There’s no use in lying about it - I’m a child. Of course I was going to have to pause & spend five minutes laughing my head off. 😂 Well done Brad! You might just have given me the confidence to go ahead and try this. I’ve been nervously wanting to modify my Tele & add a string-thru-body bridge. How hard is it to then enlarge the hole in order to add the ferrules? Are sizes standard at all?
I've been really wanting to do this lately too, but I don't own any tools beyond a basic bag... a set of screwdrivers, a wrench or two and a hammer. :P It looks like a lot of fun though.
The two outside holes on the bottom don't have to perfectly match up to the bridge. If they don't just draw a straight line center to center and evenly space the other four holes. The holes on the bottom will be close enough to the top ones that the strings will still go through. Enjoy your videos and here's hoping 2021 will be better than 2020!
Hey Brad.. not sure if anyone mentioned or not but a low cost center punch kit guarantees the mark the holes in CENTER especially on critical jobs..and each center punch fits the holes exactly of various diameters.. cheers man..!! But those drill guides are also very handy.. I use 10 and 11 mm guides for repairing a tuner hole gone bad
My drill press is crap as it's too small and can't find a decent one I can for a body on (hobby budget), that's a nice piece of scrap wood your using there in my world that's a good bit of wood 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂😂🤣🤣😂🤣😂. Oh oh oh oh want one of those hole guides never knew they existed 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
Hi! There Brad, are the ferrules are for a hardtail bridge? And do the hardtail bridge needs a ground wire under them just like Bass bridges have? Thanks! Happy Blessed day!
You can set up a plunge router to drill thru holes, don't use a standard drill bit, I use a collet made for CNC routers and a 1/8 spiral extra long bit
I’ve got a .ca thing, but I haven’t had a chance to add all of these things there. In fact I’m not really sure how to use it. They’re supposed to be linked, but it’s probably best to just switch to Canada once you’re in there or ignore my link entirely if your using .ca.
You mentioned the lack of small diameter brad point bits, they are readily available in 135 degree split point designs. These are self centering and can be used in place of brad point bits.
Hey Brad I love your videos. However, don't the ferrules need a counterbore on the back? Mine do - 3/8" Flush Mount. i'd like to see how you approach that. Thanks, Byron (not Anna) Stafford.
It depends on what ferrules you get, but yes some require a larger hole in the back. Just use a larger bit and the guide and drill them out part way. Use a piece of masking tape on the bit to mark depth.
Fortunately I have a lathe in my shop. I plan to make an alignment tool to center the drill block to the 1/8 hole, stuck in place with double-side tape. I also have the same drill guide as yours to finish the holes. Given the space between the 3/8 holes is only 1.09mm without such a tool it would be fraught with danger. Even with my tools, not breaking out the wall between the counterbores will require care. I plan to overcome this by installing the ferrules as I go. Thanks for all you do.@@BradAngove
I plan to drill each hole to half-depth with a Brad Point Drill then use a Forstner bit to finish the counterbore. I'll use a depth-stop collar to control the depth of stage-1 and the larger drill guide for stage-2. Then my Alignmenet tool will also function as a Ferrule Driver. One snag - notched side of my drill guide block is hollow. I'll place a small piece of wood across the back to allow for depth control, even simple tape would be tricky otherwise. Depth stop collars were $4.99 USD per set at Harbor Freight.
I have used similar tools to drill my projects, they work really well, but I used the superglue and masking tape trick - Crimson Guitars - to.make sure it did not move. Brad, I have a paint question. I am planning to use pearl paint on my guitar - purple colour. The question I have is should I paint a matt purple coat after the primer, gently sand it down - 1000 grit - before I apply the pearl paint? I am asking this because I only have one aerosol tin - 500ml - of the pearl, but I can easily get the flat colour. Also, what clear coat would you advise - if you would use a clear coat. Great videomas usual, many thanks in advance of the answer.
Yes I would put down the matte first to help get the pearl even more easily. 800 or 1000 grit should work. I would use clear coat, but the type depends on what paint you’re using and what you’re after in terms of a finished product.
