The Argument For Collecting Low Grade Vintage Cards- Which Grade Is Best?
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- Опубликовано: 5 июн 2023
- While investors focus their attention acquiring high grade and high quality vintage cards, many collectors are content buying up lower grades. "Buy the card, not the grade" is such a common comment from true collectors. "The key is having the card, condition is secondary" is another phrase you're likely to hear from a true collector. Personally, as a collector myself, I totally agree with both of these comments and have plenty of lower grade slabs myself. The question, however, is WHICH of the lower grade slabs should collectors be targeting to get the most bang for their collector buck? In this video, I will make the argument as to why each of the grades of 1 through 4 are the best grade to target, ultimately wondering...what do other collectors think? I look forward to hearing your comments and opinions.
The RUclips channel I referenced in this episode is Chris from Missouri: @chrisfrommissouri
I hope you'll consider checking out some of my other recent videos posts here:
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I’ll buy anything from 5 down, but there’s nothing better than a 1-2 with great eye appeal. You’re 100% right, I know it’s real and most likely wasn’t messed with. That’s how I collect.
Great minds think alike. :-)
Actually not really you make no sense
Love the channel. SO refreshing to find a collector showing and talking cards without profits being the be all end all. You bring up some great points and bring out a big part of what's missing in the hobby. We collect cards or we are supposed to be, not the plastic surrounding it.
Agreed. But, I think a lot of people are heavily influenced by the plastic. It's hard not to.
Couldnt agree more about the grades. I wanted to do a Mays run and decided i could get 6-8’s and it take me 10 yrs or buy 3-5’s and it take me 1-2 years. On month 8 and all i need is a 53 to be done and couldnt be happier
Wow. That sounds like an incredible collection.
Well done 😊
I like 4s and 5s because they usually don't have creases and the price is good for collecting and I'm also not an invester so im with u.
Totally agree. Well said and totally get that perspective.
Really enjoyed your video. Just getting back in collecting after almost 30 years. This information is quite helpful. Thanks for all your insight.
Welcome back to the hobby. Many of us in our 40s and 50s are reentering the hobby, and having more fun than ever. Now we have more time and money to participate!!
I picked up a Jim Kaat rookie in an SGC 1 for $30. It looks like a 6 but it has an ink mark on the back. I will take a card like that any day
I think people but entirely too much emphasis on what the back looks like. You dont want one thats trashed but a ink mark…i’ll take it all day!
Great buy. I totally agree. Very few people even flip a card over and look at the back.
Loved this video, your take on grading is so refreshing and great to see these things from collectors rather than investors.
MOST people that call themselves a sports card investor, I roll my eyes at. To me, this is a hobby, and may have some financial benefit. But, if you're doing it solely for an "investment" I think you should be putting more money into the S and P
Agree with you, for rare cards any grade will do. Mostly look for mid grade 4-6 depending on the card. But more expensive cards lower grade is fine. Most of my higher grade cards were bought raw.
I 100% agree with you, Orlando.
Case in point.. 59’ Topps Mantle’s..I have a 59’ Mantle All Star in a PSA “5” which is a real blazer for a “5” and that card present so well!! I always wanted to own his regular issue card but was way out of my reach so I settled on the AllStar card.. then I saw a PSA “1” Mantle #10 base card and it was priced at a cost I could live with, granted four rounded corners and one corner crease..I bought it without a second thought!! That was a dream come true!! Thanks for your outstanding video!!
Congrats on those cards!!
Great points. That you’ve done it all sitting on the floor in front of your couch is awesome too!
LOL. I know...I'm a goober about that.
Very helpful video!! Thanks for sharing and breaking things down.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks!!
I just subscribed based on this video. You have made me rethink my collecting strategy. If a 4, 3 or even a 2 or 1 is pleasing to my eye, who cares if others think I should go for a 6 thru 10? I'm a collector, generally not a seller/flipper. At the end of the day, It's my opinion that counts. All my cards, watches, bass guitars etc are going to my wife and kids. Mainly the kids as my wife would sell for pennies on the dollar! I still love her anyway. You have some great cards! Where do you mainly buy your cards, shows? I back new into collecting as the past 7 years we lived in Germany. I'll have to hit some shows in Tampa and around the area. It will be a new experience for me.
Appreciate the kind words and agree that pleasing to the eye is all that matters. A grade is just one person's opinion. I buy about half of my cards on ebay and half at card shows.
