Just a little info for the DIY people... 6.299987 mm = 1/4" inch... so a 1/4" ID o-ring is less than 2 hundred-thousandths smaller than 6.3mm original. And for the OD - 8.700008mm = 11/32" Inch - which means 11/32" is 8 Millionths larger OD than the original. I'd say a good variety box of o'rings would have one that would work for most DIYers. I've got two boxes of O-rings from Harbor Freight which have been great to have on hand many times. One box is metric and the other box is imperial. They're made from Nitrile rubber so they are good for oil, gasoline, petroleum based hydraulic fluids ect. I'm sure one of those will work fine. EDIT: Ok, well the one's in the kit are a bit "fatter". They should work, but if you don't already have the o-ring kits... for the DIYer if you want to be certain, then just buy the gasket set.
Here is the thing alot of people think any old O ring will work and head to Lowes in plumbing sec for such. Put in and say I told ya it works. Yeah I'll see you soon when the eth and gas etc eats the damn thing up. Good point out in vid on that Viton. See these companies ( Briggs etc ) are slick. They get bulk at next to nothing and charge ten arms and make you buy a kit most times depending. Now as to these knock off kits I question alot exactly what that O ring is made out of myself. Let alone the needle tip and some other parts. I just rebuilt a NIkki yesterday that was so much white inside I filled a spoon. I had brought a kit and I did nothing but fight with it. Mainly the Little jet ring and mid size ring. Little was fat and would not go up tube all the way thus could not seal plastic. Mid size ring was fat and I spent hrs getting it to fit and lock plastic in hole. One hell of a day. Good side my rider I brought used fires right up and not one issue. Prior it leaked gas at side and gas in oil. Some idiot bad gassed the carb. Now in my hands good to go and I use only 90 oct no eth.
Otra cosa que le pasa y nadie te dice Las orejas de la cuba son tan debiles que se doblan y la tapa y ende el arito de goma y las otras gomas no ajustan y se inunda y la gasolina anda por dentro del laberinto y no regula ni a palos Es con mucho el PEOR carburador de B&S
Thank you brother in Baton Rouge that carburetor rebuild kit is $60.37 w/tax. For that 1 Oring. Ridiculous!!!!!!! I just bought it today. Thanks again. I did the like button and subscribed. Keep it up.
I had this problem in the middle of a big job. I had an old gasket as a backup and used part of the gasket for a quick fix. Looking at gasket as if installed, little circle on the right is damn near the same size. Its still in my carb 1 month later. Dont know if they planned that or not but if in a pickle, Mickey Mouse ears are staring at a quick hack.
WOW, maybe you can help again. I bought the kit, 20 bucks. The main jet, that is a tiny lil sucker. Well guess what? That sucker is now GONE, trying to put it on. So, where in hell can I get an O ring for that main Jet? Auto stores are slightly too big. After watching your video I am now convinced it is a specialty thing, again!! TY, I have spent a ton of time but I think you just save me twice as much.
Have a couple questions that I think if we could all answer collectively would benefit us all in getting these carbs. to work with substituted O-rings . Looks like the main jet fits over the ledge on the bottom of the brass nozzle/emulsion tube that comes down through the big white plastic piece. Is it only the tension the O-ring on the jet pushes out against the white plastic bore that keeps the WHOLE JET AND TINY O-RING from falling down out of the bottom of the white plastic bore and then going up and down with the fuel shut off valve movements? If that happens you lose your max. fuel metering, but also might lose your acceleration well of fuel that provides extra fuel when you suddenly goose the throttle wide-open . At less than max. load and wide-open throttle gas comes up the emulsion tube and passes out through the drilled holes and fills that space between the emulsion tube and white plastic bore. When you accelerate the engine that extra fuel in that well is pulled into the nozzle along with gas coming up from the main jet. Is there anything on the lower side of that main jet that keeps it from falling down off the ledge on the bottom of the nozzle/emulsion tube ? I originally wanted to eliminate the main jet and its O-ring and then solder the bottom of the emulsion tube shut and then drill the proper orifice through the solder to be my main jet . But then I realized I'd lose my accelerator well/accelerator pump. The next bigger O-ring that the OP made this vid. about seals the fuel coming in through the fuel line so that gas doesn't just leak over the top of the big white plastic piece and making its way into the fuel bowl despite the needle valve being closed. I have an about ten year old Craftsman model 247.288852 46-inch riding mower with NIKKI 389 carb. in which I've lost the main jet LOL ! . I've seen many Briggs and Stratton main jets with the O-rings on Amazon ; but no adds specifying the jet is specifically for my model number tractor and HAVING THE CORRECT ORIFICE DIAMETER. Seems all these main jets for the various models have the same Outside diameter but who knows what Orifice diameters ? Appreciate all the work you folks have contributed to this subject already.
