Do this before the Insulator arrives, It’s $300 well spent!
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- Опубликовано: 14 июн 2018
- Spend $300 to seriously tighten up your house with this amzn.to/2JM5MRG DIY Tip for Air and Bug Sealing!
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Important note. If you live in the southern hemisphere, you walk the house in a counter clockwise direction first.
True. However, due to Coriolis...it will happen automatically.
you already upside down once you cross the equator so you need to start at the 6 o’clock position
Jacinto Banda your absolutely right. Just to add one other important matter to consider. Since your upside down you should stand on your hands and spray with your feet. It will void your warranty if you don’t apply correctly. However if you have a buddy to help, he can do a headstand and as long as he is watching you with one eye closed, it is considered a proper installation.
Thank you for your interest our product
“Over Priced Foam In A Can”
Senior Representative Dean
Lol
@@deanmcloud3485 true.
Hey Matt...Love the thought that you put into your videos especially with regards to the insulation. As an owner of a spray foam company in the Northeast, you should never spray water or introduce water to the substrate prior to or after spraying. Chemically what happens is that the ISO (harder) reacts with the water before it reacts with the POLY (resin) thus losing the 1:1 mixing ratio. In the field this is known as B (resin) rich which causes the foam to pull from the substrate as seen at the 7:19 mark in the video.
Good insight. Thanks
What you are doing is the last thing a track home builder would do. Great stuff Matt, I have been building stuff since 79 and are learning.
I started Building in the 80’s while in HS and I’m amazed how I can still learn something new every week in this business!
Thank you Matt, can't tell you how many drafty houses I see, this will help immensely.
This is very well done video! Your voice isn't annoying, no distracting music or camera work, and your explain everything perfectly without going off on a tangent!
Hey Matt, where I live they changed code on electrical outlets last year. All of our plugs and switches have a rubber gasket around them that gets sealed between the poly and the drywall. Not sure if you've seen them before but they make a really nice seal. All the houses we build here are so tight that they need high velocity air exchangers to pump fresh air into the house.
That might be good enough to seal the rim of the box to the drywall, but you still have the openings that the wire entire the box. That needs sealed as well.
6 years ago? predicted $500 now. Nailed it
Excellent. I have been a commercial builder for 30 years and I just learned some GREAT tips for pre-insulation preparation. Thank You!!
This is a good video to also highlight issues with data/low-voltage wiring. I constantly see sub-par wiring installed, even in new houses. Once that is sealed inside insulation... game over... decent wiring will have to be installed on the outside of the house. Data wiring will always need to be upgraded every 15 to 20 years anyway so it really should become common practice to install smooth flexible pipe or conduit to every data or TV outlet in the house. Will save a ton of time effort and money upgrading data wiring in the future.
I would likewise say if your foaming around outlets its almost better to have a short piece of conduit to allow pulling wire without having to chop thru tons of insulation. You can then just pack some insulation from inside the box and take care of the remaining gaps that way.
lunacyworks pretty sure nec won’t allow for insulation in the box.
teknophyle1 no one does this. The idea would be practical on a small house but the amount of lines run on some projects would make the idea a nightmare. When standards change don’t you only need to change the CAT to HDMI terminal anyway and not the lines?
@@evilsimeon the cables have a rated data frequency as well. Cat 6 is 250MHz and will do only HDMI 1.2. 6a is rated for 500MHz and will do up to 1.4b. Cat 7 is needed to run a HDMI 2.0 signal at 600MHz. For future HDMI you would need 7a at 1GHz or Cat 8 at 2GHz
Tim Hunter thank you for the clarification. I guess that means all the prewire done in the past 20 years will be unable to take advantage of anything needing more than cat6.
We build in a climate where temperatures can vary from 110 F in the summer to -40 F in the winter. One thing we have had to do when using closed cell foam around pipes and ducts (plumbing, HVAC etc.) is to install a fiberglass wrap of insulation prior to spraying. With the extreme swings in temperature the pipes and ducts expand and contract so much that they will make loud popping sounds if the closed cell insulation is sprayed directly onto their surfaces.
