This was a life saver. After a couple of local shops failed to press out the springs for my e60 xdrive, I bought this tool and did both front struts in under half hour using Otto's technique to press over the top cup! Thank you!!
I remembered you could by the strut w/ springs already installed from Bavarian Autosport. Went to their website and learned they are no longer in business. Thank you for your DYI video's - you allowed me to send my kid to college without selling my bimmers. He graduated this year. Thank you and wish you all the best.
Really, really appreciate this and all the other videos you do. Extremely thorough and you don't assume "common knowledge" that other videos do. I was struggling with re-assembling mine, as I was dumb enough to decompress the spring when I took it off. This helped enormously. Thank you.
ATTENTION XI OWNERS: The procedure is the same. The top strut MOUNTS are NOT. The strut MOUNTS for, say a 2007 328XI are much shorter than the standard strut MOUNTS shown here. Make sure you know this when ordering your parts. Bavarian Autosport DID have the correct MOUNTS in stock but it took quite a bit of effort to make sure they were the right ones. Thankfully Allen at BA took the time to figure it out for me.
@@sammynice6253 Did you find a solution? I'm on an F30 and the top mount is not "split" like in the video so I am unable to take to safety precaution suggested on engaging the cradle in the slot underneath the mount. It is a borrowed compressor and I can't therefore drill holes and use the pips on the mount that engage in the inner wing.
Otto (and bavauto), I first want to thank you for producing as many videos with as many DIYs as you all do. They have inspired me to take on projects I would never have attempted without at least some visual guidance on what to do. They have also shown me the value of utilizing the correct tools for any given job versus trying to improvise with whatever happens to be available. With that said; this is going to come across as nit-picky, but the process of seating the upper spring rubber to the spring plate was not shown (when you bring back the spring assembly the new rubber has vanished from the table and is already installed). I assume the process involves decompressing the spring, removing it, installing the top rubber, and then re-compressing the spring. But is that accurate, and is there anything else I should know?
Man you are a brave man trusting that tool. At the dealer we never used those. Too many accidents. A mixture of the tool not exactly designed to be mounted on the mount plate, and a fast paced environment. We had a wall mounted unit which is what was used for all chassis application. It was great, fast, and more importantly, safe. Good video though, especially showing the spark plug socket trick. You can use a crows foot, and then torque to spec with a torque wrench. Or cut a box wrench end, and make your own.
The spring compressor is universal and comes with three different spring shoes. It should work with most (if not all) strut and coil-over applications.
Thank you. For lowering spring, is there a need to shave the bumpstop?..like if spring is 1 inch lower, then cut 1 inch as well on bumpstop? Thanks again♥️
Yes, the kit has 2-each of three different spring clamps and will work with various different makes and models. We do like it! We have the kit available in our online store at bavauto.com
Hi Otto, Enjoy your videos, really got me interested in doing some work on my BMW. A quick comment....it would be great it you could do a video on jacking up the different bmw series cars. I am very confused from all the blogs, and find that pictures often don't help much. I did see your article from spring 2008...but I think a video detailing jacking points, and jack stand placement would be beneficial to all! Thanks
I disagree. My BMW F30 springs are of a much reduced diameter at the ends where they engage on the strut and the top mount compared to the central region and so the threaded bar of a standard spring compressor fouls on the full diameter coils. As such, you can only engage on these full diameter coils and this is not enough length of the spring to compress enough to re-assemble the strut. My problem with the video is my top mount is not of the "split type" and so I have no easy way of stopping the upper cradle from slipping off other than to drill holes in it and use the positioning pips on the upper mount that are used to locate the mount in the inner wing of the car. It is a borrowed spring compressor and so that option is also not available. Nightmare of a "simple" job.
I made my own video for the 6 series. I recommend NOT putting the upper clamp on the upper strut plate. You can go just below it clamp it down. Someone else mentioned the same thing in the replies. Buy this tool!!! Personally it's soooo muuuch easier than the $20 Advance Auto/Pep/Autozone threaded rod and hooks. My old hook and threaded rod would twist as the coil would compress. It was nerve racking!!! Bought my clam compressor like the one in the video for $85. Well worth the investment for a 1 time tool!!!!
@M S that's NOT a good technique. The strut plate can move and the spring will pop out. I made a video on my channel on how to it the proper and safe way.
