Many thanks, Dave! I have my grandfather's and he took meticulous care of his vintage equipment... but there was no manual! This was a huge help. There's still a roll of film in it from when he was with us, so I want to learn to use the camera and finish the roll to see what memories are on there. Very helpful!
Hi Gary. Thanks so much! What a great connection to have with your grandfather. That's awesome! If you need any additional information, or if you have any questions as you get into it, let me know. Happy to help out. Great that you are picking up his Realist and getting it back in use. I'm sure you will enjoy the experience, as I'm sure he did! Love to hear how you make out with it! Dave
That's awesome! As you have seen, stereo slides are amazing images! I think you will really enjoy creating your own. If you have any questions about the process as you get into it, let me know. I'll be happy to help. Thanks for watching! Dave
Awesome video, I was the gent that met you yesterday down at the World Trade Center, thank you for an amazing video. It was great meeting you and thank you for the explanation.
It was great meeting you as well and hearing about your photography interests. Beautiful day to see the sites, talk photography, and do some 3D shooting! Glad you enjoyed learning about the Stereo Realist. Thanks so much for checking out the video! Keep on shooting!
Hey, thanks so much for checking out the video! I'm glad you found it helpful. I'm actually in the process of putting together a video on how to mount stereo slides, so stay tuned! If you have any further questions about anything, feel free to send them along. Happy to try to answer them. Shooting with a Stereo Realist really is a lot of fun! Thanks again! Dave
That's awesome! I think you will really enjoy creating 3D images! If you have any questions once you jump into shooting with your Stereo Realist, let me know. Happy to help out. Thanks for watching! Dave
@davepichette825 I am pretty stoked, these images are like nothing I have experienced. I got 35mm film for it not realizing what I had. I am in the process of ordering slide film for it now. What would be the best film to use?
@@mjc-thatsme5669 Hi MJC. I would recommend using Kodak Ektachrome 100. Excellent film with great color reproduction. That is my film choice and I love the results I get with it! You can order it from B&H Photo. They ship really fast and have great customer service, if you ever need it. I think you will really enjoy it! Dave
I've just get a Stereo Realist, and was afraid to struggle with the use of it... So thanks for all those clear informations ! All the best, Théo from (Alsace) France
Hi Theo, Have fun using your Stereo Realist! I know you will enjoy it. If you have any further questions as you get started, let me know. I will be happy to help out. Best of Luck! Dave
Hello Dave, I saw that the case of my Stereo Realist did not include seal foams. Is this the case on all models or has it deteriorated over time? Have you ever noticed light leaks? Thank you for your answers ! All the best, Théo
@@cetera7545 Hey Theo. These cameras never had seal foam between the camera back and the main camera body like more modern 35mm cameras do, so its not the case that yours is deteriorated. The design instead incorporated light baffles built into the metal frame of the camera body that are meant to keep the camera light tight. That being said however, some of these cameras may have light leaks around the camera back due to the locking lever not pulling the back in as tight as it might have when the camera was new. The most common place to get a light leak, if that occurs, is on the end of the camera where the locking lever is, where the back seats against the camera. This is because there was only one light baffle edge in that spot, where around the rest of the body there is more light baffling built into the frame. Have you shot a role and discovered a light leak? Thanks! Dave
If you want you can contact me by email at davepichette825@gmail.com if you want to send photos of your camera to indicate where you think there may be a problem, or just to go over things in more detail. This way I can email you back photos that might help answer questions also. Thanks! Dave
Here's a little trivia for movie and spy novel fans. The stereo realist camera and slide viewer were prominently featured in the movie "Them". There are several scenes where the actors are shown using them. It was also featured in the novel by Helen MacInnes "The Venetian Affair". The heroine goes into a camera store and asks for film for her Stereo Realist.
great information gonna have my first go next week with my recently purchased stereo realist. I'm curious if you have attempted flash photography with this camera,I would like to attempt this with vintage flash equipment. any hints or advice???