Where's the rest of it? My painted Tele guitar body needs the string holes on the back enlarged so I can install the standard Fender string ferrules. I want to make sure when I enlarge the holes that the holes stay straight in line and the ferrules fit properly.
We call em "wood drills" here in Sweden. Easy to come by and get, cause we are a "wood" country. I recomend try get them from Sweden if you have problem find em 🤘
Great tips. I'm building two guitars at the moment. A PRS style that I went with a Tele style half bridge top loader. And a flying v with stop bar tail piece. Seems like I dodged making a string through for now. But this was a good tutorial that I'll save for future reference.☺☺☺
Hi Brad. I used this thing holding it properly, but although the top holes seems well aligned, looking at the back the holes aren't straight for sure :(((
With these thin bits that is a concern. They tend to shift/migrate on their way through the wood. That’s why I only drill half way from the front and half way through the back if possible.
If you don’t want or need this stuff, don’t buy it. I’ve tried showing how to do things without talking about what I’m using, and I just ended up getting tons of questions about what I used. Now I try to remember to explain that part as well. When I started explaining what I was using, people started asking for links. Now I try to cover that too.
No, I wouldn’t be. The number of people who ask for and benefit from information about the tools and where to get them exceeds the number who complain about it by an order of magnitude. I do this to help people. Three of you have complained about it in the last several years. That’s about 2% of the number of people who have complained that I haven’t taken the time to direct them to where they can get stuff outside of the USA.
Well done Brad! You might just have given me the confidence to go ahead and try this. I’ve been nervously wanting to modify my Tele & add a string-thru-body bridge. How hard is it to then enlarge the hole in order to add the ferrules? Are sizes standard at all?
When I worked at Cessna doing sheet metal work we had sets of drill guides that look basically like inverted shot glasses with four little feet on them and a metal bushing sized to various drill sizes. You just put the thing on the part, stick your drill into it and hold it steady against the part, line it up with the mark and drill. Was able to drill LOTS of holes really fast with that. Granted it's sheet metal, so significantly less impacted by being off angle. In fact, we wouldn't really use those for the thin sheet, only for the thicker parts, but they worked really well. I'm sure they are cheaper than a drill press and even a set of them is probably cheaper than the hand drill presses like this one. Obviously, having a drill press is going to be the best option, but for the budget conscious it might be a good idea. Could probably even make your own with blocks of wood by shaping them and putting holes in them on someone else's drill press. Lots of cities have maker spaces now days that you could use for this. Looks like the easiest way to find what I'm talking about is to google "drill guide cup"
Why do you recommend the "meet in the middle" drilling technique for the 1/8" hole? The first two were drilled all the way through the body. If all holes were drilled like the first two, only backside drilling is to make the hole large enough for the ferrule. This should cover any jagged holes from the 1/8" bit. Correct?
The meet in the middle option is safer in terms of keeping the holes straight because 1/8” bits tend to wander a bit. If it weren’t such a pain to measure the outside two I would have used the same technique for them. But yes, the backside drilling will remove any tear our.
Brad, I know I moaned at you for ages to show me this. You remembered😀 I will practice on scrap wood first, but I’m sure I can do this now. Thank you 👍👍
I could not get consistent results just using just my milescraft and the bridge as a guide, and I'm so glad I found this video. This is such a clever and useful technique. I've got the big gator V-drill guide en route along with a deep throated clamp to help me hold it steady. I will see how it goes. Definitely going to work on finding a drill press for my next string through but you're right that it's hard to find one with a big enough bed to make the center of a body accessible. It will be good to figure out if I can do this "by hand" first and have that skillset in my back pocket. Thank you so much for this runthrough.
Am I the only one that blew on my screen, trying to blow the shavings off the top? Brad, great info, well filmed, well done, much appreciated. I could have used it two months ago, but hey, I figured it out. I'll know more next time, and it will be easier and cleaner. Thanks so much!
Brad, are you going to use ferrules that are flush or that stick up? I'd like to know how to drill holes for recessed ferrules with out using the 3/8ths inch cheater ferrules. Happy 2021!
