How To Insulate Walls Without Sheathing
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- When remodeling an old home, you may find that the exterior framed walls lack a layer of sheathing, with the backside of the siding exposed or separated by a layer of tar paper. These types of wall conditions can be challenging to insulate correctly, as these wall assemblies tend to experience an enormous amount of moisture and air leakage. The lack of insulation and abundant heat flow dried these walls out, keeping them dry and durable. However, insulating these high risk wall assemblies without addressing bulk water infiltration and air leakage can lead to their rapid deterioration, as the walls stay wetter for longer, supporting mold growth and rot. In this video, we discuss a strategy that can be used to safely insulate old walls without sheathing. This clip is from Insulating Walls in Old Houses (For Architects + Contractors): • Insulating Walls in Ol...
A Guide To Moisture Management For Residential Remodels (eBook) : asiri-designs....
Read The Full Article On Insulating Old Wall Assemblies : asiri-designs....
150+ Free Building Science Articles : asiri-designs....
Request Building Science Consulting Services For Your Project : asiri-designs....
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Music from Pixabay
Space Chillout by penguinmusic: pixabay.com/mu...
*A Guide To Moisture Management For Residential Remodels eBook:* asiri-designs.com/shop/ols/products/moisture-management-for-residential-remodels
Good info. There's STILL so much confusion among builders, code enforcement, inspectors and owners about moisture.....when to stop it and where to stop it. Living in a high humid, high temp area we battle mold, mildew and internal RH issues constantly. It's tough to be a good AC contractor around here. Glad you're making good content.
100%. Hot humid climates also started to see even worse humidity issues right after energy codes got stricter. Better insulating values meant the AC was running less often, and the incidental dehumidification from the air conditioning was lost. It got worse with buildings that required a certain amount of air change. Now we need both ERVs and dehumidifiers - not only in those hot humid climates but in colder climates too. Crazy right? Thanks for watching!
Let me ask- without sheathing is there less structural stability?
I thought sheathing adds a lot of strength when added to the studs. Do the boards provide this strength?
Great question - It depends (as in the case of using shear walls or shear connectors to achieve lateral stability rather than the sheathing itself), but in *most* cases you're correct. Typically if the building is still standing 100 years later, presumably it has stood the test of time. In some severe cases, you will need to install a new layer of sheathing - but this will usually be determined by your structural engineer, and you'll probably start to see indicators of stress. The siding boards can provide a modicum of racking resistance, but more than likely they are going to be braced with some sort of cross bracing.
Thank for sharing. How do you deal with all the siding nails when installing a dimple membrane behing the siding?
So keep in mind, this wall condition is for assemblies that did not have sheathing - the siding was fastened directly to the studs in these older walls, so you wouldn't see nails behind the cladding. Let's say if you do happen to puncture the dimple mat with a nail, it's not a big deal because we've created that ventilated drainage gap. The gap will break capillary continuity and prevent water from being wicked inside.
1939 house in Kentucky, so a mixed climate zone. Every season can have any or all mixes of Chicago and Atlanta weather. I have stone exterior, and by stone, I mean 9" thick limestone block. As far as I can tell, it has sheathing (looks like 1x6 planks, not sheet obviously) and tar paper and platform framing (not balloon framed). No insulation at all. When I open a wall, so far, I have just been putting rockwool in and have not addressed the vapor control as I didn't want to prevent drying in either direction. But the sheer thickness of the exterior stone makes me think the chance of water getting all the way in there is low. Any thoughts on this assembly? The thermal mass of the stone is a really major issue.
You're thinking about the right things, you want always allow those stone walls to dry out to the interior if possible. Check out this article I posted on insulating mass masonry walls - the same principles will apply to stone: asiri-designs.com/resources-1/f/insulating-mass-masonry-walls
I’m buying a corrugate galvanized steel grain bin 24 ft diameter. What is the best insulation to use for the sides and the cone shaped roof structure ? What about insulating the concrete slab as this will be in a cold climate in the Catskills of NY ?
Hate to say it, but probably closed cell spray foam is your best option here other than "don't do it".
Ohne winddichte Ebene macht jegliche Isolierung egal wie dick keinen Sinn!!!.👍👍🇩🇪
Better to build a new house.
The money is made in mitigation system. simply put need to spend more time inventing a better insulation material.
We have plenty of insulation options at our disposal, we need people to understand the 2nd law of thermodynamics.