That's awesome! I'm sure you will have fun with it! Yes, I have used flash with Stereo Realists and have gotten great results. I have vintage Realist flashes and bulbs, but I haven't tried them yet, as its just a little easier with the modern flashes. I have been meaning to try the vintage gear though. I have been using modern flashes, specifically Vivitar 283 flashes. These are great older work horse flashes, they are pretty powerful, generally pretty cheap, and work really well with the Stereo Realist. You can use any shutter speed, which is nice, as the Stereo Realist doesn't have a specific flash sync speed, like many other 35 mm cameras have. Whatever flash you use, modern or vintage, just make sure you set your focus range on the camera to match the flash coverage range, as close as possible. It doesn't have to exactly match, but you want it to be close. Less critical if you are just using the flash for fill outdoors during the day. Let me know if you have any other questions. Have fun and thanks for checking out the video! Dave
As you wind the film after an exposure, it seems to click and stop pretty quickly. It doesn't seem like the film moves both exposed frames onto the takeup reel. Does the camera click and stop winding with the left-side exposed frame halted between the two lenses? In between exposures do you depress the unlock button and advance the knob only one time? When you get developed film back are the image pairs beside each other, or do they get broken up by the preceding and following image pairs?
Good question! No, both exposed frames are not rolled up onto the take up spool each time you advance the film. Your second point is correct. You will get exposed frames stopped in the middle of the two lenses as you advance the film. Yes, you only depress the film advance, or unlock, button and advance the knob once to get to the next exposure. When you get your film developed, all of the film will have exposed frames side by side, except for the first frame which will have an unexposed space between the exposed frames. The pair of images for a given photo will not be side by side on the film though. They will be separated by frames from other photos. So as an example, exposed frames 3 & 6 will be one image pair, frames 4 & 7 will be the next, and so on. Pretty ingenius idea by the cameras designer, Seton Rochwite, to minimize any wasted space on the film! Thanks for watching and have fun shooting with your Realist!
Hi Christian, I was actually planning to do a video on slide mounting in the near future. I'm finishing another project and then plan to get more focused on getting that video done. Stay tuned and Thanks for watching!! Dave
It is not unusual to get slight overlapping of frames with some Realist cameras, but only if it is slight. If it is significant, meaning you are getting a good chunk of image overlap so that when you go to cut the film into individual images you are getting more than just a fine line of extra image on the edge, then there may be a problem with the film transport that needs to be corrected. If it is only slight, then the overlap will be covered by the slide mount and you won't see it. Let me know if this sounds like what you are seeing. Hopefully this is helpful! Thanks again! Dave
It only did that the first roll. Guess I did something wrong. Second roll I took care and stopped right after the click, and hold the knob the whole time, from while releasing the lock and during the whole rotating action until next click, never releasing the knob, as I noticed that tension from the film pulled the film back a little after each time I turned the knob, and probably the culprit for that issue. I can live with that and just be careful while advancing the film. I also was having a heavy vignetting. Noticed that the shutter wasn't opening probably, one little screw from the shutter drive rod moving arm was about to break and the rod was loose. I have somehow fixed for now but am installi g a new screw in a fresh tapped hole. Vignetting is minimal now, but am not sure if its still the shutter not opening completely. I have heard that the f3.5 version of the camera is prone to this vignetting problem on the smallest apertures. Do you know if all of them have that on the corners? Is a huge drawback for me as I usually go for smaller apertures. I have a working Sputnik is a great camera but with 6 images per roll I don't use it a lot.
Sounds like you have a handle on the frame overlap issue which is good. Could have also been caused by holding down the film advance release button too long as you are winding to advance the film. Release the button as soon as the advance knob starts to turn. The f3.5 versions do vignette at the smallest aperture. I have f3.5 and f2.8 Realists. I don't typically see a vignetting issue shooting at f16 on my 3.5, but do at f22 . No vignetting with the f2.8 version even at f22, but I generally don't close all the way down to f22 very often. I've gotten great results from both the f3.5 and f2.8 versions! @@LambeLab
I found a Stereo Realist camera amongst my father's things after he died last year - I'd never heard of such a thing before. There were many slide images and two viewers. They all had belonged to his father, my grandfather, who died when I was 11 and I never really knew him. Through his photos, I am getting a sense of who he was. The quality of the images in stereo give a depth of meaning to the images I was not prepared for. Anyway, very dumb question, but is it true that you never look through a viewfinder when you take a picture with this camera?
Hi J. Actually you do look through a viewfinder when using this camera. The small round window to the left on the lower back of the camera is what you look through to compose and frame your shot. You have to have the lens cover flipped up, or open, in order to see anything. I think that's awesome that you discovered this camera and that you now have this connection to your grandfather. Stereo images are unique and amazing, and give a much more realistic reproduction of the scene being photographed. I'm so glad you have those images and a viewer to enjoy seeing them! I'm happy to help answer any other questions you have regarding your Stereo Realist camera, using it, helping correct any potential problems, or just about stereo photography in general. Thanks again for watching! Dave
If you use a light meter it is best to measure the direct light falling on the camera and not reflected light reading. Direct light reading best for slide film.
