Solid machine, can see the attachment you have for it, it dose what you ask no problem. . . simple with reliability. . . poor me a drink . . . good luck U earned it .
I live in Grand Rapids and sell industrial woodworking equipment. The cool part about your adding Carter products to your saw is that those are Grand Rapids based. Oliver's competition on band saw, Tannewitz, is still in business (Jenison, MI a suburb of Grand Rapids). They mostly import, but they do build some band saws still.
Ed worked with his father Wenzel and made furniture using longhorn bull horns. I think a couple of their pieces are in museums. Vintagetexaspaintings has some pictures and more detail.
I didn't know that your Oliver band saw was made in Grand Rapids Michigan. I live in Grand Rapids Michigan born and raised spent almost a decade in North Texas then moved back. It's a great place to raise a family and there's so many outdoor recreation hobbies or sports in and around Grand Rapids.
This bandsaw always make me envious, when you show it off. I remember drooling over your build videos of it... Some day, I hope to have a shop tall enough to accommodate something like this! I always have "one eye open" seeking for a sweet deal on one I can rebuild. I did see one a number of years ago - about 3 hours from my place - for $350 (CAD, and not an Oliver) and I still regret not jumping on it. It was an absolute rust bucket, but I'm sure with enough work, it would have run... 🙂
Stratoplane is 15 minutes from my shop. They were able to get me the information on my old Oliver. Amazing that paper records survived. My Oliver 110 is from 1925 and they had still had the paper ledger
To quote Nick Offerman when asked about what to look for in old tools, "Uh, more cast iron. Actually, the most cast iron possible." :D And yes, Andy, you are doing great. We do not need nicely edited footage, just raw shop activity and building cool stuff.
To resolve the issue with the tilt mechanism hitting the locking arm try the following. Remove the straight bar from the wheel. Rotate the wheel so that the point at which the straight bar joins the wheel is at 5 o'clock instead of 8 o'clock. Reconnect the straight bar. Now the tilting mechanism should do exactly the same job and operate the table tilt, but won't foul the locking mechanism. The only difference is the wheel will turn anti clockwise instead of clock wise to raise the table. Hope that makes sense.
Great saw. I noticed the rod for the table tilt is down at the 8 o'clock position and probably needs to be at the 4 o'clock position. This should prevent the rod from contacting the table lock. It'll reverse the wheel rotation to tilt the table.
I am almost positive that those doors came about LONG after that saw was made. There were no safety guards back in those days. "See the blade? It will cut you. Don't touch it". Safety briefing over.
5:04 The answer to that dilemma is simple, someone broke the original arm and replaced it with a much longer one. The gear's mounting (for the arm) is supposed to sit at 5~4 o'clock on the dial and the arm, vertical. If you go online and look for 'oliver 35 bandsaw', there's plenty of documentation showing the OG arm (tho you will have to squint). If the one you have is cast iron, i'd take it out, rotate the gear, simulate the max depression-elevation of the table and mark them on the arm, that should give you where the pivot hole should be, drill it, cut it, and you're set for normal operations. :)
Couldn’t the arm being simply mounted the wrong way rather than too long? Is it possible to mount it so that it stays on the right side of the wheel axis (now it stays on the left)?
@@tommasoferroglio6533 You can't mount it the other way round because the it would raise the table, i'm also certain that Andy would've figured it would by now had it been the right length. That said, if you look up images (which appear as catalogs) of these, you can see the obvious difference. I can't link, because RUclips executes such comments with extreme prejudice, i've had them vanish in a manner of seconds.
Andy, Regarding the inconvenience of tilting the table to ‘45. I believe that the solution is to position the link thats conecting the table and driven gear to other side of the gear towards the pulley.
Another possibility is that the link itself, which currently appears to be a piece of bar stock, could have been a casting which curved around the locking pin. A brittle casting with a lot of force could have cracked after an impact to the table, and replaced with the bar stock any time in the last 97 years...
