Fully Adjustable Push Block - New and Improved Design
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- Опубликовано: 10 авг 2019
- This fully adjustable push block is following on from my previous adjustable push block build, I said at the end of it that that was still a prototype, and that I had some ideas to improve it. So finally I have got around to putting all those improvements together. The biggest improvements from my point of view is the 3D printed handle, and the addition of a Perspex/flexi glass adjustable foot.
I've made this from all my own plans, however this is obviously based on the micro jig, which for ultimate safety is a fantastic tool, but in my opinion, extremely over priced for what it is.
Disclaimer: How I use my tools, equipment and PPE is down to my choice. I use these based on my experience of using and operating these tools. Do not think because I have done something a certain way it is safe for you to do say. Always follow manufactures safety guidelines.
Thanks for watching, should you which to contact me, you can do so via the methods below.
Patreon: www.patreon.com/jamesmancave
Instagram @jamesmancave
Contact - jmc.jamesmancave@gmail.com
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Tools/Products used:
AEG cordless orbital sander amzn.to/2zNZ2je
Evolution table saw amzn.to/2KKRU9V
Irwin handy clamp amzn.to/2wn313G
Gorilla wood glue amzn.to/2P2QFpI
Star Knob Screws amzn.to/2SojTB8
T Nut kit amzn.to/2yyLbfW 
Хобби
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Nice work. - Do you have a link for the stl-files to print this nice looking handle?
Thanks, yes here it is. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2396619. Hope this helps 👍
James' Man Cave Thank you so much. Best regards from Germany
Best video on the net on the pusher wood block
Thanks 👍👍👍
I agree with others who have commented on the use of metal screws. They would never come anywhere near the blade if the blade height were set correctly. However if this is still a concern, and you don't want to use dowels, another option would be to use nylon screws. The wood is soft enough so that you could insert threaded metal screws in first to establish the threads, then insert the nylon screws. If and when the wood does wear out, you can just unscrew the nylon screws and insert the new piece of wood. If some knucklehead did run a blade into the nylon screw it would not damage the blade, it would just cut the screw and could easily be replaced. Really nice handle by the way.
Thanks for the reply, this was the point i was trying to make about the screw, the blade would have to be hugely over the height of the work piece to hit the screws. With the exception of the 3D printed handle, I tried to make this out of items people may have hanging about in their workshop.
I live in WA state in the USA. And I've never seen anyone using a dust mask and hearing protection, when using a small powertool. I see people cutting concrete all the time with no mask, cutting metal studs with no hearing protection, grinding with no face shield, all on major construction sites. Unreal. I see insulators putting insulation in with short sleeve shirts and they say "oh you get used to the fiberglass on your skin." The worst is watching people sweeping up insulation and drywall dust with absolutely no dust mask, working in a big cloud of super fine silica, and fiberglass dust. From the look of it, Americans are much less cautious with their body than the smart people across the pond. Well done!
Thanks mate. I work in a loud industrial environment, so I've always got hearing protection on, I guess it just transfers to when I'm in my workshop. I will admit though, don't always have my dust mask on when I should! 🙄
Very nice. Good use of the anti slip matting
Trend Stealth masks are brilliant
Thank you for taking the time to do this video I have found it very helpful 😊 👍👍
Awesome build….love it!
Thanks for sharing that, well done!
Thanks for commenting and watching
Great build!
Great improvements. I am planning one now. Thanks for the idea's
Thanks, No problem 👍
Very cool, beats paying for the store bought one. I haven't made one of these yet, but that might soon change.
As for the matting, I've used the "grippy foam stuff", on my homemade push pads for my router table, but it never lasts long.
Then one day the wife asked if I had any use for one of those silicone rubber kitchen work mats she was going to throw away.
I knew right away what I was going to do with it.
Long story short, my push pads now have silicone rubber on them. It's been at least a couple of years and I've never had to replace the silicone.
Haha, that grippy foam stuff, I've used it for about 15 years as drawer liner in my roll cab tool box. I always thought it was just drawer liner until about 5 years ago when everyone starting using for everything but drawer liner. I know the very matts you talk off. Will keep an eye out for them, and pick up a cheap one 👍
Estupendo. Me ha parecido un trabajo realmente bien hecho y la herramienta es más que necesaria para nuestros talleres.
