'AM I A CHAP?' - GENTLEMAN'S STYLE ASSESSMENTS - OVERCOAT EDITION
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- In this video your host will provide a style assessment a viewer/s, who have provided images of their habitual attire for this purpose.
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Very Dapper. Such a shame more people don't strive for such excellence.
I’m aghast at myself for neglecting the opportunity for a pocket square on my overcoat. You learn something new every day.
Good morning all.
Good morning!
Good morning, Antony!
Morning!
First and foremost: I feel honoured both by the feature and by the comments!😳 Thank you.
The of course we have the fact that I *was* going a bit for the "over the top villain" look in the final ensemble - and who's up next? Figures!🤣
Mr. Bond's coat here is stunning! I didn't expect him to dress well, I expected him to die! (pathetically paraphrasing Auric Goldfinger here...) It's something I don't have and probably should, especially with the covered buttons, makes it impossible for anything to get caught (remember that I carry an attaché case / formal teacher's bag hybrid with me when I'm commuting to work and I tend to strap it over my shoulder because, guess how many hands you have free to carry anything with a cane and a bag? Right, none...or less after early morning sopping 😅) *and* you could get away with cheaper buttons (not that you should, quality buttons are cheap and sewing them on is a half-hour thing at most) because they are covered.
I also love the structured charcoal grey in a large-ish Herringbone pattern with the rich deep black velvet collar! Looks so incredibly elegant!
And the breast pocket on the coat is so awesome with the colour coordinated Winchester shirt!
Winchester shirts in general are awesome... even if they where originally intended to save washing time, cost and effort😆.
And the mid-height Coke hat is stunning - I only have (a ton of... and none worn in this feature, now that I think of it it's kind of a shame.. oh well) a "continental" high crowned black bowler and..two or three (I have a ton of hats...), black "English type" patterned, lower crowned ones (see Mr. Jones's one for a beautiful example) - with a not overly formed (not that that's not beautiful as well) brim trimmed with velvet (?) - loverly!
As to my ensembles - the red in the greatcoat is a bit of a historian's in-joke - I ordered it with red lapels because that's kind of a great war German general staff thing (but then, so are red lined trousers).
And then left off all the military connected elements because a) it *will* be mistaken for a WW2 uniform coat then and b) I didn't serve (in the military that is, I *did* my service), so it would look presumptuous and with all the military-derived elements of my ensembles I strife to make them the most civilian possible so as not to come across as a fake, even implied.
This also goes for the blue coat in the fist photo - it's an *actual* German Air-Force paletot of which I removed most of the military elements including epaulettes so as to wear it as a civilian - I know, I know, double breasted coats in general are military-style derived...
And while we at military derived coats - the trench-coat is a "pre-mid 90s change" one, it's still Burberry *'s* and maintains the cut of the Great War original (huge, fits over a M1907 full uniform in foul weather😉) instead of the more "band conscious" shorter and more fitting trench coats of the post 90s.
Inherited it from my late father who bought it in '88 and it's such a solid item.. all I ever had to do was renew the leather coated buckles... that aside it's good as new and looks the part.
And that's after 13 years of my dad wearing it with another 22 years of me.
*Exceedingly solid* item - pure *classical* quality and in civilian use since the end of the Great War - heck just yesterday a young chap told me how he admired my "80s-style" - I was a bit taken aback (but thankful) and inquired just what in my interbellum inspired outfit make him think "80s New York" - it was the combination of double breasted suit and trench-coat, like a chubby Gordon Gecko 🤣!
Oh - and the faux-fur collar is a Polish super high quality item, feels and looks like real fur (a comparison test feel caused a "purrpurrpurr" reaction🤣) instead of the crappy faux-fur you occasionally get on winter jacket hoods.
I think that's it.. oh the Oxblood double monk-straps are only on minor gloss because this is right in front of the Workshop - yes I dress dapper going to work but the shoes will inevitably catch *something* in the workshop so I leave them easily re-finish-able.
Can't cover the shoes with a shoemakers apron😆.
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Simply superb sir!
@@michaelmclaughlin7328 Many thanks sir!
**clicksheels** 😉
(I *actually* do this as a greeting with a tiny bow, especially got used to it in the pandemic conditions when hand-shaking was mauvaise conduite )
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Good point on the covered buttons and bag straps. I'll keep that in mind.
Really love the waxed mustache and the walking stick well done sir. Cheers Ron
@@ronaldpoppe3774 Thank you!
