I guess what would be helpful is examples of what a comic should look and feel like with the proper humidity treatment, not enough treatment and too much treatment so we can learn what it should be like when done properly. Thanks for the videos and information. Love watching.
Thank you so much for this video! The biggest problem I still have with pressing is sunken staples. I will get a nebulizer and start nailing down some standards that will work for me. My wife's yoga block is in danger now as well :) I used your amazon link to buy the nebulizer.
Oh, I should add w sunken staples consider reducing the inner buffer unless you have M staples. I have a "why so many staples" video that might help: ruclips.net/video/R7if2vzkAiQ/видео.html
@@TopComicsPressing I have reduced my inner buffer, I've even tried spacer strips next to the spine during pressing with minimum pressure, but I believe I had my books inner pages too moist. Your insight into that was most helpful.
Joe, thanks for your great videos! I've been trying this out for a while and it's hard to imagine that such a short time (~4-6 min) in this kind of humidity tank could result in similar humidification compared to a more "traditional" humidity tank with a cup of water for 24 (or even 12) hours. It's hard to judge how much humidity has been absorbed in the book just by looking at it. Do you have any guess how those two cases would differ based on your experience?
Yeah so this method does mostly the cover only. Anything in interiors I iron. It’s puts out more humidity that you think. But there is no great way to measure it and it’s both location and season dependent. So you have to adjust quite a bit. The adjusting is why a lot of people don’t like this method. Bud, I have had great success with this approach. So I won’t be going back to a tank.
Great video....I purchased the diffuser you recommended on Amazon and am looking forward to starting to experiment with humidification. I do have one question though, what kind of water do you use in the diffuser? I assumed it was distilled water since that is what kaptainmyke recommends on his site. However i read in the diffuser instructions that "it is important to NOT use steam distilled water, as this water had the minerals removed from the water that affect the operation of the diffuser". Please advise. Thanks!
QUESTION: Since your humidifier is so much closer on one side of the comic than the other side, doesnt the book get uneven amounts of humidity saturation, giving uneven results of some sorts?? The humidifier was practically touching on side edge exclusively it looked like...??
Kind of off topic but also on par with what you do as well. I see alot of videos talking about the process they do with customers books and how much of a grade bump they get them. But none of them mention what happens when they damage a customers book which i know sadly is a true reality of doing any kind of work on someone's book. I mean even CGC has ruined peoples books before just by grading them. So my question, lets say you received an Avengers #1 and you took your photos like you always do. But during the CPR process you caused some small or even significant damage that was unintentional to the customers book. How do you resolve this?? do you have insurance for your business that protects you, or have them sign a form before you receive their books with the understand that there is a possibility that their book could be damaged and your aren't libel for any they may happen while your cleaning?
Thanks for the question. My exact reply depends on the situation. I do tell people nothing is for sure and you can always end up with a lower grade (damaged) book. That can happen because of something I did, something CGC did, something the mail carrier did, or because CGC just decided to change the grade. I have seen people send prior blue label books and have them returned as purple/green due to things missed the first time (coupon cuts not noted or color touch not detected or a trim now noted that was not there). I tell people do not gamble what you cannot afford to loose. As to my approach, I ask clients to acknowledge and consent to a list of risks on my submission sheet. Your asking someone to apply heat, friction, pressure, moisture, and even cleaning agents to decades old paper with an unknown past. So those risks are inherent. I try do warn people about them in advance so they understand that if you press a book form the 50s with tanning and a just slightly attached staple, it could pop. In those cases, I do not compensate for damages. They are inherent risks. If I go on and screw up a book that is in great shape - like put a 6" tear in a cover dry cleaning a wolverine 1 from the 80s, I have offered compensation or to purchase the book at the declared value. My submission sheet has a space for this. The approach depends on the situation and damages. Sometimes books that get damaged as part of stain removal and whitening can still get a grade bump. I do not compensate if the grade goes up even if the bump less than what someone wants. And no, there is no insurance for this that I am aware. No major insurance provider would write a policy for it and the deductible would be higher than most books. I would also be a massive fraud problem with how up and down comic prices are. I suspect CGC is "self insured" and CGC has a very long form you sign with a check box. So you ask a very complicated question. I hope this helps. Nothing is for sure and there are risk to doing this. On average, things work out quite well.
@@TopComicsPressing I really appreciate your answer to my question and for being very thorough with your response. Like I mentioned it’s not something people ever talk about and really helps with having a grasp at how people handle situations such as this when handling other peoples books on a regular basis. And I agree it is just part of the risk when getting anything as old as comics worked on. I just know there are those that think everything is a sure thing without thinking of the risk that are involved when a book from the 60’s and such is being worked on with heat and other such methods. But glad that you do try to explain this to them and having them sign a form that also gives them an understanding that damage to a book can happen is a good way to cover yourself so they can’t say they didn’t know. Also major plus that if a newer book is damaged from something that you did by mistake on your part, that your try to compensate for them to make things right. Again appreciate the quick response and look forward to part 2 of this video soon. Have a great weekend.
Room temp varies from 68 to 78 depending on season. Times range from 6 min to 1 min depending on era relative humidity of room and season of year. Newer books in warmer more humid climate are shorter. Older dryer books are longest in winter
I guess what would be helpful is examples of what a comic should look and feel like with the proper humidity treatment, not enough treatment and too much treatment so we can learn what it should be like when done properly. Thanks for the videos and information. Love watching.
Will post an example of asm300 on Monday
Another excellent video! Keep them coming.
Will do - wait for part 2’monday
Thank you so much for this video! The biggest problem I still have with pressing is sunken staples. I will get a nebulizer and start nailing down some standards that will work for me. My wife's yoga block is in danger now as well :) I used your amazon link to buy the nebulizer.
