my compliments. Let this schmuck have the benefit of you're wisdom. If only I could arrange this free order for you for Xmas Eve, wouldn't that be wonderful. I can imagine you saying "Look Ma, that Correspondence Course I took paid off".Just think If you book 12 Cellulose Chop Suey Paper jobs next year wouldn't that be something to be proud about. Do this for just 3 years and you'll be able to buy you're very first trailer-trash trailer, and stop paying rent. I wish you a successful and happy New Year for 2016, but will stick to our laying fibreglass insulation, fibreglass insulation, fibreglass Insulation, See, I'm just crazy about the stuff.
Welp I don't know. There is conflicting information so it is hard to find the truth but after reading what you have written here you clearly have an agenda. You are not someone I would take even a restaurant recommendation from let alone anything to do with construction standards. Further I don't believe any of your personal work history claims. I work with the best of the best in my city and they use a lot of cellulose particularly in walls but it depends on conditions. Lots of foam too. All the best tho.
A few weeks ago I read a report that in some states in America, if clients have not been told IN WRITING by the salesperson about the risks of fire with Cellulose Insulation then the order is void and the contractor cannot sue the client for payment or recovery. This does seem a good law. In some parts of the world if the order is NEGOTIATED in a private home by a caller, then the sales person must give the client a 14 days COOLING OFF PERIOD, with the legal right to cancel the deal during the said 14 days.
@@pipersson9258 Watching some videos of people trying to get this stuff to burn, they can't get it to ignite. I wonder why?