Hello, thank you for the info. I hate when they keep info like that from people. I ran into that many times over the years. I working on a B&G 19hp 33R877 0012 G1 motor I'm on my 3 Nikki carb look alike the first 2 the motor ran at high rpm but surged and popped and wouldn't idle at all. it would smooth out a lot better if i applied the choke manually. my third carb the idle just purr's but when i raise rpm's to high idle it runs like crap and surges and poppes not as bad but it sounds like its running out of fuel. giving it chokes makes it lose power and pops I get some black smoke from the exhaust. telling me I running rich. The question I got Do you know the Jet size hole on the main jet is. I have been trying to drill the main hole larger I'm up to #58 or 56 don't re-call but I don't think is any better. I did ck the valve lash and its in spec. Thank you if you can give me any hrlp...
Great info.. went to my store and they got 5 in for me What about the size of the o ring for the jet..the real small one...cos they are the second most important o ring that goes
@@joesphbaumgardner4579 When I have one of these carbs and the tiny O-ring on the main jet is bad. They won’t keep the main jet in place. Here’s what I do. First you need to buy the O-ring assortment from Harbor Freight Tools. The O-rings made out of Viton. There’s one size in there that I use for this. I do not replace the O-ring on the jet. I put the jet in place. Then I put an O-ring down into the hole so that it sits ON TOP of the main jet. When you put the carb back together the emulsion tube will hold that O-ring and the main jet in place perfectly.
dson162 For the main jet I bought a set of Viton O-rings from Harbor Freight Tools. Here’s the trick. You put the main jet in first AND THEN you put the O-ring down in the hole so that it’s ON TOP of the main jet. When you put the carb back together the imultion tube goes down and presses against that O-ring and holds the jet in place. The O-ring also keeps fuel from getting around the main jet. It works perfectly. I’ve done this many times. I’ll post a video later and see what size the O-ring is.
Robert Yearian It usually is. That O-ring has to be perfect. Surging could also be caused by the main jet being partially clogged or another port somewhere in the carb being partially clogged. It could be an air leak where the carb is mounted to the engine. It could even be bad gas. Some carb part numbers are 591731, 796109, 594593, 590400, 794512, 697202, 594593.
Ok thank you anyways i looked up the place you posted and they dont have any do you know a part # for that o ring or another place i can get this o ring i need one asap
Get on eBay or Amazon. Search for ,” Briggs 698781”. It’s a kit with just the bowl gasket with the inlet O-ring and it has that tiny O-ring in it that goes on the jet. Some of them don’t have the jet O-ring so be sure to look at the picture. Make sure you see the big goofy looking bowl seal. The one small O-ring AND the tiny O-ring.
In a pinch you can also put the jet into the white plastic part then put a small O-ring down into the hole ON TOP OF THE JET. Then put the carb together. The brass tube on the carb will hold the O-ring in place and keep the jet pushed down into place. It works great. You can buy an assortment of viton O-rings from Harbor Freight tools and there are some O-rings in there that work for this trick.
@@wcjcnc Thanks, brother. Got it, last one! Hopefully that little o-ring will fix the original carb. Got another question. My mower is 2004 model, 22 horse, Intek. Keeps flooding out. It runs for 1-2 minutes, but the gas/oil eventually comes pouring out of the PCV tube back into the D shaped air box. I have since bought a replacement carb off Amazon. that didn't fix it, did the same thing. Thought maybe a bad carb. Returned that carb, got a new one, same thing happens. Is there anything else that would cause that? What are the odds I'd get 2 bad carbs? It runs fine when I disconnect the fuel line and let it run off what's in the bowl, so I don't think it's the motor.
@@americantaxpayer4551 You said gas/oil. ? So gas and oil are getting into the air filter box? Check your oil level. Make sure gas didn’t get into the oil
@@wcjcnc Yes, gas in the oil, and the gas that comes spitting out of the PCV is brownish. I'm just assuming it's mixed with oil. I changed the oil today and filled it, so the level was dead on. Gas was drained and new gas put in the tank. Then I put the 2nd new carb on and got the same issue. After that I just parked it. I'm in New Hampshire so I won't need it until spring. I figured I'd fix it somehow, over winter. Hopefully the little o-ring will fix the original carb?
