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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
- A Real World project that uses an ESP32 in Deep Sleep
► PCBWay $5 for 10 pieces www.pcbway.com
More information and diagrams here:
github.com/RalphBacon/269-ESP...
Intro
I need to be able to detect when my workshop door has been opened - and STAYS open. And when it SHUTS again.
The ESP32 needs to communicate with my Smart Heater Controller to turn off the heater (if it's on) so I don't waste power trying to heat up the world if the door is open.
When the door closes it can then tell the Smart Heater Controller to go back doing whatever it was doing (heating, cooling) as though nothing had interrupted it.
And, of course, I need some means whereby the device tells me it's working (or has gone wrong).
So a low current ESP32 seems the way forward.
Links
► thingPulse low power Deep Sleep ESP32 WROVER module
thingpulse.com/product/epulse...
► Oregon Embedded Battery Life Calculator
oregonembedded.com/batterycalc...
► CoolTerm Serial Monitor (standalone freeware program)
freeware.the-meiers.org
► ESP32 Sleep Modes explained
lastminuteengineers.com/esp32...
► List of all my videos
(Special thanks to Michael Kurt Vogel for compiling this)
bit.ly/RUclipsVideoList-RalphB...
► If you like this video please give it a thumbs up, share it and if you're not already subscribed please consider doing so and joining me on my Arduinite (and other μControllers) journey
My channel, GitHub and blog are here:
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• / ralphbacon
• ralphbacon.blog
• github.com/RalphBacon
• buymeacoffee.com/ralphbacon
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My ABOUT page with email address: / ralphbacon 
Наука
I used your auto-on/off circuit on my mailbox and front gate and they have been working flawlessly for years now. The device on the gate uses its batteries up faster than the mailbox lid device. I used 3 AAA batteries for power and the mailbox device went for over 3 years before I replaced the batteries. Twice I have been alerted to someone tampering with my mail and mailbox and everyday I know exactly when the mail has arrived. Thanks Ralph!
Glad it worked for you, Cole PDX. I've used it (and variants of it) in a lot of my projects. As you say, it "just works".
I liked the idea to use those MP3 modules. I have used them in a wood box to my wife, when she opens it it plays a randomly selected Bible Psalm or Proverb, I figured out that this modules do not do a good random pick up and when it turns on it always starts whit the same track, so I use an Attiny85, to generate a real random number (with analogRead) to generate a seed. It works perfectly, I even added an OLED display to show what's playing.
Yes, I used this device for my previous cat's outdoor run, so we would know whether it was raining or not. Worked like a dream. But the MP3 device needs to be used with a μController really, for the reason you state plus just not having to use any buttons.
I've used your power latch circuit for many projects, it works very well. You can even trigger the latch using an accelerometer like the ADXL345, which can trigger an interrupt on movement, the possibilities are endless. Thanks for sharing
Excellent! Just exactly what I had hoped people would do, take the circuit and run whatever project. 👍
If you're going to power it from an 18650 then you're still going to need a low drop out voltage regulator to provide the 3.3v to the esp32 (a fully charged 18650 at 4.2v will still fry your esp32). I would recommend the MCP1700-33. I use these on all my 18650-powered arduino / esp projects and they only sip micro-amps...
On the ePulse Feather there is a connection for a battery, so I can connect the VCC to it too (instead of) I guess. Needs a bit of checking out.
@@RalphBacon Ah yes - I just looked at that ePulse Feather board - nice board. On-board TP4056 and also an onboard XC6220B33 LDO. The only potential problem I see is that they haven't included any over-discharge protection - they assume this is part of the 18650 battery (which isn't always the case). It would have been nice if they had included a DW01 - but apart from that a nice, interesting looking board.👍
While watching I was thinking this sure is over engineered and then Ralph says "Over engineering at its best". Just had to laugh.
A bit of fun in our hobby is never wasted!
Well Done Ralph! Another good project with super description and reasoning along with materials to DIY. Your projects are so often timely to things I am doing it's erie. Delving into sleep modes and power saving currently myself, and found your execution helpful in understanding aspects of deep sleep. One lesson I've learned regarding buzzers and even LEDS in using them as some sort of warning or status marker; is that they all CAN be annoying after repetition or incorrect placement. A real conundrum to find a way of being alerted without being annoyed. :)
I guess it's a fine balance between silent, information messages (whether using an LED, message or email) and a loud, attend-to-this-right-now type of message. I'm hoping to get it right this time but I will create an HTML interface so I can switch off the aural part of the message!