I understand using a camera to meter for the realist , I understand setting the shutterspeed and aperature but you didnt mention setting the ISO speed on the digital camera before obtaining what to set on the realist
I actually do say to set the ISO on the digital camera to ISO 100 twice in the video, since I'm using ISO 100 speed film in my Stereo Realist. First when I show how to use the Sunny 16 Rule, after explaining it, with my digital camera. I mention it again later in the video when I'm out in the field going through the process of how to shoot with the Stereo Realist, first part when I talk about metering the scene to get the correct exposure settings. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! Dave
Yes, you could certainly do that! I thought it might be tricky though to try to explain that, as some of the combinations wouldn't quite work. You would need to make a 3 to 3.5 stop aperture adjustment(smaller aperture) for each shutter speed shown, and for some of the slower shutter speeds shown on the table, you would run out of stops before you got to the correct stop adjustment. But you are absolutely correct! I may work that into a future video, but for the purpose of this video I just wanted to make people aware not to use those combos. Do you have a Realist? If so, I hope you are having fun shooting with it!! Thanks for the comment! Dave
@@davepichette825 I just got a realist yesterday and it’s my first camera ever. I wanted to take more stereos and using my phone has been tricky so I thought a realist might help cause taking the separate 2 photos is hard sometimes. I did happen to find a chart for the 100 speed film that should definitely help. I could send it to you if you’d like. All I need now is to figure out the distance and I should be good. I was told the camera should work but the lenses just need to be cleaned
@@LongAwayMay Thats great! Wow, your first camera, and its a Realist!? Sweet! In terms of the distance, the most effective way to start with the distance, or focus, is to set the focus point at 10 feet and the aperture at 16. With that, anything in your view frame that is 5 feet away from you out to infinity will be in focus. From there its just a matter of setting the shutter speed for the lighting conditions. On a sunny day, 1/100th of a second would work, as described in the video. On an overcast day you would have to use a slower shutter speed, 1/50th or 1/25th of a second. As a new camera user, make sure you clean the lenses with lens tissue and lens cleaner if possible. Paper towels or something similar can scratch the lenses, as that paper is more abrasive. Does the camera otherwise seem to be in decent condition? If you need any info about your Realist, cameras, or photography in general, I would be happy to help out! If its easier to work through regular email, in case photos of the camera to be attached you can email me directly at davepichette825@gmail.com. If your camera is working correctly, then I think you will be impressed with the quality of the images you can make with a Realist! A good test to see if the shutter speeds sound accurate is to set the shutter speed to one second and fire it. If the timing seems close to a second then you should be looking good. if it sounds more like a few seconds, then the shutter will need to be cleaned. Let me know how you make out. Thanks!!
You can take 3D photos with a digital camera, but they won't come close to the realism of viewing a stereo slide in a stereo viewer. The hard part is mounting the slides so that the stereo 'window' is in the best position. The image should be just behind the window unless there is a part of the image that pokes through the window without being at the edge. A poorly mounted slide is no good. The next hardest part is exposure. There is very little latitude with slide film so your exposure should be perfect. In order to achieve that, I always bracket my exposures (3 pictures, one stop under and one stop over in addition to the one given by your light meter). Use hyperfocal scale to get the maximum depth of focus. Avoid throwing the background out of focus the way you normally would with 'flat' photography. When you view a slide that has a great deal of depth of field, your eyes with only focus on one area at a time. I have the 2.8 version of this camera, but I rarely use this aperture.