¡Muchas gracias!
Muchas gracias amigo!!!
Cracking push block. Do much effort and it paid off. Thanks for sharing James.
Thanks buddy, works great, glad I made it now
@@JamesManCave have you ever considered selling them on etsy or something? 😁
Haha, no not really. It's such an easy thing to make with off cuts that I don't think I'd be able to charge a price worth my time to make them. When I next do a give away, I may make one for that. But I'm glad to see you like it 👍
Great job. Tool Box drawer liner is a great idea for the Grip stuff .Thanks
Thanks, so far so good, works great for what I've used it for 👍
Very good & Straight forward. I like it👍
Thanks 👍👍👍
Sweet and simple.
Thanks, 👍
Hello James Yesterday I made a similar jig simple one.I took a 1 by 2 timber 30cms length. My timber was
Breadth 40mm
Width one side 18.4mm
Width another side 18.4mm
All measured in calipers.
I used a double side tape to cover the under surface of 1 by 2
Then cut the same length of 80 Sand paper and stuck to the double side tape.
Then on the top I screwed a handle with four screws.
A simple puch block is ready.
Wonderful...........thanks
Nice one mate, I'm going to try my hand and make one tomorrow, thanks
No problem, that's great to hear. Hope it works well for you 👍
Nice idea! Thanks. 👍🏻
No problem. 👍
Interesting to hear how your design developed; good end result too.
Hi, thanks very much. I really happy with this this design, it's works a treat. I've used it a lot in my videos
when i need to cut a threaded rod similar to the star knob, i turn on a nut onto the threaded rod completely away from the cut off area, after i cut off the threaded rod I then back off the nut i earlier put on and the nut will clean the threads at the cut off area leaving only some minor cleaning up.
I'm impressed, James, that you took all the good suggestions from your first version and made a huge improvement.
Well done!
I ended up buying one of the Chinese knock offs for over half of the original price but if I saw yours first I would have made it
Thanks very much, I know that some of my ideas I come up with on the fly so to speak will not always be perfect straight away so any suggestions are always welcomed. And I very nearly did that my self, saw a Chinese copy for about £25, but wasn't sure of it, hence making my own 👍
@@JamesManCave BTW the Chinese copy was really good and works just as well as the original but I had a moral dilemma before I bought it. Should I support a blatant copy of a patented product or just save some money. I took the latter.
very good
Very cool bending the Perspex, didn't know you could do that !
We used to call that drawer liner in the 70's - may gran loved the stuff. Now they sell it for higher prices because it is for woodworking lol
I'd like to get one of those RZ Masks but nothing fits my giant Irish melon and I hate wearing them so usually just turn on a fan 🤣
Haha, well I first came across that foam stuff about 15 years ago, and I to know it as drawer liner! My roll cab tool box is fully lined with it. Thanks for the mask suggestion, I certainly check that out. 👍
Just found you .......please keep up the good work that you are doing 😊
Thanks very much Dave, I have lots planned for the new year 👍
Greetings from Michigan. Great video James. I've used toolbox drawer liners for the grip pad and they last quite a lot longer than the shelf lining material that you have used.
Hi Mark, thanks very much for the heads up on the grip pad. I know the stuff you mean, I shall look out for some and put it to the test! 👍
CONGRATULATIONS. PARABENS.
I see that this is a few years old, but just wanted to say that I really like your design. I was thinking maybe it could be a little longer and wider, but then thought, just make another one or two for larger pieces of wood.
Oh man thanks very2 much. Been looking for this design and boom your video is at the top. Awesome build indeed. 👍👍👍
New sub here. Keep it up.
Hi mate, thanks very much, I've used it quite a bit in my videos, works a treat. Thanks for the sub, much appreciated 👍🍺
Thank you for your effort. It would be nice to add the dimensions to the video of the work.