Just the power-on power-off little board got me thinking that it could be put in an automotive project like in a car or truck and that would not drain your battery... nice...Thank you !!! Always interesting.
Glad it's got you thinking, Pierre!
I highly recommend the Nordic Semiconductor Power Profiler Kit 2 for a cheap alternative for a embedded system targeted source-measure unit (SMU). In these low power applications where the actual current draw can be measured and plotted with exceptional accuracy for the price, the PPK2 is perfect. I was able to find some issues where I was trying to control power with a p-channel MOSFET, I mistakenly put the transistor on the wrong side of a regulator and was unable to fully shut off the FET because the clamping diodes within the ESP32. When my battery was fully charged the difference between 3.3v and 4.2v was enough to forward bias the protection diode till the battery voltage was low enough to prevent the leakage. Using a SMU I was able to fine tune my circuits to get far better deep sleep current by identifying parasitic current draws during deep sleep in peripheral circuits.
Yes, I had this issue with one of my designs. It was effectively a resistor divider network that was "always on". By moving stuff around I could save lots of power.
@@RalphBacon If you don't have a PPK2 as I mentioned it would be a great video topic. Not only are they cheap ~$100US, but the usefulness in embedded systems is limitless. I know everyone isn't making battery powered projects but they can also help gauge the real-work power requirements of a design, a blinky light isn't going to have the same power requirement as a 24bit I2S internet radio. It's an unbelievable deal honestly, it can be a power supply for custom circuits and fast enough to catch WiFi transients. I'm not affiliated with them it's just that damn good!
Hi Ralph, just a few considerations I have when trying to get the most from powering projects with batteries is that your available working voltage of an 18650 cell, for example, is between 2.8V and 4.2 V (fully charged) so this reduces the time duration that'll you'll get on battery. I recommend using a BMS circuit like the cheap and cheerful TP4056 module (specifically the one which has battery protection on- board) just to keep the Li-ion cells happy.
We think alike, Tony. I used the 18650 plus TP4056 in my storage bin lid reminder project (somewhere here in YT). Works well, and as you say, includes a charging circuit.
Another great video Ralph! I've been thinking about a new project that would've required adding mains wiring in my garage. But you may have just added the spark that I needed to do it with batteries. I'll need to deep sleep on this.
Ho, ho, it's the way you tell 'em, Mark. But I'm glad it might have got you thinking about this!
Very nice project sir
Thank you, glad you liked it. All a bit of fun!
For sounds you can even use the beeper driven by PWM, actually you can get a decent sound/melody
Yes, been there, done that, bored with the limitations now. But you are correct, you can make a decent enough melody that way.
The most of the power in deep sleep is consumed by the LDO The LDO that board use is AMS 1117, this one has an stand by current at 2mA. So if you want to save power that one is not good. There are others with less power consumption, about 1000 times less, about 2uA. Project your own pcb with a bare esp32 chip, let say ESP32-WROOM-32, one LDO (this could be 7333a, or MCP1700-33, or the best one, the one that dfrobot use it: rt9080-33gj5 ) and capacitors for the LDO you chose, one resistor to ENABLE, and connectors for power, for programming, also for your sensor. I have one circuit with ESP32-WROOM-32, 7333a LDO, one bme280 powered from one li-po 18650 cell. That circuit send data to adafruit io for more than a year without a charge. Sorry for my English's!
Standard boards certainly waste power this way, true. The ePulse Feather specifically avoids powering the LDO if running off battery power though.
Yet another great video. I am interested in the use of that SI4599 board. Also, since you are using ESPNOW you could use the ESPNOW receiver to play the tune, thus saving the battery.
That's a good idea, using the _receiver_ to play the sound. Not only do I get confirmation of the door being opened/closed but also that the message was successfully received. Nice one!
