SPORTSTER Camshaft Install HOW TO - In The Shop
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- In this video we do a Sportster camshaft install how to with a sweet little 2001 Sportster for a nice midrange power boost! This bike already has a 1200 conversion using some factory 2004 cylinders and a set of Wiseco 10-1 compression pistons cut for the stock 883 heads on the bike. I went through Hammer Performance for these parts due to their wealth of knowledge and solid advice on the project. Parts include a set of Andrews N2 bolt in cams with a set of S&S lifters using the stock pushrods. In the future we will upgrade the bike further with cylinder head porting, larger valves, new ignition, and more! Check the links below for all the info!
Final tuning settings:
Main Jet = 195
Pilot Jet = 48
Fuel screws = 3 turns out
Spark plugs = NGK4339 DCPR8E (went 2 heat ranges colder)
Retarded stock 883 ignition module
Hammer Performance:
hammerperf.com/
Andrews camshaft section (this bike is a 2001 so it uses the N2 option):
hammerperf.com/...
S&S Precision Lifters:
hammerperf.com/...
Hammer Performance install guide:
hammerperf.com/...
Hammer Performance RUclips Channel:
/ @hammerperformance
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#brickhousebuilds #sportstercams #sportster
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Being an auto mechanic my whole life this is the best damn how to cam video I have ever seen good work my friend I’m about to do it to my sportster and you just made it easy for me
Well thank you Richard! I. Glad it helped out!
Really great info and how to. My bike is set up exactly like that one except for the two into one pipe. I'm still using stock headers with the crossover pipe, with high flow mufflers. Mine is also an '01. Upgraded to 1200 a couple of years ago, with the Andrews N4 cams. These bikes pull really hard with this setup. And if anyone is curious, a bike with these mods will easily run off and leave a stock 103 Dyna up to 100mph. Not by a few bike lengths, but by a couple hundred feet or more.
Yea this thing really pulled when I was done. I just wish It had a dyna ignition to get even more!
Dude, you are akin to the top heart surgeon at UCLA who fixed my heart last year! Scary smart, and working in a realm I'd never have the balls to enter! Damn fine work, senior!!! :)
Haha I appreciate that! I have just always approached everything as "its just nuts and bolts" and usually get around well once I dig in. I feel I'm halfway decent at explaining things which is why I felt the desire to make videos on the stuff.
@@BrickHouseBuilds You're actually very good at explaining things, which makes it so much easier to understand. Great work, that's why I subscribed.
@@trevorjameson3213 thanks man I appreciate that! I've always found myself explaining things lol
Hello Brick.............I have a 1975 XR750 that the engine is being rebuild. Can you recommed a bearing manufacture and grade of bearing for my cam shafts? Thank you
Very cool bike! I am not a Harley expert so please check with maybe some Harley specific shops or businesses for that guidance
Nice one, I scrapped out original pushrods and tubes ( bolt cutters) and replaced with zippers collapsible tubes and s&s adjustable pushrods. Exact same build as yours on my 1200 xlc Andrew's A4 cams and s&s lifters.
Good helpful video.
Hammer recommends not using N4 with 883 heads. They told me if I want that same power band with no worries of valve to piston contact, to use reaper 505/515. If you want a wider power band with more low end to go with , stock W cams or N2 . Hope it helps great video 🤘
These cams were recommended by Hammer for this combo and future mods
@BrickHouseBuilds that's wierd . I just had a whole talk with him about it . Cause I already have the N4 installed and he told me to swap them out since I have the 883 heads still . I rolled over and all when I built . No binding . I have about 250 miles on it and I scoped down the plug hole and see no contact . But thanks to him it's got me nervous lol. Mine is 1275 with there pistons maybe that's why
Man im happy to hear you went hammer , thats the jug kit i want for my sporty .
They have such a wealth of info out there so I was happy to do so!
I’ve been working with Hammer now for about a month and a half on my built 883 to 1250 with head porting services also and every time I call them they call me back without failure one time I was waiting for a while and I didn’t have time to wait I hung up and I had to go and like 20 minutes later he called me that’s saying something right there they’re really good guys as busy as they are right now it’s February he told me this is their slam time of the year to he said he’ll stay unbelievably busy now till spring
Finding this video just saved my ass!!! Good looks!!
Glad it was helpful!
Love the video. That is a beautiful bike. Only change I would make is 5 spoke wheels.
Thank you, the bike had mags stock but the customer converted it to spokes.
Im gunna get you a grease pen for jobs like these. Takes the guesswork out. Good tutorial
i recently found out that Ultima makes a "High Volume Oil Pump" that will fit my pre-pin oiler... so the answer, for me, is " increase the big end sling " when camming pre-pin oiler sporties.
no problems 04 and on, the ones with pin oilers can pretty much handle anything you throw at them.
but i would definitely suggest a high volume oil pump when camming 03 and earlier model Sportsters..
