I own a clothing company and graphic design company, I do high grade super breathable material that cannot he bested by cotton, and I make IN AMERICA, if you ever want to see some stuff message me and keep those vids coming!
Scott, awesome vid as usual mate. Another massive factor in retaining wall posts is the ground conditions you're going into. You can be 2m deep but if it's all top soil or sand, that wall is going to move. Best thing for timber post retaining walls in sketchy ground is to chuck a deadman at each post.
That's the thing with this wall, it's failed, but it's also not thaaat bad, concrete around the posts, drainflo, scoria, a lot better than the sketchy crap you sometimes see, 100mm H4 fenceposts dropped into a bit of drymix, a bunch of 50mm H3.2 or those old edged half rounds that were stacked behind the garage for 20 years nailed across them, and the soil pushed back into place above it.
Good deductions Scott on the retaining wall. Another reason it failed may be due to a lack of lateral shear resistance from the king posts. Kings posts too far apart. A 1m wide geotextile layer at mid depth behind the wall would also decrease the lateral loading on the wall. Don't forget your weepholes. Tilting the wall back 10° from the vertical gives a better look. Vertical walls have the illusion of leaning over.
The posts didn't sink or bust out the front of the concrete, they just didn't go deep enough and there wasn't sufficient drainage. The bottom of the post is best sitting on drainage aggregate or no fines concrete, not fully encapsulated with normal concrete. If you're concerned about the post slipping you can put some bolts in to act as shear studs, but the load is acting laterally anyway.
I replaced a retaining wall at my last house and when it came time to backfill the digger operator showed up a day early with a 4 ton and track rolled the fill and pushed a 100 mm bow in the wall while I was at work. Came home and saw his track marks all along the the back of the top board. I'm still a little dark on it even though we've since sold the house
Great video, I had noticed you mentioned an alternative method of setting timber posts is engulfing evenly across the entirety of the base of the timber post. 1:29 I found that method over time will cause the wood to rot within the cement due to the moisture not having anywhere below to drain or escape. Through experience, i found that setting your post vertical and adding 3 or so inches of compacted dirt/aggregate then adding a doughnut shaped, .5cuyd bag of concrete and compacted backfill will hold a post in place throughout time while maintaining the timbers structural integrity. Also that is some great equipment you’ve got there. I’m looking forward to future video!
I was told that posts shouldn’t have concrete on the bottom because water that seeps into the post has nowhere to go. I’d like your thoughts. Great video!
Concrete under the piles is important, mostly for protection for the posts. If wood is permanently saturated, it lasts pretty well. New Zealand swamp kauri is preserved for thousands of years, however a log lying in the bush will rot out in years. If there's no air, very few organisms will attack it.
It's why you are supposed to put rock/gravel at the bottom, then put the post on top. When you fill it with concrete, it seeps under the post, yet it leaves enough grooves for water to drain. What you don't want is the log directly in water and earth, it will rot quick as hell, even pressure treated.
@@TechieTard This sounds like a very good description, I know GregVan has given the topic a lot of thought www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/fences/index.html Here's the one where he argues the soil type and water level are the most important factors to consider when choosing what type of assembly to construct www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/fences/gravel_at_post_bottom.html
I'm pretty sure you guys just dug up the house at the back of our office - can you keep it down a bit - we're trying to watch RUclips videos over here .. hahahha 😆
Having concrete below your posts is ill advised; the water will seep between the post and the concrete, run down to the bottom and (if fully surrounded by concrete) stay there, with no place to drain; which leads to rot very quickly. In stead thorough compaction and aggregate in a fair diameter, like crushed basalt or granite, is a perfect base. It is even good practice to, not only have the post sit on the aggregate, but even surround the bottom 3-5 cm of the post, before pouring the concrete around it. Regards
I love how you guys wear Ppe at all appropriate times. Currently working with a crew that doesn’t allow time to remove or equip ppe. I thought keeping it on but it easily gets in the way easily. Might have to look for work elsewhere.
Scott, you don't want to encapsulate the bottom of any post in concrete. Water gets trapped in the concrete sleeve and with no way to get out it promotes rot in the post. In the construction of a wooden retaining wall run at least two timbers back into the upper grade. Tie these "sleeper" timbers into the grade via rebar through the timber and locked into a concrete footing. Place course stone against the inside of the wall for drainage through the wall timbers. Follow these tips and your wall will outlast you!
Came across you channel in my recommendation and glad I did happy to see RUclips’s finally pushing content from smaller RUclipsrs and not just big corporations.