Great video! Just one small question - what is the other method of aligning the spring to the spring plate (respectfully lower/upper) besides, where the old one was?
I somewhat reluctantly ordered one of these spring compressors. Annoying that the tool should cost as much as two new front struts and springs, but there you go. Using the old clamp and screw type is just unnerving, and it chews up your springs, ruining the painted coating and leaving them open to corrosion almost immediately. £150 is a lot for a non power tool, but it’s the only way. Thanks Otto, hope you’re still spannering away, wherever you are these days.
Good video. Is there any way to determine signs if you have a bad shock mount before removing the actual strut/shock? I would hate to buy them and then find out my original ones are still in OK condition after removing the strut/shocks. Of course it's a safer bet to have the new shock mounts during installation and avoid doing the work twice at a later time, but I am on a tight budget since I need to purchase all the struts & shocks at one time with boot sets on my BMW 5 series.
Visually, cracking in the rubber or the center bearing and the rubber visually pushed upward 9with the weight of the vehicle on it). Other symptoms can be a knocking from the bearing while driving, due to play in the actual bearing. Once the mount is off, you can check for bearing play or grittyness while turning the race, as well as a more complete visual inspection. If you do purchase mounts to have on-hand, and decide not to install them, they are returnable.
Those are the SafeGrip gloves that we offer in our online store. Just go to bavauto.com and search on GLOVES (you will have to enter a year/model before the site will show results).
damn i had the same problem using your strut tool.. never occur to me to put the c clamp on the mount..i used the o clamp design for e46 but for e90 is not good fit the tool is slight bigger inside diameter,it was a pain and nervous cause the strut wanted to tilt hard to access the strut thread
Does that spring compressor tool work well with Sport springs from an M suspension on an e85?? I have all new parts to build up totally new strut assy. Should I send it out or give it a whirl??
You have the Blisteins here but what about Koni FSD on a '04 330ci. Looking on your website products, what FRONT bump stops, dust boots and spring seats are needed to match this? As for the rear, they come with rear dust boots and bump stops, but what about the spring seats in the rear?
The front Koni shocks use all the original type bump-stops, boots, etc. The front shock install kit includes the stops, boots and spring seats. The E46 rear spring seats are comparatively thick and don't always need to be replaced. However, you can't go wrong by replacing them and having fresh un-compressed rubber. We do offer the rear seats, but they are not shown on our web site. Just give our Advisors a call at 800-535-2002 or email info@bavauto.com.
I have to replace 2003 e46 front shocks... I would like to have original feel to the drive. Not looking to be sportier although perhaps dampener preference would be good? What shocks would you suggest.. ?Blistein Koni etc ?
We have a full step-by-step photo DIY on the VANOS removal and rebuild of our tech blog at blog.bavauto.com ... search for VANOS DIY in the blog search box.
I'm pretty sure you guys heard of the holden commodore over here in australia! Or Chevrolet in america! Would it be the same process to change the front shocks for the holden commodore? Thanks!!
should you always replace springs with the shocks? Do the springs actually go bad? I would like to upgrade to bilstein shocks but wanted to keep the car stock. All the new springs seem to lower the car.
Springs are not a required replacement. Only if broken or sagging (one or more sitting lower than they should). The Bilstein HD or Sport will work great with the stock springs.
I cant find this spring compressor at your site. I can find Mercedes-Benz Coil Spring Compressor but this one. Is this out of stock thats why not showing up in your list?
I have a mini cooper 06 type s and it makes a rubber to rubber cork sound on slow turns. I checked the strut mount and it seems to be intact with no visible tears. When the car is on the lift with the front tires off the ground the sound is gone, could this be related to the strut or strut mount?
It certainly could be the upper mount. We would suggest that you have a helper and try to listen up close as the wheel is turned (assuming it will do this with the vehicle stationary). You should be able to determine if the sound is coming from the upper mount (or someplace else). Listen from the outside (up near the tire and the fender opening) as well as under the hood. You could also run the car up on ramps or onto a ramp-type lift and listen from underneath.
I know this was 11 months ago but just use some vice grips or channel locks and hold the onto the shaft directly. You're not going to reuse it anyway. just be careful/wary of the spring.