What a band saw! Cool to know the history of it, at least as much as you have found. I like garage sales a estate sales for tools. I can sometimes meet the person who owned them and learn who they are, what they do/did, etc... Or meet a family member... I bought an aluminum framing square from an old timer who claimed he framed many houses with it. I checked it for square after purchasing. Not square. Lol! Oops! Thanks for this video! I love seeing this lovely machine in action!
I own a 1929 Oliver 117A (with its birth certificate) and it is incredible running on a Yaskawa VFD (variable frequency drive), it would cost a fortune to reproduce these saws today. Nice bandsaw Andy ,hang on to her!👍😀by the way, you don’t need to lock the table because of the worm gear configuration.
To square the fence to the blade, I thought you could shim either the front or rear of the platform of the fence with painters tape to shim it to square
Great video, I have a 1907 L Power & Co. 36 in. It’s great to see you using it. It helps me compare what it sounds like (jet engine) and how slow a feed rate you do on that large Resaw. I use a 1.5 in Lennox ceramic Resaw blade. It is a beast but makes about a 3/16 kerf.
About the arm that tilt the table and bumps into the locking mechanism: could it be that the arm should be located on the other side? Right now, when the table is horizontal, the arm attachmment on the cog wheel is at about full left. If you detach the arm, rotate the cog wheel until the arm attachment is at full down, you could reattach the arm and adjust the table to horizontal and turning the cog wheel CCW going to 45 degree.
When tilting the table, could it be that the bar coming from the wheel and pushing table has to be mounted on the other side of the wheel. In that manner, that you have to turn the wheel the other way around for the tilting. Hard to explain... Just unscrew the bar on the wheel only turn the mounting point from a 7 o'clock Position to an 5 o'clock Position and reattach it.
@4:50 you want to kick it up to 45 and it hits the locking mechanism, maybe if you turn around the gear with the pistol 180 degrees, it will not hit the mechanism. Because the piston is moved over to the other side (right side) I also love the fact you are posting raw footage, I like seeing uncut work be done, it gives me a better impression how a shop is run!
Looks to me like possibly the trunnions for the table are mounted backwards. This would move the lock handle to the "front side" of the saw, and would make more sense for usability and allow the positioning rod to move freely.
I have a similar saw. My table has a fixed trundrun. With the way yours moves, I would think it could be considered a ship's saw. I did not rebuild mine, I just make it work well. I put in carter guides and thrust bearing also.
I wonder if that wheel issue is that it's backwards and the pivot arm should be on the right side more near 4 o'clock. Beautiful machine!! I love watching this stuff even though I have no chance or room to ever own stuff like this.
I clicked on your video because I have a model 29 Oliver 36''bandsaw .it is older than yours. Your saw has a lower arrangement that may have been a motor my saw had a babet bearing shaft and a pully. I replaced the babet with two flange sealed ball bearings. My saw runs perfectly also ,it is the only power tool I have that I have to climb on to maintain. The casting that allows the table to tilt is called a trunion and the one on my saw was broken when I bought it, they are not really strong so be careful not to drop a big heavy timber on the table. Machining a replacement trunion is not easy. If I have to sell power tools the Oliver will be the last to go it is irreplaceable.
beautiful piece of machinery, the band saw. Somebody some place will have an operators manual for it, but not sure you will need it. I am wondering if the table has been reversed at some time in history ? I have 2 smaller band saws , both made in either Korea or Japan, and have broken them down to being all apart to repair the flaws that I could see, On both of these machines the carriage for the table is reversible, which allows the table to be reversed so the table will tilt the opposite way. Perhaps that was done some time in the past, for a particular manufacturing run and then left. Worth looking at without doing the correction . good luck and thanks for the tour. .
I'm pretty sure the bar that pushes the table up is mounted in the wrong position. If the bar is inclined in the opposite direction it won't hit as the angle increases to 45 degrees. Remove the large geared wheel rotate 180 degrees and Bobs your Uncle! I have a similar machine made by the Silver Mfg Co made in 1922.
