John Deere 1010 Engine Rebuild.
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2024
- Rebuilding a John Deere 1010 diesel engine, from the block and pistons, the head and valves, to running again, maybe?
Area diesel service video: • Obsolete ADE Type "Dum...
Hazard Fraught transmission jack nearly collapses here: • Dump Truck Repair: Clu...
Questions, etc:
1. I didn't address the ring gap in the video. Those rings are fitted for nominal size, intended to be "drop-in" right out of the box. They have plenty of gap, but I wish I had talked about it in the video. It's definitely important to make sure the ring gap is above the minimum! If they are too tight, they will get hot, the gap will close, and then the rings push too hard against the cylinder walls and do damage.
2. Many have questioned that I put oil behind the bearings (between the rod bearings and the rod/cap.) Thanks for this, you guys have taught me something. My thinking on oiling them was because they were oily when I disassembled them, I didn't want condensation to cause rust, and there was a cross hatch machined into the rod and cap surfaces which I assumed was for oil carrying. I now know the concern is that the lubrication back there can cause a spun bearing. I'm doubtful, because with oil being pumped in between the bearing and the journal, I think it's unlikely that the friction between the bearing and the rod will ever be less than with the journal. The oil also changes the clearance a tiny bit, but my journals had some wear on them so that won't be a problem. All that said, I think I will do them dry in the future.
3. What were the metal bits I found in the bell housing? One clever person commented that those metal bits were probably the gear teeth from a previous starter. That’s what they look like, and I think he is right. If the bendix gear teeth break off they would fall down into that space and remain there under the engine is removed. You guys are smart!
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#johndeere #enginerebuild #diesel #farmlife #farmcraft101 #farming #farmer 
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I'm always going between "Oh man, it's been a while since the last FarmCraft101 video" and "How can one man do this much in such a short timespan?". Thanks for another great one!
His wife too! The behind the scenes helper
No kidding, I feel like a schmuck with how much I get done around the house!
Exactly what i feel too
My father is a retired diesel master tech he said you did everything right . He said the old pistons always were a problem leaking oil. Be proud you done good, and that’s coming from an old Italian that never says good job . Keep up the videos he loves them.
You mean he even saw the bit of oil in-between the bearing shells and didn't have a problem with it like many other did? 🤔
@@dans_Learning_Curvewhat, the black color? Dude as soon as that engine fires those journals get flooded. They’re the first thing that gets oil.
Bearing shells always go into the rod and cap DRY, lube the inside of the bearing only, do not touch the bearing with your bare fingers as the natural oil on the skin is acidic enough to etch the bearing. when the rod bolts are torqued to spec. the bearing is crushed into position, no room behind it for oil to be. the dry metal to metal contact under the crush pressure creates important friction that helps to prevent spinning a bearing. @@dans_Learning_Curve
@wannagofacofflavazza6809 Big thanks. That's good to hear, because there's a lot to know in doing this for a jack of all trades like me. I definitely want to learn if there are things that I'm doing wrong or could do better. Some people say I shouldn't have put oil between the rod bearings and the caps and rods, for instance. Well, they were oily when I took them out, and there was even a cross hatch machined into the rods and caps which tells me the engineers intended for that to carry oil. It seems many people think that oiling this will cause a bearing to spin. I'm doubtful of that obviously, especially since they were oily on disassembly, I don't see how it can be expected that they will stay dry sloshing around in an oily crankcase. Buy maybe in the future I will put them in dry. Always more to learn...
I'd say you're verging on Master of all Trades. I've not seen you do a single thing that hasn't come out looking good @@FarmCraft101
There’s no such thing as a “long enough video” from FarmCraft101! Just keep ’em coming John… we enjoy every minute of this!
Yep I just pause and watch the rest when I wake up sometimes. I've enjoyed the series.
Im pretty sure most of us could watch a 4hr long video if need be ... your videos are never boring and enjoyable from start to finish no matter their lenth
so true. they really are never boring, and i cant quite figure out why. he is just talented at this i guess
That spring compressor tool is dammed cleverly thought out!! I often find myself in a similar situation - solve a problem as easy as possible with whatever is at hand - and if it is elegant it is an added bonus!
