Can't wait for the undercoating video!!!!! I want to do this on my 2014 Silverado but I don't trust most places to remove and seal the rust. Thank you!
@@TheSundaeDrive Editing always takes the longest. Looking forward to the video, mine is rusty from being in Connecticut for 3 years and I want to start working on it soon. Just did my transmission fluid/filter yesterday, and spark plugs and rear diff today thanks to your videos, keep it up man!
Thanks for the walkthrough. Did it to my Silverado this past fall. If you don’t have a lift, definitely drop the spare tire and give yourself extra room.
Thanks for the video! The back of my chevy was hit by a loader and I'm replacing the whole thing, (box, bumper, and lights) to save almost $5000. I'm going to be using this video as a reference when I start uninstalling :D
Living in Maine, aka Salty Roadland, i have very little hope of my frame and undercarriage being that clean! Great video, I had no clue what to go after first!
Curious, what do you figure the bed and tailgate weighs? Considering building a flatbed camper on the back of my sierra 1500 but weight is a consideration.
Unfortunately I'm not exactly sure they aren't light but I would guess the bed itself is probably around 500 lb maybe a little more and the tailgate is probably like 70 lb or so
@TheSundaeDrive thank you so much for the reply! Oh, wow, that's a goof chunk of weight! Thinking of an aluminum build that would probably weight out to around 600lbs, so that's awesome news!
Very interesting, best video I’ve seen yet!!!! But those holes don’t look like they leave any room for adjustment. If my bed was off a little bit and I wanted to straighten it up I am assuming there is no way to do that because the holes on the bed and frame are exact? Standing by the tail lights and looking forward you can see the cab sticking out on the right side but on the left side there’s no cab exposed so I need to shift the front of the bed an inch to the right!
I do not think it would be easy to adjust unfortunately, the bed is designed to go on one way with the bolts lining up with the holes. There are also alignment pins that need to match up. Was the truck possibly in an accident at some point?
The Sundae Drive first and foremost I would like to tell you how much I appreciate your response!!! It was unexpected :) Correct, 2015 Silverado 2500 crew, ran off the road and sideswiped enbankment but hit bumper first at about a 10 angle (warn winch mount & grill guard took 85% of the impact) even though the bed of the truck wasn’t touched what’s funny is the front left top corner has a funny looking twisted indentation of about an inch or two and the passenger side top corner which had nothing to do with nothing has a protrusion as if you took your thumb and were Superman and pushed out an inch or so. I looked underneath and didn’t see any of the mounts or anything out of place so it looks like when the front driver corner hit (40mph) it did something to the bed via kinetic energy! I had it aligned and everything was fine and the back looks perfectly level it just looks like it kind of shifted but when I look underneath at the bolts and holes and mounts they haven’t moved so it’s kind of bizarre! Truck was paid for and I had just dropped the collision to save money... so it’s a DIY!
That sounds like your frame got twisted slightly by the force of the impact. Most likely you cab and bed also collided and then separated again during initial impact. I'm not sure of that is something that will be easily fixed 😬 I wish you the best of luck with it tho! That stinks :( at least you had the guard on front!
The Sundae Drive something seems VERY amiss to me here with your attitude lately!!! You can’t deny we have grown closer to each other these last couple days?? I mean you made it this far, at this point why stop now??? You start out being very nice, blah blah, cordial & friendly (whatever) and neighborly “yeah RIGHT” just to end abruptly and tell me oh well have a great day??? I simply do NOT understand why you’re not willing to stop what you’re doing, hop in your truck, drive to the mountains of North Carolina and FIX this issue for me!!!! What kind of scam are you running here buddy-boy?!? Talk about a tease!!!! You nonchalantly and very casually post an enticing video (entrapment) showing how easy it is to remove the bed from a truck, yet you’re not willing to come here and do it for me??? After all we’ve been through together? Sounds like a lot of smoke and mirrors you got going on over there. You didn’t really remove that bed did you? Yeah I didn’t think so...look for the sake of your fanbase I think it’s time for you to STOP being lazy, load up your damn frame straightening machine on a flatbed and get your butt down here NOW!!!! (you could pick up some Chinese food on the way be much appreciated)
Are there bushings/spacers or anything between the bed and the frame? Just curious because my frame is perfectly level side to side so the suspension isn’t sagging, but the bed itself sits a half inch lower on the drivers side.
The Sundae Drive Gotcha. Thanks for the reply. Kind of strange that it doesn’t sit level unless the actual mounting brackets were welded onto the frame are unlevel.
How sad that truck owners who buy $50k plus vehicles have to go through all this just because Chevrolet is too cheap to properly prep and paint the frame. I drive a semi with a properly prepped and painted frame. 500,000 miles and not a spec of rust.
