Its a "long time coming" but you've done a great service to the hobby Richard. A good friend of my brother in Tucson lost two collector cars - a 67-GTO and a 66-Corvette due to LiPo battery charge failure. There's just not enough protection and quality assurance behind this great new technology. You do a real in-depth study here and I think if everyone "follows the rules" here and doesn't think its a big joke - we can look forward to a bright future. I have since then (the day after Christmas-last..) been keeping all my cell-packs inside a discarded gas range! IMO - everyone using LiPo and LiIon cells should spend the time watching all your videos to gain a working understanding and RESPECT for this energy storage medium! Thanks for posting!
uou are most welcome. Respect for these cells is a MUST. They are very powerful energy storage devices. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
Excellent video! You know your stuff. I am just learning about Li-ion, Li-Po, etc. This stuff is dangerous and you are helping me avoid making big mistakes. Just a suggestion: Your soldering needs work. Using flux, tinning your soldering iron, and using alcohol to clean the connection will help prevent bad connections. Lead/tin solder isn't a good a conductor. For example, the mound of solder contact is soft, can deform, and it oxidizes. So, if you lightly soldered the lead and bent it around (to make a raised contact) and then soldering the edge of the lead, again, that may help.
You are most welcome. I am very happy with the end result. I did not find any videos on RUclips that actually showed the whole process. Thank you very much for watching and the very kind comments. All the best.
Thank you for the comprehensive video. Pre-soldering the leads on the pcb works fine, but the solder refuses to stick to the battery terminals. I can't get the solder to stick to the battery. I tried different temperatures and tips. I don't want to keep the iron on there any longer than a couple of seconds because I don't want to transfer too much heat into the battery. I sanded and de-greased the battery terminals.
It's a bit of a trick I used a high amp iron (45W) the metal has to get hot enough to take the solder. You could cool the cell in the refrigerator prior to soldering to reduce the temperature gain. I didn't cool them and I didn't have an issue with them. They still work today. Another option is a spot welder (if you are making a lot of these cells) eBay: ebay.to/39Tn1Ne pretty reasonable price. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
You're most welcome and a big Howdy from Texas! I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
You're most welcome. I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Thank you sir I was going to make a project using 18650 battery but I see a video on RUclips about explosion of these batteries but after watching this video I recieved a lot of informatio about protection circuit
You should’ve used your multimeter to measure current in the short-circuit test, this way you can detect overcurrent faster and without risk of burning your fingers.
That can be the case. Hopefully the product is somehow designed to use the unprotected cells safely. Thank you so much for commenting and watching. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Using Olight flashlight with magnetic charging base. You can't have that plastic insulator on there. It blocks the negative ring of the base cap from touching the battery negative casing. So the magnetic charger will not work. I been down this road. So just buy CR123A\18650 batteries that are protected.
Very nice informative video Richard. I would like to know if it is possible to mount a pack of 5 batteries in series with this protection on each, without having to use a bms or balance lead.
well the first try i felt the wires heating up and slightly burnt my finger.... the second try it heated again and i through the battery on the floor.... haa ha.... the third try i made it.... well practice makes perfect.... the srink wrap went well first time.... got the protection circuits from AliExpress....
I am glad you got it done. I think by far the most satisfying part of the job for me was the shrink wrap. It looked great. Thank you very much for watching and the great feed back. All the best.
@@richardlloydusa sorry for what is probably obvious to others, but I short circuited a very large battery (52v 23amh) that I believe has circuit protection on it. I am taking it to get repaired but I was just wondering, if the protection has worked correctly, will/should the battery maintain the same power and life as before the accident?
I see a lot of sellers claiming that these are also interchangeable with the 14500 ones, but isn't the diameter of the pcb larger than the 14500? Any info would be really appreciated :-)
Hey, can you use these protection circuits with lithium-polymer batteries and do these also offer cell balance charge. In the case of the polymer batteries, they're just a one cell kind of battery, not multiple cells stacked together. Thanks for your help and great video.
Hi Richard, ever think of using fusible leads that's what I do, just an Fyi. But nice video.I had to buy my 5 amp fusible leads from the UK, they were pre-tinned for easy soldering.
