Building a 4-Cell TP4056 Charger for 18650 Batteries with Reverse Protection
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- Опубликовано: 8 авг 2024
- Ordered me some of the PCBs for the 4-cell battery chargers. They actually weren't difficult to make and work quite well. I've noticed one oddity though, such as multiple cells seem to finish at the exact same time even though they're separate TP4056 boards.
WARNING: Lithium batteries are dangerous and can result in fire! This video is NOT intended to be instructional or a "how-to" lesson. I am not a professional. Do not attempt anything you see here without first contacting a certified and/or licensed professional.
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A huge "Thank You!" for including a link to all the parts you used in this video. I've watched too many videos where they don't, and it's frustrating.
Thead the reverse polarity protection diode and solder it before inserting leads through the baseboard, helped me a bunch on the second one i built. Great video..because of your video I chose to build 6 of these units.
Thanks a lot! Your video is well organized and very easy to follow.
Thank you :) And thanks for watching!
Great project. From the sound of your flush cutters though, they are actually fairly blunt, diagonal cutters. Instead of a loud "SNAP" you should hear a quiet "thwip" when they cut. Aside from being more satisfying to use, that loud SNAP creates a shockwave that travels up the leads that will sometimes damage a delicate component. I'm really fond of the Xcelite S475NJS, I bought three pair a couple of years ago for 15 bucks apiece. Those are scarce and pricey now but I'm sure there are cheaper ones available.
Excellent walk thru, when I built mine I didn’t think of reusing the legs of the diodes to fix the tp4056. I did 3d print some spacers to rise the charger when I screw it to a wood board.
Thanks! Have you found the spacers to help with heat at all? I've seen people do some interesting things to cool the TP4056, but mine don't seem to get that hot for some reason?
I did the spacers just to ease cable management. I really haven’t have problems with heat.
Thank you, very much for the demonstration. Being an enthusiast myself, I was looking at various 18650 / TP4056 combinations that was on YT. But none were appealing to me until I saw your demo.
The explanations were easy to follow, well spoken and very appealing. I am a little sketchy though; at the DL of PCB file and placing order with JCB factory. I will sort out the issue and incase I fail to achieve my goal, then I’d get in touch with you, hoping you’d help me sort out ‘how to’.
That said, once again thanking you for the demo.
Always a neat build. Nice Job Bud!
Thanks man!
@@LithiumSolar pp
Pretty nice board, fuses are a nice touch
Thanks! They're working out great so far for pre-charging cells before putting in the capacity testers :D
Nice, I wonder if there are quality holders available, I might get an idea to design a charging/testing system with an internal resistance measurement functionality
Awesome! I just purchased the components... I've mistakenly reversed polarity when quickly swapping batteries and burnt out half a dozen TP4056 modules.
Yeah I've heard of a lot of people doing that and wanted to make sure I didn't make the same mistake lol. The diodes are only $0.08 USD each and makes sense to put them in since you're already soldering anyway and that way you won't have to replace later in the event of a mistake :)
@@LithiumSolar 8c is half the cost of the board basically
@@LithiumSolar did them diodeo connect from the negative yo the positive .thanks
Really good video buddy - I like !
Thanks man!
Those diodes go parallel with the battery, how is that connection
I found having a ribbon that I lay under the cells works well. Than I can pull all 4 out easy and quick
That's cool I was wondering when someone would put out a pcb for them I already have 4 of the 4 cell holders made up with just the holders positive soldered directly to the tp4056 and.wires for everything else on a sheet of plastic but those are nice the only thing would be an option for different input connectors like just a 5.5mm x 2.1mm or if you stack a bunch like an xt60 but I guess you can't expect other people to do everything for you
Put silk ribbon under each battery. Use small screw and washer and make a new hole in the holder/board (not in a trace path) and you can lift the ribbon to pull your batteries out.
Hi, that's a nice little charger. I build a 100Ah power wall using those battery holders and the best way to get them out is to wrap a little piece of tape around the middle of the cell with both ends of the tape sticking out and stuck together, making a finger puller.