Hey Joe. Great comments! I agree that digital stereo doesn’t compare to viewing a stereo slide in a stereo viewer. There are certain qualities stereo slides have that I don’t feel can be duplicated with digital. I also like using max depth in stereo slides. Much more realistic when viewing the image. I tend not to bracket though due to the cost of film and because I try to preview the exposure with my digital camera so I’m usually on target with exposure. Though I also never use the larger apertures, the 2.8 version is advantageous because you don’t get vignetting at the smallest apertures which you can get with the 3.5 version. I do still use my 3.5 also though as it was my first Realist and It produces sharp images. Thanks so much for the comments and for checking out the video. Stereo Realists are awesome!! Dave
@@davepichette825 I also use a Revere and a Kodak Stereo Camera. I find the Kodak loads and rewinds faster, and comparing it with a 3.5 Realist, it's just as sharp and doesn't vignette. For intentional double exposures where I appear twice in the same frame, I use the Revere, because it's easier to block off half the lens with electrical tape as I expose each side. Of course you can't use the double exposure feature on the Kodak because the tripod mount is in the way. The Realist is the easiest to service and take apart. I once dropped a 2.8 Realist in my lake and had to go diving for it. I took it apart to dry it out. The film was ruined, but after the camera dried, I reassembled it and it was good as new. The Kodak is very bad in this respect. If you're not careful, the lenses will not focus in tandem when you reassemble the camera. If you buy a Kodak, try it out ASAP. If the lenses don't focus in tandem, send it back for a refund. I use RBT reusable plastic mounts because I love how you can raise and lower each frame with respect to the other frame.
Interesting info on the other stereo cameras. I am a collector and user of Realists, and love their durability and the fact that you can repair them. Realists are solid, well built, and have quality lenses. I also use the RBT mounts. They are adjustable, easy to use, and durable. Great story about your 2.8 in the lake. Amazing. Would love to hear more about your stereo shooting experiences. Always great to make new stereo contact! My email is on my channel if communicating by email is easier. Thanks again! Dave
![How Does Film ACTUALLY Work? (It's MAGIC) [Photos and Development] - Smarter Every Day 258](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TCxoZlFqzwA/mqdefault.jpg)
Many thanks, Dave! I have my grandfather's and he took meticulous care of his vintage equipment... but there was no manual! This was a huge help. There's still a roll of film in it from when he was with us, so I want to learn to use the camera and finish the roll to see what memories are on there. Very helpful!
Hi Gary. Thanks so much! What a great connection to have with your grandfather. That's awesome! If you need any additional information, or if you have any questions as you get into it, let me know. Happy to help out. Great that you are picking up his Realist and getting it back in use. I'm sure you will enjoy the experience, as I'm sure he did! Love to hear how you make out with it! Dave
Thank you so much Dave! We’ve had the viewer for a while and just marveled at the 50s photos that came with it, looking at learning to make our own.
That's awesome! As you have seen, stereo slides are amazing images! I think you will really enjoy creating your own. If you have any questions about the process as you get into it, let me know. I'll be happy to help. Thanks for watching! Dave
Awesome video, I was the gent that met you yesterday down at the World Trade Center, thank you for an amazing video. It was great meeting you and thank you for the explanation.
It was great meeting you as well and hearing about your photography interests. Beautiful day to see the sites, talk photography, and do some 3D shooting! Glad you enjoyed learning about the Stereo Realist. Thanks so much for checking out the video! Keep on shooting!
Amazing video man!! It was super useful. Would be awesome to see a video on how you Mount your slides for the slide viewer
Hey, thanks so much for checking out the video! I'm glad you found it helpful. I'm actually in the process of putting together a video on how to mount stereo slides, so stay tuned! If you have any further questions about anything, feel free to send them along. Happy to try to answer them. Shooting with a Stereo Realist really is a lot of fun! Thanks again!
Dave
Great video, super helpful! Thanks for putting this together -- I'm going to try shooting slide film on my Realist today.
That's awesome! Have fun shooting with your Realist! Thanks so much for checking out the video! Dave
I just inherited one of these with a viewer and slides, I am truly amazed! Getting ready to get some slide film and start using it.
That's awesome! I think you will really enjoy creating 3D images! If you have any questions once you jump into shooting with your Stereo Realist, let me know. Happy to help out. Thanks for watching! Dave
@davepichette825 I am pretty stoked, these images are like nothing I have experienced. I got 35mm film for it not realizing what I had. I am in the process of ordering slide film for it now. What would be the best film to use?
@@mjc-thatsme5669 Hi MJC. I would recommend using Kodak Ektachrome 100. Excellent film with great color reproduction. That is my film choice and I love the results I get with it! You can order it from B&H Photo. They ship really fast and have great customer service, if you ever need it. I think you will really enjoy it! Dave
Thanks!
I've just get a Stereo Realist, and was afraid to struggle with the use of it...
So thanks for all those clear informations !
All the best,
Théo from (Alsace) France
Hi Theo, Have fun using your Stereo Realist! I know you will enjoy it. If you have any further questions as you get started, let me know. I will be happy to help out. Best of Luck! Dave
@@davepichette825 Thank you so much, ok I will let you know then !
