I never got tired of listening to you. Always learning something new. The level of information and help you bring to us from inside ACC is just amazing. I cannot see any other game developer giving so much you tube videos, so informative, so into the community like you do; I am sure this is making a difference in terms of progression and success for your franchise not only now but also in the near future. I wish all the best. No matter what the future will bring to the table from other Developers, anything from AC/ACC will be number 1 supported as a loyal customer and passionate sim racer. Thank you Aris thank you AC/ACC people!!!
Great videos Aris, Thank You. Im in the early stages of learning tracks, tyres & temps, just doing the tyres alone you feel the car start to behave.. the handling feels amazing and you feel it change as you set pressures. I do that, drive some more for that feel & then dont know how to fix the final issues that arent tyre pressures so im looking forward to the rest of these videos - they are full of the info i need, the way you visually demonstrate as you go & speak of what you feel in the moment is the exact info many beginners need. It can be daunting at 1st when you realise quick tuning is essential on all cars. We are not motorsport engineers but the basics are actually really simple to learn & it becomes a much better experience from then. Its top tier gaming.
You are 100% correct. If I was teaching someone to race and they were new at it I would drive that point home. Reference points or braking points along with race line. When you get solid points all around any track you will be good. I would say learn these points at a slower race pace and after you are very comfortable then you drive car as close to out of control as you can without crashing or spinning.
@@ArisDrives Believe me I am not a race car driver but new to sim racing . About 2 years now and once I understood markers and apex and braking in a straight line or trail braking it improved my lap times and race craft 10 fold. Just about 3 months ago is when I started to get it.
it would be so nice to see this kind of race weekend management by the AI cars too.. they just go out now and keep lapping for 60 minutes :) anyway, great bunch of videos, thank you!
I'm so glad I found this channel :). I'm moving from AC to ACC and I'm taking notes of everything you said Aris :). I have a little question, can you share your graphics settings? I cannot make it look that nice and I have plenty of hardware to play with, so I know it's a matter of settings. Again, thank you for sharing this, your job is my dream job, I'm a system engineer and also a sim lover, and what you do at Kunos Simulazioni is, in a nutshell, everything I love together :D. Happy new year, from Argentina.
Huh, learned about the differentials, thx. Always thought it was the other way around. Open diff until you get one wheel to spin and then it locks to the set percentage.
@Aris.Drives , Are you sure you did not get it the wrong way around? Have a look here: virtualracingschool.com/academy/iracing-career-guide/setups/differential-basics/ "Preload spring: defines the base amount of force that is applied on these friction and clutch plates. With small enough (or negative) preload, you can open up your differential. The heavier the preload spring, the easier your differential will lock."
I'm a bit confused on the tire pressures. You adjust them but I'm a bit confused what I'm aiming for with them. It seems like you aim for maybe ~27.5psi hot is there a reason for that specific pressure, and are there cases you want other pressures? I've always set tire pressure for cars so that my middle tire temp is between the middle and outer, is there a different logic for GT3? Loving the videos, learning a lot from them
Yes you want to aim for 27,5 in dry conditions. ~30 Psi in the wet. You have been adjusting the for the exact right reason. The geometry of the tires changes depending on the pressures and in combination with camber, you want the middle of the tire to be in a temperature range between the inner (hotter) and the outer (cooler) parts of the tire.
So I am still a bit confused. I watched the Porsche 911 video at Zandvort and the rear ride height was lowered to make the car have less over steer. In this video the rear ride height was raised to make the care bite a bit more. Is that the common adjustment, down for less over steer, up for more?
Depends on the minimum ride height of each car and their aero balance. As a rule of thumb, if the aero balance it's more on the front, the car will tend to oversteer. If the balance is on the back, it's going to understeer.
Yes absolutely. That’s why we had to implement tyre wear that actually lowers the tyre depth. 3mm fresh tyre and if it wears down to 1.7-1.5 it’s critical and you should change it. Obviously the ride height will go down by 1.5 and the gear ratios will also get shorter
With open diff the internal and external wheels will rotate at different speeds, locked diff makes both wheels to spin at the same rotation. The preload is the amount of load already aplied to go from open to locked, so the heavier the preload is, the easier your differential will lock. In summary, with open diff you will have less power in one of the wheels, but your car will turn easier, with locked diff you will have the same amount of power in both internal and external wheels, making it faster but more uncontrollable on turns (oversteer). I hope I helped!
I'll try and make it easier in sim terms. If your car gets loose when off throttle (assuming your suspension is set up correctly) click it to the right. If your car gets loose all the time on power (assuming the same and that your traction control is where you like it), you'd click it left. The opposite for both cases.
@@terrylu4894 Thanks! Just to complement my observation. The preload is done by a spring which forces a clutch plate to make the lock, so basically if a greater force is pre applied into this clutch before throttle, the faster your differential will lock when you press the throttle (when even more load is created), that's why you will have oversteer more easily in a RWD car like the GT3s.
