3+9 is for stability and a flatter shot. 12 gives you more power and can give you more spin. I advocate adding smaller amounts of lead tape over time as you can get injured with a large, sudden increase. My racquets have 15 grams from 10 to 2.
Remind guys , the rackets of any companies are sold with differents specs , they don t leave the factory with the same quality . My blade V7 16x19 has 308 gr and the swingweight is very high , is like a pro racket , she has a ton of power when I hit hard and is very plowthrow with any customisation . One of my friend has another Blade V7 16x19 but lighter more manoeuvrable ,, the wight is more in the handle very distinct racquet ...
I think you need to add lead to both the head and handle. I have added a smaller amount to the sides. Keeping the amount equal to the handle is the key to keep it balanced appropriately. Lead it up and see the difference.
Before adding lead I would explore lowering string tension 2 to 4 pounds lower and see if you like the control. you will get more power. Then if that still doesn't give you what you are looking for add the lead.
I have had one Blade V7 16 x 19 for close to two years, most of that time with 1/4 inch gamma lead tape at 3 and 9 as showed in this video and it has felt well through out. I got a new Blade V7 16 x 19 a month ago and did the same thing and had to remove it, it has felt a lot heavier and less maneuverable. That must be that this new one from stock came heavier in specs indeed.
Inertia says: - If somehow racket's twisting in your hands then maybe add weight on the sides at 9&3 for twist stability.. - To simply get a greater swing weight then weight at the tip eg: 12(tip) makes sense. - For an greater swing weight and a heavier racket then weight at the ends e.g.: 12(tip)&6(grip) makes sense. I personally have weight at 12 underneath the head guard as well as weight at 6 under the grip for a heavier racket and greater swing weight. After doing this I later learned Roger had a similar setup with weight underneath the head guard. I'm using an oversize racket and have a modern heavy game. It seems counterproductive to add weight at 9&3 as the head size grows larger and larger because of the inherent inertial twist-stability of a wide-frame racket (wider frame, more weight out wide, more stability). Also there are many ways to prevent the racket from twisting in your hands such as using a tackier grip or a larger grip. All this said, during a swing the racket isn't twisting much and I'm having a hard to understanding why adding weight at 9&3 alone is a good idea.
I've tried different spots in my Dunlop CX200 and Fury Arma Pro 98 and the best results for me is with 4 grams at 3 and 9 (Total). More stability and plow to the raquet. Also the sweet spot feel a bit more open
Don't know if it's just me, but I've found that any racket beyond about 8 points HL just doesn't have enough mass to get the racket head into the ball on the serve, and that's mainly when I get the lead out. I'm a flatter hitter, though with more slice than topspin in my serves, so younger players might not have that problem!
I had the same problem. because my Prostaff came underspec in SW with only 310. I added 4 gram in 12. 1 gram at 3, 1 gram at 9 and 10 grams in the handle to rebalance. Now it feels really powerful. It has 330 SW and 332 static weight. I feel that is a bit too heavy for me at the moment so I am going to wait a bit and see if I need to take out a bit of weight and maybe some more powerful string.
Are you happy with the current weight and just want more power? If yes, then just lower the tension of your string or go to a thinner gauge. The most efficient way to add power to your racquet is add weight at 12 and counterbalance in the handle if necessary.
Hi Harry. I miss the feeling and weight/balance of wood rackets. I started with Jack Kramer Autograph, then went to the “Borg” racket, then the white Rossingnol before switching to a Kennex Black Ace graphite. Borg felt a little heavier than Jack and the Rossingnol felt way too head light but I stupidly never added weight. I would periodically hit with Jack to find my swing again then played much better with my graphite sticks. Can you compare and contrast the weight characteristics of the old wood rackets to what’s popular now?
Hehe no, harry was referring to adding lead tape, just like what he did on a previous video making the Yonex Ezone 98 to Yonex Ezone 98 tour, im after the swing weight, balance, head light and the overall weight of the racket
I have 2 regna 100s and 2 regna 98 v2. They play very differently but for me i would add weight to the throat or handle. That can give you more flex. Cause the 100 just doesnt have as a buttery feeling.... also go more regna 98 feel, i would change to more flexible strings like softer string than what you currently have. They are the best racquets i have used in a long time coming from kfactor 90 to babolat pure control
@@slider2828 lovely rackets! A delight to play with, and I agree with you, also have 3 100 V2s and what I’ve thought was the 100 V3 but turns out it’s just cosmetic update, so I have 2 of the updates and one 98 V1, and the V1 98 has an almost similar specs with the V2 in-terms of weight, head light and swing weight, and I liked it very much that I wanted to copy it if I could, but if not it’s ok, it’s still the best 100 out there!
if you use extra lead w/o having a clean technique you could ruin your wrist quite easily. Keep that in mind. So before adding weight, learn a clean stroke
Harry seems to have had no issues putting on tons of lead despite his zero footwork, all arm, jerky FH! 😆 Agree that it’s far more worthwhile cleaning up one’s technique than compensating with lead.
This joker sells himself as some sort of gear expert, but talks of lead addition in “number of grommet holes” rather than specific weight relative to specific starting specs of a racquet. Does Harry assume that all racquets come off the production line with the same exact tolerances?
3+9 is for stability and a flatter shot. 12 gives you more power and can give you more spin. I advocate adding smaller amounts of lead tape over time as you can get injured with a large, sudden increase. My racquets have 15 grams from 10 to 2.
Remind guys , the rackets of any companies are sold with differents specs , they don t leave the factory with the same quality .
My blade V7 16x19 has 308 gr and the swingweight is very high , is like a pro racket , she has a ton of power when I hit hard and is very plowthrow with any customisation . One of my friend has another Blade V7 16x19 but lighter more manoeuvrable ,, the wight is more in the handle very distinct racquet ...