Hey Ralph S Bacon,
I really enjoy your content and the way you explain complex topics. I suggest a video idea for you. How about creating a video on programming the ATtiny1617 or ATtiny3217 using an Arduino Uno or Arduino Nano as a UPDI programmer? It would be great to see you dive into the details, show us how to utilize the Arduino for programming and explore all the exciting features these microcontrollers offer. Keep up the fantastic work!
I hope you'll reply
Best regards,
I'll put it on the list but first I must check out what those two microcontrollers you mention are capable of!
Thank you, very good video,
I've done something like that for a wardrobe door.
with a "normal" esp32 dev board, the minimum current i could achieve in deep sleep mode, was in the order of mA, even removing the LED.
In my case it was not critical, because the door remained open for short periods of time.
I send the notifications using wifi, in the notification includes the battery voltage. the voltage measurement circuit is only connected when I measure the voltage, after each measurement i disconnect it.
No "normal" ESP32 (other other) dev board is designed for Deep Sleep usage.
The thingPulse feather device I'm using has been designed so that all the external stuff (LDO, USB chip etc) is NOT powered up by the input voltage, only when it is powered via the USB. Makes sense, really.
Thanks for the video. A good idea to save current. Is the N channel FET connected the right way?
No, the N-channel FET is upside down (blame the CAD program I was using... what, you mean it's _my fault_ ?) I will be progressing this project soon.
I reckon that with a little bit work( yep😅) we could use the epulse feather schematics and add the two mosfets, mini mp3 player board and amp…. And make this lil beast with a couple of optional in’s/outs. 😊 OK ✅ I’ll get to it😊!
Ha, ha! When you have it finished don't forget to send me one. Hello? Hello? Now where have you disappeared to 🤷♂️
yay
Yaaay! I hope you "liked" 👍the video!
Thank you for this excellent video! Rather than the reed switch, can the ESP32 be brought out of deep sleep by the built in Hall effect sensor? I have been experimenting with this and have been unable to find a way without additional components or using the timer to wake up and check the sensor state. Do you or your subscribers have any insights on using the built in Hall effect sensor to wake the unit from deep sleep? It annoys me that if the built in Hall effect sensor COULD do this, I would need only a small neodymium magnet near my ESP32 to detect the state of the door and could avoid the much larger reed switch.
Yes, I had considered this too but was in a bit of a hurry to complete the proof of concept.
I have not used the Hall Effect switch on the ESP32 at all, and certainly don't know whether it can bring the ESP32 out of Deep Sleep. If I experiment with this I will update the video comments.
Surely the sound you need is an old shop bell?
That could be one of the sounds I use. Open All Hours, I'm sure. (If you are not UK-based you won't get that).
Hi Ralph.. thanks for the video! OH, as a suggestion for a future project, how about connecting a HC-SR04 ultra sonic distance sensor to a ESP8266, I believe you did one sometime back with an Arduino, but the real challenge is with the ESP8266. Good Luck! Now that would be a GREAT video
I'm bemused by the fact that it is somehow more of a challenge connecting up a range connector to an ESP8266 rather than an Arduino?
@@RalphBacon I have attempted to add the HC-SR04 or the JSN-SR04 Ultrasonic (water proof) sensors to the ESP32, ESP8266 with no luck as it keeps telling me that the libraries are not compatible with either of the sensor types. Tried all the libraries that I could find.
Are the sensors not just standard 40KHz transducers? Knock up a quick Arduino sketch and test them out. Then transfer the sketch to the ESP8266 - unless the library you are using is fiddling with registers to get the timing right, in which they won't work. But there must be some libraries out there for ESP8266/ESP32 that just use a standard PWM pin for the transducer signal?
@@RalphBacon Thanks, will give it a try
Hi Ralph been watching your videos for a while now and they're fantastic.
I've been an electronics hobbyist/ enthusiasts for some years now and thinking of starting my own channel.
Would you mind sharing with us your setup: what cameras, lighting, software and tools you use?
If you don't already have a setup, then my suggestion is to avoid watching umpteen RUclips videos on other channels' equipment. How anyone with a new channel can afford thousands of pounds on equipment that may never return anything, I just don't understand. Even now I don't understand it. Or have such equipment.
I started off with a simple digital camera (sorry, can't remember the brand, not relevant these days) that could shoot video at HD on an SD card. It probably cost me (I had it lying around) about £60 back then.
