Good, honest video Greg, thank you! There is a revised PTFE clip that only allows for 20 degrees of turn now and also your control box should have the stabilizing clips reinstalled if you get a chance. Rock on! 🤘🐙
Great review, a lot of content to digest. Definitely gives me some food for thought. It is a lot of money for such a small build volume. Maybe a side by side comparison to the Prusa for overall prints for your next video 😉
This was so helpful. My two Lulzbot minis are fading fast and I'm debating between the 747 and MK3s. It seems like Lulzbot was looking at Prusa as it designed this printer so I think there will be a lot of interest in the comparison. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
I have a TAZ6 and quite like it. Would like to ask you... do you think the build quality of the Prusa mk3s is better as a result of their printers+end-to-end software approach? I look around trying to find the nswer to this and never get a clear answer. I will keep my TAZ6 just coz it's so rock-solid. But might buy a Prusa if the quality of print is really that much better. What do you think?
You can definitely get as good or better prints as the Prusa Mk3 easily with the Lulzbot Sidekick (and the Taz 6). There have been a improvements to the 3d printed parts since it originally came out to address some of the early issues. The firmware for the Sidekick is also a fork of the latest Marlin firmware, which in my opinion is a benefit of going Prusa since it currently lags behind in many features. The Sidekick is much more sturdy than the Prusa Mk3 or Prusa mini by design. The biggest benefit Prusa has over the Sidekick is that it's been around for a long time, and thus is proven to be very good, and there is a much larger support group. Since you are already in the Luzlbot ecosystem you should definitely consider the Sidekick. It's a great machine and just getting better and better.
Not even close to prusa killer.. And you are looking at $1365 to compare to anything. ($125 for a $15 lcd, $195 for hotend, extra for flex plate and filament sensor etc...) On top of that, it does not use linear rails or at least smooth rods and bearings... Plus, frame extrusions are angled 45 degrees, so mounting things is a lot harder..
@@labworks8201 Yeah, all valid concerns. The price is the biggest one! The machine kinematics are actually pretty decent despite some of the surprising choices (v wheels, rotated extrusions, etc.)
@@RockwellAIM65 I think Prusa Slicer is definitely better than Cura Lulzbot Edition in terms of overall features. However, you can also use Prusa Slicer on the Sidekick and also even update the firmware with it. So I don't really think the slicer is all that important for consideration. I would like to see Cura Luzlbot Edition to be more current, similar to mainstream Cura.
I like the 289 printer over my Mini 2. The bed leveling is always spot on for the 289 in comparison to my Mini 2. I'm not liking the position for the print head up top when changing filament. That is difficult for an adult set of fingers and hands to maneuver. Power off scenario is a complete failure in my tests. The hot print head drops nearly a centimeter into the part, ruining it. Then on power on, the print head now does not readjust for the lost z height and it rams back into the part. In a scenario where power failure happens early in your build, the hot end can end up dropping into the glass. On power up and if you tell it to restart, the head moves toward the x/y 0,0 position and can hit the 0,0 bed pad. Overall the power loss feature is a failure in my testing. Greg, your bowden supply tube should go up over the top of the machine and down into the print head. Your video you show it going off the side and around the back. You stated a need to zip tie it, but you have it routed wrong.
Some great feedback! I have not tested the power off feature but I am sure mine would do the same thing you stated. I noticed the head drops when power is off or removed from steppers. That definitely is an issue on these machines- not sure if Lulz are working on that yet. My Bowden tube is too short to go over the machine top, but there is a new part they have now that fixed the angle so it can’t get caught on the gantry. I should be able to use that and ditch my zip tile but for now it is working. They have sent me a few new parts that have made this machine even better and fixed some issues. I will have another video coming soon on that. Thanks for chiming in and glad yours is better than the mini 2.
@@GregsMakerCorner now that I got your attention I have a few questions about NinjaFlex if you use that? Great success using NinjaFlex 2.85 mm on the Mini 2 and the new 289 with the 2.85mm SE print head. I am struggling with NinjaFlex 85A 1.75mm on my Prusa Mk3s+. However I've gotten successful prints using Overture TPU 95A on the Prusa. My question to you: Have you used your Lulzbot 289 with 1.75mm to print any NinjaFlex 85A?
@@MrBteacher Hey Brian- so far I have only tried Sainsmart TPU, which I believe is a lot more like 95A. I have run super soft NinjaFlex 85A on a bondtech extruder before with a 1.75mm hot end, and also on a Hemera with success. In both cases I had to drop the speed down quite a bit- around 12 mm/sec (for the Bondtech) and no more than 20 mm/sec for retraction speed. If you are having trouble try dropping speed down even more. I have run ninjaflex up to 40 mm/sec on the Hemera but it doesn't look good printing much faster than that since it needs good cooling.
Awesome review hope to see more reviews in the future
Great Video! thank you for reviewing this printer.
Good, honest video Greg, thank you!
There is a revised PTFE clip that only allows for 20 degrees of turn now and also your control box should have the stabilizing clips reinstalled if you get a chance. Rock on! 🤘🐙
Awesome, thanks for the info!!
