2021 Royal Enfield Classic 350 -My First Oil Change And That Secondary Sump Plug Oil Drop!
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- Опубликовано: 1 июн 2022
- did my first oil change on my 2021 Royal Enfield Classic 350 in the hot new colour Marsh Grey and thought i'd upload a clip on what appears to be a secondary oil drain plug in the sump area.
This bit of info may come in handy for those contemplating on doing their very own or first oil change on the new Enfield model. 
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THANK YOU Warro.
I cannot imagine HOW MANY people You have Helped over the years.
All we can say is THANK YOU.
VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.
THANK YOU.
thanks and appreciated!
Should definitely add a thanks button ✅ the $ he has saved people,deserves something back for sure
Another great maintenance tutorial. That was super clean in there 👌
yeah i must admit it is surprising how clean the new motors are in the enfields -i guess no longer the dark ages...lol
A big thank you for a very informative video, nice one Warro.
Just checked the front plug on mine just in case, all ok 👌
🏍🇬🇧
No problem 👍 mine was tight on the halcyon blue and not so on the green. different dealer purchases so hard to say -sloppiness from the factory or the other way....lol
The oil does look dark but I expect it'll be a lot cleaner on the second drop.
I remember when I did my first oil change on the bike, the oil looked fresh and I was pleased to see that there was no metal on the sump plug magnet.
I did exactly the same as you when running the bike in, lots of short local runs to heat cycle the engine.
Great video.
Take care mate.
yeah i dont mind doing the odd oil changes when they are new. thats the cheapest part of the ride experience or so i think...lol
G'day Warro, always interesting to watching even if l haven't got that model bike, that oil looked ready to replace with quite a lot of suspended crap in the oil, at 500 klms it would have been black, yes the oil and the filters are doing a good job, cheers mate, Neil 🤠.
always a cheap alternative doing an oil change yourself compared to a ealer so i think its well worth the trouble to do just for a bit of peace of mind.
best of all a quick run after that and 25 klm later no oil leaks...lol
so its saul goodman.....lol
Thanks Warro, yet another helpful video 🙂
Happy to help!
Surprised that the front plug managed to remain oil tight really. If it had started dripping you would have noticed it sooner.
Great idea with the milk bottles, I might nick that idea if I can find a product using similar bottles around here. It’s always difficult to put the right amount back in, you either overfill it or under fill it and spend a disproportionate amount of time trying to get the level of the new oil just right. Your solution should save a lot of time, so thanks for sharing 👍
Take care mate, very interesting as usual !
ER.
a while back i did try to undo the one on the blue with small ratchet but it was extremely tight. so i bought out the big one for this and really applied near no pressure.
both bikes from different dealers. either loose from factory and never checked on pre-delivery or forgot about while checking it.
all i can say is im pretty lucky. its only had 125 miles of very easy around town riding.
the blue has had several hundred miles of rough dirt roads and tracks-id say it may have shaken out if on that set of wheels
lucky for me i decided to take a look
Neat hack with the milk bottles. Will try that next change. My user manual says tilt the bike side to side to maximise drainage. That might get a bit more out of the front plug.
im not sure whats inside both side cases but i found when i did oil changes on the 500 it still had oil pooled in various nooks and crassies so to speak.
its pretty hard to get it all out but its worth a try so go for it!
Thanks for the information mate.
all good. happy to help out
My uncle taught me when ever you get a new bike to check every nut and bolt. Glad it didn’t fall out on you.
yeah i agree. could have been bad news for sure. all the best!
Great tips, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks, good info.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thanks 👍😊😊
Thanks for watching! always like playing with an oil clip...lol
Excellent tutorial , thanks Warro!
I wonder at the purpose of that second drain location...maybe to drain access from an overfill?
probably more to do with getting oil out from front of motor but may work better with side rather than centre stand. i was going to put it back and do it again but i have and oil/filter change dur on the halcyon blue so will try it there
@@ridewithwarro I wouldn't mind see that experiment on a video, see how she goes =)
Nice one, Warro! I did the same 200 km thing last month on my little Skygo Earl Classic 150 single, here in Philippines. Unfortunately, it doesn't have a magnetic drain plug and only has a tiny mesh filter... The oil was very dark, with microscopic particles in suspension. Asking in the many local bike shops for a magnetic plug produced only blank looks. I got one over the internet, but it looks to be the wrong size; I'll check that out at the 500 km oil-change. I think I might end up just having to change the oil twice as frequently as the handbook says, like we used to do on Japanese bikes, back in the 1960's !
ive been looking on ebay myself for one for this. like you the only issue is knowing the thread pitch and i think i can score it
I have a Classic 500 Tribute still running it in. I looked at the oil you were using but couldnt figure out why you stick to the 'gas' one when there is dedicated MC ones. The MC are made for wet clutches with all the right protective additives like Ester (from semi syn). I read up Penrite on both oils. Im using Penrite MC-4ST 10w-50w semi synth. Am in Melb. Oh I have same oil pan in black but wish I can find them in yellow as yours, any idea who may have in yellow?
