I've said many times of your videos, to explain so much so well is just great. Your style changes to suit the subject content and delivery I like very much and makes the episodes interesting and engaging to watch. For me, just the job. Thanks again Rob.
I have an AD200 and a V850II and I also have a limited budget. Since they are not super powerful and I don't like to depend on the golden hour, I am considering buying a variable ND filter. I also need to preserve the life of the flashes. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Very informative video Rob. I assume if you have a 3 stop (0.9) ND filter, this may also work instead of a variable filter? Can this technique also apply to more dynamic portraits eg wedding photography?
Hi Rob, Could you please explain what are the limitation of your camera when it comes to sync speeds? I thought we can use pretty much any shutter speed above the sync speed of the camera when we use HSS. But it seems not to be the case.
Hi. You can use any shutter speed in hss mode. It's only limited by the cameras fastest mechanical shutter speed. On the EM10ii, it's 1/4000th. The EM1ii is 1/8000th.
Hi Rob Thank you for another excellent video. On your light stand, why do you have the extra bracket to hold the flash instead of just using the cold shoe that comes with the stand? Is that to align the flash more on axis with the umbrella? Thanks
I prefer the "S-Mount" as it takes the tension off the fragile hotshoe on the flash. It also has a bowens mount so I can quickly swap out with any other modifier such as a soft box.
@@RobTrek OK, that makes sense. I don't have much experience with flash, so I was not aware of that weakness, but I am finding your flash episodes very inspiring. Thanks you.
ND Filters reduce light similar to polarizers. They are indexed with terms like ND2 to ND32. The number represents how much light is reduced. ND2 means 1/2 the light. 32 means 1/32 the light. To convert to stops of light, take the square root of the denominator(approximately).
Hi I am looking at my first filter I deal with Henry's in Canada and they have a CAMERON PRO 72MM MC CIRCULAR POLARIZER FILTER for $132.00 Canadian do you have any input that could help me please.
That's probably an excellent filter but I don't have any experience with that brand. I use a Hoya filter I bought years ago. The variable ND filter I used in this video is a K&F Concepts Nanotec.
Thanks for sharing. Excellent video and I enjoyed it. I don't need expensive equipment to do outdoor flash. May I ask what is the size of filter step ring for the lens 45mm 1.8 MSC dia:37mm, so that I can buy the Variable ND filter that goes with it. Thanks
Thanks. I bought a 62mm threaded filter and a step ring kit together. So it takes 5 step rings to go from 37 to 62mm. I bought the 62mm so it would fit my largest lens. However you can buy a smaller ND filter to fit the 37mm ring size. Here are the exact parts: Step Ring kit: amzn.to/2OAGa1Q ND Filter 62mm: amzn.to/2OAGa1Q ND Filter 37mm: amzn.to/3vCMh66 Note: These are my Amazon affiliate links and I'll earn a small fee for qualitied purchases. Thanks!
@@RobTrek, Thank you very much for your response and help. Is vignette around the corner the reason you bought 62mm step up ring? I see it happened sometimes with my wide lens like 7-14mm lens. Olympus EM1m3 has internal ND6-ND32 should we use in this case? Thank you
@@phanxquang I bought the 62mm so I could fit my larger lenses and step down for smaller lenses. If I bought a smaller ND, then it would vignette if I step it up back to 62mm. So best to buy the largest size you reasonably need. For example, I do have larger lenses but will never use the ND on them. Vignetting can happen on wide angle lenses and sometimes can't be avoided. Sometimes the step rings themselves can be causing the vignette. Also, the IBIS moves the sensor making the possibility of vignetting even greater. If this happens to you, be sure to frame the scene so you can crop out the vignette in post processing later and turn off IBIS.
Another great video Rob!. I'm not sure why in the last section the 1/180th shutter was blinking as it is slower than the 1/250th limit for even a normal flash. Is it because the Godox in TTL mode had reached its maximum power?
I believe the sync speed is set by the trigger, telling the camera that it can't go any faster. Probably has to do with the wireless transmission delay. This does not affect high speed sync, as once the flash receives the signal, it fires in hss without the need for another signal.