Another fine video Andy. Thanks. I love old machines and their history. I have a few old hand tools that were my grandfather's and my father's. Quick thought, is it possible that the table tilt lock handle originally sent on the other side so it wouldn't interfere with the tilt arm?
Just curious... Is it possible that the locking handle below the table is on the wrong side? Can you rotate that entire part 180 degrees so that the handle is on the opposite side and will not interfere with that bar that raises the table to 45 degrees? Just a thought, but of course you can see all of the layout better than I can from a video. Really love the old machinery and you did a great job with the rehab of that beast.
I realize I'm way late, but I just now ran across this. You probably have already resolved it by now, but is the deflection of the fence from the fence it's self or is it from how it's clamped to the table? It looks like you could cut a couple of slots in the base of the fence right up near the vertical and add clamps there so it doesn't lift up from the table when you push on the top.
My SFPM is at 5000. I have a 7.5hp motor running at 1725 RPMs with a 5" motor pulley. The drive pulley is 16" and the bandsaw wheels are 36". Here's the online calculator I use to determine SFPM www.vintagemachinery.org/math/sfpm.aspx. The blade I run is a Woodmaster Carbide Tip 1" with 1.3 TPI. The SFPM is a bit on the high side but it resews like a dream as you can tell. Hope this helps!
@@AndyRawls Thanks so much. Yes Northfield got back me as well. They said the more blade in the cut the slower the blade speed needs to be currently my saw is direct drive and its running 8500 SFM. With a 2-3 pitch blade o get powder and smoke. Looks like a VFD will need to be ordered. Thanks again.
@@AndyRawls Tri-Master not 'trim' master, it's a carbide tipped skip-tooth nonferrous blade that kicks ass on dry hardwood resawing. If you use HSS blades contact Ellis Blade out of Wisconsin, they're fair on price and fair on quality. I run 4-tooth hook on my small saw, using a 1/4" flex back it's not a problem to cut a 1" circle in 6" thick stock.
You should try to contact Keith Rucker over at Vintage Machinery (ruclips.net/user/KeithRuckerVintageMachineryorg). He seems to be able to find out just about anything about old tools.
That bandsaw is what dreams are made of 🤩
Solid machine, can see the attachment you have for it, it dose what you ask no problem. . . simple with reliability. . . poor me a drink . . . good luck U earned it .
Thank you sir!
I live in Grand Rapids and sell industrial woodworking equipment. The cool part about your adding Carter products to your saw is that those are Grand Rapids based. Oliver's competition on band saw, Tannewitz, is still in business (Jenison, MI a suburb of Grand Rapids). They mostly import, but they do build some band saws still.
Why is re-sawing wood so satisfying? It feels like your creating wood. I love that process.
The restoration series on this saw is how I found your channel. Watched every video since.
Thank you!
Ed worked with his father Wenzel and made furniture using longhorn bull horns. I think a couple of their pieces are in museums. Vintagetexaspaintings has some pictures and more detail.
I didn't know that your Oliver band saw was made in Grand Rapids Michigan. I live in Grand Rapids Michigan born and raised spent almost a decade in North Texas then moved back. It's a great place to raise a family and there's so many outdoor recreation hobbies or sports in and around Grand Rapids.
This bandsaw always make me envious, when you show it off. I remember drooling over your build videos of it... Some day, I hope to have a shop tall enough to accommodate something like this! I always have "one eye open" seeking for a sweet deal on one I can rebuild. I did see one a number of years ago - about 3 hours from my place - for $350 (CAD, and not an Oliver) and I still regret not jumping on it. It was an absolute rust bucket, but I'm sure with enough work, it would have run... 🙂
Fabulous! I just love these old 30"+ band saws. I gotta get me one of these. Beautiful engineering. Great to see it working
Stratoplane is 15 minutes from my shop. They were able to get me the information on my old Oliver. Amazing that paper records survived. My Oliver 110 is from 1925 and they had still had the paper ledger
That's awesome!
