Climbing the Verdon - Yosemite of France
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- Опубликовано: 30 мар 2022
- We set out to climb at one of the most beautiful and intimidating international destinations - The Verdon Gorge in France. We only had a day and a half in the Verdon and had weather and other factors working against us. Nonetheless, we pushed on and had an incredible outing. We climbed Sucepe which is a classic 6b+ in the heart of the Verdon.
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reminds me of stories my great great uncle used to tell me of being in the Verdun in 1917, he didn't seem to have as much fun as you all did
VerdUN is in the North of France and the site of a major battle, the longest-lasting of WWI (302 days and 1,250 million casualties) and VerdON is a deep canyon in the South of France.
Nice video, but that in your pot is everything but no carbonara dude ;)
lol how about an American in a little town in France's take on carbonara?
@@TheGravityLab I'm not Italian so I can't blame you. But don't show it to an Italian, they will gesture you off the cliff while saying "Mario, have you seen what he calls carbonara, mama mia" in an Italian accent
@@johannessporer hahaha
This brings back happy memories! Back in 1982 France had just started their Sports Climbing Association and decided to celebrate by inviting climbers from all around the world to join them for two weeks of climbing in the best spots in France, of which a full week was spent in Verdon.
I was selected as one of two Norwegian climbers, we had a blast. We would rappel with double ropes and climb back up on routes up to 7a which was sufficient for us at that point in time, even though Wolfgang Güllich, Patrick Edlinger etc were doing far harder stuff.
I did take a half-day rest at one point and ran down the path at the bottom of the gorge, really beautiful!
Woah, thank you for the history lesson and story! Which routes did you climb?
@@TheGravityLab That is going to be hard to figure out now! I did not take any notes but a bunch of Kodachrome slides, and I do remember the approaches to a couple of the climbs (35-40 m free rappels that ended up 3-5 m away from the wall, so the secret was to kick hard before losing contact with the rock and keep the swing going enough to reach the next belay point).
I also remember approximately where that 7a was located on an outside bulge. The way I remember it we had long stretches of what looked like blank, slightly dimpled surfaces, but then we would feel around and a few of those dimples were really pockets that would take 1, 2 or even 3 fingers. :-)
@@TerjeMathisen wow, sounds incredible. We certainly need to go back for more.
The first pitch looks insanely similar to south texas limestone crags like greenbelt and reimers ranch! Really cool to see that style all the way across the pond
About 30 years ago me and 2 buddies did Arete du Belvedere. It's a mixed route graded VS with maximum 5c. Lovely experience, great rock. Make sure you take enough water with you, we did it in the height of the summer and it gets proper hot down in the gorge.
Had so much fun in the Verdon! Great job with the vid!
😬👹🤓
I hike that gorge, cycle those roads but the climbing is way out my league. Wonderful to see such a raw look into what it’s like to climb there. Great job on the video
Thanks a lot. It is an absolutely beautiful landscape worthy of much adoration.
at the gorge mouth there are easyer climbs
Thanks. Enjoyed the adventure.
Grazie! Cheers!
I was in Verdon in 2008 in a climbing trip in Provance (Beux and Verdon). The place is a paradise for climbers but it can easily turn to a nightmare. It's quite easy to go for a 6b or a 6c+ 300 meters route make a few rappels and then go right make another 3 rappels and go left walk for ten minutes right and if you are lucky you are going to find your route. If you don't you may messed up with a 7c+ route and you've had it. That's why there are so many climber guides in the local camping. Pay for your life man.....
I saw the leader moving couple of times the draw, from the first bolt after belay station to the second, already clipped in the rope. My guess it was bcs you wanted to move fast, so linking pitches and for that you wanted to save draws to have enough for two pitches at once. anyway only you know the reasons that can justify your decisions, and i am no one to say anything. it is just concerning that if unexpectedly you fall before clipping the second bolt, it will be an unnecessary larger fall with a factor2, so it might be wise to clip first with another draw in the second bolt, and then unclip and take with you the draw in the first bolt. cheers
Great job guys, that rock is beautiful
Thank you sir!
Generally speaking I never really sought out a rock climbing tuber. However you were recommended on my feed , so I watched and your cool calm collected tone really made this video a blast to watch. Makes me want to go out and climb haha! Deff all about supporting growing channels and you really earned my sub! Keep up the great work man and looking forward to seeing more! Extreme Tubers are the best Tubers!