Hi again Rob, Such a useful and well- presented tutorial. Really appreciate it, thanks so much, gradually Improving my flash techniques, all down to you! Thanks a bunch, another Rob
I've enjoyed this series of videos on out door flash and ND filters. Haven't really needed to use this technique in my photography at this time but I know where to find the information. Excellent videos.
Hi Rob, I noticed you took great care selecting your shutter speeds to get the correct ambient light exposure, but on every shot TTL over ruled it and generally reduced the shutter speed. It would have been interesting to see how the pic would have turned out if you had shot in manual to maintain the settings you selected....
You are correct. My intent with watching the shutter speed was to make sure I stayed within the limits of the camera's (and nd filter) ability to get the desired ambient light exposure. Until the shutter speed indicator stops blinking, I don't really know how many stops away I am. So in much brighter scenes, I'll know my settings will work even after ttl kicks in. Certainly, manual mode is the way to go for consistent ambient light exposure but I wanted to simplify the process by working with just exposure comp once we got within the limits of shutter speed. That said, I should do another video explaining this in more detail and use manual mode with ttl instead. Thanks.
That's bummer that some cameras cannot shoot in excess of 1/4000 second. 1/8000 like the full frame Sony cameras can achieve con pull your bacon out of the pan occasionally. I do ike a more powerful flash outdoors. My favorite flash for outdoors is the Godox TTL 360...
I believe higher end Olympus cameras do 1/800th, em5-ii, penf, em1-ii. etc... A more powerful flash would have definitely made this shot, but I wanted to demonstrate using a small flash.
I've said many times of your videos, to explain so much so well is just great. Your style changes to suit the subject content and delivery I like very much and makes the episodes interesting and engaging to watch. For me, just the job. Thanks again Rob.
Thanks for the kind feedback. I try to get out and show in settings that are appropriate for the technique.
I have an AD200 and a V850II and I also have a limited budget. Since they are not super powerful and I don't like to depend on the golden hour, I am considering buying a variable ND filter. I also need to preserve the life of the flashes. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Glad this helped you. -Rob
Always enjoy watching your videos - even if I am not so much into flash. I generally use it for rain and snow photography
Thanks. In the snow?
@@RobTrek yup to make the snowfall pop
Very informative video Rob. I assume if you have a 3 stop (0.9) ND filter, this may also work instead of a variable filter? Can this technique also apply to more dynamic portraits eg wedding photography?
Nicely done. Thanks Rob!
Thank you!
Excelent tutorial and very good demostrated.
Thank you!
Very informative, objective. Really like your videos.
Thanks.
Hi Rob, Could you please explain what are the limitation of your camera when it comes to sync speeds? I thought we can use pretty much any shutter speed above the sync speed of the camera when we use HSS. But it seems not to be the case.
Hi. You can use any shutter speed in hss mode. It's only limited by the cameras fastest mechanical shutter speed. On the EM10ii, it's 1/4000th. The EM1ii is 1/8000th.
Hey Rob, great video! :)
Thank you!
Incredible, truly a class taught by the master! Thank you so much.
Thanks, Satya!
Hi Rob
Thank you for another excellent video. On your light stand, why do you have the extra bracket to hold the flash instead of just using the cold shoe that comes with the stand? Is that to align the flash more on axis with the umbrella?
Thanks
I prefer the "S-Mount" as it takes the tension off the fragile hotshoe on the flash. It also has a bowens mount so I can quickly swap out with any other modifier such as a soft box.
@@RobTrek OK, that makes sense. I don't have much experience with flash, so I was not aware of that weakness, but I am finding your flash episodes very inspiring. Thanks you.
Does ND filter has any impact on aperture? Like I got to know that polarizer filter decreases the aperture by one stop.
ND Filters reduce light similar to polarizers. They are indexed with terms like ND2 to ND32. The number represents how much light is reduced. ND2 means 1/2 the light. 32 means 1/32 the light. To convert to stops of light, take the square root of the denominator(approximately).
Hi I am looking at my first filter I deal with Henry's in Canada and they have a CAMERON PRO 72MM MC CIRCULAR POLARIZER FILTER for $132.00 Canadian do you have any input that could help me please.
That's probably an excellent filter but I don't have any experience with that brand. I use a Hoya filter I bought years ago. The variable ND filter I used in this video is a K&F Concepts Nanotec.
Your tutorials are gold.