Thanks
Thanks for the tip! I used to use a piece of twine like this but ended up with pieces of string everywhere after a few uses lol.
I put a ribbon under the cells, attach the ribbon to one side on the board, then pull the ribbon on the other side to get the cells out
I have those battery holders for HW-586 boards, i can pull 16 cells out with 1 ribbon
The new version of the changing board (2016/2017) has protection built in.
The new version of the TP4056? Does it have a different part number I could look up?
Instead of using a screwdriver to get the batteries out, you can put a string across the cell holder before adding the batteries. Then you just pull the string to get them out.
I was doing that before with the imax thing I built that had two of the 4-cell holders glued together. The problem was the string would sometimes get caught on the glue/tape pieces left over and pull out nearby cells when I pushed another in. Maybe I'm doing it wrong or just need to clean the cells better, I don't know lol.
Is there a place where I can buy kits for this sort of thing? My biggest issue is not knowing what all parts are needed for things, and having kits would be an amazing help.
The holes in the battery case is for a thin rope to go behind the batteries. You pull on the rope and all the cells the pop out very easly.
Glue a ribbon to the underside of the cell holder and lay the loose ends over the holder and place the cells over the ribbon. When the ribbon is pulled, the cells pop out like you may see as used in small battery powered items.
Yeah I've had a lot of people suggest that. And while it works, it's not practical when you have 100 cells in at a time. That's a lot of strings or ribbons, it gets everywhere, etc.
hi. after disconnecting my laptop charger my batter dies in 5-7 minutes. so i remowed my laptops batteries when i checked them it varies 3,82 - 3,83 3,84 - 4,07 so i charged with tp4056 so i have some question
1- how long should i charge them
2 how can i understand they are charged fully
3 after a 10 15 minutes charging some of my batteries decreased 4,07 to 4,02 even they are free (not charged or used)
is that normal?
4 what can i do apart from those techniques ( by the way i am not experienced of electricity i just watch videos :)
thanks from now on
I would like to connect a device to the battery pack that requires 9v. I know that I will need to connect batteries in series to get voltage. Is there anyway I can do this without back feeding? Thanks for the help.
i know its a bit late to the game, but if you glue a ribbon on the side of the 4 cell holder, and lay it down under the batteries before you charge them, you could pop the batteries out by pulling on the ribbon
OMgosh.
I just posted nearly the same thought. LoL
Thank you for the video, all the other ones just showed tp4056 and had my skeptical on it being "safe" your video shows reverse current protection, and addings fuses, and im new with electronics and that seems better, one question I have though, I don't have 1n5402, but I do have 1n5408, the amp rating is the same and the only different is the 5402 being 200v while 5408 is 1000v, would that make a difference or is it overkill? Its what I have atm, and won't mind using it if I can.
Thanks for this great build, even if your are not the creator of the PCB, but explanation and purpose of each component is great and also all the various tips present through all the build. I saw those PCB before in another video, but your build is pretty neat/
I made recently an 4x 18650 charger with 4 TP4056, but I dont understand why, when for example 1 battery is charged (blue) and another get charged, again thr 2 supposed be charged get back to charging state (Red Led). and it happen with all 4 TP4056 modules. When I charge an 18650 alone it works fine, but once I connect 2 or more TP4056 in parallel this issue starts. So batteries are not getting fully charged. Very confusing.....
PS: about the battery holder, I advice you to bend a bit batteries holders using a pliers, this way it will be easier to be inserted and removed. Of course, dont bend the connector to much, you dont want the batteries to be loosy...
.7VDC drop thru the diodes...the newer TP4056 with protection circuit doesn't have the drop
@Lithium Solar Its work with new version tp4056 when you have B+/- and +/- out ?
Thanks dude good job
Cam this be used in solar charhing? Seems to be highly safe and will give good life for all cells i guess. Might occupy some extra space.
No, this is not intended to be a solar charger.
My tp 4056charging modules red led never sunt off after I charged 3hours, 🙏plz tal me why it's countnusely charge and never stop with 2000mah lithium battery??