Ciao Aris! You said that the rear tyres tend to deteriorate faster than the front tyres. Is it due to the fact that the Ferrari 488 is rear-wheel drive, or there is no relation at all with it, and this degradation of the rear tyres applies in general to any race car?
All cars are RWD by rules. Usually cars with more weight at the rear will consume their rear tyres faster. Also depends on the track, driving style, temperature etc. for example, my Lexus a front heavy car was consuming faster the rear tyres at Monza. Probably because of the hard acceleration out of slow chicanes. On higher speed tracks it consumes first the fronts.
I am trying to set up the Lexus on brans hatch but find after ten laps my left front is wearing fast 2.4mm tread left and severe graining tryed safe and default also tryed lower negative camber on left wheel and tow also increase pressure but does not seem to make any difference any help would be appreciated.
If you have severe graining you're turning your steering wheel way too much in every turn. It's a bad habit and doesn't give you more grip. Watch the following video and demonstration to understand: ruclips.net/video/dJ3b4zPJfAU/видео.html
@@ArisDrives ok thank you for your help much appreciated. Seems strange as on this game compare to others I hardly move the wheel most I ever turn it is 90 degrees for a sharp turn . I will definitely watch your video and try turn a little less
No worries, make sure you use 900° on your steering wheel or at least the same lock as the car you choose. Make sure the ingame steering wheel rotates 1 on 1 with your own steering wheel
Ok thank you I don't drive in car view so will check that out. I have a t500rs which is currently set to 1080 never really messed with it so wil change both to 900. The only way I have found to counteract this was turn up the steering like you suggested in another post. You have been a great help top call developer
it's awesome with a TMX on xbox S - neither is the newest or best and the game is amazing for me - maybe very light in the wheel and something higher-end with a wider dynamic range would be more "realistic" a newer console would give better frame rates and resolution, but this is most definitely playtable on the cheapest force feedback wheels. Hope you can figure out a way to make it work for you too!
![Megan Thee Stallion - Roc Steady (feat. Flo Milli) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HozPPyqW0dY/mqdefault.jpg)
5:25 your reaction was amazing. I'm also tired of all these stupid requests, so I can't imagine how it must feel on your side.
I apologize. I hear so many similar requests every day at some point I handle it 😊
I never got tired of listening to you. Always learning something new. The level of information and help you bring to us from inside ACC is just amazing. I cannot see any other game developer giving so much you tube videos, so informative, so into the community like you do; I am sure this is making a difference in terms of progression and success for your franchise not only now but also in the near future. I wish all the best. No matter what the future will bring to the table from other Developers, anything from AC/ACC will be number 1 supported as a loyal customer and passionate sim racer. Thank you Aris thank you AC/ACC people!!!
Great videos Aris, Thank You. Im in the early stages of learning tracks, tyres & temps, just doing the tyres alone you feel the car start to behave.. the handling feels amazing and you feel it change as you set pressures. I do that, drive some more for that feel & then dont know how to fix the final issues that arent tyre pressures so im looking forward to the rest of these videos - they are full of the info i need, the way you visually demonstrate as you go & speak of what you feel in the moment is the exact info many beginners need. It can be daunting at 1st when you realise quick tuning is essential on all cars. We are not motorsport engineers but the basics are actually really simple to learn & it becomes a much better experience from then. Its top tier gaming.
You are 100% correct. If I was teaching someone to race and they were new at it I would drive that point home. Reference points or braking points along with race line. When you get solid points all around any track you will be good. I would say learn these points at a slower race pace and after you are very comfortable then you drive car as close to out of control as you can without crashing or spinning.
Cheers! Glad it makes sense to you too
@@ArisDrives Believe me I am not a race car driver but new to sim racing . About 2 years now and once I understood markers and apex and braking in a straight line or trail braking it improved my lap times and race craft 10 fold. Just about 3 months ago is when I started to get it.
yeah right, i ALWAYS thought that making the springs softer is increase wheel rate. Thanks Aris
it would be so nice to see this kind of race weekend management by the AI cars too.. they just go out now and keep lapping for 60 minutes :)
anyway, great bunch of videos, thank you!
la prossima volta in greco antico please.
:D :D :D
Learning lots! Thank you! :-)
I'm so glad I found this channel :). I'm moving from AC to ACC and I'm taking notes of everything you said Aris :). I have a little question, can you share your graphics settings? I cannot make it look that nice and I have plenty of hardware to play with, so I know it's a matter of settings. Again, thank you for sharing this, your job is my dream job, I'm a system engineer and also a sim lover, and what you do at Kunos Simulazioni is, in a nutshell, everything I love together :D. Happy new year, from Argentina.
Huh, learned about the differentials, thx. Always thought it was the other way around. Open diff until you get one wheel to spin and then it locks to the set percentage.
@Aris.Drives , Are you sure you did not get it the wrong way around? Have a look here: virtualracingschool.com/academy/iracing-career-guide/setups/differential-basics/
"Preload spring: defines the base amount of force that is applied on these friction and clutch plates. With small enough (or negative) preload, you can open up your differential. The heavier the preload spring, the easier your differential will lock."
