Wow sounds load with lots of sparks- I’ve been playing with pulse mig at school and when u find the sweet spot it’s very quiet with little to no spatter or sparks
Not quite what I was hoping for. Still doesn't answer my question if I should spend the extra money for pulse feature and a little extra thickness capability of something in the 200 amp range. We use a Multimatic 220 AC/DC at work that is a great welder that does a lot. I was entertaining the thought of purchasing my own dedicated mig and dedicated tig machine because I think I'd like some of the features on the Dynasty. Granted big price difference between buying 2 separate welders, vs. like our Multimatic 220, but a little more capability on both ends.
You shouldn't have fireworks, it's the wire!!! I just bought a Millermatic 255 to upgrade my Hobart Handler 210MVP. It short circuit MIGs great, and pulse MIG uphill was fine, but anything flat, horizontal, or downhill was a firework show like this video, with sparks, spatter, and porosity problems. Super disappointing. After much searching online forums, I came across somebody who had similar problems with the pulse function on the 255. After 7 months of back and forth with distributors and Miller, he threw a new spool of Lincoln L-56 .035 wire in the machine, and all problems disappeared. I tried the same thing, and it fixed all my problems as well! I had a roll of .035 Hobart wire on the machine that had been on the shelf for about 4 years, and it works perfect on short circuit MIG, but there must be very slight amounts of corrosion that mess with the pulse function. Attn: Baker's Gas: this video was not a fair representation of the machine's capabilities, and is possibly leading many potential buyers away from the process. I believe it would be in your best interest to throw a new spool of Lincoln L-56 wire in the machine and create a follow-up video with the pulse MIG function properly documented. Thank you!
Also I have found that the default Arc Length of 50 is great for horizontal and uphill, but I need to increase the arc length when traveling downhill or it short circuits and spatters. 75 works good for me.
I had an old linclon 200 mig. Was having all kinds of problems with how it welded. I installed new capacitors, liner,tips nothing improved it. Got a new roll of L56. That thing immediately started welding like a brand new machine. I recently bought a millermatic 255 and i have not used it to the point of being familure with it and how if welds. I didn't insist on a roll of L56 when i got it. But the first chance i have to get back to the welding supply im going to pick up a roll of L56. I bet it makes a world of difference in how the 255 welds. I think the new roll that i got when i bought the welder will become tie wire. I will not buy any other than the linclon L56 from now on for everyday welding. Supposedly the ASW number says it is supposed to be same even from different brands. Maybe so but it will be L56 for me from now on.
@@garytodd5605 Do you plan on using the pulse mig function much? When it's working good (L56), it is really nice because there is no spatter. Interesting humming sound too. Not sure why, but it brings every fly in the shop to come die on my hot workpiece. It can be pretty annoying when a fly falls into your molten weld pool...
I agree on the L56 wire. My machine loves that wire. I just got a miller gas mixer to mix my own gas I'm now pretty much only pules mig everything. Lol except for the first tac welds
Try letting the MiG gun breathe, pulse needs more distance between the MiG gun and weld pool. The video was suffering from that mistake. Hard to override muscle memory though lol.
The millermatic is slightly cheaper than the multi-matic but it'll depend on what you want to do. Pulse helps with thinner metals and on some specific tasks, personally if i'm going to drop the coin i'd prefer the pulse. If you decide you don't like the pulse or don't need it afterwards, you can always shut it off.
On your vertical welds it looked like you were going vertical DOWN - did I mis-see that? I thought you had to go vertical UP. Related, did you weave the vertical welds? Asking because I'm practicing on my Millermatic 350P to do some vertical welding in pulse mode (0.035" wire; 90/10 gas). I've got good equipment, light in the skill department. And, there's not a lot of information on pulsed MIG on steel. Regardless, please let me know if you were vertical welding up or down; and if you were weaving. Thanks!
Thanks for watching Troy! We actually made one a while ago when this machine first came out. Check it out and let us know what you think. ruclips.net/video/8ZLcmA3EVX8/видео.html
The only Multiprocess 200 we know is the Miller Multimatic 200 ;) If you are looking for a good multi process machine let us know and we can help find a good fit for you.
Thank you for the great video. Question about stick out with this machine and running pulse. How much stick out do you have when welding on pulse mode? I’ve read 3/4ths of an inch.
Id say with your technique of head so close the fumes coming off you need to step up to and Adflo style helmet, where i work its adflo only policy so there's no opinion/preference dilution to safe practices. Maybe you need to watch your own material to see what i mean !
@@sbranham86 The propulse 220 can't do more than 200-210 amps (the multimatic can reach 320-350 amps but it's best duty cycle is around 250). The P.P. machines are nice but the equivalent to this is actually the 300 and the PP 300 costs 1500 more than the multimatic 255 does. The Propulse machines have more presets for different mig/tig operations by far.