It’s impossible to determine as its all individually dependent. I feel the biggest factor for each collector to determine their target grade is their financial situation. The “value” is all relative to what you can comfortably afford and can fit into your collecting budget. Some will argue that that’s a given but it’s really not - we all know people who have a $25k card collection but $700 in their savings account.
Guilty 😂
@@bp6614 me too!!! But really more like $300 in my savings 😂
VERY VERY well said. Being financially responsible is super important.
Great video Graig. I do have 5 and 6 graded cards of some of the lesser HOFers but generally I find myself buying 3 and 4. Because of cost and wanting a particular player, I have even purchased 1 and 2 with great eye appeal with occasional back issues to save some money.
Totally get it and totally agree.
Nice insights here. Eye appeal is always my first requirement for any vintage target. But as a numbers guy my decision making on what grade I target takes into account what % of the total pop is above, in and below the target grade and compare that to how pricing changes between those grades. Thats my "bang for the buck" anaylsis.
I do generally try to go for tougher grades as i know the supply for higher graded examples does not go up nearly as quickly as low grade. But your point on owning the card is well said!
I totally get that. Total pop % above really gives you an idea of where your card stands compared to all the others that are out there. For me, I don't worry a ton about pop reports, because I know a lot of cards have been cracked and resubmitted so many times, a lot of the pop totals are way off.
Here’s the deal very interesting video, collect what you like and mostly afford. Always have fun and enjoy the process. Great video
For me, anything lower than 3 tells me to save my money until I can get there. A 2 seems to drop to a banger for my eyes, but I have seen some pretty nice 2.5s out there. The bottom line is CASH for CARDS. If you are happy and justify the sale, its great. Keep Questing ... GREAT VID!
Great video,I agree with you that first thing about collecting is you HAVE TO HAVE THE CARD first. My case in point is a 1933 Sports King Jim Thorpe graded a1 it has great eye appeal with some paper loss on the back but no wording is gone. This card has given me a new outlook on buying vintage because like you,having the card is what it’s all about.
I LOVE the sports king cards from 1933. I've been hunting the three golfer cards from that set for years. Also, I love a handful of others as well...including the Thorpe.
@@MidLifeCards I’m getting the Grange this Saturday. My friend from 5th grade and love your train of thought. He and I are primarily football. He also believes in going back in collecting. His collection is sick,he has the Mayo set complete except for the anonymous,all before the internet!
Be watching Wednesday👏👏👏
There is an inverse ratio I generally observe. The bigger and more valuable the card, the lower the number I’ll accept. I am totally comfortable in the observable defect world of 1-2-3s because when I own them, I own the overwhelming beauty of the card in addition to whatever flaw subtracted from the value.
I think of cards the way I think of the cars I’ve owned. New ones off the line better be a 10 to start. But my 72 Super Beetle that had a dented rear fender was a PSA 1 all the way and I didn’t care! It was vintage, cool looking and drove like a champ! I was so proud to own it and all it’s warts.
REALLY well said. Your opinion matches mine exactly.
PERFECTLY stated.
Agree with you on the grades/cost ratio!
Awesome video Graig! Im really enjoying your videos on grades and value. Historically I had been buying raw only, but as I start buying more expensive cards online, at least the grading gives you an idea of the condition and authenticity, you hit on this in a previous video. I have been watching cards on eBay lately, and it seems like there are so many low grade cards with great eye appeal. As long as it looks good, I’m fine with it! Plus lower grade means lower price which means more cards I can buy on my budget. Thanks for the content man, great videos!
Appreciate you a ton. You've been such a kind and consistent commenter of mine for a very long time. I really appreciate your feedback and words. Thanks so much.
@@MidLifeCards I appreciate the content, look forward to your videos every week!
So you can't tell if an ungraded card is authentic or not it's easy to do
Now if you're buying cards online yeah it's harder to tell if it's real or not
Great video Graig! I like the strategy of buying 3's and 4's to get the best vintage cards with good eye appeal. I usually try to buy the grade for the decade (so 60's in 6's, 40's in 4's, etc) for my "must have" cards. When there is a card that I like and want to get for the collection, but is not on my list of "must have" cards, I try to buy 3's - 5's depending on eye appeal for the price. If I can find a 2 (priced as a 2) that looks as good as a 4, I'd take it over a 4. Buy the card, not the grade! Thanks for sharing the video, great topic and helps new collectors get into the hobby without scaring them off with high priced cards.
I totally agree and think you make some excellent points. I'd love to check out your collection...because based on what I've seen, I have a feeling it's insane. That Nolan Ryan RC you showed the other day was nuts.