Yes I thought so too. It worked on a toggle principle - I think. He's a clever🙃 fellow. Best regards.
Basically a bench dog or bar clamp
Woah filling the WD40 can with compressed air at 33:19 just blew my mind! Thanks for that trick!
I must admit that was pretty slick....
This is the correct denifition of: monumental work. Wow 😊
I love that you make these videos so that people like me that only have a rudimentary understanding of how an engine work are still be able to grasp it and follow along. 🙏
I second that.
So true
Oh man ❤❤❤❤ a 1hr 40 min post from Farmcraft101 ... This will be a beautiful weekend
yessssss!!
I think we’ve established this is a fantastic channel. Another great episode. Thank you.
Thank you!
Only ever hear good things about Area Diesel Service....they must be a class outfit, and have a brilliant reputation. They always seem to go the extra mile for customers. No wonder a lot of RUclipsrs are always giving them a well deserved shout out...😊👍
John - it was the toughest 3 hours of my week: the time between seeing your post on my phone’s notification screen and being able to actually sit and watch your post.
I’m all in on being a FarmCraft101 fan!!
John, as an engine builder, here is what I can tell you. Lapping the valves was performed very well, but there is a coarse and fine grit, not sure which one you had but they are both to be used. Second, honing the cylinders is actually more involved than people think. The cross hatch angle is typically 45 degrees, but longer stroke engines can be 60 degrees. This angle is controlled by the speed up & down and honing head rpm. These cross hatch cuts are for oil to lie in to lubricate piston. Too many cuts at improper angles can cause excess oil in cylinder and smoking. Just want to help..very good educational video..👍🏻
About 65 years ago I used to love to help my dad decoke car engines and I used to grind the valves in but then it was a wooden stick with a rubber sucker on it. I’m 76 now but it really takes me back in time. Thank you.
Honeing: the oil is not for lubrication at all. It serves two purposes. One, control heat. But, most importantly, wash the swarf away. If you end up with that grey sludge in the bores when honeing? You are not using enough oil. There is a reason every commercially available honeing machine in the world floods the cyclinder with oil the entire time the stones are in contact with the bore. It never ceases to amaze me how this so very important fact slips past so many "engine builders". I understand, "you don't know, what you don't know". Now you know. When I hone, I set up a large drip pan under the block as close as I can to minimize the mess, with 3-4gals of diesel in it, and a pump/hose rigged up on a mag-base to flood the bore. Works fantastic. Nothing wrong with a parts-house three-legged hone. Just keep those stones clean. You will end up with straighter, rounder bores. Spend WAY less times because clean stones cut way faster. And the stones will last much longer. And, I absolutely love your valve spring compressor! Good stuff! One other note for future reference: no oil between outer bearing shell and rod/block. That oil film will affect tolerance on start-up, AND final torque reading on associated fasteners. I've actually proven this one myself with a bolt-stretch gauge to end a years old heated debate with a good buddy, LOL! After we shared a 6pk and all was right in the world, HAHA.