@@sbranham86 I had a HTP spool gun for aluminum I loved but parts were not available. Miller parts can be bought. I bought 2 255`s because of this. One for aluminum with the Alumapro gun and another 255 for strictly metal welding. All because they forced me to purchase a complete spool gun system because no parts could be supplied.
I have the Multimatic 255 and you will get less spatter when it is set up correctly and you run a longer stickout. I found that on thinner material (1/8th inch for example) I need more arc length than the autoset suggests. On 1/4 inch steel, the autoset settings work fine for me.
What's up with all the sparks? Pulsed Mig is an open arc transfer and there should be NO sparks, No crackle and No spatter. The Autoset parameters on the Millermatic 255 are complete garbage!! Turning the arc length to 70 still drives the wire into the puddle creating a mess. I have to use manual settings and go over 75 just to get an open arc!
I have found running a 91/5/4 really makes the pulse work really good and can keep a shorter arc length works on auto set as long as the ark length is around 55-69. With auto set off I have my machine set up using auto run in, 25-35 arc control depending on what type of weld you are doing and 49-69 arc length depending on what wire speed you are running, You can also run an .030 wire on manual mode. Just have to adjust the run in to 100, arc control to about 25-32 and arc length around 45-55. Really makes a clean true pulse weld.
I like how it Sounds like and Old Lincoln Buzz Box.
It isn't always that noisy on pulse.
Looks like you guys are shipping some machines! That's good!
Yes our shipping team is working hard! :) All orders over $50 ship for free!
How to order sir from Philippines
Wow sounds load with lots of sparks- I’ve been playing with pulse mig at school and when u find the sweet spot it’s very quiet with little to no spatter or sparks
Sparks are because the gun is too close. Pulse needs to breathe. Kind hard to overcome muscle memory of keeping your MiG gun tight.
Now, all you need is several locking casters so you can maneuver the table. You can send me a Millermatic 255 for that information. lol.
Not quite what I was hoping for. Still doesn't answer my question if I should spend the extra money for pulse feature and a little extra thickness capability of something in the 200 amp range. We use a Multimatic 220 AC/DC at work that is a great welder that does a lot. I was entertaining the thought of purchasing my own dedicated mig and dedicated tig machine because I think I'd like some of the features on the Dynasty. Granted big price difference between buying 2 separate welders, vs. like our Multimatic 220, but a little more capability on both ends.
You shouldn't have fireworks, it's the wire!!! I just bought a Millermatic 255 to upgrade my Hobart Handler 210MVP. It short circuit MIGs great, and pulse MIG uphill was fine, but anything flat, horizontal, or downhill was a firework show like this video, with sparks, spatter, and porosity problems. Super disappointing. After much searching online forums, I came across somebody who had similar problems with the pulse function on the 255. After 7 months of back and forth with distributors and Miller, he threw a new spool of Lincoln L-56 .035 wire in the machine, and all problems disappeared. I tried the same thing, and it fixed all my problems as well! I had a roll of .035 Hobart wire on the machine that had been on the shelf for about 4 years, and it works perfect on short circuit MIG, but there must be very slight amounts of corrosion that mess with the pulse function.
Attn: Baker's Gas: this video was not a fair representation of the machine's capabilities, and is possibly leading many potential buyers away from the process. I believe it would be in your best interest to throw a new spool of Lincoln L-56 wire in the machine and create a follow-up video with the pulse MIG function properly documented.
Thank you!
Also I have found that the default Arc Length of 50 is great for horizontal and uphill, but I need to increase the arc length when traveling downhill or it short circuits and spatters. 75 works good for me.
I had an old linclon 200 mig. Was having all kinds of problems with how it welded. I installed new capacitors, liner,tips nothing improved it. Got a new roll of L56. That thing immediately started welding like a brand new machine. I recently bought a millermatic 255 and i have not used it to the point of being familure with it and how if welds. I didn't insist on a roll of L56 when i got it. But the first chance i have to get back to the welding supply im going to pick up a roll of L56. I bet it makes a world of difference in how the 255 welds. I think the new roll that i got when i bought the welder will become tie wire. I will not buy any other than the linclon L56 from now on for everyday welding. Supposedly the ASW number says it is supposed to be same even from different brands. Maybe so but it will be L56 for me from now on.
@@garytodd5605 Do you plan on using the pulse mig function much? When it's working good (L56), it is really nice because there is no spatter. Interesting humming sound too. Not sure why, but it brings every fly in the shop to come die on my hot workpiece. It can be pretty annoying when a fly falls into your molten weld pool...
I agree on the L56 wire. My machine loves that wire. I just got a miller gas mixer to mix my own gas I'm now pretty much only pules mig everything. Lol except for the first tac welds
Try letting the MiG gun breathe, pulse needs more distance between the MiG gun and weld pool. The video was suffering from that mistake. Hard to override muscle memory though lol.
I have been looking into a new welder and can't decide if the 255 is worth the extra money, the 235 is similar, Is the pulse mig worth the extra?