I generally use super glue (don't use too much and don't get it on your fingers) but any decent glue will do (except hot glue). Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
You are most welcome. The components and technology has not changed that much in the last three years (capacity of the cells has increased). But the components and procedures are still the same. I would still use what I suggest in the video. BTW I am still using the protected cells I built in the video. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Protected cells for devices without built in protection, unprotected cells for devices with protection. If you don't know you can't go wrong with a protected cell. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Okay so I am buying 8 Samsung 18650 35E batteries and they are rated up to 8A draw. My Bluetooth speaker draws around 6 at high volumes and when the bass drops a little over 10A. If I have 8 of the batteries in a battery pack in series would it be safe from drawing too much? I'm also going to use a DROCK 9043 Step down buck converter to make the battery pack around 24v and the max amps are 12Amps. Thank you so much and I look forward to your response. The project is the worlds best small portable speaker, hopefully :).
Hi, can you recommend a setup how to replace my led acid motocycle battery to lithium ion. Original battery is 12v and 14ah. What BMS should i use for 9 x 18650 batteries of 3000mah? Thnx
Very helpful video! Just wondering if you have another one that adds the step of adding + and - wires for use in a project where the battery is wired to a charge port and circuit board like Arduino or something.
I do not have such a video. Are you referring to this kind of charge circuit from Ebay: goo.gl/jaTvmF ? If so I may consider doing such a project video. Thanks. All the best.
What stops this protection circuit from constantly draining the battery? It's a closed circuit connected to both + and - Is this just the price you pay for having a protected cell? How much power does this circuit use when the battery is just sitting there? A few microwatts?
The protection circuit will draw a very small charge. You can see the specifications on the Ebay listing here: goo.gl/Lxwq2X I believe it's 8uA very low power consumption. BTW it will shut down it's self when the voltage dips below 2.50V so it will never fully discharge the cell or damage the cell. Thanks.
should be mentioned to make sure the top is WELL INSULATED as if the wrap is even slightly damaged the lead can touch, causing the opposite and boom! I am not sure why the positive and negative are so close at the top, but 90% of e cigs explode for this reason
Richard, does the protective circuit work with NMC 18650 batteries? Will a charger, like the Nicore I4 Intella charger charge NMC batteries? Can anyone else answer this question?
As long as the protection circuit cutoff parameters correspond to the cells specifications it should do the job.Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
Hello ! I want to use an exact green cell from a laptop for a bike flashlight. How do I avoid deep discharge while using it? I don't worry for over charging as I own a car battery charger and will charge 6 at a time just like in the laptop pack and it has a safe cutoff and a slow charge. But will the cell die, if I over discharge it ?Does this have an inside protection for that ?
I have several meters to measure the 18650's resistance and they do not agree on most batteries, sometimes they are as far apart that few points -that I can understand- is OK, but when it is several 10's that I don't understand. I've purchased a XTAR DRAGON that comes with probes also to measure the resistance. How do you determine if the battery is OK or 1/3 bad or 1/2... bad? I was thinking to make my own charging, discharging, testing and testing batteries like 18650 .... but with a unique serial number on each battery and the "charger/tester/xxx will know the "signature" of that battery and can predict how it will perform. Have you seen anything like it? Thank you again. Tony
I did it but battery is still discharging below 3.7v - it dropped to 3.2v before my flashlight stopped working. What could be the reason? Is circuit not working? Is flashlight responsible by bypassing circuit somehow with pulse voltage?
Hi I have an old tablet using a 1s lipo battery with a battery protection board (bpb) I guess lol I was wondering if I can remove that bpb from old lipo and then put the same bpb 5 x 18650 Li-Ion in parallel therefore increasing the battery life?
I would not recommend this. Use a BMS (battery management system) designed for your battery array. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Great video Richard .. Thank you. I just received a few boards from ebay India. Mine has two of 8205A - 8 pin mosfets along with DW01 in each board. I am not sure whether it is 5 or 6A. Could you please tell me what are 2 pads 'P+ and P-' on the board for.
Mine is the same it has two 8205A as well. The +B +P are common to each other. If you run a continuity check you will see that they are common. The -p and the negative terminal are common as well. So in theory you could connect the circuit to a battery and attach leads to the +P and the -P and charge the cell from there. The protection circuit actually is functioning on the negative lead attached to the battery by disconnecting power to the negative lead when ever an offending condition happens. Here is another protection circuit I used in a Securitying Light video goo.gl/WLmxLn the add shows a schematic of how to connect a cell to the same pads you find on your protection circuit. Here is the video on how I used it: ruclips.net/video/PjTX_WQcnZE/видео.html
It depends, if you want the BMS to balancing the cells as well as protect the cells then you need the BMS. If all the BMS does is protect the cells then there really is no difference between a protection BMS and the individual protection circuits on each cell. They both do the same job. Understand that battery packs that have a BMS are usually comprised of unprotected bare cells. I certainly do not recommend using both protection circuits (BMS and single cell protection circuits) at the same time because of compatibility issues. Pick one or the other. Thanks.