As I said, the walking cane is a costumed crutch in a way, I need it but it's not obvious and the other option would have been a "House MD"-style crutch...
Of course I decided on the dapper option😆.
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
I love the first image - I’ve been wearing a suit, hat and cane for years now, and rarely have seen another gentleman rocking this look. I think it’s a very elegant look from a bygone era, but it stands out. The number of comments from people who have stopped me, mostly women, bemoaning the fact that men don’t dress this way anymore. I doff my hat to this gentleman.
A kindred spirit.
I, too, wear a suit, hat, and cane! Well, the hat is obligatory, and the suit is only most of the time (some social occasions call for a blazer or even a cardigan, and it's rather tough to wear a suit while swordfencing or playing pickleball), but the cane is only for when I'm strolling about. I have two canes: a black wood one with a gold handle and a toucan-shaped, wooden cane from Costa Rica.
And, yes, I can absolutely agree that many women will bemoan the lack of men's style today - and many men will compliment the "fits." The gains vastly overwhelm the negatives. For those who think they can't pull it off but like the look, I'm 23 and live in the conformist, hyper-casual Midwest suburbs - so no excuses!
@The Modern Dandy My good sir, I see we are of like minds. I agree - hat always, though sometimes I wear a flatcap, and the can is brilliant for strolling about. I have seven canes, beautifully carved, and they are the jewel of my outfits. I'm impressed that you have the confidence to wear these items at a young age - hats off to you sir!
"The gains vastly overwhelm the negatives." well said Dandy, well said!
I live in a more urbane and altogether more dapper area (the skyscrapers of Frankfurt, banking capital of continental Europe, visible in the distance) altogether, but it's still mostly only two piece suits in Navy or Black with boring regimental-type ties, so I still tend to stand out - but it's true, no one ever commented negatively on my mode of dress, all positive comments right down to the profoundly gaudy dressed "cool" youths (I'm working right next to a school... and actually live next to another...).
(Also our older lady customers especially love my "old style elegance" with the suit under the shoemaker's apron... all (un-)intentional marketing 😉)
And hat's are just... oh I don't know... nice? *Useful?* I've been wearing hats for the past 20+ years, since the late school days and without I feel incomplete.
I haven't been using canes for the most time, but as a late consequence of being squished by a lorry on a zebra crossing a couple of years back my sense of balance is, well not truly damaged, but suspect to dizzy moments so given the choice between "House M.D." style canes and proper dapper ones.. well not much of a decision really🤣.
Yours sound cool! I have five canes but I mostly only use the "Fritz-gripped" (as in "Old Fritz" - Frederick II, King of Prussia) rose-wood one and a black hardwood "eldritch-prezel"-gripped one (you see in most photos I think). Of course as a substantial ailurophile I have a cat headed one, but it's not the most comfy to grip without gloves.
Oh and Modern Dandy: you fence? Modern style Épeé or something more along the lines of HEMA? I personally have too little time currently to further the matters, but I have a certain level of competence in Lichtenauer style Longsword.
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
@Raoul G. Kunz Sir, I am delighted by your reply. When I saw your outfits it inspired me to continue with how I dress. I live in Adelaide, South Australia, and most men dress in boring two-piece suits for work. So a tweed three-piece suit, hat and cane stands out a bit. It makes me doubt sometimes whether I should dress this way. Seeing your video reaffirmed my confidence to dress for myself because I love it and it makes me feel fantastic. So thankyou.
I like your hats by the way. I have a collection ranging from flatcaps and berets up to tophats. Oh and I too have grown a full beard, and for the last year a handlebar moustache- I think it completes the look. I was blown away by the response to the moustache, people love it.
Now, canes. I got mine from a couple of craftsmen from Ukraine, and they are superb - beautifully carved from hardwood, nice handles, whatever length you need. I did notice the way you were gripping the cat cane and wondered if it was uncomfortable. Have you tried a derby-style handle?
Thankyou again for re-inspiring me and your kind words. You are a true gentleman.
Two very smart gents, both deserving of full marks for their attire and attention to detail.
Dear Ash, I so enjoyed the show as I always do. Thank you for featuring me as part of today's presentation. I am very honored to have been a part of your talk. The first gentleman looks absolutely fantastic! I continue to tell my friends about your show and the good work you are doing. God bless you!
My absolute pleasure sir.