👍
Hi man, thanks for sharing, my bike is 2010/48, since it's already 1200, do you think I need the S&S 1250 kit? Or just use the cam kit? Although I can get a compression boost with the 1250 kit, I don't like the high compression ratio that much, and I'm a little worried about losing too much low end with these cam kits, I would like to ask you to give me some advice, thanks.
I would think a cam swap would give you a nice power boost where you want it as well as you pair that with a good tune. Check out the options on Hammer Performance which I have linked. They have tons of info on the type of power you are after and what part of the rev range you want it in.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Okay, I'll keep browsing and ask you again if I have any new questions, have a nice day.
Hi,
Do I need to remove the lifters at all if I plan to leave the stock ones?
So basically remove the rockerbox and then the cam cover etc.?
You don't HAVE to but they will likely fall into the engine once you remove the cams. They are super easy to remove so keep track of where they go.
Hi, question for your, I currently have a 03 Sportster 1200 custom with high flow breather and Vance and Hines shorts. I want to install the Andrew N4 cams as I want to keep stock heads and don’t plan on upgrading heads or rods or anything else. My carb is set for with a 48 idle jet and a 185 main jet, with 3 shims and 1 3/4 turns on mixture screw. Was planning on only upgrading the main jet to a 190 or 195. Any suggestion on main jet and air mixture screw?
As each adjustment point changes a small portion of the rpm and throttle range you will just have to adjust one thing at a time until its right. Unless you have a dyno it will just be seat of the pants combined with plug chops for tuning
@@BrickHouseBuilds unfortunately I don’t have a dyno and not looking for crazy max power. I’ll do it the old school way like you and just ride it and see what needs to be updated. That’s how I tuned it when I installed exhaust and breather. Thanks can’t wait to install. And by far your video was the best explanation on how to install cams.
Just to be clear you have to check the tolerances of all 4 cams right? Also, did you have to put new gaskets on the heads & rocker covers?
Definitely check all 4 since you are there anyway. I did not put new rocker box gaskets on as they were newer cometic mls units from when I did the 1200 kit last year. I figured once we do the ported heads we will replace the top end gaskets again.
What size alan head/torx bit is used for the cam cover/rocker cover bolts? Doing mine this weekend!
Oh man, off the top of my head I have no idea. It's all SAE sized because Harley but I can't recall exactly which sizes.
Where do all the stock cams go? How do I identify them on the swap meet?
No idea on that one. Id hope that the seller would have the info listed.
Excellent instructions. Thank you very much.
Glad you found it helpful!
Not sure if you're still monitoring these comments, but I can't help think it's possible the pinion nut slipped the first time because of the Hammer Bronze oil pump gear you used? If the bronze gear is softer than the steel gear, then couldn't this lead the pinion nut to loosen as the bronze gear softened or possibly shrunk? I was going to put a bronze gear on at Hammer's recommendation, but logic is causing me to rethink this...
I never changed the oil pump gear
@@BrickHouseBuilds Yep...I confused your video with another: ruclips.net/video/YnFc0OwhniQ/видео.html - In that video, he said he used a brass oil pump gear. I assume he meant Bronze. At the 2-minute mark, he states he had trouble with the pinion gear coming loose and the cams losing timing, causing a valve strike. I think it might have been from the oil pump gear being too soft, causing the pinion nut to loosen up. What do you think? Possible?
It could have been incorrectly torqued. Bronze is not too soft for this type of thing and is very common.
What is the price range to have this done on the same bike year ad model 2008
Hey Max I appreciate it but I'm not taking on anymore customer work at this point.
Thanks for the great video! Very informative and well made.
Thank you David! I hope it helped for your project!
Sounds awesome! Cams sound much louder than stock. That's expected though since the tolerance is different than stock.
I have the same cams in my Sportster and yes, they are noisier but it's not that bad. The power gain is significant though, those cams come on pretty strong around 4k rpm and power continues to increase beyond red line.
To get the crankshaft are you at tdc at the rear cylinder? On my 1990 883 if i tdc the front the crank wont line up but if i go tdc at the rear the crank lines up
Yes the cam timing marks are for the rear cylinder at TDC
@@BrickHouseBuilds so i was doing it wrong? I was at tdc at the front cylinder 🤦🏻♂️
@@bee2333 you just said it lined up at the rear?