My microphone was NOT the ubiquitous Blue Yeti (overpriced if ever I saw one, although it sounds OK) and chose an Anua microphone that (to me) sounds even better (more natural, but you can judge that just by listening to my videos). Prior to that I used some cheap headset microphone that sounded as though I was a captain on a plane (watch any of my early videos, #2 to #20). 🤦Over and out!
If you record onto SD card in a self contained camera then that's all you need, but if your camera has a clean (no battery levels etc) HDMI output, then you can use that to input into OBS (Open Broadcast System - which every RUclipsr uses, as it's free and is quite good and gets updated now and then).
I don't have any lights to speak of (once again, spending money on something that has marginal payback just doesn't make sense) just the ones in my workshop. If you really need more lighting, use an old Anglepoise-type lamp for now.
Once your channel actually starts making money you can decide whether you want to put that money into yet more equipment. I'd love a 4K video camera but have you seen the prices?!? How can I justify that? How is it going to be "better" than what I have?
Editing programs are manyfold and I started off using a £25 version that was fine but eventually drove me up the wall because transitions between scenes was too slow. Now I pay a bit more but don't use Adobe Premiere either!
Frankly, it was a minefield, but I'd recommend you spend as little as you can on stuff that does the job - for now. We'd all like that £1,500 4K Sony camera, a £200 microphone and a £1,000 lighting rig just for starters but you have to take a step back and think how any of this is going to get you your 10,000+ subscribers and some cash! Of course, once you DO start making money, you can spend big bucks on whatever you want.
Good luck! 👍
@@RalphBacon Thanks for the honest and in-depth advice. Very much appreciate it. Just turned the big 50 but have had the electronics and computing in my blood since mid 1980s so I can completely agree with the points in your reply😊
The kids are all grown up now so I can settle down to what I enjoy.
My requirements are inline with what you are doing - albeit it will be part of a bedroom setup. I could never afford at this moment the fancy equipment many of the youngster creators use nowadays.
I think I will need one camera for the main shot and another (ideally autofocus and zoomable via a remote (for the closeups) of breadboard and other small circuitry.
I have messed around with OBS before so let see how things pan out.
Thanks Ralph, great video.
I like your breadboard, where do you get it from?
Breadboard (two of them, joined together) is from Cool Components: bit.ly/3O6P3fS
Thanks for the video and the explanations. I disagree with the "random sound" idea. Imagine, if you will, your car picked a random sound for everything: turn signals, key left in ignition, etc. It would be so confusing. You would hear a sound, and then have to look around to discover what was going wrong. Pick an "easy-on-the-ears" sound, and run with that. If you discover you don't like that sound, then an OTA update would easily fix that problem - especially if you load up that SD card with a bunch of different sounds you could choose from. Again, thanks for all you do!
The difference between a car and my door, is that the car could be telling you lots of different things, depending on what the "fault" is. With me, it's just the door opening / closing plus the "I'm still running when I should be switched off" scenario.
I'd get too bored with the same old sound each time.
A little off topic, but how are the power connections to your breadboard binding posts made? I've been looking for a better way to distribute power and would appreciate a detailed picture or text description. Thx!
The binding posts have two breadboard holes associated with them that you can then link to the main power rails on the breadboard if you wish. See the close up photos here: bit.ly/3Iba5WI
@@RalphBacon Very nice! It's good to see somebody thought about this rather than stamping out an other cheap copy. Thank you!
Maybe instead of a standalone MP3 player module, a max98357 I2S audio amp... and have the audio directly on the ESP32? Not as "simple" as a DFRobot MP3 player, but more integrated for sure ;) Very interesting looking project, be interesting to see how it goes! :)
Yes, that would be good, Peter, if only I could actually generate proper sounds using I2S. Not quite so simple (for me, anyway).
But the advantage of using an MP3 player (with built in SD card) is that I can play _any sound_ that is on the card, including voices.
We shall see how it turns out in due course.
Ralph, briliant stuff. You made my day. Can you help me with some understanding? What voltage (5V or 3.3V) do you run this on (I remember you said in video #123, it should not work with a MOSFET on less thean 5V) and where / what pin do you feed the power into the ESP32 or via USB? Great stuff you do, go on, great inspiration! Thanks in advance
It would also be great to learn more from you on how to determine the relevant resistor values.