Hello Dave, I saw that the case of my Stereo Realist did not include seal foams.
Is this the case on all models or has it deteriorated over time?
Have you ever noticed light leaks?
Thank you for your answers !
All the best,
Théo
@@cetera7545
Hey Theo. These cameras never had seal foam between the camera back and the main camera body like more modern 35mm cameras do, so its not the case that yours is deteriorated. The design instead incorporated light baffles built into the metal frame of the camera body that are meant to keep the camera light tight. That being said however, some of these cameras may have light leaks around the camera back due to the locking lever not pulling the back in as tight as it might have when the camera was new. The most common place to get a light leak, if that occurs, is on the end of the camera where the locking lever is, where the back seats against the camera. This is because there was only one light baffle edge in that spot, where around the rest of the body there is more light baffling built into the frame. Have you shot a role and discovered a light leak? Thanks! Dave
If you want you can contact me by email at davepichette825@gmail.com if you want to send photos of your camera to indicate where you think there may be a problem, or just to go over things in more detail. This way I can email you back photos that might help answer questions also. Thanks! Dave
Another great tutorial thanks Dave. Mel
Hi Dr. Wilner. Thanks again! Keep in touch and let me know how you are making out getting back into stereo it! Dave
This is super helpful. Thank you for this.
Thanks for watching! Enjoy shooting with the Stereo Realist!
Here's a little trivia for movie and spy novel fans. The stereo realist camera and slide viewer were prominently featured in the movie "Them". There are several scenes where the actors are shown using them. It was also featured in the novel by Helen MacInnes "The Venetian Affair". The heroine goes into a camera store and asks for film for her Stereo Realist.
Great trivia info. Thanks! I wasn't aware of that movie so I will have to check that out.
Really helpful Dave - thanks very much :-)
Or use print film, along with a mirrored stereoscope. That's what I do with the resulting 4 x 6 prints. Works like a charm.
great information gonna have my first go next week with my recently purchased stereo realist. I'm curious if you have attempted flash photography with this camera,I would like to attempt this with vintage flash equipment. any hints or advice???
That's awesome! I'm sure you will have fun with it! Yes, I have used flash with Stereo Realists and have gotten great results. I have vintage Realist flashes and bulbs, but I haven't tried them yet, as its just a little easier with the modern flashes. I have been meaning to try the vintage gear though. I have been using modern flashes, specifically Vivitar 283 flashes. These are great older work horse flashes, they are pretty powerful, generally pretty cheap, and work really well with the Stereo Realist. You can use any shutter speed, which is nice, as the Stereo Realist doesn't have a specific flash sync speed, like many other 35 mm cameras have. Whatever flash you use, modern or vintage, just make sure you set your focus range on the camera to match the flash coverage range, as close as possible. It doesn't have to exactly match, but you want it to be close. Less critical if you are just using the flash for fill outdoors during the day. Let me know if you have any other questions. Have fun and thanks for checking out the video! Dave
As you wind the film after an exposure, it seems to click and stop pretty quickly. It doesn't seem like the film moves both exposed frames onto the takeup reel. Does the camera click and stop winding with the left-side exposed frame halted between the two lenses? In between exposures do you depress the unlock button and advance the knob only one time? When you get developed film back are the image pairs beside each other, or do they get broken up by the preceding and following image pairs?
Good question! No, both exposed frames are not rolled up onto the take up spool each time you advance the film. Your second point is correct. You will get exposed frames stopped in the middle of the two lenses as you advance the film. Yes, you only depress the film advance, or unlock, button and advance the knob once to get to the next exposure. When you get your film developed, all of the film will have exposed frames side by side, except for the first frame which will have an unexposed space between the exposed frames. The pair of images for a given photo will not be side by side on the film though. They will be separated by frames from other photos. So as an example, exposed frames 3 & 6 will be one image pair, frames 4 & 7 will be the next, and so on. Pretty ingenius idea by the cameras designer, Seton Rochwite, to minimize any wasted space on the film! Thanks for watching and have fun shooting with your Realist!
Thank you for your answer! That's very clear now. And yes, absolutely ingenious design.
Thank you for this video. Could you maybe make a video about details of mounting the slides?
Hi Christian, I was actually planning to do a video on slide mounting in the near future. I'm finishing another project and then plan to get more focused on getting that video done. Stay tuned and Thanks for watching!! Dave
Hi Jaime. Please resend your question so I can respond. Your original comment would not allow me to respond. Thanks!