I really like your videos and have subscribed. I am using the same cell and want to add on-cell protection for some of the projects I'm doing with them. I'd like your opinion regarding a larger project I'm planning for 3S/5P pack. I have a 25A BMS board that should handle that in terms of over and under charge and balance, and I plan to use 6A resettable fuses on all of the + terminals. My primary concern is with safety, and I'd appreciate your opinion regarding use of unprotected cells in this application; i.e., do you think adding individual cell protection would be redundant overkill? I plan to carefully monitor the balance and check individual cell potential periodically. I will also use a 4 button charger similar to yours for periodic balance charge independent of the board. Any other advice would be appreciated. Thanks again for your great videos. I look forward to watching more of them.
I like the resetable fuses, that's a good idea. Individual cell protection is overkill. Your BMS should be good enough to handle the task. Individual cell protection would just add cost, time, a new point of failure, complexity, weight, and added power consumption for very little to no gain. You could use something like this at eBay: goo.gl/BZBDWL You could buy three or use a switch to toggle between cell packs. Make sure you use the proper gauge wire as well I believe 12 gauge or larger (please look up the specification) I also bought a bunch of XT60 connectors (rated 60 amps continuous) So I can quickly connect and disconnect components. Make sure you get a sturdy enough case for your project too. Thanks. All the best.
Why did you remove the protection circuit from Panasonic NCR18650B in the first place ? . That cell is one of the very few that do come with the protection pre installed.
The stock Panasonic NCR18650B comes with a vent protection mechanism that allows gasses to vent from the cell in the event of a catastrophic failure. This keeps it from exploding but it does not have any electronic protection circuit built in to stop the catastrophic failure from happening in the first place. They state *PCB Protected Board No on the Amazon listing here: amzn.to/2uIikVR
so would this apply to other larger li-ion batteries such as samsungs new 2170? No one makes a protected one yet and I would love to make one just to have 1000 or so extra mAh
I want to warn as many people as i an about these 18650 batteries. Yes you can make 3S,4S,6S,7S,etc....battery packs. I used to make awesome portable battery packs that would be great for camping , charging drone batteries etc... The problem is this. When you are charging phones iPads, drone batteries, be very careful not to go below.. Ex. 3S - 9v, 4S-12v, 6S-18v, 7S-21v If your voltage drop below these marks you better have a BMS attached for charging. If not you will lose half of your batteries, and the other half will overcharge immediately causing batteries to start leaking and then fire and then little missiles flying around in your room or where ever the battery pack is charging. they will cause a lot of damage and can easily burn your house down. Having a bms connected to your charging port will save your batteries. why: because it will bottom balance your pack and prevent to total collapse of batteries when charging Some people on RUclips are saying you don't need a BMS, and I started going that route but found out the hard way and have lost a 200SQ ft shop due to fire. Richard is by far the best teacher in this category and really explains in detail. I see this video and will start using this technique along with good BMS cards
Proper charge cycling is crucial to long life and safety. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
Nicely done video. I need help with something I'm curious about. I bought a OLight H2R Nova Flashlight and it uses a Custom 3000 mA battery. OLight is adamant about the battery being the only battery you can use in that flashlight. Is this because the protection circuit of the battery is so specific to match the flashlights control board or something else. I hope you can answer this question for me because they charge $20 for a single cell and with shipping that's a really expensive battery. Thanks in advance.
They say "customized" battery but they don't state how. So your guess is as good as mine. More than likely it has a protection circuit that cuts of the charge cycle to their specifications (guessing here). Most protection circuits are not designed to be used as a charge cut off circuit they are usually set to a higher and lower voltage level than the specification so as to let the user discharge to the limit and charge to the limit without triggering. The thought being that the protection circuit is only there to protect against the unlikely failure of the charger to stop the overcharge of the cell or the device over discharging the cell. But in this case I am only guessing the only real way to find out is to test the cell or have someone at Olight tell you the specs. Thanks.