Wow, the overcoat in that last outfit is absolutely beautiful!
I agree lovely over coat
Both gentleman understand and practice one very important fundamental belief. That is the devil is in the details. The pocket square in the overcoat is elegant and refined. The unlined leather gloves with the cuffs turned down by one fold is timeless. All perceived eccentricities aside, both men are rocking it to the fullest. That’s how one get to “chap nirvana”.
Thanks, I'm honoured!
Eccentricities are fun if you keep them in line to a degree... not "in line", but "tasteful", maybe a better phrasing.
Think "Sprezzatura" just a bit more conscious of the historical.
That's one € into the "don't be pretentious" jar...🤣
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
I bought my first tweed overcoat 50 years ago when I was 16, at the same time as I had my first bespoke suit made, single breasted 3 piece grey chalkstripe.
I love my overcoat! It's a wool one from Topman and it's the colour they call burnt orange. It's really a warm cinnamon brown. I spent a lot of money on it by my standards ($200 Canadian) and I try to find any excuse to wear it. I love wearing it with an icy blue tweed blazer, various coloured chinos, converse all-stars in grey leather or blue canvas and I typically wear different patterned dress shirts (ones people would probably describe as eccentric). I tend to be in very informal situations in my line of work (content creation and a photographer) so I'm usually the best dressed individual. I also always wear a watch of some type with my favourites being my Reverie Diver with 12-hour bezel and red dial, my Lorier Safari with salmon pink dial and thermal blued hands on a brown leather band (can't find a good grey one) or my Seiko SUP880 (it's a Cartier Tank homage - and I find the overcoat typically brings all of this together. I also sometimes wear a flat cap with this.
Also, Ash, here's a topic I'd love to see you cover some day. Pins. I often wear them where other men would wear a buttoniere (spelling?) - the ones I typically wear are related to the video games I make content around, when I'm out and about, people always compliment me on them.
I’m glad you featured more than one ‘below the knee’ overcoat. I recently got a Harris Tweed overcoat and although I wanted it to be below the knee, since any higher just doesn’t protect enough of the trousers from the rain, at first it felt a bit too long. My wife said it looked great so I recon it was just the fact that I haven’t had an overcoat for some time. I love it now with its green lining which goes well with the brown/oatmeal/green Harris Tweed. I had a more modern style overcoat years ago which was just to the knee and it was so annoying and uncomfortable when the rain soaked my trousers.
This has been another great and inspiring video, so thank you, Ash. Stay dapper 😁👍.
Ash, Sir I enjoy your videos so much and watch at less one or more every day. As style returns and I believe it is. I am glad to see that maybe
the walking stick will also. I also ware a pocket square on my smoking jacket that I still ware but have not smoked in 14 years.
Sir Raoul wearing his coat as a cape. Elegance. Capes and cloaks (pelerines also) sadly don't exist anymore. Maybe one should try to make one.
And that original Burberry trench!!!! My dream!
How about a top hat and monocle glasses that would fit great!
Well, I *do* have both a monocle (with optical power, not wearing these glasses just for style🧐) and several top-hats but as I said: I'm at work here in the dapper-most photo - it is easily possible to make my outfits into Edwardian costumes with these additions, and I *do* it on the Carnival days (though by now no one comments this any-more, 'sppose the people who see me every morning anyway think it's probably just normal me anyway...🎩🧤) plus Newsboy Cap, the Trilby, the Fedora, the Bowler and even the Homburg make just better everyday hats.
As for the Burberry - look for older ones on ebay - they are very hard to break, easy to repair if and especially the older ones, like my inherited one, come competitively cheap (like 10-20% of the four digit new price) - heck I almost bought a black one for 250€ - In the end I felt that I just don't like black all that much in my coats, it has too much of a "late teen, school boy wants to be cool" - vibe, but that`'s just me biographical... I still *have* a single breasted black coat from this time... but the key here is that it wouldn't have broken the bank and it was even available in my size (as in "chubby *and* tall, the curse of all ready-to-wear sizing) - so keep an eye out!
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Goodness, Raoul! (I hope my spelling is correct.) Do you have an Instagram? You are truly a dandy par excellence. I would say that we share certain style agreements that are hard to come by. A hat, especially a fedora - a must for being in public. Double-breasted suits - an excellent style detail, though I prefer the three-piece. The fur collar - a truly stunning detail, though I prefer thrifted fur over faux. We can agree on avoiding buying fur new. A cane - an excellent choice for strolling. The only two details we don't share are the Regency cravats and your wicked-cool mustache.