@@BrickHouseBuilds if i go tdc at the front the crank timing mark is pointing at 1oclock position and thats the front piston at irs highest point. If i back off to align the crank to where its supposed to be, the front piston is on its down stroke. But if i go tdc at the rear piston the crank timing mark is at its correct position. I cant find anything on my manual stating which cylinder i should base it off of
@@bee2333 The rear. I thought we just confirmed that. Double check the manual as it should be in there
Great Video Thank You. I’m getting ready to do my N4 cams in my 883 But I bought a 1250 kit from hammer performance and my heads are at hammer they are getting CC ported polished and a 6 angle valve job and some other stuff Dan at hammer said it’s going to really really wake this bike up
Did you really notice a big difference in torque going from stock cams to the N4cam if so we’re in the RPM range did you feel it pull hard
Thanks David, this definitely had an increase in the midrange grunt by the butt dyno. A better ignition plate would help take full advantage but regardless this was absolutely noticeable for me and the customer.
@@BrickHouseBuilds yeah whenever you buy a HAMMER Kit you are supposed to buy a whole new ignition system they want the timing to come in much slower because you’re putting a 3 9/16 pistol over top of a 3 inch cylinder head it causes the combustion burn much much faster and hotter. They sold me one of those Dyna 2000i programmable ignitions they want the ignition curve to come in much slower and you have to retard the timing 3°so they told me to put it on setting 4 .Dan was telling me that a lot of people try and just retard the timing with there stock ignition plate but he said HARLEYS ignition comes in way too fast and you can and people do burn pistons.if you don’t get the ignition hammer tells you to get hammer sells it with every kit some people try to just back there timing out with the timing plate
@@davidlephew2779 Different HD ignition modules have different ramp rates so yea its best to upgrade when you can so you are exact. In this case my customer has a certain budget to work within for this moment but it will be upgraded in the future
@@BrickHouseBuilds what cams did you put in there was Andrews N4 or Andrews N2
@@BrickHouseBuilds as much as ignition modules cost your customers did a 1200 cc conversion didn’t he I don’t know if he is in as much of a risk of burning a piston as you would if you went up to a 1250 or 1275. I would save his money and go with the (Impact head porting service) it would let those cams breathe a lot more. Aaron over at Hammer he was the one who talked me into doing the head porting he told me that Stock Harley 883 heads on the flow bench can barely flow enough air for their stock W cam‘s which I had the horrible D cams. hammer even agreed get them out while I got all this torn down. Even if I didn’t do the head porting put like W cams in but when he told me if I went with the head work and those AndrewsN4 I would be repaid with at least a additional 20 hp and just as much more torque on top off the 883 to 1250 conversion. Fingers crossed 100 to 105 Hp Hoping at least 90 torque
Also you want to slather those cams with assembly lube as well . More lube is never a bad thing.
When I do I typically get a comment saying I use too much lol. Cant win
Dang!! What area of the country are you in? I need you to get my 1200 sporty running tip top like this!!
Thanks Jason! Im located near St. Louis
I just saw that you have the stock carb on yours I have the mikuni but I’m starting to hate the low gas mileage and the thinking noise coming from it.you like the stock carb?
Well the customer doesn't ride it daily so I know he isn't concerned about the fuel mileage so much. As far as the noise im assuming you are hearing the induction noise or slide moving. I'm not sure you would ever not hear that as long as you have an open element type filter. That's why cars have gigantic air intake tubes and such.
Brick House Builds thanks man I have the stock carb I’m gonna put it on and ride a couple days see the difference
@@midlifemtbr1985 It could also be over-jetted causing the poor fuel consumption. No harm in at least trying the original.
Brick House Builds ya I’m gonna put heat wrap on the exhaust too today it’s freaknin cooking my legs
Brick House Builds well I put the stock carb back on and it feels surprisingly better all around and I can’t really tell the difference performance wise, there is was vibration and no more noise, yay!!
100 comments so this may have been mentioned already.... but due to your crank nut being JUST in the way. if you get the crank gear holding tool (bolts on where the cam cover would bolt on) you can loosen or remove the nut entirely. set your cams, perfect, then reinstall the nut. of course the nut is loctited so there may be some heat or cussing involved
Would have helped for sure. Luckily I was only doing this job once
Did you put bigger jet's in the carb, Great video!
Yea I explain all of that in the end of the video. Thank you
Thanks
How do you know that crank is on it’s proper rotation/correct stroke? Dots alone can’t tell you that your on the spark stroke/compression stroke. Or wat ever stroke your supposed to be on. No vids show wat to do it you tear a moter apart and rotate crank few times by accident then how do you have it on right rotation so cams wrk with correct spark/compression stroke?????? Real help pls
Once you set the crankshaft to the correct position of desired TDC(top dead center) the cams will then determine what stroke its on. Cams rotate at half the speed of the crank and there for the same TDC will be the compression stroke and then the exhaust stroke.
@@BrickHouseBuilds but don’t I have to keep in mind ignition.
@@BrickHouseBuilds like I align cam marks but could I be on the wrong rotation still. Just before I install heads an such I’m stumped.