@Richard Lloyd, I noticed a linear-type protection circuit board that seems to do the same thing, except it costs less money and would trail along the side of the cell (I'm assuming inside the shrink tubing). ten of these costs $2.75... since I'm holding the cells together with brackets that provide enough space for the slight 1-3 mm bulge, do you think I should just go with these? Here's a link : www.ebay.com/itm/10x-3A-Protection-Board-for-1S-3-7V-18650-Li-ion-lithium-Battery-W-Solder-Belt/282474147244?_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Df40666d85b31471b811e9c652cd8fa44%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D282243648769
Sure, if you have the space and they give you the proper protection limits. I noticed that the over current protection is a little on the low side at 1-3 amps. I would expect most 18650 cells to be able to deliver 1Amp discharge without issue so you should consider that if you are going to put a greater than 1Amp load on the cells. Here is the one I used one of internally on a flashlight at Ebay: goo.gl/y1QozU so I could use bare cells in flashlight with out issue. Here is the video for that: ruclips.net/video/PjTX_WQcnZE/видео.html Thanks. All the best.
hi.... interesting videos.... i live in europe and i can't order a protection circuit you've indicated on eBay or Amazon.... I've found them on aliexpress but I'm not sure are the right ones.... aliexpress says.,....1S 5A 4.2V lipo lithium Polymer BMS/PCM/PCB battery protection circuit board for 1 Packs 18650 Li-ion Battery Cell
You are most welcome. I may buy a few of those from Aliexpress to see how they compare. Thanks for asking and bringing this to my attention. I may start posting the Aliexpress links too. All the best.
I believe the protection circuits are to be used as safety devices. They are designed to allow the optimum range the cells range without interruption. The protection circuit should not be relied upon to charge or discharge the cell. BTW once the over discharge protection kicks in (open circuit) the cell usually recovers to over the 2.50V range on it's own. Thanks.
Ok so its like a second line of defence to prevent the battery from accidental death or going up in flames! Yeah I seen the batteries recovering within seconds of getting it to lower voltages. I still think 2.2 volts is low. I have done my protection on few of my batteries same way as you have done only difference is I have used Kapton tape. Thank you for the video, it was really interesting.
I have Kapton tape and may use it in a future project but I think the primary wrap was a good enough insulator and the Kapton tape was not required. Thanks for watching and the great feed back. All the best.
BTW I just did a full discharge on this cell (NCR18650B protected) 4.20V down 2.50V at 2.0 Amp and it gave me 3426 mAh capacity so I don't think it's being damaged by the little discharge testing I have done with this circuit. Thanks again.
The battery manufacturers will be happy. The protected cell manufacturers maybe not so much.... I am certainly happy with my results. BTW I was thinking when the cell is no longer useful you can always move the protection circuit to another cell and continue on. Thanks.
Its a "long time coming" but you've done a great service to the hobby Richard. A good friend of my brother in Tucson lost two collector cars - a 67-GTO and a 66-Corvette due to LiPo battery charge failure. There's just not enough protection and quality assurance behind this great new technology. You do a real in-depth study here and I think if everyone "follows the rules" here and doesn't think its a big joke - we can look forward to a bright future. I have since then (the day after Christmas-last..) been keeping all my cell-packs inside a discarded gas range! IMO - everyone using LiPo and LiIon cells should spend the time watching all your videos to gain a working understanding and RESPECT for this energy storage medium! Thanks for posting!
uou are most welcome. Respect for these cells is a MUST. They are very powerful energy storage devices. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
Excellent video! You know your stuff. I am just learning about Li-ion, Li-Po, etc. This stuff is dangerous and you are helping me avoid making big mistakes. Just a suggestion: Your soldering needs work. Using flux, tinning your soldering iron, and using alcohol to clean the connection will help prevent bad connections. Lead/tin solder isn't a good a conductor. For example, the mound of solder contact is soft, can deform, and it oxidizes. So, if you lightly soldered the lead and bent it around (to make a raised contact) and then soldering the edge of the lead, again, that may help.
Thank you for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
Now this is a video everyone should watch! Richard thank you.. Now I'm going to start mining batteries and adding protection...
You are most welcome. I am very happy with the end result. I did not find any videos on RUclips that actually showed the whole process. Thank you very much for watching and the very kind comments. All the best.
Thank you for the comprehensive video. Pre-soldering the leads on the pcb works fine, but the solder refuses to stick to the battery terminals. I can't get the solder to stick to the battery. I tried different temperatures and tips. I don't want to keep the iron on there any longer than a couple of seconds because I don't want to transfer too much heat into the battery. I sanded and de-greased the battery terminals.