The Sundae Drive I definitely would pay for that but with all the profit they make on trucks it should be included. Wear out a car through miles of driving, reasonable. But to have it fall apart and rot is ridiculous. If they sell vehicles in the rust belt then they should be built to withstand the elements.
I'm selling my 2013 silverado with 94k miles because of this. Rockers are already rusting. Replaced both front wheel bearings. Just fixed a fuel leak ontop of the tank. And not only that but it still has the afm to be done. These new trucks are a money pit. And the sad thing is I'm very picky about keeping it clean and maintained. But it doesn't matter with these new ones. They seem to rot no matter what
You must not be watching the videos on why not to use rubberized coating.. I almost made the mistake but I've been researching for the last 2 or 3 weeks...in a perfect world sealing your frame in a rubberized coating sounds great.. but unfortunately rocks and debris will pit and cause your rubberized coating to have failures as well as the potential that you didn't completely seal all nooks and crannies...so water now gets into your rubberized coating and it stays there until a hole leeches it out. So in essence the rubberized coating both keeps water out and keeps water in. I've decided to opt out of rubberized coating and merely use the Ospho to convert the rust and paint... I'm in a southern state so I don't need to do all the annual semi-slick coatings that protect against the winter's salt..
You are correct which is why I painted the frame first with several layers of POR15. That should be impervious to any water, salt, etc. The rubberized coating is really to protect the paint from getting chipped due to debris. It would be a very bad ideas to just do the rubberized undercoating without painting the frame first. Going to hit the truck with fluid film or something equivalent in the winter for some added protection tho. I am jealous that you don't have to deal with the salt and brine we do up here lol.
When you put the tail gate back on we’re there any issues with the back up camera losing the connection? Everything is plugged back in but I have no camera now
On the 8 foot bed I bought, there was another pair of cross braces drilled and equipped with the same mounting system on each side of the tire so 6 bolts each side are possible.. There were 6 cross braces, front pair had 48" spacing and the next 3 had both 39" and 48" spacing and the rear just the 39". Person I bought box from gave me 12 bolts same size then 8 next size bigger of which I could find no holes in bed ot match so assume from bumper...
Can somebody please help me? I’m going to do this to my 2001 Silverado to replace the fuel pump but I’m thinking only do one side but my question is I’m going to use a impact tool but when you reinstall how do you know when to stop tightening the bolts
Tried to take the bed off on my 11 Sierra the welded nuts for the bed just spun when I tried to take the bolts out oh well 😝 at least I know nobody can steal it now
Have you tried swapping the bulbs from the left side to the right side? Might have gotten broke while removing the bed. There is also a line that snakes across the middle, make sure that didn't get cut.
Can't wait for the undercoating video!!!!! I want to do this on my 2014 Silverado but I don't trust most places to remove and seal the rust. Thank you!
It's coming! All done, just have to edit it 👍👍
The only places I would trust are out of my price range lol
The Sundae Drive 😂 I know right!
@@TheSundaeDrive Editing always takes the longest. Looking forward to the video, mine is rusty from being in Connecticut for 3 years and I want to start working on it soon. Just did my transmission fluid/filter yesterday, and spark plugs and rear diff today thanks to your videos, keep it up man!
Awesome! I'm glad they helped. The editing is in progress so fingers crossed I'll get it done in the next couple of weeks.
Thanks for the walkthrough. Did it to my Silverado this past fall. If you don’t have a lift, definitely drop the spare tire and give yourself extra room.
For sure!
Gotta say WELL DONE! People like you these kids are fantastic .. I sadly have to do all this myself on my 2015 Sierra. So thank you very much..
Thanks for the video! The back of my chevy was hit by a loader and I'm replacing the whole thing, (box, bumper, and lights) to save almost $5000. I'm going to be using this video as a reference when I start uninstalling :D
No problem! Best of luck with it and sorry for the accident :(
Thanks for video I’m a mobile mechanic didn’t want to drop the tank to change fuel pump helped a lot 🎉
Glad it helped!
That's my plan.... on my 620k vortec 2014 2500HD
Living in Maine, aka Salty Roadland, i have very little hope of my frame and undercarriage being that clean! Great video, I had no clue what to go after first!
It's tough for us guys in the rust belt. Good luck friend
Curious, what do you figure the bed and tailgate weighs? Considering building a flatbed camper on the back of my sierra 1500 but weight is a consideration.
Unfortunately I'm not exactly sure they aren't light but I would guess the bed itself is probably around 500 lb maybe a little more and the tailgate is probably like 70 lb or so
@TheSundaeDrive thank you so much for the reply! Oh, wow, that's a goof chunk of weight! Thinking of an aluminum build that would probably weight out to around 600lbs, so that's awesome news!
Thank you for a really detailed video.