I was taught that vegetable oil was the proper lubricant because it washes out with soap and water. But I was also taught that there is no reason to "hone" a cylinder if you didn't bore it. You are not doing anything unless you are just removing debris. A cylinder is a size, i.e. A,B,C,D and you are not going to open it up appreciably unless you spend all day in one cylinder, and you have no way to keep it parallel with the crankshaft. Some people call it [honing] "glaze busting" but there is no reason to "glaze bust." If you don't believe it just rebuild an engine w/ out "glaze busting" it. You will experience a short period of less ring sealing befor they seat into the bores, but you trade longer ring life. That is especially true of todays low tension piston rings. ben/ michigan
@@benjamincresswell3713 Not calling you out here in any way. Just talking shop and sharing 40yrs expereince. (taught by a master who build many race winning engines for famous drag racers). New rings will never "properly" seat to a glazed cylinder. Nor will they last longer. They will promote heat and cost efficiency. That engine with new rigns in glazed holes will never get good fuel mileage, run hot, and use lots of oil. The valves will have so much carbon buildup the dang thing will run like crap in no time. And if it is an older EGR equipped engine? That will also be a nightmare in no time. True, each different ring technology brings its own needed surface treatment on the cylinder wall. Crosshatch angle, finish RA, Plateau, delta. There is a lot going on here. But, John is doing a backyard rebuild of a very old, very low tech, diesel. 98% of what he did was spot on. Only things I would have done different would have been more flush while honing. You heard him say he went through 3 sets of stones, right. I usually get 3 or 4 big block Chryslers out of a set of those stones. It doesn't take that long to remove .005" out of a 3"-4" ish hole with one of those hones with a really good flush flowing while honing. And protectors on those dangling rod bolts so as not to nick the crank during install. As for oil, scalding hot water and Dawn dish-soap will wash just about any oil out of a block. I do a two step wash. First solvent (usually plain old gasoline, EPA be damned! (I do get rid of it properly)). Then the scalding water/Dawn. I've done lots of high budget, fully machined builds. But, also countless backyard builds just like this, and a guy can get fantastic results with good practices. Modern engines don't really lend themselves to this fun stuff. But, anything with iron holes, and low tech rings, will come right back to life. Fun fact: Chrysler service manuals for iron V8's states a .010" overbore is premissable with stock pistons on all B/RB engines. I've done this personally a few times, with a silly 3-legged hone. One of these engines is still plowing my old neighbor in PA's driveway in the winter, and chasing parts in the summer, 30 years later.
best advice here. I had to comment on the rod bolts. I especially cringed when he rotated without caps. I've disassembled engines without protectors only lateer to decide to use the crank. I also was concerned about his leaving a ridge at the top of the bore. I'm not a big fan of the style hone/glaze breaker he used. I like the lisle hone but they are about 10x the cost of what he used. @@wheelieking71
So you use oil or diesel when honing?
Have been an automotive diesel engine machinist since I was 18 in 1990.
Read through your comments and quickly understood you’ve put your days into and around the trade.
Very evident you’ve hung around the machine shops if not been employed in a few. I’ll keep that bit of understanding to myself.
I’ll say you’re lending straight forward information that people should adhere to.
You’re right about glazed cylinders. A popular tribologist that posts quite a bit of information on social media places finite detailed focus on cross hatch procedures and parameters. Bottom line. The engine oil is the final gasket seal in the cylinder. Without those crosshatches having any depth to hold oil molecules, the rings receive no lubrication. Increased heat is the consequence. Ring tension loss is the result along with the associated blow by.
These days in my machine shop we no longer use vitrified honing stones. We have tool steel honing “shoes” with bonded CBN (cubic boron nitride) or PCD (poly crystalline diamond) in various grits. They do not wear or taper. If you’re seeing cylinder taper during the honing process it is operator error. We can easily keep a cylinder within .0002” t.i.r. even less in some cases. At that, modern engines have top compression rings that are under 1 mm in thickness so they’re about the same thickness of the upper and lower oil control rings you see going into this engine.
So our once fancy tenth of a thousandth reading dial bore gauges aren’t enough to qualify the cylinder. We have to use a surface profilometer to match the ring manufacturers surface finish parameters. Engine stroke dictates the angle of the cross hatch and this has to be quantified as well. A real PIA to get acclimated to but when you begins to see the definite increases and improvements it makes it all worth it. Cylinders do not wear like they once did.
Still yet it’s fun to see it done similarly to the days passed. No worries. No hurries. Just get it done as good as conditions allow. Which was what I witnessed here.
Didn’t catch the oil going behind the bearings but for sure that’s not the way to do it.
I was a bit concerned with the choice of which ring to eliminate on the new design pistons. I would have used the bottom ring out of the new ring package and eliminated one of the middle rings out of the equation.
It also frightens me to see what I’m guessing is ether to start this new engine. I’m quite certain this is what broke the rings and ring lands in the old pistons, but I’ve struggled with air in a diesel fuel system myself and I can’t lend the advice on how to get the air out in these situations but I do have diesel mechanic customers that know how. I just hope that wasn’t ether and if it was I hope it didn’t serve up a big plate of harsh lessons learned.