The ESP32 is a 3v3 device but the modules have a 5v to 3v3 voltage regulator included so it will run off the standard 5v USB wall wart.
Or you can provide 5v to the pin marked 5v (I've only come across one ESP32 module that did not have one) or you can provide 3v3 to the pin marked 3v3.
If you are supplying 5v to the 5v pin then it goes via the onboard voltage regulator - but that will not be as efficient as using a 3v3 supply directly when sleeping. It might not matter that much, current-wise. I've got a couple of modules that only take 15μA when sleeping. No LEDs lit up, of course.
Just make sure if you do either of these then you are 100% certain that you only have a 5v (or 3v3) supply or your ESP32 will be toast!
Thanks mate! And go in with your brilliant work. Like youR content big times and it gave me lots of input to some projects of mine.
I do have a different approach to this. I let a guy that makes ewe-toob videos do the hard work. I really like your channel. I believe I have watched them all at least once.
Not hard work, fun! Well, OK some hard thinking but still something I like doing, in the same way some people like gardening (does not compute). Now you can watch all my videos again, Kent, for being cheeky!
mp3 player + esp listening for the espnow door open signal = shed alarm. add an internal pir/doppler sensor maybe 2 to prevent false triggers, 3d print the horn for the speaker so its louder.....I wouldnt use an alarm sound as the first mp3 but just an 'hello'... 15 second delay the 'i've called the police at this time of night they wont be long'.....
Hmm, interesting. Different sounds depending on what time of day it is. Easily done with an ESP32, of course. Thanks, Lez.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Glad to see your Internet connection is good this week, Yogesh!
@@RalphBacon 😀😀😀😀😀
great circuit & code. Instead of an audio alert for errors, why not get it to post a message to your led status board? - You get more information that way with an existing interface.
That would have been a great idea if I still had my LED status board (you mean the circular LEDs, 3 rings?). More on that in a future video.
I like esp32 projects, they can do so much. 🥳 Ralph, do you have an Orange Pi5 Python GPIO PWM example? I can get the OPi.GPIO on/off to work. However, the PWM setup is still a mystery? I am not sure if I have asked this question before? The Raspberry Pi GPIO PWM SBCs just work and they have all the real information. The OPi5 can run OpenCV great, just cannot get the PWM Pan/Tilt to work? Thank you.
The new rock based boards are awesome ehh. I don't know why the rpif is sitting on their hands creating artificial scarcity. In Canada a 4gb pi4b is the better part of 300. It's cheaper to buy a pi400 and print an enclosure and overclock it. The jetson xavier pascal and Volta based boards can be found at great prices now too because they stopped making the maxwell based board that the jetson, shield and Nintendo switch use. Nintendo had to uses fidelity fx to get Zelda to run better...on nvidia hardware lol. I get it's open source but Jensen doesn't like it I bet hahaha.
I've never seen Ralph do sbc projects and I've watched his channel for like 7 years. He likes playing pcbway against jlcpcb if you've noticed haha
I was just thinking. You could use one of those pca servo boards I bet or you could bit bang the pwm.
No experience of the Orange Pi5, I'm afraid. I did have a very early model Orange (and Banana too) but then went with a proper RasPi.
@@RalphBacon Thank you.
@@jstro-hobbytech I am slowly getting things to work on the OPi5. OpenCV works very fast on the Orange Pi5. OpenCV Haar_Face OPi5 (22-FPS) or RPi4(5-FPS) Just need to figure out the PWM Pan/Tilt? Thank you.
Excellent video as always :) Will you be posting the code onto the Github project (pretty) please?
Yes, yes. Once the project is beyond proof-of-concept stage I'll be sharing it all.
Hi, I love your videos, perfect teacher, but when not in your class I cant raise my hand :-) Please explain line 21-23-25, I don't get it... (case and switch). Is log-v a macro to enable/disable Serial.print?