@@77Avadon77 Think carefully about what badlandskid wrote and come up with a new reply please.
@@77Avadon77 badlandskid is adding insulation, by adding fiberglass INSULATION
@@jcwoods2311 I don't think he's referring to insluation, I think he's referring to a wrap that allows it to slide through the foam.
@@bob15479
Those wraps are usually insulation, with the exception of wraps intended to prevent galvanic action, that I know of.
Where in the world is it 110 in summer and -40 in winter? Arizona is 110 in summer, and Minnesota is -40 in winter ? So where do you see both? That's crazy.
Your carpenters are very skilled Matt, and thanks for this video.
These videos are awesome. I had to study a lot when I used this exact kit in sealing up a room. Matt's tips will save a lot of heartbreak, although I still recommend reading all the instructions carefully. One tip that is probably never an issue for Matt: these kits are extremely temperature sensitive and they need to be warm to work properly. That means it can't be sitting on a job site in the winter and just be ready to work. It needs to be 70 degrees or better in terms of tank temps to flow well.
You build great houses. Lots of care. I like how you think about all the different trades... So many tradespeople DON'T .... And it leads to problems. Spray foam (even canned) is so useful for sealing around existing/newly made holes - i.e. new electric outlets and all the multitool holes made by electricians :D
PIR foam contracts after a few years....
The carpentry and quality of construction looks top notch from what I can see and they go a Romex through the house?!🤔. You build a million dollar home and wire it with basically extension cords! That’s just wrong.
@@jab2359 is not Romex code compliant? There are millions of feet of this installed as long as code is followed for proper attachment, strain relief etc. Unless you are coming from the angle of using conduits to be able to easily pull in new circuits and modify later on. Commercial construction, that makes sense but for most homeowners that is usually not a high likelihood and adds more cost. ✌🏼
I was very interested in that technology. I worked on a large acre +/- roof in the 1980s that got a foam roof. I watched a video a couple years back, many contractors using the 2-component foam were screwing it up, and the houses had highly toxic gases being emitted, many people damaged, terrible.
Unfortunately, that is still happening. Many times, they put too much on, making it too thick, which does not allow the product to cure properly or let the solvents escape before the outer layer dries. Or, I have also seen contractors use the type of foam that is only supposed to be used in places like warehouses or large buildings that are mostly open for ventilation in an enclosed area.
Matt, keep up the good work, great attention to details. I've grown to trust you and your suggestions.
One day I want to say "my framers" that be pretty cool 😎
Much blessings in all your jobs 🙏
Best time to walk the house is just as the sun is coming up and walk the house with spray paint and you will see every spot daylight is penetrating the home. Mark all spots with paint then go back and foam or caulk all these air penetrations. Do not forget to caulk all the sill plates at the floor. This must be done right before insulation after all MEP's are done. Doing this will seal up your home very well and if you are building to Energy Star ratings this is a must do.
It's also the nicest time to walk around the house too, especially if it's still quiet and you have a fresh coffee.
I would like to see more on the ac in that place looked like it had tons of vents in the room you were in.
Buy ETH
It’s been 12 years since I built a house and things sure have come a long way with layering the insulation and concepts regarding moisture management. Thanks so much for making these videos as my wife and I are thinking of building new or buying a full guy on the right piece of earth!
Ever end up buying that full guy?
This is a GREAT tip. I've been wondering how to get the best of both worlds; spray foam to air seal but try to keep the cost down. A mixture of this and batting is a great solution. And I like what you did with blocking off that little area so it doesn't make it hard to put the batting in later.
When PU foam is exposed to sunlight (UV) it decomposes easily. Best to prime and paint foam exposed natural daylight.
