Prototyping a Full Bionic Finger - Biomimetic Mechatronic Hand Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Here's my first test of three consecutive joints in my bionic hand, using FDM printing and arduino, designed in Fusion 360.
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Contact: enquiries@willcogley.com
GitHub: github.com/ikk...
Original pots mentioned in video: uk.rs-online.c...
New Pots: uk.rs-online.c...
The 30g silicone insulated wire from Hobby King is wonderfully soft and flexible for this sort of thing (go to workbench->wire & leads and then filter for 30 gauge, there are lots of colors and lengths)
wrapping wire ?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that's just silicone and not electrical wire.
@@MrWayash The item name does sound misleading, but it is multi-stranded copper wire with silicone insulation.
Can confirm, I used this type of wire in bionic limb development for my Masters
Can confirm, Silicone insulated wire is insanely flexible; also, your soldering iron won't melt the insulation.
Edit: heh, looks like someone else can confirm as well. Derp.
It’s so cool watching this project progress, my imagination just flares with a cyberpunk future.
I think if you used a resin 3d printer, your parts will be far more accurate. Great Project!
I believe the goal of his design is to be fault tolerant enough that it can be printed by a standard 3d printer.
agreed, more accurate parts, but less mechanical strengh
@@zfrenchy1716 Siraya Tech, among others, offers affordable ABS-like resin and flexible/impact-resistant resins. I've used the former to print T-nuts for my FDM printer that lasted longer than the same T-nut printed on my FDM printer. Throw in some chopped glass fiber and you could have a significantly stronger resin-printed part.
he mentions this at 7:11
@zfrenchy depends on material. Tough 2 from formlabs is pretty great.
I would recommend using “Blu” resin or anything made by the same company. It is pretty expensive ($50 for a bottle) but it is the strongest resin for Sla printing. I have tried using normal resin for mechanical type prints and the prints come out very brittle and snap very easily
Supposedly you're supposed to mix different resins to get the best material. I have a faint memory of people using Siraya Blu, but mixing it with something else to get extremely strong parts while Blu on it's own was either too brittle or something. Also there was a better alternative to Blu due to it often being out of stock, too expensive or something, but can't remember more about that.
Hey Will, for the pot cables try some wire-wrap wires, they're extra thin, usually 32awg, and are thined
Replacing the servo encoder with your own blew my mind - I never would have thought of doing that!
It's all about the pulleys! 🤘 ... also I just love the relocated trim pot
Great work, Will! The movement looks very tight, and I love the efficient design. Inspirational stuff!
RUclips didn't give me a notification but this was in my recommended feed uploaded 1 minute ago.
In your final design when you have the servo's for all the tendon wires in the forearm you could switch to a Two servo design and have all the tendon wires in an electronic clamp and only clamp on when you want to move each digit.
Im not even a robotics hobbyist but it seems like it could reduce weight and provide more space for wrist and forearm servos.
wow, ive been following the progress of your project and it is really getting a lot more refined. the cable and pulleys should give a pretty good grip strength
Great improvements..its amazing how it moved..like old horror movies where only cut hand will move around..
Btw have you tried PETG? It's easy as PLA to print but is very string and slides more easily without stickiness.
Next big step for your bionic hand should be compliant joints. that would be a quantum jump from robotic, rigid hand to a much more human-like hand.
I would definitely look into ribbon cable for your potentiometer wiring. Usually can get much thinner wires, and is scalable to how many wires you actually need. Although you will eventually run into the issue of how to route the wires in a moving object regardless of what you end up using.
You're gonna love SLA printing.
Precision components are so much easier, with far less post-processing, and they're stronger than you might think.
Keep doing what you are doing. You'll eventually get there.
Very good design. You should try to use 28 or 30 gauge magnet wire bundled together for the control wire. You will most likely not drop enough voltage through them since your control system is very close to the sensor.
Thank you for telling me what the ptfe tubes are called! I have been searching for that for a while now
Dude you realise that if this catches on you're probably going to make a sizeable impact on humanity.
Hi, amazing job Will! can you tell what is the name of the tool that you used here: 4:27?
I knew you was working on a full scale cyborg.
I want one!
I think I've made this comment before, but i am continually impressed by your inventiveness.
Great job, keep it up! Are you designing this as an option for prosthetics or as industrial manipulation?
Hey, you should take few hours to tweak your 3d printer , the quality can be greatly improved
nice video .. will see you next year
Try magnet wire, because it doesn't have the rubberized coating but is insulated with an enamel. So 32 gauge magnet wire is only about 0.008" or 0.2mm in total diameter.
I've got a Saturn on the way, going to use it to make some of your projects when it gets here!
That is amazing!