***** I have three different styles of spring compressors including an OTC strut tamer Xtreme and it's failing to do the struts on a 2011 335i. The springs could possibly be damaged when the were removed, but I sure wish I had that German one now. when the springs are near fully compressed they bulge on one side and look as though they're about to shoot out!
Tim Taylor's favorite - Binford 2000 Seriously, though, This type of compressor comes in handy on the applications that require the spring to be near fully compressed.
BavarianAuto Have you ever replaced the struts on a BMW F30? The spring is too short and the upper mount is too large and different from that one. The dealer has a spring compressor just like that one and it didn't work! I'm trying to replace my baseline struts/springs with MSport ones.
Marco Corrêa You may need to use a "bench type" spring compressor. They will completely flatten a spring. But I believe that large floor tool is around $600 so unless you do a lot of spring work or just love to have miscellaneous tools. You might need to take it to a shop that has one.
***** Well, I did it. The problem is that the spring has like 2 large coils in the middle and one smaller coil each side. You need to place the compressor supports as far as possible from the center but, as I said, there aren't many coils. It's a PITA! Not even the dealer was able to fit between the two mounts.
He says the torque setting for the strut nut is generally 25 to 35 foot-pounds, but check the Bentley manual. I did, and it says 32 foot-pounds for internal hexagons, 48 for external hexagons. I mis-read that and used the higher figure despite having internals. Would hate to have to take the whole thing apart. Anyone think the difference between 32 and 48 is big enough that I really need to? Thanks.
I tried that very tool on my 04 330Ci Conv and couldn't quite bite into the upper collar all the way. Everything got all distorted. I also tried attaching both top and bottom directly onto the spring and the distortion was even worse. Was afraid it would all explode on me. There's literally tons of energy stored in there and could only imagine the blood and broken bones if something went wrong. Still a ton of tension/pressure at top. Was afraid if I tried to loosen allen nut it would never get back on. After spending tons of hours and $100's on tools and parts, finally letting a mechanic do it.
Normally, you would want to have the tool's spring seats connected to the actual coils. On some applications, the spring needs to be fully compressed in order to relieve the tension on the mount, due to the shock design. As you noted, there is a great amount of energy stored in the compressed spring. If you are uncomfortable, it's best to err on the side of caution.
This was a life saver. After a couple of local shops failed to press out the springs for my e60 xdrive, I bought this tool and did both front struts in under half hour using Otto's technique to press over the top cup!
Thank you!!
I remembered you could by the strut w/ springs already installed from Bavarian Autosport. Went to their website and learned they are no longer in business. Thank you for your DYI video's - you allowed me to send my kid to college without selling my bimmers. He graduated this year. Thank you and wish you all the best.
ECS Tuning bought them. Another great supplier.
Damn, miss the gang at Bavauto! They were 40 minutes away and always helpful. "Otto" and I both had E30's at the time, and traded stories...
I miss Otto and his videos 😥
Really, really appreciate this and all the other videos you do. Extremely thorough and you don't assume "common knowledge" that other videos do. I was struggling with re-assembling mine, as I was dumb enough to decompress the spring when I took it off. This helped enormously. Thank you.
This guy has a very good ability for explaining things clearly, well done .
good video the short travel and low number of coils make them harder then most
Thanks for your patience, this is the kind of spoonfeedingtutorial i like.
07:35 This is your compression bumper and this is the DAS BOOT :) thnk's for the video.
that spark plug Allen wrench tip is so helpful!!! great vids keep them coming.
Also using a spark plug socket comes in very handy for these particular applications.. Good job!
Correct, you are! That's just what we did use.
ATTENTION XI OWNERS: The procedure is the same. The top strut MOUNTS are NOT. The strut MOUNTS for, say a 2007 328XI are much shorter than the standard strut MOUNTS shown here. Make sure you know this when ordering your parts. Bavarian Autosport DID have the correct MOUNTS in stock but it took quite a bit of effort to make sure they were the right ones. Thankfully Allen at BA took the time to figure it out for me.
Hi, Auto here for Bavarian Ottosport.
