Oil & Filter Change: Ninja 1000 / Z1000SX / Z1000
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- In this video, I'll show you how to change the oil and oil filter on a 2018 Ninja 1000 / Z1000SX. It is not necessary to remove any fairings. The process should work for earlier model year Ninja 1000 and Z1000SX, and should be basically the same for the Kawasaki Z1000 and Versys 1000.
Products used:
Oil Filter: K&N 303
Oil: 4 qt Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 
Авто/Мото
![KAWASAKI Z1000 [2010] OIL AND OILFILTER CHANGE / DO-IT-YOURSELF With HINTS & TIPS. 👨🔧---🏍](/img/1.gif)
I've never heard of "burping" the filter. But to avoid this issue all together I've always filled the filter halfway with oil and let it sit for about 10 seconds (so the oil absorbs into the filter). Then I just screw the filter on. It sounds like it would be a big mess, but cold oil in the new filter doesn't move that quickly. You can actually screw it in at a leisurely rate without any drips. The main key is let it sit for a couple second upside down before you install. You'd be surprised how much oil a new filter absorbs.
Anyway thanks for all your videos they are really clear and concise. I appreciate the effort that goes into making them
Fyi. A little tip that works great for me when the oil pressure light doesn't turn off. No need to burp the filter. Just unscrew the oil fill plug and screw it back in quickly while the motor is running. The light turns right off. It has worked every time for me.
Thanks for the tip! I’ve done a few oil changes now, and still haven’t had the need to burp or do anything special.
Once again with all the details Gr8 video,
I have done 660km on my ninja 1000 but haven’t done oil change so far as I don’t want to Void 2yers warranty on it . Another 350km to go for the first service. Can’t wait to finish engine break in time @ 1000km.
I got to change the oil of my bike for the first time after wacting this video. I was a bit afraid until the red oil light went off after I turned the bike on, haha. Thanks a lot man!
Great vid - thank you! Two tips: put some oil in the new filter, and flip the bottle the other way when you pour the oil (you've got it upside down).
Enjoyed the video and learnt how to do my first oil change on ninja 1000...(subscribed) thanks!
Awesome! Congrats on the first oil change!
gracias por el video me gustaria saber como se sabe que filtro comprar especifico para nuestra moto y donde comprar el deposito de retirada de aceite muchas gracias un cordial saludo desde Madrid, España
Should always prime new filter with oil. You'd be surprised how much it will take. It means the oil will circulate quicker on first startup.
Thank you for this useful video.
I really love you video so easy to understand
Thanks again Jonathan for this video. It is my go to video when the season ends and I do my oil change. Safe riding!
Awesome
As I've noticed a few people saying, do not "burp" a filter, instead prime a filter, pour oil into the filter prior to fitting leave to let the oil soak into the filter and top up a bit more if needed then fit and fill the oil reservoir
Thanks
Good video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Front and rear axles should also be level too. This also effects the sight glass. With just the rear raise you might overfill.
Hello...I've done an oil change all good thankyou but....I've put just under 4 litres In and its a little low on the glass..is that normal..how
much oil did yours take..the full 4 litres? More? Less ? Thankyou
Just purchased a new Ninja 1000 (Z1000SX here in the UK) - dealer said that the engine contains mineral oil up until the first service (600 miles) and then is refilled with mineral oil until the next service at 4000 miles. Only after that is fully synthetic oil used or preferably semi-synthetic. Apparently these engines need the friction mineral oil allows to reach full break in potential regarding smoothness and power. Putting synthetic oil in below 4000 miles means the engine never runs in properly.
Hi Jonathan! Thanks for all your videos, really helpful!
Will you make a tutorial for spark plugs?
Thanks man
Nice video. Any reason why you did not prime the filter?
Hello, good afternoon, I would like to know if the filter of the K&N kn303 motorcycle that you have mounted on the motorcycle has given you some kind of problem since I am evaluating putting it on since when it comes to removing it it is much easier due to the finish of the filter in Hex key shape than the original Kawasaki filter for inna Z1000SX. Regards ✌️
Jonathan i have a tekton 16 inch pliers to remove the oil filter it works ? I just bought it and i thought it would be too big to fit the filter
Can you please give the dimensions of the rear stand (Length x Width x Height) ? Thanks
Hey John !
Hope you are ok!
Still think you should make and help us up with a video of air filtre and sparks plugs
What do you think?
Cheers
thanks for letting us know how to fix our own motorcycle.
I would like to know how to fix the odometer when it does not work.
Hi Jonathan, do you know how much oil you used exactly? I don't have a paddock so I'll be doing it on the side stand alone so I can't really see the glass on the side
Just changed oil and filter in my 2019 Kawasaki and looks like I have air trapped in the system 😭 will try to get the air out tomorrow. Any tips???