Robert Yearian They are a piece of crap. There is a carburetor you can replace it with that is a direct replacement and it IS NOT a Nikki knockoff. The choke and throttle rods hook up exactly the same way. I buy them on eBay. Look for Briggs 699831
Robert Yearian Get on eBay or Amazon and search for Briggs 699831. The choke and throttle controls attach exactly like the Nikki. The new carb will not have the fuel solenoid on the bottom of it but it’s not necessary anyway
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I've watched about 50 videos trying to find the fix for my carb - this video was the answer!! Thank you!!
Just a little info for the DIY people... 6.299987 mm = 1/4" inch... so a 1/4" ID o-ring is less than 2 hundred-thousandths smaller than 6.3mm original. And for the OD - 8.700008mm = 11/32" Inch - which means 11/32" is 8 Millionths larger OD than the original.
I'd say a good variety box of o'rings would have one that would work for most DIYers. I've got two boxes of O-rings from Harbor Freight which have been great to have on hand many times. One box is metric and the other box is imperial. They're made from Nitrile rubber so they are good for oil, gasoline, petroleum based hydraulic fluids ect. I'm sure one of those will work fine.
EDIT: Ok, well the one's in the kit are a bit "fatter". They should work, but if you don't already have the o-ring kits... for the DIYer if you want to be certain, then just buy the gasket set.
Harbor freight has viton o-rings and two in the set for these Nikki carbs , one for gas inlet and one for small jet.
Do you the part number on that Viton set at Harbor Freight store. Thank you
Here is the thing alot of people think any old O ring will work and head to Lowes in plumbing sec for such. Put in and say I told ya it works. Yeah I'll see you soon when the eth and gas etc eats the damn thing up. Good point out in vid on that Viton. See these companies ( Briggs etc ) are slick. They get bulk at next to nothing and charge ten arms and make you buy a kit most times depending. Now as to these knock off kits I question alot exactly what that O ring is made out of myself. Let alone the needle tip and some other parts. I just rebuilt a NIkki yesterday that was so much white inside I filled a spoon. I had brought a kit and I did nothing but fight with it. Mainly the Little jet ring and mid size ring. Little was fat and would not go up tube all the way thus could not seal plastic. Mid size ring was fat and I spent hrs getting it to fit and lock plastic in hole. One hell of a day. Good side my rider I brought used fires right up and not one issue. Prior it leaked gas at side and gas in oil. Some idiot bad gassed the carb. Now in my hands good to go and I use only 90 oct no eth.
Otra cosa que le pasa y nadie te dice Las orejas de la cuba son tan debiles que se doblan y la tapa y ende el arito de goma y las otras gomas no ajustan y se inunda y la gasolina anda por dentro del laberinto y no regula ni a palos Es con mucho el PEOR carburador de B&S
Thank you brother in Baton Rouge that carburetor rebuild kit is $60.37 w/tax. For that 1 Oring. Ridiculous!!!!!!! I just bought it today. Thanks again. I did the like button and subscribed. Keep it up.
Harbor freight stores will sale a box of different o rings under $11.00 that will fit perfectly on those Nikki Carburetors.
Great Video ,Going the extra mile to find a way to save money on a repair and share the results.
This is gold!
Thank you from a repair guy in Norway 🇧🇻🇺🇸😁👍
Glad it helped
These O-rings also work on the Nikki carbs for the V-twin Briggs. For the fuel inlet AND the part that fits in the bottom of the bowl.
Can i buy from you. I need one for my vtwin carb?
I had this problem in the middle of a big job. I had an old gasket as a backup and used part of the gasket for a quick fix. Looking at gasket as if installed, little circle on the right is damn near the same size. Its still in my carb 1 month later. Dont know if they planned that or not but if in a pickle, Mickey Mouse ears are staring at a quick hack.
There are sellers on eBay selling sets of 10 FKM NIKKI bowl gaskets with the FKM intake and jet o-rings for around $9 now.
WOW, maybe you can help again. I bought the kit, 20 bucks. The main jet, that is a tiny lil sucker. Well guess what? That sucker is now GONE, trying to put it on. So, where in hell can I get an O ring for that main Jet? Auto stores are slightly too big. After watching your video I am now convinced it is a specialty thing, again!! TY, I have spent a ton of time but I think you just save me twice as much.