2/3rds in the ground 1/3rd out of the ground is the general rule of thumb here in Oz. And not much point having screenings or scoria if you don’t have a slotted aggy in there too. And on walls that size it always pays to lean the wall back around 10°+. Great vid Scott! 👍🏼🔨
In Canada we use what’s called a “dead man” to cantilever the wall back into the bank. Tie a timber in perpendicular to your wall and send it back at least the height of the wall into the bank, at the end of the dead man put a cross member a few feet wide, parallel to the wall. Bury it all below grade. We also separate our drainage from native soil using free draining fabric, so the drainage aggregate doesn’t get clogged with mud over time. I’ve never seen anyone put footings down below grade for retaining walls here. Although we do put four foot deep footings on our fences due to the frost in winter.
One of the main problems I see week in week out on brick or block built walls is hydrostatic pressure. People forget the weep holes in the wall or the stone and Ag line at the back. This and under sizing are the two main ones in Sydney
Another awesome video Scott look forward to the next episode if you want to see some great videos on retaining walls you should check out essential craftsman he has a whole series on building some massive concrete one to develop a site for a house great watch
You could also make shoe-shape concrete post, so it would be under the upper ground giving wall counter-pressure against horizontal forces, althou you'd need to rebar concrete.
Whats that shovel type thing you used a few videos ago for scooping dirt out of a hole. Like two sided shovel that clamps down and picks up dirt. Love the vids man good work. From an irish fan
Mr SB. You going to love that 36v chainsaw! I have one too. No fuel, no struggling to to start , no spark plugs and no down time! Can’t wait to hear what you think about it! Have fun with it!
I’ve always done two thirds in one third out and concrete to the top , some people said it was an over kill but all are still ok , that’s the simple way but any sizeable wall should have engineered plans then you can sleep well. Some people will just take the cheaper quote especially it they are considering selling.
Looking forward to the next episode. The 36v Makita chainsaws are great ( I have one amongst all my other Makita stuff) and it’s fast becoming one of my favourite tools, I hope you’ll agree Keep up the good work Scott.
You should have a proper camera crew and editors and all that jazz doing all the "RUclips" part for you... You are honestly amazing, and your content is legit gold... You work fulltime as a carpenter, and i can only imagine how much time you spend editing.. Gotten real good at it aswell...!
Essential Craftsman makes amazing videos, I particularly enjoyed this one where he describes setting up the forms for a very large retaining wall ruclips.net/video/tMRspVGm5WE/видео.html , and also this other video on the forces and modes of failure on retaining walls ruclips.net/video/iDzp6xEAT2I/видео.html
Hey man, good stuff. Only recently found your channel but I'm enjoying watching something local. The editing suits your personality well I think. I'm doing a trades course now, here's hoping someday I'll see you in person. :)
Looking at other instructionals, shouldn't the wall structure go back under the earth being supported so that the weight down stops the wall being pushed forwards? Like an L shape back under the earth
I've never seen a post slide through a concrete surround. Unless it was completely rotted out. Concrete below the post should help with reducing rotting but the friction on the surround is plenty to stop the post descending. I see when removing those old posts most were rotten just below the ground where they are wet but also have access to oxygen. In the case of this retaining wall the force is not really down but side ways with the weight of soil and water build up. Seeing how rotten the wood was I suspect the wood was only H3 or poorly tantalized.
The post disnt appear to be sinking/ slipping. Doesn't look like it's treated either. I think the main thing here is the improper to no drainage which caused the lag. But wasnt actually down. Didn't hear how long that wall was in place, but walls with wood will eventually give no matter what. Too much show time for me. But thanks for showing some good stuff
If this is the north shore, then it's probably an expansive clay soil? Which when the ground below the wall dries out (and last few years have been very dry), the ground shrinks and therefore wont resist the posts leaning over.
Hej mate. Looking forward to the chainsaw episode. Your method might be a tad bit slower but it is the proper way of doing things. Is Chef Paurea visiting anytime soon....? I see that you changed your description of the video, or I am just slow. Wish that I could do more than just like and comment, have a tight budget atm. Cheers from Holland
I hope this will have a safety rail above as all retaining walls over 1m need atleast a 1m safety rail in Auckland much love to the auckland unitary plan
Surely for a retaining wall you need a "L" shape retaining wall design to resist rotation and should be confirmed by structural calaculation for the proposed lateral loads that will be applied. Just drilling vertically will not provide adequate resistance to retain with lateral loads applied direct to the wall ..