Lmk how it goes
Oh, I should add w sunken staples consider reducing the inner buffer unless you have M staples. I have a "why so many staples" video that might help: ruclips.net/video/R7if2vzkAiQ/видео.html
@@TopComicsPressing I have reduced my inner buffer, I've even tried spacer strips next to the spine during pressing with minimum pressure, but I believe I had my books inner pages too moist. Your insight into that was most helpful.
Great info, thanks for sharing!
Joe, thanks for your great videos! I've been trying this out for a while and it's hard to imagine that such a short time (~4-6 min) in this kind of humidity tank could result in similar humidification compared to a more "traditional" humidity tank with a cup of water for 24 (or even 12) hours. It's hard to judge how much humidity has been absorbed in the book just by looking at it. Do you have any guess how those two cases would differ based on your experience?
Yeah so this method does mostly the cover only. Anything in interiors I iron. It’s puts out more humidity that you think. But there is no great way to measure it and it’s both location and season dependent. So you have to adjust quite a bit. The adjusting is why a lot of people don’t like this method. Bud, I have had great success with this approach. So I won’t be going back to a tank.
Great video....I purchased the diffuser you recommended on Amazon and am looking forward to starting to experiment with humidification. I do have one question though, what kind of water do you use in the diffuser? I assumed it was distilled water since that is what kaptainmyke recommends on his site. However i read in the diffuser instructions that "it is important to NOT use steam distilled water, as this water had the minerals removed from the water that affect the operation of the diffuser". Please advise. Thanks!
I use distilled. Has not ruined the diffuser.
Thanks for the quick response!!! @@TopComicsPressing
QUESTION: Since your humidifier is so much closer on one side of the comic than the other side, doesnt the book get uneven amounts of humidity saturation, giving uneven results of some sorts?? The humidifier was practically touching on side edge exclusively it looked like...??
This arc is fairly uniform in person in this model
Kind of off topic but also on par with what you do as well. I see alot of videos talking about the process they do with customers books and how much of a grade bump they get them. But none of them mention what happens when they damage a customers book which i know sadly is a true reality of doing any kind of work on someone's book. I mean even CGC has ruined peoples books before just by grading them.
So my question, lets say you received an Avengers #1 and you took your photos like you always do. But during the CPR process you caused some small or even significant damage that was unintentional to the customers book. How do you resolve this?? do you have insurance for your business that protects you, or have them sign a form before you receive their books with the understand that there is a possibility that their book could be damaged and your aren't libel for any they may happen while your cleaning?
Thanks for the question. My exact reply depends on the situation. I do tell people nothing is for sure and you can always end up with a lower grade (damaged) book. That can happen because of something I did, something CGC did, something the mail carrier did, or because CGC just decided to change the grade. I have seen people send prior blue label books and have them returned as purple/green due to things missed the first time (coupon cuts not noted or color touch not detected or a trim now noted that was not there). I tell people do not gamble what you cannot afford to loose.
As to my approach, I ask clients to acknowledge and consent to a list of risks on my submission sheet. Your asking someone to apply heat, friction, pressure, moisture, and even cleaning agents to decades old paper with an unknown past. So those risks are inherent. I try do warn people about them in advance so they understand that if you press a book form the 50s with tanning and a just slightly attached staple, it could pop. In those cases, I do not compensate for damages. They are inherent risks.
If I go on and screw up a book that is in great shape - like put a 6" tear in a cover dry cleaning a wolverine 1 from the 80s, I have offered compensation or to purchase the book at the declared value. My submission sheet has a space for this. The approach depends on the situation and damages. Sometimes books that get damaged as part of stain removal and whitening can still get a grade bump. I do not compensate if the grade goes up even if the bump less than what someone wants.
And no, there is no insurance for this that I am aware. No major insurance provider would write a policy for it and the deductible would be higher than most books. I would also be a massive fraud problem with how up and down comic prices are. I suspect CGC is "self insured" and CGC has a very long form you sign with a check box.
So you ask a very complicated question. I hope this helps. Nothing is for sure and there are risk to doing this. On average, things work out quite well.
@@TopComicsPressing I really appreciate your answer to my question and for being very thorough with your response. Like I mentioned it’s not something people ever talk about and really helps with having a grasp at how people handle situations such as this when handling other peoples books on a regular basis.
And I agree it is just part of the risk when getting anything as old as comics worked on. I just know there are those that think everything is a sure thing without thinking of the risk that are involved when a book from the 60’s and such is being worked on with heat and other such methods. But glad that you do try to explain this to them and having them sign a form that also gives them an understanding that damage to a book can happen is a good way to cover yourself so they can’t say they didn’t know.
Also major plus that if a newer book is damaged from something that you did by mistake on your part, that your try to compensate for them to make things right.
Again appreciate the quick response and look forward to part 2 of this video soon. Have a great weekend.
82 is freaking hot! Turn on the AC! Lol
It’s an issue w the area in the house Saddly… not an easy fix due to construction- house ac is set way under that
I like your videos but do you have to say "bumpski" every time? It's pretty cringy
I love every Bumpski. But … I am a topczew-ski by name. 🤷♂️ so I vlank_ski everything
Bumpskiiiiii! Dont listen to this tool lol say what you wanna say
Bumpski
Can we get a rough estimate of your room temp and times on the different eras of books?
Room temp varies from 68 to 78 depending on season. Times range from 6 min to 1 min depending on era relative humidity of room and season of year. Newer books in warmer more humid climate are shorter. Older dryer books are longest in winter