All the foam he sprayed (not very well) will be covered before the house is finished. So need need to paint. It won't degrade appreciably in just a few weeks of being exposed to light.
Let us know when the sun shines in an enclosed wall...
Love your vids, I have learned a ton. Also cool spotting your son sporting a #demolitionranch shirt.
Great looking product. I only wish now in 2023 it was only $300. It is now twice that!!
i love these types of videos because it seems like Matt hates all bugs as much as I do. Anything to keep any creepy crawlies Outside is worth a watch and a like.
Tip: Make sure your electric boxes are at their EXACT depth you need, like for tile wall, or flush for painted wall. Once Closed-cell foam is sprayed, you will never get to change their depth. Make sure to get can of GreatStuff Gun cleaner for every couple of cans of GreatStuff--you need to clean after every use.
Matt: can you tell the Greatstuff folks that their stuff (pun) is like a 50% chance of getting a can that won't work? Frustrating to buy 6 cans, get to job, start working and the 3rd can in, doesn't work (it like the gas is gone).
I've never moved a box for depth reasons once it was installed. I use longer screws to attach cover plate in a tiled area. There are also box extenders if absolutely necessary.
I've had my great stuff gun with a can in it for months and it's never clogged up on me. Turn it upside down as instructed. I take a knife and cut the big chunks off the end covering up the tip and it's good to go.
They have filler pieces for this.
Yes, as I just said above your comment.
I've had pretty good luck with their cans from high-volume retailers like HD and WallMart; could it be that your retailer is keeping them around past their shelf life?
@@pcno2832 yes, and I look at All exasperation dates when I buy them for that reason, and if you over buy and use it for the next job it could fail.
Matt, you’ve gotten really good. Thank you! - Davin of Georgetown
My Son works for Dow and sells Froth Pak and Great Stuff all around the world. I can tell you, the stuff is GREAT. Good tip this time Matt.
I flip houses for a living. working for real estate agents it's always about saving a nickel here and a dime there. I would love to do a job where quality was the number one goal. it looks like you've got that job Matt. lucky man.
Nice informative video, but I do have a couple of questions.
Do you have any regulations in the U.S regarding the contact of foam insulation with cables? Here in the U.K you can't bury cables in foam as the styrene content destroys the elastomer in the cables pvc sheath resulting in early deterioration in insulation resistance etc.
Also if you bury a cable in insulation, for every 500mm the cable will lose approx 50% of it's current carrying capacity.
I'm not criticising your methods, I'm just interested in how other countries operate.
Love that your son has a demolition ranch shirt on!
this makes me VERY Glad I live in Brisbane Australia where it doesn't get even remotely cold enough to require this crazy level of insulation.
Two words...GOOD STUFF!!!...VERY, VERY HELPFUL...thank you
I personally would want fire resistant foam for any house to garage, basement/attic to floor/ ceiling openings.
Adam Newman Code required where I am.
@@evilsimeon As it should be everywhere safety wise.
Frothpak is a fire resistant product. I don't know to what level but they advertise it as having fire resistant properties
One thing I noticed was that you have to be careful about spraying behind water lines (especially larger drain lines). The expanding foam can push your line outside the stud wall, making it impossible to put drywall up flat.
Really? Oh, come on, everyone knows that drywall straightens bowed studs, out of plumb walls, wavy trusses and also has the added benifit of fixing leaky plumbing! (Actually not to many people know that one...shhhh, we'll keep it a secret! )
If you have areas where the Electrical or Water lines penetrates to the outside etcetera. You might want to secure it extra to prevent this. With perhaps an extra piece of wood and clamp. Keep it in place. Plus, if you use this type of foam. You might want to avoid overspraying.
Beyond that. I dunno. Spray foaming isn't common where I live. More common with Sawdust/Rockwool or one other type which I do not remember.
I had this problem when spray foam pushed my central vacuum lines. Definitely something to watch out for.