@@BrickHouseBuilds ok so I line up cam marks and if I rotate 360 all marks will line up or only every720 they line up. Just about to install entire top end just need to get past this thought before I put anything together. Maybe I’m wrong but if I line marks up and rotate one turn till crank and #2 cam line up again the other 3 cams won’t line up right. Only every 720degrees all cam marks line up again witch would mean that I need to start all of this on the correct rotation right? Thank you for any help
@@acurarl9929 I think you are waaaayy over complicating this premis. Cams rotate 1/2 the speed of the crank. Crank rotates 360 degrees meaning cams have only gone 180*. Crank goes 720 degrees to have the cams go 360...half the speed. 720 degrees of crankshaft rotation is 4 180 degree "cycles" = that's why its called a "4 cycle" or "4 stroke" Physically look at your cams, they all have the same number of teeth meaning they spin at the same rate. #2 cam has a second gear thats driven by the crank. That particular cam gear has 2x the teeth of the crank meaning it rotates at half the speed.
Install the cams as show with the marks lining up and you will be good.
Another dope video man!!
When did you start working on and customizing motorcycles?!!
I've always been riding bikes but didn't start really tinkering with them until 2012 ish when I bought a Sportster that I made some changes on. After that I had a gap in time before my buddy learned about cafe racers and picked up a GS550 that we modified and I was hooked. A year later (2015 ish) and I was starting to do it for other people.
@@BrickHouseBuilds thank you for replying, it was very informative.
H-D Installed Pin Oilers, ( "oil sqirters" ) When They Went To The W Cam .... All The Aftermarket Cam Girders Need To Reconsider Their Profiles Ground For Pre-Pin Oiler Sportsters.
28:17 - A weirdest effect on the front wheel, it became twiggling like, on its own!
The 195 jet work well?
Yes it did. Its a common jet for that type of combo. I did a lot of pulls and throttle chops reading the spark plugs and was comfortable where I left the bike.
Brick House Builds I just did the same on my 04 put hammer 570 cams, mikuni hs42 carb, and thundrheader exhaust, and I didn’t know how much I should go up on the jet size I have a 175 in now and it felt lean
@@midlifemtbr1985 every bike is different so part of the tuning process is testing and making the necessary adjustments. I always try to keep the bikes safe with how I work into doing pulls as you see in this video with creeping up on it. I had to try 3 different mains on this one, more than a few ignition advance positions, a few fuel mixture screw changes, 3 different spark plug heat range changes and idle screw tweaks before it was right. All of that is normal though. That GS450 I have videos on took like a hundred tweaks/changes to get dialed
Brick House Builds ya I order a bunch of jets but now got to wait for them
@@midlifemtbr1985 I always just go to my local shops. Your harley dealer will have jets on hand along with most competent shops.
Dude please tell me your not installing these cams DRY because that drop you so greedily spared was NOT enough bro. It's ok to use Harley performance assembly lube that way your assured these cams are properly lubed.
Well I also forgot the Harley brand oil, Harley chrome oil filter, Harley spark plugs etc. The edit may have showed minimal prelube but I would have used much more oil. I did not use assembly lube. Also consider the bronze bushings are already impregnated with oil and not new. I have to keep edits as short as possible so there may be more you don't see. Please do the job and make a better video.
Those bolts will never come out now lol
Its a Harley, every bolt needs locktite and typically has a thread lock on everything from the factory. My work doesn't rattle loose lol
@@BrickHouseBuilds no shit yeah that guy needs to know because I had an actual Harley mechanic who quit working for Harley decided to open his own business and got lazy and can you use Loctite all you use is the blue anyway it will come loose and even if it doesn’t heat will make it come loose he rebuilt my top in the three 7/16 rocker box bolts when I went to put on my Hammer performance 1250 I dodged the bullet because if I didn’t buy the kit I probably would’ve bought a motor because two of those bolts were hanging on by just one thread one more start up and it probably would’ve ended up hanging a valve open piston would’ve came up smacked a valve and bent the crankshaft rods. Aaron at Hammer said he can almost guarantee I’d be looking at a new head and a new crankshaft at the least he said he has seen that happen just one bolt get loose in the drivetrain and he said it causes carnage
Oh boy that doesnt sound right!!!! Maybe it goes away by its own its a self learning machine, Then at 30:09 i better shut off this thing its a freaking bomb countdown!!!
The lifters hadn't pressurized with oil. About 30 seconds later in the video it was fine
@@BrickHouseBuilds you can bench prime the lifters before the 1st use!
@@BarbaritoAdolfo777 I had them soaking a long time and have always had good luck. This was just a hesitant lifter in this instance. Its fine
@@BrickHouseBuilds i always prime them no matter if new or old,some xane from factory with a gooey assembly lube wich cause some clogging,i dumped them in gas or any solvent for a few minutes to get rid of any grease and then soak and bench prime.
Tedious but never fails