To quote Nick Offerman when asked about what to look for in old tools, "Uh, more cast iron. Actually, the most cast iron possible." :D
And yes, Andy, you are doing great. We do not need nicely edited footage, just raw shop activity and building cool stuff.
I love old tools. The build quality tends to be much better than newer stuff. Awesome bandsaw.
To resolve the issue with the tilt mechanism hitting the locking arm try the following.
Remove the straight bar from the wheel. Rotate the wheel so that the point at which the straight bar joins the wheel is at 5 o'clock instead of 8 o'clock.
Reconnect the straight bar.
Now the tilting mechanism should do exactly the same job and operate the table tilt, but won't foul the locking mechanism. The only difference is the wheel will turn anti clockwise instead of clock wise to raise the table.
Hope that makes sense.
this! I was about to write the same but you beat me to it. Nice work.
Thanks Dave!
That makes perfect sense. I can see how--if I acquired this saw unassembled--I would make that mistake in the reassembly process.
Great saw. I noticed the rod for the table tilt is down at the 8 o'clock position and probably needs to be at the 4 o'clock position. This should prevent the rod from contacting the table lock. It'll reverse the wheel rotation to tilt the table.
I was going to suggest the same thing but you already did and said it so well.
Bill
Suggested the same with a different explanation, I'll back this comment for sure!
I really like this style of video. Love to learn more about the Oliver bandsaw
Love the bandsaw. And that's the best veneer table I have seen. It's also the only one, but still the best.
I am almost positive that those doors came about LONG after that saw was made. There were no safety guards back in those days. "See the blade? It will cut you. Don't touch it". Safety briefing over.
Haha! I think you're right. We always joke in the shop about how there was no thoughtful safety features on the saw.
5:04 The answer to that dilemma is simple, someone broke the original arm and replaced it with a much longer one. The gear's mounting (for the arm) is supposed to sit at 5~4 o'clock on the dial and the arm, vertical.
If you go online and look for 'oliver 35 bandsaw', there's plenty of documentation showing the OG arm (tho you will have to squint).
If the one you have is cast iron, i'd take it out, rotate the gear, simulate the max depression-elevation of the table and mark them on the arm, that should give you where the pivot hole should be, drill it, cut it, and you're set for normal operations. :)
Couldn’t the arm being simply mounted the wrong way rather than too long? Is it possible to mount it so that it stays on the right side of the wheel axis (now it stays on the left)?
@@tommasoferroglio6533 You can't mount it the other way round because the it would raise the table, i'm also certain that Andy would've figured it would by now had it been the right length.
That said, if you look up images (which appear as catalogs) of these, you can see the obvious difference. I can't link, because RUclips executes such comments with extreme prejudice, i've had them vanish in a manner of seconds.
Andy I love your videos
Andy,
Regarding the inconvenience of tilting the table to ‘45. I believe that the solution is to position the link thats conecting the table and driven gear to other side of the gear towards the pulley.
Another possibility is that the link itself, which currently appears to be a piece of bar stock, could have been a casting which curved around the locking pin. A brittle casting with a lot of force could have cracked after an impact to the table, and replaced with the bar stock any time in the last 97 years...
I have a model 17 with a Reeves variable speed drive on it and its a beast.
Really beautiful machine indeed, Andy! 😃
Fantastic work there! You guys are killing it!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Beautiful bandsaw!
Would love to come by an old rigid bandsaw lite yours. From the time when they made machines indestructible.
What a band saw! Cool to know the history of it, at least as much as you have found. I like garage sales a estate sales for tools. I can sometimes meet the person who owned them and learn who they are, what they do/did, etc... Or meet a family member...
I bought an aluminum framing square from an old timer who claimed he framed many houses with it. I checked it for square after purchasing. Not square. Lol! Oops!
Thanks for this video! I love seeing this lovely machine in action!
Yeah, no doubt about it, Andy. You've got one awesome bandsaw, as evident fromthe quality of the resawing it did.