@@MidLifeCards Thanks Graig! I have Top 100 videos from January (100-51 and 50-1). I've picked up some new stuff since then. I'd be open to giving you a private virtual tour of the collection. Let me know. Thanks!
I picked up a mantle 1958 all star psa 4
Such an iconic card. Great buy.
Nice video, I will keep all my 1-5's from now on! I had 40 cards graded and now maybe I should keep them! Thanks
I think the monetary savings is worth it.
I am so glad I found this video and subscribed. I had been watching a particular card of PCL LA Angels player, Bernard Curtis. Three had come up for auction. came up on First was a 1910 with a grade of 4. It had a small black stamp mark on back, but looked great . Was asking $490. Second was a 1911 and also a 4. However, it looked like a generous 1. Had visible discoloration. Corners were frayed. Sold for $110. The third was a 1910. Graded 1.5. Looked the best of them all. Only 2 faint creases that were hard to see. Sold for $89 . I guess grading is subjective. But who ever got the 1.5 got best looking card.
Appreciate that feedback. Glad you enjoyed it!
Great content. I am strictly a collector as well and 3’s and 4’s are my sweet spot. I target these cards based on the card. If it is a more desired card like a 54 topps mays I am good with a 3 as that nest fits my budget. If it’s a lesser card like a 1960 nellie fox I target the 4’s. If it’s a real big card (in comparison to my budget), like a 1933 goudey dizzy dean or a 53 bowman mantle I target good looking 1’s.
I'd love to have a Goudey Dean or a 53 bowman Mantle....in ANY condition. I totally agree.
I’ve got a 1973 Hank Aaron Topps card, PSA 1..it’s got a clear wrinkle but I got it for a great price..having the card is what matters most
Completely agree, Raheem. Well said.
You are spot on. Your PSA 1 s looked great to me. I would love to have any of those. Don’t forget how inconsistent PSA is. A true collector just wants the card regardless of condition. You can always trade up in the future 👍👏
totally agree. 100%
For the most part, when I'm in this type of conversation with friends, we feel that typically, value wise, a grade in the 3-5 range, of an excellent eye appealing and centered card, is where we find the best bang for our buck. Yes, it does seem that the sweet spot of this is a 4. Also agree with your thought of 1's and 2's for those super expensive older and/or rookie cards. Either way, as has been said many times, buy the card, not the grade, that may apply here. Thanks for the content, excellent as always.
Appreciate that...and I agree...the 3-5 grades are the sweet spot.
I know I’m watching your channel a lot because I have your opening music memorized.
YES!! That's awesome!!!
Great video. I will echo a lot of the sentiments here. When I first started back collecting vintage as an adult along about 2015, I remember thinking everything had to be higher-end mid. I had a '58 Aaron in a PSA 4 and remember thinking "Wow, this is a low grade." Not at all. Nearly a decade later, this is one of my favorite places to play with vintage. People forget that technical grading isn't necessarily a direct tie to eye appeal. And there can be a ton of value in PSA / SGC 3 grades and lower. Excellent point on the 1 being able to checkoff a card, and just being honest - some of the things I target simply aren't affordable anymore in like 7's or higher. For some of the rookies and other marquee vintage cards, anything 5 and above can get pricey fast. At the end of the day, I could have a small collection of high end cards, or I can have a larger collection of cards that still look great but grade lower technically. I'll take the latter every single time. You can also play the game at the higher end of the "midgrade" spectrum - for example I have a '61 Yogi Berra in a PSA 6 that I'm pretty sure was an 8 (OC) that someone requested no qualifiers on. It's pack fresh, and you could shave with the corners - has just a bit of a tilt cut with the OC. I'll take that for like a quarter of the price of a straight 8 all day long. Depending on what it is, I don't mind mild to moderate creasing if it's not on the player's face. Generally I'm more of a color and picture focus guy than I am centering conscious - simply because when I first started collecting - nobody cared about centering unless a card was miscut. 70/30 one way isn't going to bother me. I know you like graded, but since I grew up collecting before grading was a thing - raw cards in lower grade typically don't bother me either if I can see them in person first before buying, and they aren't terribly expensive. I can always get something graded later if I want to. Either way though, low grade can be the way to go. PSA serves its purpose, but they really did a number on some folks who always "have to" have a card in a certain type of slab. Their loss.
Really well said and some terrific points. Appreciate you watching and commenting with such a great contribution. Thanks!!
My sweet spot has been SGC 4.5. I’ll buy that 56 Ted for 3.5 pricing!! Next time you show, a Clemente rookie in a 1, give your boy a call!
LOL.