I think we both have found something quite pleasurable in life: that it doesn't pay to fuss over fitting in and normalcy. What truly pays is unwavering individuality and the ability to enjoy life as we see fit. Few get it, but those who do are some of the most fulfilled people on the planet.
A kindred spirit indeed.
Thanks Dandy! (correct spelling by the way)
No Instagram, I'm not doing enough "new" ensembles to warrant this, I just drop the occasional volley onto Mr. Jones😅 here.
Though I have two more made-to-measure suits coming in, one in structured charcoal grey (because I don't have enough of *those* ...) and one in chino-cotton without any lining as a summer suit.
...I'm a clothes horse...😇
If I remember correctly you are in quite a good shape, so no, no double breasted suit needed, since it has the (ironic) effect of, if well fitted, actually slimming the silhouette a bit.
Thanks for the moustache compliment - it's also a bit of a crutch for the mornings I feel too tired to invest much energy into looks (I get up around ~5) - I *need* to style it, otherwise it's huge, in the way and altogether annoying and once I'm waxing the 'stache I'm more awake and motivated, with all the nicely fragrant oils in the nose for a couple of minutes😅.
And you are onto an absolute truth here with the pleasures in life and "normalcy" statement!
To be honest I'm always halfway to Edwardian or Lovecraftian cosplay, but only in that I take what I love from the eras ~around (and excluding, except trench-coats) the World Wars, especially the hyper-vibrant ante-depression interbellum here in Germany and make it my own, including some anachronistic details and in the end it's *my* style based on the past and it never feels costumey.
Just wear the style you love and do it in grace and compliments will inevitably be the result!
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Hello Ash, I looked many videos, they are very good! Please keep on! Thank you!
Glad you like them!
A pair of finely dressed chaps indeed. I really like both. Like Raoul I have a couple of canes and maybe should use them more. His style is right up my street so to speak. I have the exact burberry raincoat. So versatile. And Mr Bond's coat does look the part. I have to agree with Ash on the sleeve length. A simple fix. I have one very similar from Berwin. Both gentlemen are truly well dressed chaps. I doff my hat to both. Really well put together and a pleasure to see. Great video Ash.
Very dapper, Mr Bond!!
Both gentlemen are very stylish. Mr Bond looks very good in that Bowler hat. Raoul has a very continental look. Almost like Hercule Poirot right down to the waxed mustache and silver handheld walking stick. I have a collection of walking sticks but don't use them as much as I should. It is so encouraging to see chaps like these cutting such a dash and hopefully setting an example to others. Cheers Ron
Thank you!
Of course I feel more like the Hercule Poirot of the older adaptions - I just don't cut the same dash as a Kenneth Branagh in the recent-most😂.
Go for the canes by all means! It's a dapper and actually useful accessory... I feel... and I need mine... err... *it's still dapper-most item!* 🙃
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
@@RaoulKunz1 I make walking sticks as a hobby mostly longer ones for hiking and the kind they use when shooting pheasants. I get quite a lot of use out of those. Best Regards Ron
Raoul (did I spell that correctly?) is the image I have of a chap. Tip of the hat to you to you, good sir!
High praise!
**bows, clicks heels** thank you!
(also correct spelling, yes, the French and Portuguese one)
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Fantastic
very good looking forward to more
Il soprabito di Burberry e' sempre un capo elegantissimo .
Ottimo video !!
A little off topic, but in your next Q&A or even a dedicated video can you comment on the best pocket knife for unboxing and camping which is legal carry in the UK at least?
Nice episode!
Hello Ash, you are on the money when you say ' fashion' is transitory. I recall reading about an English designer called James Laver. His "Cycle of Fashion "
10 years before its time - indecent
5 yrs before its time - shameless
1 year before its time- outre
Of its time - smart
1 year after its time - dowdy
10 years after its time- hideous
20 yrs after its time - ridiculous
30 years after its time - amusing
50 years after its time - quaint
70 years after its time - charming
100 years after its time - romantic
150 years after its time- beautiful
James Laver, Taste and Fashion 1945.
I recall reading about Laver in another very good book - " Taste" by Stephen Bailey 1988.
Style is timeless as you rightly point out. I only mention the above as I thing a gentleman is a man who has sound insights in to such matters as taste, which has nothing to do with snobbery or being prissy, but rather It's an intelligent, thoughtful approach to ones sartorial and life choices.