Probably the ones that stick up, but I’ll see what I have. If you want to drop for the others you just use a forstner bit to do the final hole to recess them. You need a press option for that you because the bit won’t center without it.
Great video mate but I actually throw a small screw in the end hols to hold the bridge ( through the string hole) just to make sure nothing moves. All the best mate for the new year! Seems like 5 minutes since I said this last year,,,,.
If you put 2 1/8 bits or wooden dowels thru the holes you drilled all the way thru , then you can position you bridge on them and it will stay in place when you mark the other holes on the back.
One thing I learned in shop class is to let the bit do the work for you putting just enough pressure to make sure you don't wallow out the hole. And if your drilling through maki g sure you don't end up with tear out do to to much pressure.
An excellent example of getting it right the first time, I was pretty pissed off when I got my drill press and found the throat too small for ferrule work but every other hole and hogging out and even spindle sanding and also it will with attachments can press in frets it has been a godsend.
Great video series. Question: why didn't you just drill all six holes straight through--since you had the drill press jig anyway? If everything aligns correctly, your method would work--but since the goal is to get a clean thru-hole, it would seem safer to just do it all from one side. I guess the spacing on the back is important to make sure the eventual ferrules will be evenly spaced, but with your drill press setup, I would think that shouldn't be too big of a deal?
Thin bits tend to migrate sideways a bit on their way through thick pieces. An 1/8” bit is unlikely to come out the other side perfectly in line no matter what drill press you use. It’s too flexible.
@@BradAngove Fair enough. With my luck, though, I'd miss and the two sides wouldn't meet! But, good point about the thin bits and migration--need to think about this. I'm literally about to do this task on my first build (for the Great Guitar Build Off), and seeing this video was perfect timing. Thanks!
The problem with doing it this way is it is extremely hard to have a larger drill bit center on a smaller hole to make the countersink for the ferrule. You need to drill the 2 outside holes all the way through first with the smaller bit and then flip the body over to mark the inside holes just as he did. But the next holes you drill should be the larger countersink holes. Then you can choose to either drill through the front or back for the smaller holes. However, you can drill the larger holes after the smaller holes if you use a drill press with the workpiece clamped.
I’ve found with typical bits (not bradpoint) it’s not all that difficult to center them. Doing it completely handheld would be quite challenging though.
@@BradAngove I have found the bit will "walk around before settling down into the wood and that has caused off center holes. I'd prefer to use forstner bits if I had a choice, but those walk even more
@@BradAngove no I did use one of those guide press similar to the one you have only in this one you have to clamp the drill directly to it, but I did not have the metal guide to start with.... so it went off, I think I would use one of those block insert to make it look straight.
How come you never showed the finished holes, I wanted to see if it really all lined up on the back or if the holes drifted out of line. I have a feeling they didn't line up, that's why you didn't show it! Not a great video Brad if you're not going to show the finished results you claim to have accomplished with those tools! I'm just saying!
Not sure what you were expecting here buddy. I showed how to do it. If it hadn’t worked I wouldn’t have posted it. This guitar was for a client haha. Sorry about your “feeling”, but if you don’t like the technique don’t use it.
“When you’re going in from the back it’s a little bit interesting making sure you have the right hole.”
And stop pulling out!
Hahaha
When editing this I was wondering how long it would take for these comments to start up haha. Not long apparently.
There’s no use in lying about it - I’m a child. Of course I was going to have to pause & spend five minutes laughing my head off. 😂
Well done Brad! You might just have given me the confidence to go ahead and try this. I’ve been nervously wanting to modify my Tele & add a string-thru-body bridge. How hard is it to then enlarge the hole in order to add the ferrules? Are sizes standard at all?
Haha - I was all happy with myself typing the same thing then I saw Dean beat me to it
A couple of spare 1/8" bits make great locating pins when aligning the bridge on the back to mark the middle holes.
It's also easier with the saddles removed as well....
I think this is an essential step.
A brad-point. How nice it must be to have a drill-point named after you. (BTW A happy and healthy 2021) Rob
Haha happy new year Rob
Never made a guitar before but Ive been watching this channel for a couple years now and I'm getting ready to have a crack at it 👍
I hope it goes well for you.