I personally think there is a great case to be made and its my belief that the eye appeal will trump the grade in the long run on a percentage basis for investment purposes. I do not think a PSA 9 or any high grade will be a better investmant than an incredible looking low grade. In fact I would and I have and will continue to beat the drum that high grades are way over priced and will underperform vs a great looking low grade option on a percentage basis. I think the high grades have already had there moment of glory meaning that ship has sailed the opportunity to buy the high grade vintage and them zooming to the moon has already taken place and the future is much brighter for those people collecting the best looking copy possible in the lowest grade possible. Ok im done 😂😂 awesome job on this one Graig.
Love PSA 3s and 3.5s. I've got a beautiful 1955 Topps Jim Thorpe in a 3.5 and I bsolutely love it
I LOVE that Jim Thorpe card. Super jealous.
Agreed. I collect on eye appeal and like to purchase in the 3-6 area. Some things make no sense. A 1976 Topps Hank Aaron PSA 9 just sold for $2024. A gorgeous PSA 9 with a "pd" qualification (a print dot in the back) sold for $133 on eBay a few weeks ago.
Incredibly GREAT example.
Love the video! Great info!
Thanks so much. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment.
I agree. I collect only psa 1 graded vintage rookie cards. They are my personal collection. And like you said. I can say I have one. If I was waiting to save up for a higher grade I’d wait forever and never have anything. Plus. Call me crazy. But I dig a 50+ year old card with wrinkles and fuzzy corners. They look their age. A gem mint 10 card that’s 50-75 years old isn’t as appealing to me as a collector item. But I understand it for an investment standpoint.
It's like patina on an old coke sign.
Great video and at 50 years old just finding my childhood cards, I am now following the same pattern as you. I found I had the 86 Fleer Basketball Card set and thought, WOW...I want a BGS 9 set which I bought a few of then the BGS 9.5 scare came out that would have completely devalued all those BGS 9.5 cards people spent thousands and thousands on. So, I had a lot of autographs and decided to go that route with authentic autos only with nice looking cards! Why? I was looking at PSA 10s that were WAY off centering and thought, we are not far away from AI taking over the card grading world that will be far more consistent and accurate without any bias for the player. When that happens, who will want human graded cards and what will become of the value? We all know that part of the marketing push will be to dismiss the quality of human graded cards. When that transition happens and it will, the nice looking lower grade cards and the authentic autos with no grades at all will be impacted the least. People don't buy cards anymore, they buy grades and that house of cards, I personally believe will come crumbling down.
I think you make some really good points, and I think you're probably right. I will be surprised if at some point an AI company takes over the card grading market and older graded cards are cracked out and put into the AI slabs. And, I also believe that people are buying grades not card. I completely agree...well said.
I think it is also important to consider the grade in the context of the overall population. I know some folks who are averse, for example, to any cards that are graded less than a 7, but it's important to keep in my mind that for some cards, especially when you start the journey into really vintage cards, the highest graded card in existence may be a 4. Maybe you're considering a card and there are examples graded in a 7, even an 8, but those you can count on the fingers of one hand. I recently picked up an early 20s Waite Hoyt card in a 3. I was ok with that because when I checked the pop count, between the major companies, only about 40 have been graded in total, and of those 40, the highest grade is a 5, of which there is one. There is a handful of 4s, a handful of 3s, and the remainder are lower grades and authentics. Once you start getting into the 40s and farther back, the pop counts start to really dwindle, as does condition. So a 3 may actually be a really good grade, really, even an investment grade, as the supply is just non existent.
I am considering picking up at some point some of the 33/34 Goudey rookies. There are 7s floating around, but you can find 5s and even 6s for a fraction of the 7s and, actually, the 5s and 6s for those particular sets are still relatively scarce, maybe in the couple of 100 examples range. I'd rather spend $1200 on two nice 6s than $1200 on one 7.
Good point. My video that posts tomorrow will go into looking at Pop reports in relation to costs.
This was a great rewatch a week before National '24.
Awesome!! Thanks for watching it again!!
Can't believe you got hank rookie....the card that haunts me...if you recall...the hank rookie..signed and sealed in plastic block..was entrusted to me by father who passed...and I lost the card.
Anytime I see it...its just....like a sick feeling..
Nice cards!
Ugh. That's tough. Keep looking forward, not backward. Everything happens for a reason.
Hey Graig! I agree with your concept that having a lower grade is better than holding out for a higher grade. To carry that Mantle example further, would you also buy a costly Authentic card as well? I would & have done so & will buy more if need be to fit my “collector” budget. Since 4 is my favorite number, I usually go for that grade.