Have a good one!
The John Deere 1010 Content Generator :) I noticed that it looked like the head bolts weren't lightly oiled when you dropped them in. That will throw off your torque values. Awesome job, really enjoyed this one.
They were very oily when I took them out and all I did was wire wheel them to clean them up a bit. So a thin film of oil was still on them. Not enough? I dunno.
You will be fine 😂
A little difference won't kill this old behemoth@@FarmCraft101
I got unreasonably excited when I saw that pressure plate because Kurtis from Cutting Edge Engineering was also talking about them this morning. According to him that’s gonna have to be rebuilt.
Yep…heard those springs rattling
Cutting edge is a great web site along with farmcraft
That’s funny I was also watching that same video this morning. Good minds think a like👍
I wondered too when i heard the rattling sound
I agree - based on what Curtis said, John's needs rebuilt.
John fixing this beauty, Cutting Edge Engineering rebuilding his yard crane and myMechanics going all out on his car. What a time to be alive!
Thanks for the great videos!
I saw a CEE stickeron ICWELD's truck
We're in for a long ride on some awesome content coming up
CEE is a top Channel followed Curtis for a while now. The crane content is going to be epic. Great video @farmcraft101
Dear John, please don't always call yourself an idiot. I can't judge your work but I can read in the comments that you did everything right. For me as an old man, your videos are very good entertainment. Every time I enjoy your background comments, your camera angles, your wit and mischief. Thank you for your videos. Stay healthy! Best regards from Southeast Asia
John the thing I absolutely love about your videos is the creative way you get around problems. Im 30 minutes in and I’ve already learned 3 things.
I am a fine mechanic/machinist who repairs optical instruments (microscopes and lensometers) and when I was an apprentice, the old German who taught me would make a grooving tool in the style of the cutting tool but would use a standard 1/4" or 3/8" square cobalt blank... it takes forever to grind it down to the width and depth you're after but it IS EXTREMELY RIGID! Awesome video, by-the-way... I'm a former Virginia boy (born and raised) from Bedford (site of the National D-Day memorial). Love it when you explored the cemetery on your land.
I've done it by cutting a chunk out of the side of the blank with an angle grinder cutoff wheel, saves some time vs turning all that metal into dust at least. Just got to watch the heat.
Your brilliance is revealed every time you invent a tool like the valve spring compressor.
I never can get enough of FarmCraft101.
John, my first job was a diesel mechanic and you did very well. I always used pieces of hose on rod bolts to keep from nicking the crank journals, when putting the pistons in. and we had a tool to lap the valves from the face side. it was a suction cup we put to a drill but we did it with short sessions and changed directions every time. What you did seemed to work though. One or two dabs lapping compound, per about thirty seconds and wipe it off and repeat. As soon as the grit sound goes away. We also reconditioned the seats and faces before we lapped them in, which would have helped yours from the condition they were in. I realize you don't have the resources for all that equipment and would not be cost effective in your situation. Other than that, you did as good or better than I would have, so all in all, Great job!
It's always great to see you extending the life of old machines. Reducing the amount of waste, and teaching the audience at the same time.
@@auser591 Yes, engine blocks are known to be bio-degradable. Did you even use your brain before commenting? You're so addicted to importing cheap parts from China, you fooled yourself into believing everything is "cheaper" and "cleaner" to manufacture new.
The fact is, you don't know it's going to be more wasteful until you try to repair it. Go and replace your iPhone every 2 years, pat yourself on the back. Eat the bugs too.
Teaching the audience is a huge benefit that offsets any “waste” of time. It goes way beyond entertainment!
@@auser591feel free to switch channels! I for one am SO happy John finds these projects and shares them with us!!
@@auser591 No you've made a category error.
Hey John. You’ve got a great attitude, and your ability to laugh at yourself is refreshing. Keep doing your thing. 😊
The compressed air into the can impressed me more than it should! The engine sounds much happier and the smoke is not only less, it looks a slightly different colour. Hope your back gets better.