@@Helveteshit fibreglass insulation
Great video and good ideas as always. Two things I observed: while you still have to keep moving, a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the tip will keep foam spray from accumulating on it and make your work cleaner. The second is that you seem to be spraying pretty thick layers in places. Usual instructions are to only spray something like an inch unexpanded otherwise it doesn’t expand properly and you waste a lot of material. Or you can get too much heat in the reaction (have seen fires with kits this small, but another commenter mentions it).
Sealing all holes though exterior sheathing is required by code. Usually inspected during framing inspection. Small cans are far less messy than the big tanks. Just built a 6000sqf house and spent less than $100 on small cans. Make sure your insulators seals all your sill plates , doors and windows with calk before they install the insulation.
Cable installer nightmare house
uaedaien when customer wants a jack at a particular wall that has no jacks
Cable installers just drill through the floors and outside walls anyway. I’ve never seen one fish a wall.
@@rs4mtnitro , I was a licensed telecommunications installation tech for a number of years, primarily for commercial buildings, but I also did a lot of side jobs on in-home wiring for TV, speakers in every room and home theater systems and such. I "fished" walls all the time! But it's true, a lot of cable and satellite dish installers didn't and don't care what the finished job looks like and didn't care if they were drilling a hole in a hardwood floor. Most of them would staple the cable to the outside of the house and run it three quarters of the way around, rather than run it through a basement or attic and fish it up or down a wall.
Matt really hates those bugs!
I've always like this thumbnail because it describes the challenge of the order in which trades do what. If the electrician comes last, the walls are already closed and there's no opportunity to seal those huge gaps where the Romex comes into the box.
That 300 dollar spray foam kit works great for insulating undersides of rv's and travel trailers !
One of the best content creator on RUclips when it comes to Building ( if not the best). You sir are inspiring .
SWEET DEMOLITION RANCH SHIRT!
I know, I have one too. I love watching it with my boys
Great information. Couple of tips when I did my rim joists. You can clean the tips with Acetone. Make sure you use the petroleum jelly that they provide on the nozzle tips.
Also you have a good wheeled mop bucket you can put the foam cans in so that can just pull bucket along with you as you spray.
theKingslacker he he he you said rim...
Great tips, I have brought in closed cell spray foam company and fill up a 2 by 6 cavity by 1" and the rest fill up with Rockwool insulation. It is faster and more cost efficient when time is a main factor.
GET THE SUIT!!!
And like he said COVER your hair!
This stuff is messy. Extremely messy! But it does a great job.
It causes sever cancer you idiot
@@jordansme1234567 it poses no risk to installer or occupants if the directions are followed during install. I can get you the links to all material safety data sheets if you want proof
@@ianholmquist8492 ive worked with it for 15 years... anyone who doesnt do the job right by mismixing or overspraying leads to offgassing of chemicals so complex i doubt you would understand their effect on the p52 gene of the lungs...
great idea, details count. too bad most houses are full of missed details.
Thank you for using correct PPE.
Great tip and very nice explanation, thank you!
i went thru at least 4 electricians and half a dozen insulators to get the job done 3/4s right
johnny llooddte you sound like the perfect client.
Wow... As easy as a first fix on a US built house would be, I'm quite glad my UK house was built out of stone and brick.
monkehbitch why it has almost no benefit over wood construction. More costly, less seismic proof. Worse insulation ect.
This house is like a coffin its sealed shut and is not healthy brick house is actually very good at retaining heat and they are ofc insulated aswell as the bricks
No benefit? The UK has a very warm & wet climate. Disastrous to timber regarding damp, rot & wood boring insects. Also, brick built home can last for hundreds of years and fire risk is low.