It's all about personal preference. For my personal preference, I try to avoid "authentic" cards. Not that I'm against them, but something makes me bummed about...thinking about how somebody altered a card.
Recent subscriber, and videos like this are why. The section on PSA 3's closely addresses my situation with a 1932 Sanella Babe Ruth. It looks to my eye like a Near Mint or better, but PSA says 4. Therefore it must have a tiny wrinkle that can't be discerned in the slab.
You persuaded me to go hunting for PSA 1-2 Mantles, Mays, Jackies, etc. My Mantle run (minus 51B and 52T) is PSA 5-6. Maybe I should sell those off and make my new project to collect Mantles in 1-2 with good eye appeal. The spouse would love that plan!
I genuinely believe that buying undergraded cards are a great way to have an awesome collection for a much more affordable price.
I'm a vintage football card collector, fellow educator, and love the SGC 3 grade. I find that cards in this grade are a great value, usually offering strong colors and tremendous eye appeal.
Totally agree. 3 and 3.5 grades are usually really nice cards!!
All I personally care about is centering and no creases. Soft corners don't bother me. But, according to a previous post of yours, if you want a high return you need to buy the highest grade possible.
That's exactly where I'm at as a collector as well.
I usually try to buy cards that will grade in the 3-5 range if ungraded and 4-6 range if graded think that is a sweet spot for value. For iconic cards like an Aaron or Clemente RC I think 1-2 are the most affordable way to grab an iconic card.
I have a 56 Aaron that is an A because it was trimmed I still love the card it has a beautiful picture with no wrinkles, bought it really cheap.
I LOVE the 56 Aaron. It's on my shortest of short lists. Great buy.
We collect exactly the same. My collection is FULL of grail-cards between grades 1-3 that have nice eye appeal. I even don't mine "A" cards either. As long as it's not a counterfeit, I'm happy.
I get that, for sure.
I say starting at lower grades and then upgrading if you have the chance and it makes sense. I also think if you can find good deals on 1-3s and maybe get more value in a trade towards a higher grade is the move
That's a good way to do it. I don't really mind having a 2 or a 3 grade, so it's fairly rare that I upgrade down the road. I just find a low grade that I like the looks of.
Another great video, Graig!
Appreciate the kind words. Thanks so much.
Well centered 3's with strong eye appeal. Dont mind a crease as long as its not across the face of the player.
Great topic btw.
Totally agree with you. Appreciate the kind words.
Those are some of the best 2s I’ve ever seen good job 👍
Appreciate it. Again, for me...a grade is just a guide. Buying a 2 that looks like a 3 or a 4 is just a money saver in my opinion.
just subscribed to you..never seen ur channel of the card content creators I watch… why do you not show up in the search “sports cards”.. I’m thinking becuase ur channel starts with “Midlife”… dang… I love this video and tell by looking at ur titles of videos I want to watch ur other videos.. I came across this channel as another one I subscribe to ended and it just auto loaded the next video...
Appreciate the kind words. Really means a lot. Not sure why I don’t show up on sports card searches, but I’m glad you found me!!
I agree with you but that’s because I’m a collector younger generations every card is what it’s worth I’m more interested in collecting who I enjoy collecting -appreciate you thanks for video
Thanks so much. Appreciate your comments and taking the time to watch. :-)
Ungraded mid-level condition cards are even cheaper. That's what I look to buy
Im def not that good at identifying fakes or altered. I buy graded for that reason
@@pete5691 Graded cards can be fakes or altered, too. Not often, but it happens
@@pete5691 Why would someone go to all the trouble to make a fake card then sell it as a mid-level condition raw card that sells for pennies on the dollar?
@@milldude19 Money.
@@ACD1994 That’s true but I guess I feel it’s safer than ungraded.
I may be wrong, but in my opinion. Finding that great $1 -2 box at a show or in a good card store is the way to go.
It's definitely a lot of fun. Totally agree.
Another entertaining topic. Imo, most people would also have to consider their sports card budget along with the grade when purchasing vintage. How many people can afford an Aaron,Mays or Mantle Rookie at a Grade 3 or 4 ? Most would have to consider a 1 or 2, so the grade aspect is basically a take it or leave it issue in this case.
Those are great cards, but a lot of money that the average person isn't going to be buying. I wouldn't recommend them for people who are new to the hobby either, it's better imo to start on a smaller scale than working your way up over the months and years.
Well said. Great points.
I like them because they are cheaper and look better then the higher grades. I have a 1953 PSA 4 and a PSA 2 1968 Hank Aaron And they are nice cards. Shows age and it is real.