This is true where the lateral loads exceed vertical tangential resistance. In this case since soil has a compressed dense pressure ratio (CDPR) of 15:1 at seal level (760mmhg). The veritical tangential pressure load would need to exceed 1800mm, with a span in excess of 50m. Since (9.8m/S2 X the CPDR 15:1) * 760mmhg is less than the sum of squares. Therefore big posts and shit loads of concrete should be fine.
Wouldnt a pure concrete retaining wall be much stronger ? i mean its probly very far down to some solid ground to flace rebar in to hold it but it would seem like a much more solid solution other than rebuilding it in wood. just my thought. looking forward to see how you guys do it
Wood in the ground is always a bad idea unless it has an incredible amount of chemicals it’s been treated with. Standard pressure treated wood is a time bomb
Because it’s not brick or block it last forever you should not be building retaining walls out of timber not gonna last more than 20 years just gonna rot and fall over typical chippies building stuff that isn’t gonna stand the test of time
How would you ever get the grass where you put all that dirt etc back to normal !? How it looked before you started !? Has nothing been invented yet like a hard top or rubber mat that can cover the grass and help with the clean up !?!? ?!:) jw :$)
![Build a Retaining Wall: Tongue and Groove Boards [Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nMkRfpWXO2c/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lil Uzi Vert - We Good [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DrSfBULAsek/mqdefault.jpg)
Hope you guys like the glue and the shirts! Keep the videos coming Scott!
Awesome! Been subscribed to you for couple years. Scott about 1 or so. Cool to see RUclipsrs grow together.
Can't believe you sent him that stuff that's really cool of you bro. Keep up the great work, your work is very well performed as well .
my favorite two youtubers. waiting you guys update everyday. it's amazing.
I own a clothing company and graphic design company, I do high grade super breathable material that cannot he bested by cotton, and I make IN AMERICA, if you ever want to see some stuff message me and keep those vids coming!
Mike Vroman
Well said.
Finish carpentry brought me to your channel, as a suggested video! 2 of my favourite channels. Keep up the work bro.
I watch him all the time always has great content
Agree. Both great channels. Watch every episode from here in Manchester England.
Finish Carpentry and your Channel are my favorites! Shoutout to both of you!
Same here!
Same plus RR building
Scott, awesome vid as usual mate. Another massive factor in retaining wall posts is the ground conditions you're going into. You can be 2m deep but if it's all top soil or sand, that wall is going to move. Best thing for timber post retaining walls in sketchy ground is to chuck a deadman at each post.
That's the thing with this wall, it's failed, but it's also not thaaat bad, concrete around the posts, drainflo, scoria, a lot better than the sketchy crap you sometimes see, 100mm H4 fenceposts dropped into a bit of drymix, a bunch of 50mm H3.2 or those old edged half rounds that were stacked behind the garage for 20 years nailed across them, and the soil pushed back into place above it.
Good deductions Scott on the retaining wall. Another reason it failed may be due to a lack of lateral shear resistance from the king posts. Kings posts too far apart. A 1m wide geotextile layer at mid depth behind the wall would also decrease the lateral loading on the wall. Don't forget your weepholes. Tilting the wall back 10° from the vertical gives a better look. Vertical walls have the illusion of leaning over.
Tilting at 10deg should also provide a slight lifting force on the posts, which resists the diving effect that Scott describes.
The posts didn't sink or bust out the front of the concrete, they just didn't go deep enough and there wasn't sufficient drainage. The bottom of the post is best sitting on drainage aggregate or no fines concrete, not fully encapsulated with normal concrete. If you're concerned about the post slipping you can put some bolts in to act as shear studs, but the load is acting laterally anyway.
I replaced a retaining wall at my last house and when it came time to backfill the digger operator showed up a day early with a 4 ton and track rolled the fill and pushed a 100 mm bow in the wall while I was at work. Came home and saw his track marks all along the the back of the top board.
I'm still a little dark on it even though we've since sold the house
I love your doing it the right way workmanship. All the way from Norway.
Great video, I had noticed you mentioned an alternative method of setting timber posts is engulfing evenly across the entirety of the base of the timber post. 1:29
I found that method over time will cause the wood to rot within the cement due to the moisture not having anywhere below to drain or escape.
Through experience, i found that setting your post vertical and adding 3 or so inches of compacted dirt/aggregate then adding a doughnut shaped, .5cuyd bag of concrete and compacted backfill will hold a post in place throughout time while maintaining the timbers structural integrity.