Again, thanks for the great video.
I am experiencing that frames are slightly overlapping each other. Is this a common issue with these?
It is not unusual to get slight overlapping of frames with some Realist cameras, but only if it is slight. If it is significant, meaning you are getting a good chunk of image overlap so that when you go to cut the film into individual images you are getting more than just a fine line of extra image on the edge, then there may be a problem with the film transport that needs to be corrected. If it is only slight, then the overlap will be covered by the slide mount and you won't see it. Let me know if this sounds like what you are seeing. Hopefully this is helpful! Thanks again! Dave
It only did that the first roll. Guess I did something wrong. Second roll I took care and stopped right after the click, and hold the knob the whole time, from while releasing the lock and during the whole rotating action until next click, never releasing the knob, as I noticed that tension from the film pulled the film back a little after each time I turned the knob, and probably the culprit for that issue. I can live with that and just be careful while advancing the film. I also was having a heavy vignetting. Noticed that the shutter wasn't opening probably, one little screw from the shutter drive rod moving arm was about to break and the rod was loose. I have somehow fixed for now but am installi g a new screw in a fresh tapped hole. Vignetting is minimal now, but am not sure if its still the shutter not opening completely.
I have heard that the f3.5 version of the camera is prone to this vignetting problem on the smallest apertures. Do you know if all of them have that on the corners?
Is a huge drawback for me as I usually go for smaller apertures.
I have a working Sputnik is a great camera but with 6 images per roll I don't use it a lot.
Sounds like you have a handle on the frame overlap issue which is good. Could have also been caused by holding down the film advance release button too long as you are winding to advance the film. Release the button as soon as the advance knob starts to turn. The f3.5 versions do vignette at the smallest aperture. I have f3.5 and f2.8 Realists. I don't typically see a vignetting issue shooting at f16 on my 3.5, but do at f22 . No vignetting with the f2.8 version even at f22, but I generally don't close all the way down to f22 very often. I've gotten great results from both the f3.5 and f2.8 versions! @@LambeLab
I found a Stereo Realist camera amongst my father's things after he died last year - I'd never heard of such a thing before. There were many slide images and two viewers. They all had belonged to his father, my grandfather, who died when I was 11 and I never really knew him. Through his photos, I am getting a sense of who he was. The quality of the images in stereo give a depth of meaning to the images I was not prepared for. Anyway, very dumb question, but is it true that you never look through a viewfinder when you take a picture with this camera?
Hi J. Actually you do look through a viewfinder when using this camera. The small round window to the left on the lower back of the camera is what you look through to compose and frame your shot. You have to have the lens cover flipped up, or open, in order to see anything. I think that's awesome that you discovered this camera and that you now have this connection to your grandfather. Stereo images are unique and amazing, and give a much more realistic reproduction of the scene being photographed. I'm so glad you have those images and a viewer to enjoy seeing them! I'm happy to help answer any other questions you have regarding your Stereo Realist camera, using it, helping correct any potential problems, or just about stereo photography in general. Thanks again for watching! Dave
If you use a light meter it is best to measure the direct light falling on the camera and not reflected light reading. Direct light reading best for slide film.
I understand using a camera to meter for the realist , I understand setting the shutterspeed and aperature but you didnt mention setting the ISO speed on the digital camera before obtaining what to set on the realist
I actually do say to set the ISO on the digital camera to ISO 100 twice in the video, since I'm using ISO 100 speed film in my Stereo Realist. First when I show how to use the Sunny 16 Rule, after explaining it, with my digital camera. I mention it again later in the video when I'm out in the field going through the process of how to shoot with the Stereo Realist, first part when I talk about metering the scene to get the correct exposure settings. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! Dave
The chart you showed on your lens cap, couldn’t you just update the numbers to match the modern film?