Yes, you at the back, what's your question? Switch/Case? It's just a nice "IF" style construct. Instead of multiple, nested (and unmaintainable) if else... if else... statements we just use ONE switch case to inspect a (numeric) variable, then have a CASE statement for each matching condition.
log_v is an ESP32 logging macro that only logs if the build debug level is set to VERBOSE (v). There's a version for d (Debug), i (Info) w (warning) and e (error) too. Try it out, very useful.
@@RalphBacon Thanks for giving me answer. The "case" way I now get, I now use it to se esp wake up reason.
Hey Ralph,
can you do a video using an ESP32 and a PT100 without using any kind of extra Hardware (Converter etc.) to measure the temperature? There is a lack of content on RUclips based on this topic.
I did some videos a long time back involving thermocouples but I'm pretty sure no Platinum was involved - although the principle in using a PT100-compliant sensor should be very similar.
I would try reading the voltage from an analog port that goes via the PT100 sensor to see whether you can accurately get a reading.
magnet with reed switch keeping a p-mosfet open and the esp32 unpowered until it's time to do something
That's about the gist of it. And also keeping it alive so that it can wake up again when I flip the switch back to the "resting" state.
Just a thought. Why use an 18650? I recover the batteries from these vaping thingymajigs. People throw them away so they are FREE!. Add a charging board, cheap as chips, and the bonus. They are 1500mAh batteries! I must find one of those mosfet boards.
We don't have those in Canada. So I buy 18650s at the dollar store. They usually have 2200mah a piece and like you I save the board and harvest the ic if needed for a project. Broken video game controllers and old drone batteries are good too. I fix that stuff for friends though so they give me that stuff. Ralph should solar panel his roof. He strikes me as the type who doesn't swing a hammer though lol
@Joey you would be wrong there, DIY is my next favourite pastime! From installing my own central heating (apart from the actual boiler [furnace] which we are not legally allowed to touch) I do all my own DIY.
@@RalphBacon I know that ya nut hahaha I was kidding to get a rise outta ya my friend. You know I enjoy tormenting you. I'm told I do it to people I like, a trait inherited from my father I'm told haha.
@@RalphBacon my last house I added a few hundred pounds of weight to with just nails. A nasty side effect of over investment. I did learn alot though
I'll consider myself tormented, Joey!
Why not use AA alkaline batteries instead of a rechargeable battery?
BTW, a hobby project can't be over engineered.
My smartphone is over engineered a lot.
I'm with you on the "can never be over-engineered" 😉
I could have used 3xAA batteries as they will work just fine for an Arduino when in Deep Sleep. Also OK for an ESP32 if you have a specifically designed low power consumption board (when in Deep Sleep). But a 18650 will last a lot longer for the latter.
Nice video, but I think the N-channel mosfet is upside down in the schematic.
Upside down or back to front? Or is the arrow the wrong way (should be going IN to the device, for an N-channel MOSFET).
@@RalphBacon I mean upside down. In the drawing you have the source of the N-channel connected to the gate of the P-channel, so the N-channel body diode conducts to ground, which would mean the P-channel is always on. The N-channel drain should be on top, with the source connected to ground, and the body diode blocking any current if the N-channel is off. I assume the actual circuit is not the same as the drawing.
The circuit is, in that case, wrong. The source of the N-channel definitely goes to GND, the Drain goes to the Gate of the P-channel. I think the part I chose in the CAD program was printed like that (ie the wrong way round) and I didn't notice. Doh!
deep sleep and interrupt handling - will see if i was right ;d
whoa so no interrups, amazing!
Well, the ESP32 device is brought out of Deep Sleep by an interrupt (GPIO pin going low) but that's probably not what you mean by "interrupt" here, right?
@@RalphBacon indeed, i was rather thinking about some hardware IRQ/NMI trigger which will awaken device out of deep sleep.
That's why i watch wiser ones than myself - every time i'll learn something new by prooving myself wrong ;p
Why not have voice messages instead of bongs, e.g. saying "door open" or "close that door, were you born in a barn!" Possibilities are end less.
Great idea. I can include those as part of the repertoire of sounds! Thanks, Mike.
So, the net result is the occupant will be exposed to WiFi smog and will develop unnecessary sicknesses. Covid was one such thing, Ralf.
So COVID was the result of Wi-Fi, and not a virus? Who would have thought 🤷♂️