Hello! Your video inspired me to plan a visit to verdon later this year. (Well I a french and it was on my bucket list anyway so let’s go!)
I have a technical question, what lenght of rope is required for abseiling? Is 2x50m enough?
Thanks for the nice content! 🙏
ha yes Verdon ^^ very nice place, greeting from France...
bonjour!
@@TheGravityLab did you camp nearest "la palud sur verdon" or other place ?
Cool climbing vid, I need to make my way down there! As a Euro I do have to deduct style points for not using double ropes ;)
Yes you must check it out.
Damn I was waiting for the first person to mention that ha.
Bro you can't call that pasta carbonara ahahaha. Anyway, nice video!
Hahaha turns out I am a misinformed chef.
I haven't done Sucepe, but you did well to only take draws and pick a route that isn't more traditionally bolted; perhaps you had beta? Verdon bolting on many routes is well spaced, 5 to 10m is common, and carrying a small rack is normal for most parties. Newer routes tend to be better bolted, and it's been a while since I was there (15 years?), so perhaps the gaps got filled.
this is a dream of mine man, one day I will go there too.
Cool video, somethin I planned aswell this year. So it looks like a very oldshool route with not so many bolts right? Seems like phsically very challenging
Yes very old school, but mostly bolted where you need them. Just watch out for p1 as it is a little hard to read and spicy. Definitely worth getting on. Let me know how it goes!
@@TheGravityLab nice! Well yeah I might pick up an easier one first to get used to it haha I guess you definitfly don't wanna get stuck in there
Thanks I will
What shoes u wearing dude? Looks like lovely rock, thanks for sharing
wearing Katana Lace ups, which were helpful on the sometimes sharp rock.
Looks cool! Not sure I'll ever get there, but at least now I know a tad bit more.
Oh, and for the love of doG, please hardpoint yourself before calling "Off-Belay!" That way you'll be more likely to keep climbing well past my age.
Yeah it is an incredible landscape.
& you got it! Sometimes I get a bit excited.
Being that their confidence levels were so dissonant, I hypothesize there was a lot of tense, behind the scenes conversation about whether or not to actually hit that area on their given trip. I admire the woman for actually speaking her mind about it instead of just pretending “everything was good” on camera.
Thank you and actually no tension behind the scenes 😊 We really trust each other and made a plan as to what we would do if our rope was not long enough for the rappels. Very confident for the climbing, less confident in the approach but all turned out well. The raps were not as long as the descriptions stated on Mountain Project.
Yup, couldn’t agree more!
Bruhhhh no stopper knots on that rappel :( makes me very sad
Britney is a mountain cat!
Way to go B!
Thanks Jerry!
What length rope did you guys take? Heading to Verdon soon and cant be bothered taking 2 ropes when not needed!
I’m interested in this too! Did you go or get an answer? Last time I was there was in 1990, climbing on twin 50m ropes, but if I go again I’d prefer to take a single. Question is, do I need to take a tag line to lengthen the abseil?
Nice route, gotta keep that one in mind. But why just one day? Verdon is the place for long, hard multipitches ;)
You are totally right. Poor planning. We should have spent a month instead of a day! Have you been?
@@TheGravityLab yes, more than ten years ago, but I wasn't climbing back than, just hiking and doing a roadtrip to southern france
Tethered simul raping... I’ve never seen that, seems dope! You can’t get to far a way from each other.
Exactly, it’s a good way to add a bit more safety while still keeping the rappels moving quickly.
keep in mind to tie to eachother. Otherwise this can end pretty bad
@@tiamat87 Exactly. Nobody needs what happened to Brad Gobright.
@@DrewNorthup or just don’t simurap. Stopper knots
2:48 ma non é una carbonara 😂
Sweet !!! What’s the name of the route ????
Sucèpe!
@@boundforeverywhere thx !!!!!
Dude great climbing and great vlogs, but u gotta clip the bolts from the flat side! Just saying! They can unclip if u dont i promise! Stay safe and make loads more cool vids!
Cheers John! Can you expand more on the thought of clipping them from the flat side?