Also that is some great equipment you’ve got there. I’m looking forward to future video!
I was told that posts shouldn’t have concrete on the bottom because water that seeps into the post has nowhere to go. I’d like your thoughts. Great video!
Concrete under the piles is important, mostly for protection for the posts. If wood is permanently saturated, it lasts pretty well. New Zealand swamp kauri is preserved for thousands of years, however a log lying in the bush will rot out in years. If there's no air, very few organisms will attack it.
It's why you are supposed to put rock/gravel at the bottom, then put the post on top. When you fill it with concrete, it seeps under the post, yet it leaves enough grooves for water to drain. What you don't want is the log directly in water and earth, it will rot quick as hell, even pressure treated.
@@TechieTard This sounds like a very good description, I know GregVan has given the topic a lot of thought www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/fences/index.html Here's the one where he argues the soil type and water level are the most important factors to consider when choosing what type of assembly to construct www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/fences/gravel_at_post_bottom.html
@@TechieTard Was the way I was taught
I'm pretty sure you guys just dug up the house at the back of our office - can you keep it down a bit - we're trying to watch RUclips videos over here .. hahahha 😆
Having concrete below your posts is ill advised; the water will seep between the post and the concrete, run down to the bottom and (if fully surrounded by concrete) stay there, with no place to drain; which leads to rot very quickly.
In stead thorough compaction and aggregate in a fair diameter, like crushed basalt or granite, is a perfect base. It is even good practice to, not only have the post sit on the aggregate, but even surround the bottom 3-5 cm of the post, before pouring the concrete around it.
Regards
Keep up the good work scot watch ur channel in England
I want a digger. I have no real reason to have one and no section to use it on but it would be awesome.
I love how you guys wear Ppe at all appropriate times. Currently working with a crew that doesn’t allow time to remove or equip ppe. I thought keeping it on but it easily gets in the way easily. Might have to look for work elsewhere.
Scott, you don't want to encapsulate the bottom of any post in concrete. Water gets trapped in the concrete sleeve and with no way to get out it promotes rot in the post. In the construction of a wooden retaining wall run at least two timbers back into the upper grade. Tie these "sleeper" timbers into the grade via rebar through the timber and locked into a concrete footing. Place course stone against the inside of the wall for drainage through the wall timbers.
Follow these tips and your wall will outlast you!
Came across you channel in my recommendation and glad I did happy to see RUclips’s finally pushing content from smaller RUclipsrs and not just big corporations.
Your Videos are great! I’m a plumber! But carpentry has always been an idea of mine for a dual trade! Your work makes me want to pursue it even more!
That’s awesome Richard sent you some shirts.
Another one of my favorite channels.............but Scott brown carpentry will always be #1😎👊🏽💯
GREAT INTO! "Every single --- " BOOM!! Awesome! Great vid, Scott, and really cool project. Looking forward to seeing how it comes together!
2/3rds in the ground 1/3rd out of the ground is the general rule of thumb here in Oz. And not much point having screenings or scoria if you don’t have a slotted aggy in there too. And on walls that size it always pays to lean the wall back around 10°+.
Great vid Scott! 👍🏼🔨
Matthew Snart what do u recon is the limit depth for a 2 man 350mm wide auger?
Elijah I have no idea! Whatever the depth the auger bit is!
In Canada we use what’s called a “dead man” to cantilever the wall back into the bank. Tie a timber in perpendicular to your wall and send it back at least the height of the wall into the bank, at the end of the dead man put a cross member a few feet wide, parallel to the wall. Bury it all below grade. We also separate our drainage from native soil using free draining fabric, so the drainage aggregate doesn’t get clogged with mud over time. I’ve never seen anyone put footings down below grade for retaining walls here. Although we do put four foot deep footings on our fences due to the frost in winter.
One of the main problems I see week in week out on brick or block built walls is hydrostatic pressure. People forget the weep holes in the wall or the stone and Ag line at the back. This and under sizing are the two main ones in Sydney
Another awesome video Scott look forward to the next episode if you want to see some great videos on retaining walls you should check out essential craftsman he has a whole series on building some massive concrete one to develop a site for a house great watch
Fascinating & interesting .. I’ve been waiting for your videos SBC. 😎☀️looking forward to the rebuild.