I own a 1929 Oliver 117A (with its birth certificate) and it is incredible running on a Yaskawa VFD (variable frequency drive), it would cost a fortune to reproduce these saws today. Nice bandsaw Andy ,hang on to her!👍😀by the way, you don’t need to lock the table because of the worm gear configuration.
I wonder if the time for you to get that Frank Strazza workbench is finally getting closer... 😉
Hope so.
That thought enters my mind daily!
Great video.
To square the fence to the blade, I thought you could shim either the front or rear of the platform of the fence with painters tape to shim it to square
Great video, I have a 1907 L Power & Co. 36 in. It’s great to see you using it. It helps me compare what it sounds like (jet engine) and how slow a feed rate you do on that large Resaw. I use a 1.5 in Lennox ceramic Resaw blade. It is a beast but makes about a 3/16 kerf.
That is a big kerf. I'm running a Lennox Woodmaster CT and its worked great.
I wonder If the table adjuster gear isn't actually 180°out so that the arm rides on the opposite side away from the locking screw.
About the arm that tilt the table and bumps into the locking mechanism: could it be that the arm should be located on the other side? Right now, when the table is horizontal, the arm attachmment on the cog wheel is at about full left. If you detach the arm, rotate the cog wheel until the arm attachment is at full down, you could reattach the arm and adjust the table to horizontal and turning the cog wheel CCW going to 45 degree.
When tilting the table, could it be that the bar coming from the wheel and pushing table has to be mounted on the other side of the wheel. In that manner, that you have to turn the wheel the other way around for the tilting.
Hard to explain... Just unscrew the bar on the wheel only turn the mounting point from a 7 o'clock Position to an 5 o'clock Position and reattach it.
@4:50 you want to kick it up to 45 and it hits the locking mechanism, maybe if you turn around the gear with the pistol 180 degrees, it will not hit the mechanism. Because the piston is moved over to the other side (right side)
I also love the fact you are posting raw footage, I like seeing uncut work be done, it gives me a better impression how a shop is run!
The machine is a beauty, thanks for keeping it in service…
Looks to me like possibly the trunnions for the table are mounted backwards. This would move the lock handle to the "front side" of the saw, and would make more sense for usability and allow the positioning rod to move freely.
I have a similar saw. My table has a fixed trundrun. With the way yours moves, I would think it could be considered a ship's saw. I did not rebuild mine, I just make it work well. I put in carter guides and thrust bearing also.
I wonder if that wheel issue is that it's backwards and the pivot arm should be on the right side more near 4 o'clock. Beautiful machine!! I love watching this stuff even though I have no chance or room to ever own stuff like this.
I clicked on your video because I have a model 29 Oliver 36''bandsaw .it is older than yours. Your saw has a lower arrangement that may have been a motor my saw had a babet bearing shaft and a pully. I replaced the babet with two flange sealed ball bearings. My saw runs perfectly also ,it is the only power tool I have that I have to climb on to maintain. The casting that allows the table to tilt is called a trunion and the one on my saw was broken when I bought it, they are not really strong so be careful not to drop a big heavy timber on the table. Machining a replacement trunion is not easy. If I have to sell power tools the Oliver will be the last to go it is irreplaceable.
It all looks really good, Andy. Check Glen Carter's comment below and I think it will save you some heartache in the future.
Bill
beautiful piece of machinery, the band saw. Somebody some place will have an operators manual for it, but not sure you will need it. I am wondering if the table has been reversed at some time in history ? I have 2 smaller band saws , both made in either Korea or Japan, and have broken them down to being all apart to repair the flaws that I could see, On both of these machines the carriage for the table is reversible, which allows the table to be reversed so the table will tilt the opposite way. Perhaps that was done some time in the past, for a particular manufacturing run and then left. Worth looking at without doing the correction . good luck and thanks for the tour.
.