"Everybody happy now?" Oh you sweet summer child! :D
The homemade spring tool was pure genius!
I enjoy your "bench hook" spring compressor. Nice simple fix to make something less fiddly.
That cotter pin in the bell housing we call the giggle pins in the UK the idea is they shake about and allow oil to be able to leak out and the giggle pin keeps the weep hole open John
We used that same trick in electrical boxes for factory machinery. Remember that a NEMA 12 rating means that the oil that runs in can't run out again. The cotter pin prevents oily dust from clogging the vent hole as Dennis said.
Dennis I’m a commercial electrician and never heard of that. It’s pretty neat thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I am 78 now and allways been happy to pass on what I learned in my working life.@@DMSparky
This makes sense.
Is giggle pronounced with a soft g like jiggle?
John nobody tackles a project with such tenacity as You do and because of this attribution this channel has become My favorite. You’re an inspiration.
"A big part of me wants to know if this works"; so do we John, so do we. It's what makes your channel so great.
Glad to see Puff the Majic Dragon is not an expensive boat anchor.
I prefer the airborne version of Puff
I studied to be a machinist 50 years ago, long before cutting inserts were a thing.
We spent one semester of first year focusing on cutting tools. As our skills improved we became very skilled at grinding cutting tools.
For a small shop, being able to fabricate a cutting tool for any work is a big advantage.
Glad to see that your self reliance kicked in, and you got the problem solved.
First off I really enjoyed your video. That said there are a couple of things I would have done differently.Rear main seal lip should be greased before install,when honing cylinders,scraping block surface, plug the bottom of cylinders with clean rags & cover the crank to keep any grit/gasket material/rust from getting down there & into the oiling holes in the crank,that fine grit is impossible to get out with washing with crank installed,end gap file the rings to fit your cylinders & orient the ring gaps on pistons opposite each other ring & last put rubber hose on rod studs to prevent nicking the rod journal’s when installing. Great job on your spring compressor,I don’t think I would have thought of that! Seeing that much smoke might mean broken rings if there was not enough end gap on them? Maybe try a compression test to see if all cylinders have about the same compression?
Nevertheless I admire the work you do, the way you have dealt with spring compressor tool is next level - as simple as possible yet effecitve - KUDOS to you!
Your valve spring compression tool; simply brilliant.
John, at 30:05 you made a pin to fit in the alignment bushing so you could really grab a hold of the bushing without crushing it when pulling it out. I don't know if where those bushing are are in a blind hole or not.
If they are, a "trick" an old timer showed me years ago was to fill the bushing with grease before putting the the pin you made in it and then taping the pin with a hammer. This will hydraulic the bushing out of the blind hole from the bottom side and not damage the bushing in the slightest. Try it next time you find yourself in a similar situation. Works great 👍
Awesome video by the way 👏 😀 👍
Bread also works.
good idea, but those are usually trough holes for either oil or coolant, they are not blind
@@TheMadJoker87 Still can be done if it's threaded. A set-screw of the proper size will block the through part of the hole and can be easily removed afterwards 😀
I've never donated to a channel before, but I've been very much enjoying your videos. So THANK YOU! As a fellow RUclipsr I understand what goes into these videos.
Big thanks!
I used to watch This old House to learn. Now I watch You to learn Newer things since I am a full fledged renovator. You have earned My time with EXCELLENT CONTENT. Today for my Birthday present, I will purchase a shirt. Now You also have some money to continue to beat the old information model. Keep it up John
This channel does me so much good. Especially now when my medical issues are issuing again and I can't get much done myself and feel like a failure it's good to see you get shit done.
Seriously, this is so much better than all those car channels pulling junkers from barns... they get them running and then you never hear of them again. That feels like enabling to me. "If they don't finish things, then I don't have to either."
So thanks for doing what you're doing.
(Looks at runtime)
Yaaaaasssssssss!!!!!
55:25 that pop as they slide into place is so satisfying.
This is the definition of farm craft! Some Genius hacks!
Thank you!
I started watching a few years ago for the tree work. But man, I've stayed for the education in engines. Really liking this series.