I can't see building houses with stone and brick in the US. The population of the US is quite a bit larger than England and Ireland combined. A means of building houses quickly is needed. Houses are built to withstand normal accidents. Vehicles will punch through, termites can each up the wood frame houses. However houses in certain areas have their own building codes. Such as California requiring certain construction techniques for earthquake resistance, which by the way, there are old brick buildings in some earthquake prone areas such as San Francisco. Eventually all of these unenforced brick buildings will be upgraded or taken down. Florida has its own building to account for hurricanes. But overall houses needed to be built quick enough to house the much larger population. It's like Germany's autobahn. It's economically feasible to built those highways thicker in Germany than the highways in most parts of the US. It would be nice if the highways could optimally be built to last longer, but the US simply has a huge amount of highways built. Brick and stone houses can and has been built in the US. Now a days it will be a custom house.
@@Rhaspun will be interesting to see if anything changes in California regarding fire risk. It was the great fire of London that stopped timber houses being built in London. Although that was because it was the densely packed houses spreading the fire which I don't think it is in Cali.
Loving these videos during this Corona lock down!
I have seen these kits usually for about $550. They seem to work great! however, you need to keep spraying after you start, if you stop spraying for more than 30 seconds you need to replace the nozzle. so get a few extra nozzles when you order this stuff.
Spray foam instructions...just the tip 😂😂😂
Reprisenting fellow #Texan with #DemolitionRanch merch!
Excellent video. I plan to seal my garage. Thanks.
A lot of people don't know about weatherization. We are doing a lot of good work and discovering a lot about "tightening" up houses.
Always make sure you spray any and all water lines because you will never ever have to replace them .
haha no.... that's a good way to hide a water leak for a very long time and cause much more damage since you wont notice it. The plumber who has to fix it will one pissed off person when they have to remove it to even figure out where the leak is.
@@blake102989 Whoosh! Did you hear that? That's the sound of the joke flying right over your head...
lol
Saw foam on that poly pipe. Uponor specifies no foam contact to the pipe.
Yup, exactly, not on any pex or hydronic rated pex. On domestic drinking lines the chemicals in foam can leach through the pipe into the drinking water.
Wow. Id have never thought of that
This comment made me go back and rhink about a lot of projects but i think im good.
Agreed! My parents had major water damage due to poor insulation.
That would be due to a poor water barrier on the exterior of the house envelope. Insulation is not meant to be the primary water barrier in the construction of a house.
Matt, would love to see more things a home owner can do or have done with out a large scale remodel.
For example I am in Houston and have a 1930 block and beam(no pier just blocks on bare ground) with original windows.... Everything super leaky.
What are my options?
Do you need to worry about compatibility with the electrical cables and other plastics?
Here in NZ, you absolutely cannot run PVC cables in contact with polyurethane or polystyrene foam insulation unless it's the special purple cable or is protected by flexible conduit or similar - it rips all the plasticiser out of the cable and makes it brittle.
Good question. Honestly don’t know the answer. Will research this
same in norway^
Same everywhere in Europe
Hmm...that's interesting. It sounds more like an urban myth, though. In the real world I have NEVER seen PVC-clad cabling damaged in any way by contact with polyurethane or polystyrene. Are there any chemists out there?
Romex (nm /most wiring in residential use in USA). is not pvc it is oil and Solvant resistant and rated to higher Temps then external rated pvc clad wiring
Great stuff isn't closed cell, found that out the hard way in my boat.
@Team Dada yeah, what happened?
I almost don't care what the video is about, as long as I get my "On The BUILD Show" with that smirk at the end... Pure gold!! Also, great video as usual, Matt.
Ha! Thanks Chris. Did that move on a whim a few years back and it’s now my signature move. My “Blue Steel” :)
Doing my basement soon, thanks for this advice.
Universal Steele I’m sorry but do not follow this advice. Check with someone who honestly installs the foam. Some foams react with water and it will not cure correctly. And there is no point in foaming things that will get foamed in the first place. Save yourself Some time and money. The foam we use one barrel “ side A and B different chemicals” will not cure if there is moisture on the surface it is being applied to. If there is it will not set up correctly and you are going to have problems. Just advice from someone who has been insulating houses for 16 yrs.