I think you need to add lead to both the head and handle. I have added a smaller amount to the sides. Keeping the amount equal to the handle is the key to keep it balanced appropriately. Lead it up and see the difference.
Before adding lead I would explore lowering string tension 2 to 4 pounds lower and see if you like the control. you will get more power. Then if that still doesn't give you what you are looking for add the lead.
I have had one Blade V7 16 x 19 for close to two years, most of that time with 1/4 inch gamma lead tape at 3 and 9 as showed in this video and it has felt well through out. I got a new Blade V7 16 x 19 a month ago and did the same thing and had to remove it, it has felt a lot heavier and less maneuverable. That must be that this new one from stock came heavier in specs indeed.
Inertia says:
- If somehow racket's twisting in your hands then maybe add weight on the sides at 9&3 for twist stability..
- To simply get a greater swing weight then weight at the tip eg: 12(tip) makes sense.
- For an greater swing weight and a heavier racket then weight at the ends e.g.: 12(tip)&6(grip) makes sense.
I personally have weight at 12 underneath the head guard as well as weight at 6 under the grip for a heavier racket and greater swing weight. After doing this I later learned Roger had a similar setup with weight underneath the head guard. I'm using an oversize racket and have a modern heavy game.
It seems counterproductive to add weight at 9&3 as the head size grows larger and larger because of the inherent inertial twist-stability of a wide-frame racket (wider frame, more weight out wide, more stability). Also there are many ways to prevent the racket from twisting in your hands such as using a tackier grip or a larger grip.
All this said, during a swing the racket isn't twisting much and I'm having a hard to understanding why adding weight at 9&3 alone is a good idea.
I've tried different spots in my Dunlop CX200 and Fury Arma Pro 98 and the best results for me is with 4 grams at 3 and 9 (Total). More stability and plow to the raquet. Also the sweet spot feel a bit more open
Where’s the spec up a normal ezone video?
Don't know if it's just me, but I've found that any racket beyond about 8 points HL just doesn't have enough mass to get the racket head into the ball on the serve, and that's mainly when I get the lead out. I'm a flatter hitter, though with more slice than topspin in my serves, so younger players might not have that problem!
Could you please make a video on how to add power on the Pro Staff V13 315g ? Thanks
I had the same problem. because my Prostaff came underspec in SW with only 310. I added 4 gram in 12. 1 gram at 3, 1 gram at 9 and 10 grams in the handle to rebalance. Now it feels really powerful. It has 330 SW and 332 static weight. I feel that is a bit too heavy for me at the moment so I am going to wait a bit and see if I need to take out a bit of weight and maybe some more powerful string.
Are you happy with the current weight and just want more power? If yes, then just lower the tension of your string or go to a thinner gauge. The most efficient way to add power to your racquet is add weight at 12 and counterbalance in the handle if necessary.
Hi Harry. I miss the feeling and weight/balance of wood rackets. I started with Jack Kramer Autograph, then went to the “Borg” racket, then the white Rossingnol before switching to a Kennex Black Ace graphite. Borg felt a little heavier than Jack and the Rossingnol felt way too head light but I stupidly never added weight. I would periodically hit with Jack to find my swing again then played much better with my graphite sticks. Can you compare and contrast the weight characteristics of the old wood rackets to what’s popular now?
Wish we had Geau Sport products in SA! 😢
Hi Harry, can you also do a video about making my Regna 100 V2 to the same specs of Regna 98 V2? Please 🙏🏼♥️♥️♥️
wouldn't that involve a hydraulic press to shrink the frame?
Hehe no, harry was referring to adding lead tape, just like what he did on a previous video making the Yonex Ezone 98 to Yonex Ezone 98 tour, im after the swing weight, balance, head light and the overall weight of the racket
I have 2 regna 100s and 2 regna 98 v2. They play very differently but for me i would add weight to the throat or handle. That can give you more flex. Cause the 100 just doesnt have as a buttery feeling.... also go more regna 98 feel, i would change to more flexible strings like softer string than what you currently have. They are the best racquets i have used in a long time coming from kfactor 90 to babolat pure control
@@slider2828 lovely rackets! A delight to play with, and I agree with you, also have 3 100 V2s and what I’ve thought was the 100 V3 but turns out it’s just cosmetic update, so I have 2 of the updates and one 98 V1, and the V1 98 has an almost similar specs with the V2 in-terms of weight, head light and swing weight, and I liked it very much that I wanted to copy it if I could, but if not it’s ok, it’s still the best 100 out there!
dope shirt!!
Do they still sell Babolat lead tape anywhere?
What are people using for lead now; what are the best products other than that 1980s lead tape?
There arw tungsten and copper alternatives but the mass per inch is diff per product
I still use the Tourna Lead Tape personally but I have had several team members that use Tungsten Tape instead
I put it at the 3 and 9
if you use extra lead w/o having a clean technique you could ruin your wrist quite easily. Keep that in mind. So before adding weight, learn a clean stroke
Harry seems to have had no issues putting on tons of lead despite his zero footwork, all arm, jerky FH! 😆
Agree that it’s far more worthwhile cleaning up one’s technique than compensating with lead.
Is the guy asking the question me from a different universe????
After putting on so much lead, you are better off just playing with a Pro Staff RF97 Autograph 😂
sounds like he need to sell the Blade and go back to the PS
I was talking about Harry 🤣
Lol. The grip didn't fit because the handle was too long and girthy
Sadly my balls don't penetrate either 🤣
Reading glasses?
This joker sells himself as some sort of gear expert, but talks of lead addition in “number of grommet holes” rather than specific weight relative to specific starting specs of a racquet. Does Harry assume that all racquets come off the production line with the same exact tolerances?