Nice! I personally own a resin printer (Elegoo Mars) and since the beginning of this project I was like, it would be way more precise hahaha, maybe a bit faster to print too and surely way smoother at the friction points, as a watchmaker I printed few parts for watches with great accuracy. Awesome videos!
0:40 superglued cut on finger :P
With abs you can glue it such that is is welded together for strength
This is all very big brain.
I think SLA printing is the way to go. But if ABS fumes are an issue for you, resin is also going to be a problem. Elegoo and eSun make water washable resins that give off less odor, but you really should find a well ventilated space to print.
5:35 what about earphone wires?
Have you considered ribbon cables? They can lay flat against the top of the fingers, and instead of having a bunch of loose wires you could have groups of 3 split off at each joint and have a single solid ribbon at the bottom end.
Like your work very detailed! Good work@
You should check out "Wire wrapping" wire. It is thin AWG 30 Wire, which is very bendable.
Woooohoooo a full finger
You can go thinner on the line if you use kevlar line.
Also, I use petg for most of my prints, it's much better than abs and pla
Question: Isn't the sensor built into the servo supposed to also help the servo determine the direction of rotation? If you move that further down the linkage wouldn't the finger sometimes accidentally move the wrong way for a bit before "realizing" and making the correct motion?
Perhaps you should use magnet wire instead of the thick wire? Its not like theres any power involved here.
if you use genetic algorithms to train how to move the joints. With 200 generations you could have some nice results.
I believe you are using the potentiometer in the phalanges for servo feedback. why not leave these potentiometers mounted in your own servo case ? Will it give you enough accuracy than in the phalanges ? Simplification is the game for machine durability.
Have you thought about making the pinky and third finger (next to pinky) not as complex?
I typically use my 1st and 2nd finger in combination with my thumb where dexterity is required. But I rarely use my other fingers for such movement.
Watch out the finger is trying to escape!
If you could achieve this using FDM parts it would be far far more accessible as SLA usually needs a lot of safety precautions and waste management handling.
Things lile this are where graphene and carcbon nanotubes will see their most potential, in creating smaller electronic components like actuators, connrctions, and sensors.
Have you considered using ribbon cables?
Whereabouts are you located? I dare say it is not Australia but if it is let me know as I have a resin printer
What about fine dynema rope? I have some that's about 1mm thick with a brake weight of 270kg. If you can find twisted instead of woven you might be able to use a strand of that, woven might work too, just harder to seperate.
Have you considered this kind of "roling joint" (3-DOF wrist joint) for the wrist?
From what I could see it imitates the entirety of the motions the human wrist is capable of, including the fact that roling the hand doesn't turn it around 360°.
LIMS2-AMBIDEX mechanical design ruclips.net/video/aLaqMreVj9o/видео.html
LIMS 2 - AMBIDEX Arm Joint recreated and printed ruclips.net/video/RXhtcWz5GBg/видео.html
Hey man love your videos about this project, i was wondering if i can use some of your ideas for a personal project of mine
Have you considered printing in PETG filament? If you are thinking of moving to ABS, PETG offers much better ease of use while mainting good mechanical properties :)
What printer are you using btw?
Okay, since you are already 3D printing your parts. Why not get a duel head extruders, and print conductive lines, to replace your wires?
would not work
Could you use the cable itself as a drain or ground to have fewer cables running to each finger?
Awesome!
Need a somewhat similar system for ankles.
What this software brob ?
Please
Use worm drive instead of gears. Its much smaller
Annnnnnnnd WHY does it look so similar to a T-800 endoskeleton finger? Just idly curious. *WHAT ARE WE TRYING TO BUILD HERE, HM?*
What the hell is a Zentimeter??
Im considering ONE MOTOR to use cable like this with electric clutches to engage. Using the motor as a gyroscope constantly running. That is ONE MOTOR to run a whole ROBOTIC body from ankles to knees to hips etc... It could all be run by cables and a steam engine if desired. None of the joints does any more than 145 degrees, so not even half a rotation of any of the cable joints. A work in progress...
horrible idea. many muscles have to work at same time to get a good humanoid
AWESOME JOB MAN but For mimicking the human finger you don't need 3 actuators , just 1 on the base like the (Naked Prosthetics)
no you need 3, one for side to side, one for distal and medial, one for base forward and back. using 1 or even 2 greatly diminishes what can be achieved with the finger in question and weakens it too --- I mean unless you are just trying to be a little noob making a toy finger, if that is the case use one motor for all 5 fingers and be trash
I'd consider using Ribbon Cable, such as used to be used to connect CD drives and HDD's before SATA came out. You can peel off wires from the ribbon as needed. I'm thinking ≡≡≡≡====---- Maybe even a flexible PCB
You need a SLA printer, It will help you with your design's tiny details
Que clase de mini motor es ése????