Great video yet again ❤
Laver was clearly a very stute man when it comes to design & style. Thank you for introducing me to his work. Ash
Love Rowell,last time I saw someone dressed like him he was being arrested by Hercule Poirot.😁
My, I'm jumping back and forth here from allegedly looking like Monsieur Poirot himself to a possible opponent of his🤣.
Seriously though (well, a tiny bit more serious) it's probably a consequence of my love for the more formal interbellum styles that makes me look like either a dapper Belgian detective or a villainous German moustache-twirler... after all *I am one* ...though I'd contest the "villainous" part, but then what villains sees himself as the antagonist?😂
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Raoul, what tie-knots are you using? I noticed, they are not the usual 4-in-Hand or Windsor ones. I do like you're wearing a tie-pin, an underrated piece of gentleman's jewellery.
And "James Bond" - you look exactly like the kind of gentlemen I adored in 1970ies London: a bowler hat, a Winchester shirt, even a self-tied bow tie, a contrasting collar of the coat and the pocket square in the greatcoat. Well done!
While I *do* wear normal four-in-hand or oriental knots with ties I prefer my occasional horizontally oriented (barrel) knot with the formal cravats - it's actually fairly simple and starts with a normal oriental knot until the point you have passed behind the knot and are in front of the knot with the (normally longer, here of equivalent length) end hanging free, ready to finish the knot.
Now take the other end, form a loop and pass the "longer", free hanging end through the loop from the front, pull, voila!
Now cross the two ends that look a bit like a huge hanging bow-tie, find a desired point of the two crossing, might be lower or higher, depends on the waistcoat really, should stay visible though so careful with six-buttoned or more waistcoats, and put a pin through it, adjust and put on a waistcoat or a normal coat if you intend it to stay closed that is - done.
Browse "regency cravat" here on youtube if my description was confusing🤣😅.
Just remember that with a later Victorian or Edwardian cravat you do *not* have the length to go for multiple rounds ...err...around (my, what elegant prose here...) the neck, just treat it like a normal tie.
Hope that helps, I'm certain there are more in depth and helpful guides here on the platform😆 .
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
@@RaoulKunz1 Oh, you did certainly very well, thank you, in particular as I did not know these tie knots. So far, it's always been Four-in Hand, Windaor and Prince Albert knots.
BTW, as you seem to be quite a tall man, have you ever thought about wide brimmed hats?
@@adrianwalker2833 I actually have several of those from my "early hat-nut case" phase, but I only still wear the brown ones (you can see one of those "Indy-tastic" fedoras in "Am I a Chap VI") because the black ones are just too... too "hipster-starving-artist-goth-git-on-the-cheap" here in Germany - maybe I'll wear again in a couple of years when fashion has moved on in it's eternal cyclic motion of silly - after all it's not as if wool-felt and hair-felt hats would go bad or anything, they'll just stay in their moth protected closet 'till then. 🧐
Happy to be of help with the barrel knot!
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
Smart outerwear is becoming increasingly uncommon on the street. I frequently see well-paid bankers and barristers scurrying to their offices with a puffer jacket over their bespoke pinstripe suits. Of course, the scarcity of closet space in all-but the highest end London flats and houses might have something to do with that.....
Only half in jest on that last bit. Overcoats take up a LOT of space, especially if you have more than one or two per household member. So pick wisely.
For gents in a moderate climate, I'd recommend two. A dark-grey (charcoal) wool single breasted, slightly past the knee, works well for cold (but not rainy) winter days. Don't get one that's too long. As this can make getting into and out of cars and other vehicles difficult. For the spring-through autumn, a light grey, faun, or even off-white single breasted macintosh-type raincoat is great. Also go with knee length. I avoid the "trench coat" style because I don't work in a trench (and I'm not Humphrey Bogart). It's also, dare I say it, a little out of style these days. It may well come back. But not now.
RE: Longer coats. These used to be thing in the late 19th and early 20th century because most streets weren't paved, and were frequently covered with horse manure that got spattered over pedestrians legs. (That's also why gents wore "spats" over their shoes). Since that's not really a thing these days, I think we can dispense with the ankle-length coats. Form must follow function, or so I've been told.