Love it. Well said.
Great video. Very true
Thanks for watching!
Pretty cool to see low grades get positive attention. A 1 grade is the way to go if having the card is the goal. For cards I don’t care what the value or appearance is and therefore go for a “low grade” I stick to raw cards. The only exception is my 48 bowman Musial that I should get back next week, and will likely grade a 1. That one I wanted protected because it is a “grail” card.
Nothing wrong with low grade cards....because at the end of the day, it's about having the card. I totally agree with you.
Great insights. Love the 1 v 2 who logic 🤔 I never woke up with a 10 but one time I went home with 2 fives. 😂
I like that saying. Good stuff.
Great topic. Spot on how i collect
You and me both!
Depends on the age of the card. I try to collect the collectors grade. But the old adage is buy the card not the grade
100%. Well stated.
For mid 1960's cards and before. I 1000% agree with you. Thankfully I bought a bunch of these 20 years ago when I was a teenager because I loved my Dads baseball card collection. Some of the cards that cost me a ton of money at the time like 55 Koufax Rookie (I hate the Dodgers but best card ever). I would not be able to afford today even at low grades. I would rather have 10 cool ass vintage cards than binders full of modern cards. Just my POV, thanks for the video. I think 3-5's are the sweet spot for vintage cards for the normies out there.
Totally agree about 3-5s being the sweet spot!!
Love this video agree with you 110%
Appreciate that a ton. Thanks so much.
I try and get PSA 7 and higher on my 80’s through 50’s vintage. I would luv to see ur modern collection. I collect current MLB players too.
A lot of my modern stuff is soccer and a young pitcher for the Tigers named Matt Manning, as he was a former student.
@@MidLifeCards I didn’t know you collected soccer. California has got great athletes old and new. I’m from SoCal but live in Oregon now.
I buy just raw cards but I look for low grade that might have wrinkles, tape, or even writing on them. They are in poor condition. I know collectors are going to lose their minds but I restore these cards. I have soaked cards to get wrinkles minimized. I how to remove tape and tape residue. I also can remove ink writting. I do color touch but mostly with color penciles. I restore comics also and have used my experience to do cards. I buy cheap and I enjoy trying to shine up a turd. I hope not to many readers fainted while reading this. Great video, lower condition is the way to build a collection fast.
It's an interesting topic, because I know how much people are against any sort of altering, but I know that you're not alone in feeling the way that you do.
I buy the card I want. I don’t worry about the grade, especially if it is vintage from a time when they weren’t cared for as well. I like seeing it in person if possible. Nothing wrong with low grade cards. Some can look really good.
I totally agree.
I just got a GMA 4 1960 Jim Brown. I am very very happy with it. Down to Bart Star to complete the set.
Yes!!! Go get it!!
I think the answer is all the above...grade 1 thru 4. As a collector, I can't always target the grade nor eye appeal of cards that are available for sale. So, if I see one that I like and fits the budget, I buy. It could be a 1, 2, 3 or 4. Given that you have a range of grades in your collection, I guess you share a similar view? Lol
Indeed.
Super solid content
Appreciate that a ton. Thanks so much.
I’m not afraid to grab a great looking 1 with say a pinhole or an ink mark on it. Let’s me get into some cards that would otherwise be way out of my price range.
I totally get that. Hard to disagree.
I've found that the grade of the decade 5's for 50s, 6's for 60s, etc. is usually where I land, with high eye appeal, good centering, or a nice half-grade +. I don't like any condition issue that makes think about that thing instead of the card. So even a beautiful 5 let's say it has wax on back, if that wax on back is one of the first things I think about when I look at the card then that card is not the one for me. One hard line I've drawn in creases or wrinkles. Therefore I usually filter out 4's and belows as many (but not all) cards in this grade may have this present. I have a handful of 3.5's and 4s but these particular cards I own don't have an actual surface wrinkle/crease.
Most of my vintage cards graded in a 4 don't seem to have a noticeable wrinkle or crease, but there are definitely some flaws. Whether a corner is miscut or off centered, some times a surface defect, but still not much of a crease or wrinkle, at times there's some sort of damage on the back of the card. Usually though, I just look for eye appeal overall and then, if the price makes sense and I can afford/feel comfortable to pay up for it.
I think the grade of the decade is a great rule of thumb for really very nice cards from the era that it comes from. Doing that will result in a very nice collection in my opinion. For me, I just like having the card more than having a "nice one." :-)
I think that if a card has a crease it depends on how much you are willing to pay and how bad the crease is. I know i have bought cards and didn't notice it had a crease until after i held it at a certain angle.