I've been really wanting to do this lately too, but I don't own any tools beyond a basic bag... a set of screwdrivers, a wrench or two and a hammer. :P It looks like a lot of fun though.
You don’t need much if you’re doing a kit guitar instead of one of these parts builds.
Saved this video immediately!
I use a plastic Dremel tool plunge router base and drill bit combo and get perfectly plumb vertical holes every time.
Nice.
That's what she said
That's almost exactly how I do it. I think you may be biased on that whole brad point thing! Nothing wrong with good old fashioned pilot holes.
Hahaha maybe a bit biased yes
5:41 , thats what she said
When I didn't have a lot of tools I used a strat trem tone block to guide the drill bit. I still use it every now and then.
That’s a great idea! Nice one.
That is a good idea!
Just in time for 2021 and I even get to use a new tool to drill the ferrule holes! Thanks Brad...Happy New Year!
Cheers Tom. Happy new year!
The two outside holes on the bottom don't have to perfectly match up to the bridge. If they don't just draw a straight line center to center and evenly space the other four holes. The holes on the bottom will be close enough to the top ones that the strings will still go through. Enjoy your videos and here's hoping 2021 will be better than 2020!
Hey Brad.. not sure if anyone mentioned or not but a low cost center punch kit guarantees the mark the holes in CENTER especially on critical jobs..and each center punch fits the holes exactly of various diameters.. cheers man..!! But those drill guides are also very handy.. I use 10 and 11 mm guides for repairing a tuner hole gone bad
My drill press is crap as it's too small and can't find a decent one I can for a body on (hobby budget), that's a nice piece of scrap wood your using there in my world that's a good bit of wood 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂😂🤣🤣😂🤣😂. Oh oh oh oh want one of those hole guides never knew they existed 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
Great job Brad. Always another solution to get around things.
No comment today, just wishing you a Happy new year Brad!
Happy new year
I tried drilling, but the Green Party protested me. So I went with Solar and Hydroelectric.⬅(Fancy word.)
Gotta love a good fancy word
Jig upside down.😉
Hi! There Brad, are the ferrules are for a hardtail bridge? And do the hardtail bridge needs a ground wire under them just like Bass bridges have? Thanks! Happy Blessed day!
Yes and yes Raymond.
You can set up a plunge router to drill thru holes, don't use a standard drill bit, I use a collet made for CNC routers and a 1/8 spiral extra long bit
Intriguing idea. Lining that up sounds difficult. Do you use something in particular for that?
if you can drill the outer holes all the way through from the front, why cant you do all of them that way?
Small bits tend to wonder when going though thick pieces. You run the risk of them not being spaced evenly at the back.
Brad, your commission link for Amazon is for .com ... do you have one for .ca ?
I’ve got a .ca thing, but I haven’t had a chance to add all of these things there. In fact I’m not really sure how to use it. They’re supposed to be linked, but it’s probably best to just switch to Canada once you’re in there or ignore my link entirely if your using .ca.
If you want to play a joke on your girlfriend, send her in to get a 'classic' bit. Twist drill is the common term.
That’s what I was thinking
Much more accurate
And exactly what I needed to see as I’m ready to mount the bridge on a telecaster build
Thanks much !!!
You mentioned the lack of small diameter brad point bits, they are readily available in 135 degree split point designs. These are self centering and can be used in place of brad point bits.
Thanks
5:42 "When you're going from the back, it's a little bit more interesting making sure you have the right hole every time."
Couldn't agree more Brad.
... just have to poke lightly at first I guess...
😂😂😂
Are you left-handed? or is it that it is better to press down the guide with your dominant hand and drill with the, not-so-dexterous one?
For running a drill I can do either but I’m generally left handed for that particular task.
Hey Brad I love your videos. However, don't the ferrules need a counterbore on the back? Mine do - 3/8" Flush Mount. i'd like to see how you approach that. Thanks, Byron (not Anna) Stafford.