Very interesting, best video I’ve seen yet!!!! But those holes don’t look like they leave any room for adjustment. If my bed was off a little bit and I wanted to straighten it up I am assuming there is no way to do that because the holes on the bed and frame are exact? Standing by the tail lights and looking forward you can see the cab sticking out on the right side but on the left side there’s no cab exposed so I need to shift the front of the bed an inch to the right!
I do not think it would be easy to adjust unfortunately, the bed is designed to go on one way with the bolts lining up with the holes. There are also alignment pins that need to match up. Was the truck possibly in an accident at some point?
The Sundae Drive first and foremost I would like to tell you how much I appreciate your response!!! It was unexpected :) Correct, 2015 Silverado 2500 crew, ran off the road and sideswiped enbankment but hit bumper first at about a 10 angle (warn winch mount & grill guard took 85% of the impact) even though the bed of the truck wasn’t touched what’s funny is the front left top corner has a funny looking twisted indentation of about an inch or two and the passenger side top corner which had nothing to do with nothing has a protrusion as if you took your thumb and were Superman and pushed out an inch or so. I looked underneath and didn’t see any of the mounts or anything out of place so it looks like when the front driver corner hit (40mph) it did something to the bed via kinetic energy! I had it aligned and everything was fine and the back looks perfectly level it just looks like it kind of shifted but when I look underneath at the bolts and holes and mounts they haven’t moved so it’s kind of bizarre! Truck was paid for and I had just dropped the collision to save money... so it’s a DIY!
That sounds like your frame got twisted slightly by the force of the impact. Most likely you cab and bed also collided and then separated again during initial impact. I'm not sure of that is something that will be easily fixed 😬 I wish you the best of luck with it tho! That stinks :( at least you had the guard on front!
The Sundae Drive something seems VERY amiss to me here with your attitude lately!!! You can’t deny we have grown closer to each other these last couple days?? I mean you made it this far, at this point why stop now??? You start out being very nice, blah blah, cordial & friendly (whatever) and neighborly “yeah RIGHT” just to end abruptly and tell me oh well have a great day??? I simply do NOT understand why you’re not willing to stop what you’re doing, hop in your truck, drive to the mountains of North Carolina and FIX this issue for me!!!! What kind of scam are you running here buddy-boy?!? Talk about a tease!!!! You nonchalantly and very casually post an enticing video (entrapment) showing how easy it is to remove the bed from a truck, yet you’re not willing to come here and do it for me??? After all we’ve been through together? Sounds like a lot of smoke and mirrors you got going on over there. You didn’t really remove that bed did you? Yeah I didn’t think so...look for the sake of your fanbase I think it’s time for you to STOP being lazy, load up your damn frame straightening machine on a flatbed and get your butt down here NOW!!!! (you could pick up some Chinese food on the way be much appreciated)
😂😂 what kind of Chinese? Haha. Have you had any luck with it?
Looks easy enough,now for me to try tomorrow
Good luck with it! Have a few friends over
Nicely done! I need to realign the bumper. Starting to point down.
Do you know if a 2020 bed will fit and bolt up on a 2018?
Sadly I do not.
You rock, thank you for this video. I will do this to my 2007 GMC Sierra.
Best of luck with it!
Was the process similar for that one? I have a 2008 GMC Sierra
Geesh, thx. Couldn't find those two bolts at the gate-end of the bed to save my life (@02:50). Easy-peasy with the bolts out! 🙄
Will I be able to drive without the bed connections being plugged in when the bed is off?
any suggestions on how to remove bed bolt that nut welded came lose so bolt just spins .last bolt amagine that
Aww man, that stinks. Any luck with it? What method did you us if so?
Did you ever figure this out? Have this problem now.
You doing that with a mid torque? M18 ?
How much to do 2016 Sierra standard 6'6" bed size?
How long did it take to get the bed off? You make it look so easy
no more than an hour with enough guys helping.
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks!
No problem!
Are there bushings/spacers or anything between the bed and the frame? Just curious because my frame is perfectly level side to side so the suspension isn’t sagging, but the bed itself sits a half inch lower on the drivers side.
Only some small pucks from what I remember that are maybe 1/4 inch but nothing significant
The Sundae Drive Gotcha. Thanks for the reply. Kind of strange that it doesn’t sit level unless the actual mounting brackets were welded onto the frame are unlevel.
I feel like I've heard of some other people complaining about this on the forums and fb. Maybe dig around a bit, might be a common complaint
How sad that truck owners who buy $50k plus vehicles have to go through all this just because Chevrolet is too cheap to properly prep and paint the frame. I drive a semi with a properly prepped and painted frame. 500,000 miles and not a spec of rust.
Very frustrating. I wish they would at least offer it as an option.