Yeah that’s iconic
I'm soo glad I watched this, or I'd still 've trying to get the spring/shocker put back together 😱😱
Nightmare
Still trying on the f30
@@sammynice6253 Did you find a solution? I'm on an F30 and the top mount is not "split" like in the video so I am unable to take to safety precaution suggested on engaging the cradle in the slot underneath the mount. It is a borrowed compressor and I can't therefore drill holes and use the pips on the mount that engage in the inner wing.
How do you compress the coils on the f30? They have a different gasket
My point exactly !!
Thanks, i didn't know you had to compress the mount and spring toghther, thats why i failed. Thanks will sort it now
Otto (and bavauto), I first want to thank you for producing as many videos with as many DIYs as you all do. They have inspired me to take on projects I would never have attempted without at least some visual guidance on what to do. They have also shown me the value of utilizing the correct tools for any given job versus trying to improvise with whatever happens to be available. With that said; this is going to come across as nit-picky, but the process of seating the upper spring rubber to the spring plate was not shown (when you bring back the spring assembly the new rubber has vanished from the table and is already installed). I assume the process involves decompressing the spring, removing it, installing the top rubber, and then re-compressing the spring. But is that accurate, and is there anything else I should know?
Man you are a brave man trusting that tool. At the dealer we never used those. Too many accidents. A mixture of the tool not exactly designed to be mounted on the mount plate, and a fast paced environment. We had a wall mounted unit which is what was used for all chassis application. It was great, fast, and more importantly, safe. Good video though, especially showing the spark plug socket trick. You can use a crows foot, and then torque to spec with a torque wrench. Or cut a box wrench end, and make your own.
We all have spring compressor envy .... for a nice wall mounted. full fixture unit!
haha. Yea there are some nice ones out there.
The spring compressor is universal and comes with three different spring shoes. It should work with most (if not all) strut and coil-over applications.
Thank you. For lowering spring, is there a need to shave the bumpstop?..like if spring is 1 inch lower, then cut 1 inch as well on bumpstop? Thanks again♥️
Yes, the kit has 2-each of three different spring clamps and will work with various different makes and models. We do like it! We have the kit available in our online store at bavauto.com
Outstanding video. Always a pleasure to watch your work.
I miss bavarian autosport.
Where do you find the flat not angled plate for the compressor, because the one that comes with that tool is angled
Hi Otto,
Enjoy your videos, really got me interested in doing some work on my BMW. A quick comment....it would be great it you could do a video on jacking up the different bmw series cars. I am very confused from all the blogs, and find that pictures often don't help much. I did see your article from spring 2008...but I think a video detailing jacking points, and jack stand placement would be beneficial to all! Thanks
While the type shown is very safe and easy to use, any compressor that is designed to be used externally on a strut type assembly can be used.
I disagree. My BMW F30 springs are of a much reduced diameter at the ends where they engage on the strut and the top mount compared to the central region and so the threaded bar of a standard spring compressor fouls on the full diameter coils. As such, you can only engage on these full diameter coils and this is not enough length of the spring to compress enough to re-assemble the strut. My problem with the video is my top mount is not of the "split type" and so I have no easy way of stopping the upper cradle from slipping off other than to drill holes in it and use the positioning pips on the upper mount that are used to locate the mount in the inner wing of the car. It is a borrowed spring compressor and so that option is also not available. Nightmare of a "simple" job.
I made my own video for the 6 series. I recommend NOT putting the upper clamp on the upper strut plate. You can go just below it clamp it down. Someone else mentioned the same thing in the replies. Buy this tool!!! Personally it's soooo muuuch easier than the $20 Advance Auto/Pep/Autozone threaded rod and hooks. My old hook and threaded rod would twist as the coil would compress. It was nerve racking!!! Bought my clam compressor like the one in the video for $85. Well worth the investment for a 1 time tool!!!!
Why not put the clamp on the upper strut plate?
@M S that's NOT a good technique. The strut plate can move and the spring will pop out. I made a video on my channel on how to it the proper and safe way.
These videos are really helpful! Thanks 🙏
The spark plug socket got me
I never realized
How do you replace the top spring rubber pad??
Excellent video.. Very good step by step instructions.. Really helpful thanks ;-)
Can you make a video step by step on removing the vanos on 01 BMW 530i...tnx
So would this type of spring compressor be better than the typical 2-piece PITA spring compressor? I’m working on. 2006 X3 non-sport
It seems like the new top mount had the "dust cap" on. So there are 2 of them on now.