It depends on what ferrules you get, but yes some require a larger hole in the back. Just use a larger bit and the guide and drill them out part way. Use a piece of masking tape on the bit to mark depth.
Fortunately I have a lathe in my shop. I plan to make an alignment tool to center the drill block to the 1/8 hole, stuck in place with double-side tape. I also have the same drill guide as yours to finish the holes. Given the space between the 3/8 holes is only 1.09mm without such a tool it would be fraught with danger. Even with my tools, not breaking out the wall between the counterbores will require care. I plan to overcome this by installing the ferrules as I go. Thanks for all you do.@@BradAngove
I plan to drill each hole to half-depth with a Brad Point Drill then use a Forstner bit to finish the counterbore. I'll use a depth-stop collar to control the depth of stage-1 and the larger drill guide for stage-2. Then my Alignmenet tool will also function as a Ferrule Driver. One snag - notched side of my drill guide block is hollow. I'll place a small piece of wood across the back to allow for depth control, even simple tape would be tricky otherwise. Depth stop collars were $4.99 USD per set at Harbor Freight.
I have used similar tools to drill my projects, they work really well, but I used the superglue and masking tape trick - Crimson Guitars - to.make sure it did not move.
Brad, I have a paint question. I am planning to use pearl paint on my guitar - purple colour. The question I have is should I paint a matt purple coat after the primer, gently sand it down - 1000 grit - before I apply the pearl paint?
I am asking this because I only have one aerosol tin - 500ml - of the pearl, but I can easily get the flat colour.
Also, what clear coat would you advise - if you would use a clear coat.
Great videomas usual, many thanks in advance of the answer.
Yes I would put down the matte first to help get the pearl even more easily. 800 or 1000 grit should work.
I would use clear coat, but the type depends on what paint you’re using and what you’re after in terms of a finished product.
@@BradAngove
You are a megastar, many thanks. I am in Scotland, it's -6 Celsius so I will wait till it heats up a little bit.
Where's the rest of it? My painted Tele guitar body needs the string holes on the back enlarged so I can install the standard Fender string ferrules. I want to make sure when I enlarge the holes that the holes stay straight in line and the ferrules fit properly.
Just use the drill guide/press and ensure that you are centered on the hole before you drill.
ha I was wondering the exact same thing...same issue here.
We call em "wood drills" here in Sweden. Easy to come by and get, cause we are a "wood" country.
I recomend try get them from Sweden if you have problem find em
🤘
What is the reason to only drill all the way through ONLY on the ends (on the top side) ?
They’re just used as locators. I would rather not drill all the way through anywhere, but it is really hard to line up if you try to do that.
@@BradAngove Thanks so much Brad - I love your videos !
Great tips. I'm building two guitars at the moment. A PRS style that I went with a Tele style half bridge top loader. And a flying v with stop bar tail piece. Seems like I dodged making a string through for now. But this was a good tutorial that I'll save for future reference.☺☺☺
Is that a bolt on. Trying to find out how to do a set in neck and specs.
This is going to be a bolt on. That doesn’t necessarily affect the bridge though per se.
thanks bro that was a great video what size drill bit for the holes is it 1/8 Drill Bit thanks again
Yes it’s 1/8”
thanks brad
What is the reason for not doing all 6 from the front (like the outer two)?
Thin bits tend to wonder a bit going through thick pieces of wood, so they may not stay straight all the way through.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad
Oh man I need to get one of those yeah I definitely need to get one of those
Hi Brad. I used this thing holding it properly, but although the top holes seems well aligned, looking at the back the holes aren't straight for sure :(((
With these thin bits that is a concern. They tend to shift/migrate on their way through the wood. That’s why I only drill half way from the front and half way through the back if possible.
The "Angove Advertorial Show"
If you don’t want or need this stuff, don’t buy it. I’ve tried showing how to do things without talking about what I’m using, and I just ended up getting tons of questions about what I used. Now I try to remember to explain that part as well. When I started explaining what I was using, people started asking for links. Now I try to cover that too.