That was a great vid. Thanks for getting it running. I don't have lots of experience with rebuilds but, that top cylinder ridge is removed with a ridge reamer. And it's a a good safety idea to put rubber hoses on the connecting rod studs (so you don't have accidental crank damage during install). I learned a lot.
I realize this may be a bit of a money pit for you, but I can not tell you how much I appreciate these videos. I've got an old model IDI engine I'm trying to make reliable, and having basically no practical knowledge on diesel engines, this is a god send.
WOW , shortest 1:38:09 ever , much respect SIR
I think you made an editing mistake - you used the word seal several times without a picture of a seal 🦭 😂
Ha ha! Oink! Good one. 🙃
Ooops!
😂qq1 2
You know it's gonna be a good Friday when FarmCraft posts a new video!
Farmcraft101 and no nonsense know how are the best channel to watch
I'm happy to see you fixing the 1010. If many others would fixed their machines , things would be way better in life.
In the long run it will be worth it. I realize replacing all 4 pistons would be more costly but that would be the right thing to do.
Because the pistons are old and have less rings than the new pistons.
You may not like what I say but I feel the need to say ...I hope you get all the honing metal that fell onto and in between the crankshaft bearings & caps. At time 57:33 you did just that.
John, always put rubber hoses over rod bolts when installing pistons. Saves from nicking rod journals. Thanks for another great vid!
I love the passion for the work that provides so much experience and education. The value of the experience is so under rated in these days of throwing parts and money at a problem. Obviously this in not a quarry operation, simply a guy enjoying fixing stuff and being generous enough to show us the whole picture.
Shoutout to the daughters for the ratcheting wrenches. They make those 1/8th turn bolts a little more tolerable. Couldn't tell if they are reversible or not, but be careful not to back them up against another object if they are flip wrenches.
Thank you John for showing me how to take an engine apart and completely rebuild it. I just wish my father had shown me little bit more before he passed away.
Yeah... because there are not thousands of books on the subject... Millions of magazine articles on it...
@@Katchi_ you can have a book show you but a video shows you more detail than any book. I may be better at making weapons than rebuilding an engine, that is what l learnt in my apprenticeship avionics and munitions not engine maintenance of a diesel vehicle, you have your opinion l have mine. His video helped, all you have produced is negativity.
Hi John that was another good video,like how you made that spring tool hack.my back is like yours,once it starts kincking,I got to stop and touch my toes Immediately!If that doesn't work I lean over my couch from the back side,feet on the ground and flex forward with my hands on the pillows,hips against the top of the couch and hang there till my back pops back in place. It works every time,I hope that helps you
Great course in "use what ya got, run what ya brung" You are one smart fellow.
You John are a smart cookie, making up a valve spring compressor like that.
Thanks for another Great video !
Great video. 👍
The hole in the bottom of the clutch housing has two jobs. It's to drain any condensation that may form in the area and also to act as a tattle-tail for oil leaks within the housing. The cotter pin is there to help keep the hole clean. It is meant to move about or spin as the machine is running.
Holy crap!! Wish the video was much longer!! Love the content. I noticed one miss step. You oiled the mating surface of the connecting rod bearings on the back side. That will add unnecessary clearances that could cause early failures on the connecting rod bearings.
I was on the edge of my seat as you were working with the valve keepers. Those things like to pop out and fly into low earth orbit. Or at least into the most un-reachable corner of your garage.
Unreachable or unfindable. If you have a bunch of scrap it's guaranteed that's where it will land and it will hang onto a piece when you remove it while looking for it. Not my experience with those keepers - but with other tiny spring projected parts.
@65BAJA - so THAT’s what’s clogging up LEO… and THAT’s where all my missing parts are!! 😝
Before I watch - I sense more pain for FC101 and that's why I watch this channel. FC101 pain is my enjoyment (in a fun way)...LOL!
Found your channel with the 'wack a mole' episode. Your patience and perseverance was inspiring. Subscribed for more real world wrenching.
44:14 - LOL! My wife has had very similar questions...and my response is identical to yours!