ref to oil -all i can say it was recommended to me back in 012 for the zinc content by a royal enfield motorcycle mechanic. after that i used it in 15 x C5's 2x 350's a himalayan and 2 interceptorsor plus these 2 new 350 -all bike were brand new and never had an issue.
but i would say this. be very careful how you run in the 500 and do oil changes at 200/500/1000 and 3000 as they are very dirty motors. justcheck my history on these and you'll find out
these new 350 are super clean by comparison.
give it plenty of heat cycles and stay away from sports exhausts unless running a fueler.
if not you may get what i did-2 new bikes with burnt out valves and one i had to totally pull down with 700 klm on it.back in my files too
think i got that at supercheap the container
@@brettwicks2615 good call there
Hi mate, what are your thoughts on that sump nut, it seemed to serve a purpose on my bullet 500 but these don’t plus the bullet was a magnetic sump nut, is it worth even removing do you reckon when you change the oil
yeah its pretty easy to get at being at near front of the motor so go ahead and do it
Great video mate. Just had my dealer service my bike at 500km, they put an oil grade in I'm not happy with, I want to dump it and put my preferred oil in. It's only done 100km on the new filter, is it OK to leave the oil filter and just dump oil and replace with my preferred oil? Or do I need to replace filter as well? Cheers
i'd just dump it and just change the oil. then again theres no guarantee that you got the new filter even with a dealer service. filter supplies were a bit hard to get earlier-not sure now!
so if you have a spare handy -put it in, if not do an oil drop at 2000
hey warro , can i know how much quantity of engine oil did you use in your re reborn classic 350 . kindly provide me details in liter.
just like in my clip i always drop the oil and mark the container and put the same back in. run the bike on the centre stand for two minutes and check the sight glass.
add oil till it gets close to the top marker on sight glass - do not overfill
Hi Warro just done 1,000 miles on my Classic 350 -- my speedo needle started to stick in different positions . I stopped and it was reading 50 and went up to 90 when I started moving again. It then started reading different numbers. I got home and turned the ignition on and off a few times and the needle gradually went back to 0. I left the bike for a while and then took it out again and the speedo was ok. have you come across this problem , The fuel gauge window mists up a little and so does the speedo dial , does this happen on your bikes. I heard someone say they had a misting up problem on their Interceptor Cheers
I've had the same issue with the speedo like yourself. It seems to be behaving for now
i had issues with the speedo right from the second run and did that correction bit. in fact i think i was the one who told others about it a few months back.
i had to do it quite a few times and i found it usually messed up after a longer start stop start ride.
in the end it did correct itself or has so far has.
meanwhile if it persists tell the dealer and they will issue a replacement speedo
mine is on back order!
no issues with speedo etc fogging and in my locality its experiencing zero plus heavy frost days.
either way what your experiencing is just a very minor issue and nothing compared to other past enfields.
the speed correction is a nuisance thats for sure but give that dealer a call and request replacement unit and its heavily documented now
@@ridewithwarro THANKYOU
@@paulharvey5053 Cheers
G'day Warro,
With all the bikes you've had over the years, what would your top 3 rides be, whether bike or scooter?
best scooter i think xmax300 and in bikes my likes were these 350 enfields/cb500x/650 interceptor/klx150 kawasaki
Hi Warro I spoke to the Dealer about the Speedo problem and he said that some bikes have done the same --he has put in a claim which was accepted so a new part is on its way
all good there. so you could say a happy ending
Gonna go look at the Enfields on tuesday. Am tempted by the scram for the extra bhp but I have no probs sticking to country roads n 60 mph + o _ so Classic 350 still my no.1 choice.
P.s For 14 bhp my 125 (Zontes G1 125) is def running better at 1000 miles and first service Although its a good bit lighter than the classic. (160kg or so vs 190 kg).
i think once you ride or look over the classic-there is no other choice!
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hhhmm, reckon I'll be going over the new bike checking that everything is tight when it eventually turns up.
good idea. when i checked later the front sump plug was extremely tight on the halcyon blue but not so on this one.
Hello, I recently ordered a Yamaha Nmax, do you have any modification suggestions for me?
id go for a roller kit to improve pickup and that should be good to get you going a bit quicker for not much money involved
@@ridewithwarro Like what?Be a novice in this respect, have specific tool introduction?Or links to related products?
@@sgao9749 best advice i can give would be start looking at nmax youtube clips on improving performance using smaller rollers.
i had xmax 300 but same thing bigger motor.
plus you can improve performance using smaller rollers for not much money
@@ridewithwarro The roller ball that drives the bearing?
@@sgao9749 ruclips.net/video/Xg4g6MUhwvw/видео.html
Hi warro hope you are ok ,just not like you to off air for so long
thanks-alll good here. pretty bad winter and roads lately covered with odd patches of black ice. just waiting for a break in the weather and should be ready to roll
all the best!
I understand y India like this bike its our oldest bike but i real don't understand other country 🤔
i think it's really the old school style look but also the added attraction of fuel injection and safety side with the abs.