Awesome video great climbing, but please don't do that with the first quick draw my heart skipped a beat every time.
All good and nice, but that was not a Carbonara
Spostare il primo rinvio al quarto tiro non la vedo una cosa intelligente
Americans and dryers tho 😂
I think you got scammed. Who told you that is carbonara?
The damn Italian restaurants in Ohio. Haha
man, to move the draw, from the first bolt after the belay station to the second bolt is completely unnecessary and in some cases deadly. it doesn't make any sense. and to be secured before saying "off belay" would also be nice. I enjoyed the video though. really did.
Wonderful rock, love that kind of climbing. The runouts are terrifying though.
ruclips.net/video/N1LvsyNLOHo/видео.html
Might be my paranoia, but I wouldn't scream "off belay", until I'm properly anchored.
surely a great video but the 1000 "like" make the video unwatchable. enjoy climbing everyone.
Nice route but the guide in me cringes at the crazy amount of very unsafe climbing done in this video. Please seek out a guide and get some more general knowledge of how to do this sport safely. I don't say this to try and put you down. I want you two to be able to continue to climb amazing climbs around the world.
Appreciate the feedback Mattie. What makes you concerned?
@@TheGravityLab , I appreciate you didn't take offense, at least right away. :-) I hesitate leaving comments like I did on a public forum because I don't think it is the right place for it, but a lot of people will view your video, hopefully some of whom might take up climbing, and I want them to be as safe as possible. I was an AMGA certified guide for many many years and spent many years certifying other guides. Stopped guiding a few years ago to focus my and my families endeavors. My focus was and will always be on stacking the odds in your favor with every single thing you do when it comes to climbing. My first concern came with your simultaneous rappel. When all is known it can work, but is is never ever the safest way to do things and only adds potential issues. If one of you were to get hurt it is very difficult and time consuming to get out of your rappel and set up a system to try and rescue the other person. It also puts more pressure on an anchor and all your equipment. You and your partner mentioned some concern with the length of the rappel in the video, so at a minimum there were significant unknowns which is a red flag that should have steered you away from this. More accidents happen during rappelling than climbing so I always stress stacking the odds in your favor there. Rappel with an appropriate device (not a fan of using a Gri-Gri for it) and use a prussic or similar device as a backup. It only takes seconds longer and could save your life if something unforeseen were to happen. Second: Removing a quickdraw to move it up to a higher bolt is never a wise move unless you suddenly realize that you are short on equipment. If it must be done, do it as far away from the belay as possible as more rope will be out and the potential negative effects will be lessened by the increased dynamics of system. The first time was not as bad because it was your first pitch (I assume), but in Verdon the first pitch is often very high up above the actual flat ground, so it should be treated like a multi-pitch belay station. The second time you did it was very dangerous. You always want to get protection in above a belay station as soon as possible. On a traditional route I always stressed to get several pieces in close to your belayer. As you move farther away you can start to stretch protection out if you feel comfortable with the climbing. This is harder to control on a bolted route, but you want to make sure the lower bolts are always clipped. Falling directly on your belayer or the belay anchor creates a huge amount of stress on the system because there is so little rope and other dynamic properties in the system at that point. Also, simply landing on your belayer during a fall greatly increases the chances of you not only hurting yourself, but also your belayer. Also makes it much harder for your belayer to exit the system if they need to help you in case you are severely injured during a fall. It is still not really safe or ideal to do it farther out, but it does get much safer for many reasons (more dynamics, less chance of decking or hitting your belayer, more pieces in the system to less the chance of more serious issues, etc...). There were a few smaller things: some of your foot placements in relation to the rope and the bolt while clipping as that route did go back and forth quite a bit, a short quickdraw placed over the edge of the rock, when in other parts of the video I see you had several longer quickdraws that you used in other places, carabiners clipped directly into other carabiners. Again, hope this helps and does not offend. I've had to rescue climbers in the past, and unfortunately have been called upon to pull two bodies off a wall, each case could have been avoided had better safety protocols been followed. Hope this helps and Happy Climbing!
Yosemite is granite. Very diferent climbing. Sorry
Haha yes I know Yosemite is granite. Just the only comparison I have ever heard
what a amatours hahaha alain robert climbed that without any gear much better and faster hahah amatours
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