Appreciate the fine detail of this video. Seriously from the bottom of my soul, thank you sir. Have an open circuit/short on my Escalade, this is going to help me a lot and make it a nice quick easy find. I studied your diagram made it easy to understand. Been working on an Escalade for awhile as a project, has the VVT and the months I’ve been working on it i had the VVT on once and couldn’t believe the difference. It’s unreal. Started with 60 codes on the OBD2 and knocked most of them out with cleaning grounds, replaced quite a few parts, well alot, and now I’m here. Codes C0711-00 Level Control Air Pressure Sensor Circuit C0660-06 Level Control Exhaust Solenoid Valve Circuit - Low Voltage/Open Last code to clear and i pray she’ll run the VVT. Night and day difference when it kicks on. Been working in it for 2 months, dozens and dozens of hours, chasing the VVT haha driven it maybe 1000 miles; only had the VVT on for 3-4 miles after cleaning a ground behind fuse box to the Body control module under brake pedal. Thanks a million guy
Hey man ! Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. Yep, I do tend to get into the details a bit too much I think lol, but most times explaining the little details helps more than just a quick overview as it can be so many different things. Sounds like you have done a ton of work to get yours back on the road again so hopefully you’ll get the last little things fixed and it will be good to go ! Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
This is a very helpful video thank you! However, I'm confused on one thing. Where is the fuse in your diagram that is above the battery that goes to the suspension control? I've changed all 3 other fuses and the relay. The issue I'm having is as follows ; I have 2 brand new compressors, one will turn on for the 'self test' with key on or startup, but will not run even when commanded by the tech 2 scanner, the other new compressor wont do anything at all. Both compressors do turn on with direct 12v power. I'm thinking I may have a bad suspension controller(level control module?). Thank you!
Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. For the suspension controller fuse, I’m actually not sure where it is in the fuse box as it’s not listed anywhere…I suspect that it’s fuse also powers other electronics along with the suspension controller so they didn’t list it specifically. It is odd that the compressor will do the initial startup, but then won’t go ahead and run to level the suspension…unless there’s an issue with the level sensor that is on the axle that is also preventing the scanner from enabling the compressor possibly. Sorry I couldn’t be of much help, but if you get it figured out, comment back as I always like to learn what the issues turn out to be if someone encounters a new one. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Thank you for responding Steve. Bummer! I'll look for it(fuse). For clarification for me In your diagram, does level sensor refer to each corners height sensor(4 in total (the rod and ball joint that goes up and down with the body movement))?
@LordofChaos187 👍. Yes, for the rear ride height sensors, it looks like it uses the rear corner sensors to determine the height as there isn’t a separate one on the axle that I could find like what was on my Ford Expedition I had prior to the Escalade.
@@StevesDIYs I sort of figured it out. Ended up changing the level control module, and now it operate properly (new shocks, relay and compressor as well as those were bad). The tech2 scanner still wont activate the compressor, but maybe that is due to the compressor being aftermarket? I don't know, but it now functions properly otherwise (add weight to rear and it brings itself up to level etc). Very much appreciate your video!
@LordofChaos187 Thanks and glad you got it figured out 👍. Yep, as long as mines lifting and leveling out, I’ll just call it good lol. I can not get several of the modules on my different cars and trucks to talk to the scanners or coding software so I’ve always assumed they had an done an update or I’m on the wrong software rev.
Hello, the little wire jumpers I used were from an old harness connector I had laying around, but I believe they sell the small blade crimp ends at the auto parts stores that you can crimp into a piece of wire to make a jumper. If I hadn’t have had these extra, I normally just take a piece of wire and expose the copper on the end, then use a short piece of shrink tubing to give it a tube jacket so it does not touch any other pins. Then shrink the tube down a little so that the pin in the connector slips up into the shrink tube and contacts the exposed wire inside. The shrink tube holds it onto the pin as well if not shrunken down too much. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
Wow, this video helped me so much! Thank you for expressing in detailed fashion. Is there a way to test the Level Control or Controller? Again, truly appreciate it!