As a man with pretty severe low back issues, I highly recommend an inversion table. It has done more to keep me moving than all the doctors. And it doesn't involve pain meds or chiropractor bills.
I second this. Great for low back
Interesting. I had a laminectomy,L5S1,and was loaned an inversion table. The extra pain was agonizing when I tried it. Tried a second time oh a couple months later,just as bad.
So I guess sometimes it works,and sometimes it doesn't.
Thanks for the great video. FarmCraft101, Pacific Northwest Hillbilly, IC welds and others are a great educational tool for us all. What you guys tackle is amazing. Gives me faith when my stuff shoots craps. Keep them coming. Be safe out there we need you.
The DIY spring compressor tool was genius!
On a big oil pan, you sometimes get long pieces of 1/8" bar to fit withe pan bolts. This spreads the load area around the pan to get better gasket sealing. It also prevents the bolts from deforming the holes around the pan like you. Just a bit of useless information. Appreciate all the hard work you do on all your videos, makes great content.
44:15 I can hear your septic system screaming all the way down in northeast Tennessee!
Great video! Thanks for continuing the resuscitation.
That will happen.
Nice to see a fellow Tennessean. Bristol transplant to Chattanooga.
@@iammattjones Bristol, where country music was invented, and NASCAR perfected.
That sink drains out to the road ditch 😂
@@kevinblevins2612 You are pretty close actually! It doesn't go to my septic. ;-)
I'm duly impressed by the simplicity and effectiveness of your homemade valve spring tool! Well done!
could have watched a 3hrs video from you, always really enjoyable. make sure to rest!! we need you for years to come ;)
Good looking herd and well taken care of, like all you do. Thanks for another great episode. The 1010 will run just fine after everything is seated in. Hope Jennifer was easy on ya with cleanup of utility sink. Rest that back. Still Lots of stuff to do.
Spring compressor pure genius and so so simple, well thought out.
Man I'll say that you are genius 😅 I learned so much from you 🎉 thank you
Always sucks when You lose track of a video series you are emotionally invested in, but Luckily I was able to find your videos again manually, even if RUclips didn't want to remind me to a subscription...
I don't even know why I still have a TV. Thank you John!
I like the way you operate. Grave stone surface grinder!
Imagine the looks on the faces of Keith Rucker and his friends when they see that!
Jon, this was a joy especially the improvised valve spring compressor. I'm not sure what it is about farmers, they just seem to get it fixed one way or another. Always a pleasure.
You are a very brave man…washing that head in the house!
Yes!!! His wife was pretty cool about it.
I get emotional reading the comments. It's like the guy carries a army of 16 hundreds soldiers ready to go to battle on his side. And I will be there too. Amazing videos!
42:00 great idea for the springs. WICKED SMAHT!
I know a fellow New Englander when I see one!
Hello Jon. It's rewarding to see old equipment be restored and brought back from the dead. Very interesting video. Thank you for all of your blood,sweat, and tears. And also your lower back!
Keep these two pistons to practice on when you get a TIG machine. It will be a great learning experience and practical teaching exercise.
I been looking forward to this Video whoot whoot it's here. Hope you and the family been doing well Jon.. its has snowed in the entire state of az over here weather is crazy hope your staying warm over there.. 0:01 @FarmCraft101
John is so cool that you are sharing! That Tractors is an amazing test of your skills, you're a very amazing teacher had thought it was going to scrap yard 😅.
I like watching 👀 your show!!!😊
Nice to get some good weekend content!
Pete from Just A Few Acres Farm would love this video! You've got old equipment repair finished off with listening to cows grazing.
Great, great job on the video. Be sure and post all the repairs you left out, I watch all your videos, the best channel without a doubt. Thanks
Can't wait to see your paint go on 😊!
John,
You have WAY more faith in Harbor Freight than I do.
If you haven't yet, go watch that transmission jack video. It was nerve racking. And then, go and watch how he rebuilt that god-awful death trap into a reliable working beauty.
The Pittsburger brand is GOOD !!!!
Sometimes we speak ill of things we are not capable of producing ourselves. I know who harbor freight is, most of us will never be even remembered or known for a single tool..