It's a bit of a trick I used a high amp iron (45W) the metal has to get hot enough to take the solder. You could cool the cell in the refrigerator prior to soldering to reduce the temperature gain. I didn't cool them and I didn't have an issue with them. They still work today. Another option is a spot welder (if you are making a lot of these cells) eBay: ebay.to/39Tn1Ne pretty reasonable price. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Richard Lloyd hello
Can we use (P+) and (P-) of protector for both of these?
1: battery output
2: to charge this battery
Great explanation
Thank you
Ash from Scotland 🏴
You're most welcome and a big Howdy from Texas! I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Go thru all that headache and listen to you i just went and bought two new ones and they are being charged.
Phenomenal video. I learned a lot about 18650 protected cells!
You're most welcome. I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Thank you sir I was going to make a project using 18650 battery but I see a video on RUclips about explosion of these batteries but after watching this video I recieved a lot of informatio about protection circuit
Thank you. It was highly educational. I learned a lot from you, Sir. Cheers.
You are most welcome. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
Great job man ;) I have plenty of old 18650 cells from laptop battery packs I need to put too use... Now I know what to do with them.
Thanks.
You should’ve used your multimeter to measure current in the short-circuit test, this way you can detect overcurrent faster and without risk of burning your fingers.
Thanks.
Very Helpful
This guy has impressive skills at explaining things.. Part of it is in the accent i truly believe lol
You are most welcome. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. All the best.
You are most welcome. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. All the best.
Thanks for your excellent guidence
You are most welcome. Glad I could help. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
the problem is some appliances that use these batteries dont fit a little bigger protected ones..
That can be the case. Hopefully the product is somehow designed to use the unprotected cells safely. Thank you so much for commenting and watching. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Using Olight flashlight with magnetic charging base. You can't have that plastic insulator on there. It blocks the negative ring of the base cap from touching the battery negative casing. So the magnetic charger will not work. I been down this road. So just buy CR123A\18650 batteries that are protected.
Thank you for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
Very nice informative video Richard.
I would like to know if it is possible to mount a pack of 5 batteries in series with this protection on each, without having to use a bms or balance lead.
well the first try i felt the wires heating up and slightly burnt my finger.... the second try it heated again and i through the battery on the floor.... haa ha.... the third try i made it.... well practice makes perfect.... the srink wrap went well first time.... got the protection circuits from AliExpress....
I am glad you got it done. I think by far the most satisfying part of the job for me was the shrink wrap. It looked great. Thank you very much for watching and the great feed back. All the best.
a contact weld would be neater...than soldering
Agreed. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Thanks. Big help !!
You are most welcome. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it and your support greatly. All the best.👍😀
@@richardlloydusa sorry for what is probably obvious to others, but I short circuited a very large battery (52v 23amh) that I believe has circuit protection on it. I am taking it to get repaired but I was just wondering, if the protection has worked correctly, will/should the battery maintain the same power and life as before the accident?
Great job
Great idea
awesome video
you got great skills man
thanks
You are most welcome. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. All the best.
I see a lot of sellers claiming that these are also interchangeable with the 14500 ones, but isn't the diameter of the pcb larger than the 14500? Any info would be really appreciated :-)
Hey, can you use these protection circuits with lithium-polymer batteries and do these also offer cell balance charge.
In the case of the polymer batteries, they're just a one cell kind of battery, not multiple cells stacked together.
Thanks for your help and great video.
These protection circuits are for Lithium Ion cells. Lithium Polymer cells require different voltage thresholds for charging and discharging. Thanks.
Hi Richard, ever think of using fusible leads that's what I do, just an Fyi. But nice video.I had to buy my 5 amp fusible leads from the UK, they were pre-tinned for easy soldering.
That's a good alternative but would require replacement if blown and would only provide over amperage protection. Thanks.
Good video..thank you.
What type of glue did you use to glue the white ring over the positive button?
I generally use super glue (don't use too much and don't get it on your fingers) but any decent glue will do (except hot glue). Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
You need to use flux, otherwise you will get cold solder joints.
Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Thank you... What if you wanted to protect, charge and use 4 cells in series ?
Thanks for your videos! Nice job adding all the parts with Am+eB!!! But this video is 3 years old, what are you suggesting today?
You are most welcome. The components and technology has not changed that much in the last three years (capacity of the cells has increased). But the components and procedures are still the same. I would still use what I suggest in the video. BTW I am still using the protected cells I built in the video. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Very nice video....thumb up!👍
You are most welcome. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
It is very usefull to see a smart people on you tube.Thanks mr. Loyd 👍
I am not understand, why some battery no proctection, and some make protection in side? What is the purpose? Witch one is better?