Great video! Just one small question - what is the other method of aligning the spring to the spring plate (respectfully lower/upper) besides, where the old one was?
I somewhat reluctantly ordered one of these spring compressors. Annoying that the tool should cost as much as two new front struts and springs, but there you go.
Using the old clamp and screw type is just unnerving, and it chews up your springs, ruining the painted coating and leaving them open to corrosion almost immediately. £150 is a lot for a non power tool, but it’s the only way.
Thanks Otto, hope you’re still spannering away, wherever you are these days.
Really useful video 👍🏻
Can regular spring compressors work or only the type shown here
I may have need to re-torque my strut nut. Is it okay to tighten the top strut nut while the car is on the ground?
Would that spring compressor be good to use on SUV strut springs?
thank you!!! just changed my struts :)))
Good video. Is there any way to determine signs if you have a bad shock mount before removing the actual strut/shock? I would hate to buy them and then find out my original ones are still in OK condition after removing the strut/shocks. Of course it's a safer bet to have the new shock mounts during installation and avoid doing the work twice at a later time, but I am on a tight budget since I need to purchase all the struts & shocks at one time with boot sets on my BMW 5 series.
Visually, cracking in the rubber or the center bearing and the rubber visually pushed upward 9with the weight of the vehicle on it). Other symptoms can be a knocking from the bearing while driving, due to play in the actual bearing. Once the mount is off, you can check for bearing play or grittyness while turning the race, as well as a more complete visual inspection. If you do purchase mounts to have on-hand, and decide not to install them, they are returnable.
Those are the SafeGrip gloves that we offer in our online store. Just go to bavauto.com and search on GLOVES (you will have to enter a year/model before the site will show results).
damn i had the same problem using your strut tool.. never occur to me to put the c clamp on the mount..i used the o clamp design for e46 but for e90 is not good fit the tool is slight bigger inside diameter,it was a pain and nervous cause the strut wanted to tilt hard to access the strut thread
im always look for a spring compressor that wont try to kill me, i know this a universal kit made by koch, does it work well with other makes?
Probably not. Strut springs on SUV's have thick coils, so you would need a stronger spring compressor like an OTC 7294.
Does that spring compressor tool work well with Sport springs from an M suspension on an e85?? I have all new parts to build up totally new strut assy. Should I send it out or give it a whirl??
You have the Blisteins here but what about Koni FSD on a '04 330ci. Looking on your website products, what FRONT bump stops, dust boots and spring seats are needed to match this? As for the rear, they come with rear dust boots and bump stops, but what about the spring seats in the rear?
The front Koni shocks use all the original type bump-stops, boots, etc. The front shock install kit includes the stops, boots and spring seats. The E46 rear spring seats are comparatively thick and don't always need to be replaced. However, you can't go wrong by replacing them and having fresh un-compressed rubber. We do offer the rear seats, but they are not shown on our web site. Just give our Advisors a call at 800-535-2002 or email info@bavauto.com.
I have to replace 2003 e46 front shocks... I would like to have original feel to the drive. Not looking to be sportier although perhaps dampener preference would be good? What shocks would you suggest.. ?Blistein Koni etc ?
For a "back to new" ride, the Sachs shocks will be just like original (Sachs makes the original shocks).
www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=157
8:03 I like how he say 'in.stall.kit' and points to different components lol
You Are Wrong , I just bought Bilsteins, they are original equipement and require bump stop and cover.
B4 Bilsteins need a bump stop. B6 and above do not need a bump stop.
We have a full step-by-step photo DIY on the VANOS removal and rebuild of our tech blog at blog.bavauto.com ... search for VANOS DIY in the blog search box.
I'm pretty sure you guys heard of the holden commodore over here in australia! Or Chevrolet in america!
Would it be the same process to change the front shocks for the holden commodore?
Thanks!!
The Holden does use a strut type front spring/shock. Very similar to what is shown here. the strut is attached to the hub via two through bolts.
what brand of gloves are those and where can i get them?
should you always replace springs with the shocks? Do the springs actually go bad? I would like to upgrade to bilstein shocks but wanted to keep the car stock. All the new springs seem to lower the car.
Springs are not a required replacement. Only if broken or sagging (one or more sitting lower than they should). The Bilstein HD or Sport will work great with the stock springs.