The millermatic is slightly cheaper than the multi-matic but it'll depend on what you want to do. Pulse helps with thinner metals and on some specific tasks, personally if i'm going to drop the coin i'd prefer the pulse. If you decide you don't like the pulse or don't need it afterwards, you can always shut it off.
On your vertical welds it looked like you were going vertical DOWN - did I mis-see that? I thought you had to go vertical UP. Related, did you weave the vertical welds? Asking because I'm practicing on my Millermatic 350P to do some vertical welding in pulse mode (0.035" wire; 90/10 gas). I've got good equipment, light in the skill department. And, there's not a lot of information on pulsed MIG on steel.
Regardless, please let me know if you were vertical welding up or down; and if you were weaving. Thanks!
pulse in all positions is easy, it's just like everything else... practice practice and more practice is all i can say mate. good luck
I'd like to see a video on that millermatic 255 with a push pull gun on aluminum with pulse .
Thanks for watching Troy! We actually made one a while ago when this machine first came out. Check it out and let us know what you think.
ruclips.net/video/8ZLcmA3EVX8/видео.html
Can you review the weld pro multiprocess 200 I’ve been checking it out and have not found any good videos about it
The only Multiprocess 200 we know is the Miller Multimatic 200 ;) If you are looking for a good multi process machine let us know and we can help find a good fit for you.
Thank you for the great video. Question about stick out with this machine and running pulse. How much stick out do you have when welding on pulse mode? I’ve read 3/4ths of an inch.
Cameron, you want to be 3/8" to 1/2" thanks for watching!
Baker's Gas thank you for tips! Bought my multi255 from y'all and love it!
Id say with your technique of head so close the fumes coming off you need to step up to and Adflo style helmet, where i work its adflo only policy so there's no opinion/preference dilution to safe practices. Maybe you need to watch your own material to see what i mean !
Do you have to run 90-10 Gas Only with Pulse mode?
Yes, 90/10 or 98/2 (Argon / Co2) ratios. You can do short circuit with 90/10 gas as well.
Can I use this MDX gun for aluminum with Pulse MIG or does it HAVE to be the alumapro gun?
To weld aluminum you have to have a spool gun or push pull gun.
The htp propulse 220 doesn't require a spool gun and it's cheaper
@@sbranham86 The propulse 220 can't do more than 200-210 amps (the multimatic can reach 320-350 amps but it's best duty cycle is around 250). The P.P. machines are nice but the equivalent to this is actually the 300 and the PP 300 costs 1500 more than the multimatic 255 does.
The Propulse machines have more presets for different mig/tig operations by far.
@@sbranham86 I had a HTP spool gun for aluminum I loved but parts were not available. Miller parts can be bought. I bought 2 255`s because of this. One for aluminum with the Alumapro gun and another 255 for strictly metal welding. All because they forced me to purchase a complete spool gun system because no parts could be supplied.
@8:54 is that my esab rogue ? shipping
Yes! haha thanks for the order!
Which mig gun are ya runnen?
It is the MDX-250 that comes with the 255!
bakersgas.com/products/millermdx-250miggun15ft-4-6m-030-035-1770037
bad rep for spatter...clean that steel!
He needs to use more CTWD and increase the arc length. I had the same problem when I first started using my Multimatic 255
@@louisperugini785 yep longer stick out, was way to close...sounded like short arc
Less spatter huh ???
Yes!
I have the Multimatic 255 and you will get less spatter when it is set up correctly and you run a longer stickout. I found that on thinner material (1/8th inch for example) I need more arc length than the autoset suggests. On 1/4 inch steel, the autoset settings work fine for me.
With the fumes going right in your face, shouldn't you be wearing a respirator mask?
We do have a fume extractor and LPR-100 we wear when welding for longer periods of time.
What's up with all the sparks? Pulsed Mig is an open arc transfer and there should be NO sparks, No crackle and No spatter. The Autoset parameters on the Millermatic 255 are complete garbage!! Turning the arc length to 70 still drives the wire into the puddle creating a mess. I have to use manual settings and go over 75 just to get an open arc!
I have found running a 91/5/4 really makes the pulse work really good and can keep a shorter arc length works on auto set as long as the ark length is around 55-69. With auto set off I have my machine set up using auto run in, 25-35 arc control depending on what type of weld you are doing and 49-69 arc length depending on what wire speed you are running, You can also run an .030 wire on manual mode. Just have to adjust the run in to 100, arc control to about 25-32 and arc length around 45-55. Really makes a clean true pulse weld.
your poor ups guy lol
Jimmy Needs a Cheater or Two. He got his head Barred in the Fumes. A Beard will only Filter so much…
:v
Pretty shitty to do a video highlighting a Miller machine and end the video with a screen full of ESABs being shipped out.
It was a real day in shipping. A bunch of ESAB machines must have arrived. We do ship mostly Miller ;)