@@BradAngove It takes up our viewing time Brad just run a comment at the end !
you would be pissed if some other channel did the same thing
No, I wouldn’t be. The number of people who ask for and benefit from information about the tools and where to get them exceeds the number who complain about it by an order of magnitude. I do this to help people.
Three of you have complained about it in the last several years. That’s about 2% of the number of people who have complained that I haven’t taken the time to direct them to where they can get stuff outside of the USA.
Well done Brad! You might just have given me the confidence to go ahead and try this. I’ve been nervously wanting to modify my Tele & add a string-thru-body bridge. How hard is it to then enlarge the hole in order to add the ferrules? Are sizes standard at all?
That button looks good on that wall. Congrats again and happy new year.
When I worked at Cessna doing sheet metal work we had sets of drill guides that look basically like inverted shot glasses with four little feet on them and a metal bushing sized to various drill sizes. You just put the thing on the part, stick your drill into it and hold it steady against the part, line it up with the mark and drill. Was able to drill LOTS of holes really fast with that. Granted it's sheet metal, so significantly less impacted by being off angle. In fact, we wouldn't really use those for the thin sheet, only for the thicker parts, but they worked really well. I'm sure they are cheaper than a drill press and even a set of them is probably cheaper than the hand drill presses like this one.
Obviously, having a drill press is going to be the best option, but for the budget conscious it might be a good idea. Could probably even make your own with blocks of wood by shaping them and putting holes in them on someone else's drill press. Lots of cities have maker spaces now days that you could use for this.
Looks like the easiest way to find what I'm talking about is to google "drill guide cup"
That’s very cool. Ive never seen those. I’ll have to look.
I just did a string through guitar last month and without a drill press and ain't that perfect I mean I wish that I had this video before that
Did it go okay?
Why do you recommend the "meet in the middle" drilling technique for the 1/8" hole? The first two were drilled all the way through the body. If all holes were drilled like the first two, only backside drilling is to make the hole large enough for the ferrule. This should cover any jagged holes from the 1/8" bit. Correct?
The meet in the middle option is safer in terms of keeping the holes straight because 1/8” bits tend to wander a bit. If it weren’t such a pain to measure the outside two I would have used the same technique for them.
But yes, the backside drilling will remove any tear our.
Good video man, Happy New Year buddy, be safe🤘🍺🍺
Happy new year boss.
Brad, I know I moaned at you for ages to show me this. You remembered😀 I will practice on scrap wood first, but I’m sure I can do this now. Thank you 👍👍
Cheers Andy
I could not get consistent results just using just my milescraft and the bridge as a guide, and I'm so glad I found this video. This is such a clever and useful technique.
I've got the big gator V-drill guide en route along with a deep throated clamp to help me hold it steady. I will see how it goes. Definitely going to work on finding a drill press for my next string through but you're right that it's hard to find one with a big enough bed to make the center of a body accessible. It will be good to figure out if I can do this "by hand" first and have that skillset in my back pocket. Thank you so much for this runthrough.
Glad I could help. Cheers.
Am I the only one that blew on my screen, trying to blow the shavings off the top? Brad, great info, well filmed, well done, much appreciated. I could have used it two months ago, but hey, I figured it out. I'll know more next time, and it will be easier and cleaner. Thanks so much!
Haha I hope you’re not the only one. That’s hilarious.
Brad, are you going to use ferrules that are flush or that stick up? I'd like to know how to drill holes for recessed ferrules with out using the 3/8ths inch cheater ferrules. Happy 2021!
Probably the ones that stick up, but I’ll see what I have. If you want to drop for the others you just use a forstner bit to do the final hole to recess them. You need a press option for that you because the bit won’t center without it.
Great video mate but I actually throw a small screw in the end hols to hold the bridge ( through the string hole) just to make sure nothing moves. All the best mate for the new year! Seems like 5 minutes since I said this last year,,,,.
Cheers Stu. Happy new year.
I literally just got to this step! Thanks!
That drill guide would be handy for drilling bolt on necks. Happy New Year!
Yeah, it’s a nice option for that.
Your new best friends from Colorado, the Coors Lite boys, have a recent video on a cool little gizmo for this same purpose.
Nice; I’ll have to check that out.