I'm pretty sure the bar that pushes the table up is mounted in the wrong position. If the bar is inclined in the opposite direction it won't hit as the angle increases to 45 degrees. Remove the large geared wheel rotate 180 degrees and Bobs your Uncle! I have a similar machine made by the Silver Mfg Co made in 1922.
Thanks!
Can you turn the locking trunion around putting the lock on the other side? Cool old machine tho
Hey Andy, I was thinking the problem your having hitting 45° on your table is that your worm wheel is 180° out.
That seems to be the common talk and it appears to be right. It’s as simple as that!
Another fine video Andy. Thanks. I love old machines and their history. I have a few old hand tools that were my grandfather's and my father's.
Quick thought, is it possible that the table tilt lock handle originally sent on the other side so it wouldn't interfere with the tilt arm?
Нахожусь в лагере ( ручного инструмента) но такая пила СУППЕР❤
Just curious... Is it possible that the locking handle below the table is on the wrong side? Can you rotate that entire part 180 degrees so that the handle is on the opposite side and will not interfere with that bar that raises the table to 45 degrees? Just a thought, but of course you can see all of the layout better than I can from a video. Really love the old machinery and you did a great job with the rehab of that beast.
i was thinking.. maybe the cradel for the tabel is mounted 180 degres off.soo the locking grip is on the other side?? 🤔
I realize I'm way late, but I just now ran across this. You probably have already resolved it by now, but is the deflection of the fence from the fence it's self or is it from how it's clamped to the table? It looks like you could cut a couple of slots in the base of the fence right up near the vertical and add clamps there so it doesn't lift up from the table when you push on the top.
it seemed like ginger guy was putting pressure on the blade while you were pushing it forward?
maybe that strut on the geared wheel should go on opposite side ?
That's the same saw Keith Rucker from "Vintage Machinery" have?
I don't think so.
nice tool the blade dont seem encasse + the motor belt would need a gage for safety
That beauty deserves period correct Wright guides, which are far superior to the Carters
Is there a sticker of that shirt design?
4:42 Those are called trunnions, or tilt trunnions
Off topic but what are your buddies headphones?
What blade and tooth count are your using? and what is blade speed? I'm trying to troubleshoot my Northfield so any info is appreciated .Thanks
My SFPM is at 5000. I have a 7.5hp motor running at 1725 RPMs with a 5" motor pulley. The drive pulley is 16" and the bandsaw wheels are 36". Here's the online calculator I use to determine SFPM www.vintagemachinery.org/math/sfpm.aspx. The blade I run is a Woodmaster Carbide Tip 1" with 1.3 TPI. The SFPM is a bit on the high side but it resews like a dream as you can tell. Hope this helps!
@@AndyRawls Thanks so much. Yes Northfield got back me as well. They said the more blade in the cut the slower the blade speed needs to be currently my saw is direct drive and its running 8500 SFM. With a 2-3 pitch blade o get powder and smoke. Looks like a VFD will need to be ordered. Thanks again.
Are the blades for your saw easy to get
Yes I order them from www.bandsawbladesdirect.com. They're custom made to 18'6"!
Try a Lennox Tri-Master blade for resawing
I'm using the Lennox Woodmaster CT and its beed great. I'll look into the Trim-Master, Thanks.
@@AndyRawls Tri-Master not 'trim' master, it's a carbide tipped skip-tooth nonferrous blade that kicks ass on dry hardwood resawing. If you use HSS blades contact Ellis Blade out of Wisconsin, they're fair on price and fair on quality. I run 4-tooth hook on my small saw, using a 1/4" flex back it's not a problem to cut a 1" circle in 6" thick stock.
You should try to contact Keith Rucker over at Vintage Machinery (ruclips.net/user/KeithRuckerVintageMachineryorg). He seems to be able to find out just about anything about old tools.
Yes Keith is a wealth of knowledge on these vintage machines. Thanks!
Anyone else want to throw fruit through the spinning wheel? 😅
I believe this guy has one like yours, if you have questions:
ruclips.net/user/EngelsCoachShop1featured
Thanks for sharing this a man worth following!
silly...