According to the upload date on the video, i'm a litte late to the "party" but i may have a idea how to "upgrade" the holders to allow somewhat easyer removal of the 18650's: In some battery holders for various things there is a small piece of cord / cloth that goes under the battery when you insert it. Once you pull on that little piece of cloth it lifts the battery a little and helps with the extraction. Maybe there is a way to "modify" the battery holder to add such a feature as well? Other then that: nice videos so far =D
ribbons there could be difficult if you just want to get one out
maybe you could cut hole into pcb and holder
another option is to make holder on your own, people have done this
just proper pieces of metal, on wooden or plastic sheet
what i've not see but what could work, if you board has standoffs, is to just solder diode and axial fuse in series and put that below your board
Is it just me or do the tp4056 module holes not quite line up? The modules in description are 25mm*19mm but the hole spacing appears a tad smaller than that. @lithiumsolar did your modules have any figment issues during assembly? The camera angle is somewhat hard to tell how alignment was
The alignment was perfect with the initial batch of TP4056 that I used. However, the second batch I bought had much smaller holes and couldn't get the diode legs to fit. I had to use thin wire instead. Chinese quality I suppose :(
I think the daiod will descries the voltage
How could you turn this into a battery pack? What could be added to discharge the batteries to charge a phone? How could you limit the discharge cutoff?
You would have to use a different board.
I don't think this is a good way for a power pack.
Look for more videos...
This is a nice charger for individual batteries.
Easy to make.
Cheap too.
Make one, sell 9 to your friends.
What about using the tp4056 that has the protector chip on them...the chip on board has protection for reverse polarity and back current flow, no need for the diodes and the fuses
Can you redesign with those boards with the new design? Say a V2 build?
Can we connect the 4 tp4056 outputs in series and use it for a 12v dc motor ?
No, TP40456 cannot be put in series
You need to get a temperature control soldering station mate. I need to do some learns in NASA stand soldering techniques on my channel for people. Don't trust the accuracy of the meter, I use to calibrate meters for the military. The china ones would have a low accuracy. Get a Fluke. Be close enough for a board. 4A per board I would say. Have a nice day good video.
I do have a temperature-controlled iron but it's more for soldering tiny components vs the thick legs on these diodes. I also have Fluke meter, which I used in the video. The clamp meter you saw is only used for quick-checking amps. I don't use it for much else for the exact reason you mentioned, accuracy :)
Does this do capacity testing?
No, this is a charger only.
can you do that with 4 cells in series? that would be neat
You can but you need to use an isolated power supply on each TP4056 (like a wall transformer). If you don't, you would be shorting out the cells [very bad] since they all share a common negative.
@@LithiumSolar ok some very cheap 5v isolated converters needed....
I am assuming that because the new tp-4056 boards have protection built-in, one could just solder a copper wire in place of the fuse holders and fuses and call it a day. Or do I assume incorrectly?
I'm not familiar with the protection types, but isn't that for reverse-current (cell is in backwards) not over-current? If that's the case, you can leave the diode out but it would still be a good idea to have the fuses.
@@LithiumSolar Makes sense - Thx
I'm sure you can use a surface reset fuse?
I imagine that would work just as fine. I'm not familiar enough with PCB design to be able to make those changes myself though. I guess I could fit them in the existing holes, but...
@@LithiumSolar I think you could lay them flat over the holes to be honest.
Update Jan 2022. Keep your eye on what TP4056 board he uses in video. Newer version of TP4056 will not work as it has different contacts for B+ and B- and they are slightly longer. Make sure your TP4056 looks exactly as in this video.
There are 3 versions of TP4056.
No need for balanced board. right? because no balancing needed.
There is enhanced, and one other.
Not sure which he used...
Maybe protection, not enhanced, not balanced?
Nope, its the board with output pads as well as battery pads that will be too long. 2 pads in the back, good. 4 pads, too long. The DW01 makes it too long. Those are the two main versions but I'm sure someone is slapping TP4056 on a board with even more features
Please xplain why did you use diode?
The diode prevents damaging the TP4056 if you accidentally put a cell in backwards. If the cell is inserted backwards, it will short through the diode thus blowing the fuse and protecting your TP4056 :)
What is the size of the board?