I'm a bit confused on the tire pressures. You adjust them but I'm a bit confused what I'm aiming for with them. It seems like you aim for maybe ~27.5psi hot is there a reason for that specific pressure, and are there cases you want other pressures? I've always set tire pressure for cars so that my middle tire temp is between the middle and outer, is there a different logic for GT3? Loving the videos, learning a lot from them
Yes you want to aim for 27,5 in dry conditions. ~30 Psi in the wet. You have been adjusting the for the exact right reason. The geometry of the tires changes depending on the pressures and in combination with camber, you want the middle of the tire to be in a temperature range between the inner (hotter) and the outer (cooler) parts of the tire.
So I am still a bit confused. I watched the Porsche 911 video at Zandvort and the rear ride height was lowered to make the car have less over steer. In this video the rear ride height was raised to make the care bite a bit more. Is that the common adjustment, down for less over steer, up for more?
Depends on the minimum ride height of each car and their aero balance. As a rule of thumb, if the aero balance it's more on the front, the car will tend to oversteer. If the balance is on the back, it's going to understeer.
When the tire depth is reduced by wear, does that affect the ride height?
Yes absolutely. That’s why we had to implement tyre wear that actually lowers the tyre depth. 3mm fresh tyre and if it wears down to 1.7-1.5 it’s critical and you should change it. Obviously the ride height will go down by 1.5 and the gear ratios will also get shorter
Aris.Drives thats awesome
can you please explain the preload differential again,i couldnt understand, esecially what is an open diff and a closed diff.
With open diff the internal and external wheels will rotate at different speeds, locked diff makes both wheels to spin at the same rotation. The preload is the amount of load already aplied to go from open to locked, so the heavier the preload is, the easier your differential will lock.
In summary, with open diff you will have less power in one of the wheels, but your car will turn easier, with locked diff you will have the same amount of power in both internal and external wheels, making it faster but more uncontrollable on turns (oversteer).
I hope I helped!
I'll try and make it easier in sim terms. If your car gets loose when off throttle (assuming your suspension is set up correctly) click it to the right. If your car gets loose all the time on power (assuming the same and that your traction control is where you like it), you'd click it left. The opposite for both cases.
@@hernanialves6938 you explains better than Aris, i was thinking totally the opposite before, now i understand what preload means here, thanks!
@@terrylu4894 Thanks! Just to complement my observation.
The preload is done by a spring which forces a clutch plate to make the lock, so basically if a greater force is pre applied into this clutch before throttle, the faster your differential will lock when you press the throttle (when even more load is created), that's why you will have oversteer more easily in a RWD car like the GT3s.
@@hernanialves6938 that's informative. just one more question, does the differential applies to all 4 wheels or just driving wheel.
Ciao Aris! You said that the rear tyres tend to deteriorate faster than the front tyres. Is it due to the fact that the Ferrari 488 is rear-wheel drive, or there is no relation at all with it, and this degradation of the rear tyres applies in general to any race car?
All cars are RWD by rules. Usually cars with more weight at the rear will consume their rear tyres faster. Also depends on the track, driving style, temperature etc. for example, my Lexus a front heavy car was consuming faster the rear tyres at Monza. Probably because of the hard acceleration out of slow chicanes. On higher speed tracks it consumes first the fronts.
I am trying to set up the Lexus on brans hatch but find after ten laps my left front is wearing fast 2.4mm tread left and severe graining tryed safe and default also tryed lower negative camber on left wheel and tow also increase pressure but does not seem to make any difference any help would be appreciated.
If you have severe graining you're turning your steering wheel way too much in every turn. It's a bad habit and doesn't give you more grip. Watch the following video and demonstration to understand: ruclips.net/video/dJ3b4zPJfAU/видео.html
@@ArisDrives ok thank you for your help much appreciated. Seems strange as on this game compare to others I hardly move the wheel most I ever turn it is 90 degrees for a sharp turn . I will definitely watch your video and try turn a little less
No worries, make sure you use 900° on your steering wheel or at least the same lock as the car you choose. Make sure the ingame steering wheel rotates 1 on 1 with your own steering wheel
Ok thank you I don't drive in car view so will check that out. I have a t500rs which is currently set to 1080 never really messed with it so wil change both to 900. The only way I have found to counteract this was turn up the steering like you suggested in another post. You have been a great help top call developer
ghosthunter2927. Why not set it to the IRL steering lock? There’re several lists online with all the cars...
20:49 for me it feels more stable at the entry of the corner if i tun it up. By turning it down i lose the rear at fast corners
Tire wear in millimeter increments seems a bit too fine. I think it should be in centimeters.
Too bad this game is unplayable with a budget steering wheel.
it's awesome with a TMX on xbox S - neither is the newest or best and the game is amazing for me - maybe very light in the wheel and something higher-end with a wider dynamic range would be more "realistic" a newer console would give better frame rates and resolution, but this is most definitely playtable on the cheapest force feedback wheels. Hope you can figure out a way to make it work for you too!