Thanks for posting again! I had to delete and repost because I found an error. I had reversed the +/-1 some of the text at the end!
No problem, Rob.
🙏👍🤓
Thanks for sharing. Excellent video and I enjoyed it. I don't need expensive equipment to do outdoor flash. May I ask what is the size of filter step ring for the lens 45mm 1.8 MSC dia:37mm, so that I can buy the Variable ND filter that goes with it. Thanks
Thanks. I bought a 62mm threaded filter and a step ring kit together. So it takes 5 step rings to go from 37 to 62mm. I bought the 62mm so it would fit my largest lens. However you can buy a smaller ND filter to fit the 37mm ring size. Here are the exact parts:
Step Ring kit: amzn.to/2OAGa1Q
ND Filter 62mm: amzn.to/2OAGa1Q
ND Filter 37mm: amzn.to/3vCMh66
Note: These are my Amazon affiliate links and I'll earn a small fee for qualitied purchases. Thanks!
@@RobTrek, Thank you very much for your response and help. Is vignette around the corner the reason you bought 62mm step up ring? I see it happened sometimes with my wide lens like 7-14mm lens. Olympus EM1m3 has internal ND6-ND32 should we use in this case? Thank you
@@phanxquang I bought the 62mm so I could fit my larger lenses and step down for smaller lenses. If I bought a smaller ND, then it would vignette if I step it up back to 62mm. So best to buy the largest size you reasonably need. For example, I do have larger lenses but will never use the ND on them. Vignetting can happen on wide angle lenses and sometimes can't be avoided. Sometimes the step rings themselves can be causing the vignette. Also, the IBIS moves the sensor making the possibility of vignetting even greater. If this happens to you, be sure to frame the scene so you can crop out the vignette in post processing later and turn off IBIS.
@@RobTrek Thanks that is very clever
Another great video Rob!. I'm not sure why in the last section the 1/180th shutter was blinking as it is slower than the 1/250th limit for even a normal flash. Is it because the Godox in TTL mode had reached its maximum power?
I believe the sync speed is set by the trigger, telling the camera that it can't go any faster. Probably has to do with the wireless transmission delay. This does not affect high speed sync, as once the flash receives the signal, it fires in hss without the need for another signal.
Hi again Rob,
Such a useful and well- presented tutorial. Really appreciate it, thanks so much, gradually Improving my flash techniques, all down to you! Thanks a bunch, another Rob
Thanks. Keep at it!
I've enjoyed this series of videos on out door flash and ND filters. Haven't really needed to use this technique in my photography at this time but I know where to find the information. Excellent videos.
Thanks. May want to practice a bit so when you need it you'll be ready!
Rob, this video was great. The summary at the end showing the different settings back to back was excellent. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. More than one way to skin a potato.
Hi Rob, I noticed you took great care selecting your shutter speeds to get the correct ambient light exposure, but on every shot TTL over ruled it and generally reduced the shutter speed. It would have been interesting to see how the pic would have turned out if you had shot in manual to maintain the settings you selected....
You are correct. My intent with watching the shutter speed was to make sure I stayed within the limits of the camera's (and nd filter) ability to get the desired ambient light exposure. Until the shutter speed indicator stops blinking, I don't really know how many stops away I am. So in much brighter scenes, I'll know my settings will work even after ttl kicks in. Certainly, manual mode is the way to go for consistent ambient light exposure but I wanted to simplify the process by working with just exposure comp once we got within the limits of shutter speed. That said, I should do another video explaining this in more detail and use manual mode with ttl instead. Thanks.
That's bummer that some cameras cannot shoot in excess of 1/4000 second. 1/8000 like the full frame Sony cameras can achieve con pull your bacon out of the pan occasionally. I do ike a more powerful flash outdoors. My favorite flash for outdoors is the Godox TTL 360...
I believe higher end Olympus cameras do 1/800th, em5-ii, penf, em1-ii. etc... A more powerful flash would have definitely made this shot, but I wanted to demonstrate using a small flash.
Shutter speeds at that speed tend to not be accurate
Just brilliant!!! Thank you, Rob!
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic series of tutorials Rob.
Thank you!
Very good explanation!
Thanks, Vimal.
Thank you for the walk trough. I learned a lot
Thanks for watching!