I totally agree. Well said.
Whenever i see cards with creases or stains even i will use product from kurts card care and work on them you can get some creases to lift and stains to go down and will submit them its not altering in anyway and will get cards for cheap that way
I've never heard of kurts card care, but I'm curious how the card collecting community feels about stuff like that. I may look into it and see what others think. Interesting topic for sure.
A pinhole seems to be an automatic 1….I have some PSA 1 cards that would be a 5 to 7 if not for the pinhole….I really like them….also have a number of cards where the stray pen mark took it way below what the card would be otherwise…happy with those as well…I only dislike trimmed ‘Authentic’ cards…I just don’t want to collect something where another person was attempting a scam….
Good points and well said.
I collect hockey too and I usually pick up older cards if the price is right even raw
I LOVE older hockey cards. Some of the older Gordie Howe cards are super iconic and awesome.
Do you know how hard PSA grades for a minor ink defect on front border?
If it's a foreign ink, like from a pen, they'll destroy the grade. If it's a print mark from the manufacturer, it may affect it one grade depending on the amount.
5s are my target for vintage and 9s or 10s on new
I get that. Vintage 5s are usually VERY nice cards.
Here is my rule of thumb for my collection when i am card buying. Grade # equal to the decade. I.e. t206 equals psa 1, 50s = psa 5, etc.
Yeah. A lot of people go by that theory, and I think it's a good one.
I have a 1984 Elway that is a PSA 4 that is nearly perfect other than back small surface wrinkle.
Eye appeal is kind in my opinion!!
I don't do graded, just raw. I don't acquire wrinkles and creases. I'm a corner guy, not a center guy. That's because QC in the old days was terrible, so centering was all over the map. But cards that were treated well should not be dinged. And likely will also have good surface and image quality. So I go for my own evaluation of solid mid-grade - vgex+ at the low end up to nm which shakes out at about 4.5 thru 7. Above nm, the prices seem to skyrocket out of my range.
I totally get it and hear you for sure. My dad doesn't do graded cards either. He loves them the way they were intended...raw.
4. But I like two grade up from the year of the cards.
Agreed. That's a good spot in the market to go after.
After watching this video, my question would be can lower grades not just be collectable, but also investment, too? Will cards from the 50's and 60's that are graded for example, in the 3 and 4 range be more than their current value in five to ten years from now?
A Mickey Mantle 1952 Topps PSA 1 is, an extreme where grade doesn't matter much. A PSA 1, that's a 20 to 25 thousand dollar card. The average person isn't going to be buying (affording).But, I understand where you're coming from. Definitely feel grades, are just a guide. Not all card presents themselves equally
Absolutely. Low grades can also be an "investment." Ideally they will go up in value. But, what I've seen from looking at data is that higher grades appreciate a larger percentage over time than lower grades. But, that doesn't mean it will always be that way.
I like your philosophy. However I'm a set builder
I collect high grade vintage hockey because I participate in the set registry. That being said I don't buy the high grade cards, I buy raw cards and send them in to be graded. You'd be surprised what a low population common will bring. I bought a bunch of raw 1968 hockey commons for four bucks a card that I sent in to PSA to get graded most came back at 7 and 8 I think I also got a 9. However I got a PSA 10 on a Bruce McGregor I think he was on the Red wings at the time. I wasn't really collecting the 68 set because it's wicked hard because the centering being off a little bit totally ruins the card because of the tiny borders. I reached out to several people on the set registry. And two guys offered me a $1,000 without quibbling several other people expressed an interest in were willing to pay for it. I said to myself I should list this on eBay if there's so much interest in it. It's sold for $2,000. A $4 raw common went for $2,000
I have a ton of respect for set builders.
@@MidLifeCards thank you for the kind words. I enjoy your videos.
What do you think about a card with nice corners but are fuzzie especially vintage
The clarity of the image on vintage cards really makes them stand out, it could still be a great card, but eye appeal and aesthetics, can be a bit of a bummer
agreed.
My personal preference is the clarity of the card, color, and centering is by far the most important. Fuzzy corners on a vintage card is no bother for me.
Doby a 7 in the real world. Forget it about tobacco cards. They don't give anything above a 4, no matter the condition. It really is frustrating. Grading by ALL grading companies has nothing to do with reality. I just picked up a PSA 2 1950 Bowman Snider, centered and with no creases or paper loss.
I love the 50 Snider card.