@paison318 thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. I’ve actually never had an issue with the level control sensor so I’m not sure how to test it. I would say it’s probably just a variable resistor (like the float in the gas tank that measures fuel level) so it might be possible to check the resistance with the sensor’s lever arm detached and then moved up and down…not 100% sure though.
Oof. So complicated. So many things I have to rule out. You mention the compressor not kicking on if the battery is low before turning the ignition on. My battery is a little weak and I think permanently damaged, still starts but goes dead if not driven for a while. Could the compressor issue be related to that if the compressor does not kick on even when the engine is on? Should I replace the battery before I go any further?
Hey man ! Once the motor is running, the alternator should be putting out at least 13 volts so that should be high enough to allow the compressor to kick on. If you put a multi-meter on the battery when it’s running and it’s not getting above 12 volts, then the alternator may be bad so it’s not properly charging the battery which would then keep the compressor from coming on. If it was me, I would connect the battery up to a trickle charger and leave it overnight to fully charge up battery…then with a fully charged battery, the compressor should come on with just the key turned on so you will be able to hear if the compressor cuts on (or hear if the big relay under the hood clicks or you can feel it click if you have someone turn the ignition on while holding the relay).
@@StevesDIYs thanks for the response. I left it sitting for a while, there was an old attachment causing battery drain, replaced battery, good voltage now. Does the compressor kick on every time you turn the key into on position no matter what? Is it not dependent on the amount of air that’s already in the shocks?
Hello, yep, for sure the relay could be jumped from the +12 volt pin to the pump pin to see if the pump runs when it’s still on the vehicle vs. bench testing it like I did 👍.
It's really really good thanks for your time and make that video
Thanks man and glad the video helped some with the issue diagnosing 👍. All the best ! Steve
Fantastic video sir!!!
Thanks man and glad the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve
Appreciate the fine detail of this video. Seriously from the bottom of my soul, thank you sir. Have an open circuit/short on my Escalade, this is going to help me a lot and make it a nice quick easy find. I studied your diagram made it easy to understand.
Been working on an Escalade for awhile as a project, has the VVT and the months I’ve been working on it i had the VVT on once and couldn’t believe the difference. It’s unreal. Started with 60 codes on the OBD2 and knocked most of them out with cleaning grounds, replaced quite a few parts, well alot, and now I’m here.
Codes C0711-00
Level Control Air Pressure Sensor Circuit
C0660-06
Level Control Exhaust Solenoid Valve Circuit - Low Voltage/Open
Last code to clear and i pray she’ll run the VVT. Night and day difference when it kicks on. Been working in it for 2 months, dozens and dozens of hours, chasing the VVT haha driven it maybe 1000 miles; only had the VVT on for 3-4 miles after cleaning a ground behind fuse box to the Body control module under brake pedal.
Thanks a million guy
Hey man ! Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. Yep, I do tend to get into the details a bit too much I think lol, but most times explaining the little details helps more than just a quick overview as it can be so many different things.
Sounds like you have done a ton of work to get yours back on the road again so hopefully you’ll get the last little things fixed and it will be good to go ! Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
nice job buddy very informative.
Thanks 👍. All the best ! Steve
Good video , I enjoyed this. The ALC stands for Automatic leveling Control . I don't think that was mentioned.
Thanks ! Yep, I never never looked up the meaning so that’s good to know 👍. All the best ! Steve
This is a very helpful video thank you! However, I'm confused on one thing. Where is the fuse in your diagram that is above the battery that goes to the suspension control? I've changed all 3 other fuses and the relay.
The issue I'm having is as follows ; I have 2 brand new compressors, one will turn on for the 'self test' with key on or startup, but will not run even when commanded by the tech 2 scanner, the other new compressor wont do anything at all. Both compressors do turn on with direct 12v power. I'm thinking I may have a bad suspension controller(level control module?).
Thank you!
Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. For the suspension controller fuse, I’m actually not sure where it is in the fuse box as it’s not listed anywhere…I suspect that it’s fuse also powers other electronics along with the suspension controller so they didn’t list it specifically.