LOL enjoy electrical remodels in ten years.
Cashin, Running new wire through your existing fiberglass insulation is going to damage the fiberglass.
WHY would one need to rewire in TEN years?
You can easily drill through this if you need to run new wires, and it'll cut with a hand or saws-all, no problem.
How often do people even remodel realistically? I must say that no one in my family has ever remodeled a home. The only major work ever carried out was replacing the floors of our house when it was damaged by water. No one I know has remodeled their homes either. It's not common as far as I can tell. The only ones remodeling that I've witnessed are people flipping houses. Normal people don't do that.
@@brianlofton2489 to add outlets and lights or adding 220 for man cave machines for DIY'ers
An electrician's nightmare. No repairs can be made without major destruction to wallboard or exterior wall.
exactly, why not run these electrical, telephone lines along a canal about 2 inch thick 2 inch deep with a cover that can be opened by screws.. that way no wall don't have to be destroyed when you upgrade or run maintenance on the lines...
M Detlef. All electrical outlets need repair if given enough time. Besides that have you ever heard of the words accident or upgrade if not look them up in a thing called a dictionary.
As an electrical contractor for 27 years, if it’s wired correctly with care, then this won’t make a difference. The wiring will last for 100+ years. When quality is the true focus, you don’t avoid something just because it makes it a little more difficult to do a repair or an addition in the future.
Was not arguing that point i am worried about a child doing it wrong but keep it up idiot
Go buy it then and do more work, more money, more clean up and harder to make repairs for a result that can be obtained way easier, cheaper and less environmental impact. But you go ahead Mr 27 yrs and did not learn to spot a dam crapy product on an infomercal. I would never hire your company and will let my friends know also and I have been construction for 33 yrs but I retired cause I did not fall for obvious scams like you. But go ahead idiot keep screwing your customers.
This house will last 1000 years lol. It's beautiful!
Serious attention to detail; wow!
It wasn't necessary to spray so heavy, just covering the seams-cracks and voids stops the penetration. Nice job though, but over kill.
Definitely an overkill, but it is a SALES pitch = The more you spray the more they $ell ;-)
It is also a use it or dump it situation so you may as well use up the canisters even if it is overkill for much of the job.
Why aren’t you using exterior wall outlet boxes?
My guess is there will be some sort stone on that wall and have a exterior box extension. But your right i would still use a exterior box in this case
the exterior boxes go on top of the stucco/siding where they are exposed to the weather this are inside and not exposed to the weather they only need a waterproof cover and gfi.
ZGreat video Matt! Doing a whole house remodel soon and we will definitely do this,
#sinnisjInsulator. It's a good and easy product to use.
I just got done remodeling my basement. Lol. Wished I'd of seen this beforehand.
Doesn't a good insulation contractor already do this? Especially when you're having it sprayed?
Right. He should have said that at beginning.
I guess it would depend on what you're paying them to do. Matt was doing the closed cell only at penetrations for Air/moisture barrier, then was using Open cell and rock wool. I imagine he could have paid the insulator to do the closed cell stuff too.
"Good" is the tricky part of that question. Hard to find good workers anymore.
Mine does. They also caulk all plates and any stud gaps.
Yes indeed ,
What do you think about spraying duct work with this stuff Matt? My ducts are all in the crawl space and I thought this might be a good plan? I was assuming I would need them to be dry. Would it be better to spray them while damp?
Depending on exactly what/where you're talking about, it wouldn't make much sense to spray duct work terminations, unless you have it coming out of an unheated basement or unheated or cooled attic. In that case sure, you could do that but keep in mind what he said about the cure time and going through a lot of nozzles. You can't easily crawl around and hit everything fast with that setup so I would sooner use a 1 part spray can. Keep in mind that since all the terminations are going to have covers over them, that you don't necessarily need to get at them from the back side, can do them from the interior of the room as it's not quite the same as closing off outdoor air where you need insulation and insect blocking as much as just stopping airflow.