Happy new year! May God bless you with many grandchildren!
... sounds like an expensive year
If you put 2 1/8 bits or wooden dowels thru the holes you drilled all the way thru , then you can position you bridge on them and it will stay in place when you mark the other holes on the back.
Intriguing idea
One thing I learned in shop class is to let the bit do the work for you putting just enough pressure to make sure you don't wallow out the hole. And if your drilling through maki g sure you don't end up with tear out do to to much pressure.
Sharp bits also help.
32nd.
I love you
And I love spending time with you
An excellent example of getting it right the first time, I was pretty pissed off when I got my drill press and found the throat too small for ferrule work but every other hole and hogging out and even spindle sanding and also it will with attachments can press in frets it has been a godsend.
Using one as a fret press is a nice option
Great video Brad - super helpful buddy!!! Have a happy new year!!!
Thanks Jay. Happy new year.
Happy New Year Brad thanks for the videos they have really given me the confidence to undertake a guitar building project!
Glad to hear it!
'Brad' point bit. I see what you did there 😏
Haha I didn’t name them
Dude thanks so much. ,you have an awesome channel
Thanks. Glad you like it.
Great video series. Question: why didn't you just drill all six holes straight through--since you had the drill press jig anyway? If everything aligns correctly, your method would work--but since the goal is to get a clean thru-hole, it would seem safer to just do it all from one side. I guess the spacing on the back is important to make sure the eventual ferrules will be evenly spaced, but with your drill press setup, I would think that shouldn't be too big of a deal?
Thin bits tend to migrate sideways a bit on their way through thick pieces. An 1/8” bit is unlikely to come out the other side perfectly in line no matter what drill press you use. It’s too flexible.
@@BradAngove Fair enough. With my luck, though, I'd miss and the two sides wouldn't meet! But, good point about the thin bits and migration--need to think about this. I'm literally about to do this task on my first build (for the Great Guitar Build Off), and seeing this video was perfect timing. Thanks!
Glad I could help… hopefully
No way i could make my build without your channel bro thanks
Glad I could help
The problem with doing it this way is it is extremely hard to have a larger drill bit center on a smaller hole to make the countersink for the ferrule. You need to drill the 2 outside holes all the way through first with the smaller bit and then flip the body over to mark the inside holes just as he did. But the next holes you drill should be the larger countersink holes. Then you can choose to either drill through the front or back for the smaller holes. However, you can drill the larger holes after the smaller holes if you use a drill press with the workpiece clamped.
I’ve found with typical bits (not bradpoint) it’s not all that difficult to center them. Doing it completely handheld would be quite challenging though.
@@BradAngove I have found the bit will "walk around before settling down into the wood and that has caused off center holes. I'd prefer to use forstner bits if I had a choice, but those walk even more
Yeah those go all over the place if there’s a hole already there haha.
Love this episode. ✌️🎸😎🙂
Glad to hear it
Good point Brad re brad point.
It’s helpful for sure
Happy new year man!!
Happy new year
Nice tutorial Brad, maybe to be followed up with what to do when you f-up like I did in my telecaster:)
What happened?
@@BradAngove holes not in line, :)
Oh, did you try to just drill all the way straight through.
@@BradAngove no I did use one of those guide press similar to the one you have only in this one you have to clamp the drill directly to it, but I did not have the metal guide to start with.... so it went off, I think I would use one of those block insert to make it look straight.
Those are pretty cool.
Happy new year Matt🤐
Matt?
@@BradAngove , ok... the other guy 🤐
Charles was it?
@@BradAngove , you know we love ya Mrs Toast 🤐
How come you never showed the finished holes, I wanted to see if it really all lined up on the back or if the holes drifted out of line. I have a feeling they didn't line up, that's why you didn't show it! Not a great video Brad if you're not going to show the finished results you claim to have accomplished with those tools! I'm just saying!
Not sure what you were expecting here buddy. I showed how to do it. If it hadn’t worked I wouldn’t have posted it. This guitar was for a client haha. Sorry about your “feeling”, but if you don’t like the technique don’t use it.