Alguien puede explicarme eso please!!!
mg90 de tower pro, saludos
Flat flex cable might be helpful for this project. This one has the same spacing as your potentiometer leads. 0.18mm thick. Scrape away the top side insulation and solder it down. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/parlex-usa-llc/PSR1635-03/AF03-5-ND/213513
Be careful about the resin printed parts. I have a Form 2 and 3, and resin-printed parts tend to creep if you're not careful about post-curing, and they may even warp significantly during curing if they have too high of surface area-to-volume. Plus they tend to be much more dense that FDM parts if you are using an infill, and way more expensive.
Why replicating the human finger construction if you can do something with more capabilities? For example ability to rotate each part individually
Wow! He's a live!!! )))
contact gearbest and ask them to send you a resin printer to review. You have enough subs. They probably will
Great video like ever, is fantastic to see your designs. Only the printed product looks like shit, you should maybe take 2 or 3 days to tweak your 3d Printer that you get better fitting parts. You are right a resign printer is perfect for such small parts, but it cost more time and effort to get the parts finished.
The freedom and flexibility from this design is real great. I think its a little overengeniert because normal finger can only flex on a small degree.
Maybe you get it much smaller that the end product not looks like a double sized hand.
Great work until now, i hope that i never need a mechanic hand, but when the time comes i hope you are finished with it.
#3
603zz is 3x9x5mm, your model doesn't match that, thickness is way off.
Hello good evening thank you for being beautiful thank you for being wonderful I hope you have a great day. Good night the Greatness in you is beautiful
Ugh that's so weird looking xD
Will! Yo shit is too complex, dig deep on anatomy and think about designing within bioligical limitations, also do some big think on emulating biological joint designs, the forces involved are quite reasonable.
resin printer is better,
Why is your 3d printing still so caca?
Another thing you might consider is either partnering with someone who knows molding and casting or learning to do it yourself. You can get much stronger parts from casting solid pieces out of production resins like the TASK series from Smooth On.
Also, good plan with moving the servo resistors!
what about using headphone wires, they are really thin and flexible
Would it be possible to use earphone wires as they are very thin but strong enough for some bends?
Can you link where you got the rotary encoders
Can somebody please sponsor him with a resin printer? I've git all my limbs, but this is really cool.
Really nice work and clean camera views. Would be awesome if you go to i-materialise.com and 3d print this in stainless steel. It's expensive but within reach. crowd fund the cost for one finger. I'd be happy to contribute, to see results =) Obviously to realize lightweight you'd have to punch out some material from the models...
Get a phrozen sonic mini. $260 USD.
This is a cool project, I like the idea of moving the potentiometers out to the joints. FYI ABS fumes are absolutely toxic, please avoid breathing them. Additionally, SLA printers have their own toxic handling issues (part cleaning with alcohol is imperative).
This video series got recommended to me by RUclips because I have been designing a steampunk character with a lot of biometric parts. I am not any kind of engineer or technichian, I only get half the jargon, but seeing something like a hand being built and carefully tweaked to act so organically is so crazy and sci-fi to my little writer/illustrator brain! I love your work so much, and just know that you hold the fascination of a very confused yet highly curious mind with your careful explanations and video documentation 💛
Maybe an interesting idea for minimizing the number of wires running through the fingers;
Most, if not every, servo's have the potentiometer directly connected to the power lines. If you make sure that all servo's for one finger share the same power supply,
you can connect the potentiometers in the finger together, with only the control wire having to be separate. That would reduce the number of wires lower in the finger from 9 to 5,
Make sure to check if the potentiometers are connected directly to power before doing this!
man keep doing what your doing m8 this shit is bloody great! This is like the first marble machine. I'm really looking forward for what it's going to be like in the future!
7:08, when ABS is melted it releases styrene in the fumes, styrene is a suspected carcinogen, so that would make sense why it would give you a headache
Anyone willing to print these parts out and ship them to me for a small profit? #TooPoor4ProperTools
Next Step: Aluminium pieces ? With a mini Lathe and Milling machine like Proxon PF230 you could be able to make your pieces fast...
Concerning servo motors, you could consider using linear motion system...
Great work and realization!
Sir you make cad design on which software......??
I love your work ❤️❤️
hey servo geek, need an oil change?
Hello. What 3D printer setup are you using? You should be able to get a lot better print quality results than what I'm seeing in your videos.
Incredible... But the important question is -
If you pull on it, does your computer fart?
Why not use coil wire? Thinner and insulated. Yes, you could really use a cheap resin printer!
Have you tried fioptic cable? It is as then as you can get with the fastest response time as well.
Your small parts look really clean and tidy. What size hotels are you using for them?