Protected cells for devices without built in protection, unprotected cells for devices with protection. If you don't know you can't go wrong with a protected cell. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Okay so I am buying 8 Samsung 18650 35E batteries and they are rated up to 8A draw. My Bluetooth speaker draws around 6 at high volumes and when the bass drops a little over 10A. If I have 8 of the batteries in a battery pack in series would it be safe from drawing too much? I'm also going to use a DROCK 9043 Step down buck converter to make the battery pack around 24v and the max amps are 12Amps. Thank you so much and I look forward to your response. The project is the worlds best small portable speaker, hopefully :).
very great thank u
You are most welcome. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. All the best.
Hi, can you recommend a setup how to replace my led acid motocycle battery to lithium ion. Original battery is 12v and 14ah. What BMS should i use for 9 x 18650 batteries of 3000mah? Thnx
Very helpful video! Just wondering if you have another one that adds the step of adding + and - wires for use in a project where the battery is wired to a charge port and circuit board like Arduino or something.
I do not have such a video. Are you referring to this kind of charge circuit from Ebay: goo.gl/jaTvmF ? If so I may consider doing such a project video. Thanks. All the best.
What stops this protection circuit from constantly draining the battery? It's a closed circuit connected to both + and - Is this just the price you pay for having a protected cell? How much power does this circuit use when the battery is just sitting there? A few microwatts?
The protection circuit will draw a very small charge. You can see the specifications on the Ebay listing here: goo.gl/Lxwq2X I believe it's 8uA very low power consumption. BTW it will shut down it's self when the voltage dips below 2.50V so it will never fully discharge the cell or damage the cell. Thanks.
should be mentioned to make sure the top is WELL INSULATED as if the wrap is even slightly damaged the lead can touch, causing the opposite and boom! I am not sure why the positive and negative are so close at the top, but 90% of e cigs explode for this reason
Thanks.
After the repair did it still function properly
Richard, does the protective circuit work with NMC 18650 batteries? Will a charger, like the Nicore I4 Intella charger charge NMC batteries? Can anyone else answer this question?
As long as the protection circuit cutoff parameters correspond to the cells specifications it should do the job.Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
Hello ! I want to use an exact green cell from a laptop for a bike flashlight. How do I avoid deep discharge while using it? I don't worry for over charging as I own a car battery charger and will charge 6 at a time just like in the laptop pack and it has a safe cutoff and a slow charge. But will the cell die, if I over discharge it ?Does this have an inside protection for that ?
I have several meters to measure the 18650's resistance and they do not agree on most batteries, sometimes they are as far apart that few points -that I can understand- is OK, but when it is several 10's that I don't understand. I've purchased a XTAR DRAGON that comes with probes also to measure the resistance. How do you determine if the battery is OK or 1/3 bad or 1/2... bad? I was thinking to make my own charging, discharging, testing and testing batteries like 18650 .... but with a unique serial number on each battery and the "charger/tester/xxx will know the "signature" of that battery and can predict how it will perform. Have you seen anything like it? Thank you again. Tony
Richard,
Once the betteries have the protection circuit and I want to put into a 6S20P. Can they be spot welded still?
When making bigger battery packs you need one external BMS to controll all the cells. You need one 6S BMS isntead of the 1S shown in the video.
I see that there are 3.5W and 5W available but don’t see that on the battery spec sheet. What’s the difference?
I did it but battery is still discharging below 3.7v - it dropped to 3.2v before my flashlight stopped working. What could be the reason? Is circuit not working? Is flashlight responsible by bypassing circuit somehow with pulse voltage?
Hi I have an old tablet using a 1s lipo battery with a battery protection board (bpb) I guess lol
I was wondering if I can remove that bpb from old lipo and then put the same bpb 5 x 18650 Li-Ion in parallel therefore increasing the battery life?
I would not recommend this. Use a BMS (battery management system) designed for your battery array. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Great video Richard .. Thank you. I just received a few boards from ebay India. Mine has two of 8205A - 8 pin mosfets along with DW01 in each board. I am not sure whether it is 5 or 6A. Could you please tell me what are 2 pads 'P+ and P-' on the board for.