It is odd that the compressor will do the initial startup, but then won’t go ahead and run to level the suspension…unless there’s an issue with the level sensor that is on the axle that is also preventing the scanner from enabling the compressor possibly.
Sorry I couldn’t be of much help, but if you get it figured out, comment back as I always like to learn what the issues turn out to be if someone encounters a new one. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Thank you for responding Steve. Bummer! I'll look for it(fuse). For clarification for me In your diagram, does level sensor refer to each corners height sensor(4 in total (the rod and ball joint that goes up and down with the body movement))?
@LordofChaos187 👍. Yes, for the rear ride height sensors, it looks like it uses the rear corner sensors to determine the height as there isn’t a separate one on the axle that I could find like what was on my Ford Expedition I had prior to the Escalade.
@@StevesDIYs I sort of figured it out. Ended up changing the level control module, and now it operate properly (new shocks, relay and compressor as well as those were bad). The tech2 scanner still wont activate the compressor, but maybe that is due to the compressor being aftermarket? I don't know, but it now functions properly otherwise (add weight to rear and it brings itself up to level etc).
Very much appreciate your video!
@LordofChaos187 Thanks and glad you got it figured out 👍. Yep, as long as mines lifting and leveling out, I’ll just call it good lol. I can not get several of the modules on my different cars and trucks to talk to the scanners or coding software so I’ve always assumed they had an done an update or I’m on the wrong software rev.
Thanks you very much for you help me
Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve
What are those clips called you made for jumper cables to test the compressor
Hello, the little wire jumpers I used were from an old harness connector I had laying around, but I believe they sell the small blade crimp ends at the auto parts stores that you can crimp into a piece of wire to make a jumper. If I hadn’t have had these extra, I normally just take a piece of wire and expose the copper on the end, then use a short piece of shrink tubing to give it a tube jacket so it does not touch any other pins. Then shrink the tube down a little so that the pin in the connector slips up into the shrink tube and contacts the exposed wire inside. The shrink tube holds it onto the pin as well if not shrunken down too much. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
Wow, this video helped me so much! Thank you for expressing in detailed fashion. Is there a way to test the Level Control or Controller?
Again, truly appreciate it!
@paison318 thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. I’ve actually never had an issue with the level control sensor so I’m not sure how to test it. I would say it’s probably just a variable resistor (like the float in the gas tank that measures fuel level) so it might be possible to check the resistance with the sensor’s lever arm detached and then moved up and down…not 100% sure though.
@@StevesDIYs good point. I may try that if possibly needed.
Oof. So complicated. So many things I have to rule out. You mention the compressor not kicking on if the battery is low before turning the ignition on. My battery is a little weak and I think permanently damaged, still starts but goes dead if not driven for a while. Could the compressor issue be related to that if the compressor does not kick on even when the engine is on? Should I replace the battery before I go any further?
Hey man ! Once the motor is running, the alternator should be putting out at least 13 volts so that should be high enough to allow the compressor to kick on. If you put a multi-meter on the battery when it’s running and it’s not getting above 12 volts, then the alternator may be bad so it’s not properly charging the battery which would then keep the compressor from coming on.
If it was me, I would connect the battery up to a trickle charger and leave it overnight to fully charge up battery…then with a fully charged battery, the compressor should come on with just the key turned on so you will be able to hear if the compressor cuts on (or hear if the big relay under the hood clicks or you can feel it click if you have someone turn the ignition on while holding the relay).
@@StevesDIYs thanks for the response. I left it sitting for a while, there was an old attachment causing battery drain, replaced battery, good voltage now. Does the compressor kick on every time you turn the key into on position no matter what? Is it not dependent on the amount of air that’s already in the shocks?
How about pull off the relay and touch pin 12v 30 to pin 87 going to the pump,that should do the same thing without removing it.
Hello, yep, for sure the relay could be jumped from the +12 volt pin to the pump pin to see if the pump runs when it’s still on the vehicle vs. bench testing it like I did 👍.
My Escalade 09 rides rough still all four oem corners new, it’s making me feel crazy.
Alright
Lol ! All the best ! Steve