Where do you buy solder?
Why do use old tp4056 not the ones with protection?
The board was designed to fit TP4056. I didn't even know TP4050 existed :)
😀 ruclips.net/video/wpnEOVD7-mo/видео.html
@@LithiumSolar - There isn't a TP4050. The modules that should be used are the MODULES that have protection circuits.
John Coops
@@sreekumarUSA - Ermmm, and WHAT was a typographical error? 5 left arrows?
Hello again. I failed. With due respect, I could not understand, as to how I should place the order for the PCBs. If you happened to stock the PCBs then,
I’d want to place order for 5 PCBs. If you do not stock and sell the PCBs, then please let me know as to how, I should place the order directly to JCB factory. Danke schoen.
Hi. Sorry, but I don't sell things. You don't have to order them from JLCPCB if you're already familiar with JCB Factory. I just recommended JLCPCB because that's what I used and seemed to work well.
wouldn't a diode result in wasted energy through heat?
Maybe? I'm not as knowledgeable when it comes to circuitry design like that.
Curious what the usb connection is for on the TPs?
You can use the USB to charge the battery instead of soldering the +5V wires like I did.
@@LithiumSolar pretty cool option I guess however good grief that'd be A MESS of wires. I learn a lot from your videos. Thanks for sharing with us all
I just tried to download the Gerber files without success. Has anybody else had issues? Thanks.
I reached out to Philipp and let him know the link wasn't working. He fixed it. Can you please try again?
@@LithiumSolar Successfully downloaded. Thank you.
he should make the board support TP5100 chargers, that is what I just converted to after just using straight current regulated buck converters
I'm not sure TP5100 were around when this design was initially produced? Not sure...
LithiumSolar I’m just saying he should update the board to use TP5100 modules since they are new and better
@@SuperBrainAK - The TP5100 is not "better". The main advantage over TP4058 is the ability to charge LiFePO4 by changing one jumper.
What REALLY should be changed is to make the board suit the PROTECTED TP4056 modules, which are infinitely better than the ones shown here. I would suggest that protection is mandatory for ALL Lithium chargers, and this thing has zero. EDIT: THESE COMMENTS MADE IN ERROR, READ FURTHER ON.
@@johncoops6897 I disagree, also the TP5100 does not charge LFE cells only Li-ion 1S or 2S. I disagree because it is also over 90% efficient versus on average 74% for the TP4056 which is a linear topology versus a buck topology. The TP5100 taking in a higher voltage supply means less amperage over the main wires and from the main power supply. less current means smaller wires, inductors, and diodes. The TP5100 has built in protections and should never overcharge the cell, reverse battery polarity is also a thing that it can handle.
@@SuperBrainAK - SORRY, my mistake! I confused myself, and was talking about TP5000 (not TP5100 that you mentioned). I've used all 3 chips, and found that the higher cost of TP5000 / TP5100 modules wasn't usually justified in most of my applications. I couldn't care less about a few % higher efficiency.
However I only use the TP modules inside custom builds - I have far better equipment here for charging 18650's and other loose cells.
There's no point building DIY like this video when a proper multi-cell / multi-chemistry charger is under $20 (4-slot) or $10-15 (2-slot) like the Liitokala Lii-402/202
That forward voltage drop of diode will never let 18650s to reach 4.2V charge. Don't know what is the forward voltage drop of the diode you have used but even with a very low voltage drop of say 0.3V for example, TP4056 would would never see correct cell voltage and will not charge it to the expected voltage, in this case probably around 3.9V thinking they have reached 4.2V .
That's not how the diode is working in this particular application.
@@LithiumSolar If you check the blog from original designer Philipp it is mentioned in the comments section that indeed there is a small voltage drop across that diode. I wonder why do you think this is not the case here?
It's solder as in shoulder, or do americans have shodders, and are big rocks called bodders ?
😂😂
Hello, can you use 1N5408 instead of 1N5402
I'm not familiar enough with the parts to know what the difference is. The person who designed these PCBs listed 1N5402 as the diode part number.
You can. Any 1N540x will work here. The difference is the voltage rating, but since we're talking about 4V, any of them are fine. Actually a 1N400x or any similar power diode will work here too.