Yes, you could certainly do that! I thought it might be tricky though to try to explain that, as some of the combinations wouldn't quite work. You would need to make a 3 to 3.5 stop aperture adjustment(smaller aperture) for each shutter speed shown, and for some of the slower shutter speeds shown on the table, you would run out of stops before you got to the correct stop adjustment. But you are absolutely correct! I may work that into a future video, but for the purpose of this video I just wanted to make people aware not to use those combos. Do you have a Realist? If so, I hope you are having fun shooting with it!! Thanks for the comment! Dave
@@davepichette825 I just got a realist yesterday and it’s my first camera ever. I wanted to take more stereos and using my phone has been tricky so I thought a realist might help cause taking the separate 2 photos is hard sometimes. I did happen to find a chart for the 100 speed film that should definitely help. I could send it to you if you’d like. All I need now is to figure out the distance and I should be good. I was told the camera should work but the lenses just need to be cleaned
@@LongAwayMay Thats great! Wow, your first camera, and its a Realist!? Sweet! In terms of the distance, the most effective way to start with the distance, or focus, is to set the focus point at 10 feet and the aperture at 16. With that, anything in your view frame that is 5 feet away from you out to infinity will be in focus. From there its just a matter of setting the shutter speed for the lighting conditions. On a sunny day, 1/100th of a second would work, as described in the video. On an overcast day you would have to use a slower shutter speed, 1/50th or 1/25th of a second. As a new camera user, make sure you clean the lenses with lens tissue and lens cleaner if possible. Paper towels or something similar can scratch the lenses, as that paper is more abrasive. Does the camera otherwise seem to be in decent condition? If you need any info about your Realist, cameras, or photography in general, I would be happy to help out! If its easier to work through regular email, in case photos of the camera to be attached you can email me directly at davepichette825@gmail.com. If your camera is working correctly, then I think you will be impressed with the quality of the images you can make with a Realist! A good test to see if the shutter speeds sound accurate is to set the shutter speed to one second and fire it. If the timing seems close to a second then you should be looking good. if it sounds more like a few seconds, then the shutter will need to be cleaned. Let me know how you make out. Thanks!!
You can take 3D photos with a digital camera, but they won't come close to the realism of viewing a stereo slide in a stereo viewer. The hard part is mounting the slides so that the stereo 'window' is in the best position. The image should be just behind the window unless there is a part of the image that pokes through the window without being at the edge. A poorly mounted slide is no good. The next hardest part is exposure. There is very little latitude with slide film so your exposure should be perfect. In order to achieve that, I always bracket my exposures (3 pictures, one stop under and one stop over in addition to the one given by your light meter). Use hyperfocal scale to get the maximum depth of focus. Avoid throwing the background out of focus the way you normally would with 'flat' photography. When you view a slide that has a great deal of depth of field, your eyes with only focus on one area at a time. I have the 2.8 version of this camera, but I rarely use this aperture.
Hey Joe. Great comments! I agree that digital stereo doesn’t compare to viewing a stereo slide in a stereo viewer. There are certain qualities stereo slides have that I don’t feel can be duplicated with digital. I also like using max depth in stereo slides. Much more realistic when viewing the image. I tend not to bracket though due to the cost of film and because I try to preview the exposure with my digital camera so I’m usually on target with exposure. Though I also never use the larger apertures, the 2.8 version is advantageous because you don’t get vignetting at the smallest apertures which you can get with the 3.5 version. I do still use my 3.5 also though as it was my first Realist and It produces sharp images. Thanks so much for the comments and for checking out the video. Stereo Realists are awesome!!
Dave
@@davepichette825 I also use a Revere and a Kodak Stereo Camera. I find the Kodak loads and rewinds faster, and comparing it with a 3.5 Realist, it's just as sharp and doesn't vignette. For intentional double exposures where I appear twice in the same frame, I use the Revere, because it's easier to block off half the lens with electrical tape as I expose each side. Of course you can't use the double exposure feature on the Kodak because the tripod mount is in the way. The Realist is the easiest to service and take apart. I once dropped a 2.8 Realist in my lake and had to go diving for it. I took it apart to dry it out. The film was ruined, but after the camera dried, I reassembled it and it was good as new. The Kodak is very bad in this respect. If you're not careful, the lenses will not focus in tandem when you reassemble the camera. If you buy a Kodak, try it out ASAP. If the lenses don't focus in tandem, send it back for a refund. I use RBT reusable plastic mounts because I love how you can raise and lower each frame with respect to the other frame.
Interesting info on the other stereo cameras. I am a collector and user of Realists, and love their durability and the fact that you can repair them. Realists are solid, well built, and have quality lenses. I also use the RBT mounts. They are adjustable, easy to use, and durable. Great story about your 2.8 in the lake. Amazing. Would love to hear more about your stereo shooting experiences. Always great to make new stereo contact! My email is on my channel if communicating by email is easier. Thanks again!
Dave