Mine is the same it has two 8205A as well. The +B +P are common to each other. If you run a continuity check you will see that they are common. The -p and the negative terminal are common as well. So in theory you could connect the circuit to a battery and attach leads to the +P and the -P and charge the cell from there. The protection circuit actually is functioning on the negative lead attached to the battery by disconnecting power to the negative lead when ever an offending condition happens. Here is another protection circuit I used in a Securitying Light video goo.gl/WLmxLn the add shows a schematic of how to connect a cell to the same pads you find on your protection circuit. Here is the video on how I used it: ruclips.net/video/PjTX_WQcnZE/видео.html
Thanks a ton Richard .. My confusion is cleared now .. and thanks again for the other helpful links !
You are most welcome. Happy to help. I am sure it will help others as well. Thanks for watching and commenting. All the best.
Hi just a quick question... Does one still need a BMS for a battery pack for charging if your using these circuit protectors?
It depends, if you want the BMS to balancing the cells as well as protect the cells then you need the BMS. If all the BMS does is protect the cells then there really is no difference between a protection BMS and the individual protection circuits on each cell. They both do the same job. Understand that battery packs that have a BMS are usually comprised of unprotected bare cells. I certainly do not recommend using both protection circuits (BMS and single cell protection circuits) at the same time because of compatibility issues. Pick one or the other. Thanks.
Flux is your friend!
I really like your videos and have subscribed. I am using the same cell and want to add on-cell protection for some of the projects I'm doing with them. I'd like your opinion regarding a larger project I'm planning for 3S/5P pack. I have a 25A BMS board that should handle that in terms of over and under charge and balance, and I plan to use 6A resettable fuses on all of the + terminals. My primary concern is with safety, and I'd appreciate your opinion regarding use of unprotected cells in this application; i.e., do you think adding individual cell protection would be redundant overkill? I plan to carefully monitor the balance and check individual cell potential periodically. I will also use a 4 button charger similar to yours for periodic balance charge independent of the board. Any other advice would be appreciated. Thanks again for your great videos. I look forward to watching more of them.
I like the resetable fuses, that's a good idea. Individual cell protection is overkill. Your BMS should be good enough to handle the task. Individual cell protection would just add cost, time, a new point of failure, complexity, weight, and added power consumption for very little to no gain. You could use something like this at eBay: goo.gl/BZBDWL You could buy three or use a switch to toggle between cell packs. Make sure you use the proper gauge wire as well I believe 12 gauge or larger (please look up the specification) I also bought a bunch of XT60 connectors (rated 60 amps continuous) So I can quickly connect and disconnect components. Make sure you get a sturdy enough case for your project too. Thanks. All the best.
What is that metal thingy u use to hold the battery?
If I'm re-celling a laptop battery, do you know if I can safely just rely on the PCM that's already in there?
Why did you remove the protection circuit from Panasonic NCR18650B in the first place ? . That cell is one of the very few that do come with the protection pre installed.
The stock Panasonic NCR18650B comes with a vent protection mechanism that allows gasses to vent from the cell in the event of a catastrophic failure. This keeps it from exploding but it does not have any electronic protection circuit built in to stop the catastrophic failure from happening in the first place. They state *PCB Protected Board No on the Amazon listing here: amzn.to/2uIikVR
If you have to do more than one battery good luck!! 40 minutes a piece hah
so would this apply to other larger li-ion batteries such as samsungs new 2170? No one makes a protected one yet and I would love to make one just to have 1000 or so extra mAh
As long as you bought a protection circuit that matched the parameters of the cell, yes you could do it. Thanks.
Richard Lloyd when you say match the parameters, you mean the constant/max discharge rate and voltage output?
4 Pcs E-bay factory NCR18650B with PCB and button top for $20.00. why convert???
Prices and values change over time. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
I want to warn as many people as i an about these 18650 batteries.
Yes you can make 3S,4S,6S,7S,etc....battery packs. I used to make awesome portable battery packs that would be great for camping , charging drone batteries etc... The problem is this.
When you are charging phones iPads, drone batteries, be very careful not to go below..
Ex. 3S - 9v, 4S-12v, 6S-18v, 7S-21v
If your voltage drop below these marks you better have a BMS attached for charging. If not you will lose half of your batteries, and the other half will overcharge immediately causing batteries to start leaking and then fire and then little missiles flying around in your room or where ever the battery pack is charging. they will cause a lot of damage and can easily burn your house down.
Having a bms connected to your charging port will save your batteries.
why: because it will bottom balance your pack and prevent to total collapse of batteries when charging
Some people on RUclips are saying you don't need a BMS, and I started going that route but found out the hard way and have lost a 200SQ ft shop due to fire.