@@charliep6334 I used 1n5404 as 1n5402 were not available.
Newbie question here. I've read that diodes have polarities? So I need to match the polarities with the board? If im seeing the video correctly, the side with the grey band is the negative but i think it is connected to the positive in the board?
@@Reagulus Diodes have polarity, yes, but it's not positive and negative like a battery. Instead, think about a diode as a one-way valve. Electricity flows through the diode towards the Cathode. This is the side with the stripe. If you reverse polarity, the diode will block the flow.
if this pcb include volt meter, it will be the best
nicely, give 1 u pcb 18650 for me
never seen anybody insert a battery with the + in first instead of the - first like a normal human being
I always put the positive end in first. The reason is if you put the negative in first, the terminal on the holder puts pressure on and rubs against the heat shrink that wraps around the positive end. I'd rather that not wear and/or tear which could potentially cause a short.
LithiumSolar didn’t mean anything wrong about it ... those cell holders are shit for that reason but are better than a spring version that’s for sure and I completely understand what ur saying I know I had to rewrap a couple of cells for that same reason... it’s just weird that’s all
Hello, there’s always the ‘first time’ to understand, learn and apply things that one has not, read, seen, heard or done before. I am a proponent of Positive first and then the Negative , supporting the German Engineer’s explanation. The experience I have had was, torn insulation, subsequent shorting and burned contacts. The Chinese holder contacts are very rigid that requires a wee bit of muscle power to insert and remove batteries. I also use a flat end SD on Negative side to gently pry to detach the batteries. In a motor vehicle, positive terminal is connected first and then the Negative terminal. The theory is applied here, too.
Sree Kumar all I’m saying is that since they are not us made ( well nothing is any more) you have to insert differently .. and I agree with you when we all should just sponge what we see and learn from it but what if the holder was spring loaded at the negative side, that was my point , also I have tried/tested connecting the battery negative first multiple times and I have never seen anything wrong or nothing has ever happened ... hasn’t fried the ecm/pcm/bcm.. that’s on gm/JEEP /Honda vehicles nothing has ever happened but I still start with the positive because if I continue to do the negative side first that will make me look weird ... 🤷🏼♂️
not worth it you can buy 2 10 slot chargers for less ebay but looks like fun but cost dont make sense that board printing cost kills it
Stupid design from a clueless RUclipsr. Should be using the TP4056 with the "protection" circuit. That means a DW01 charge controller and small 6/8 pin Mosfet package. These additional components provide the Under-Voltage (Discharge) and Over-Voltage (Over-charge) protections that are critical for Lithium cells.
The stupid youtuber didn't realize there was a protected version. Also, this was not my design. I don't know the person who made it...
@@LithiumSolar - yes, however you are presenting yourself here as an "expert". You lack of knowledge about the subject means you shouldn't really recommend solutions like this. You placed your blind trust in some random PCB design that you found online, which looks attractive but has numerous design flaws because it was designed by someone else with similar inexperience. In this instance, it's very poor practice (and probably dangerous) to charge batteries without protection circuits to disconnect the cell. The TP4056 modules you've used are intended for charging cells with inbuilt protection board, for example mobile phone and camera batteries, and the protected modules are for unprotected cells like 18650 laptop pulls (where you are chopping out the original protection and balance circuit). You would have found the protected ones during your internet searches, but did not know enough to recognise wjat they were. BTW the protected ones cost about the same price.
@@johncoops6897 with that amount of knowledge I would of thought you would have your own RUclips channel. If that were the case maybe you would not be so critical of someone at least attempting a project. Its easy to be critical. Credit where credit is due - this is a great instructional video. Perhaps it was made before the newer boards were available..........
@@LithiumSolar I made the mistake of ordering the wrong tp4056 and of course the holes do not line up. I then order the correct version of the tp4056, without the protection circuit, and I guess each manufacturer's build is somewhat different. The second board was slightly larger and I had to use twisted copper to run through the in+ and in- connections, you need to thread the wire prior to soldering any part of circuit board to the baseboard.