Form only follows function in Bauhaus ideology which gave us low ceilings, lying window frames, de-beautification of magnificent buildings of the late 19th century and other abysmal things. (But it also gave us the Lamy-designed fountain pens...)
It's a lie in my opinion because most modern forms *claim* to follow function but don't, or only in the function of bettering the ego of the designer.
Case in point:
The trench coat isn't named thus because it was designed for the trenches of the great war, it's an officers foul weather coat in a colour appropriate for the early 20th century khaki coloured uniforms. It just happened to be a superb item for enduring foul weather in a (intended to be temporary with the aim of getting back to a war of movement, as happened in the last offensives on both sides) trench, especially an Entente-Powers entrenched position.
I also don't feel it has gone out of fashion (as if that mattered) because, as I related here earlier, it has a distinct 80s vibe, a distinct interbellum vibe, a distinct early 90s vibe, a post-bellum vibe - you get where I'm going and at least here in Frankfurt (which isn't exactly unimportant in a globalized world) I see a lot of them, and I mean *a lot* in autumn and spring rainy weather - because it's *form follows* (strangely enough) the *function* of being a light weight rain-coat and wind-breaker and cover all the body parts most exposed to rain.
And it does it without looking like a Ghostbusters marsh-mellow-man.
I personally favour and prefer longer coats, but here's a caveat that for reasons of logistics and actually arriving anytime on-time I usually don't go by car but commute to work by train.
If you have to get around by car (as the entirety (simplified) of the US has to e.g.) things are substantially different and the shorter coat gains ground here, no doubt.
I also feel that the advantages of a double breasted coat as a rain, cold or foul-weather garment are substantial enough to justify it - sure there are covered single breasted coats and they certainly are useful and can be stylish, as Mr. Bond here just demonstrated but in general I appreciate the additional layer this gives the most exposed-to-weather direction.
And why not wear a wool-coat in rainy weather as an outer garment? - certainly not as a raincoat, sure, but wool is capable of absorbing up to 30% of its weight in water without feeling wet.
I know this reads like a damning rebuke, but it's really not, I'm just making my ppint and I'm completely okay with accepting yours, I just feel that certain arguments are misleading, but again, that's *me* .
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
mr. bond was the winner for me, the first guy really knew what he is doing but a little costumey
I've always wanted a overcoat, however, I have never been sure what to buy! I would like one for summer but also the same one for winter _(when it rains)_ but doesn't make me overheat _(summer time)!_
Trench-coat!
Not necessarily the super expensive ones, just one with a removable lining.
Burberry's "rain coats" are a fine option if second hand, they are super light, they *look* like a normal trench-coat and if you can source it, there are trench-coat specific "winter" linings to button into the coat - with a bit of looking and searching nothing's prohibitively expensive and if you find a separate winter lining that fits you, got for it , you can easily sew the buttons to fix it in yourself or have it done by an alterations tailor a for a couple of bucks!
And if you manage to get your hands on a Burberry's, Aquascutum or really any "true" trench-coat (there's even really good ones from, of all places, C&A, but that's once upon a time) it will be made from Gabardine or some form of it and it will be moderately watertight, breathable and light - won't cause sweating in spring!
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
@@RaoulKunz1 Grüße Freund, Thank you for the advice! I will have to look around for an over-coat! The closest I've got is a Harris Tweed jack, it is like a force field against the rain, and the lining is brushed cotton, and it's cool in summer!
As I watched the video, I observed your _pin-stripe_ jacket, I've got a single breasted one in the same design! Ash is so correct, with all of the outfits you wore, you employed pocket squares!
In the last two years, I have learnt to sew buttons on _both versions_ and with standard trousers _(Hose)_ to sew extra buttons for Zahnspange. As I have a pair of Tuxedo trousers, I just copied their idea!
@@jonathonshanecrawford1840
Great to hear! I feel that sewing on *at least* buttons is a required gentlemen's skill (it's also both a military skill as well as in many civilian trades a requirement) that has, in the broad public, taken the mistaken derogative connotation of "a women's skill"... as if a man shouldn't be able to care for his clothing!
Oh and here's a little German lesson - braces or bracers can be many things - orthopaedic supports, items to keep up the trousers, teeth straighteners - "Zahnspange" literally "Teeth-bracers" are, as the name implies, *only* dental implements.
German, literally as it is, calls bracers for trousers *literally* "trouser-carriers" or "Hosenträger"... German language loves to be *very* descriptive and direct 🤣.