I'm just contacting the manufacturer of 'non-slip matting' and insisting they re-name it 'grippy foam stuff'. Plus, I hope you've asked Santa for a new set of forstner bits this year, because I wasn't sure if you were drilling a hole or trying to start a fire 🤣♠
Grippy foam stuff is the proper name of it. 😂 I missed the lesson in the scouts about making fire from rubbing stick together, so I go for blunt drill bits 🔥 it's more fun
Very useful, thanks for the idea for bending Perspex and that handle looks cracking 👍 😊
Well, someone once told me, "everything is adjustable" even perspex! 🤣 Surprised you haven't tried it yet. Took a fair bit of fettling to get the 3D printer right, but I'm really happy with what it produces. Well worth the investment in it. 👍
Obviously a very wise man 😊 I have done PVC, vey useful 👍 😊
He is that wise and clever, he managed to make a spray can disappear whilst shaking it! 🤣 😂 🤣 😂
Launched it! 😂
@@JamesManCave What model 3D printer do you have?
NIce one
Hi Great vlog Regarding the facemask I have been using the trend stealth facemask they work really well and don’t stick out from your face too much if you get the right filters they will also help against silica dust which is One of the worst offender you can pick them up very reasonable on eBay or Amazon.
You could still use nylon screws. I used those in my CNC work table hold down
Cool man.
Now, I've still not bought a table saw from last year's video you did. But when I finally get my shop (I mean big shed)I will look into the Rage 5s and not the Fury as you explained in one of your previous videos.
Maybe a refresher link if possible please. Ha.
Again, thanks for sharing
Here you go sir, a link to the rage 5s review. I'm still loving using the table saw. Workshop/big shed it doesn't matter, its where you can go for a few hours a day and be sane! 🤣 ruclips.net/video/HYuyazSjp-c/видео.html
@@JamesManCave thanks James. I'll check it out again later.
You got a few negative comments from fools saying at some point you will cut the screws so you went to water instead of telling those fools that any decent woodworker would only set the height of the blade to just above the material and you would never cut the screws.
Well no, if you look at what i replied to those people, then you will see i told them exactly that! The blade only ever has to just stick out of the wood being cut, and would never be in contact with any screws. Some peoplr told me to use copper fixings. So, this was just a different take on what they could do.
Beautiful videos and very helpful. Not to nitpick, but aren't the "t-nuts" being placed on the backside of the wood, more reliable, than having them installed towards the adjustment knobs? Is there is any reason why they can't be inset on the backside, like usual?
Good project, subscribed and will make one.
My only thought is that the star nuts in that orientation might be pulled out by tightening? I think I'll use inset nuts.
if you want to use screws, attach the legs to the side of top. this allows for thinner legs and center blocks. Like if you want say a 1/4" leg.
Or, brass screws.
Thanks for sharing that, well done
No problem, thanks for watching
Very nice. It think handle should be a bit longer (higher) so you could actually grip it and still have room to turn knobs. Also the rubber is nice....similar to the commercial gripper.....but I wonder if just using sand paper glued to the bottom would work just as well.
Yes, the handle could possibly be made slightly higher, but I like the fact my fingers don't fit all the way under it as I can quickly move my hand out of the way if needed. I did try sand paper, was overly happy with it 👍
Good job that mate. You sound like you’re a West Country lad I’m in Bristol myself
Do the adjusting knobs get in the way of your fingers when grabbing the handle. I like this one. Simple and easy and I'm gonna make it for my table saw :)
Hey, I can feel them with my fingers if I wrap my hand around the handle, but because you don't hold the handle as you would if you were carrying something, when using it to push some stock through the table saw it doesn't cause an issue at all
James, like you I thought the micro jig looked like a good product but was way overpriced. I followed your design more or less and built one and I think it will work out just fine. I heated the plexiglass with a heat gun and it was interesting to see how it would start to bend as it heated up. Thanks again for the video.
Hi Wayne, that's really great to hear you built one as well! I must admit, I thought after I heated up and bent the plexiglass that I had a heat gun also I could have used 🙄. Would be interesting to hear how you find it after a few months use. Thanks 👍
@@JamesManCave, the only issue I have had is that the grippy material on the bottom didn't hold up and I haven't found a better solution. Are you still using the same material?
It's a little late to be commenting on this video, but on the issue of using screws close to the blade - You could use brass or aluminum screws.