Great review, a lot of content to digest. Definitely gives me some food for thought. It is a lot of money for such a small build volume. Maybe a side by side comparison to the Prusa for overall prints for your next video 😉
This was so helpful. My two Lulzbot minis are fading fast and I'm debating between the 747 and MK3s. It seems like Lulzbot was looking at Prusa as it designed this printer so I think there will be a lot of interest in the comparison. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
this is no way even comes close to competing with the prusa.
I actually like the 8 bit boards.
I have a TAZ6 and quite like it. Would like to ask you... do you think the build quality of the Prusa mk3s is better as a result of their printers+end-to-end software approach? I look around trying to find the nswer to this and never get a clear answer. I will keep my TAZ6 just coz it's so rock-solid. But might buy a Prusa if the quality of print is really that much better. What do you think?
You can definitely get as good or better prints as the Prusa Mk3 easily with the Lulzbot Sidekick (and the Taz 6). There have been a improvements to the 3d printed parts since it originally came out to address some of the early issues. The firmware for the Sidekick is also a fork of the latest Marlin firmware, which in my opinion is a benefit of going Prusa since it currently lags behind in many features. The Sidekick is much more sturdy than the Prusa Mk3 or Prusa mini by design. The biggest benefit Prusa has over the Sidekick is that it's been around for a long time, and thus is proven to be very good, and there is a much larger support group. Since you are already in the Luzlbot ecosystem you should definitely consider the Sidekick. It's a great machine and just getting better and better.
Nice job Greg! I do think the 747 at $1100 assembled will be a Prusa killer. I would pay $100 more for a better built machine in the USA.
Thanks!! Yeah I think you're right, price needs to come down a bit. Hopefully that will happen! It's good to have US competition in this space.
Not even close to prusa killer..
And you are looking at $1365 to compare to anything.
($125 for a $15 lcd, $195 for hotend, extra for flex plate and filament sensor etc...)
On top of that, it does not use linear rails or at least smooth rods and bearings...
Plus, frame extrusions are angled 45 degrees, so mounting things is a lot harder..
@@labworks8201 Yeah, all valid concerns. The price is the biggest one! The machine kinematics are actually pretty decent despite some of the surprising choices (v wheels, rotated extrusions, etc.)
That's a pretty fair comment. Am wondering how the Prusa end-to-end software control design does in comparison to the Cura-based Lulzbot.
@@RockwellAIM65 I think Prusa Slicer is definitely better than Cura Lulzbot Edition in terms of overall features. However, you can also use Prusa Slicer on the Sidekick and also even update the firmware with it. So I don't really think the slicer is all that important for consideration. I would like to see Cura Luzlbot Edition to be more current, similar to mainstream Cura.
Prusa ships with a delta power supply now
I like the 289 printer over my Mini 2. The bed leveling is always spot on for the 289 in comparison to my Mini 2. I'm not liking the position for the print head up top when changing filament. That is difficult for an adult set of fingers and hands to maneuver.
Power off scenario is a complete failure in my tests. The hot print head drops nearly a centimeter into the part, ruining it. Then on power on, the print head now does not readjust for the lost z height and it rams back into the part. In a scenario where power failure happens early in your build, the hot end can end up dropping into the glass. On power up and if you tell it to restart, the head moves toward the x/y 0,0 position and can hit the 0,0 bed pad. Overall the power loss feature is a failure in my testing.
Greg, your bowden supply tube should go up over the top of the machine and down into the print head. Your video you show it going off the side and around the back. You stated a need to zip tie it, but you have it routed wrong.
Some great feedback! I have not tested the power off feature but I am sure mine would do the same thing you stated. I noticed the head drops when power is off or removed from steppers. That definitely is an issue on these machines- not sure if Lulz are working on that yet. My Bowden tube is too short to go over the machine top, but there is a new part they have now that fixed the angle so it can’t get caught on the gantry. I should be able to use that and ditch my zip tile but for now it is working. They have sent me a few new parts that have made this machine even better and fixed some issues. I will have another video coming soon on that. Thanks for chiming in and glad yours is better than the mini 2.
@@GregsMakerCorner now that I got your attention I have a few questions about NinjaFlex if you use that? Great success using NinjaFlex 2.85 mm on the Mini 2 and the new 289 with the 2.85mm SE print head. I am struggling with NinjaFlex 85A 1.75mm on my Prusa Mk3s+. However I've gotten successful prints using Overture TPU 95A on the Prusa. My question to you: Have you used your Lulzbot 289 with 1.75mm to print any NinjaFlex 85A?
@@MrBteacher Hey Brian- so far I have only tried Sainsmart TPU, which I believe is a lot more like 95A. I have run super soft NinjaFlex 85A on a bondtech extruder before with a 1.75mm hot end, and also on a Hemera with success. In both cases I had to drop the speed down quite a bit- around 12 mm/sec (for the Bondtech) and no more than 20 mm/sec for retraction speed. If you are having trouble try dropping speed down even more. I have run ninjaflex up to 40 mm/sec on the Hemera but it doesn't look good printing much faster than that since it needs good cooling.