I cant find this spring compressor at your site. I can find Mercedes-Benz Coil Spring Compressor but this one. Is this out of stock thats why not showing up in your list?
Found it, listed as "Schwaben Strut Spring Compressor Set"
U video are very helpful thanks
I have a mini cooper 06 type s and it makes a rubber to rubber cork sound on slow turns. I checked the strut mount and it seems to be intact with no visible tears. When the car is on the lift with the front tires off the ground the sound is gone, could this be related to the strut or strut mount?
It certainly could be the upper mount. We would suggest that you have a helper and try to listen up close as the wheel is turned (assuming it will do this with the vehicle stationary). You should be able to determine if the sound is coming from the upper mount (or someplace else). Listen from the outside (up near the tire and the fender opening) as well as under the hood. You could also run the car up on ramps or onto a ramp-type lift and listen from underneath.
thanks!
Excellent.
thanks very informative!
thanks as always)
what if the Allan spot that holds the strut is STRIPPED HOW CAN I TAKE THE THING APART NOW
I know this was 11 months ago but just use some vice grips or channel locks and hold the onto the shaft directly. You're not going to reuse it anyway. just be careful/wary of the spring.
Can you use a universal type strut spring compressor on that strut?
on BMW you can use any spring compressors as long as they have the locking pins on them. Mercedes requires a special compressor.
*****
I have three different styles of spring compressors including an OTC strut tamer Xtreme and it's failing to do the struts on a 2011 335i. The springs could possibly be damaged when the were removed, but I sure wish I had that German one now. when the springs are near fully compressed they bulge on one side and look as though they're about to shoot out!
briansmobile1
I DID get the job done using a screw and hook type compressor in conjunction with the strut tamer Xtreme, but it was NOT "safe" or easy.
Good Job!!!!
Nice gloves saving your pretty hands for the prom ?
Otto finally learned to use gloves, a few years ago.
Damn, that's a serious spring compressor.
Tim Taylor's favorite - Binford 2000
Seriously, though, This type of compressor comes in handy on the applications that require the spring to be near fully compressed.
BavarianAuto Have you ever replaced the struts on a BMW F30? The spring is too short and the upper mount is too large and different from that one. The dealer has a spring compressor just like that one and it didn't work! I'm trying to replace my baseline struts/springs with MSport ones.
Marco Corrêa You may need to use a "bench type" spring compressor. They will completely flatten a spring. But I believe that large floor tool is around $600 so unless you do a lot of spring work or just love to have miscellaneous tools. You might need to take it to a shop that has one.
***** Well, I did it. The problem is that the spring has like 2 large coils in the middle and one smaller coil each side. You need to place the compressor supports as far as possible from the center but, as I said, there aren't many coils. It's a PITA! Not even the dealer was able to fit between the two mounts.
He says the torque setting for the strut nut is generally 25 to 35 foot-pounds, but check the Bentley manual. I did, and it says 32 foot-pounds for internal hexagons, 48 for external hexagons. I mis-read that and used the higher figure despite having internals. Would hate to have to take the whole thing apart. Anyone think the difference between 32 and 48 is big enough that I really need to? Thanks.
I tried that very tool on my 04 330Ci Conv and couldn't quite bite into the upper collar all the way. Everything got all distorted. I also tried attaching both top and bottom directly onto the spring and the distortion was even worse. Was afraid it would all explode on me. There's literally tons of energy stored in there and could only imagine the blood and broken bones if something went wrong. Still a ton of tension/pressure at top. Was afraid if I tried to loosen allen nut it would never get back on. After spending tons of hours and $100's on tools and parts, finally letting a mechanic do it.
Normally, you would want to have the tool's spring seats connected to the actual coils. On some applications, the spring needs to be fully compressed in order to relieve the tension on the mount, due to the shock design. As you noted, there is a great amount of energy stored in the compressed spring. If you are uncomfortable, it's best to err on the side of caution.
This won't work on a BMW F30 2013 !! It can be done with other basic clamps to assist but its a proper nightmare !!
upper rubber spring mount was forgotten
4:00 Dealer tool $75 special order 3week delivery time from Berlin.
Schwaben makes one in 22mm, generally available from BMW parts shops, $15 or so.