Hi, all mentioned before, my point is though, if you have your blade set correctly, and you have this push block set right there should be no possible way for the blade to hit any screws
I use a NASUM Dust Mask from Amazon, £15.99. It is pretty fooking awesome ;-)
Fantastic, will have a look! 👍
Don’t know if you have them in the U.K., but I highly recommend the Razor Mask.
Thanks, I'm sure good old amazon or eBay will have them. But I'll definitely check it out.
Also. theese masks are brilliant if you have a beard
I found the jsp force 8 to be a good face mask, best ive tried.. push to check filters sound like a gimmick but its such a quick way to make sure you get a good seal 👍
Thanks Paul, I have heard of them, certainly something else to consider. 👍
I cant fault them, think it was about £20 for the mask with filters in screwfix, only thing i found is it doesnt seal great if youve got a longish beard but what mask does 😅
@@paulphillips2941 very true, I like the idea of checking the filters. The usual one I use after about 5 min makes my jaw ache
I found that with my old ones, this one you barely feel ive worn it for hours at a time when grinding etc... screwfix code 1863F is the one even got £5 off at the min 👍
@@paulphillips2941 thank you! You are a star! Looks very good indeed
6:10, I would have used a hot air gun (paint stripping type) controlling the heat is much easier, using a flame is likely to burn or even blister the perspex.
Looks cool, watched to the end now, but you put screws in the handle. Tut tut, should have used dowels. 😉🙄😆😆😆😆😆
I did consider using my heat gun, but using the blow torch was much more fun and appealing! 🤣
I was thinking the exact same thing. 😢
I bought 2 Micro jigs on Amazon for $80.00 USA dollars. U can find them on sale and the jigs r good. U can rip small pieces with the micro jig. I like your idea, but it lacks the size of rips u can do with it.
Belo trabalho, parabéns 😊
Thank you 👍
Hello is there a pattern available
Amazon - Owfeel Silicone Half Face Dust Respirator Mask With Adjustable Strap, 20 Pcs Repaceable Filter Cotton is on my list to get ( so not used ) - recommended by another youtube channel
Excellent, thanks will add that to the list as well
I see you have a lot more blade protruding through the material than needed!!So you might have cut the screws in your old push block!!
Doyou still have template for the handle
there should be a link to it in the video description
I keep looking at the gvs elipse half mask respirator in screwfix, I'm very tempted.
Excellent, thanks for the info. I will take a look at that 👍
A good comfortable mask...and it will fit under most welding hoods.
Question for you, what was the thickness of your perspex?
I used 4mm perspex, but that's all I had to hand, not something I especially went out to buy
@@JamesManCave Thank you for the quick reply! I've got my handle "printing" right now.
@@starkey0417 Not a problem! Thats good to know, hopefully it turns out great 👍
you can send the plan of build it pleas??????????
They dimensions are mentioned in the the video, I used 12mm ply to build it
Size for push block please
It is mentioned in the video
We those ALDI forstner bits? I bought some recently and they’re total shite
No, they were a cheap set from Screwfix I bought about 6/7 years ago. Well used now and time to update them
Is there any drawings for the tool?
Not yet . . . . . .
@@JamesManCave it would be awesome if you can post or even sell the drawings for the tool
@@thedjkay it's something I keep meaning to sort out, I'll crack on with soon 👍
Good work, subscribed. This is a serious push block, and it came out well. If you want more subs, feel free to embed your video on our homemade tools forum; looks like you're one of us :-)
Hey, thanks very much, very much appreciated. I've not heard of your forum, but I shall definitely be heading over to it to check it out 👍
Why don't these how-to videos ever include dimensions? I sure would like to know how big each of the pieces are.
Rewatch the 15-second portion of the video starting at 1:30; he provides the dimensions.
Rewatch the video, he gives right in it, fool
Try RZ Mask.com
Thanks, it's been mentioned before, will check them out 👍
You have made a very good job of this but a couple of things that might help you with future projects..... T nuts are on the wrong side, they should be in the back of the piece as you would with a but and bolt, the way you have them they could pull out during tightening. Secondly heating acrylic is easily done in the oven....... Finally a groove and a slot are different, a groove has a bottom whereas a slot does not.
Can't do millimeters and don't want to learn
🤣🤣wood dont have corona virus, or are u alergic to wood?