Scott, adding dead men or tie backs will increase the strength of a retaining wall tenfold. Good video!
you should do a outreach program for the youth called scott's tots
Yeah. he should pledge to pay their college tuition or something
Bro you fully need some t-shirts. I'm hanging out for one with the van stripes.
Yes that would be a perfect idea. Take note Scott
You could also make shoe-shape concrete post, so it would be under the upper ground giving wall counter-pressure against horizontal forces, althou you'd need to rebar concrete.
Whats that shovel type thing you used a few videos ago for scooping dirt out of a hole. Like two sided shovel that clamps down and picks up dirt. Love the vids man good work. From an irish fan
post hole digger
Can you make your episodes longer I love watching them but the finish 2 quick then can’t wait for the next 😂
Mr SB. You going to love that 36v chainsaw! I have one too. No fuel, no struggling to to start , no spark plugs and no down time! Can’t wait to hear what you think about it! Have fun with it!
Sven Seeberger I hope battery power is going to get even more common , bloody annoying sniffing and listening to a generator all day haha
I’ve always done two thirds in one third out and concrete to the top , some people said it was an over kill but all are still ok , that’s the simple way but any sizeable wall should have engineered plans then you can sleep well.
Some people will just take the cheaper quote especially it they are considering selling.
So when will get essintial craftsman to NZ for a cross over or will you ever come your the us for building here
Looking forward to the next episode. The 36v Makita chainsaws are great ( I have one amongst all my other Makita stuff) and it’s fast becoming one of my favourite tools, I hope you’ll agree Keep up the good work Scott.
Love the videos Scott I've learned quite a bit from you being a first year apprentice keep up the good work 😊
"See if this works. If it doesn't work, edit it" hahahah gave me a good laff.
I’m hooked to this channel love the content dude more longer videos would be ace -from Glasgow
Agreed! Definitely one of the best channels on RUclips. Also from Glasgow
Paul McFadyen small world mate 🤘🏼 hope your well
Great video. Ideally, a retaining wall should also lean towards the soil it is holding, and include “tie backs” or a “dead man” to resist leaning.
East Texas Craftsman Are deadmans always made out of timber?
@@MsElijah16 No sir. You can use concrete and cables too. It's basically an anchor so I'm sure you can get creative with it.
East Texas Craftsman ok thanks
Nice project. Looking forward to see how you finish the back filling of the wall and whether or not you lean the wall backward a little.
Edwin George will be interesting aye
You should have a proper camera crew and editors and all that jazz doing all the "RUclips" part for you... You are honestly amazing, and your content is legit gold... You work fulltime as a carpenter, and i can only imagine how much time you spend editing.. Gotten real good at it aswell...!
You got a great channel Scott! I like your videos a lot! How long did the first retaining wall last by the way?
Love you channel scott, greetings from Belgium
love the channel Scott!! watching all the way from Canada. Much Love!!
Really useful and interesting video as always!
How bout making the footing an "L" shape going under the elevated surface?
Z0mbie Hulk It's probably hard to dig a hole that shape,
Essential Craftsman makes amazing videos, I particularly enjoyed this one where he describes setting up the forms for a very large retaining wall ruclips.net/video/tMRspVGm5WE/видео.html , and also this other video on the forces and modes of failure on retaining walls ruclips.net/video/iDzp6xEAT2I/видео.html
Hi Scott.
Keep up the good work. Looking forward to see how you build the wall as compared to how we would go about it in oz. Usually very similar.
What kind of service do they offer, both before and after purchase?
There is a retracing wall behind my house and it’s biggest then my house and I’m scared of it falling should I worry about it
You are such a natural really look forward to watching them well done son of mine 🤗
Hey man, good stuff. Only recently found your channel but I'm enjoying watching something local. The editing suits your personality well I think. I'm doing a trades course now, here's hoping someday I'll see you in person. :)
Another great episode Scott keep it up 👍
you have changed my life
Looking at other instructionals, shouldn't the wall structure go back under the earth being supported so that the weight down stops the wall being pushed forwards? Like an L shape back under the earth
I've never seen a post slide through a concrete surround. Unless it was completely rotted out. Concrete below the post should help with reducing rotting but the friction on the surround is plenty to stop the post descending. I see when removing those old posts most were rotten just below the ground where they are wet but also have access to oxygen. In the case of this retaining wall the force is not really down but side ways with the weight of soil and water build up. Seeing how rotten the wood was I suspect the wood was only H3 or poorly tantalized.