Cool, I've got the same bike , same color too. Just got it and made my first 200 kms ride friday. Thank for all yours update on the bike. Did you do a review on the L and Hight power mode yet?
Luc Beliveau Sure can... Low is 100bhp and full is 142bhp... end of review.
Nice to see no fairing removal required. Does the service manual say to have bike level? We"ve always changed oil on sidestands, then we'll rock bike back and forth to get as much old oil out as possible.
The bike can be on the side stand when draining the oil, but must be vertical when checking the oil level. This is confirmed in the service manual.
do you have a video in changing the coolant of the bike??
Does the bike temperature get to 200F is that normal when riding. i am a beginner so i not sure what normal or not but i would like to change the coolant of the bike. please make a video for that.
Thats very normal. Temps can go upto 224F. Fan starts running around 210F
Hey man great instructions. I'm currently looking at installing a translogic QS, any chance you will do a tank removal? :D You seem to be a lot better at this type of stuff than me, so i'd rather watch someone else before i try it on my own lol
I plan on doing videos for all the service I do in the bike, but a lot of that stuff won’t happen for a while because it’s a new bike. I should be able to do a tank removal video pretty quickly, though.
How many oil capacity in liters needed
I have a 2015 kawa Z1000 and 2015 Ninja 1000. Both Green, your Silver 2018 model is very nice. I replaced the stock exhaust with Vance Hines slip ons with baffles , sounds pretty sweet on both and didn't need to tune them.
At 4000 miles I replaced the dealership oil (2nd change) with the same oil you have, Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and K&N 303 filters,
but then removed the Mobil oil after 3 days since -clutch seemed stiffer and researched Mobil since only has API rating of SH the lower type oil per my 2015 Kawa Owner Manual.
Per google, API rating of SH is considered obsolete "CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1996. May not provide adequate protection against build-up of engine sludge, oxidation, or wear."
Switched to Kawa 4 stroke 10w-40 synthetic with current JasoMa rating and API of "SL" which is not considered obsolete. Switched out the K&N filters back to Kawa oil filters too even though Kawa filters now made in china vs. Japan. Per google, API denotes "SL" rating: Current For 2004 and older automotive engines.
Both bikes now shift smoother and run cooler per my stock temp gauges.
I believe at 11K miles, might switch to Amsoil Motorcycle Metric 10-w40 which has API rating of "SM", which appears as even better more current oil and still good for our clutches.
2015 Kawa Z1000ABS /Ninja 1000 ABS Owners manual: Engine Oil: Type API SG, SH, SJ, SL, or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2
Viscosity SAE 10W-40
Ride safely and enjoy. Enjoy your videos.
Can you link to where you finding your information regarding the Mobil 1 oil? The data sheet on their website (current as of February 2019) shows that it meets API SN (the latest API standard), and JASO MA2 (the latest JASO standard). Based on that, I don’t think there’s anything about Mobil 1’s specifications that would suggest it would be anything other than a top performing oil. But if something else is working better for you, then certainly stick with that. Thanks for sharing your findings!
cathy & eric C For anyone wondering: This product meets or exceeds the requirements of:
API SN
JASO MA2
JASO MA
www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-racing-4t-10w-40
Hi Johnathan,
Did you have to remove the Fairings to do this?
Great set of video clips btw.
Cheers
Steve🏴
Hi Justin, which tank protector is that?
👍👌
Where are you getting torque specs. Also did you take it in for the 500 mile break in maintenance or did you do everything yourself?
Some torque specs are available in the owners manual, and a comprehensive list is available in the factory service manual. I did the 600 mile service myself.
Hi Jonathan, greetings from Sydney Australia. I've really enjoyed all your videos on the Ninja 1000, they've inspired me to get one too. I test rode the bike yesterday and the heat on my right shin (I wear boots that come half way up my shins) was unbearable. It was the only thing I didn't really like about the bike. The dealer told me that once it has its first oil change at 1000 km they use a thinner oil that will fix the problem.Im not sure if I believe the stealer. I've seen on other reviews that reviewers think it's the catalytic converter causing the problem. Your thoughts on this matter would be appreciated. Cheers!
Hey, glad to hear you’re enjoying the videos! I do notice heat around my feet/shins. An oil change won’t change that. I don’t think it’s the catalytic converter, since any air flow would blow the heat past your feet. I think it’s the engine/radiator heat that is exiting the fairings. It doesn’t bother me, though. I don’t really notice it unless it’s very hot out. In those cases, I just angle my feet and legs outward and let the cool air blow over them.
Sam I am; Yes, the heat is definitely there and always will be. Here in central Texas we have 100+ degrees these days (37 + Celsius) and the heat is disturbing at traffic lights. Then again, I am not wearing boots, just running shoes. I am switching to Sidi Mag-1 Air Boots which provide a proper shield for the side facing the engine; those I very highly recommend. They run between $440 to $495 here in the US. Truth be told, this is an amazing bike I really love it and you will too!