@@alaskacanoe6837 I know who Hardor Freight is also. They are China, a nation that hates us. Now be quiet adults are talking.
Almost all their stuff USED TO BE junk. Some of it still is. But, their quality has been steadily improving over the years to the point where some of their stuff absolutely can't be beaten for functionality and value. I just bought a set of 90T ratchet wrenches that are surprisingly good. You cannot beat their US General tool boxes for value. Most of the other manufacturers continually have been losing quality without a associated price drop, so the gap continues to narrow. Some of the made-in-USA Craftsman stuff USED TO BE pretty good, but now it is complete garbage. Even some of the Snap-On stuff is way too overpriced for what it is. Bottom line, like he said, the stand was in stock and it seemed to do everything he needed it to do for a reasonable price. I remember when my parents bought a 1972 Toyota Corona that was just north of $2K new. People considered that Japanese stuff to be mostly junk. But it ran forever and over time, the Toyotas became the hallmark for quality and the number one brand by continually improving the product. Harbor Freight and the Chinese are executing this same business model, while made-in-USA is disappearing off the face of the Earth.
Runtime of a feature length movie.
Way more engaging and captivating than anything from the MCU.
On tractor engine rebuilds, we just run the block heater overnight, then just re torque the bolts in the morning. It saves all that disassembly of everything, and less likely of a leaky valve cover. The circulating coolant heaters warms the engine to normal running temperature. We have not, so far, ran into any issues.
That spring compressor was impressive!👍
Great work John! The only missed step I don't remember seeing you do was checking the end gap on the piston rings.
I paused the video just to see if the ring gap was brought up. I believe you're the first. Hopefully John knows something we don't.
Outstanding video and super inventive spring compressor - hats off!
Plus putting lube on the backside of the big end bearings but ah well
Those rings are fitted for nominal size, intended to be "drop-in" right out of the box. They have plenty of gap, but I wish I had thought to address that in the video. Cheers.
@@FarmCraft101 Awesome! You can't cover every little detail of a build like this in a video. But you sure do an excellent job explaining and showing the step by step process of completing such a complex job - congratulations and many thanks for sharing your hard work!
@FarmCraft101 It's always good to check. Every set (allbeit, maybe 6-7) I've done needed some shortening. Fingers crossed there won't be a catastrophe when the engine gets up to temp.
Maybe I just use cheap rings, lol.
I still say that you're a genius. I so enjoy your videos, thank you for taking the time to make them,can't wait till the next one.
Take care of your back sir!! I got injured on the job with my knee and I haven’t been the same since, learn from others that way.
I’m glad to see things working better. It’s that dance of one step forward and then two steps backwards. With your positive can do attitude (and understanding/supportive wife), there isn’t anything that you can’t do 💪🏻
Yep when I saw the side to side sanding, I thought must be nice to have such a sturdy back...
Ratcheting box ends are a real time saver sometimes
4:40 love it adjustable end hammer!
Classic tool used back in the early days.
EXCELLENT video and you can be very proud of the accomplishment! As for myself , I love watching you rebuild engines and the like. Thank you for such entertaining content!! 👍❤️👍
Nice job, when you first showed this machine I figured it was destined to the scrapyard. Thanks for going the extra mile and doing what you’ve done. Enjoyed it very much.
Hello john great ! One thing i wanted to let you know that in my 45 years of b uilding engines you never put any oil behind the main bearings or rod bearings they must always be dry.
Yep, I saw that too and cringed a bit. Dry fitting helps them to lock properly. He's a trier though. Best regards.
I was going to say the same thing. Also shouldn't have oil on the machined mating surfaces of the rod.
Yep, several people have commented the same, teaching me something. For what it's worth, when I disassembled them they were oily behind the bearings, and even had a cross hatch machined into the rod and cap, I assumed for oil carrying. I will probably do them dry from now on, but I find it hard to believe that no oil works it way behind them while banging around in an oily crankcase. I think a spun bearing would come from inadequate oiling of the journal, not because there's a thin film of oil behind the bearing. But either way, thanks for the info!