The post disnt appear to be sinking/ slipping. Doesn't look like it's treated either. I think the main thing here is the improper to no drainage which caused the lag. But wasnt actually down. Didn't hear how long that wall was in place, but walls with wood will eventually give no matter what. Too much show time for me. But thanks for showing some good stuff
Pour concrete with a chainsaw?!?!
Haha nice one again guys!
Nice video man keep it up when u getting some merch??
Wow how much did u charge them? I'm in a similar situation, but I have been told I need an engineer to do the design 1st
Lots of work bro!!
Love the Vid !! I was missing you doing some actual work 🤣🤣🤣
love your videos bro, you should totally get some t shirts to sell as well , id rock a scott brown carpentry shirt at work for sure !
Sick Scott, Mean episode
If this is the north shore, then it's probably an expansive clay soil? Which when the ground below the wall dries out (and last few years have been very dry), the ground shrinks and therefore wont resist the posts leaning over.
Love your vids bro. Big fan
Hej mate. Looking forward to the chainsaw episode. Your method might be a tad bit slower but it is the proper way of doing things. Is Chef Paurea visiting anytime soon....? I see that you changed your description of the video, or I am just slow. Wish that I could do more than just like and comment, have a tight budget atm. Cheers from Holland
Love your work Chef Paurea 😂
@@liamwoodmass3882Heil Chef Paurea!
Great job 👍🏼
Great video Scott
I hope this will have a safety rail above as all retaining walls over 1m need atleast a 1m safety rail in Auckland much love to the auckland unitary plan
So, when can we order SBC T-Shirts? Or perhaps Polos?
Cooking with Paerau turtle necks?
Good job bro. Greetings from Cali .
Surely for a retaining wall you need a "L" shape retaining wall design to resist rotation and should be confirmed by structural calaculation for the proposed lateral loads that will be applied. Just drilling vertically will not provide adequate resistance to retain with lateral loads applied direct to the wall ..
This is true where the lateral loads exceed vertical tangential resistance. In this case since soil has a compressed dense pressure ratio (CDPR) of 15:1 at seal level (760mmhg). The veritical tangential pressure load would need to exceed 1800mm, with a span in excess of 50m. Since (9.8m/S2 X the CPDR 15:1) * 760mmhg is less than the sum of squares. Therefore big posts and shit loads of concrete should be fine.
Scott can you please do longer vids?
I done my retaining walls out of I-Beams and Concert 1.200m high 1.400m deep holes to 3.600m high 4.000m deep holes last a life time.
God damit 2nt
:)
Love your content i have learned alot even though i am from OHIO
Wouldnt a pure concrete retaining wall be much stronger ? i mean its probly very far down to some solid ground to flace rebar in to hold it but it would seem like a much more solid solution other than rebuilding it in wood. just my thought. looking forward to see how you guys do it
Wood in the ground is always a bad idea unless it has an incredible amount of chemicals it’s been treated with. Standard pressure treated wood is a time bomb
Whoooooo hooooo !!!!! ANOTHER ONE !!!!!!
hahaha "scott brown here"
Looky you mr scotty brownie
cool vid
Maybe the dirt on top of scoria built up over time
Drainage is key
because you drove a digger way to close to the edge?
I can’t believe you use timber to build retaining walls... hollow blocks rebar and footings would last 10x longer.
Is the use of a Deadman not a common practice there?
Anthony Cavella what's deadman?
@@MsElijah16 It's a man who has been run over by a bus.
FrameRite Airdrie haha or stuck his tongue in the toaster aye
I would use stone :)
When doing retaining walls anything over 1m needs to be engineered to suit the soil rating
Sure RUclips unsubscribes me
Plastic coffee cup lids aren't cool
Most of them you get in NZ these days are biodegradable - I put 'em on the compost heap. ☕👍
Awww, did the scary man drinking coffee upset you princess?
@@kevocos lol - hey you're that learner motorbike dude aren't you? How's that going? Got your own bike yet?
Because it’s not brick or block it last forever you should not be building retaining walls out of timber not gonna last more than 20 years just gonna rot and fall over typical chippies building stuff that isn’t gonna stand the test of time
As a guide post should be 2 thirds of its length into the ground.....
How would you ever get the grass where you put all that dirt etc back to normal !? How it looked before you started !? Has nothing been invented yet like a hard top or rubber mat that can cover the grass and help with the clean up !?!? ?!:) jw :$)
First
Pointless work. Google for "jordarmeringsnett" and related technology. Like your channel, but do what you are good at. Greetings from Norway
First:)