Have a couple questions that I think if we could all answer collectively would benefit us all in getting these carbs. to work with substituted O-rings . Looks like the main jet fits over the ledge on the bottom of the brass nozzle/emulsion tube that comes down through the big white plastic piece. Is it only the tension the O-ring on the jet pushes out against the white plastic bore that keeps the WHOLE JET AND TINY O-RING from falling down out of the bottom of the white plastic bore and then going up and down with the fuel shut off valve movements? If that happens you lose your max. fuel metering, but also might lose your acceleration well of fuel that provides extra fuel when you suddenly goose the throttle wide-open . At less than max. load and wide-open throttle gas comes up the emulsion tube and passes out through the drilled holes and fills that space between the emulsion tube and white plastic bore. When you accelerate the engine that extra fuel in that well is pulled into the nozzle along with gas coming up from the main jet. Is there anything on the lower side of that main jet that keeps it from falling down off the ledge on the bottom of the nozzle/emulsion tube ? I originally wanted to eliminate the main jet and its O-ring and then solder the bottom of the emulsion tube shut and then drill the proper orifice through the solder to be my main jet . But then I realized I'd lose my accelerator well/accelerator pump.
The next bigger O-ring that the OP made this vid. about seals the fuel coming in through the fuel line so that gas doesn't just leak over the top of the big white plastic piece and making its way into the fuel bowl despite the needle valve being closed.
I have an about ten year old Craftsman model 247.288852 46-inch riding mower with NIKKI 389 carb. in which I've lost the main jet LOL ! . I've seen many Briggs and Stratton main jets with the O-rings on Amazon ; but no adds specifying the jet is specifically for my model number tractor and HAVING THE CORRECT ORIFICE DIAMETER. Seems all these main jets for the various models have the same Outside diameter but who knows what Orifice diameters ?
Appreciate all the work you folks have contributed to this subject already.
Dang I wish I had ordered when you did or with you
Thank You for information
I m in west Texas and will order them
Thanks for your very informative video.
You ROCK for sharing this info especially since you paid for it...
You’re welcome
Thanks for posting this!!!
Is this o ring the cause of surging problem on these carburetors.
Great video.
Thank you
D Lastname Yes, this one little O-ring causes a lot of problems.
wcjcnc thank you for the reply. Looks like I will have to.order a bag of them.
Thanks for the information
wcjcnc . Would you consider selling me 10 or 20 of them. I'm in Canada and really dont have a use for 100 of them. Just a thought
No sorry
wcjcnc
That's ok. Had to ask. I just ordered them for $1.60 each for 100
thank you
Hello, thank you for the info. I hate when they keep info like that from people. I ran into that many times over the years. I working on a B&G 19hp 33R877 0012 G1 motor I'm on my 3 Nikki carb look alike the first 2 the motor ran at high rpm but surged and popped and wouldn't idle at all. it would smooth out a lot better if i applied the choke manually. my third carb the idle just purr's but when i raise rpm's to high idle it runs like crap and surges and poppes not as bad but it sounds like its running out of fuel. giving it chokes makes it lose power and pops I get some black smoke from the exhaust. telling me I running rich. The question I got Do you know the Jet size hole on the main jet is. I have been trying to drill the main hole larger I'm up to #58 or 56 don't re-call but I don't think is any better. I did ck the valve lash and its in spec. Thank you if you can give me any hrlp...
Great info.. went to my store and they got 5 in for me
What about the size of the o ring for the jet..the real small one...cos they are the second most important o ring that goes
Best video ever!!!!
jimmy popp Thanks!
Hi any word on main jet o ring size? Thanks for a helpful video!
leadweight guy ---Let me see what I can do
Six months later, what is the size of that that little pain ring?
@@joesphbaumgardner4579 When I have one of these carbs and the tiny O-ring on the main jet is bad. They won’t keep the main jet in place. Here’s what I do. First you need to buy the O-ring assortment from Harbor Freight Tools. The O-rings made out of Viton. There’s one size in there that I use for this. I do not replace the O-ring on the jet. I put the jet in place. Then I put an O-ring down into the hole so that it sits ON TOP of the main jet. When you put the carb back together the emulsion tube will hold that O-ring and the main jet in place perfectly.