Gloves please!
HI JONATHAN REGARDS FROM PAKISTAN, I HAVE 2 QUESTIONS, 1..I USE LIQUI MOLI 10 W 40 IS IT OK AND WHAT MAXIMUM KM SHOULD U USE THE OIL I MEAN LONG CAN U GO ON SINGLE OIL CHANGE. PLS REPLY THANKS
Is the Liqui Moly that you’re using designed for motorcycles? If so, it should be fine. Liqui Moly also makes a regular motor oil, which you should not use. Standard motor oil has friction reducers that are not good for the wet clutch in a motorcycle. Motorcycle specific oil is designed to work with the wet clutch. Kawasaki recommends changing the oil at 1000km, 12,000km, and then every 12,000km after that.
@@JonLong THANKS A LOT MATE,, BUT HERE THE MECHANICS AND THE PEOPLE HO SELL THE OIL TELLS US THAT U SHOULD CHANGE EVERY 2000 KM IS THAT RIGHT
My owner’s manual says every 12,000km. You should check your owner’s manual (you can get them online from Kawasaki website) to see what is required for your bike.
have you ever had to burp the bike?
Will you be doing the air filter at some point Jonathan
Yup!
Hey man i put 3.8 quart as the manual says and my level in the window seems overfilled abit. (1/8 inch over top) why?
are you filling on the kickstand or on fork and swingarm stands?
if youre on the kickstand it will effect how the oil level looks in the check window.
@@cptkirkpyro5656 on both
Both on swing arm and front fork stand
@@touna911 should be good then. youve already started the engine and let the oil filter fill up?
@@cptkirkpyro5656 yeah everything has been done as the manual said i drained up a bit of oil everything is fine now next time ill put 3.5L to be sure
Can you show 2013 Ninja rather than 2018 Ninja
Hi Jonathan,
I need to see the steps to change the air filter and gas filter.
Also I need to understand why when we change the tires the ktrc stars to blink on the dash? Crazy ah
Is it the same with a 2017 z1000?? 4 qt still?
Yup! The 2017-2019 models are the exact same.
Can you please do a brake pad removal video
Sure, I will do that at some point in the future. Good suggestion!
Is this the same on the 17 model??
Yep, exactly the same
@@JonLong excellent!!👍😀
Be carefull cuz the bolt of the k&n filter usually blow up.
I like when they blow up. The explosion gets oil on my chain and then I don’t have to lube it for a while.
Jonathan Long or u lose control and crash.
To everyone, don't use these K&N filters with the nut on the end. The welds break fail and then you end up with hot oil all over your rear wheel and you end up sliding down the road into the path of an oncoming vehicle.
K&N had a recall on these a few years ago for Triumphs. They refused to compensate me for the two I had bought for my Hondas stating they were not recalled. I didn't want to find out if they were any good so I have never used them. I have now returned to OE or HiFlo filters.
So you’re saying you bought two that weren’t recalled, and which you never used, but you claim that they are all defective and will fail. I’m familiar with K&Ns recall quite a long time ago. It was a limited problem that was quickly fixed. They wouldn’t still be around if their filters were failing.
@@JonLong Failing more frequently than K&N would like you to know. I need to explain further. There was quite a lot on the Triumph owners forum probably 5-6 years ago about these K&N filters leaking oil from the welding of the nut going onto the rear tyre. I had a Sprint 1050 and had fitted this type of K&N at the start of the season which was potentially one of the defective ones. I changed it back straight away to HiFlo as soon as I read about it. I got a couple of month's of use out of the K&N filter though before I changed it. I have a couple of other bikes Hondas that I'd bought these type of K&N filters for, code 303 rings a bell. Anyway, I didn't ever use them, they are still in their boxes in my garage as I changed them for HiFlo filters instead. I emailed the company I bought them from and K&N to get a refund, but I got nowhere as K&N said they weren't at that point part of a defective batch. They refused to refund me. Anyway rather than risk it and take their word for it I got replacement HiFlo oil filters without a nut on the end. The £12 I spent on the K&N was down the drain, but at least I have my life. I've never ever had a problem getting an oil filter off or indeed on without a nut welded on the end so this style of K&N filter seems to create far greater problems than it solves. You get idiots that tighten the oil filter using the nut!!!!!! On reflection the nut welded on the end seems to be asking for trouble. You only need the seal to be compromised for what ever reason, for it to leak and you have oil on your rear tyre and brake which could be catastrophic. I shall never ever use this type again. It's just my experience. I try to share with you for all bikers' safety. You don't need a filter with a nut on the end.
2013
Ok,pero prefiero Motul 7100 y filtro original Kawasaki
Not the 2018
At least you don't have to take off the fairing that's nice