Out of curiosity sellers here in the UK state that it has a quick change spring. Your doesn't appear to. Wonder if they have revised the design as of late
My SR25 is from Classic Army, the last one in stock with TaiwanGun a few months ago. It has been shooting well, but the rof and the response as such was rather poor, even with a proper 11.1V lipo. So, I mounted a brushless 47k motor from wargame-cn. The response and rof were incredible, as expected from this upgrade, but the gearbox became blocked after some test-shots. I guess that it was too much for this stock gearbox. I knew I had to open and tune it some day, so here it is. I had a previous incident of gearbox blockage before with the stock motor inside, but I could then mitigate the issue with a simple loosening-up and restoring of the motor tension, before the gearbox continued to work as well as before. But now, I have to really get cracking with this DMR. Until now, I only have had experience with my Cybergun SCAR-L, tuning the gearbox and piston. I hope that this SR25 is not that much more difficult.
Gearbox it self is a bit longer but moste components are like wise. Just give it a go, the motor u are using is definitely a over kill for dmr purpose. The more u work/tech on ure own gearboxes the more u get a hang on it. Installing a good mosfet is also preventing lock ups.
@@TheCobracan The new 47k wargame-cn motor may be an overkill indeed, but I felt that the Classic Army stock-motor was a bit too weak, as the response was rather slow. I will be able to judge this DMR much better, once I will find the time again to open it and see how the gearbox is inside, now that it is locked up somehow. Something similar happened to my SCAR-L too. That was then also the cue to open up things and tune it to the best of my knowledge. Afterwards, I kept the stock-motor of the SCAR. It is still doing a great job regarding fps and rof. Anyway, I still may consider to mount a stiffer spring into the SR25, if I decide to keep the new motor, so that the combination would be a better match, but that will be a series of tests, seeing how the gearbox is doing after some cleaning (will there be that thick grease inside that I found in the SCAR-L?) and shimming. First, I have to open up the SR25 without having some small components and springs flying around the room, after which I am left puzzling as how to reassemble it all. I felt the same fear just before I opened the SCAR-L for the first time. That horror when you hear some small screws falling from the inside to the table, or to the ground, whilst the outer receiver-parts are are still attached to each other...
@@Guido_XL just give it a try, u only learn when the first step is made. For dmr a 17+ tpa motor is enough it dousnt have to go over 4 rps in semi. Yes u wil find the Chinese grease inside the gearbox specially when igs already used for some time.
@@TheCobracan That same evening, I removed the spring and the pistol grip from the SR25. The piston was stuck half way its travel, so that the spring came out rather violently. When I tried to ply the spring in again, it was almost impossible to do. The bevel gear was also quite stuck to the touch. So, I manually put the motor pinion onto the bevel gear and pulled the trigger. I could hear how the sector gear responded and released tension on the piston. Now, I could reinstall the spring again, as the piston gave way comfortably. I took a steel meat pick (thin as a wooden tooth pick, but more robust) and felt the bevel gear: I could rotate it a bit, so as to feel the spring's tension responding. This seemed alright! And indeed, after having reassembled the pistol grip, everything was working fine again. I reinstalled the stock motor, as I do not trust the high-performance motor in this setup. Perhaps I can put it to good use, once I decide to install a stiffer spring, but I am not in a hurry. The gearbox may need some reshimming, as it is rather noisy, but for that, I am going to plan a proper time, so that there will be no pressure to finish right away.
@@Guido_XL the problem is, yes with the stock motor u could pretend some lockups. But with a good mosfet that has active brake u should easly use the upgrade motor
I was going to get one of these for an outdoor field to get better range and fire rate doesn’t much matter. So what does this shoot out of box and what should i change to get 400fps out of it? I’m new to modding so just lmk.
The version that are available here are 400 fps with 0.2 so the stock spring is enough. But the airseal is probably bad out of the box so when u are going to place upgrade u might need to downgrade the spring.
![[HOW TO] Krytac V2 Gearbox modifications for Perun V2 Hybrid Mosfet](/img/1.gif)
Out of curiosity sellers here in the UK state that it has a quick change spring. Your doesn't appear to. Wonder if they have revised the design as of late
I have one from 2019 manufacturing so could be yea that they changed the lot, but can’t say for sure in my area
@@TheCobracan understand. The 2024 model has a quick change spring. Making modification easier.