Your the real mvp
Will this cause the carb to flood into the intake tube. While running and sitting
98whiteGSX100 Yes, absolutely.
wcjcnc thanx man. I’m pretty sure that’s the issue with my carb. I’m also having an issue with another carb. Slight surge/cutoff
He went crazy 😝 lolol
How about the O-ring for the Main Jet in the pick up tube?
ruclips.net/video/jGB1Dmie1hc/видео.html
What about o-ring for main jet?
dson162 For the main jet I bought a set of Viton O-rings from Harbor Freight Tools. Here’s the trick. You put the main jet in first AND THEN you put the O-ring down in the hole so that it’s ON TOP of the main jet. When you put the carb back together the imultion tube goes down and presses against that O-ring and holds the jet in place. The O-ring also keeps fuel from getting around the main jet. It works perfectly. I’ve done this many times. I’ll post a video later and see what size the O-ring is.
They don't go bad...
@@wcjcnc Hi any word on main jet o ring size? Thanks for a helpful video!
@@wcjcnc 9 months later, do you have a vid on this please on how exactly to do all? Also the original size of O ring on jet?
I buy a lot of these nikki carbarator and they all seem to Serge is the surging caused from that o ring
Robert Yearian It usually is. That O-ring has to be perfect. Surging could also be caused by the main jet being partially clogged or another port somewhere in the carb being partially clogged. It could be an air leak where the carb is mounted to the engine. It could even be bad gas. Some carb part numbers are 591731, 796109, 594593, 590400, 794512, 697202, 594593.
@@wcjcnc And for 593197?
I been trying to find a few of these can i purchase a few from you?
No sorry
Ok thank you anyways i looked up the place you posted and they dont have any do you know a part # for that o ring or another place i can get this o ring i need one asap
@@BC-um8oe These O-rings are an odd size that you can just buy. You have to pay them to make them for you.
I can't find an o-ring for the brass jet. Even a rebuild kit doesn't have it. Any solution to that? Mine's gone completely.
Get on eBay or Amazon. Search for ,” Briggs 698781”. It’s a kit with just the bowl gasket with the inlet O-ring and it has that tiny O-ring in it that goes on the jet. Some of them don’t have the jet O-ring so be sure to look at the picture. Make sure you see the big goofy looking bowl seal. The one small O-ring AND the tiny O-ring.
In a pinch you can also put the jet into the white plastic part then put a small O-ring down into the hole ON TOP OF THE JET. Then put the carb together. The brass tube on the carb will hold the O-ring in place and keep the jet pushed down into place. It works great. You can buy an assortment of viton O-rings from Harbor Freight tools and there are some O-rings in there that work for this trick.
@@wcjcnc Thanks, brother. Got it, last one! Hopefully that little o-ring will fix the original carb. Got another question. My mower is 2004 model, 22 horse, Intek. Keeps flooding out. It runs for 1-2 minutes, but the gas/oil eventually comes pouring out of the PCV tube back into the D shaped air box. I have since bought a replacement carb off Amazon. that didn't fix it, did the same thing. Thought maybe a bad carb. Returned that carb, got a new one, same thing happens. Is there anything else that would cause that? What are the odds I'd get 2 bad carbs? It runs fine when I disconnect the fuel line and let it run off what's in the bowl, so I don't think it's the motor.
@@americantaxpayer4551 You said gas/oil. ? So gas and oil are getting into the air filter box? Check your oil level. Make sure gas didn’t get into the oil
@@wcjcnc Yes, gas in the oil, and the gas that comes spitting out of the PCV is brownish. I'm just assuming it's mixed with oil. I changed the oil today and filled it, so the level was dead on. Gas was drained and new gas put in the tank. Then I put the 2nd new carb on and got the same issue. After that I just parked it. I'm in New Hampshire so I won't need it until spring. I figured I'd fix it somehow, over winter. Hopefully the little o-ring will fix the original carb?
Man I've done everything possible to those things
Robert Yearian They are a piece of crap. There is a carburetor you can replace it with that is a direct replacement and it IS NOT a Nikki knockoff. The choke and throttle rods hook up exactly the same way. I buy them on eBay. Look for Briggs 699831
Can you tell me what they are I have three here new ones that are junk all I find I'd nikki
Robert Yearian Get on eBay or Amazon and search for Briggs 699831. The choke and throttle controls attach exactly like the Nikki. The new carb will not have the fuel solenoid on the bottom of it but it’s not necessary anyway
Thank you sr I appreciate that merry Christmas
Thank you I'll do it