The Sundae Drive I definitely would pay for that but with all the profit they make on trucks it should be included. Wear out a car through miles of driving, reasonable. But to have it fall apart and rot is ridiculous. If they sell vehicles in the rust belt then they should be built to withstand the elements.
Agree sir!
I'm selling my 2013 silverado with 94k miles because of this. Rockers are already rusting. Replaced both front wheel bearings. Just fixed a fuel leak ontop of the tank. And not only that but it still has the afm to be done. These new trucks are a money pit. And the sad thing is I'm very picky about keeping it clean and maintained. But it doesn't matter with these new ones. They seem to rot no matter what
That stinks man. They are definitely a lot of work to maintain
Can 2 guys take off the tailgate or do you actually need 4 guys ?
You must not be watching the videos on why not to use rubberized coating..
I almost made the mistake but I've been researching for the last 2 or 3 weeks...in a perfect world sealing your frame in a rubberized coating sounds great.. but unfortunately rocks and debris will pit and cause your rubberized coating to have failures as well as the potential that you didn't completely seal all nooks and crannies...so water now gets into your rubberized coating and it stays there until a hole leeches it out. So in essence the rubberized coating both keeps water out and keeps water in.
I've decided to opt out of rubberized coating and merely use the Ospho to convert the rust and paint...
I'm in a southern state so I don't need to do all the annual semi-slick coatings that protect against the winter's salt..
You are correct which is why I painted the frame first with several layers of POR15. That should be impervious to any water, salt, etc. The rubberized coating is really to protect the paint from getting chipped due to debris. It would be a very bad ideas to just do the rubberized undercoating without painting the frame first. Going to hit the truck with fluid film or something equivalent in the winter for some added protection tho. I am jealous that you don't have to deal with the salt and brine we do up here lol.
When you put the tail gate back on we’re there any issues with the back up camera losing the connection? Everything is plugged back in but I have no camera now
No issues at all. Try unhooking the battery for a minute to reset the ECU.
The Sundae Drive finally found it, it was the fuse, thanks!
Awesome! Nice when it's an easy fix
Putting a 2015 bed onto my 77 square using highway sign posts to widen the frame to use the newer wider bed spacing...
On the 8 foot bed I bought, there was another pair of cross braces drilled and equipped with the same mounting system on each side of the tire so 6 bolts each side are possible.. There were 6 cross braces, front pair had 48" spacing and the next 3 had both 39" and 48" spacing and the rear just the 39". Person I bought box from gave me 12 bolts same size then 8 next size bigger of which I could find no holes in bed ot match so assume from bumper...
Can somebody please help me? I’m going to do this to my 2001 Silverado to replace the fuel pump but I’m thinking only do one side but my question is I’m going to use a impact tool but when you reinstall how do you know when to stop tightening the bolts
Great video .
Thanks! Hope it helped!
Where is the second bolt under the front of the bed?
How much does the box actually weigh?
Can’t believe no ones mentioned how much he looks like Seth Rogan lol
😂😂 never got that one before.
What size socket is that
18mm
Thanks for responding!
Tried to take the bed off on my 11 Sierra the welded nuts for the bed just spun when I tried to take the bolts out oh well 😝 at least I know nobody can steal it now
Ahh that stinks. We had some issues with Pete's 04, had to get some vice grips on some of the nuts for the trailer hitch
@@TheSundaeDrive it's alright if I really need to get it off one day I'll take the blue wrench to it and just melt it off
@@foxbodyguyeightyeight3672 check and make sure you don’t have a gas leak. My 2012 is puking bad so no hot wrench. ☹️
Thank you
Glad it helped!
Im getting ready to do one and this came in really useful
The undercoating guide will be up in the next to weeks too 👍😉
Thank
glad to help!
Why do I always find the year before the one I need. Does nobody work on 2019
Is it the new 2019 body style or the 18 body style? If the old body style it's the same. As the 14-18
Maybe one day we'll buy a 2019+gen to make content on. Just too busy to add another vehicle at this point.
Hey I did this, and now my right blinker is not working properly.
Please help.
I have no idea why it would do this. The plugs only go in one way.
Have you tried swapping the bulbs from the left side to the right side? Might have gotten broke while removing the bed. There is also a line that snakes across the middle, make sure that didn't get cut.
@@TheSundaeDrive I'll give that a shot thanks!!
Got if fixed.
The ground was covered in undercoating.
Grinded it off and it works now.
Awesome! Glad you were able to get it working 👍👍
Thx
Np!
You cant remove the bumper until the bed is either lifted or off…
Well fuck I don’t have 5 friends to help lift my long bed!
Get like 5 Uber eats and have the drivers stay and lift lol
@@TheSundaeDrive 😂 🤔
2019 Silverado std tailgate removal , is a lot of cussing
That bad? Is this the standard tailgate or the multipro? On the plus side, it is harder to steal that way! What is different about it?