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz, wearer of trouser-carriers
@@RaoulKunz1 Mein verehrter Freund, Very interesting, a real man _gentleman_ should know how to sew! I had to learn the sewing skill myself!
I love the German language, there the word _"hose"_ for an example, its meaning in English is something we use to water the garden, and as you know the German meaning, _Hose_ as to trousers! Even the word friend _Freund_, is almost the same spelling in English!
I have a believe that when talking to someone in another country such as you country and language, it is respectable to use their language where possible, I use Google translate! )As some of the characters are not on my keyboard) I hope you don't mind, sometimes using German?
Speaking of trousers, when I get a new pair, I sew in the area where they split, with polyester thread, to reinforce them, even the buttons, as they tend to fall off!
But your so correct, that sewing isn't just a woman's skill, its a man's skill as well. I keep thinking of a husband with his wife just had a baby, and he needs his garment repaired, _"For god's sake your a man, do it yourself, she just had a baby!"_
I am not sure if the 12th Doctor wears a tail coat or a over coat, as the scenes can be too fast!
A bit flamboyant for me... that's my lack of confidence in reality. Love the style though.... I feel European/German(?) , not so much British... I can see Ash got that feeling too .. "Bond Villain" ! Love the use of grey/ red, It picked out the red in the shoes and brownie red gloves. I think the Chap could get away with wider hats... on film, at least, it would balance better,
Do I look zat Dschermän?
Well Herr Burtonshaw, yu are correct!🤣
A bit less silly: You are not wrong, and as I said elsewhere, especially the double breasted grey and red coat has "General staff" Great War echoes all over it😆.
As to hats - I wore mostly wide brimmed Fedoras in my early "hat journey" but while they sometimes looks good (and I of course still have several) it's not truly an option with grey and especially black Fedoras - times be cursed but they have an "goth-try-hard" aura (not that goth style can't look very cool, just not mine) - and the more formal hat's just don't have wide brims.
Mind you brown Fedoras can look super nice, and I'm wearing one in "Am I a Chap VI", they look very... Indy-cool with both suits and more casual outfits.
But wide brimmed black ones... too much of a Goth-look-on-the-cheap or Berlin-wanna-be-artist vibe.
And there I am being influence, at least moderately, by the times...😮💨 score one for fashion🤣.
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
@@RaoulKunz1 oh, you are the model in the photo? Some great ensambles to be fair... just revisiting the outfit with the blue bits.. really good. M
@@MrBurtonshaw Much appreciated!😄
The blue one with the grey bits or the beige one with the blue bits?😉
I feel the navy pin-stripe one looks a bit better, but that's me.😆
Oh and the grey and red one is fairly villain-level flamboyant alright but here's a secret: it's also *super comfy warm* in sub-zero temperatures - the super-flamboyant collar really both retains warmth and blocks cold winds better than *anything* I've worn as of yet.
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
@@RaoulKunz1 the beige.. the blue with it is wonderful . Navy pin-stripe is also excellent... and on the trouser break/braces... I've just refurbed a pair of Thurstons that had £ symbols on a navy grosgrain.... replaced with a lovely two layered ribbed, jet black grosgrain with matching elastic bit on the back... my trusty Singer 201 managed to go through two layers of leather and two layers of grosgrain! ... took delivery of some nice Crockett & Jones cap toe oxfords that need refurbishing too today... they'll turn out great and for a tenth of the new price.. which is always nice.
That beige double breasted jacket needs a good iron, something you have mentioned in other videos
I don't want mink!
But can I cause the murder of trillions of cute little Polish polyesters?😉
Joking aside, your absolutely correct on Mink - way too cool an animal (all the small predators are kind of cute, must be a human thing... we are similar in food habits...🤣) to kill over it's fur!
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz
@@RaoulKunz1 Hallo Freund wie geht es dir heute?
😀Have you heard the joke, _"How many polyesters did it make that sweater?"_ Or isn't that a girls name? _Poly Ester?_ 😀
A man made mink lining, say sheep's wool is far better, after all we could eat the sheep, considering there are billions of sheep, I don't think sheep are becoming extinct soon!
@@jonathonshanecrawford1840 Heck I work everyday with cowhide every day and you know what unites every hide, from the super dapperly vegetable tanned JR products to cheap chemically tanned stuff?
It's a by-product of meat production.
All of it starts out like this =>🐄
Best regards
Raoul G. Kunz, cow-hide-user