It would probably work well on metal ductwork
Good concept.Think about maintenance, especially the electrical ones that are tightly sealed now.
Wish you were in Virginia! I have a 700 square foot home. Built 1950 no subfloors or insulation in the walls. Lol. Well I’m about to put 10,000 into it, so it’s warm and more functional home. Fingers crossed!
After watching what happened to the health of some home owners after having dual-component spray foam applied by PROFESSIONALS in their house, I'm not going to allow it in my new home.
Can you explain?
@@jacksonfev There are many reports of 2-part foam insulation being installed (by professionals) incorrectly resulting in offgassing so bad that the owners had to leave their homes and whose health was adversely affected for at least a very long time, if not forever. Additionally the foam had to be completely removed resulting in the complete removal of a roof in at least one case. And the foam companies were not quick to take responsibility (if they did at all). Might not happen often but my health isn't something I'm going to risk.
Djinn-1 hjk
I am also concerned about safety. It seems Matt has used SPF for many years and I am curious to hear about proper temp/humidity for curing foam correctly. www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/epa-more-data-needed-to-ensure-spray-foam-safety
Very wise. Here in the Netherlands a lot of underfloors have been insulated with pu foam. A lot of people have developed over sensitiveness for the stuff and now cannot even bear the smallest exposure. However there are now insulators coming up with water based pu foam
I feel like spray foam is the sign of a lazy contractor, like I get it's an industry standard but i just feel it's better to put the time and effort into sealing the exterior. And if you're really tripping about the bugs, which i assure you will find a way in no matter what, put diatomaceous earth under sill plates and run a fat bead of caulk behind the bottems of your base before install. Yes like this video is just a big plug for this foam company imo
szymoozzmwewewew
It's industry standard for a reason though.. because it is the best insulation you can buy. However, any froth pack like he used is crap) no substitute for proper 2lb density closed cell foam from a proportioner.
Hi Matt, thanks for sharing. This will be great on remodel kitchen where i can see daylight in some areas by concrete and bottom plate meet. Wonder if they make this in small bottles, as I dont need that much!
Tell your son how lucky he is to have you as a dad, he may not know it yet and coming from someone else it might actually mean something!!
Hold up there. Don’t be spraying water on uncured foam. Not sure where you’re getting your info from on that. Moisture reacts with the foam and causes a poor reaction, shrinkage and such. The 2 part component foam reacts fully with itself and not moisture from the air. Single part components like Gorrilla glue and like things use moisture from the air to cure out.
Maxima please prove it then. I’m not always right, but I have been in the spray polyurethane foam industry for 8 years now and this is the opposite of what you would want to do from everything I’ve learned and heard from manufacturers. They actually use water as an ingredient in some foam to increase yields, but a wet substrate or even to humid of air can cause the reaction to be off. In most cases extra moisture will cause the foam to blister, pinhole or shrink.
I looked at the instructions PDF and couldn't find anything like this. water is only mentioned for using soap and water for cleanup or spillage
I've stopped taking Matt's word. It's almost always an inspiring starting point with good broad ideas, but then you need to get facts from somewhere else.
Hmmm... Who are you going to trust? Someone who builds homes for a living or some random know it all in the comments?
@qwerty22 - what a dumb comment. Because he 'builds homes' doesn't mean he knows everything. Insulation is certainly not his field of expertise either.
FoamItGreen is another good 2part closed cell foam product.
*Matt have you considered fire proof adhesive red clay* 🤔 Since it's fire rated, for fireplaces- seal up duct leaks
This product will transition to the exterior electrical boxes & other areas.
Not so toxic and no mixing in tips 😝
Also comes in a chalking tube.
Smart, and for $300 that seems well worth it, if just for bugs alone
#DemolitionRanch 4:08 woohoo
I knew the Demolitia would be in the comments somewhere.