Richard is by far the best teacher in this category and really explains in detail.
I see this video and will start using this technique along with good BMS cards
Proper charge cycling is crucial to long life and safety. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
too much trouble.
Nicely done video. I need help with something I'm curious about. I bought a OLight H2R Nova Flashlight and it uses a Custom 3000 mA battery. OLight is adamant about the battery being the only battery you can use in that flashlight. Is this because the protection circuit of the battery is so specific to match the flashlights control board or something else. I hope you can answer this question for me because they charge $20 for a single cell and with shipping that's a really expensive battery. Thanks in advance.
They say "customized" battery but they don't state how. So your guess is as good as mine. More than likely it has a protection circuit that cuts of the charge cycle to their specifications (guessing here). Most protection circuits are not designed to be used as a charge cut off circuit they are usually set to a higher and lower voltage level than the specification so as to let the user discharge to the limit and charge to the limit without triggering. The thought being that the protection circuit is only there to protect against the unlikely failure of the charger to stop the overcharge of the cell or the device over discharging the cell. But in this case I am only guessing the only real way to find out is to test the cell or have someone at Olight tell you the specs. Thanks.
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@Richard Lloyd, I noticed a linear-type protection circuit board that seems to do the same thing, except it costs less money and would trail along the side of the cell (I'm assuming inside the shrink tubing). ten of these costs $2.75... since I'm holding the cells together with brackets that provide enough space for the slight 1-3 mm bulge, do you think I should just go with these? Here's a link : www.ebay.com/itm/10x-3A-Protection-Board-for-1S-3-7V-18650-Li-ion-lithium-Battery-W-Solder-Belt/282474147244?_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Df40666d85b31471b811e9c652cd8fa44%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D282243648769
Sure, if you have the space and they give you the proper protection limits. I noticed that the over current protection is a little on the low side at 1-3 amps. I would expect most 18650 cells to be able to deliver 1Amp discharge without issue so you should consider that if you are going to put a greater than 1Amp load on the cells. Here is the one I used one of internally on a flashlight at Ebay: goo.gl/y1QozU so I could use bare cells in flashlight with out issue. Here is the video for that: ruclips.net/video/PjTX_WQcnZE/видео.html Thanks. All the best.
hi.... interesting videos.... i live in europe and i can't order a protection circuit you've indicated on eBay or Amazon.... I've found them on aliexpress but I'm not sure are the right ones.... aliexpress says.,....1S 5A 4.2V lipo lithium Polymer BMS/PCM/PCB battery protection circuit board for 1 Packs 18650 Li-ion Battery Cell
Here is a similar unit to what I used on Aliexpress goo.gl/ePaUr1 I can't say it's the same as I have not purchased them but they seem so. Thanks.
Richard Lloyd ohhhh thanks buddy..... i think your videos are interesting.... there's a lot to learn.... great and thanks
You are most welcome. I may buy a few of those from Aliexpress to see how they compare. Thanks for asking and bringing this to my attention. I may start posting the Aliexpress links too. All the best.
Aren't we still overcharging and over discharging the battery beyond what's known as "safe" here?
I believe the protection circuits are to be used as safety devices. They are designed to allow the optimum range the cells range without interruption. The protection circuit should not be relied upon to charge or discharge the cell. BTW once the over discharge protection kicks in (open circuit) the cell usually recovers to over the 2.50V range on it's own. Thanks.
Ok so its like a second line of defence to prevent the battery from accidental death or going up in flames! Yeah I seen the batteries recovering within seconds of getting it to lower voltages. I still think 2.2 volts is low. I have done my protection on few of my batteries same way as you have done only difference is I have used Kapton tape. Thank you for the video, it was really interesting.
I have Kapton tape and may use it in a future project but I think the primary wrap was a good enough insulator and the Kapton tape was not required. Thanks for watching and the great feed back. All the best.
BTW I just did a full discharge on this cell (NCR18650B protected) 4.20V down 2.50V at 2.0 Amp and it gave me 3426 mAh capacity so I don't think it's being damaged by the little discharge testing I have done with this circuit. Thanks again.
Exhaustive
Thank you.
I had to come back and add this.. The battery Mfg'ers are going to hate you .. LOL
The battery manufacturers will be happy. The protected cell manufacturers maybe not so much.... I am certainly happy with my results. BTW I was thinking when the cell is no longer useful you can always move the protection circuit to another cell and continue on. Thanks.