My SR25 is from Classic Army, the last one in stock with TaiwanGun a few months ago. It has been shooting well, but the rof and the response as such was rather poor, even with a proper 11.1V lipo. So, I mounted a brushless 47k motor from wargame-cn. The response and rof were incredible, as expected from this upgrade, but the gearbox became blocked after some test-shots. I guess that it was too much for this stock gearbox. I knew I had to open and tune it some day, so here it is.
I had a previous incident of gearbox blockage before with the stock motor inside, but I could then mitigate the issue with a simple loosening-up and restoring of the motor tension, before the gearbox continued to work as well as before. But now, I have to really get cracking with this DMR. Until now, I only have had experience with my Cybergun SCAR-L, tuning the gearbox and piston. I hope that this SR25 is not that much more difficult.
Gearbox it self is a bit longer but moste components are like wise.
Just give it a go, the motor u are using is definitely a over kill for dmr purpose.
The more u work/tech on ure own gearboxes the more u get a hang on it.
Installing a good mosfet is also preventing lock ups.
@@TheCobracan The new 47k wargame-cn motor may be an overkill indeed, but I felt that the Classic Army stock-motor was a bit too weak, as the response was rather slow. I will be able to judge this DMR much better, once I will find the time again to open it and see how the gearbox is inside, now that it is locked up somehow. Something similar happened to my SCAR-L too. That was then also the cue to open up things and tune it to the best of my knowledge. Afterwards, I kept the stock-motor of the SCAR. It is still doing a great job regarding fps and rof.
Anyway, I still may consider to mount a stiffer spring into the SR25, if I decide to keep the new motor, so that the combination would be a better match, but that will be a series of tests, seeing how the gearbox is doing after some cleaning (will there be that thick grease inside that I found in the SCAR-L?) and shimming.
First, I have to open up the SR25 without having some small components and springs flying around the room, after which I am left puzzling as how to reassemble it all. I felt the same fear just before I opened the SCAR-L for the first time. That horror when you hear some small screws falling from the inside to the table, or to the ground, whilst the outer receiver-parts are are still attached to each other...
@@Guido_XL
just give it a try, u only learn when the first step is made.
For dmr a 17+ tpa motor is enough it dousnt have to go over 4 rps in semi.
Yes u wil find the Chinese grease inside the gearbox specially when igs already used for some time.
@@TheCobracan That same evening, I removed the spring and the pistol grip from the SR25. The piston was stuck half way its travel, so that the spring came out rather violently. When I tried to ply the spring in again, it was almost impossible to do. The bevel gear was also quite stuck to the touch.
So, I manually put the motor pinion onto the bevel gear and pulled the trigger. I could hear how the sector gear responded and released tension on the piston. Now, I could reinstall the spring again, as the piston gave way comfortably. I took a steel meat pick (thin as a wooden tooth pick, but more robust) and felt the bevel gear: I could rotate it a bit, so as to feel the spring's tension responding. This seemed alright! And indeed, after having reassembled the pistol grip, everything was working fine again.
I reinstalled the stock motor, as I do not trust the high-performance motor in this setup. Perhaps I can put it to good use, once I decide to install a stiffer spring, but I am not in a hurry. The gearbox may need some reshimming, as it is rather noisy, but for that, I am going to plan a proper time, so that there will be no pressure to finish right away.
@@Guido_XL the problem is, yes with the stock motor u could pretend some lockups. But with a good mosfet that has active brake u should easly use the upgrade motor
So essentially it’s a v2 gearbox with a longer spring?
Cylinder is longer, spring is the same size as in a M4
Is cylinder head and piston head same lenght as in classic m4 v2 gearbox ?
Yes in A&K the piston en cylinder head are standard v2 spec
I was going to get one of these for an outdoor field to get better range and fire rate doesn’t much matter. So what does this shoot out of box and what should i change to get 400fps out of it? I’m new to modding so just lmk.
The version that are available here are 400 fps with 0.2 so the stock spring is enough.
But the airseal is probably bad out of the box so when u are going to place upgrade u might need to downgrade the spring.
Todos os internos dela é standard ou Você fez alguma modificação?
Look at the video 😉