@@MidLifeCards I just found out about it after 42 years of collecting. Its one the best.
If I was collecting for a PC I probably would buy lower grade cards..Not for investment or to put in sets..The only cards I feel that sell in any grade.....omitting the holy grail legends....Ruth, Gehrig, DiMaggio, T206 etc...are Mantle, Aaron, Clemente, Mays, Jackie Robinson, Ted Williams, Koufax.. Not talking prices because most cards would sell if the price is low enough..Just my opinion...Don't buy cards anymore except to finish sets BUT would love to own a 1953 Topps Mantle, Robinson, Paige and a 1958 Maris....
I'd love to have those 4 cards as well. Some of the all time best.
Generally speaking, the nicest card in any grade is nicer than the same card in the next lowest grade. Meaning that the nicest PAS 10 will always be nicer than the nicest PSA 9 and the nicest PSA 9 will always be nicer than the nicest PSA 8 and so on. There is a difference between the grade of a card and the overall eye appeal. That is why there are PSA 5's that "LOOK" better than PSA 7s. That does not mean the PSA 5 is better preserved than the PSA 7. Sometimes eye appeal is evenly rounded corners on a 33 Goudey, or a 75 Topps card free of "fish-eyes". Most often, eye appeal simply comes down to centering...that is it. If anything should be fixed with the grading system, centering must be weighted in the total grade. That is a way to increase the grades of cards that are undegraded according to eyeballs of collectors.
Fair points for sure.
A 2 isn't always better than a 1, in my opinion. I have pinhole cards, or cards with slight marking on them that received a one, but wouldn't have received a 4-6 otherwise. To my eyeball, they look WAY better than most 2's
That's fair. I can see why some people would much prefer a pinhole card over a beat up card.
Moral of the story. Buy the card not the grade. Took me years to understand that.
I agree. Completely.
I'm a collector rather than a seller. Centering is everything to me, so I'd rather have a lower grade creased centered card than a higher grade card not centered. Also, I love pre war stuff and to me there is no such thing as a "common" in that era. As long as it is centered, I could care less on the grade.
I've evolved to where you're at. Corners used to mean more to me. But now....it's all about centering.
I am ok with authentic aswell
It's a great value way to get some awesome cards with great eye appeal.
older baseball cards with low grades I will buy with nice eye appeal
Same here. Totally agree.
2 or 3 is the best deal
For most, a 3-4 is fine. However, for your favorite players or something you want to hold and sell a long time in the future, break the bank on an 8
I definitely understand wanting to step it up on a key card.
If you wanted graded cards then I would target recently graded vintage 4s. I believe grading standards for vintage cards has gotten harder. So, in my opinion, a recently graded vintage 4 will probably get you a better looking card than a vintage 4 from 10 or 20 years ago. I know that standards shouldn’t change but they have and the criteria is getting harder for vintage cards to grade high.
I 100% agree.
I have graded so many cards thinking they are going to be 6 maybe 7 and they come back a 4. It seems like the difference is almost non-existent sometimes.
I completely agree. It's rough. Crazy stuff at times.
I dunno about graded cards cuz its subject to one person opinion on what the card grade is. Just cuz one person at psa says the card is a 5 doesn't mean it's a 5. For all we know, the card could be a 4 or a 6. And it shouldn't matter who grades the card, the grade the card gets shouldn't change if it's in the same condition if u send it to psa or sgc or whoever. Just cuz one grading company has different ways to determine a grade that grade should always be the same. For example: 2+2 is always gonna equal 4. No matter who is doing the math 2+2=4. It doesn't change. Same way with grading cards. Unless for some reason the card condition changed like there's a new crease or a ding corner when there wasn't one before then and only then should the grade be different. People pay so much money when buying graded cards when that might not be the true grade of that card. If u sent that card to 5 different grading company and it came back the same grade then I can say that card is a 5.
How can you tell a fake auto from a real auto on a raw card? If you did see the the player sign it in front of you!
Hard to disagree with that. My Dad has a lot of autos, but all of them are ones that were signed in front of him.
To me the variance between a 5 and an 8 in many cases is very small, whereas, the variance between a 1 and a 4 can be very large. For that reason, for the collector a 5 is a great deal but for an investor it is not.
VERY good strategy.
This guy is nuts. I want all 10's, I want to sell my kid's futures for a PSA 10, ruin my retirement and end up on the street for a PSA 10.....I'll be cold, hungry, lonely....but Ill have my 10. NOT, I love 4,5 and 6's
LOL. "Sell my kid's futures for a psa 10"... LOL. Good stuff.