I just noticed that as well!
Saw that as well
Is that really Matt's son?
its another matt
Do I go around the house counterclockwise if I’m south of the equator?
I remember using my bare-hand to remove excess "Great stuff" from a mouse hole in my grage. Im pretty sure everyone thought I had psoriasis. Took a whole week to remove. Best part... I tried to run it under water and rub my hands together. Use protection! Rubber up!
Great attention to detail.
Just remember the spray foam nightmares, read up before you think it’s a good idea to use that shit, or the ones where they had to rip it back out and the one where they removed the whole roof from the house
He's not talking about insulating the entire house with it, just large gaps and points of entry. I don't know that it would be the same concern.
What happens to the metal canisters after you're done? Can you refill them? If not, can you recycle the metal or do they go into a landfill?
I throw mine in a creek next to my house. They float away to happy land and I don’t have to worry about their unsightliness.
Joe Bauers But who takes them? Our city won’t.
aayotechnology
Alot of times city dump will have a hazard collection facility. Call and ask.
Some recyclers will require the valve to be removed (open to atmosphere) so they know it is just metal and no explosive gas in it.
They are junk, even before you start the project. So just hire a professional with a high pressure spray foam rig to do it for less.
Christopher Gruenwald
Just tell the guy to seal specific things while insulating and.. have them add a couple hundred to final cost.
Try cleaning the tips with acetone for extended use. You can usually get foam off of cloths with acetone if you're fast enough.
BlindAF verɪfɪed Carburetor cleaner works like a champ... in case you’re looking for another solution.
Glycol Ether works pretty good.
I would like to also add that the quality and materials with which build house are best I’ve seen...you don’t find hardly any contractors that do the kind of work your company does. Thx for your workmanship it doesn’t exist anymore these days in my opinion.
Too much trouble for the "benefits. The can foam is more rigid and easier and cheaper to apply. Most of those cracks & gaps are easily (and cheaply) filled & sealed with cheap calk and/or joint compound. Why make it any more complicated. Save the cost and get a better seal by avoiding froth packs.
Or just use a silicon sealer
@@England91 I believe "silicone sealer" comes under the heading, "caulk." Anything is better than what he is selling.
@@larrymaloney877 yeah, foam is for insulation/ballast
Or you can just hire a professional spray foamer to do the entire wall with closed cell insulation.
I was wondering why Matt didn't do this. He doesn't mention it at all.
There are some concerns about smell if it doesn't have a month to cure or is too thick.
Very expensive and don't even think about making changes afterwards or fishing a wire. Also, installers have to be so exact on spraying enough foam so it fills the cavity once fully expanded vs not spraying enough.
I've used that stuff, very handy for small jobs but is very pricy for say an entire garage outer wall. If I'm not mistaken it's $2/ board feet. Getting a foam contractor may be cheaper. In our company it would be lol.
Thanks for the info! 👍👊
Making homes to “tight” is not good for you or your home.
Spray foam products are not healthy for you or our planet.
They off gas or years
They allow termites to do major damage before detection can cause Roofer’s to remove large amounts of this foam to trace leaks in the roof ac coils located in the attic that’s foamed tend to fail at 6 to 7 years of age regardless of brand. 10 years or more is a good average for a coil before leaking.
A well ventilated attic space with a properly sized HVAC system with properly sized ductwork will do more for your energy bill than a can of spray foam. And will clean your air instead of polluting it.
They also currently say that global warming is not a issue and that man and fossil fuels have little or no impact on the environment.
Demo ranch:_)
Matt, another great video! As a homeowner, I want to air-seal my attic in effort to remedy mold growth on the roof sheathing. Is this the BEST foam to use to seal the can-lights, HVAC, plumbing, electrical penetrations? I like to do this job this fall (2021). Thanks for any comments.
Great stuff Matt.